Laying ceramic floor tiles. Step by step instructions for laying tiles on the floor. Laying floor tiles: preparatory process

No matter how diverse the assortment of available finishing materials pleases today, ceramic tiles, although they belong to the respectable "veterans" construction market, not in a hurry to give up the leading positions in popularity. It occupies a very specific "niche" - this material, due to its unique performance characteristics, is used for external and outdoor work, for residential and technical premises, for finishing floors and walls, facades and hydraulic structures, adjoining buildings and even garden design elements.

Tiles have practically no competitors in the field of interior decoration with a pronounced high level of humidity - bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. The strength of ceramics allows it to withstand high loads, therefore, when facing floors in such rooms, preference is most often given to it, since, with all its positive qualities, it is also very affordable. And one more important advantage is the relative ease of installation: if you thoroughly understand the intricacies of how to lay tiles on the floor, fill your hand a little, show diligence, then you can easily cope with such work on your own.

But before taking on styling issues, it would be logical to consider the problems of its proper selection.

When going to the store to select and purchase the necessary material, the landlord should “arm himself” with basic knowledge about which tiles are usually on sale.

Choose a tile for the floor with an eye solely on it decorative qualities is an extremely frivolous approach. In a good salon-shop, trained sales assistants can be of great help, who will tell you which tile model is intended for which purpose. But it’s better to be able to navigate in icons and pictograms, which can tell a lot by themselves. Most common characters that may occur are shown in the table:

1 - This is a tile with pronounced frost-resistant qualities. It is suitable for the floor of the porch, veranda, balcony or loggia. It makes no sense to spend money on the purchase of such a tile for further flooring in a heated room.

2 - Foot on an inclined plane - a symbol of the anti-slip qualities of the tile. For rooms with high humidity(bathroom, kitchen) or for hallways, where moisture is often brought in from the street on shoes - a very important criterion. Often such an icon is accompanied by a digital indicator - this is the coefficient of friction. For these premises, the best choice would be slightly rough tiles with a specified coefficient of at least 0.75.

3 - A sign in the form of a diamond (sometimes found with the image of a drill) - the tile has increased characteristics of surface strength, resistance to accented impacts. Good quality for the floor in the kitchen - accidentally dropped dishes will not cause serious damage to the coating.

4 - This pictogram is always accompanied by numerical value is the thickness ceramic tiles. For laying on the floor, a material with a thickness of about 7 - 8 mm is usually purchased.

5 - Bending strength of a single tile. This parameter is determined according to the results of bench tests, and the higher it is, the better the material (for example, for porcelain stoneware, this indicator is much higher than for ordinary tiles). However, tiles on the floor should be laid so that the bending load is minimal - tightly and evenly to the surface, without air bubbles, shells, etc. .

6 - The palm-shaped icon indicates that this ceramic tile is intended exclusively for walls. No matter how beautiful and durable it may seem, it is impossible to purchase it for laying on the floor.

7 - But the image of the footprint from the boot speaks for itself - this tile is designed specifically for the floor.

8 or 16 are indicators of the resistance of ceramic tiles to abrasive, abrasive loads. According to the international standard PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7), there are 5 wear classes:

Wear class according to PE1 (EN ISO 105645.7)	Application area
I	Such tiles are suitable for rooms with a minimum load, where there is never an intensive movement of people (for example, a bathroom, a bathroom). In such premises, street shoes are not worn, and they do not have close proximity to the exit to the street.
II	This tile is for rooms where people also wear slippers, but the traffic intensity is already somewhat higher.
III	The wear resistance of this class allows the use of ceramic tiles in hallways or kitchens.
IV	High-strength tiles for rooms and halls with heavy traffic - entrances, shops, public places, offices, etc. In the conditions of apartments or private houses, it makes no sense to apply
V	The highest class of abrasion resistance, applicable to coatings with extremely high intensity of movement of people and even some types of vehicles. Scope of application - stations, large supermarkets, warehouses, industrial premises, etc.

