Do-it-yourself basement repair technology at home. Plinth repair: purpose, causes of destruction, necessary accessories and materials, installation of a blind area Repair of the supporting structure of a log bath

How is the repair of the basement of an apartment building carried out? Foundation plinth repair

Do-it-yourself repair of the basement of a brick house

When considering a house, it is often perceived as a whole, losing sight of seemingly insignificant details. After all, a couple of cracks or a few crumbling bricks on a basement 0.5 m high do not play any significant role, and, nevertheless, even defects that are not conspicuous on it will subsequently lead to a violation of the integrity of the entire structure. Therefore, the repair of the basement of a brick house (actually the basement of any house) should not be taken as additional cosmetic measures during the repair of the building, but as full-fledged work aimed at protecting housing from destruction.

Basement as a building element

The plinth is perceived simply as the lower part of the wall, which has a purely aesthetic value. However, it is more correct to consider it as a structural element that is part of the outer wall, and in some cases as the last protective line of the foundation and the entire building.

Plinth - the lowest elevated part of a building or part of it (for example, columns, racks). It can be part of a foundation that rises above the ground, part of a foundation wall, or the outer part of a basement. It performs several functions:

  • structural - is a reinforced part of the building on which its weight rests;
  • decorative - creates an edge on the wall (can be recessed, protruding or flush), emphasizing the features of the house;
  • protective - protects the walls of the house from the destructive effects of atmospheric phenomena and mechanical damage.

The plinth should have a sufficient height, at least 30-50 cm, too low / narrow (less than 20 cm) will not fulfill its protective functions, and as a decor detail it will be rather doubtful.

The lower edge of the plinth is installed at a height of at least 10 cm above ground level, which allows you to create a slope from the wall of the house. This facilitates the runoff of rainwater, and reduces the impact of moisture on the foundation and walls.

Reasons for the destruction of the base

The signs indicating the beginning of the destruction of the basement include the formation of cracks, the appearance of a fungus, peeling of plaster, fallen off tiles. All this points to mistakes made at the stage of design, construction or operation of the building and the need to start repairing the basement. There are several reasons for the destruction:

  1. Shrinkage of the house - may be due to the type of soil, technological errors in the manufacture of the foundation, inconsistency in the design of the foundation and the weight of the building.
  2. Impact of groundwater - during the design, the level of groundwater occurrence was not determined or was ignored, the waterproofing was not performed at the proper level and, as a result, the building was subjected to flooding. This will lead to the gradual destruction of the foundation, the basement and the entire building.
  3. Atmospheric phenomena (rain, snow) - as a rule, have a detrimental effect if the blind area was performed incorrectly, of poor quality.
  4. Biological corrosion, or rather microbiological, is due to the development of various types of microorganisms on the surface of building materials, which include algae (causing green plaque), mold fungus (gray-black plaque) or lichens arising from symbiotic hyperplasia of the fungus and algae (green-black plaque). This phenomenon not only worsens the aesthetics of the plinth, but also extends to the facade, and after a while leads to mechanical damage.

The impact of some of the above factors can be avoided if you consult with specialists when designing a house.

Do-it-yourself basement repair

With some skill and skills in construction, you can repair the basement of the house with your own hands. Work is carried out in a certain sequence. First of all, you should choose the time. The best will be the end of spring or the beginning of summer, when the earth has dried up, and the weather has settled, and warm days prevail.

Then you should clean the surface, and assess the damage. To do this, cover the base and blind area with a broom and carefully inspect the surface. At the same time, you can tap it, “thumping” places are to be removed. You should also remove the falling off parts, and walk with a metal brush to remove the exfoliated fragments of the structure.

If a large part of the basement needs restoration, then instead of repairing it, it is better to equip a new one.

The blind area should be carefully considered, if it is badly damaged around the entire building, has peeled off the foundation, then it should be completely replaced. The old blind area is removed, cleaned and equipped with a trench with a depth of forty centimeters, then a layer of sand and gravel of 20 cm is poured and rammed. A geotextile is spread over this layer and sprinkled on top with a layer of sand. After that, holes are drilled in the foundation (every 50 cm), into which reinforcement is hammered. A reinforcing mesh is attached to it. Formwork is installed and concrete is poured.

After the concrete has hardened, you can begin to repair the basement. If you want to completely redo the base, then around the perimeter of the building you will need to fix the reinforcing mesh. Holes are drilled in the wall for the reinforcement pins, in one or two rows, depending on the given height, into which reinforcement rods are driven in, so long and to such a depth that the mesh mounted on them is in the body of the base. Then the surface is carefully primed with a deep penetration primer (twice), after which the formwork is installed. As a formwork, it is best to use laminated, moisture-resistant plywood. After that, concrete is poured into the formwork to evenly distribute and compact it, you can use a reinforcement bar. Formwork can be dismantled after a week.

If the thickness of the planned layer does not allow for reinforcement, formwork installation, and subsequent concrete pouring, then the basement can be repaired by plastering it. On the wall, with the help of dowels, an exhaust mesh is attached, on top of which, for the convenience of work, plaster beacons are installed. Then the surface is primed twice and plaster is applied to it. A cement plaster mortar is used, which is applied in the same way as with ordinary plastering of walls.

In the case when it is possible to get by with the repair of individual sections, the order of work is slightly different. Areas that need restoration are thoroughly cleaned and primed. Then, an exhaust mesh is attached directly to them with dowels, so that it does not protrude from the recess formed at the site of the repaired area. After that, the surface is again treated with soil and leveled with a layer of plaster. To make it more convenient to apply plaster, you can use plaster beacons, and in small areas, you can use undamaged areas of the base as a guide.

To make the surface homogeneous, after grouting the plaster, you can walk along the joints with a hard sponge dipped in water.

Restoration and strengthening of the foundation can be seen in this video:

Plinth protection

After the plinth is repaired, it is advisable to think about protecting it in the future. Despite the fact that the work on its repair is not extremely difficult, it is still a dubious pleasure to do its restoration every year. There are several options for protecting the basement and, as a result, the foundation - from budget to quite expensive.

Bituminous mastic - you can buy ready-made or cook it yourself. The resin is mixed with diesel fuel and heated over a fire. Then this mixture is covered with a completely dried plinth. The option is cheap, but not practical - the coating will be easily soiled, and over time, a variety of garbage will stick to it and you can forget about the attractive appearance of the house.

Mosaic plaster is the best option. Consists of small pebbles and adhesive material based on various resins. It has frost resistance, vapor permeability and high resistance to mechanical damage.

Natural facing materials - mainly granite, sandstone, slate, travertine are used. The option is expensive, but the most attractive in terms of aesthetics. In addition, if the facing work is done by professionals and in high quality, then the plinth will be provided with very good protection due to this.

Artificial facing materials - perhaps the most common option. Clinker or concrete tiles at a relatively low price have high protective qualities and have an attractive appearance.

It is best to take care of the safety of the basement of the house at the design stage, but if due to some circumstances this was not enough, and it needs restoration, then there is nothing to worry about. Repairing the basement of a house with your own hands is a completely doable task.

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kakfundament.ru

Plinth repair - step by step instructions

The basement of the building is exposed to the aggressive influence of many factors. It is more often than other areas in need of repair. You can't get stuck with her. After all, the destruction of the basement reduces the durability of the entire structure.


So that damage to the plaster does not lead to the growth of mold and does not allow moisture to destroy the wall, you need to correct the situation and repair the basement of the building in a timely manner. As a rule, it consists in the restoration of seams, new plastering of hotel areas. Sometimes when repairing the basement of a brick house, you have to change individual bricks.

Step-by-step instruction

First, the lower part of the wall is released from contact with the ground. To do this, use a shovel.


Then all plaster fragments that do not adhere well are removed, you must try not to miss voids, they can be detected by tapping. All loose plaster is beaten off with a hammer or chisel.



Then the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Use a wire brush to thoroughly remove all plaster residue. How to perform this work, you can see in the photo or video.


All surfaces that need to be protected from plaster, such as window frames, must be covered with masking tape. It will protect important areas from pollution.


The detected defects in the masonry are moistened before repairing the lining of the brick basement. This is necessary to ensure better contact of the plaster mixture with the surface.


To fill the existing voids, you should pick up bricks of the appropriate size. You can cut fragments of the desired size from aerated concrete blocks.


The next step in repairing the basement with your own hands is to fill the voids with prepared bricks and fix them with masonry mortar.


Before plastering the surface, it must be thoroughly moistened. To do this, you can take a bucket and a brush, but it is easier and faster to wet the wall with water from a hose.


Then prepare a solution (waterproofing sludge) for waterproofing. The mixture is diluted with clean water.


The solution is applied to the restored areas in 2 passes. First, a thin layer of 1 - 2 mm, when the first layer begins to set, apply a second layer of 3 mm. In this case, you can use a brush or a wide spatula.



The applied layers should stand for a day. You can continue working the next day.

Then a mortar for plaster is prepared.


Again perform 2-layer application. First, a layer of 10 mm is applied. The plaster is rubbed with force over the surface, moving the spatula in a semicircle.


In order for the walls to be smooth in the end, it is advisable to use plaster strips, during the installation of which a level should be applied. These planks come in several varieties. In this case, they are made of wood.


The next layer of plaster is applied with a thickness of 15 - 20 mm.



The plaster is carefully applied over the entire surface, it is desirable to fill the entire surface with it up to the foundation. Then it will be possible to talk about the complete and high-quality repair of the basement plaster.



The base point for removing excess mortar will be not only plaster strips, but also an intact cladding layer, as in the photo.

When the surface dries, it is leveled with a plaster trowel.


To beautifully decorate the corner, plaster strips are used. By attaching the plank to the appropriate corner, you can align the end of the wall. Then the bar is removed.



Practical advice! To make a homogeneous transition from old plaster to new in structure, you can process the joints with foam plastic.


The last stage of repairing the basement of a private house is to treat surfaces in contact with the ground. To do this, you can use waterproofing slurry or bituminous mastic.


Do-it-yourself basement repair is easy to do. As a result, you can breathe new life into the old structure.


kvartira.mirtesen.ru

How to repair the basement of a building with your own hands

It can be said with full confidence that it is the basement of any building that is exposed to the most aggressive effects of a number of factors. This causes it to wear out quickly and require repair. Otherwise, the entire building is at risk.

Timely repairs help to avoid the spread of mold, and prevent the destruction of walls under the influence of high levels of humidity. In some cases, it may even be necessary to replace individual bricks, which must be taken into account.

Preparatory stage

When starting to repair the basement with your own hands, you first need to remove the ground in contact with the bottom of the wall with a shovel. After that, it is required to remove the old plaster, which does not hold well enough. It is also important not to miss the voids that have arisen. A hammer and a chisel are perfect for solving these problems. With the help of such tools, it will be possible to get rid of old material with a light tap.

Next, you need to clean the wall of dirt, dust and minor plaster residues that have not been removed after previous work. This is best done with a special brush with a fairly hard wire pile. You can buy such a tool at any hardware store.

In order to protect window frames or door slopes from damage, it is recommended to pre-paste them with masking tape.

Filling the voids

Before starting active work, it is required to thoroughly moisten all detected damage with ordinary water. Thanks to this, the plaster will adhere much better to the surface.

Aerated concrete blocks are great for filling voids. This material is lightweight, durable and reliable. In addition, it is quite easy to cut bricks of the required size from it.

Prepared blanks will need to be installed in voids. You can fix them with masonry mortar. The prepared surface is again wetted with water. To do this, it is enough to water the wall simply from a hose.

Plaster work

A special waterproofing solution will help to ensure the restored basement proper performance. For its preparation, it is required to dilute the prepared dry mixture with ordinary water.

The solution is applied to the wall twice. The first layer should be fairly thin. And after it dries, you can start applying the second. The optimal thickness is 3 mm. For this purpose, a brush or a wide spatula is perfect. In order for this material to dry completely, you need to leave it for one day.

The next day you can do plastering work. For this, a special composition is also suitable. In this case, two-layer application is again used. The width of the first of them is about 10 mm. The finished material is applied to the walls with active circular movements with a spatula.

To make the finished surface really even, it is best to use special plaster strips and a level. Such a simple set will make the base perfect.

The second layer of plaster can reach a thickness of 20 mm. After applying it, excess material will need to be removed using one of the strips. And in order for the material to dry well, you should leave it for at least a couple of days.

How to finish the plinth

You can get rid of minor defects with a plaster trowel. And you can give an attractive appearance to the corner not only through the use of planks, but also through a special corner spatula. It has a specific shape, which makes the process of performing work simple and comfortable.

The last stage is the processing of that part of the base that will be in contact with the ground. It must be highly resistant to wear. That is why it is recommended to apply products such as bituminous mastic or waterproofing sludge to the wall.

On this do-it-yourself basement repair can be considered complete. As a result of such simple manipulations, you will be able to restore its attractiveness and reliability.

Video "How to repair the base"

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Repair of the basement of a brick house - causes and sequence of work

Good afternoon. After the winter, around the beginning of May, I ran into the problem of destroying the basement of a house in a summer cottage. In some places, cracks up to 2-3 cm deep were found. Somewhere the outer surface of concrete has partially or completely collapsed. The house was built over 5 years ago. The main material for building a house is foam block and silicate brick. The type of foundation is tape. When constructing the foundation, waterproofing and a soft blind area were performed. Tell me, what is the reason for such serious collapses of the basement, because last year everything was in order? What methods and approaches can be used to restore the damaged surface? How to repair the basement of a brick house without contacting construction companies?

Hello. With the onset of spring, the described problem occurs especially often. In your case, what you should pay close attention to is the life of the building and the severity of the problems that arise.

That is, damage and flaws caused by external factors that arise without your participation began to appear as early as 5 years after the building was put into operation. This is a short period. From this we can conclude that some mistakes may have been made or some nuances were not taken into account during the construction of the building.

Additionally, I would like to know the type of base. This does not play a particularly big role, but it may make some adjustments for its repair. We will assume that the basement structure is protruding or is in the same plane with the load-bearing wall. We do not take into account the falling base, since it is built quite rarely, although it is a more reliable solution.


The main types of basement structures in the construction of private and country houses

The main causes and possible problems of damage to the basement of the building include the following points:

  • Structural shrinkage is a natural process that occurs and depends on the type of foundation, construction and weight of the building. The average shrinkage period is 1-1.5 years. With heaving and soft types of soil, the process can proceed for 1.5-2 years. The visibility of shrinkage is most pronounced in brick and private houses made of heavy materials;
  • Soil Type - Heaving and clayey types of soil used as a base for building a house may require time to compact and settle. Sandy soil is characterized by a fairly rapid settlement, which largely depends on the size of the grains of sand and the level of groundwater. The sedimentation of clay soil proceeds somewhat more slowly, due to the high density of the soil;
  • High groundwater level - the level of occurrence is determined at the design stage of the building. Partially affects the type of foundation, the depth of the bearing base and additional insulation work. Ignoring the level of occurrence can lead to a decrease in the life of the foundation, flooding and general damage to the bearing elements;
  • Poor-quality blind area - non-compliance with the technology of the device can lead to flooding of the basement of the house, damage to the foundation and basement. The type of construction is selected based on the occurrence of groundwater, the type of soil and the bearing base;
  • Communication problems - damage and leakage of the central water supply with further enrichment of the soil with moisture can cause the destruction of the supporting base, flooding of the basement and basement;
  • Non-compliance with technology - work without building codes and regulations is the main cause of most problems and damage. The absence of such construction works as waterproofing the basement of the building and the foundation quickly leads to the formation of cracks, chips and the general destruction of these elements.

