Polycarbonate roof canopy. How to properly lay polycarbonate on a canopy - a clear instruction. Storage and care of polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is innovative construction material which has already become quite popular. In a short time on the market, he pressed the film, glass and wood that were so recently in demand. At first, polycarbonate was used only in the country for the construction of greenhouses and hotbeds due to the fact that it perfectly transmits sunlight, has a good margin of safety and is easy to install. But later landscape designers paid attention to its other advantages.

Why polycarbonate

When designing the territory of a suburban area, one of the most pressing issues is the arrangement of a comfortable recreation area, which would be located outside the house, somewhere on the lawn, as well as shelters for the car. These problems can be solved in different ways. But the main one is still the construction of the pavilion. A polycarbonate canopy is the easiest to make, besides, it is not necessary to call a master - everything can be made by hand. In addition, this design provides its owner with maximum benefits.

Material types

So far, only two types of polycarbonate are known that are used for the construction of canopies - this is a cellular and monolithic thermoplastic. The first is a panel consisting of several layers of transparent or matte plastic, which are interconnected by vertical stiffeners located along the fibers of the material. At the same time, the voids are filled with air, which gives polycarbonate excellent thermal insulation properties. Cellular sheets bend well even in the usual, so-called cold state. Therefore, a polycarbonate canopy can be made even of the most complex and bizarre shape.

Monolithic polymer has its advantages. It absorbs ultraviolet well and has rich colors, and for all its strength it has a fairly light weight. It is used not only in construction, but also in other industries, which include high-tech systems.

The advantages of this material

A polycarbonate canopy can be of any design, but each of them will have inherent clear benefits that should be mentioned. And the most important thing is the durability of the structure. Also very important is the fact that this material is easy to install and does not require any special care. It provides high transparency or opacity of the structure, depending on the need, and also performs protective functions from the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays.

The material is beautiful and, importantly, it is produced in a wide range of color scheme. And another very important aspect is the low cost. Canopies made of polycarbonate, the price of which varies depending on the size, will still be cheaper than those made of wood or metal. One sheet of material costs from 1,400 to 10,750 rubles. Such a spread in prices is due to its size and thickness.

How to choose

When deciding which polycarbonate to purchase, you need to decide on three parameters. These are thickness, color and quality. In order to do this correctly, you need to determine the purpose of the building. To select the thickness of the material, the snow and also the crate step are taken into account. A few practical tips about this will not interfere:

• four-millimeter sheets are suitable for the device as well as various advertising structures;
• from a plate of 6-8 mm, you can make a partition, a roof, a visor or a canopy to the house from polycarbonate of your chosen color;
• a 10 mm panel is usually used for construction vertical surfaces;
• slabs with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for buildings that must withstand truly huge loads, such as car parks.

As for the color, it is also very important nuance, since the coloring of the plates can be of different intensity and transparency. For example, sheets of turquoise, blue and green are suitable for a canopy over the pool. But these tones cannot be used as a visor above the sales counter, because they will distort the original color of the goods placed inside.

The quality of polycarbonate depends only on its manufacturer. Products of well-known companies are always distinguished by reliability and environmental safety, and also have a protective layer from ultraviolet radiation, which is applied to the front surface of the sheet.

Necessary tools and materials

To install a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, you need to make a calculation and purchase everything necessary for the production of these works. You will need the following materials:

• press washers and anchor bolts (the latter will be useful only when the pavilion will be installed on a solid surface);
• self-tapping screws with galvanized coating;
• a mixture of cement, sand and gravel, if necessary, mount racks for support;
• pipes for the manufacture of support pillars with a square section of 60 x 60, 80 x 80 or 100 x 100 mm;
• cellular boards with a thickness of 8 to 10 mm;
• pipes for lathing with a section of 20 x 40 mm and for runs - 40 x 60 or 60 x 60 mm;
• a supporting arch that you can make yourself, but you must remember that in such structures you need to withstand a ten-degree or greater angle of inclination of the roof.

Tools that will be needed for the production of work: a welding machine, a screwdriver, a circular with discs, electric jigsaw, level and shovel.

Calculations

Very often hosts country houses do not invite masters, but prefer to do almost everything on their own. In order to quickly and beautifully carry out work on the arrangement of the territory, you need to know how to make a polycarbonate canopy yourself.

Before work begins on the installation of such a structure, it is necessary to make its project with drawings. To do this, you need to calculate the size of the frame and the load that it will withstand, taking into account the level of precipitation and typical for your region. Based on this, they select necessary material. A simple drawing of a polycarbonate canopy is presented in this article.

Installation of the structure, the first stage

With the main thing is the marking of the site where it will be located. After that, they dig recesses 0.5-1.5 m long, in which they will be mounted frame racks. The depth of the pits depends on the height of the pavilion itself. In them I install the parts to which the frame racks will be attached, pour them with concrete. Next, the soil is removed throughout the canopy to a depth of 10-20 cm, and instead of it, the so-called pillow of sand and gravel is poured, and it is carefully rammed. Then they lay the finishing coating in the form of a lawn grate, paving slabs, or simply make a concrete screed.

A polycarbonate yard canopy is usually mounted on a frame made of material that has already been used for other outbuildings to maintain the style of the interior. The basis can be wooden, aluminum or steel blanks.

second phase

The final stage of the installation is the fixing of the sheets. First you need to prepare the panels of the desired size (see the drawing of the polycarbonate canopy). To do this, they are cut with tools. In this work, it is important that after cutting the length of the plate should be 10-15 cm longer than the perimeter of the arch. It is important to know here that after cutting the polycarbonate sheet protective film applied on its front side should not be removed.

Now you need to attach the bottom of the profile to the arch so that its step is equal to the layout of the sheets. Next, fix the panels with self-tapping screws. To do this, drill holes 2 mm smaller than the seat size of the press washer itself. Then screws are screwed, and their hats are hidden under protective caps.

After two adjacent plates are fixed, the docking profiles are closed with a lid. At the very end of the installation, the side parts of the sheets must be protected. This is done by installing end profiles, which are fixed either with self-tapping screws or glued.

Translucent canopies, playgrounds. And all this thanks to modern material - polycarbonate. How does it fit into the design of the dwellings. Private houses are equipped by the owners in the form of arches, thereby creating a picturesque extension that is in perfect harmony with the landscape design.

The polycarbonate structure can perform various functions and have different appearance. To build such a structure with your own hands, you should make a drawing. It is from this procedure that the quality of the future canopy will depend.

Varieties and scope

It will perfectly replace metal, glass and wood. Not a single suburban construction is complete without it.

On the shelves of the store you can find several types of products:

Monolithic or cast

It has a beautiful appearance, reminiscent of colorless or colored glass, but surpasses it in strength. Used in structures with heavy loads.

profiled

The shape is in the form of a wave. It has the same characteristics as the first type (monolithic). Easy to install roofing, as the size of the sheets is the same as the metal of the tiles.

Cellular

The product is very common in commercial and private construction. Its light weight and low price make it affordable. While working with it, an assistant is not required, and designs can be made of any complexity.

A polycarbonate canopy can be found in many places:

• in a canopy above the balcony.
• in a swimming pool.
• in the manga.
• in the car.
• in the gazebo and patio.
• above the porch;

Advantages and disadvantages

Advantages of polycarbonate panels:

1. Elastic and flexible material, can be used for all types of roofing.
2. Outperforms plastic and glass.
3. Not subject to sudden temperature changes.
4. Light weight.
5. Sufficient degree of transparency.
6. Not subject to mechanical stress.
7. Easy to install.

Minuses:

1. High price.
2. No resistance to abrasive influences.
3. Expanding from the heat.

Drawing

simple circuit canopy

Let's say you decide to make a carport. It can be a freestanding building or supporting structure. When developing a drawing, we take into account the class of the car. Further, 100 cm are added to its dimensions on each side - this will be the size of the site.

Now you can move on to the design of the canopy. We take into account the slope of the upper surface. The drawing is for a machine that has dimensions of 1.6 x 4.2 m. The site will have a size of 2.6 x 5 m.

The roof can have a different shape and meet some requirements of wind and snow loads. When making a drawing, we apply all the dimensions of the elements that are involved in the construction.

Let's give an example of the simplest typical canopy.

To install polycarbonate sheets with a thickness of less than 8 mm, a step of 600-700 mm is sufficient.

It will require:

• cellular polycarbonate, 8 mm thick;
• runs with a profile pipe 40x25x2 and 50x25x2 mm;
• arched truss (30x30x2 mm);
• beam (60x60x3 mm);
• support posts (60x60x3 mm);
• heels for racks (30x30x6 mm);

All communications must be completed in advance. The site can be covered with a concreted area, tiles.