9 - This pictogram indicates that the ceramic tile has undergone a double firing procedure. Such material usually has a glossy glazed surface, and is more suitable for laying on walls. In addition, the technology of double firing implies an increased porosity of ceramics - and this is a decrease in its mechanical strength and increased water absorption.

10 - The icon in the form of a chemical flask indicates the increased resistance of the tile surface to acids, alkalis, and other aggressive substances, including any type of household chemicals. The letter indicator of this property of the material is "AA".

11 - If you come across such an icon, then you need to be careful in choosing a tile - in one box there can be tiles of various shades.

12 – Notwhich expensive types of ceramic tiles can be produced with the inclusion of precious metals in their composition: silver (Ag), gold (Au) or even platinum (Pt).

Pictograms 13 ÷ 15 inform about the parameters of the factory packaging of ceramic tiles. So, in the example above, symbol 13 indicates that the gross weight of the box is 19.00 kilograms, symbol 14 indicates that one package is enough for 1.42 m² of floor space, and symbol 16 indicates that 24 tiles are packed in a box.

The pictograms indicated in the table under numbers from 17 to 21 will tell you about some specific properties of the material. Such ceramic tiles are designed for special operating conditions. It could be train stations. and and airports, medical facilities, industrial enterprises, hotels, sports facilities. It makes no sense to purchase such tiles for flooring in a private house or apartment.

Other points not to be overlooked:

• If the tiles are planned to be laid on the floor of a bathroom, shower room, kitchen or other room with high humidity, then a material with a minimum (not higher than 3%) water absorption coefficient is required.
• The linear dimensions (length and width) of the tile also matter. Of course, the larger the tile, the faster it can be laid. However, for rooms with a small area and complex floor shapes, tiles that are too large will not work - there will be a lot of waste. Yes, and large tiles in such little rooms will look somewhat ridiculous. In addition, we must not forget that carefully laying large tiles is much more difficult.
• If you purchase several packs of ceramic tiles, you must definitely select the goods of one batch.

This is necessary for two reasons:

- Firstly, even a completely identical tile model, but from different batches, may have slight deviations in shade. In the conditions of the store, it is quite possible that it will not even be noticeable. However, after laying such a coating on the floor and under normal lighting, such a difference can greatly spoil the intended interior appearance of the room.

Different batches may also differ in calibration - the linear dimensions of the tile

- Secondly, fluctuations in the linear dimensions of the tiles are not excluded. It is clear that the cutting of material in production is carried out under the control of precise electronics. But it still remains ceramics, and there may be small errors, so the finished products must be calibrated. There must always be tiles of the same size in one batch, and the difference between different batches can even be a few millimeters. When laying such a tile on the floor, especially in large areas, there may be inconsistencies noticeable to the naked eye.

• Be sure to check the packaging for broken, cracked tiles or having chips on the surface. Salespeople may argue that marriage is inevitable and must be accepted. No, you don't, you pay your money for a quality product.
• It is generally accepted that a certain reserve should be purchased, 10% more than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises. This will be spent on “cuts” and in cases of compensation for some unfortunate misunderstandings. It must be remembered that it will not always be possible to buy additional tiles later to make up for the missing quantity - this has already been mentioned when talking about batches.

By the way, if it is planned to lay tiles, then the reserve can even be slightly increased - up to 15%. With this technology, it is more difficult to fit the material along the walls, there is more waste and, in addition, the probability of making some mistakes, but inexperience, is much higher.

Prices for ceramic tiles

Ceramic tile

How to lay tiles on a concrete floor

The process of facing the floor with ceramic tiles can be divided into four main stages:

• Surface preparation for laying.
• Holding necessary markup, drawing up a scheme of work.
• Laying ceramic tiles on adhesive mortar.
• and finishing work.

Preparing the floor surface for tiling

The requirements for the base for laying tiles, in principle, are simple - it must be strong, stable, and provide good adhesion with the adhesive composition. How is this achieved?