Repair of the basement for private and country houses should be carried out only after the reasons for the damage have been clarified and eliminated. Otherwise, by repairing and restoring the destroyed areas, the problem will not disappear, which will lead to the formation of new, even more serious flaws.

Finding out the reasons for the formation of deformations


Damage can be of a different nature - from simple cracks to complete collapse of the structure.

Based on the fact that in your case, during the construction of a private house, the foundation was isolated and no flooding of the basement and basement was noticed, we can conclude that damage to the basement of the building was caused by moisture penetration through the soft blind area.

This type of adjacent construction does not meet all requirements and provides a rather low level of protection. In most cases, a soft look is constructed as a decorative element with limited protective functions.

Most likely, you thought that the waterproofing of the base was sufficient to protect the foundation from moisture. But in practice it turned out a little differently - the blind area, which should prevent and remove moisture from the bearing basement, did not cope with the assigned task.

Perhaps the problem is more pronounced, but without examining the structure and additional information it is difficult to draw a conclusion based only on the facts received from you. Therefore, it is recommended to conduct an independent audit and exclude possible causes.

Shrinkage of the building can be completely excluded, since the construction of the house was completed more than 3-5 years ago. The type of foundation soil was taken into account when designing the building, which excludes the reason for the foundation being too low.


Strengthening an existing structure is the most effective way to repair and restore

The level of groundwater can be checked independently. The easiest way is to check the depth of water in existing wells on the site or adjacent territory. With sufficient depth (more than 15 meters), it is possible to completely exclude the fact of constant penetration of moisture through the soil.

For additional verification, you will need to dig a small trench to the depth of the foundation and monitor the accumulation of water. If after 3-5 days the accumulation of water does not occur, then groundwater does not wash away the foundation and the cause of destruction is different.

The accumulation of even a small amount of water may indicate that the carrier base is periodically or constantly exposed to moisture, which, rising through the soil, is absorbed into the surface of the plinth, thereby reducing its service life, leading to damage.

In your case, without discovering any additional reasons, the lack of a reliable hydro-barrier in the form of a high-quality blind area led to the fact that the plinth was exposed to moisture for 5 years. Hence the formation of cracks and the collapse of the outer coating.

Repair technology

Repair and restoration of damaged areas on the surface of the basement can be performed using various technologies. But regardless of the method of repair, the protection of the basement of the house should begin with the construction of the blind area.

The protective blind area should have several underlying layers based on fine-grained sand and gravel. As an outer layer, it is desirable to use concrete, which is reinforced with a metal mesh.

The most effective technology for repairing and strengthening the basement of private houses is pouring or applying concrete mortar over a reinforcing structure made of thick metal mesh, steel pipes or fittings.

To perform the work, you will need to purchase a welded mesh with cells of 10 × 10 mm and a wire thickness of at least 5 mm. When using reinforcement, you can focus on similar parameters and use material with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The knitting of the material can be done with steel wire 4 mm thick.


The main materials for the frame used in the restoration of the old plinth

In places where the damage is not severe, and structural reinforcement is not required, the old surface will be reinforced with a conventional all-metal expanded metal mesh up to 1 mm thick.

As a tool, you will need to use a hammer, chisel, sledgehammer, puncher, etc. Mixing the solution is best done with a concrete mixer. This will be reflected in the quality of the mixture for the better. The proportions of the mortar are 1 part of M500-600 cement to 3 parts of fine-grained sand.

For formwork, you can use old plywood or metal sheets, wooden boards hammered into shields or any other building materials.

Do-it-yourself repair work can be performed using the following technology:


Dismantling of the formwork is carried out after a few days and depends on the average daily air temperature. At a temperature of 15-20 ° C - 4-5 days, at 10-15 ° C - 6-7 days. In general cases, after repairing the plinth surface, we recommend that you wait at least a week and only then remove the formwork.

For partial repairs, the execution technology has a slightly different sequence. This method can be used both for the restoration of the surface of apartment buildings, and for the repair of household buildings.

It will be necessary to clean, clean and prime the surface in one layer. Next, the exhaust mesh is stuffed and re-primed in one or two layers. As a guide for leveling, you can use a stretched cord or plaster beacons that are fixed to the plaster. The setting step must be smaller than the mixture leveling tool.

After leveling, after about 4-8 hours, the surface is moistened and rubbed with a felt grater. For best drying, the plinth is covered with a matte material that protects from direct sunlight and makes the drying process more natural.

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otdelkaexp.ru

Do-it-yourself basement repair and its further cladding

When it comes time to repair the basement of a suburban building, many homeowners start to panic because of this. But there is no need to exaggerate, because the repair of the basement, and even its further cladding, is done by hand without much difficulty.


Carrying out repair work on the basement should be taken very seriously, because it is this structural element of any structure that performs such a task as protecting the foundation from moisture penetration, which leads to its destruction. If the plinth is missing or in a deplorable state, then the foundation of the building and its lower masonry will certainly begin to fall apart, and this will lead not only to increased humidity inside the room, but also to a deterioration in the quality of floors, walls, etc. Under such circumstances, the formation of cracks and serious chips, rotting of floors and gradual collapse of walls is possible.

Based on this, it is simply necessary to carry out timely repairs to the basement of a country house.

If your plinth has been in disrepair for several years, don't worry, following the instructions below will restore it in just a couple of days.

At the beginning of the repair work

The most suitable period for carrying out such work is a dry and warm season, but preferably without much heat. As a rule, this is the first half of summer, of course, it all depends on which region your suburban area is located in. Experts recommend starting to repair the basement already in early spring, immediately after it dries up due to the snow melting due to the fresh wind. For example, you can start repair work at the end of May, then it will not be hot for you, and the temperature for lining the basement will be acceptable.

But before proceeding with the repair of the basement, it is necessary to prepare the material:

  • fittings;
  • metal grid;
  • gravel;
  • boards for the construction of formwork;
  • cement;
  • sand;
  • waterproofing material;
  • Rabitz;
  • primer.

Tool:

  • a hammer;
  • nails;
  • shovel;
  • welding machine;
  • a container for preparing a solution;
  • trowel and spatula;
  • brush;
  • dowel.

It is strictly forbidden to carry out repairs in cold or rainy weather, as well as at elevated temperatures, because in order to have a high-quality adhesion of the solution to the base material and its uniform drying, a stable temperature is needed.

Before proceeding with the repair work, it is necessary to prepare the place for their implementation. To do this, carefully remove the exfoliated parts of the basement (collapsed brick), remove all debris. Then it is necessary to inspect the blind area, because it plays a significant role not only in protecting the basement of the foundation, but also in the appearance of the entire structure.

If, after examining the blind area, you do not find any defects on it, then you can simply carry out a small cosmetic repair, otherwise you will have to refill the blind area.

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Construction of a new blind area

The blind area should be about 4-6 cm above ground level, and the depth should be at least 20 cm. The width can be different, so determine its value yourself.

So, we dig out a place for the construction of a blind area and clean the foundation of the house. When creating a blind area, it is very important to know that it should have a slight slope from the building, this is done so that water can freely leave its foundation.

After preparing the site, it is necessary to perform the maximum binding to the foundation by nailing reinforcement to it. Then we weld a metal mesh to the mounted fittings using a welding machine. The base for pouring the blind area must be made with high quality.

After the reinforcement and the mesh are ready for pouring, it is necessary to make a pillow of gravel at least 15 cm thick. We set the formwork to the height of the blind area, after which we fill everything with cement mortar.

It should be noted that before filling the blind area, it is necessary to apply a layer of waterproofing material to the foundation. For this purpose, as a rule, hot bitumen is used. If you want to create a stronger blind area, you can lay a couple of layers of metal mesh and fill it with concrete.

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Direct basement repair

After the old basement is upholstered and all impurities are removed from it, the blind area is built in a new way, which fits snugly against the foundation, you can proceed directly to the repair of the basement.

First of all, over the entire surface of the base, you need to fill a steel reinforcing mesh, in which there is a small mesh. It is allowed to use a regular chain-link mesh for this purpose. It is recommended that when installing the mesh, immediately shape it, based on the fact that it will be held by a layer of mortar. To do this, with the help of dowels, we correct the even position of the grid vertically.

When repairing the basement, one should not forget about priming its surface. You can apply a primer directly through the reinforcing mesh so that it gets on it and on the rough surface. In the absence of funds for the purchase of a primer mixture, it is imperative to moisten the surface well before applying the solution.

After the primer dries, using a liquid mortar, we tightly throw it on the grid so that the cement mortar penetrates through the grid and fills all the cavities on the surface of the base. To do this, you do not need to rush, on the contrary, you should do everything very carefully, and if necessary, press the mixture into the mesh, thus filling all the cavities and cavities. And in this order, we carry out the repair of the base along the entire perimeter, while the thickness of the mortar layer should be such that the reinforcing mesh will be slightly visible through it.

It is recommended to wait a little time for the mortar layer to harden, and then you can proceed to the final finishing of the basement. Depending on the availability of funds and your choice, various materials can be used to carry out further work on the repair of the plinth. This may be further plastering with another layer of cement mortar, or you can use decorative plaster or other finishing materials for this.

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An easy way to finish the plinth

So, the repair of the basement of a panel or brick structure is completed, now we are putting in order its front part. You can protect the base from the harmful effects of atmospheric phenomena using bitumen or other special mixtures, but the simplest and most reliable way is the "old-fashioned" method.

In an old waste container, we heat the resin mixed with diesel fuel on a fire. Heat this mixture slowly over low heat. By slowly stirring, bring the mixture to the consistency of jelly, so you will prepare a quality finishing solution, which was used everywhere in the old days. Using a large, round brush, apply the mixture in a thick layer evenly to the surface of the plinth.

There is another one of the cheapest and easiest ways to finish the basement - applying plaster with its further coloring. The plastered surface can be painted in any color. To date, the application of plaster with imitation of different surfaces is very common. The ability to experiment with dyes added directly to the plaster allows you to achieve quite interesting options for decorating the surface of your basement.

The essential and only drawback of this finishing method is the short service life of the resulting coating. Due to negative atmospheric influences and a certain load on the foundation itself, after a few years you will need to perform the first cosmetic repair.

Each of the buildings is one system in which all elements are connected, and each of the elements performs its important function. With the destruction and breakage of one element, the rest begin to collapse.

The most vulnerable part of the constructed building is the basement and blind area. Before you learn how to repair the blind area, you should find out what it is.

Why do you need a plinth and a blind area

The basement is one of the important parts of the constructed building; it performs an important function - heat-insulating. And since it is located on the outside of the building, it is constantly affected by the environment, temperature changes, moisture, and it is most susceptible to deformation and destruction. And if there is a deformation of the basement and blind areas, then the whole building begins to collapse. How to repair a blind area? It is best to invite professional builders to repair the basement, then it is likely that the repair will be done on time and with high quality. But you can try to do everything yourself, with the help of useful tips.

An important function is performed by the blind area. It is located around the entire perimeter of the building, is a path that is arranged at a certain angle of inclination. This is done so that water does not flow into the foundation. Often winter frosts can destroy the blind area.

Causes of the destruction of the basement and blind area

Since the basement is located on the outside, that is, on the street, it is subjected to constant precipitation, from which it begins to collapse. The same applies to the blind area, which also tends to crack and move away from the foundation. Causes of destruction include:

  • temperature changes;
  • constant moisture in rainy weather;
  • frosts;
  • house weight;
  • non-compliance with technological standards during the construction of the basement.

The concrete pavement, which was installed around the apartment building, is also influenced by natural factors. In the occurrence of cracks, an important role is played by the apartment building itself, its weight. If the blind area is filled with weak concrete, then large loads also affect.

Plinth repair - how to do it yourself

Plinth repair involves, first of all, the removal of dampness, fungus and mold. In order to get rid of all this, you need to open the base, that is, beat off the old plaster from it, clean it completely, around the entire perimeter. Drying is a must. After drying, treat the dry surface of the basement with a special antiseptic composition or sheathe it with boards that were impregnated with an antiseptic before installation. It is also necessary to take measures to insulate the basement so that it does not freeze and moisture does not penetrate into it.


Of course, a person is able to carry out all repairs himself, especially if he has experience in construction matters. But the reasons for the destruction of the basement should be established by specialists, they will also give advice on the problems that have arisen and their solution.

To repair the plinth, it is better to wait for warm and dry weather, but so that there is no strong heat. In heat or rain, concrete dries poorly, unevenly and adheres poorly to the wall.

To repair the base, you need to have the following tools:

  • concrete mixer;
  • shovel;
  • bushhammer;
  • Master OK.

From the materials you will need:

  • sand;
  • cement;
  • metal grid.

When the damaged area is beaten off from the old plaster, dirt is removed, the base is impregnated with an antiseptic, a metal mesh can be fixed. It will greatly increase the strength of the solution that will be applied to the wall. It must be installed evenly, the mesh is fixed with dowels. Then the surface of the base should be treated with a primer. The composition of the primer should also get on the grid, this will increase the susceptibility to the solution. This step can be skipped, but then instead of priming, the base should be moistened with water.


Now you need to apply the solution to the grid. The concrete mortar must be more liquid than for ordinary plaster. The solution through the mesh should get on the wall and very tightly fill all the cracks and voids. To obtain a high-quality coating, the solution must be pressed in. From the applied solution, only the grid should be visible. The next step is to apply the finishing solution to the plinth; decorative plaster can be used instead. Plastering work during the repair of the basement is difficult, so when performing these works you need to be careful and attentive.

After the mortar on the basement of the house dries up, you should proceed to finish the basement of the house. For finishing, you should choose high-quality and durable materials that can provide surface protection, and the next repair will not have to be done soon.

Do-it-yourself blind area repair

When repairing the basement of a house, you can correct the defects that have arisen in the blind area. Repair of the blind area occurs in this way.

The blind area is set to a height of 4-7 cm. It should be above ground level. Then the damaged area should be filled with cement mortar. In order for the blind area to have strength, it is reinforced with a mesh. You can even lay multiple layers of mesh. You can also achieve an increase in strength by adding crushed stone of a fine fraction to the solution. The blind area should have an angle of inclination from the house. This must be taken into account when pouring, then water will not fall under the foundation.


It is necessary to repair the blind area when small cracks appear on the surface of the blind area. Cement mortar is used to seal such cracks. Cracks are closed in the following way. The surface of the blind area is cleaned, you can even wash it. Then a liquid cement mortar is prepared, with which the blind area is poured, the liquid solution flows into the cracks and fills them. The consistency of the solution should be 1:1 or 1:2.

If there are cracks in the middle solution, then they can be repaired like this. Cracks are enlarged with a perforator in order to repair them with high quality. Then you need to treat the cracks with a primer. After drying, they should be filled with a bitumen composition with the addition of asbestos and crushed slag. After the mixture has hardened, the blind area is poured with a thin layer of cement mortar.

If the cracks are large, then you need to make repairs like this. Cracks are cleaned of dirt and primed. You need to let the primer dry. The cracks are then filled with concrete. Remember, it is concrete, not cement mortar. Places filled with concrete should be covered with a film for about a day.

It also happens that the blind area has peeled off from the house - how to repair it in this case? The place of delamination should be thoroughly cleaned and primed, the crack should be enlarged. This is done to ensure that the seal is durable and of high quality. You can also cover the base with bituminous mastic. A large opening between the blind area and the house is poured with concrete, and if the gap is small, then it can be filled with a rare cement solution.