The canopy above the door is available to every novice home owner or builder. To do this, draw a straight or curved sheet with a frame. Fastening will be carried out directly above the door. Dimensions 1400x1000x300 mm.

What is it needed for?

A designed and drawn up drawing will save you time in the future:

1. Firstly, drawing up a competent document, will make it possible to choose the right location and design.
2. Secondly, you can determine the amount of material, thereby saving money.
3. Thirdly, the choice of the original appearance, which will be in harmony with the landscape design.

What data should contain:

1. Basic structural elements with drawings.
2. Sketch of the entire structure.
3. Calculated data for roof snow load.
4. Estimated roof sail data.
5. Calculation of the strength of trusses and supports.
6. Design and estimate documentation. All types of materials and their cost are described in detail here.

How to create correctly:

1. Do not forget about additional dimensions, for example, for a car.
2. Bear in mind the prevailing wind when calculating.
3. Consider a direct driveway to the shed, no turns.
4. Access from all sides.
5. An accessible and simple drawing (bearing structures and a frame made of a profile pipe).
6. Minimum cost.
7. To create a harmonious project, taking into account the closely standing house and the garden plot.

Types and design features

First of all, the place of construction is determined.

The project can be done in several ways:

1. Take advantage of the internet.
2. Get service from professionals.
3. Do it yourself.
4. Buy a finished structure, with a proposed drawing.

It depends on this what the support will be:

1. Console. It is a small canopy in front of the entrance to the house. Supported by mortgages or mensols.
2. Consulting and support. Also an extension to the house, only rests on mortgages or brackets. And they are on the wall.
3. Beam-support. One side of the structure focuses on a horizontal beam in the wall, the other stands on supports.
4. Separate. When the roof is supported on the support posts.

Canopy construction technology

Structure connection scheme: 1 - Decorative cover TP-03; 2 - Profile TP-01; 3 – Seal TPU-01; 4 - Polycarbonate; 5 - Self-adhesive seal; 6 - Self-tapping screw; 7 - anti-dust tape; 8 - End profile UP; 9 - Substructure element.

1. We are preparing a place for a canopy.
2. We mark the points for the support posts. We make wells 50 cm deep, manually or with a drill.
3. We install supports and fill them with mortar. We are waiting for the complete drying of the solution for about three days. To prevent cracking of the surface, three days pour it with water.
4. Next, we carry out the execution of the upper strapping, where we use an electric welding machine.
5. We fix the transverse elements of the structure.
6. The upper part can be a horizontal, arched, gable or single slope design.
7. Welded seams are cleaned and sanded.
8. We do the primer and painting of the metal frame.
9. The next step is to mount the polycarbonate panels.

Required materials and tools:

• on supporting pillars, a profile with a square section 10 × 10, 8 × 8, 6 × 6 cm;
• for runs, we take a profile pipe with a section of 6 × 4 or 6 × 6 cm;
• for the crate - 4 × 4 cm (profile pipe);
• arched structure;
• polycarbonate is more reliable to take 10 mm, as it has excellent characteristics and an attractive appearance, it is easy to use;
• press washers and self-tapping screws;
• crushed stone, mortar (sand and cement);
• screwdriver;
• drill, knife;
• a circular saw;

Fastening the canopy racks to embedded elements

Walkthrough:

1. We make blanks from polycarbonate plates using a circular saw. Moreover, do not forget to make allowances on sheets of 10-15 cm in length. During fastening, we open the protective film in those places where the fastening will be carried out, we do not touch the rest. Since along it we lead the fastener landmark. We place the panels with the film on the outside. It is from this side that they are protected from ultraviolet radiation.
2. We place the docking profile at a distance equal to decomposed polycarbonate.
3. We fix the sheets with self-tapping screws, for which we pre-drill, we make holes, a little more (2 mm) than the size of the press washers. Next, insert the washer, then twist the screws and close them with protective caps. We also cover the edge of the sheet with a protective tape to prevent dirt from entering.
4. The process is repeatable until all panels are in place.

1. The height of the structure depends on the slope of the canopy. The greater the slope, the taller the structure.
2. If a metal frame is chosen, profiles with a square section of 6 × 6 - 10 × 10 cm are perfect here.
3. Do not forget to make a sandy "cushion" under the supports.
4. To bend the panel, use a profile that is notched and bent into the desired shape.
5. The optimal building height is considered to be 220-250 cm if it is used for a car.
6. The thickness for various forms of structures is chosen in different units. For example, with a large area and a sloping roof shape, choose a thickness of 10 mm. In arched structures, 8 mm is considered sufficient thickness. Small canopies - 6. Horizontal structures - 16 mm, so that it can withstand the load in the snowy season.
7. When using cellular polycarbonate, remember that any alterations with it are quite complicated.

Polycarbonate fully deserves the name of the Great Unknown. It is widely used to build light, durable and inexpensive shelters: a polycarbonate canopy can be seen everywhere from the center of Moscow to Taimyr, and in a polycarbonate one you can harvest vegetables and fruits all year round in the Arctic. In polycarbonate structures easy and inexpensive to combine high functionality with exquisite aesthetics(see fig.) and at the same time, most of them for home use can be made with your own hands, having only basic working skills.

At the same time, widely available sources of information on the use of polycarbonate are informative somewhere at the level of instructions on how to put together a birdhouse. Indeed, slab cellular polycarbonate has remarkable properties and is easy to work with. But this apparent simplicity is based on a very complex scientific and technological basis.

The strength, reliability and durability of polycarbonate buildings cannot be increased by simply increasing the mass of material in the structure, like stone ones. And it is also impossible to build them using averaged-generalized parameters multiplied by "all-round" safety factors. It is necessary to keep within the limits of a certain optimum, otherwise the result may be the opposite. What is this optimum, how to get into it and stay there? This article is about this. In it, we will consider the questions:

• What is slab cellular polycarbonate as a material, what is good and bad about it, what allows and what cannot.
• How to work with polycarbonate.
• How to choose slabs for construction according to their size and structure.
• How simpler and cheaper, but quite reliable, to make all sorts of designs; primarily a carport made of polycarbonate. It must be absolutely reliable, because. the cost of a car is incomparable with that of a shelter for it.
• In what cases should preference be given to custom-made awnings, and when it makes sense to take on a home-made one.

polycarbonate as is

As a substance, polycarbonate is one of the types of organic glass, a transparent polymer, in the molecules-chains of which carbon atoms with organic radicals, CO carbon radicals and benzene rings regularly alternate. It was discovered by accident in Germany in 1898 while trying to improve the newly synthesized analgesic codeine. The first researchers drew attention to its good, better than silicate glass light transmission, heat resistance and high, over 250 kJ/sq. m, impact strength. Simply put, polycarbonate beats and pricks very badly, and outside the flame it self-extinguishes. Polycarbonate is also obtained in a simple way, as a result of a single-stage chemical reaction without catalysts, at normal temperature and pressure.

However, the production of the first, in the 30s of the last century, went into the production of plexiglass of a different origin, plexiglass and rhodoplex. The specific reaction of polycarbonate to ultraviolet radiation (UV, UV, ultraviolet) interfered. Under its action, the material not only quickly became cloudy, but also cracked, losing strength. industrial production Massive polycarbonate was first established only in 1953, also in Germany.

The "polycarbonate revolution" took place in the mid-70s in Israel. They feverishly built kibbutzim on the occupied Arab lands, and the settlers needed food, incl. fruits and vegetables. Grow tomatoes with cabbage open field it is useless in the desert, so it was decided to build greenhouses with drip irrigation. However, the glass ones turned out to be expensive, heavy, and the desert winds broke them without any participation of offended Muslims.

It was then that the Israelis came up with, first, to extrude polycarbonate, i.e. extrusion in a softened state through profiled nozzles - dies. It stabilized mechanical properties polycarbonate and improved them by an order of magnitude. Secondly, a two-layer UV protective coating began to be applied to the outer surface of the boards: the first layer reflected most of it, and the next one absorbed the remainder. This is how cellular polycarbonate appeared, see fig. And sheets of massive now also began to be extruded or cast under pressure, and a UV filter was also applied to them.

General Consequences

Like all cellular materials, polycarbonate has a very sharp fatigue threshold and collapses catastrophically: sudden and without warning signs. It costs itself and the building stands like a glove, and then - fuck! bang! - collapsed. On a new car or beds with a crop, the income from which feeds the whole family.

Further, honeycomb polycarbonate sheet is among the working materials. That is, he not only lies on the frame and transfers the load to it, but also perceives it and redistributes it. Excessive thickness and / or incorrectly chosen structure of the slab (see below) will not only make the structure heavier and more expensive, but will also give it excessive rigidity. The loads will spread poorly, and the entire structure will quickly, but imperceptibly, approach the threshold of fatigue, with all the consequences.