If we are talking about a concrete base, then first it is necessary to make a thorough revision of the old screed, on which it is planned to lay the tiles. No need to be lazy - you should tap every centimeter of the floor to make sure there are no unstable areas.

• First of all, its horizontalness is checked - if this condition is not met, then pouring a new screed simply cannot be avoided. If the evenness is satisfactory (differences are not more than 2-3 mm), then the old coating can still serve, provided, of course, it is stable.
• If, during the control inspection, places of screed peeling, concrete crumbling, deep oiling are revealed, they must be removed up to the “healthy” surface, both in width and in depth. Wide cracks and crevices need to be cut to a width of up to 10 - 15 mm.
• There should be no traces of paint, oil products, fats, remnants of the old coating on the surface - everything is scraped off to clean concrete.
• All protrusions are necessarily cut down - if you can sometimes look at a slight recess “through your fingers”, since it will still be filled with glue during the masonry process, then even the smallest tubercle will make even laying simply impossible.
• After that, a thorough cleaning with dedusting of the surface is carried out. In order for the repair suction to lie well, it is necessary to prime all the places to be repaired and allow the primer to dry completely.
• A repair composition is being prepared - it can be a “classic” cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1: 3, but it will dry for a long time.

The finished and completely frozen screed is also primed twice, after which you can proceed to further work.

Prices for various types of screeds and self-leveling floors

Screeds and self-leveling floors

Floor marking for laying ceramic tiles

Ceramic tiles should become a decoration of the room, and this will be possible only if its location on the floor is planned correctly. Carelessly, obliquely laid tile can complete the interior

There are many methods and methods for placing ceramic tiles on the floor - it is impossible to consider all of them on the scale of this article - this is a topic for a separate publication. But even the simplest, "classic" method requires precision and accuracy.

Starting to plan laying from the wall is very risky, since the slightest flaw will grow with each successive row, and it will be very difficult to eliminate it. Therefore, the reference lines and the first rows of tiles are usually located approximately in the center of the room.

The first reference line is usually drawn along the room. To do this, in two places, at the beginning and at the end, the distance between opposite walls is carefully measured and midpoints are applied. They are connected straight (usually done with a coated cord), and receive a longitudinal baseline.

Now you need to draw the second, perpendicular to the first, also approximately in the middle of the room. It is very important that the strictest perpendicularity be observed. In order to avoid mistakes, and this is quite possible when using a square and a ruler, you should definitely check the right angle using the formula of the famous "Egyptian triangle": 3² + 4² = 5². According to the Pythagorean theorem, this is a triangle with legs that are multiples of 3 and 4, and a hypotenuse that is a multiple of 5.

For example, we measure from the point of intersection of the leg 900 and 1200 mm. We connect the marked points with a segment, and its length should be exactly 1500 mm - no more no less.

When the lines are drawn and their perpendicularity is checked, you can think about how to place the rows of tiles and where to start laying out. We remember that the drawn reference lines are not at all a “dogma” for the beginning of masonry - it will not be difficult for them to make a parallel transfer in any direction.

For example, if the front door is spacious room is located exactly in the center, then you can lay out the first rows of tiles in this way - along the laid reference lines. The principle is as follows - so that when entering the room, a flat area is presented to the eye, without cuts and fitting. (see pos. "a" in the figure).

But in a small room, with an offset to the edge (pos. "b"), and even possibly having a complex shape or stationary obstacles, the beginning of masonry can be smstyle to a free "patch" - from here it will be much more convenient to work in all directions, but it will be the entrance that will turn out to be the "front door".

In any case, you should never be lazy - you should carry out the control laying of the central longitudinal and transverse rows of ceramic tiles "dry", without using mortar, but leaving the planned gap between adjacent tiles.

Do not neglect the initial "dry" laying of tiles - this will allow you to evaluate the options for its location

Such a simple procedure will allow you to visually assess the future picture, measure the distances, and finally decide on the laying scheme, that is, stop at one of the principles:

1 - in a small room, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen, you can take two walls from the entrance (green arrows) as the "starting line", provided that they are exactly perpendicular. In this case, the entire visible part of the room will be lined with whole tiles, and the cut edges will be hidden under furniture or plumbing fixtures.