When asked about the blind area, how to repair and when, it can be answered that repairs are best done in the spring, while there is still no high temperature, or at the beginning of summer, when it is still cool. This should be done because, due to heat, cracks can decrease, and this will lead to the impossibility of repairing them with high quality.

Finishing the basement after repair

After the repair, you can start finishing the basement. There are different options for this. The blind area has already been repaired, and you need to start decorating the basement.

The design of the basement is not a tribute to fashion, but its protection from the effects of natural phenomena. This can be done with bitumen or mixtures, or you can use the forgotten old-fashioned method. To do this, melt the resin and diesel. Do this on low heat, stir slowly. After preparation, a high-quality solution for coating is obtained. This method has been used everywhere before. Coated with a round brush, applying a thick layer.

If it is possible to spend money on finishing the plinth, you can create a more interesting look and durable protection from exposure to the sun, wind and frost. Finishing can be done from artificial stone. To do this, you need to choose a quality adhesive mixture. You should carefully read the instructions, for different mixtures you need different additions, in the form of a primer, mesh, and, possibly, the preparation of a special layer. But it should be remembered that finishing with artificial or natural stone is an expensive undertaking, although the basement is an important part of the building, on which the long years of the existence of the house depend.


In order to repair the basement and blind areas around the house yourself, you can watch a video on a special construction site or read an article. The advice of repair specialists will certainly help to carry out everything planned, the main thing is to have enough patience and strength.


moifundament.ru

When to repair the basement in the country

It is most correct to choose a warm and dry season for such work, preferably without serious heat. It may be the middle of summer, depending on the regions, but we suggest that you repair the plinth already at the beginning of spring, as soon as it dries out after the snows in the fresh wind and the sunlight that is gaining temperature. For example, you can start the process in the middle or end of May, so that it is not too hot for you to work, and the temperature for finishing is acceptable.

It is simply impossible to do repairs in cold or rain, as well as in severe heat, because a stable temperature is necessary for high-quality adhesion of the solution to the basic materials and its uniform drying.

How to start basement repair

It will be necessary to prepare the place of repair - it is good to beat off the exfoliated parts, try to remove the debris, but do not wade deeper, knocking with a hammer further and further. After that, study the blind area, as it plays a significant role in protecting the foundation and the appearance of the building.


If the blind area is in order, it can be redecorated, but if there is practically no blind area, it will be necessary to fill in a new one.

Filling the blind area

The blind area can rise 4-7 cm above ground level, but it should go about 20-25 cm deep. You determine the width yourself, dig out a place to fill the blind area and clean the foundation of the house. It is important to remember here that the blind area should have a slope of several degrees from the house so that the water does not stagnate under the house itself.

When the place is ready, you should attach yourself to the foundation as much as possible, nail the reinforcement to it, to which the mesh should be welded. You should not be especially zealous, but the foundation of the blind area must be of high quality.


When the reinforcement for pouring is ready, it is necessary to fill in the gravel pad, install the formwork at the height of the blind area, and pour everything from above with cement mortar. But before this stage, you can also make waterproofing, which will be very appropriate. This can be standard waterproofing of the basement of the house, or classic, clay, when a layer of clay 15 cm wide is laid along the entire height of the blind area around the house and is well trampled down.

If you want to get a stronger blind area, lay several layers of a thin mesh, and also make it based on a mortar with crushed stone.

We repair the basement of a country house

The plinth is upholstered and cleaned, the blind area is flooded and fits snugly to it - it remains only to move on to our main task.

A small reinforcing metal mesh should be filled around the entire perimeter of the base. It is desirable to give it a shape, as the grid will hold the solution layer. That is, the mesh can be stuffed more evenly vertically by adjusting its position with dowels.

The next step is the primer. You can carry out the primer directly through the mesh so that the composition gets on it and on the surface itself. If a primer is not intended, simply dampen the surfaces well before applying the mortar.



After that, with a more liquid solution, we well throw a layer on the grid so that the plastering mixture penetrates through the grid and fills all the cavities along the base. To do this, you should not accelerate, on the contrary, you need to act very carefully, even pressing the solution into the grid, clogging all the cavities and cavities with it. Thus, finishing takes place around the entire perimeter, with a layer through which the mesh itself will only be visible.

It is advisable to let the layer dry a little, and then you can proceed to the final plastering. Here you can put another layer of cement mortar, or work with decorative plaster, original stone and brick laying.

Depending on your choice, there may be very different options for further processes.

Finishing the basement of the house after repair

The repair of the basement of a brick or panel house is completed, and now we need to put its appearance in order. The blind area is already there, but it also requires a basement to match itself, which we will now issue.

Inexpensive plinth finish

The plinth is ready, and now it is necessary to protect it from the harmful effects of atmospheric phenomena. This can be done with bitumen or other special mixtures, but you can always use the old-fashioned method.

You need to heat tar and diesel fuel on a fire in an old bucket. Heat slowly, over low heat, be sure to protect yourself from possible injury. By stirring slowly, you will be able to prepare a quality coating solution, which was previously used everywhere. It is necessary to use hot resin of the consistency of jelly with a large round brush, evenly applying the mixture to the plinth in a thick layer.

Modern plinth finish

If you can spend more money, create a more interesting look and effectively protect against the effects of moisture, wind, frost and sunlight, use a modern finish. Often, this is just decorative plaster with protective properties or further painting, but often craftsmen make a stone plinth or artificial stone plinth, which is in no way inferior to natural finishes.

To lay the finishing material, you will need to choose the right adhesive mixture and study the instructions for the use of materials, because many of them will need a primer, a mesh, and maybe the preparation of a special layer.

At each stage of the repair and finishing of the basement of the house in the country it is worth remembering that this is often a very important structure, on which the durability of the building largely depends.

dachadecor.ru

Step-by-step instruction

First, the lower part of the wall is released from contact with the ground. To do this, use a shovel.

Then all plaster fragments that do not adhere well are removed, you must try not to miss voids, they can be detected by tapping. All loose plaster is beaten off with a hammer or chisel.

Then the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Use a wire brush to thoroughly remove all plaster residue. How to perform this work, you can see in the photo or video.

All surfaces that need to be protected from plaster, such as window frames, must be covered with masking tape. It will protect important areas from pollution.

The detected defects in the masonry are moistened before repairing the lining of the brick basement. This is necessary to ensure better contact of the plaster mixture with the surface.

To fill the existing voids, you should pick up bricks of the appropriate size. You can cut fragments of the desired size from aerated concrete blocks.

The next step in repairing the basement with your own hands is to fill the voids with prepared bricks and fix them with masonry mortar.

Before plastering the surface, it must be thoroughly moistened. To do this, you can take a bucket and a brush, but it is easier and faster to wet the wall with water from a hose.

Then prepare a solution (waterproofing sludge) for waterproofing. The mixture is diluted with clean water.

The solution is applied to the restored areas in 2 passes. First, a thin layer of 1 - 2 mm, when the first layer begins to set, apply a second layer of 3 mm. In this case, you can use a brush or a wide spatula.

The applied layers should stand for a day. You can continue working the next day.

Then a mortar for plaster is prepared.

Again perform 2-layer application. First, a layer of 10 mm is applied. The plaster is rubbed with force over the surface, moving the spatula in a semicircle.

In order for the walls to be smooth in the end, it is advisable to use plaster strips, during the installation of which a level should be applied. These planks come in several varieties. In this case, they are made of wood.

The next layer of plaster is applied with a thickness of 15 - 20 mm.

The plaster is carefully applied over the entire surface, it is desirable to fill the entire surface with it up to the foundation. Then it will be possible to talk about the complete and high-quality repair of the basement plaster.

The base point for removing excess mortar will be not only plaster strips, but also an intact cladding layer, as in the photo.

When the surface dries, it is leveled with a plaster trowel.

To beautifully decorate the corner, plaster strips are used. By attaching the plank to the appropriate corner, you can align the end of the wall. Then the bar is removed.

The last stage of repairing the basement of a private house is to treat surfaces in contact with the ground. To do this, you can use waterproofing slurry or bituminous mastic.

Do-it-yourself basement repair is easy to do. As a result, you can breathe new life into the old structure.

Source

kvartira.mirtesen.ru

Rostislav Kiriev 07/31/2014 | 3311

The basement is an important part of any house; the state of the foundation of the structure depends on its integrity. Problems with this part of the building immediately affect the moisture content of walls, floors, ceilings. Therefore, at the first signs of destruction of the basement, it is necessary to think about repairing it.

Signs necessary repair of the basement can be:

  • cracks that have appeared in any part of the base;
  • large chips of the base;
  • destruction of part of the basement surface.

The best time for repairs is spring-early summer, because during this period of time it is quite dry and warm, therefore, the finish will dry quickly, but will not suffer from too high temperatures.

Do-it-yourself basement repair algorithm

1. Examine the plinth. Sweep it with a broom, remove all debris from it.

2. Prepare basement for repair. To do this, remove the exfoliated parts of the base (but you don’t need to hit hard with a hammer and tear off pieces that hold tightly).

3. Inspect the blind area. If it is destroyed, start the repair from it. For this:

  • prepare a place for pouring the blind area - dig a trench 20-30 cm deep;
  • connect the foundation of the building with the future blind area. To do this, attach reinforcement to the foundation, and weld a mesh or metal rods to it, laid in the base of the blind area.
  • pour gravel on top of the rods or mesh and install the formwork. The height of the formwork must be equal to the height of the blind area.
  • perform waterproofing by sealing with a layer of clay or laying a layer of bituminous, bitumen-polymer or polymer sealants. The newest material for these purposes is considered "liquid rubber".
  • fill with high grade cement mortar. Pay attention to the slope of the blind area: it should be from the house, and not vice versa, so that rain and melt water drain to the ground, and not flow directly under the foundation.

4. Attach around the perimeter of the basement small metal mesh for reinforcement. The grid should fit snugly against the surface of the building and repeat exactly all the bends of the basement. Therefore, it is more convenient to expose the grid vertically, fixing it with dowels.

5. Spend primer or wetting the surface of the plinth, and try to moisten not only the surface of the building, but also the grid.

6. Apply to the mesh slurry layer, filling all the cavities around the perimeter of the base. As a result of the work done, the contours of the grid should be visible through the solution layer.

7. Give time for drying given layer.

8. Finish the plinth with one of the following methods:

  • cover the base with a layer of cement mortar, and then apply special mixtures, for example, based on bitumen, to protect against moisture and wind (previously, the base was stained with a highly heated mixture of resin and diesel fuel for the same purpose);
  • put a layer of decorative plaster;
  • lay a natural or artificial stone on a special adhesive base.

The choice of the method of final plastering is influenced by the financial capabilities of the owner of the house. The stone finish is more durable and solid, the stone plinth fits perfectly into almost any architectural project and will give your home solidity.

diy.usadbaonline.ru

Types of basement damage and their causes


Most often, the following damage to the basement of the house occurs:

  1. destruction of the outer surface of the brickwork (peeling);
  2. cracks in the structure;
  3. subsidence of the plinth.

They are caused by many reasons:

  1. soil subsidence;
  2. foundation drawdown;
  3. low-quality building materials from which the basement was built;
  4. poor quality construction work;
  5. incorrect or destroyed waterproofing;
  6. incorrect calculation that does not take into account the current load on the structure;
  7. increase in load during operation, repair or reconstruction (for example, a second floor superstructure in a cottage).

Moreover, defects in most cases arise not for one reason, but for their combination. For example, peeling can be caused by the fact that a brick of reduced frost resistance is selected, and besides, the waterproofing has lost its properties.

Why basement damage must be repaired as soon as possible


As we have already said, all other building structures are based on the basement, the repair of which can be more expensive than even laborious work to eliminate defects in the basement.


A small subsidence of the basement can lead to the destruction of walls and ceilings, and even to the fact that the building will become unusable. Building materials do not self-repair. The usual peeling of a brick can lead to a chain of more serious consequences.

For example:

  1. Peeling (damage to the surface layers) gradually goes into depth.
  2. In the future, the destruction of the material occurs completely.
  3. The thickness (area) of the basement wall is reduced.
  4. On the remaining intact sections of the basement masonry, the load increases above their tensile strength.
  5. Cracking occurs, and then the destruction of the entire basement, and then the rest of the structures of the house.

Therefore, noticing even a minor defect, it is necessary, if possible, to identify its cause and eliminate it, and then make repairs. Now more about how to repair the basement.

Plinth drawdown

It is revealed by cracks in the array of brickwork and even by the deviation of the basement surfaces from the vertical or horizontal. Having found such a defect, you need to act as follows.

Determine if the subsidence of the base continues


The continuation of subsidence is evidenced by the constant expansion of cracks. You can determine whether it is or not in a simple way using beacons.

Making them is easy:

  1. We cut strips of paper about 2 centimeters wide and 10-15 centimeters long.
  2. With the help of strong glue, we attach them so that they seem to tighten the crack (similar to repairing with electrical tape or plaster, but the goal is different).
  3. It is advisable to write the date of the sticker on each lighthouse.
  4. After 10 days, we look to see if our tapes are intact. If integer, then shrinkage no longer occurs.

By the way, in the same way it is necessary to control the result of work to eliminate shrinkage and strengthen the foundation.

Determine if there is a drawdown of the foundation

In 90% of cases, the reason why the brick base on the strip foundation sank is the sediment of the latter. In order to make sure that only the base is to blame (this is rare), in places where there are the most cracks on the base, we expose the foundation with small pits.

Most likely, there will also be cracks. In a known way, with the help of beacons, we determine whether they have an extension.

Is it possible to carry out work to strengthen the foundation and basement if the subsidence is over?

Many recommend, after making sure that there is no more subsidence, just repair the cracks and, if necessary, carry out cosmetic repairs. However, there is no certainty that the processes that caused the subsidence (for example, a change in the groundwater horizon) will no longer be repeated. Therefore, reinforcement should be carried out in any case.


It is best to strengthen the foundation in stages, without exposing it completely, so, without supporting the outer wall of the foundation on the ground, not only parts of the foundation, but also walls can collapse.

  • Opening the foundation of the building. We dig a trench not around the entire perimeter of the building, but in small sections of 3-4 meters with the same gaps between them.

Advice. Be extremely careful when excavating to great depths. Make slopes of at least 30 degrees or secure the walls of the trench with shields.

  • Most likely, cracks will also be visible in the exposed foundation.. We seal them with cement-sand mortar.
  • It would be optimal to additionally tighten the foundation with steel tires at intervals of 0.5-1 meter in height. Therefore, we lay their parts in our pits, in order to then connect them by welding or bolts.
  • After we prepare connections to connect the old fill with the new one. To do this, we drill holes in a checkerboard pattern spaced from each other by a distance of 0.7-1.2 meters. We glue either standard metal ties into them, or install self-expanding anchors.

  • We process the walls of the existing foundation with a hydrophobic composition, the price for it is low, and the effectiveness of waterproofing increases significantly.

  • We carry out waterproofing of the existing foundation. It is best to paste over it with waterproofing material. If the old waterproofing is in a satisfactory condition, we still carry out additional coating, since by installing tires and connections, we damaged its tightness.
  • Preparing a pillow of sand and gravel for pouring. We seal it carefully.
  • We install the formwork. To strengthen the foundation, as a rule, the thickness of an additional layer of reinforced concrete of 30-40 centimeters is enough. For formwork, it is best to use inventory boards, they will speed up the work.
  • Installing the reinforcing mesh. You can weld it, but the easiest way is to knit. To maintain the protective layer of concrete, we put clamps.