It is possible to reduce the probability of "fuck" to zero if the design and construction of polycarbonate is carried out not on a whim, but on the basis of the results of a calculation, the purpose of which is: a) to choose the optimal size of the plate; b) develop a frame for it. In the process of calculation, it is necessary to achieve an optimum strength on a wider scale so that natural and operational impacts do not obviously exceed it.

Finally, the UV protection of the board comes into effect only when exposed to atmospheric oxygen and sunlight, and the surface strength of the plate decreases. Nothing can be done, the best UV filter for polycarbonate has not yet been invented.

Based on all this, it is already possible to indicate the general rules for handling cellular polycarbonate:

1. Do not store boards in the light and do not buy if there is a suspicion that storage conditions have been violated.
2. When buying, selectively check 1-2 plates by twisting: 2 people lightly, by 3-5 degrees, twist the plate with a screw. The damaged material crackles. Conscientious sellers allow such a check and even offer it themselves.
3. Do not remove the protective film from the plates until the construction is completed. It pulls out from under the standard fasteners without problems.
4. Installing the flooring is fast. It is desirable to complete it within one working day. If it doesn’t work out, remove the protective film from the finished part, and interrupt the work for 2-3 days until the UV filter eats into the material. Mount the remainder carefully, as the previously finished surface is now easier to scratch.
5. Mount the boards only with the UV-resistant side facing out. The front side is marked protective film.

Such precautions are necessary because the UV filter is initially a thin layer of sticky jelly-like mass, like Velcro on tape. If the plate under the film is left in the light, then a photochemical reaction will begin in the UV filter, it, the film and the plate will stick together and all together will become unusable.

General rules

Cellular polycarbonate, besides that it itself works as part of the power circuit of the structure, is in some cases suitable for use in a prestressed state. It is probably not worth explaining what prestressed structures (PNK) are. The Ostankino TV tower is known to everyone.

carport

A carport is a very responsible building, especially if the car has been under it for a long time. In the summer, by the way, it is better to keep the car under a canopy, and not in a stuffy and sun-baked garage. Therefore, in this case, it would be advisable to use the principles of PNK. This will also significantly reduce the cost of metal for the frame and concreting. In this way, you can build simple and inexpensive, absolutely reliable canopies of various capacities (pos. 1-3 in the figure)

How - see below, but first discuss common mistakes. First, in places with prevailing winds of one direction, carports are often made inclined to the windward, pos. 4. For gas stations and cafes / restaurants, where the main thing is to shelter people who got out of the car from the weather, this is not bad, but for a long-term parking of a personal / family car, it can be simply dangerous.

The fact is that in such places, if it blows from the opposite side, then it is strong. And the sloped canopy now works like a wing, generating tremendous lift. If the canopy is on 2 pillars (pos. 4; by the way, it is twice as expensive as the same on 4 in the corners), then it will simply be demolished. And if on 4, then a pillar with a concrete "bump" can be torn out of the ground and go to beat on the car. Sorry, now non-insurance scrap metal.

In windy areas, a sloped carport is good as an extension to a house; It doesn't matter if it's upwind or downwind. According to aerodynamics, it is better to perform it arched (pos. 5). The design of the wing type with the extended slat / flap (pos. 6) is more original, it requires more material, work, and under the bent edge in bad weather there will be a vortex in which rain / snow drizzle will spin.

For free standing canopy the optimal design shown in pos. 7. If the prevailing winds are weak or moderate, which happens in most cases, then the convex part of the canopy is oriented towards the wind. In winter, this will allow you to reduce the snow load, see below for the calculation of canopies. If it “explodes” from the other side, then the wind pressure on the flat part will only press the canopy to the ground more tightly, and the drizzle cloud will be carried far to the side.

PNK or farm?

The specifications for honeycomb boards explicitly state that they can be bent (and not bent to irreversible deformations!) Only transversely, so that the internal stiffeners are perpendicular to the bend, and not along it. But some types of polycarbonate can also be bent lengthwise to a small extent, as shown on the left in fig. Then the roof of the flooring forms the PNK, which is very strong and rigid; the size of the crate cell can be made in any conditions (see below for calculation) from 1.5x2 m. An arched canopy-PNK for one car with a size of 3x4 m in plan will require a minimum consumption of material and work.

Note: the types of polycarbonate, its choice and design of the metal frame will be discussed in more detail later.

PNK made of rigid plastic and concrete have another useful property: over time, the material “settles down” in a new state and the technical parameters of the structure improve. Remember how the Ostankino tower was driven during the memorable fire. And they replaced the tightening ropes - and nothing, it costs, as it stood, it broadcasts. What broadcasts is not a question for the builders, they watch TV like everyone else.

If the canopy is a simple visor (on the left in the figure), then its ridge is also made as a simple frame attached to the wall of the building. If the canopy is free on pillars in the form of a full arch, then the ridge should be made trussed with the same parameters as for the next case.

With a canopy width of more than 3.5-3.6 m, arched or pitched, the roof rafters must be trussed. Widespread designs for material consumption are clearly redundant. This does not go to the detriment of strength, because. the frame is metal or wooden, but it requires more money and work.

Farms can be optimized according to the principle of variable strut pitch, well known to aviators. To do this, when designing a farm, the angle at the tops of its cells is kept constant, the average pos. The standard size of the strut profile is taken 1.5-2 times less than for poles, strapping and arches / shoulders of rafters.

The principle of PNK can also be used in metal frame, on the right in Fig. It will allow you to create a canopy with dimensions in terms of 4x6 m, costing only 4 pillars, 3 rafters from segmental arches with a bowstring, one ridge run, 3 props and 2 half-size diagonal ties, on the right in Fig. 2 standard (2.1x6 m) polycarbonate sheets, bent correctly across, will go to the roof.

The bottom line is that, under the wind and snow, do not let the vault spread and move in corners, and they are held by diagonal ties. In order for them to work as they should, the pillars need to be moved away from the very corners by 1/3 of the pitch of the rafters, and the crosshairs of the diagonals should be welded to the bowstring of the middle arch.

But main secret- in tightly stretched steel 4-6 mm steel cables inside the diagonal ties. It is they who give the frame excellent rigidity without sacrificing elasticity. You need to tighten the cables with screws, no spring will give the required force. Twice a year, in spring and autumn, the tension is checked and the cables are tightened. Cables need only flexible stranded double helical lay. Simple single-core spirals will quickly weaken, and cross ones are not suitable at all.

Porch

The canopy over the porch is not as responsible as the car, smaller size and attached to the wall of the building above the entrance. That's why technical requirements to it below, and aesthetic above.

Technical data in any climatic zone of the Russian Federation is almost always provided by a simple, without tightening bowstring, radius arch with two struts, pos. 1 in fig. It is also possible to use the PNK described above, then the entire canopy will consist of only 3 parts, pos. 2. If the overhang of the canopy is more than 1.5 m, then it makes sense to abandon the struts, and support the visor with pillars in the corners, pos. 3.

In general, strut poles are not a hindrance, especially if the porch is high and with railings, pos. 4. But with a low porch with radius steps, the pillars only require extra work, interfere with the passage and spoil the view, pos. 5. An exception is regions with extreme snow and wind loads, but shown in pos. 5th house is clearly not in this.

If the design visor is required without struts, then it must be made deep, as in pos. 6, so that the wings of the arch perceive the same loads. The strength and rigidity of slab cellular polycarbonate make it possible to use such a solution.

However, the outreach of the struts must be at least a third of the outreach of the canopy. Here the point is already in the wall of the building and the frame, they are not polycarbonate. If the struts are too small (pos. 7), the polycarbonate itself will stand, but the wind can break the frame or turn the entire visor out of the wall.

The original, but aerodynamically unsuccessful solution is shown in pos. 8. Well, where when did you see a wing on a rack only in front or behind? He will be turned out at speed; for the porch - in strong winds. Racks are made 2 at the edges or one in the middle, but this option is not suitable for the porch.

Generally speaking, the mechanical qualities of polycarbonate for a canopy over the door are not so important. More importantly, this material allows you to get a beautiful canopy only due to its own decorative qualities, without resorting to the services of a designer.

The second aesthetic advantage of polycarbonate is that it, in itself, is smooth and shiny, visually perfectly combined with metal. Polycarbonate roofing ennobles even ordinary structural steel painted with blacksmith paint. The so-called. top dominant. The product, which in itself looks rough, under an elegant roof acquires sophistication.