2 - masonry is carried out from the center in such a way as to place the maximum possible number of whole tiles on the floor, leaving narrow sections for supplementing with fragments (brown arrows). Beneficial in terms of material savings. However, for reasons of masonry quality, it is advisable to leave sections not narrower than ⅓ of the tile width near the walls.

3 - the layout looks a little more impressive with a minimum number of whole tiles in a row, but with extended fragments along the walls (blue arrows). Such a coating looks more complete, and from an operational point of view, it is more reliable than No. 2.

4 - laying diagonally - will help hide the curvature of the room. Among the disadvantages is a more complex execution, especially in terms of preliminary marking and fitting of tile fragments, more material goes to waste.

If you have decided on this, then you should immediately outline what scheme will work is being done- from the far corner to the entrance, or by dividing the space into several areas in straight stacked rows, with their subsequent filling.

“Filling” the space can also be done in different ways. So, some masters are laying in order. Others prefer the "ladder" scheme with a consistent increase in the number of rows being laid at the same time.

"Filling" the space can be performed linearly, or, as shown in the figure, stepwise

By the way, there are supporters of laying ceramic tiles on the floor “in a run” or even randomly - sometimes this is part of the design plan for decorating the room. But in the conditions of an ordinary house, they still prefer to confine themselves to a direct laying pattern, “seam to seam”.

Laying tiles on the floor

• So, we are preparing the necessary tools and materials for laying.

- For work, you will need spatulas, ordinary, from 100 to 250 mm wide, and notched, with a furrow height of 8 - 10 mm. For grouting, it’s a good idea to get an elastic rubber spatula.

- You will need a construction mixer or a drill with a nozzle for mixing tiles with an appropriate container for the same purpose.

- Always have a building level at hand.

- In some cases, it will be necessary to apply force to lay the tile in place. It is convenient to use a rubber mallet for this purpose.

- You should immediately think about how the tiles will be cut (more on this below).

- It is necessary to create a supply of calibration crosses of the required thickness, plastic wedges for height alignment.

- In order not to carry dirt, you need to have a supply of clean rags, a sponge for wiping the solution from the front surface of the tile.

• Probably, in our time, no one is already thinking about making tile adhesive on their own - you can always buy it in a store. When choosing, you need to control the purpose of the composition - in addition to the usual, intended for most interiors, there are specialized mixtures, intended for rooms with high humidity conditions, for the street, especially resistant or for so-called "complex surfaces", for the "warm floor" system, etc.

The glue is diluted by gradually adding a dry mixture to the amount of water specified in the instructions, with constant stirring with the help of a mixer or drill. The composition should turn out to be absolutely homogeneous, without lumps, of a sufficiently dense consistency - so that the ridges created by a notched trowel do not spread.

After obtaining the consistency of the composition necessary for work, it is left to “ripen” for 5 minutes, then mixed again for 2 ÷ 3 minutes - and you can start laying.

Too much mortar should not be prepared at once, especially if there is no experience in laying ceramic tiles. The term of his "life" is limited - this must be indicated in his instructions. If the glue begins to noticeably thicken during operation, then you will have to throw it away - you cannot dilute it with water again - it will lose its qualities.

• Beginning masters, apparently having heard a lot of old, irrelevant advice or having read about it somewhere, soak the tile in water before laying it on the floor. In doing so, they are committing a grave mistake.

A similar approach is possible if the tile is laid on a conventional cement-sand mortar, and even then - not in all cases. And all modern building mixtures - adhesives for ceramic tiles, are designed for application precisely on a dry surface. Excess water will significantly reduce the performance of the adhesive, and the tile will begin to “dance” and fall off over time.

Therefore, before laying the first tile, carefully read the instructions for use of the purchased tile adhesive again - everything is probably indicated there.