At the same time, we do not forget that we will not concrete the entire foundation, but sections, therefore, at the edges we leave the release of rods of 15-20 centimeters, with which we will connect the reinforcement of the grips poured into the second stage. We also provide frame connections with ties previously reinforced in the existing base.

  • We fill the areas strengthening the foundation. It is necessary to use concrete not standard for foundations B 12.5, but a higher class. Be sure to compact with deep vibrators.
  • After the concrete has hardened, remove the formwork.
  • The new foundation wall also needs to be waterproofed.
  • After waterproofing, we carry out backfilling.

After completing the first stage, you can proceed to the second:

  1. We expose the remaining sections of the foundation.
  2. In the same way, we carry out the sealing of cracks.
  3. We install the missing sections of tires to tighten the foundation. We make them tighten
  4. We carry out work on the installation of connections and waterproofing.
  5. We install the formwork so that the shields rest on the already finished sections.
  6. We install the reinforcement cage. We connect its rods with the outlets of the casting rods of the first stage.
  7. We pour concrete, after it hardens, remove the formwork, waterproof and sprinkle.
  8. The second stage is over, we have a ready fortified foundation.

To avoid interruptions in work, it is better to use the following principle:

  1. We immediately fill in a number of sections of the first stage on one side of the building.
  2. Let's go to the opposite side. While we work there, the concrete will harden.
  3. Having finished the first stage on the opposite side, we again go to the area where we started, and there we fill in the remaining sections of the wall.

After we have poured the reinforcing layer along its horizontal surface, it is necessary to lay the waterproofing layer again, which will then be covered with a blind area.

Variant of using screw piles


It is possible to speed up and simplify the work on strengthening the foundation with its relatively small subsidence using screw piles. They differ from ordinary metal ones in that they have on the end of the blade deepened into the ground in the form of an Archimedes screw.

Such piles are not driven into the ground, but are screwed in like a corkscrew. Moreover, with the small size of the foundation and the piles themselves, they can be installed without the use of special equipment, manually.

In addition, when installing piles, the soil around the foundation is not loosened, but rather compacted, which reduces the settlement of the existing structure.


But we note this method can be used only with a small subsidence, since it does not eliminate the cracks in the existing foundation and does not restore its waterproofing.

Work to strengthen the foundation in this way is carried out as follows:

  1. We screw in a series of piles along the perimeter of the old foundation. The step of their installation depends on the design and section, installation depth. Usually the manufacturer gives recommendations upon delivery.
  2. After the piles are screwed in, a trench about half a meter deep is selected along the existing foundation. Its width is approximately equal to twice the distance from the pile installation line to the perimeter of the foundation.
  3. The piles are connected to each other by a metal beam, often an I-section, by welding.
  4. If the piles are hollow, then their internal volume is filled with concrete.
  5. As in the first case, but only for the exposed part of the foundation, work is underway to seal cracks, repair waterproofing and install ties.
  6. A reinforcing cage is laid in the trench. It is not necessary to make it frequent, since the beam connecting the piles takes the main load. You can refuse reinforcement at all if you use fiber-reinforced concrete.
  7. The trench is filled with concrete. Then we lay the waterproofing and make a blind area.

After the foundation has been strengthened, it's time to start rebuilding the basement itself.

Plinth repair with replacement of damaged masonry


If the masonry is badly damaged, for example, to a depth of more than a brick, a complete rework of the base would be ideal. If we were talking about wooden houses, then such work is done there quite often.

It includes the following operations:


  1. part of the basement masonry is removed for the installation of supports;
  2. supports are installed under the frame, resting directly on the foundation and taking on the entire weight of the structure of the house, which previously carried the base;
  3. the basement brick is completely removed and it is re-layed;
  4. last of all, the sections where the supports stood are laid.

Sometimes in this way they solve not only the question of how to level the basement with a brick, but also increase the height by raising the house on jacks.

For a brick building, this technology is difficult to apply for two reasons:

  1. the weight of a brick structure is much greater than a wooden one;
  2. brickwork requires support over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base, the removal of even a small part of the base leads to the formation of cracks.

But still, this technology is real, it is used when moving a building from place to place. It is difficult to do this with your own hands, but it is possible, although it requires large material costs.

In this case, it is desirable that the following conditions are met:

  1. the construction of the house should not be very heavy, even a two-story cottage can not be held on supports;
  2. the wall, if possible, should be monolithic, and not consist of two layers separated by an air chamber.

For acquaintance we will give the stages of work, although few people use this technology. Everything is very similar to making openings in a blank wall. For work, we need the following auxiliary materials

  1. Strong steel corner with a shelf width equal to half the thickness of the wall;
  2. Racks in length approximately equal to the height of the base;
  3. Sealant for building structures.

The work instructions are as follows:

  • We choose a site no more than 1-2 meters long. We immediately prepare a square of this length.
  • At the junction between the wall and the plinth, we begin to cut a groove. In this case, the cutter must be of such a diameter that it can go deep by half the thickness of the wall.
  • Simultaneously with cutting, we begin to introduce a square into the groove. That is, having cut the section so that the gas cutter does not interfere with us, we insert one edge of the square at an angle to the wall. Then, continuing to cut, we bring its opposite edge closer, introducing more and more new sections into the cut space. This is done in order to prevent the wall from sagging down even by the thickness of the cut, this will inevitably lead to the formation of a crack.
  • Having entered the square into the groove, we fasten it to the racks, you can strengthen the stops on the square or simply use welding. Before this, the racks must be extremely securely installed on the base in order to exclude their vertical displacement.
  • Having thus suspended a part of the base on one side, we carry out a similar operation on the opposite side. Most likely, for this you will have to disassemble the floor.
  • Now we already have a part of the wall hanging, and the basement area under it is not loaded. We parse it.
  • Having disassembled, we begin to make a new one. I think you know how to lay out a brick base - the techniques are the same as for walls. At the same time, do not forget about the waterproofing between the foundation and the brick. At the edges of the site, we leave the protruding parts of the brick for dressing with the masonry of the next section.
  • Having made the masonry and allowing the mortar to gain strength, we remove the racks.

Now our task is even more difficult - to remove the square, fill the seam with mortar without subsidence of the higher structures. This should be done slowly, perhaps over several days. To fill the seam, you need to use fast-hardening cement.

  • In the same way as introduced, we begin to remove the square. This will require decent effort, as it is clamped by the weight of the wall. We use levers and jacks for this.
  • Having freed up a small space of the seam, we apply a sealant to the surface. Then let it harden, densely fill the remaining space with a solution. When it hardens, remove another part of the square. We continue in this way in small steps until we remove it completely
  • Having finished work on one site, we move on in order to another. We carry out work until the entire defective basement is shifted.

As you can see, the work is not only laborious and complicated, but also takes a lot of time. Relaying the plinth, even under a small house, can take more than a month. Therefore, another method of restoration is more often used - embedding damaged areas with concrete.

Plinth repair with concrete mixtures


  1. First of all, carefully clean the damaged areas. We remove not only crushed stone and dust, but also pieces of brick that are half crumbled, but still retaining contact with the rest of the stone. It is convenient to use a brush and a blower for this purpose. At the same time, you should not be particularly zealous - a chisel and a hammer are useless for this work.
  2. We close up all the cracks, filling them with a sand-cement mixture with a fine fraction of sand. It is advisable to use a solution with the addition of fiber fibers and polymer additives or, in general, special repair compounds.
  3. It is possible that the waterproofing of both the basement from the foundation and from the walls in places where the brick has crumbled is damaged. It is impossible to paste over these defects with sheet material, so we cover them with sealant or mastic in several layers.
  4. Then we need to ensure good adhesion of the mixture to be laid with the rest of the plinth. To do this, we use a fine reinforcing mesh. We fix it to the masonry with screws on dowels or self-expanding anchors.

Please note that there are special varieties of this fastener for bricks and lightweight concrete, which take into account the lower strength and density of these materials. Let's use them. We place the grid vertically at a distance of at least 3-5 centimeters from the future outer surface of the base. Thus, we will protect the steel from corrosion.

You can use a polymer mesh, then the distance to the surface is not important, the plastic is not subject to rust.


Polymer mesh - the best replacement for steel
  • We begin to fill the damaged areas with a solution. It is better to do this with a trowel or a falcon. In those places where the damage is especially deep and the mortar can slide, we install the formwork.
  • Having finished laying, we level the surface and compact it with a vibrating screed.
  • Let the concrete cure under normal conditions. To do this, we cover the repaired place from the sun and slanting rains with a dark film. Periodically wet the surface, not allowing it to dry.
  • We apply a protective coating on concrete - it is best to use compounds that not only repel water, but also give additional strength to its surface. Any hardware store offers a wide range of these tools. If you plan to clad the basement, then this step can be skipped.

After the concrete has hardened, the repair of the brick base can be considered completed. It remains to take care of the decorative finish and additional protection. By the way, almost all technologies and finishing materials simultaneously perform both functions.

First, about protection. By the way, it does not hurt to carry out these works if there is no damage on the base, but it is made of low-quality material, thereby increasing the durability of the structure.

Plinth protection and finishing


In addition to poor waterproofing, high humidity, leading to the destruction of its material, is also created when rainwater enters. An increase in the roof canopy can partially protect against atmospheric precipitation.

Only a properly made blind area can protect against rainwater falling from the ground. After repairing the basement, it must be restored or settled if it was absent at all (most often it cannot be repaired). Therefore, we will tell you in detail how to properly make a blind area.

Restoration and construction of the blind area


First of all, it is necessary to prepare the site, remove the destroyed pieces of concrete from the old blind area and other materials.

Then we begin work, about them again in stages:

  • We carry out earthworks. For the blind area, you need to prepare a shallow trench. Its width is at least 70 centimeters, but the more, the better. Depth not less than 30 centimeters.
  • We compact the bottom of the trench, then we arrange a pillow of sand, crushed stone and a crushed stone-sand mixture, along which we carefully pass several times with a vibrating platform or, in extreme cases, with a rammer.
  • The next stage is the formwork device. It consists of boards or slats laid around the perimeter, which we fix with pegs and bedding. It is necessary to provide that the upper edge of the flooded blind area is at least 5 centimeters above the ground.

Even better, instead of formwork, put a sidewalk stone on concrete locks (although this is an additional cost of labor and material), so our blind area will be reliably protected from breaking off the edges.


  • In addition to the blind area around the perimeter, expansion joints must also be provided. Of course, they can be cut through later, but why spend extra time and wear out discs for cutting concrete, it is better to foresee immediately when pouring. We lay thin slats or other material along the perimeter of the wall, as well as through a distance of 3-4 meters perpendicular to it. We mark them.

Many masters recommend generally connecting the blind area with the base using connections, but this is not correct. Firstly, their foundation does not shrink when the soil freezes and thaws. Secondly, concrete and brick have different coefficients of thermal expansion. Therefore, it is necessary to give them freedom.

Advice. The blind area can not be filled at all, but made of paving slabs (we have already recommended side stones). A slight seepage of water into the ground near the blind area will not hurt. But, as practice shows, it will be more durable.

  • For the device of expansion joints, it is better to use a very dry board of small thickness impregnated with petroleum products, otherwise it will be problematic to remove it (ordinary concrete, although slightly, expands). It is even better to take scraps of metal or other materials that do not swell with water.
  • After laying the formwork, we reinforce the future blind area. As a rule, a mesh laid at 5-10 centimeters is sufficient. As mentioned above, connecting it with a foundation or base not only makes no sense, but is completely dangerous, as this threatens to lose strength.
  • We fill the structure. For compaction and leveling, it is better to use a vibrating screed.

  • Concrete maintenance is normal. By the way, the surface is horizontal, it is advisable to sprinkle it with wet sand or sawdust, constantly moistening them. The film can then also be used transparent, it only protects against evaporation.
  • When the concrete reaches the stripping strength, we remove the formwork. Very carefully, this work must be carried out with slats that provide expansion joints.
  • We fill the seams with either a special sealant or ready-made polymer inserts for such work.

iz-kirpicha.su

Plinth repair work

Reasons why the basement collapses:

  • shrinkage - for brick and concrete structures in the first year, for wooden structures - for the entire time of the existence of the house;
  • soil movements, frost heaving;
  • non-observance of technology in the process of laying, incorrect calculation;
  • climatic factors - frost, rain, snow, wind;
  • the proximity of the occurrence of soil water;
  • poor-quality blind area or its destruction.
  • Repair has several goals:

    • restoration of the bearing capacity, strengthening the strength of the foundation itself and the whole house;
    • insulation of the lower part of the facade and basement from the outside;
    • waterproofing and mechanical protection;
    • aesthetic restoration.

    There are three main types of repairs: current, major and cosmetic.

    The current one involves updating the cladding, heat and waterproofing layers. Since the basement is located in the most aggressive conditions (takes on the maximum load, is influenced by both atmospheric and soil factors), wear occurs faster than the rest of the cottage. It is necessary to periodically diagnose the condition, update the damaged layers, protect the internal space of the basement floor and the internal part of the foundation from adverse effects.

    A major overhaul of the basement is necessary when the very structure of the base is broken: large cracks, chips appear, large pieces crumble, the corners of the house sag unevenly. In this case, it is better if a professional company does the repair work: firstly, they have the appropriate qualifications and equipment, and secondly, they are obliged to correct defects and work defects free of charge if they appear.

    Redecoration involves refining the appearance of the plinth: restoring painting, plaster or other finishes, replacing one cladding with another.

    Work should be carried out in dry weather, in summer or spring, but not in hot weather. Rain and low/excessive temperatures impair the adhesion of the mortar, moisture nullifies the waterproofing and insulation efforts. First you need to assess the condition of the blind area: if it is badly broken, it is dismantled and, at the end of the repair work, a new one is poured.

    The procedure for repairing the basement with your own hands:

    1. Knock down the old plaster to the ground, remove worn-out heat-insulating and waterproofing materials.
    2. Thoroughly clean the base from dirt, fungus, mold.
    3. Treat with an antiseptic.
    4. Fill large cracks in front of the plaster with crushed stone or broken bricks.
    5. Fix the reinforcing metal mesh with dowels.
    6. Prime the surface along with the mesh.
    7. Mix concrete, treat surface. Repair cracks, chips.
    8. Apply finishing plaster, completely close the grid with it. Dry the base for a month, until the concrete has completely set.
    9. Lay waterproofing material and insulation.
    10. Close with facing material - finishing panels, tiles, corrugated board, etc.
    11. Pour the blind area: a layer of concrete 5-8 cm. A small sand and gravel cushion should be poured under the concrete and a layer of roofing material should be laid. It is recommended to add small gravel to the solution. The blind area is reinforced with a metal mesh and poured with a slope from the wall to the outside.

    The arrangement of the foundation is one of the most important stages in the construction of a structure of any size, weight, configuration and purpose. The supporting structure performs several main functions: it receives and ensures uniform distribution of loads created by the structure erected on top of it, and also protects the building from forces and stresses arising in the ground.

    Violation of foundation construction technology in the future can result in the most catastrophic consequences, up to the destruction of the building. Along with this, some problems that have arisen due to improper arrangement of the base can be corrected on their own, eliminating the risk of more serious damage. It is with information about the repair of the foundation on your own that you are invited to read further.