For an example in fig. below - drawings of a canopy over the entrance to the house. Its peculiarity, firstly, is that the side decorative elements do not carry a mechanical load and can be made by any master to the taste. The second is that to make them, an ordinary locksmith's shop is enough, dear artistic forging not required. And the third - thanks to the roofing of the pipe rack correctly calculated for polycarbonate, you can make any, from 30 mm, diameter, from a regular or stainless pipe, and change their length over a wide range. All this together gives the canopy visual lightness.

Note : one of the ways how to make a canopy over a polycarbonate porch yourself without welding, see the video below. For a beginner, this is essential.

Video: homemade polycarbonate visor without welding

gazebos

To understand how cozy and comfortable polycarbonate should be, you need to understand the question: why is it not used to build residential premises? Are polycarbonate showers and beach cabins a rarity? Have you thought about it?

The fact is that polycarbonate, better than silicate glass, transmits light, at the same time better reflects thermal (infrared, IR) radiation. From here - strong greenhouse effect. Visible light, entering the room, is absorbed in it, which is why everything inside heats up, emitting IR. And it is again reflected inward. To create a microclimate in greenhouses, this is just what you need. But living quarters will be unbearably parky.

The greenhouse-polycarbonate effect already affects the gazebos, especially if their skin is curved and concentrates IR. For example, in the creation of Ukrainian designers (pos. 5 in the figure), not only the alarming red light hits the nerves, but you will also evaporate even in spring or autumn. To bring yourself to the right degree before the next Maidan, it’s suitable, especially if “it’s sausage in life” without that. But it is not suitable for spiritual gatherings. If you really want an all-weather exclusive, you will have to pay 7-12 thousand dollars for comfort with prestige and order a capital dome with sliding sections, forced ventilation and air conditioning, pos. 6.

Note: due to the strong greenhouse effect, it is undesirable to make a polycarbonate gazebo with a barbecue, it is a powerful source of IR.

Ventilation is not mentioned in vain. In a gazebo with a polycarbonate roof, at least 2 walls should be openwork, providing free air circulation, as in pos. 1 and 3. If the fence is solid, it must be made waist-high to a person and certainly with ventilation gap below, pos. 2.

The next stumbling block is the coordination of materials for aesthetics. In polycarbonate, it is exceptionally high-tech, so it is difficult to match it with wood. The same gazebo in pos. one - good example. I don't really want to live in such a wooden aquarium. If to do wooden gazebo under polycarbonate, then you need to either take the color of the plates warm, to match the wood, or paint the gazebo under the roof, make it from fine details and in a laconic style, as in pos. 2.

For budgetary unpretentious designs, the principle of color contrast of aesthetically gravitating parts will be effective. At pos. 4 metal, which is naturally combined with polycarbonate, is painted in a flashy and contrasting color for the roof. Therefore, the service parts seem to be at war with each other, and the functionally main ones - benches and a table - create an inviting island of comfort. Whoever was the author of this arbor, nature did not deprive him of artistic taste.

From general to specific

If you are tired of general, but still necessary, reasoning, get ready to receive a lot of specific instructions, numerical data and calculations: we are starting to figure out how the canopy is made. So far from the previous you need to remember that polycarbonate sheathing is working. Enough has been said about PNK above.

More about working skin

Take the same 4 pieces of slats, well, they say, 20x20, the ends of which are selected in a quarter, and 4 carnations. Knock down a square from the rails, driving nails into the corners, and paste over it with thick paper. Now try to skew. Warps? Is the paper wrinkled, torn? The upholstery doesn't work.

Now take the slats two to four times thinner and a piece of thin cardboard. Before churning into a square, overlay cardboard and churn straight through without gluing. Warps? Where there, you can drop on the floor. This is the working cover. And what makes it work is greater than that of paper of the same thickness and density, the rigidity of the cardboard, because it is pressed during the manufacturing process.

Now let's take the old thick slats, and on the tire instead of paper or cardboard - a thin tin. Let's drop the product on the floor. If you hit a corner, it will shatter into pieces: too rigid a skin won back to the point that it destroyed the frame. The previous version, cheaper and simpler, turned out to be stronger with the maximum possible impact.

Polycarbonate works in the same way, only its rigidity per unit of both thickness and mass is much higher. One condition: if the rigidity of the skin is lost (for example, due to excessive deflection of the sheet), then it can not only collapse itself, but also pull the frame along with it. This also needs to be clearly remembered.

What do we do?

The question in the title translates into technical language: the preliminary design stage. AT this case its purpose:

• Choose the type of canopy according to its purpose and personal requirements.
• Choose general principles the buildings.
• Choose a method of attaching the flooring to the frame.
• Choose the type of roof panels for your specific local conditions.
• Determine the type of frame material and its required standard sizes.
• Develop a way to install / attach the frame to the base.

Canopy selection

Typical designs of canopies are shown in fig. This does not mean that another cannot be made; possibly unique. But for typical structures in construction manuals (SNiP 2.01.07-85 "Loads and impacts"; SP 20.13330.2011) full sets of design parameters and coefficients for them are given. Polycarbonate endures a lot, but it does not forgive too much exposure. That's why the original project will have to be carefully modeled on a computer and, since it is impossible to check from operating experience, large “all-over” corrections should be set. Due to the characteristics of the material described above, the design becomes more complicated at times and orders of magnitude. This explains the exorbitant cost of exclusive awnings.

When choosing, consider the following:

1. For Russian conditions(winds are mostly light, but there is a lot of snow) the best options are a dome, a simple radius arch and an awning.
2. The last two in polycarbonate design are almost equal in terms of labor intensity and material consumption to a gable canopy.
3. A concave canopy is not recommended; with snow accumulation according to the 2nd limit state (see below), its reliability is low, and the injury hazard it creates is vice versa. The exception is places with little snow and strong winds.
4. A simple shed polycarbonate canopy must outside corners lean on poles. If it is impossible to put them, you need to make a canopy with a valance or a straight box. Clearance height not less than 12% long side; boxes - at least 20% short.

The last requirement is due to the fact that the wind can wrap the edge of the canopy in a wave or "propeller". Having won back, when the impulse subsides, the rigid and elastic polycarbonate is able to twist the frame.

Special mention should be made of carports:

1. Most of the RF optimal design- arched.
2. For places with little snow, but windy (from the Lower Volga region and Derbent to the Russian Sea of ​​\u200b\u200bAzov), a two-slope canopy with an angle of inclination of up to 10-15 degrees is more suitable; its aerodynamic quality is lower, and the labor intensity is less.
3. In a very extreme climate: the South Coast (of the Arctic Ocean, this is a prison term), Chukotka, Kamchatka, mountainous regions, an elongated gentle arch, a low elongated dome, or the simple combined canopy of increased resistance described below will be more reliable.

How will we build?

Here in fig. with canopies the general assembly technology is shown. She is easy:

• Support columns of the base standard size are placed, a strapping is made on their top.
• The crate is mounted under the roof.
• Longitudinal supports are welded or cut flush into the transverse crate of load-bearing beams (rafter legs, arcs of arches) - runs, of a smaller size. Skate run, if any, is taken from the base type.
• The joints of the plates should fall on the transverse beams; we will calculate the step of cross-links.
• The plates are joined using special profiles or self-made connecting nodes, see below. Now the structure is able to support vertical loads.
• The slabs are attached to the girders with point fasteners with gaps for thermal deformations and elastic gaskets, it is thanks to them that the skin works.
• The ends of the panels and the ridge are formed, as described later in the assembly section.

Choosing panels

Which polycarbonate to choose for a canopy? Its quality and operational properties, contrary to advertising claims, are more dependent on the structure of the panel than on trademarks and manufacturers' brands. Let the reader know that the situation with polycarbonate is a bit like a beer: the powder (granular mass) is produced by only a few companies around the world, and the rest are bred, that is, they are passed through an extruder, poured (cut), dripping a drop of flavor (applying UV- filter), also purchased, stick their own label and put it on sale.

Note: the best polycarbonate granulate in the world is Russian. The domestic industry produces its types that have no analogues. Unfortunately, manufacturers, like Solomon, keep the secret of their print, whose raw materials they use. However, for domestic use any branded panels are good.

The main types of honeycomb polycarbonate are shown in fig. Symbols [number] R indicate the number of longitudinal layers, and X - the presence of diagonal stiffeners in the honeycombs. The thickness of the sheet and its structure are not directly related: panels of the same structure can be of different thicknesses, and vice versa. A typical sales assortment is shown below. rice.