• Where to apply glue - on the floor, or on the tiles? There is no unanimity of opinion on this issue. Someone likes to apply on the tile - the marking lines on the floor remain intact.

On the other hand, it is more convenient to immediately smear a significant area of ​​​​the floor, and then concentrate on laying the tiles evenly (of course, if you have some experience, otherwise you may not have time).

Another option is to pre-glue the floor surface with glue.

There is a third tip - to coat both here and there, but lay the tiles in such a way that the direction of the ridges made with a notched trowel on the floor and on the tile is perpendicular - this way all cavities are guaranteed to be filled, maximum adhesion is ensured.

• After smearing with glue, the tile is laid on the surface in the right place, tightly pressed against the floor, its location relative to the reference lines is controlled, as well as the horizontalness of its upper plane in the longitudinal and transverse directions.
• Work continues in the same order, with obligatory installation calibration crosses - they will clearly maintain the required gap between the tiles.

When fitting each tile, its horizontalness must be checked using the building level. The necessary adjustments are immediately made - adding or removing mortar, inserting a small wedge, etc.

• It is necessary to ensure that there is no excess glue left in the tile gap - this space will be needed to fill the joints. So it is better to remove the glue immediately, as it will be very difficult to do later. Together so, from the front surface of the tile, immediately remove stains of the solution with a rag or sponge, preventing them from drying out.
• Distance crosses are left between the tiles until the initial setting of the mortar. Then, when the tile has already acquired immobility, the crosses must be removed - it is impossible to leave them in the seams until the glue has completely solidified, since then there will be difficulties with extraction.

Video: a visual lesson on laying tiles on the floor

• Very convenient to use are modern devices for quickly laying out tiles - the so-called leveling systems. The kit includes stand clamps (disposable elements) and wedges (can be reused).

- After the first tile is laid on the glue, well pressed and inserted in level, two clamps are installed on each of its sides, so that they go under the tile with their heel. The thickness of the leg of the clamp will determine the size of the seam. Clamps are installed at a distance of approximately 50 mm from the corner.

Clamps installed...

Then another tile is laid. The wide heel of the clip is also under it.

... then the next tile is laid ...

A wedge is inserted and threaded to the limit into the clamp, where it will be fixed by a ribbed surface on the hooks. Very important - the wedges are always inserted from the side of the previously laid and leveled tiles.

... wedges are inserted all the way and fully fixed.

- Thus, the lower, even edge of the wedge "pulls" the surface of the next tile ideally into the plane of the already laid one. True, no one cancels control with the help of a level.

- The wedges should remain in this position until the glue has completely dried. Then they are removed with light side impacts using a rubber mallet. The design of the polymer clamps is such that they can withstand tensile stress, but immediately break off when exposed to a fracture. Below, under the tiles, remain only broken heels.

- Wedges, as already mentioned, can be used further, and broken hooks are disposed of.

Video: laying tiles with a tile leveling system

Tile cutting

Previously, it was only about laying a whole tile, but in practice there are never cases where everything is limited to this. So, now it's time to consider the problem of cutting tiles.

• Installation of fragments is recommended not immediately, but a day after the main part of the floor. During this time, the glue will already grab well, and it will be possible to accurately measure the required dimensions.
• When marking the tile poses, cutting should not be forgotten about the spacing between the seams - it should definitely be corrected for.
• There are several ways to cut ceramic tiles:

1. The most convenient way is with a tile cutter, a desktop tool that gives a smooth and accurate cut. It is enough to lay the tile with a marking line along the central ledge, draw the roller away from you with force along the surface of the tile, and then, resting the paws on the surface of the tile on both sides of the drawn line, press the lever down.

The most convenient tool is a tile cutter

With even a small experience of the master, there is practically no marriage in such cutting.

2. A manual tile cutter is a fairly convenient tool, but it already requires more dexterity from the worker.

First, the roller is drawn along the intended line of risk. Then the tile is clamped so that the tile cutter is exactly on top along the axis of the line cutting. Hand movement - and the tile should be divided into two parts.