    Reasons for the destruction of the foundation

    The list of reasons that can lead to foundation deformations is given in the table.

    Table. Why is the foundation crumbling


    The reasons Description
    This can occur as a result of washing and flooding of the soil - it is saturated with moisture, which leads to the loss of the necessary bearing capacity. The reason lies in the peculiarities of some varieties of soils that lose their bearing capacity when the humidity increases to a certain level.
    The reason, again, is washing, but the mechanism for the development of the problem is somewhat different. In this case, the bearing capacity of the soil remains at the same level, but some of the soil is washed out from under the support platform, which leads to voids. Such unfavorable changes are most susceptible to sandy and sandy loam varieties of soils.
    The presence of marls and limestones in the soil adversely affects the state of calcites, which are the main elements of concrete. Upon contact with them, the structure of the material is destroyed at the molecular level.
    "Subworking" refers to underground voids formed in the areas of mine workings, oil production, large-scale pumping of groundwater, etc.
    Contact with water leads to corrosion of the materials used in the manufacture of the supporting structure. As a result, even if the bearing capacity of the soil remains at a normal level, the foundation may collapse. Of particular danger are waters with alkaline and acid inclusions.
    The list of such includes many items. The most common deviation from the norm is a violation of the requirements for the depth of the support structure, justified by the desire of the developer to save on excavation and concreting.
    The second popular violation is the use of materials for concreting that are not intended for this. For example, in the era of a shortage of quality materials, many developers built foundations using silicate brick, cinder concrete and other similar products, the strength, reliability and durability of which are in many ways inferior to properly executed reinforced concrete pouring.

    Common foundation defects

    The table contains a list of the most common substructure defects.

    Table. Foundation defects



    Defects Description
    The upper part of the support of such a building is operated in more severe conditions compared to the timber of the walls, which is why it ages and collapses much faster.
    The problem is typical mainly for restless soils with a high degree of frost heaving.
    Most often, foundations sag due to violations of building codes and technologies at the stage of erection of the supporting structure.
    Prolonged contact of a concrete support with open air, precipitation and other atmospheric phenomena can lead to the destruction of the foundation. The situation is especially aggravated in the case of pouring the structure in the winter season. That is why it is necessary either to immediately continue construction after the foundation has gained the necessary strength (according to GOST - 28 days), or to build a shelter that provides protection for the structure from atmospheric influences.
    Improper laying of blocks often leads to the destruction of the supporting structure - individual blocks simply crack and fall out, which does not have the best effect on the strength of the foundation.
    They occur for a variety of reasons. The most common of these have been listed previously.
    It occurs mainly due to improper arrangement of piles, especially on soils that are highly prone to heaving. Usually the problem manifests itself within the first year after the erection of the support system.
    Occurs in the following cases:
    - when providing insufficient support area of ​​the foundation sole;
    - in case of emergency soaking of the surrounding soil;
    - in case of excessive load of the supporting structure;
    - when building a foundation in highly compressible types of soils.
    The following reasons lead to the occurrence of such deformations:
    - decrease in the strength of the foundation wall masonry below the permissible level;
    — excessive loading of the surface next to the building;
    - frost heaving of the soil, exceeding the permissible values.
    The reasons for this defect are as follows:
    - incorrect dressing of masonry or lack thereof;
    - decrease in the strength characteristics of masonry as a result of prolonged operation, frequent soaking, various aggressive influences, etc .;
    - overload of the supporting structure.
    Occurs when:
    - the impact of various aggressive factors on the surface of the supporting structure;
    - lack of waterproofing or its insufficiently high-quality arrangement.
    This defect occurs mainly under the influence of excessive forces of frost heaving of the soil. The risks become especially high if the foundation was laid in violation of technology.
    Such cracks appear mainly when the foundation is overloaded and / or when reinforcement of insufficiently large diameter is used when it is laid.

    Necessary research before starting repairs

    To determine the nature of the damage, the causes of their occurrence, the possibility of self-elimination of defects and, in general, the need to perform any actions, it is necessary to perform a number of research activities.


    The item on the need to take action is included in the list for a reason. It is possible that the causes that led to the occurrence of certain deformations of the supporting structure were of a single nature and will never appear again. For example, once every 100 years there was a very snowy and frosty winter, during which even the ground under the foundation froze. If such weather conditions are not typical for the area in which the building is located, all repairs can be reduced to the elimination of cosmetic defects alone. But diagnostics is performed under any circumstances, because A problem that seems insignificant on the outside can actually be very serious and dangerous.

    Research first. Determine if cracks are growing

    The problem boils down to the following: you need to understand whether the cracks continue to grow. If yes, the nature of the process and the rate of its development are additionally established.

    The study is performed using special markers (beacons).

    The easiest option for making a lighthouse is gypsum or cement mortar. It is most convenient to use ready-mixed plaster. In general, you can use any material from this series that is not prone to plastic deformation after setting, i.e. the composition must be relatively fragile, but, at the same time, reliably adhere to the outside of the basement (above-ground part of the foundation).


    We recommend using a plaster mix. Prepare it according to the manufacturer's instructions and apply a 0.3-0.5 cm layer on the crack. The length of the marker is about 100-120 mm. The composition is applied so that the crack is approximately in the middle of the strip.

    Complete each crack with at least two markers. Make one near the beginning of the fault, the second - at its end. The principle is shown in the image.

    Apply the plaster mixture with a narrow spatula. It is first necessary to clean the surface of the base from dirt in order to ensure the highest quality adhesion of the beacon to the base.

    Without waiting for the marker to harden, print a thin horizontal line on it. To do this, it is enough to gently press the side edge of the spatula, metal ruler or other suitable device into the mixture.

    Number the markers by squeezing out the numbers with a nail or toothpick. Record in your notebook the date of the study and the serial numbers of the beacons.

    Watch next. If the marker cracks, the foundation crack continues to widen. Every few days (the main thing is that equal time intervals are maintained between observations), measure the width of the crack on the plaster marker and record the results in a notebook. Such observations will help you draw conclusions about the rate of development of the deformity and predict the possible outcome.


    Follow the line left with a spatula/ruler. If the parts of this mark are displaced in relation to each other, not only cracks take place, but also the settlement of the structure. Common types of sediment and their relationship to fracture patterns are noted in the image above.

    Research second. Pit preparation

    This event is characterized by more pronounced information content and increased labor intensity. The bottom line is to prepare several (at least two) pits near the foundation. The pit is a hole with a depth to the base of the support and a length of about 100 cm. Choose the width individually so that in the future it will be convenient for you to work with the foundation. To prevent the collapse of the earth, you can support the walls of the pit with unedged boards.

    The described hole looks something like this.

    The dependence of the dimensions of the pit on the features of the foundation is presented in the table.

    The pits are created in the most problematic areas with the most pronounced deformations. Thanks to such a hole, you can get access to the supporting structure and see how deep it is laid, what it is made of (if the building was not built by the real owner), in what condition it arrives, how good the existing waterproofing is. Additionally, you can get information about the depth of groundwater. The latter will appear after 1-2 days.

    If you wish, you can check the groundwater for acidity and alkalinity. To do this, first buy the appropriate tests in stores specializing in the sale of a variety of agricultural chemicals. Litmus paper works best.

    After the completion of these diagnostic measures, you can proceed directly to the repair work.

    Foundation repair: instructions and important notes

    You are invited to familiarize yourself with the procedure for carrying out repairs that can be carried out on your own or with minimal involvement of third-party labor and special devices.


    Important! These cases are the most common. If you follow building codes and regulations, preparation for repairing the foundation begins with the creation of a project for the upcoming work, including information about the existing deformations and possible ways to eliminate them in a particular case.

    In most situations, to successfully repair the foundation, especially if a wooden bath is installed on top of it, the building has to be raised. This is done in different ways (by a crane, ropes stretched under the building, etc.), but the method that involves the use of jacks is considered the best.

    Ideally, jacks should be installed around the entire perimeter of the building - this will ensure an even distribution of loads and minimize the risk of destruction of building elements. At a minimum, you will need 2-3 jacks - in this case, you will gradually move them around the perimeter of the building, replacing them with metal support frames, but it will take more time to complete the work in such conditions. The recommended lifting capacity of the jack is 5 tons.

    Repair of a rickety columnar base

    A fairly common problem is that the poles began to deviate from the vertical. This happens mainly under the influence of the forces of frost heaving or due to violations of the technology for pouring pillars.

    Important! Before starting work, read the information on the methods of knitting reinforcement for the foundation and the instructions for preparing the mortar and constructing the formwork for the supporting pillars - the necessary information was provided earlier in the relevant publications, therefore it is not described again.

    In this case, the repair comes down to replacing the rickety pillars with new correct supports.

    The instruction is given in the table.

    Table. Column Foundation Repair

    Stage of work Description
    First of all, it is necessary to install props that will temporarily take over the functions of remote support pillars. The image shows a support made of a beam with a section corresponding (better - exceeding) the dimensions of a concrete support column. The bottom wooden pad is needed to create a larger footprint and provide better load distribution. A similar wooden platform is recommended to be made between the bottom of the building and the top of the support.
    The installation of a wooden support is carried out at a minimum distance from the foundation pillar to be replaced, with the expectation that in the future it would be convenient to carry out the necessary working manipulations.
    If you have jacks, you can use them instead of wooden supports - it's even more convenient.
    The weak support is being dismantled, up to the sand and gravel cushion.
    Important! If it turns out that the poles were slanted because they were not set deep enough, the provided guidance additionally includes the steps of excavating the existing sand and gravel backfill, deepening the holes and re-arranging the pad.
    For the destruction of concrete, it is most convenient to use a hammer drill. The work is quite dusty, do not forget to wear safety goggles and a respirator.
    The reinforcing cage is also subject to dismantling. You are unlikely to succeed in maintaining its integrity and perfectly cleaning it from frozen concrete, so you can make your work easier by arming yourself with a grinder, sawing the bars into separate elements and removing them from the pit intended for pouring the pillar.
    A new reinforcing support is being constructed. For greater reliability, assemble it from reinforcement with a diameter of 2 cm. The maximum cell size is 20x20 cm. The height of the frame is selected in accordance with the height of the concrete support. You can see the required number of bars and the principle of their connection in the image.
    Install a reinforcing frame in the pit.
    Pour the first ball of concrete so that it covers the sole of the reinforcing frame by 5-10 cm. Leave the pour for about a day (better - for 2-3 days) so that the concrete gains its initial strength.
    Install precast timber planks and pour concrete to the top. It is advisable not to remove the formwork until the concrete has fully set the required strength. According to GOST, under normal conditions (plus temperature), it takes 28 days. Leave the support for the specified time as well.
    Similarly, all lopsided poles are repaired.

    In addition, we offer you an improved version of the above technology, which involves the arrangement of a grillage - a monolithic reinforced concrete tape that connects the support pillars into a single system and provides much more efficient performance of the key functions of the foundation structure. The only drawback of the technology is that you will have to work with all the pillars, replacing them with less high supports in order to get a place to fill the grillage.

    First, you do everything as in the technology described above, but reduce the height of the part of the column protruding above the ground (hence, the formwork) by the height of the grillage. The recommended overall characteristics of the grillage are as follows: height - at least 300 mm, width - at least 400 mm.

    The order of further actions is presented in the table.

    Table. Continuation of the repair of the columnar foundation

    Stage of work Description
    Assemble the formwork from high-quality boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm. It is preferable to use bolts to fasten individual elements - after the concrete has hardened, it will be much easier to unscrew them than to pull out the nails for the subsequent dismantling of the formwork.
    Steel bars with a diameter of 1.2-1.4 cm are suitable for reinforcement. The reinforcement is laid in two rows. The circuit is shown in the image.
    Mount the side walls of the formwork. You can get more detailed recommendations on the correct implementation of this stage of work in the publication mentioned earlier. Leave gaps for pouring concrete.
    Pour the concrete into the grillage formwork in uniform horizontal layers.

    Now it remains only to wait at least a month until the concrete gains the required strength. After that, dismantle the formwork. As a result, you will get a reliable, correct and durable support structure.

    Repair of a subsiding foundation

    This problem is most often faced by owners of buildings built on brick or rubble support bases. How to make sure the presence of growing cracks (using plaster markers) was described earlier.

    After completing the preliminary diagnostic measures, get to work. Let's say right away that it is possible to repair a rubble / brick foundation by replacing the destroyed sections of the masonry, but it is impractical - since the support has begun to crack now, the problem will definitely arise in the future. The best repair option in such a situation is to replace the prefabricated foundation with a monolithic concrete slab.

    First, dig a trench around the perimeter of the building to get to the bottom of the supporting base.

    Table. Repair of rubble / brick foundation

    Stage of work Description
    Destroy a section of masonry 50-100 cm wide for the subsequent installation of a jack. For destruction, use a puncher, sledgehammer and related auxiliary tools. It is better if there are several jacks available so that you can make similar openings with about a meter step around the perimeter of the building and fix the entire building on the jacks at once.
    Important! When using jacks, the building is raised gradually, by a maximum of 100 mm in one go. Haste in this case can lead to an irreversible violation of the geometry of the building.
    As noted, it is better to install the jack on a support - this will increase the area and efficiency of load distribution. The support may be a pre-poured or finished concrete slab, building block, etc. To increase the contact area between the top of the jack and the "bottom" of the house, lay between them a metal plate with a thickness of 1 cm and a length of about half the width of the selected opening.
    After installing the fixtures, raise the structure above the old support base and fix the position with jacks.
    Useful advice! Before raising the building on jacks, it is highly advisable to temporarily dismantle windows and doors, because. they may not survive such a test. Also, interior items and, if possible, a stove should be removed from the bath in order to facilitate construction as much as possible.
    Assemble support boxes from at least 2 cm (in diameter) reinforcement. The structure of those is shown in the image. Select the height of the box so that it passes into the opening between the base and the structure and is rigidly fixed there. The recommended support width is approximately half the width of the selected opening, i.e. 25-50 cm.
    In the presented image, the support is on the same platform with the jack. We will do it the other way, installing the supporting structures directly on the previously equipped crushed stone backfill. It is only necessary to further carefully seal it, because. the density could decrease during the previous operation of the building, and align it horizontally as much as possible.
    Work in a similar order until you have installed metal supports around the perimeter of the entire building. The step between the supports is recommended to be maintained within 100 cm.
    Install the inner wall of the formwork. This image shows the lower support layer of compacted sand and gravel and metal support boxes.
    Recommendations for the installation of the formwork structure were given earlier.
    The reinforcement scheme is shown in the image. Run a similar row of reinforcement along the top. For work, use bars with a diameter of 14 mm.
    The outer wall of the formwork is mounted and concrete is poured.

    Useful advice! In a similar manner, it is possible to replace not only a prefabricated rubble / brick foundation, but also a monolithic tape support base. Everything is done in the same order, only to destroy the concrete tape and remove the old reinforcing layer, much more effort will have to be made than to replace the collapsing brick / rubble support.

    Repair of the supporting structure of the beam bath

    As noted, one of the most common problems of log/log baths is the premature failure of the lower rims, which often begin to rot much faster than the material for making the walls of the building.

    Pre-dig a few holes and assess the condition of the supporting structure from the sole to the top. If there is significant damage to the foundation, repair it in accordance with one of the above instructions. If everything is normal with the base itself and only the lower rims are damaged, work in the sequence shown in the table.