How to accurately select a panel by thickness, we will figure it out in the order of calculation. The recommendations for structure are as follows:

• 2R, minimum allowable bending radius (MRI) 35 thickness - for canopies over a door, a showcase, a small porch or gazebos in 1-2 wind and snow zones, see maps below.
• 3R, MRI 45 thickness - the same for 3-4 climatic zones, and in quiet places with little snow for general use, except for long-term carports.
• 3RX, MRI 55 thickness - for everything above and carports in the same places.
• 5R, MRI 75 thickness - the same as 3R, for 5-6 snow and 1-2 wind zones.
• 5RX, MRI 120 thickness - the same as 5R, for 5-6 snow and 3-6 wind zones.
• 6RX, MRI 300 thickness - in places with a very harsh climate, mainly for greenhouses. Not recommended for awnings, very hard.

Note: MRI are approximate for bending across the sheet, they are specified according to the specification for specific panels. Longitudinal bending in the PNA composition is acceptable for 3RX and 5RX under the conditions described above.

Snow and wind...

Already now we needed maps of the estimated wind pressure in the Russian Federation:

and snow load:

The numerical values ​​of the parameters are not needed yet, but will be required later. We will immediately give explanations for the snow map:

The first limiting case is the gradual accumulation of snow in a quiet, consistently frosty winter with heavy rainfall. Snow, not having time to evaporate dry (sublimate), freezes below into a dense granular mass - firn. In the spring, the snow layer with a firn lining on smooth polycarbonate first rests on the heads of the fasteners, and then, having melted, slides down all at once.

The second limiting case is an unstable winter, with thaws and/or strong winds. There may be no visible accumulation of snow on the roof. But he, moving down the slope, sticks together into large lumps, heavily loading the roof overhangs and gutters. For smooth polycarbonate, especially for a canopy without gutters, this case is not significant.

Note: a layer of snow of 5 cm increases the wind load by 3 kg/sq. m; 10 cm - per 10 kg / sq. m; 15 cm - per 12 kg / sq. m; 25 cm - per 15 kg / sq. m. These are indicative values ​​for conventional polycarbonate canopies, the exact increase, if necessary, is calculated from the aerodynamics of the roof.

About the panel thickness

What should be the thickness of the polycarbonate for the canopy? Not less than 10 mm, such a 3RX sheet on a 1.5x2 m crate cell holds the weight of an adult. But remember the experiments with slats, cardboard and tin: optimal thickness panels need to be defined comprehensively, along with its structure. We will do this later, in the process of calculating the roof.

frame

Polycarbonate is closer in strength to metal than to wood. Therefore, alas, get a working skin on wooden frame will not work. Polycarbonate panels for wood are like slate, roofing iron or ondulin. How, nevertheless, to lay polycarbonate on a tree, we will briefly consider at the end, but for now let's deal with a more suitable metal.

Metal is a massive material. This greatly simplifies the calculation of the frame; you can use generalizing-averaging methods. The optimal profile of the bearing element is a square steel tube with rounded corners. In terms of the ratio of strength to material, labor input and total cost, it turns out to be, as they say, a circle ahead of the others.

The calculated ratios also come out simple:

• 1-2 wind and snow zones - basic standard size, with a wall thickness of 2 mm, from 10 mm per 1 m of the largest canopy size in the plan, but not less than 40 mm.
• 3-4 zones, those and those - the base for general-purpose sheds is the same, but for car sheds from 15 mm / m.
• 5-6 wind and 5 snow zone - total base from 15 mm/m, auto - from 20 mm/m.
• 7 wind, 6 and 7 snow zones - total base from 20 mm/m, auto - from 30 mm/m.

We choose the zone according to the worst. That is, if we are in the 1st wind and 5th snow zone, then we ignore the wind and count on the snow. In the same way, by the way, in all subsequent calculations, if the parameters of both wind and snow are not used. Select the nearest larger profile from a number of standard sizes.

In the basic standard size, we carry out poles, their top harness(support frame) and the main load-bearing elements:

1. Rafter legs.
2. Their full lower beams are puffs.
3. Arcs of arches; if the arch is of two arcs (double, "lunar") - both arcs.
4. Strings of segmental arches.
5. Skate ride.
6. Median supports of rafters and arches - headstock.
7. Pole braces, top and bottom.

Auxiliary load-bearing elements - purlins, braces of truss arches and rafters, etc. - are made from a half-size profile. Increasing it to base doesn't hurt.

For example, in the Voronezh region. for a garden gazebo and a carport for a budget small car measuring 3x4 m, only a 40 mm professional pipe will go. In the Moscow region, the frame of the gazebo will remain the same, but a canopy for the same car needs a pipe of at least 60 mm, and for a solid Lexus - 80 mm. But on the east coast of Kamchatka, for a gazebo (who will sit there?), You need a pipe of 80 mm, and for any carport - from 120 mm.

Hammer, dig in, concrete?

Now let's figure out how the pillars are installed, guided by the principle: cheap and cheerful. For a gazebo and a porch, the best option is a diameter of the base size, the cheapest ones are more than enough. The screwing depth is not less than 1200 mm.

The point here is not only that they are unlikely to cost more than a profile with concreting. And not even in the simplicity and speed of screwing: a screw pile will transfer any loads into the ground, incl. lateral. A canopy will give them be healthy, but concrete does not like such.

If the gazebo is solid wood, the pillars can simply be dug into the ground by 600-900 mm. This is more reliable than driving pipe trimmings into the ground, and the roots of the pillars are in them. But first, the section of the pillar that will be in the ground must be thoroughly saturated with boiling bitumen. If the size of the bitumen vessel allows (say, it is boiled in a cut off industrial gas cylinder or in a pipe welded from below), then put a piece of wood there and hold for 1-5 minutes until the bitumen around the tree stops bubbling. This means that water evaporated from the wood and air came out, and bitumen entered instead. When the impregnation has cooled to a tack, the earthen end of the column is wrapped with roofing material and immediately buried in a pre-drilled hole.

For a carport, overall stability is most important, and it is larger in size. Here already without concreting not to do. But each post will loosen the concrete plug by itself, not like in the fence. And the fence almost does not give alternating vertical loads, and the canopy creates large ones.

A typical scheme for concreting pillars under a canopy provides for the installation of special embedded parts (anchors), on the left in the figure, which convert all loads into compression familiar to concrete. From the point of view of mass production for general sale, this is optimal - any post can be screwed to the anchor. But in terms of strength, it’s not so hot: the antinodes of the loads on the column (the places of their concentration) fall, as they used to say, exactly, on detachable connections.

If you make a canopy yourself, then you can save a lot on anchors, and increase the strength of the frame by 1.5-2 times. To do this (on the right in the figure):

1. At a distance of 600-900 mm from the lower ends of the pillars, we weld plates to them from 350x350 mm, from 8 mm thick.
2. At the corners of the plates, 40-50 mm from the edges, segments of a steel bar with a diameter of 16 mm and a length of 350-400 mm should be welded through.
3. From the outside, each pillar is supported by one strut.
4. The depth of the pit under the post is 300 mm more than the depth of its embedding in concrete (along the slab), of which 100-120 mm will fall on the sand cushion.

About the number of pillars

How many canopy poles do you need? They are labor-intensive, I want less, but without loss of reliability. Well, for concrete poles, wind recommendations can be given; any snow load can withstand:

• 1-3 zones - the maximum step is 6 m.
• 4 and 5 zones - step up to 4 m.
• Zones 6 and 7 - step up to 2.5 m.

The minimum allowable pole spacing for all zones is 1.7 m. If set more often, strong wind bump into them like a solid wall. Then the canopy should be calculated not as a canopy, but as the roof of a building, and this is a completely different topic.

How to fix panels?

More recently, connecting profiles for polycarbonate were assembled on self-tapping screws or screws, at the top left in fig. Here:

1. Decorative overlay.
2. Upper retaining profile.
3. The seal is normal.
4. Polycarbonate panel.
5. The seal is self-adhesive.
6. Self-tapping screw
7. Anti-dust tape with microfilters in perforation.
8. End profile.
9. load-bearing frame element.

Note: anti-dust tape is essential. Without it, the panels not only get dirty from the inside, but also crack from there.

Self-made, using silicone for sealing or, for low-wind places, microporous rubber, and cut PVC boxes for covers, successfully managed without expensive branded connectors, at the top right in fig. If the outlets of the panel channels were at different levels (for example, in PNK), only the lower end was covered with anti-dust tape, and the upper end was covered with cheaper aluminum self-adhesive tape, at the bottom left in Fig.

For point fixings, in any case, special thermal washers are required, at the bottom in the center and on the right in fig. Successful attempts to replace them with their own inventions are unknown. The fact is that at the slightest mismatch between the parameters of the thermal expansion of the plate and the thermal washer, the panel warps, the flooring loses its strength and dust and dirt penetrate into its channels.

In general, point attachments - weakness polycarbonate. Thermal washers should be purchased recommended by the panel manufacturer, or vice versa. Others are possible, but then a test is needed: the washer is tightened without bringing its cover to the panel by 1 mm. At the same time, the gasket should become flush with the edge of the cover or not reaching it, also 1 mm, but in no case should it protrude.