Similarly, cutting is carried out using a conventional glass cutter, with the only difference being that the breaking is carried out on the edge of the workbench, or with the help of a line placed on the bottom of the workbench. cutting metal rod (nail or wire).

With all the advantages of manual and desktop tile cutters, they allow cutting tiles exclusively in a straight line.

3. grinder with a diamond disc - this approach is especially good when cutting tiles at an angle or creating complex shapes is required. The main difficulty here is to ensure that the tile is securely fixed when working with a grinder so that it does not fly out or crack.

Tiles can be precisely cut to size with a diamond grinder

The tile can be cut right through - when details of a complex configuration are required. If straight long sections are cut off, then you can only violate the integrity of the upper enamel layer - then it will not be difficult to break the tile along the intended line.

Particular attention to safety precautions - be sure to cover your eyes and face with a mask, so how not excluded scattering of small hot fragments of ceramics.

4. small plots tiles can be removed with pliers.

In this case, in the area to be removed, it is advisable to apply a fine mesh with a glass cutter roller. Then, with tongs, very small fragments are carefully broken out, gradually bringing the tile to the desired size.

If necessary, any minor unevenness left after cutting can be removed with a block wrapped with coarse (80) sandpaper. With large teeth, they can be “corrected” with pliers. If a pronounced sharp edge remains, then it is better to process it with a round file first.

The process of laying cut fragments, in fact, is no different from what was described above.

When performing work on cutting tiles and when laying its fragments, special care should be taken. Ceramics can crack and not along the intended line, which means that there is a high probability of getting a cut hand injury when pressed. In addition, broken edges can have extremely sharp edges that can cause very deep cuts. All work should only be done with protective gloves.

Seam sealing

After the entire floor area is covered with ceramic tiles, you can proceed to grouting.

• First of all, it is necessary to check the condition of the seams again - they must be cleaned to the full depth and width.
• getting ready jointing solution - grout. It can be cement-based or a two-component epoxy.

1. AT living conditions more often cement grouts are used (the so-called class FROMG 2 according to EN 13888).

Cement grout for joints

They are sold in stores in the form of hermetically packed dry mixes, they can have different tints - there is always the opportunity to choose the color that is most suitable for the overall design. They are closed to the desired consistency most often with water. But for rooms with high humidity or for floors with a high level of load, it is still recommended to use a special latex additive to dilute the composition - the floor surface will only benefit from this.

2. Recently, epoxy-based grouts (class RG according to EN 13888) are rapidly gaining popularity. These are two-component compounds that are prepared immediately before the start of work on filling the joints.

The “life” of such a composition is short, so it is prepared in small portions in order to be guaranteed to work out before hardening.

Epoxy grouts are more durable, resistant to chemicals, they are much more ductile and will not crack over time. These compositions have a much wider range of shades (including bright, saturated colors), and besides, many similar grouts are sold with special effects - sparkles, fluorescent glow, etc.

The only significant drawback of epoxy grouts (except for a certain difficulty with proper preparation working composition) - this is still a very high price, very limiting the scope of their use.

• The finished composition is typed on a rubber spatula or rubber grater and applied with force to the seam area, usually in the direction of 45 degrees from the seam line. Such a trajectory will provide the most complete and dense filling of the inter-seam space.

• After the joints are filled, it is necessary to immediately remove the excess mixture from the surface of the tile - later this will be much more difficult to do. Usually this is started when the grout remaining on the surface of the tile has appeared white coating- it began to dry out (usually after 20 - 30 minutes).

To do this, take a foam sponge, well washed and wrung out, and remove the remains of the fugue with it. The movements are usually the same as when grouting - 45 degrees to the seam line. At the same time, one should try not to touch the seams so as not to wash the puffer out of there. The sponge should be thoroughly rinsed as often as possible, with a constant change of water. By the way, water plays a dual role here - it washes away dirt and participates in the hydration of the cement composition of the grout.