    Table. Repair of the foundation of a bath from a bar / log house

    Stage of work Description
    Armed with a chainsaw or other suitable tool, prepare openings in the lower crowns for the subsequent installation of jacks. Select the width of the openings so that it is convenient to install / remove the jacks.
    The distance between the openings is up to 150 cm.
    Place the jacks in the prepared openings. Raise the bath above the lower crowns and fix the jacks in one position.
    Important! The building must not be lifted jerkily or excessively quickly - there is a high risk of irreversible displacement of the walls. Raise one wall/corner a maximum of 100mm first, then move to the opposite wall/corner and do the same. In the same order, gradually raise the entire building.
    Having installed the jacks, cut out the remaining material for the manufacture of the lower rims. For example, work with one wall of the building is shown. With the rest of the walls, everything is done in exactly the same way.
    Install metal supports and remove jacks. Recommendations for assembling boxes are similar to the previous instructions. The optimal layout of the supports is shown in the image.
    Everything is done as in the previous guide.
    Recommendations are similar to the previously discussed instructions.
    Pour concrete, give it at least a month to set strength and dismantle the formwork.
    Now your bath stands on a reliable, strong and durable support base. You can forget about the problem of rotten lower rims forever.

    The following instructions for repairing the foundation are relevant for the most common cases of destruction of supporting structures. As noted, it must be remembered that each situation is individual and the foundations of two identical buildings can undergo completely different changes and deformations.

    If you wish, you can familiarize yourself with information about more complex professional methods for strengthening and reconstructing foundations, involving the use of special equipment and chemicals. Information on this subject was detailed by O. A. Korobova in her book “Strengthening Foundations and Reconstruction of Foundations”.

    O.A. KOROBOVA. STRENGTHENING OF FOUNDATIONS AND RECONSTRUCTION OF FOUNDATIONS. Download file

    Tutorial

    banya-expert.com

    Types of basement repair

    The “well-being” and safety of the entire foundation depends on the integrity of the basement, how much the house will be protected from destruction and moisture penetration. If the basement is in poor condition, then the house will constantly be affected by precipitation, moisture, and other natural factors. As a result, mold, destruction of masonry and other things that are unpleasant and dangerous for the comfortable living of the owners of the house may appear. Therefore, it is very important to carry out timely repairs to the cement or brick basement of the building.

    Its purpose:

    • Facade insulation.
    • Protection against humidity, weather conditions, temperature differences, weathering.
    • Strengthening the strength of the entire structure of the building.
    • Visual giving the appearance of reliability and strength to the building.

    Renovation of the basement and its types

    The plinth can be sunken, protruding or located in the same plane with the outer wall. The protruding plinth is traditional. Suitable if the house is built of light stone, for example, shell rock. Ideal for residential buildings. Cons - increased material consumption.

    Current repair of the basement

    The proximity of the plinth to the ground and the fact that it is located outside the building and, accordingly, is subject to bad weather conditions, lead to the fact that it requires repair from time to time. After all, if you do not pay attention in time, over time it will affect the condition of the entire building.

    The main goal pursued by the owners of the building when repairing the basement is to protect the underground space from external adverse influences. The plinth must be very durable and weather resistant. This rule applies not only to ordinary residential buildings, but also to office buildings and shops.

    A basement overhaul is necessary if:

    • Cracks appeared in any part of the base. The signal is extremely bad. The reasons may be swelling of the soil, groundwater, too heavy building.
    • large surface chips or partial destruction of the surface.

    • Humidity, wind, frost and heat are unfavorable weather conditions.
    • The building presses its weight on the foundation. Over time, this action has a destructive effect.
    • Construction errors. Non-compliance with norms, violation of technology.
    • The destruction of the blind area or it is not sufficiently reinforced.

    To repair it, it would be better to invite specialists, since a poor-quality amateurish approach can seriously damage your home. In addition, the repair of a brick base, carried out by a team of builders, guarantees that in case of poor-quality repairs, measures will be taken to eliminate the shortcomings. As a rule, these measures are free for the customer.

    Cosmetic repair of the plinth

    But if you decide to repair the basement on your own, then on the Internet you can find a large number of videos, where the whole process is presented step by step in detail.

    It is important to repair the brick base in the warm and dry season. Strong cold or rain, as well as very strong heat, are categorically not suitable for work, since the adhesion of the solution to the material in such weather conditions will be much worse.

    Before work, it is necessary to study the condition of the blind area, as it plays a very important role in maintaining the foundation and protecting the house. If the damage to the blind area is minor, cosmetic repairs will also go, if significant, get ready to fill in a new one.

    Features of finishing materials for the repair of the plinth

    Popular types of finishes in the Moscow region:

    • Tile. Very beautiful, waterproof, practical material. You can choose any color. Cons - somewhat expensive and has a high thermal conductivity, which will require more additional insulating material.
    • Siding. Very easy to install, lightweight and looks beautiful. But if the plinth is uneven, it will be quite difficult to install, which can lead to additional costs.
    • Wood. It looks very attractive and noble, but this material is prone to decay and bugs start in it. Short-lived.
    • Stone. The most durable material But heavy, which requires significant labor costs - this affects the final cost of all work on repairing the basement.
    • Aluminum. The material meets all the basic requirements for repair. Cons - rather high price and not always available in stores.
    • Metal decking. Inexpensive material, easy to install, has good water repellency.

    Repair of the basement of the buildingstages:

    • Beat the remains of the old plaster to the base of the plinth.
    • Dry the wall thoroughly, remove mold, fungus.
    • Surface treatment with antiseptic.
    • Attach a metal reinforced mesh to dowels or self-tapping screws. An important point - the strength of the entire coating depends on the thoroughness of its implementation.
    • Carefully impregnate the reinforcement with a primer.
    • We make our own mortar from cement and sand or we make it from a ready-made purchased dry mix, which is preferable, since the finished mix has better adhesive characteristics than a home-made one.
    • We apply the resulting concrete to the surface, making sure that it completely fills all the cracks and crevices. So until only the reinforcement remains visible.
    • After the concrete has dried, we apply the top coat, covering the reinforced mesh with it.
    • The material will solidify completely within a month. When the concrete is dry, we put insulating material, a foam plastic that meets all the basic requirements is great: lightweight, easy to install, low thermal conductivity, does not rot and pests do not start in it, waterproof and cheap.
    • At the very end of the repair of the basement of the building, we finish with facing materials. They have a huge selection for every taste and wallet size.

    Close attention should be paid to the blind area - it is probably not in the best condition either, since you have already started repairing the cement basement. Its height should be 5-8 cm. And it is important when pouring it to give strength to the structure with a reinforced mesh. In several layers. You can also add fine gravel to the concrete solution for maximum strength. Do not forget that the correct blind area should be made at a slight slope so that rainwater and melting precipitation do not fall under the foundation.

    Basement repair cost

    The cost of repairing the basement today in Moscow and the Moscow region, the average estimate:

    • concrete block masonry - price per m2 - 700-800 rubles;
    • applying plaster on a reinforced mesh - also 700-800 rubles per m2;
    • insulation - from 550 rubles. per linear meter;
    • tiling - from 1100 rubles. for the meter;
    • facing with siding - from 900 rubles;
    • facing with natural stone - from 1300 rubles. for the meter.

    If you decide to use the services of a construction company, then after ordering by phone, an appraiser will come to you, who will select the best option for repairing the basement for you, designate the “front of work” and draw up a detailed estimate with justification for each step. As a rule, the estimate is calculated free of charge. Do not forget that when you turn to professionals, you get guarantees for work, which improves the quality and prolongs the life of your home. The final price of the basement repair is affected by:

    • The scope of work in general, their complexity, the necessary types of repairs;
    • What materials will be used;
    • Deadlines.

    In modern construction, especially industrial buildings, preference is given to the sinking form of the base, as more aesthetic. In addition, this form protects the waterproofing from atmospheric precipitation, which prolongs its service life and, accordingly, less material consumption.

    kvartira-krasivo.ru

    The main reasons for the destruction of the basement of the house

    If cracks appear on the basement of your house or a fungus has formed, this indicates improper work in the construction of the building and non-compliance with the necessary design standards.

    The main reasons for the destruction of the basement of the house are:

    1. Structural shrinkage. This process mainly depends on the soil on which the building is located and on the weight of the building. A very pronounced shrinkage process can be in a brick apartment building.
    2. Groundwater flow. If the design does not take into account the depth of groundwater flow and does not take all the necessary measures for waterproofing, then the foundation of the house is washed away. If you decide to make a foundation with your own hands, then be sure to contact the professionals so that they tell you at what depth the groundwater flows.
    3. Poor quality padding. Failure to comply with the blind area manufacturing technology leads to undermining of the foundation.
    4. Violation of design standards. Very often, builders forget about the insulation of the foundation and its waterproofing, basically such a mistake is made when repairs are done not by professional teams, but by their own hands. Such oversights lead to the formation of fungus and freezing of building structures, which subsequently leads to the destruction of the basement.

    How to repair the basement with your own hands?

    The integrity of the basement is a very important characteristic for any house (one-story or multi-storey, brick or wooden), as the basement protects the foundation from the aggressive influence of external natural factors. Watch the video on how to strengthen the plinth with your own hands.

    To repair the basement with your own hands, you must adhere to the following sequence:

    The slope of the blind area in the direction opposite from the house should be at least 2%, so that the water drains and does not stagnate.

    • When the reconstruction work is completed, install a small reinforcing mesh over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe basement of the house. It should exactly repeat the design of the foundation and fit snugly against it. To fix it, use the dowel nails, place the grid vertically.
    • Coat the plinth and mesh with a primer, then wait until it is completely dry.
    • Apply a layer of liquid cement mortar to the plinth and grid. Do it in such a way that after the work done, the contours of the grid cells can be seen. Level the applied layer with a grater. Be sure to wait until this layer is completely dry.
    • Plaster the basement of the house.

    How to protect the basement of the house from destruction?

    Having done all the above steps, I want to protect the foundation and basement of the house from destruction. You can do this in several ways:

    • Budget option, do it yourself. It has been in use for several decades. It consists in the fact that resin is applied to the foundation of the house from the outside to protect it from external factors. Such a mixture is prepared as follows: diesel fuel is mixed with resin and slowly heated over a fire until a homogeneous mixture is formed, similar to jelly. In this case, you need to make sure that it does not get on your skin and you are not burned. Such a solution, when solidified, forms a protective film that prevents moisture from entering the foundation.
    • Modern version. This method of protecting the foundations of a house is more expensive, but it provides better preservation of building structures. This method involves facing the basement with decorative tiles or stone. Using this method, you only need to choose the right mixture for gluing the necessary material.

    It is necessary to clad the plinth in all types of buildings, especially those built of brick material.

    fundamentaya.ru

    Why do you need a plinth and a blind area

    The basement is one of the important parts of the constructed building; it performs an important function - heat-insulating. And since it is located on the outside of the building, it is constantly affected by the environment, temperature changes, moisture, and it is most susceptible to deformation and destruction. And if there is a deformation of the basement and blind areas, then the whole building begins to collapse. How to repair a blind area? It is best to invite professional builders to repair the basement, then it is likely that the repair will be done on time and with high quality. But you can try to do everything yourself, with the help of useful tips.

    An important function is performed by the blind area. It is located around the entire perimeter of the building, is a path that is arranged at a certain angle of inclination. This is done so that water does not flow into the foundation. Often winter frosts can destroy the blind area.

    Causes of the destruction of the basement and blind area

    Since the basement is located on the outside, that is, on the street, it is subjected to constant precipitation, from which it begins to collapse. The same applies to the blind area, which also tends to crack and move away from the foundation. Causes of destruction include:

    • temperature changes;
    • constant moisture in rainy weather;
    • frosts;
    • house weight;
    • non-compliance with technological standards during the construction of the basement.

    The concrete pavement, which was installed around the apartment building, is also influenced by natural factors. In the occurrence of cracks, an important role is played by the apartment building itself, its weight. If the blind area is filled with weak concrete, then large loads also affect.

    Plinth repair - how to do it yourself

    Plinth repair involves, first of all, the removal of dampness, fungus and mold. In order to get rid of all this, you need to open the base, that is, beat off the old plaster from it, clean it completely, around the entire perimeter. Drying is a must. After drying, treat the dry surface of the basement with a special antiseptic composition or sheathe it with boards that were impregnated with an antiseptic before installation. It is also necessary to take measures to insulate the basement so that it does not freeze and moisture does not penetrate into it.

    Of course, a person is able to carry out all repairs himself, especially if he has experience in construction matters. But the reasons for the destruction of the basement should be established by specialists, they will also give advice on the problems that have arisen and their solution.

    To repair the plinth, it is better to wait for warm and dry weather, but so that there is no strong heat. In heat or rain, concrete dries poorly, unevenly and adheres poorly to the wall.

    To repair the base, you need to have the following tools:

    • concrete mixer;
    • shovel;
    • bushhammer;
    • Master OK.

    From the materials you will need:

    • sand;
    • cement;
    • metal grid.

    When the damaged area is beaten off from the old plaster, dirt is removed, the base is impregnated with an antiseptic, a metal mesh can be fixed. It will greatly increase the strength of the solution that will be applied to the wall. It must be installed evenly, the mesh is fixed with dowels. Then the surface of the base should be treated with a primer. The composition of the primer should also get on the grid, this will increase the susceptibility to the solution. This step can be skipped, but then instead of priming, the base should be moistened with water.

    Now you need to apply the solution to the grid. The concrete mortar must be more liquid than for ordinary plaster. The solution through the mesh should get on the wall and very tightly fill all the cracks and voids. To obtain a high-quality coating, the solution must be pressed in. From the applied solution, only the grid should be visible. The next step is to apply the finishing solution to the plinth; decorative plaster can be used instead. Plastering work during the repair of the basement is difficult, so when performing these works you need to be careful and attentive.

    After the mortar on the basement of the house dries up, you should proceed to finish the basement of the house. For finishing, you should choose high-quality and durable materials that can provide surface protection, and the next repair will not have to be done soon.

    Do-it-yourself blind area repair

    When repairing the basement of a house, you can correct the defects that have arisen in the blind area. Repair of the blind area occurs in this way.

    The blind area is set to a height of 4-7 cm. It should be above ground level. Then the damaged area should be filled with cement mortar. In order for the blind area to have strength, it is reinforced with a mesh. You can even lay multiple layers of mesh. You can also achieve an increase in strength by adding crushed stone of a fine fraction to the solution. The blind area should have an angle of inclination from the house. This must be taken into account when pouring, then water will not fall under the foundation.

    It is necessary to repair the blind area when small cracks appear on the surface of the blind area. Cement mortar is used to seal such cracks. Cracks are closed in the following way. The surface of the blind area is cleaned, you can even wash it. Then a liquid cement mortar is prepared, with which the blind area is poured, the liquid solution flows into the cracks and fills them. The consistency of the solution should be 1:1 or 1:2.

    If there are cracks in the middle solution, then they can be repaired like this. Cracks are enlarged with a perforator in order to repair them with high quality. Then you need to treat the cracks with a primer. After drying, they should be filled with a bitumen composition with the addition of asbestos and crushed slag. After the mixture has hardened, the blind area is poured with a thin layer of cement mortar.

    If the cracks are large, then you need to make repairs like this. Cracks are cleaned of dirt and primed. You need to let the primer dry. The cracks are then filled with concrete. Remember, it is concrete, not cement mortar. Places filled with concrete should be covered with a film for about a day.