Now the "screw" technology of joining plates is becoming obsolete. In all respects, including aesthetic ones, it is superior to snap-on connection profiles, fig. below. Compare, for example, a ridge joint on screws (fig. on the right above), and using the RP profile. And the cost of solid plastic connectors has fallen so much that it makes no sense to fence homemade products.

About cutting panels

The best option for cutting by hand is a circular hand saw with a "clean cut" wheel. These are used by parquet workers working with laminate; Outwardly, this tool looks like a hair clipper.

For polycarbonate, an indispensable condition is that the saw must be with a sawdust removal system (simply, with suction). Only in this case, the cut of hard plastic will be really clean, and the small teeth of a special profile only contribute to it.

Step right, step left...

Now we have come to finally finishing the calculation of the canopy. We have to define:

1. precise thickness and structure of the panels;
2. installation step of rafters or arches;
3. run installation step;
4. location of point fasteners on the runs.

In order to find all this, you must first determine the total (summary, combined) load on the roof. For a canopy, this is not so simple, because. the wind blows freely under it.

Load

From the zoning maps of Russia in terms of wind and snow load, it can be seen that in most of its territory, snow presses much more strongly. From here, a useful circumstance follows for the canopy: by varying the parameters of the chosen structure (or choosing another one, if it does not converge), you need to achieve some “negative” wind load.

“Negative” is quoted because in fact this load is positive: the wind tends to tear off the roof, this will unload it from the snow and allow better matching of the strength parameters of the frame and flooring, which will simplify and reduce the cost of construction. For cellular polycarbonate, which, with a thickness of 16 mm, does not break under the feet of a healthy man, this approach is quite legitimate.

Here it is appropriate to recall the Suvorov principle: hard in learning, easy in the campaign. Not in battle, Suvorov did not say that. He knew that combat was never easy. The calculation of the wind load is simple, but time-consuming.

The wind effect on the roof is calculated as follows:

• Using the construction manuals (for example, those indicated above) for the selected type of roof, we find the location of the wind zones, their sizes and design coefficients for specific parameters of the canopy. Example for a house under gable roof see fig.

• For each zone of action (application of force), we find the magnitude of the wind pressure by multiplying its calculated value on the map by the area of ​​the zone and its coefficient.
• We sum them up and divide by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe canopy in the plan. A working polycarbonate sheathing will endure this with a margin.
• By changing the parameters of the roof, we achieve the most complete compensation of snow pressure, using load zoning maps. Do not forget to check for pulling out the supports, knowing that 1 pole sits in ordinary soil with a force of 1.2 tons!
• If necessary, we take a different type of canopy, add pillars.
• Do not forget to take into account that the snow enhances the effect of the wind, see above!
• Having achieved the optimum, we proceed to the choice of panels and the pitch of the rafters.

Now we calculate the actual snow load as P = p*cos α, where p is the calculated load in our area; P is the actual load; α is the angle of the roof slope. For low radius arches α is the angle of inclination of the line from the ridge to the Mauerlat. We add the snow load with the wind load algebraically, taking into account the signs. For smooth polycarbonate, the coefficient of adhesion of snow to the roof can be neglected.

Panels, rafters, arches

Now let's take Table. in fig. on right. Using it, knowing the total load on the roof (wind + snow), you can immediately find the pitch of the rafters, the thickness and structure of the panel.

You just need to adhere to the following conditions:

• Step rafters choose a multiple standard width panels in 2.1 m or its whole parts: 1/2, 1/3, 1/4.
• The connection of panels should only be on the main load-bearing elements, hanging joints are unacceptable.
• It is necessary to take into account the recommendations for choosing the structure of the panels given above.

Note: in zones starting from the 5th, it is impossible to use panels weaker than 5RX 16 mm. In general, to optimize for a negative load, you need to select panels, the frame will not help much here.

About attaching connectors

You don’t need to think about the step of attaching the connecting profiles to the rafters: it is a multiple of the step of the mounting holes in them. The standard value is 300, 450, 600 mm, depending on the climate.

Runs

With runs, the situation is simpler: their step is equal to one and a half from the rafters. Let's say, if the rafters are after 1 m, then the runs are after 1.5 m. If there is less than one run on the shoulder of the roof, then from the longitudinal ties a longitudinal beam of the strapping (Mauerlat) and a ridge are sufficient.

Here, using the work of the sheathing, you can apply an interesting trick: we find the step of the rafters from the table, we calculate the step of the runs and calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cell of the crate. Then, withstanding it, we put the rafters more often, until the runs go away at all. We get an "air" canopy, and there are plenty of our own internal runs in each panel.

Point fixings

The minimum pitch of the "dots" is 300 mm. If you put them more often, the overall strength of the panels will weaken due to the holes in them. For a combined load of less than 100 kg/sq. We put 3 “points” per run: one at 15-20 cm from the joints and one in the middle. For large ones, we take the pitch of the “points” approximately equal to half the pitch of the rafters for the 3R 6 mm structure, this is the top line in the table, but we observe the same trinity: be sure to have one from the edges and one in the middle.

Strong economy (example for a car)

In accordance with all of the above, a fairly well-known design of an economical but durable carport has been developed, see fig.

• The configuration of the roof is such that snow does not accumulate on it in any climate: the weakest wind blows it from above, and it falls off the sidewalls even without wind, the flooring is smooth. And with prolonged calm with heavy snowfalls, the weight of snow on the site at the top is distributed over the entire area of ​​​​the roof support and the total load is halved.
• For "wind roads", narrow valleys and hollows, a roof variant has been developed, shown on the right in Fig. The crests of its lanterns are oriented according to the prevailing wind. It will blow back - it's okay, it will blow in the same way.

Polycarbonate on wood

As already said, polycarbonate roof on a wooden base - just a flooring. Roofing on a tree is a separate issue. Here we only show in Fig. their main types and designs of rafters.

Note: typos in fig. no. Laid means that they are leaned on the walls from above, and not leaning against them from the side. Do you think it is in vain that philologists consider the Russian language unparalleled in expressiveness?

On the trail. rice. - drawings of wooden rafters for shed canopies near the wall of the building. Support posts where shown are required! On a tree, the strength and rigidity of polycarbonate can only reduce the cross section of the main load-bearing elements (see above) to 60x100 mm, and the auxiliary ones to 40x60 mm.

Make or buy?

But what will we gain by comprehending all these complexities and applying them in practice? Compare: the cost of 2R 4 mm panels in the Russian Federation ranges from 1600 to 2200 rubles / sq. m; for 1 square 5RX 16 mm - within 3900-4200 rubles / sq. m. For a ready-made simple, arched on 4 pillars, a carport with installation on site, they ask for 2200-4500 rubles / sq. m. It is clearly unprofitable to do it yourself, for the pros there are wholesale prices and dealer discounts.

A light structure on a personal plot will protect from bad weather at any time of the year. Before you start designing, you should carefully review the photo of the polycarbonate canopy. This will allow you to choose the most suitable option.

The canopy is easy to do on your own, it will allow you to save natural light. Under it, just organize a comfortable resting place.

The transparent design is good mechanical strength, it has become an excellent alternative to glass elements in modern construction. A polycarbonate canopy will be an ideal solution for a car, gazebo, pool. Such a design organically fits into the surrounding landscape.

Benefits of polycarbonate

To build a structure above the entrance to a building or above a car, a composite sheet is used. It bends perfectly, provides a scattering effect. A modern polycarbonate canopy will prevent sound from raining. It washes well, but organic solvents should not be used for it.

Don't forget to visit this useful ideas about landscape design!

Polycarbonate has the following advantages:

• Attractive price.
• The strength and reliability of the resulting structure.
• The ability to get a design of any shape.
• material transparency.
• Not afraid of temperature changes.
• Easy installation.

The disadvantages of the material include the fact that over time, under the influence of ultraviolet rays, its transparency decreases. After 12 years, it becomes brittle.

To obtain a visually monolithic structure, special methods of welding composite elements are used. You can also use glue for this material.

Monolithic polycarbonate looks more presentable, but it is more difficult to process. It needs a solid foundation. It is often used by builders to imitate glass elements.

Calculation and preparatory work

To get a strong visor and frame with minimal costs, you should correctly calculate. To do this, you need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe canopy. It is important to consider that the thickness of the sheet is selected so that it can withstand snow in winter. The reliability of the structure mainly depends on the foundation.

Then the vertical load is set. Many owners of cottages and country houses are interested in how to make a polycarbonate canopy. You can cope with such a task on your own, without involving specialists in this task.