After 3 — 4 hours, you can rinse the surface again with a foam sponge. Then, when the floor dries after washing, the remaining light cement coating is easy to remove by wiping the tiles with a dry, clean, soft cloth.

After that, the ceramic tile will already take on its “ceremonial” appearance, and it will be possible to say that the process of laying it is completed.

Prices for grout for seams

Grout for joints

Video: option for grouting on a tiled floor

However, if the lining was carried out in a room with high humidity or with intense loads on the surface, then it is recommended to carry out one more simple operation - to coat the seams water repellent.

This is done very simply - the composition is abundantly applied to the seams with a thin brush. Such treatment will give the composition of the fugue water-repellent properties, which will significantly increase the service life of the ceramic coating, prevent dampness from accumulating in these places, and facilitate cleaning.

When the water repellent is absorbed and dries, you can restore the final order. It is necessary to thoroughly rinse the floor with clean water - and we can assume that the entire multi-stage process of laying tiles on the floor is over!

Have you decided to make a long-awaited renovation in your apartment and lay out the floor with ceramic tiles? It remains to buy a suitable tile and decide on the method of laying it.

Important! When choosing ceramic tiles consider the size and shape of the room. Prepare the surface: level all loose places, plaster, prime. Depending on the tile laying option, calculate its consumption with a margin of 10%. Do not forget to take into account the distance between the tiles (seam).

Before you begin to develop a scheme for laying tiles on the floor, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with its main methods.

Video: how to choose a styling method floor tiles

1. Traditional

This is the most common way. Provides for the location of ceramic tiles parallel to the floor and tightly to each other in even rows. The key to the quality of the cladding is evenness. Usually, square tiles are used to create such a pattern, but tiles will also look good. rectangular shape.

The traditional way of laying tiles

Drawing features. Traditional masonry will have an unusual and original look if you use tiles of different colors. This is the easiest and at the same time the fastest way to lay tiles, but some important points should be considered:

• at the slightest factory defect in the tile or careless laying, all irregularities and inaccuracies will sharply rush into the eyes;
• the facing of this option looks a bit monotonous;
• the best way is only for seamless ceramic tiles.

Stacking technology. It is important to observe the uniformity of laying, as well as horizontal and vertical dimensions seams. Does not require professional training and skill.

2. Diagonal

This is the most beautiful and difficult option, despite the fact that the basic styling skills serve as the basis for the diagonal method. The difficulty lies in the diagonal axes along which the floor tiles are located. Certain skills, significant material and time costs require mandatory cutting of tiles, which also creates difficulties when facing in this way.

Diagonal tile laying

The advantage of diagonal masonry is the ability to perfectly hide the curvature of the surface. It is used most often for facing non-standard and small-sized surfaces.

Drawing features. When laying, the grid of the pattern should be located at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor. Ideal for square tiles. The pattern looks very interesting even when using plain ceramic tiles.

It is necessary to remember about the large amount of waste, since the tiles adjacent to the walls must be cut. This is the best option, hiding all the errors of an uneven floor. The room visually expands.

Stacking technology. It is important to remember the exact calculation of the diagonal pattern. Before laying, the floor surface should be thoroughly cleaned of paint, linoleum, wood particles, then it should be primed. Ceramic tiles are much easier to install on a perfectly flat floor, while using a minimum of glue.

The first row is laid in the traditional direct way using a rectangular tile, the length of which is equal to the diagonal of the main square tiles. The second row is laid from pre-cut tiled triangles (downward hypotenuse). All subsequent rows can be laid in horizontal rows, following the principle of diagonal layout.

3. Offset

This method resembles brickwork. Quite common and original way laying tiles on the floor. Rectangular plain tiles look best, although square ones are often laid. Offset cladding will create a historic atmosphere for your space. A suitable option for avoiding general monotony and hiding small defects.