    It also happens that the blind area has peeled off from the house - how to repair it in this case? The place of delamination should be thoroughly cleaned and primed, the crack should be enlarged. This is done to ensure that the seal is durable and of high quality. You can also cover the base with bituminous mastic. A large opening between the blind area and the house is poured with concrete, and if the gap is small, then it can be filled with a rare cement solution.

    When asked about the blind area, how to repair and when, it can be answered that repairs are best done in the spring, while there is still no high temperature, or at the beginning of summer, when it is still cool. This should be done because, due to heat, cracks can decrease, and this will lead to the impossibility of repairing them with high quality.

    Finishing the basement after repair

    After the repair, you can start finishing the basement. There are different options for this. The blind area has already been repaired, and you need to start decorating the basement.

    The design of the basement is not a tribute to fashion, but its protection from the effects of natural phenomena. This can be done with bitumen or mixtures, or you can use the forgotten old-fashioned method. To do this, melt the resin and diesel. Do this on low heat, stir slowly. After preparation, a high-quality solution for coating is obtained. This method has been used everywhere before. Coated with a round brush, applying a thick layer.

    If it is possible to spend money on finishing the plinth, you can create a more interesting look and durable protection from exposure to the sun, wind and frost. Finishing can be done from artificial stone. To do this, you need to choose a quality adhesive mixture. You should carefully read the instructions, for different mixtures you need different additions, in the form of a primer, mesh, and, possibly, the preparation of a special layer. But it should be remembered that finishing with artificial or natural stone is an expensive undertaking, although the basement is an important part of the building, on which the long years of the existence of the house depend.

    In order to repair the basement and blind areas around the house yourself, you can watch a video on a special construction site or read an article. The advice of repair specialists will certainly help to carry out everything planned, the main thing is to have enough patience and strength.


    moifundament.ru

    Basement as a building element

    The plinth is perceived simply as the lower part of the wall, which has a purely aesthetic value. However, it is more correct to consider it as a structural element that is part of the outer wall, and in some cases as the last protective line of the foundation and the entire building.

    Plinth - the lowest elevated part of a building or part of it (for example, columns, racks). It can be part of a foundation that rises above the ground, part of a foundation wall, or the outer part of a basement. It performs several functions:

    • structural - is a reinforced part of the building on which its weight rests;
    • decorative - creates an edge on the wall (can be recessed, protruding or flush), emphasizing the features of the house;
    • protective - protects the walls of the house from the destructive effects of atmospheric phenomena and mechanical damage.

    The plinth should have a sufficient height, at least 30-50 cm, too low / narrow (less than 20 cm) will not fulfill its protective functions, and as a decor detail it will be rather doubtful.

    The lower edge of the plinth is installed at a height of at least 10 cm above ground level, which allows you to create a slope from the wall of the house. This facilitates the runoff of rainwater, and reduces the impact of moisture on the foundation and walls.

    Reasons for the destruction of the base

    The signs indicating the beginning of the destruction of the basement include the formation of cracks, the appearance of a fungus, peeling of plaster, fallen off tiles. All this points to mistakes made at the stage of design, construction or operation of the building and the need to start repairing the basement. There are several reasons for the destruction:

    1. Shrinkage of the house - may be due to the type of soil, technological errors in the manufacture of the foundation, inconsistency in the design of the foundation and the weight of the building.
    2. Impact of groundwater - during the design, the level of groundwater occurrence was not determined or was ignored, the waterproofing was not performed at the proper level and, as a result, the building was subjected to flooding. This will lead to the gradual destruction of the foundation, the basement and the entire building.
    3. Atmospheric phenomena (rain, snow) - as a rule, have a detrimental effect if the blind area was performed incorrectly, of poor quality.
    4. Biological corrosion, or rather microbiological, is due to the development of various types of microorganisms on the surface of building materials, which include algae (causing green plaque), mold fungus (gray-black plaque) or lichens arising from symbiotic hyperplasia of the fungus and algae (green-black plaque). This phenomenon not only worsens the aesthetics of the plinth, but also extends to the facade, and after a while leads to mechanical damage.

    The impact of some of the above factors can be avoided if you consult with specialists when designing a house.

    Do-it-yourself basement repair

    With some skill and skills in construction, you can repair the basement of the house with your own hands. Work is carried out in a certain sequence. First of all, you should choose the time. The best will be the end of spring or the beginning of summer, when the earth has dried up, and the weather has settled, and warm days prevail.

    Then you should clean the surface, and assess the damage. To do this, cover the base and blind area with a broom and carefully inspect the surface. At the same time, you can tap it, “thumping” places are to be removed. You should also remove the falling off parts, and walk with a metal brush to remove the exfoliated fragments of the structure.

    If a large part of the basement needs restoration, then instead of repairing it, it is better to equip a new one.

    The blind area should be carefully considered, if it is badly damaged around the entire building, has peeled off the foundation, then it should be completely replaced. The old blind area is removed, cleaned and equipped with a trench with a depth of forty centimeters, then a layer of sand and gravel of 20 cm is poured and rammed. A geotextile is spread over this layer and sprinkled on top with a layer of sand. After that, holes are drilled in the foundation (every 50 cm), into which reinforcement is hammered. A reinforcing mesh is attached to it. Formwork is installed and concrete is poured.

    After the concrete has hardened, you can begin to repair the basement. If you want to completely redo the base, then around the perimeter of the building you will need to fix the reinforcing mesh. Holes are drilled in the wall for the reinforcement pins, in one or two rows, depending on the given height, into which reinforcement rods are driven in, so long and to such a depth that the mesh mounted on them is in the body of the base. Then the surface is carefully primed with a deep penetration primer (twice), after which the formwork is installed. As a formwork, it is best to use laminated, moisture-resistant plywood. After that, concrete is poured into the formwork to evenly distribute and compact it, you can use a reinforcement bar. Formwork can be dismantled after a week.

    If the thickness of the planned layer does not allow for reinforcement, formwork installation, and subsequent concrete pouring, then the basement can be repaired by plastering it. On the wall, with the help of dowels, an exhaust mesh is attached, on top of which, for the convenience of work, plaster beacons are installed. Then the surface is primed twice and plaster is applied to it. A cement plaster mortar is used, which is applied in the same way as with ordinary plastering of walls.

    In the case when it is possible to get by with the repair of individual sections, the order of work is slightly different. Areas that need restoration are thoroughly cleaned and primed. Then, an exhaust mesh is attached directly to them with dowels, so that it does not protrude from the recess formed at the site of the repaired area. After that, the surface is again treated with soil and leveled with a layer of plaster. To make it more convenient to apply plaster, you can use plaster beacons, and in small areas, you can use undamaged areas of the base as a guide.

    To make the surface homogeneous, after grouting the plaster, you can walk along the joints with a hard sponge dipped in water.

    Restoration and strengthening of the foundation can be seen in this video:

    Plinth protection

    After the plinth is repaired, it is advisable to think about protecting it in the future. Despite the fact that the work on its repair is not extremely difficult, it is still a dubious pleasure to do its restoration every year. There are several options for protecting the basement and, as a result, the foundation - from budget to quite expensive.

    Bituminous mastic - you can buy ready-made or cook it yourself. The resin is mixed with diesel fuel and heated over a fire. Then this mixture is covered with a completely dried plinth. The option is cheap, but not practical - the coating will be easily soiled, and over time, a variety of garbage will stick to it and you can forget about the attractive appearance of the house.

    Mosaic plaster is the best option. Consists of small pebbles and adhesive material based on various resins. It has frost resistance, vapor permeability and high resistance to mechanical damage.

    Natural facing materials - mainly granite, sandstone, slate, travertine are used. The option is expensive, but the most attractive in terms of aesthetics. In addition, if the facing work is done by professionals and in high quality, then the plinth will be provided with very good protection due to this.

    Artificial facing materials - perhaps the most common option. Clinker or concrete tiles at a relatively low price have high protective qualities and have an attractive appearance.

    It is best to take care of the safety of the basement of the house at the design stage, but if due to some circumstances this was not enough, and it needs restoration, then there is nothing to worry about. Repairing the basement of a house with your own hands is a completely doable task.

    kakfundament.ru

    How to repair the basement of a brick house?

    • Uneven house shrinkage
    • Signs of violation of the integrity of the structure
    • Structural strengthening works
    • Do-it-yourself repair of a columnar structure

    Old houses are often in need of repair work, among the most difficult is the repair of the basement and the foundation itself. Such repair work has a number of features that must be determined before work begins.

    Before starting the repair of the basement of the house, it is necessary to clean the crack from debris, and then fill it with rubble or small particles of brick.

    The most common type of such repair can be considered the elimination of the consequences of uneven subsidence of the soil, which harms not only the supporting part of the foundation, but also all the bearing walls of the building.

    Uneven house shrinkage

    Plinth device diagram.

    Loose or heaving soils are extremely often the result of subsidence of the foundation structure in certain places. Most often, such places are located at the corners of the house, which leads to the formation of cracks and delaminations of the basement and walls of the building. You can determine the beginning of uneven shrinkage of the foundation by considering the condition of the blind area around the entire perimeter of the house. In places where the soil subsides, the blind area will be cracked, which is a signal for further repair-type actions.

    In some cases, the shrinkage of the foundation may be only temporary. After the supporting base of the structure reaches a solid area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe soil, shrinkage will stop by itself, but this happens extremely rarely.

    Most often, the house continues to sag in certain places, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the foundation structure, the basement and the entire building. The consequence of such an action can be not only the impact of the environment, but also errors and shortcomings of the developer himself.

    For example, if a poor-quality sewerage or water supply system was organized in the house, which often leaked, this could lead to the saturation of the soil near the foundation with water, which froze in winter. Such a cycle leads to heaving of the soil above the considered level, and as a result, it harms the entire structure of the basement of the house. In addition, during the initial construction of the house, fatal mistakes could have been made associated with poor-quality mortar or the use of incorrect foundation construction technology.

    The basement of the building is exposed to the aggressive influence of many factors.

    It is more often than other areas in need of repair. You can't get stuck with her. After all, the destruction of the basement reduces the durability of the entire structure.

    So that damage to the plaster does not lead to the growth of mold and does not allow moisture to destroy the wall, you need to correct the situation and repair the basement of the building in a timely manner. As a rule, it consists in the restoration of seams, new plastering of hotel areas. Sometimes when repairing the basement of a brick house, you have to change individual bricks.

    First, the lower part of the wall is released from contact with the ground. To do this, use a shovel.

    Then all plaster fragments that do not adhere well are removed, you must try not to miss voids, they can be detected by tapping. All loose plaster is beaten off with a hammer or chisel.

    Then the surface is cleaned of dirt and dust. Use a wire brush to thoroughly remove all plaster residue. How to perform this work, you can see in the photo or video.

    All surfaces that need to be protected from plaster, such as window frames, must be covered with masking tape. It will protect important areas from pollution.

    The detected defects in the masonry are moistened before repairing the lining of the brick basement. This is necessary to ensure better contact of the plaster mixture with the surface.

    To fill the existing voids, you should pick up bricks of the appropriate size. You can cut out fragments of the desired size from aerated concrete blocks.

    The next step in repairing the basement with your own hands is to fill the voids with prepared bricks and fix them with masonry mortar.

    Before plastering the surface, it must be thoroughly moistened. To do this, you can take a bucket and a brush, but it is easier and faster to wet the wall with water from a hose.

    Then prepare a solution (waterproofing sludge) for waterproofing. The mixture is diluted with clean water.

    The solution is applied to the restored areas in 2 passes. First, a thin layer of 1 - 2 mm, when the first layer begins to set, apply a second layer of 3 mm. In this case, you can use a brush or a wide spatula.

    The applied layers should stand for a day. You can continue working the next day.

    Then a mortar for plaster is prepared.

    Again perform 2-layer application. First, a layer of 10 mm is applied. The plaster is rubbed with force over the surface, moving the spatula in a semicircle.

    In order for the walls to be smooth in the end, it is advisable to use plaster strips, during the installation of which a level should be applied. These planks come in several varieties. In this case, they are made of wood.

    The next layer of plaster is applied with a thickness of 15 - 20 mm.

    The plaster is carefully applied over the entire surface, it is desirable to fill the entire surface with it up to the foundation. Then it will be possible to talk about the complete and high-quality repair of the basement plaster.

    The base point for removing excess mortar will be not only plaster strips, but also an intact cladding layer, as in the photo.

    When the surface dries, it is leveled with a plaster trowel.

    To beautifully decorate the corner, plaster strips are used. By attaching the plank to the appropriate corner, you can align the end of the wall. Then the bar is removed.

    Practical advice! To make a homogeneous transition from old plaster to new in structure, you can process the joints with foam plastic.

    The last stage of repairing the basement of a private house is to treat surfaces in contact with the ground. To do this, you can use waterproofing slurry or bituminous mastic.

    Do-it-yourself basement repair is easy to do. As a result, you can breathe new life into the old structure.

    Plinth repair video

    Before starting the repair of the basement of a brick house or the facade of an apartment building, it is necessary to determine the causes and degree of destruction of structures. Signs that restoration is required are visible cracks in the plaster or masonry, peeling of the cladding, the formation of fungus on the walls, subsidence or bulging of individual sections of the facade of the building, falling out of single bricks, deviation from the vertical.

    Causes of destruction

    Uneven shrinkage of the foundation. Occurs due to subsidence of heaving or soft type of soil, the weight of the building, poor-quality blind area.

    This process is most susceptible to multi-apartment brick houses. The close occurrence of groundwater and, as a result, washing away the foundation of the house. This is due to the fact that this nuance was not included in the construction project. Poor-quality building materials and violation of building codes. Trees planted close to the house with a powerful root system, undermining the blind area of ​​the building. Problems with communications. In the case when there is a breakthrough in the central water supply system and the foundation is flooded or the sewage system is of poor quality. Climatic phenomena (wind, frost, rain) and microbiological influences - the occurrence of mold fungi, lichens, which leads to mechanical destruction of brickwork.

    To repair the basement and brick facade with your own hands, you must first determine the degree of destruction and designate a list of works.

    If the facade and blind area are damaged in places, there are no progressive cracks in the basement, then cosmetic repairs are made. In the event that damage to the blind area is more global or it has moved away from the base, then it should be replaced completely. When the building shrinks and the cracks increase, it is recommended to fully strengthen and strengthen the foundation.

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    What do you need to work?

    For some types of work, reinforcement may be required.

    If you plan to repair the facade of a brick apartment building or a private structure, you first need to free the surface from construction debris, remove the damaged areas on which restoration will be carried out. Depending on the repair technology, prepare the following building materials:

      exhaust mesh; sand, gravel or crushed stone; fittings, dowels; reinforced mesh; roofing felt or geotextile; formwork boards; steel or asbestos pipe; primer, concrete mixture (1 part M500 cement to 3 parts sand); waterproofing mortar; plaster mix .

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    Partial restoration of the basement and blind area

      Clean the parts of the facade of the building that require restoration from dirt, dust, fungus, prime the cracks and recesses. Attach the exhaust mesh with dowels so that it does not protrude from the recess. Then, apply a layer of plaster on the repaired area flush with the plinth. pick up the bricks or parts of them of the right size, and use the mortar to lay the openings. After restoration, the areas are moistened with water and waterproofing slurry is applied in two layers. The next day, only after the wall has completely dried, you can start plastering.

    To repair the blind area, you first need to remove all damaged areas of the material.