First of all, it is required to develop drawings, on which all dimensions must be indicated. It is also necessary to determine the location of the power elements and their number. It is necessary to take into account the strength of the air currents characteristic of the area where the canopy is installed. If it is mounted for a car, then its dimensions must be larger than the vehicle.

The next step is to determine the thickness of the support elements. Take care of the tools to do the job. The amount of materials you need to purchase depends on the created project.

Before installation, you should take care of arranging the site under it. Most practical solution will become a tile. Before laying it, mark the places where the supports will be installed, which should be poured with concrete. Subsequent operations are performed after 3 days.

Do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopy

In order to properly install the structure, all dimensions of the polycarbonate canopy must be verified. The height of the vertical elements should be the same, a longitudinal beam is laid out on them. It is attached using electric welding. The second beam is mounted on the vertical wall of the building. Between them are fixed metal elements.

A special coating is applied to polycarbonate, which is necessary to reduce the adverse effects of sunlight on the structure of the material. From above, the manufacturer provides a special protective film on the coating, it is removed after installation.

Before laying, the sheets are cut with an electric saw. For fixing polycarbonate, special kits are purchased, which include linings, seals, self-tapping screws.

At the final stage, decorative strips are attached to the canopy, which close the seams. To close the internal cavity of the material from dust and prevent moisture from entering, the side ends are sealed with perforated tape.

Mounting Features

Doing the work yourself will save you money. If you are interested in how to make a polycarbonate canopy, then you need to consider that all work is carried out in accordance with the developed scheme.

This will allow you to build a reliable and durable construction. It looks aesthetically attractive, there is an opportunity to choose suitable color sheets of material.

Competent installation implies the presence of special expansion gaps. Polycarbonate has a high coefficient of thermal expansion. If this condition is not met, then the material quickly loses its performance characteristics. You don't need to overtighten the screws.

For private households, a design can be chosen in which one of the supports is the wall of the house. The material allows you to make a separate structure, for the fastening of which metal elements are used. A practical canopy will decorate the backyard, perfectly fit into the surroundings.

Photo of a polycarbonate canopy

Polycarbonate is a modern high-tech material that is increasingly used in construction. It is made by extrusion from polycarbonate granules and is, in fact, a polymer plastic. Popularity due unique properties substances: it is transparent, has a very high strength and low weight, besides it is plastic and tolerates low temperatures well. An excellent replacement for outdated PVC panels.

Types of polycarbonate - material properties

There are two main types of polycarbonate:

• monolithic;
• cellular.

Cellular polycarbonate device - main characteristics

The device of cellular polycarbonate is quite simple, it is a panel consisting of several layers of transparent or matte plastic, firmly connected by vertical stiffeners, which are located in the direction of the material fibers.

Due to the presence of air in the voids between the layers, the panels have excellent thermal insulation. Despite the rigid construction, the sheets are easy to bend even in a cold state, which makes it indispensable in the construction of objects of complex shapes.

Table of dependence of the main parameters and characteristics of cellular polycarbonate.

Monolithic polycarbonate - useful properties

Unlike cellular, monolithic polycarbonate consists of a molded plastic sheet and has a number of useful properties:

• lasting;
• transparent or matte;
• very light;
• absorbs ultraviolet light.

The scope of its application is not limited to construction, this material is successfully used in all areas of industry, including high-tech ones.

Polycarbonate structures - the main advantages

Absolutely all polycarbonate structures, whether it is a carport, a canopy over the entrance, a roof or a cover for a greenhouse, have a number of indisputable advantages:

• excellent appearance (variety of shapes and colors);
• low cost;
• defence from negative impact UV radiation;
• the ability of the material to be transparent or matte;
• durability;
• ease of installation and maintenance;

Polycarbonate canopy structures - roof shape

There are a lot of designs of polycarbonate canopies, but they are all divided into groups according to the number of slopes:

• lean-to;
• gable.

It can also be classified according to the shape of the slope:

• straight;
• arched;

If you dig even deeper, then the products differ in the structure of the roof, which can be supported on rafters or a truss, the presence of a crate, and so on.

Polycarbonate canopy over the entrance to the garage

Types of polycarbonate canopies - classification by purpose

Being an excellent alternative to metal and wood, polycarbonate is actively used as a covering for awnings, which have a wide range of applications.

Polycarbonate carport or "Autocanopy"

A polycarbonate carport is a great way to protect your car from external negative factors. The shape of the carport can be anything, for example, arcuate, polygonal, arched or classic rectangular - it all depends on your imagination. Do not forget about environmental friendliness, which is especially important for summer cottages or country houses.

Polycarbonate Pool Canopy - Indoor Pavilion

The polycarbonate canopy for swimming pools has many useful features. It protects people from the bright sun, preventing heat stroke. Creates shade and prevents water from blooming. The water-repellent texture of the panels does not allow drops to linger, allowing them to flow down under their own weight. The covered pond is protected from dirt and leaves.

The solution is more expensive, however, at the end, you get completely different results:

• You can use the swimming pool in winter and summer;
• full protection against dirt and water blooms;
• plenty of shade, much needed on a hot day;
• a rigid construction that is not afraid of even the strongest winds.

Canopy over the porch made of polycarbonate - a roof for the entrance group

To protect the entrance to the house and the adjacent territory (porch or veranda) from bad weather or the scorching sun, a polycarbonate visor is constructed.

The variety of shapes and colors make it possible to most aesthetically fit the canopy into the architectural composition of the building. You can choose from clear or frosted plastic to provide just the right amount of sunlight.

Polycarbonate canopy above the front door to the house Polycarbonate canopy on a metal frame above the front door Polycarbonate canopy in the yard

Canopy over a polycarbonate balcony - an alternative to glazing

Installing a polycarbonate canopy over the balcony is an excellent solution if your balcony loses its functionality during the first rain or snowfall, because it is simply impossible to get out on it.

For lovers of greenhouses, a transparent plastic canopy is suitable, which will provide the plants with sufficient sunlight.

Such a roof will protect from precipitation and slow down the aging of the balcony, especially if it is made of wood, it will prevent the formation of mold and other fungi, which is extremely important if you use it as a pantry.

A canopy over a polycarbonate terrace is the key to a comfortable stay

What could be better than relaxing in a country house in the fresh air. But so that the scorching sun or rain does not spoil your pleasant pastime, install a canopy over the polycarbonate terrace, which will not only create shade, but also shelter you from bad weather.

Under such a roof, you can organize a summer kitchen and enjoy cooking outdoors.

Polycarbonate gazebo canopy - modern roofing

If you are puzzled and do not know what material to cover the gazebo with, then pay attention to the polycarbonate canopy. The advantages that this material possesses make it the best option for roofing.

You can make a transparent roof or a colored matte one that will create interesting lighting and complement landscape design site. In any case, such a roof will provide complete protection from ultraviolet rays and precipitation, and what else is required from a gazebo canopy?

How to choose polycarbonate for a canopy - which one is better?

Now you know what types of plastic are and how to use them. It remains only to choose polycarbonate for the canopy. Which is better?

For the roof of all the above structures: porches, balconies, terraces, verandas, swimming pools, car parking and other things, cellular polycarbonate is perfect, which will allow you to make a canopy of any shape and color.

The thickness of cellular polycarbonate for a canopy - choose wisely

It is worth paying the most careful attention to the choice of the thickness of the cellular polycarbonate for the canopy, which should be selected based on the type and purpose of the future structure. Key Points here are: crate step, calculation of snow and wind load, bending radius.

For the roof of outdoor structures, you should not use the most thin sheets. There is an opinion that buying a panel of a smaller thickness can save money, but this is not so. The fact is that in this case you will have to use a more frequent crate step, which will lead to additional costs. But buying the thickest panels, trying to maximize the strength and reliability of the structure, is also not worth it. It is necessary to select the thickness of polycarbonate sheets, starting solely from the purpose and features of the structure.

• Honeycomb panels, 4 mm thick, are perfect for the construction of greenhouses, greenhouses, advertising structures.
• 6-8 mm - for wide application, for example, for the construction of canopies, all kinds of canopies, stained-glass windows, various partitions, roof.
• Sheets 10 mm thick are used for vertical surfaces: noise barriers, skylights;
• 16mm panels can withstand heavy loads and are excellent for roofing large areas such as car parks.

Polycarbonate canopy frame
When designing the basis of the structure, it is necessary to take into account the longitudinal (q) and transverse (d) steps of the frame. For longitudinal bearing supports, a step of no more than 700 mm is recommended, for transverse supports it is calculated based on the thickness of the sheet, and for 8-16 mm panels it is not more than a meter. If the thickness of the plastic sheet is less than 8 mm, then the step is up to 700 mm.

Choosing the color of cellular polycarbonate

Along with the thickness, it is important to choose the right color for cellular polycarbonate. The panel can be of various colors and degrees of transparency: turquoise, milky, blue, green, bronze, matte, transparent, etc.

When choosing a color, the main thing to consider is the purpose of the design. For example, turquoise, blue and green panels are ideal for constructing a polycarbonate canopy over a pool, but will be completely unsuitable for building canopies over retail counters, completely distorting the color of products and goods.

Of course, transparent sheets should be used to cover the greenhouse, but they are not suitable for a canopy over a recreation area, since they do not protect from sunlight at all.

Is the quality of cellular polycarbonate important?

The quality of cellular polycarbonate directly depends on the manufacturer. Choosing products famous brands, you can be sure of the reliability and environmental friendliness of products. A solid product has a special layer of protection against ultraviolet radiation applied to the surface of the sheet. It perfectly protects the material itself and everything under it from the aggressive effects of sunlight.

The amount of secondary raw materials used for the manufacture of sheets is also important, which should not exceed established norms. Companies that value their reputation adhere to strict standards, ensuring a high level of polycarbonate quality.

Consequences of Saving

How to make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands - video and photo instructions

To make a polycarbonate canopy with your own hands, you should carefully consider the action plan and outline the main steps:

1. Design;
2. Site arrangement;
3. Frame assembly;
4. Panel mounting;

Polycarbonate Canopy Project - Design Stages

Having chosen a place for the product, it is necessary to draw up a project for a polycarbonate canopy:

When designing any structure, a load calculation is made that takes into account the action external factors(wind, snowfall) on the structure. Based on the results, the material is selected and adjustments are made to the design of the product.

For example, the distance between supports depends on climatic conditions and ranges from 1 to 1.5 m. in large numbers precipitation and, accordingly, large snow loads, this parameter will take the maximum value.

Arrangement of a platform for a canopy

Arrangement of the site begins with marking. In places where the racks of the frame will be located, we dig recesses of 50-150 cm, depending on the height of the canopy, and install embedded parts in them. We put them exactly vertically and fill them with concrete. Subsequently, racks will be screwed to them.

Along the perimeter of the site, it is desirable to lay drainage pipes or make grooves to drain excess water.

On a leveled area, you can lay the final coating. What do you prefer?

Concrete screed

If the soil is not subject to displacement and is sufficiently stable, then a concrete screed with a frame of reinforcement can be made. To do this, a wooden formwork of the required height is constructed along the contour of the site. On top of the sand, in the resulting form, concrete is poured in an even layer of 5 cm, on which, without waiting for solidification, it is laid reinforcing mesh. All this is again filled with a layer of concrete.

The thickness of the concrete screed must be at least 10 cm. If you plan to use a polycarbonate canopy for a car, then it is better to play it safe and increase this value.

The concrete will harden in 2-3 days and it will be possible to remove the formwork. However, the site is currently unusable. In the best case, she needs to settle for a month so that the concrete completely gives up moisture and gains strength - then it can withstand any weight.

paving slabs

If the soil is unstable and prone to swelling, then perhaps after a year concrete screed crack and fall into disrepair. Therefore, you need to choose a different coating. Could be a great alternative paving slabs, during laying of which a monolithic layer is not formed. Due to this, moisture from the ground evaporates better and the base is not so prone to swelling.

The tile is laid on a bed of compacted sand without any binder mixtures. It is “nailed” with a special rubber mallet and pressed tightly against adjacent flooring elements. After completion of the laying process, they pass over the entire surface with a tamping machine and water the site with water. It is advisable to put a curb stone around the perimeter, which will prevent the coating from spreading.

If the site is large, then boards should be laid that will divide the "cushion" of sand into cells. So it will be possible to compact the substrate more strongly and achieve a flat surface using the same boards as the level.

Instead of tiles, you can use paving stones, clinker brick or natural stone.

lawn grate

A lawn grill or eco-parking is an option for lovers of environmentally friendly materials that blend perfectly with the natural landscape. It is a very rigid plastic grating with many small cells through which grass grows.

The polymer grid evenly distributes the weight throughout the area, so that the lawn will always look well-groomed. Benefits of eco-parking:

• durability (up to 25 years);
• frost resistance;
• drainage;
• does not require maintenance.

However, the lawn grate is relatively expensive.

Frame for a canopy made of polycarbonate - we create the basis

The drawing shows that the frame for the polycarbonate canopy is made of load-bearing metal racks with a section of 80 mm and other structural elements with a section of 40 mm.

To the previously installed embedded parts, we fasten the support posts and connect them with horizontal beams along the perimeter and along the width of the roof. Next, we assemble the rest of the structure. In our case, these are arcuate profile pipes that are attached to load-bearing beams with vertical braces.

Why the arched shape? Because leaves, dirt, snow do not accumulate on such canopies. After precipitation, no water remains on the roof. And, of course, the appearance of the arched polycarbonate canopy is quite interesting.

To fasten the frame elements, welding or hardware is used: washers, nuts and bolts. If you bought a prefabricated polycarbonate canopy, then there will already be holes in the racks and pipes of the crate. Otherwise, you will have to make them with a drill.

Installation of a polycarbonate canopy - installation of sheets

The quality of the installation of a polycarbonate canopy depends on its service life and the overall reliability of the structure. Installation of panels is not very difficult and requires only basic building skills. You will need the simplest tools:

• a circular saw.
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• construction knife.

In order not to damage the polycarbonate sheets, cutting is carried out in a protective film. With a panel thickness of up to 8 mm, a construction "clerical" knife is used. In other cases, you can use a circular saw. To avoid damage to the material, cutting discs with fine and unset teeth should be used.

Protective polycarbonate film
The sheet is mounted with a protective side from ultraviolet to the sun. Usually, it is covered with a special film, on which a drawing with installation instructions is applied. After the canopy is covered with polycarbonate, the entire protective film is removed from the panels.

Video: how to properly fix polycarbonate

In the case of an arched structure, like ours, the sheet can only be bent along the channel line. Fastening to the frame is carried out with stainless bolts or self-tapping screws with a pitch of 30-40 cm. For reliable fixation of the panel, special thermal washers for cellular polycarbonate with a diameter of 30 mm are used. They have a silicone base, thanks to which they perfectly seal the connection.

Considering thermal expansion plastic, at the attachment point, a hole is drilled with a diameter exceeding the dimensions of the thermal washer or self-tapping screw by 2-3 mm. In order not to damage the material, holes should be drilled between the stiffeners. Then there is a direct fixation of the sheet to the frame. It is important not to pinch the hardware, otherwise, the polycarbonate may burst.

Between themselves, the sheets are fixed with an aluminum or plastic H-shaped profile standard size(usually 6 meters). Before starting the connection, a protective film of 50 mm is removed from the ends of the sheet. Then the edge of the panel is inserted into the profile by at least 20 mm, and it is imperative to leave a gap of about 5 mm, since the plastic tends to narrow and expand under the influence of temperature.

The open ends of the panels must be sealed with aluminum tape - solid on top and perforated on the bottom. The solid tape serves to protect the honeycombs from the penetration of moisture, dirt and insects, and the perforated one prevents the penetration of dust and helps to remove condensate.

For more better protection, the joints can be treated with a special sealant that does not contain acrylic.

Following these rules, you can easily make a polycarbonate canopy over the porch with your own hands, and without serious building experience.

Video: do-it-yourself polycarbonate canopy

The video clip shows the process of assembling a canopy with a polycarbonate coating.

Storage and care of polycarbonate

Structures made of polymer plastics are easy to maintain and maintain. For example, to clean a polycarbonate canopy for a summer residence , it is enough to wash it with plain water, even without using any detergents. You can use a sponge or soft cloth. In no case should aggressive cleaning solutions containing alkalis, aldehydes, salts, isopropanol, methanol and others be used. Do not use sharp objects to avoid damage to the UV protection layer.

Polycarbonate storage
The process has a number of features that must be taken into account. Sheets should only be placed vertically. Do not remove the protective film, so as not to damage the surface. It is also worth limiting direct sunlight and rain. During transportation, strong mechanical influences should be avoided.

Conclusion

With the development of science, more and more materials with unique operational properties appear. Synthetic substances have an indisputable advantage over natural ones:

• cheap;
• have a pleasant appearance;
• durable and unpretentious;

In addition, they are made in accordance with high environmental standards.

Polycarbonate is an excellent replacement for metal or wood. It is strong, reliable, withstands any load well, protects against ultraviolet radiation, is flexible and plastic, and also has excellent anti-corrosion properties. Cellular polycarbonate can be used as a heat-insulating material, and the abundance of colors and plasticity allows you to realize the most daring design ideas.