    If the blind area has sagged in places, the damaged areas are removed and gravel, sand, crushed stone are added, compacting the soil. A mini-formwork is installed and the surface is poured with concrete at the same level with undamaged areas, carefully leveling. In cases where there is just a crack without subsidence of the base, it is rubbed with cement mortar.

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    Overhaul

    First of all, a new blind area is poured. Having freed up space from the old one, they dig a trench 35-40 cm deep.

    Width is up to you. The lower 20 cm are covered with sand and crushed stone or gravel and compacted tightly. After that, geotextiles or roofing material are spread and sprinkled with sand.

    For binding, holes are drilled in the foundation every 50 cm, and pieces of reinforcement are hammered. A reinforced mesh is welded to it. They put the formwork and pour the structure with concrete.

    The blind area must necessarily have a slope from the house of several degrees to drain moisture.

    Repair of the brick facade is continued after the concrete has hardened. A reinforced mesh is applied to the cleaned surface of the base. There are 2 options for this:

    Dowels can be used to attach the mesh.

    Holes are drilled in the wall, pieces of reinforcement are driven into 1-2 rows and a mesh is tied to them.

    After that, the surface is primed and the formwork is placed, poured with a cement mixture and tamped. The reinforcing mesh is attached with dowels to the wall, also primed twice and put plaster on the wall. After repair, the protection of the plinth can be achieved with the help of facing bricks. This option is used if it is not possible to make the repaired layer wide in thickness.

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    Strengthening the foundation

    Strengthening is carried out partially, primarily at the corners of the building, then in the central parts of the walls.

    A trench is laid under the base of the foundation and rammed with gravel and sand, creating a sole for a new foundation. Old walls must be cleaned of dirt and damaged areas, treated with a primer. Then holes are made with a puncher in 4 rows at a distance of 70-120 cm from each other.

    Anchor bolts or pieces of reinforcement 40 cm long and 12-14 mm in diameter are inserted into them. A frame with a cell size of 20 × 20 × 20 cm is knitted onto the rods or a frame is welded, it should be at a distance of 10 cm from the old structure. After that, formwork is placed and the structure is poured with concrete.

    When considering a house, it is often perceived as a whole, losing sight of seemingly insignificant details. After all, a couple of cracks or a few crumbling bricks on a basement 0.5 m high do not play any significant role, and, nevertheless, even defects that are not conspicuous on it will subsequently lead to a violation of the integrity of the entire structure. Therefore, the repair of the basement of a brick house (actually the basement of any house) should not be taken as additional cosmetic measures during the repair of the building, but as full-fledged work aimed at protecting housing from destruction.

    Basement as a building element

    The plinth is perceived simply as the lower part of the wall, which has a purely aesthetic value. However, it is more correct to consider it as a structural element that is part of the outer wall, and in some cases as the last protective line of the foundation and the entire building.

    Plinth - the lowest elevated part of a building or part of it (for example, columns, racks). It can be part of a foundation that rises above the ground, part of a foundation wall, or the outer part of a basement. It performs several functions:

      structural - is a reinforced part of the building, on which its weight rests; decorative - creates an edge on the wall (can be recessed, protruding or flush), emphasizing the features of the house; protective - protects the walls of the house from the damaging effects of atmospheric phenomena and mechanical damage.

    The plinth should have a sufficient height, at least 30-50 cm, too low / narrow (less than 20 cm) will not fulfill its protective functions, and as a decor detail it will be rather doubtful.

    The lower edge of the plinth is installed at a height of at least 10 cm above ground level, which allows you to create a slope from the wall of the house. This facilitates the runoff of rainwater, and reduces the impact of moisture on the foundation and walls.

    Reasons for the destruction of the base

    The signs indicating the beginning of the destruction of the basement include the formation of cracks, the appearance of a fungus, peeling of plaster, fallen off tiles. All this points to mistakes made at the stage of design, construction or operation of the building and the need to start repairing the basement. There are several reasons for the destruction:

      Shrinkage of the house - may be due to the type of soil, technological errors in the manufacture of the foundation, inconsistency in the design of the foundation and the weight of the building. Impact of groundwater - during the design, the level of groundwater occurrence was not determined or was ignored, waterproofing was not performed at the proper level and, as a result, the building was flooded. This will lead to the gradual destruction of the foundation, the basement and the entire building. Atmospheric phenomena (rain, snow) - as a rule, have a detrimental effect if the blind area was performed incorrectly, of poor quality. Biological corrosion, or rather microbiological, is due to the development of various types of building materials on the surface microorganisms, which include algae (causing green plaque), mold fungus (gray-black plaque) or lichens arising from symbiotic hyperplasia of the fungus and algae (green-black plaque). This phenomenon not only worsens the aesthetics of the plinth, but also extends to the facade, and after a while leads to mechanical damage.

    The impact of some of the above factors can be avoided if you consult with specialists when designing a house.

    Do-it-yourself basement repair

    With some skill and skills in construction, you can repair the basement of the house with your own hands.

    Work is carried out in a certain sequence. First of all, you should choose the time. The best will be the end of spring or the beginning of summer, when the earth has dried up, and the weather has settled, and warm days prevail.

    Then you should clean the surface, and assess the damage.

    To do this, cover the base and blind area with a broom and carefully inspect the surface. At the same time, you can tap it, “thumping” places are to be removed. You should also remove the falling off parts, and walk with a metal brush to remove the exfoliated fragments of the structure.

    If a large part of the basement needs restoration, then instead of repairing it, it is better to equip a new one.

    The blind area should be carefully considered, if it is badly damaged around the entire building, has peeled off the foundation, then it should be completely replaced. The old blind area is removed, cleaned and equipped with a trench with a depth of forty centimeters, then a layer of sand and gravel of 20 cm is poured and rammed. A geotextile is spread over this layer and sprinkled on top with a layer of sand.

    After that, holes are drilled in the foundation (every 50 cm), into which reinforcement is hammered. A reinforcing mesh is attached to it. Formwork is installed and concrete is poured.

    After the concrete has hardened, you can begin to repair the basement.

    If you want to completely redo the base, then around the perimeter of the building you will need to fix the reinforcing mesh. Holes are drilled in the wall for the reinforcement pins, in one or two rows, depending on the given height, into which reinforcement rods are driven in, so long and to such a depth that the mesh mounted on them is in the body of the base. Then the surface is carefully primed with a deep penetration primer (twice), after which the formwork is installed.

    As a formwork, it is best to use laminated, moisture-resistant plywood. After that, concrete is poured into the formwork to evenly distribute and compact it, you can use a reinforcement bar. Formwork can be dismantled after a week.

    If the thickness of the planned layer does not allow for reinforcement, formwork installation, and subsequent concrete pouring, then the basement can be repaired by plastering it.

    On the wall, with the help of dowels, an exhaust mesh is attached, on top of which, for the convenience of work, plaster beacons are installed. Then the surface is primed twice and plaster is applied to it. A cement plaster mortar is used, which is applied in the same way as with ordinary plastering of walls.

    In the case when it is possible to get by with the repair of individual sections, the order of work is slightly different. Areas that need restoration are thoroughly cleaned and primed.

    Then, an exhaust mesh is attached directly to them with dowels, so that it does not protrude from the recess formed at the site of the repaired area. After that, the surface is again treated with soil and leveled with a layer of plaster. To make it more convenient to apply plaster, you can use plaster beacons, and in small areas, you can use undamaged areas of the base as a guide.

    To make the surface homogeneous, after grouting the plaster, you can walk along the joints with a hard sponge dipped in water.

    Restoration and strengthening of the foundation can be seen in this video:

    Plinth protection

    After the plinth is repaired, it is advisable to think about protecting it in the future. Despite the fact that the work on its repair is not extremely difficult, it is still a dubious pleasure to do its restoration every year. There are several options for protecting the basement and, as a result, the foundation - from budget to quite expensive.

    Bituminous mastic - you can buy ready-made or cook it yourself.

    The resin is mixed with diesel fuel and heated over a fire. Then this mixture is covered with a completely dried plinth. The option is cheap, but not practical - the coating will be easily soiled, and over time, a variety of garbage will stick to it and you can forget about the attractive appearance of the house.

    Mosaic plaster is the best option. Consists of small pebbles and adhesive material based on various resins. It has frost resistance, vapor permeability and high resistance to mechanical damage.

    Natural facing materials - mainly granite, sandstone, slate, travertine are used. The option is expensive, but the most attractive in terms of aesthetics. In addition, if the facing work is done by professionals and in high quality, then the plinth will be provided with very good protection due to this.

    Artificial facing materials - perhaps the most common option. Clinker or concrete tiles at a relatively low price have high protective qualities and have an attractive appearance.

    It is best to take care of the safety of the basement of the house at the design stage, but if due to some circumstances this was not enough, and it needs restoration, then there is nothing to worry about. Repairing the basement of a house with your own hands is a completely doable task.

    Old houses are often in need of repair work, among the most difficult is the repair of the plinth and the foundation itself. Such repair work has a number of features that must be determined before work begins.

    Before starting the repair of the basement of the house, it is necessary to clean the crack from debris, and then fill it with rubble or small particles of brick.

    The most common type of such repair can be considered the elimination of the consequences of uneven subsidence of the soil, which harms not only the supporting part of the foundation, but also all the bearing walls of the building.

    Uneven house shrinkage

    Loose or heaving soils are extremely often the result of subsidence of the foundation structure in certain places.

    Most often, such places are located at the corners of the house, which leads to the formation of cracks and delaminations of the basement and walls of the building. It is possible to determine the beginning of uneven shrinkage of the foundation by considering the condition of the blind area around the entire perimeter of the house. In places where the soil subsides, the blind area will be cracked, which is a signal for further repair-type actions.

    In some cases, the shrinkage of the foundation may be only temporary. After the supporting base of the structure reaches a solid area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe soil, shrinkage will stop by itself, but this happens extremely rarely.

    Most often, the house continues to sag in certain places, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the foundation structure, the basement and the entire building. The consequence of such an action can be not only the impact of the environment, but also errors and shortcomings of the developer himself.

    For example, if a poor-quality sewerage or water supply system was organized in the house, which often leaked, this could lead to the saturation of the soil near the foundation with water, which froze in winter. Such a cycle leads to heaving of the soil above the considered level, and as a result, it harms the entire structure of the basement of the house. In addition, during the initial construction of the house, fatal mistakes could have been made associated with poor-quality mortar or the use of incorrect foundation construction technology.

    Petr Kravets

    Reading time: 4 minutes

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    A major overhaul of a basement in an apartment building or a partial restoration of the foundation can only be carried out after adjustments have been made to the design documentation of the building.

    Partial repair of basements implies the elimination of defects in the base in the form of cracks, and major repairs - the laying of a new basement, which is accompanied by high labor costs and significant financial costs when an estimate is made for the work.

    Overhaul in the basement of an apartment building is done after a thorough examination of all surfaces, and proven techniques and special tools are used.

    This stage is also typical for a private house, only no commission is created in it, and all work is carried out, as a rule, independently or by specialists, under a contract of employment.

    Based on the results of such examinations, the participants draw up an act - a technical report, which indicates the level of residual strength, resistance to frost and the effects of aggressive environmental factors. The same parameters are checked in a private house.

    The base, which has cracks in the bearing walls or distortions in the partitions, is recognized as faulty. In a private house with a basement or cellar, such defects lead to the destruction of the foundation of the house, since moisture from the inside increases any damage.

    As a rule, the reasons for subsidence of the base are changes in the hydrogeological parameters of the soil, as well as the physical and mechanical parameters of its new properties.

    Construction work taking place nearby may also have an impact. When performing a major overhaul of the basement of an apartment building, the base is completely renewed, expanded or deepened, if redistribution of the load on the sole is necessary.

    It is quite possible that part of the brick house begins to collapse. One and a half meter width can diverge in width or narrow under the influence of various deformations.

    From the side, the collapse of the finish and the violation of materials in the foundation are noticeable. Bricks, concrete slabs, or stone elements can fall out of a cast-in-place wall. The destruction of the cement layer, which binds the house like a belt, is the most dangerous case of destruction.

    In order to get rid of such problems and their consequences, it is necessary to eliminate the defects that have appeared in time, until the house has become uninhabitable. Doing a major overhaul of basements is always more difficult than regularly carrying out partial restoration of the basement.

    You can either hire a construction team, specialists with the necessary level of experience in carrying out such work in a multi-storey building, or do everything yourself, having studied the features of how to repair the basement of a house with your own hands.

    In order to avoid damage to the base materials and their destruction, it is necessary to repair the plinth in time. Usually it is sufficient to close up seams and cracks, to plaster surfaces, but sometimes it is necessary to change individual elements of a monolithic wall.

    The sequence of work in this case is as follows:

    • The lower part of the wall is freed from the adjacent earth, there should be no contact with the soil;
    • All poorly attached fragments of the plaster layer are removed, as well as voids that can be identified by lightly tapping on the surface. The departed finish is removed;
    • The surface is cleaned from dirt and dust, it is most convenient to do this with a wire brush;
    • Window openings and other elements that should not be contaminated are closed with masking tape;
    • Masonry defects are moistened before repair work so that there is better contact between the plaster mixture and the surface;
    • To fill the voids, you need to select brick fragments of the desired size, you can cut them out of aerated concrete blocks;
    • The voids of the brick base are filled with block elements, clinging to each other with a cement mixture;
    • Immediately before applying the plaster, it is abundantly moistened
    • A solution is being prepared to protect against water, such a waterproofing layer will reliably protect the base from leaks at the level of the capillaries of the base material;
    • The waterproofing mixture is applied to the restored surface areas in several passes, waiting for the first layer to set;
    • The layers dry out within one day, so work continues the next day;
    • A mortar for plaster is being made;
    • The plastering mixture is applied in two layers, the first of which is placed 10 millimeters thick, the movements with a spatula should be circular;
    • For the special smoothness of the walls, plaster strips can be used, during the installation of which a building level is attached. Most often, wood is chosen as the material for such starting strips;
    • A repeated plaster layer is applied in 15-20 mm, removing the excess with a plank;
    • The surface is left to dry for 72 hours;
    • The exact alignment of the finish layer will be an intact layer of previous plaster of the rest of the basement;
    • As soon as the surface dries, it is leveled again;
    • To decorate the corners, plaster strips are used, which are attached to the corners and level the basement walls, after which the strip can be removed and the corner shaped with a spatula;
    • The final stage of the work will be the processing of all surfaces that touch the ground. You can use bituminous mastic or sludge for waterproofing.

    Carrying out repair work by the management company

    All work on the regular repair of the basement of the house is included in the calculation of utilities for the population living in the house.

    In particular, the following types of work for the repair of the basement are provided to the estimator for calculation:

    • Opening the seams and cracks of the basement floor with their subsequent elimination;
    • Screed or relaying the base for leveling the walls;
    • Repair of the waterproofing of the entire basement or the part located above the foundation;
    • Arrangement of a basement for equipment or ventilation;
    • Restoration, repair or replacement of products;
    • Replacement of base sections when wooden houses are being repaired;
    • Repair of the blind area and drainage system near the house along the perimeter;
    • Repair of pits and entrance groups of the house.

    If the management company does not respond to complaints from the residents of the house about damage to the foundation, a written appeal is written.

    One copy remains in the public reception of the local government, and the second is registered in the branch of the management company. The terms for consideration of such complaints are no more than 15 days from the date of receipt.

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