The way of laying tiles with offset (offset)

Photo: laying contrasting tiles with offset

Drawing features. Brickwork and corridor, giving the room originality. Staggered laying is carried out only in horizontal rows, and each tile of the next row is laid so that its middle coincides with the seam of the previous row.

4. Herringbone styling

The method consists in laying ceramic tiles in the form of parquet. Such a floor looks very interesting and unusual. For laying "Christmas trees" use rectangular tiles. There are two options for such a laying scheme:

Laying herringbone tiles

Laying tiles on the floor is an extremely popular solution for decorating many rooms. However, not everyone knows that you can lay tiles different ways, and in the process of working with different bases, certain nuances must be taken into account. Consider how to lay tiles on the floor: laying methods, technology features and the specifics of choosing the right material.

Many owners devote a lot of time and attention to choosing the right finishing material, focusing on its color, texture and size. Of course, it is extremely important to choose a tile of the right size so that it is commensurate with the room, but the question of choosing a laying method should also not be left aside. Consider all popular options.

The traditional way of laying tiles on the floor: rules and features

The traditional method got its name because it is used many times more often than all the others. Such popularity is due to the ease of installation, as well as the ability to use both square and rectangular tiles. In this case, the elements are laid in even rows parallel to the floor. At the same time, it is extremely important to place them as close as possible to each other and to observe an even arrangement of rows.

Useful advice! To give the traditional way of laying an unusual look, you can use multi-colored tiles. This option will make the coating original, but at the same time it will allow you to maintain a high speed of all necessary work.

Despite all its simplicity, this method, like others, has certain nuances that must be taken into account even before laying work begins:

• all defects, irregularities and other factory defects will be very noticeable if the tiles are laid in this way. Therefore, you must either carefully examine each element and eliminate inappropriate ones, or choose another, less demanding method;
• if the lining is made with tiles of the same color, then the coating will look rather monotonous. This is not to say that this is a disadvantage, but it is worth considering;
• this option is well suited only for seamless ceramic tiles.

Although laying tiles on the floor in the traditional way can be done independently and in the absence of special skills, you still have to pay attention to the issue of uniformity of the laying, as well as the size of the joints (both vertical and horizontal).

How to lay tiles diagonally: the most beautiful way of laying

Laying tiles on the floor diagonally can rightfully be called the most beautiful of all options. But at the same time, the technology of its laying is the most complex, although at first glance it may seem that the basis is a simple traditional way. The main difficulty in this case is that it is necessary to accurately mark the diagonal axes, which will serve as guidelines for laying out the tiles.

Moreover, a lot of time and effort will be required to properly cut the tiles, which also presents additional difficulties in the process of laying tiles in this way. However, thanks to this method, it is possible to hide almost any surface irregularity. This option looks especially good when facing the floor. small spaces.

Important! During installation, the grid of the pattern must be placed at a 45 degree angle, so only tiles are suitable for this method. square shape. This must be taken into account before you lay the tiles in the bathroom yourself in this way.

Interestingly, the drawing itself is quite self-sufficient, and even if a plain tile is used, it always looks extremely interesting. But before laying tiles in this way, you need to understand that in the process you always get a lot of scraps. And this may not please the economical owner who does not want to overpay for beauty, but if we are talking about the need to visually expand the room or hide irregularities, then this method is undoubtedly the best.

As already mentioned, the main difficulty of this method is the calculation of the diagonal scheme. In addition, a thorough surface preparation must be carried out by dismantling the old coating, removing paint residues and priming the base before laying the tiles. So you can arrange the tiles as evenly as possible, spending less adhesive solution on this.

Laying the first row is done in the traditional way and for this, rectangular tiles are used. At the same time, the length of its diagonal must correspond to the diagonal of the square tiles that will be used as the main ones. Laying the second row is done using pre-prepared tiled triangles. Further, everything is quite simple - the rows are stacked according to the principle of diagonal layout in horizontal rows.

The technology of laying tiles on the floor with an offset (in a run)

Perhaps most of all, this method resembles brickwork. This solution looks original and is used quite often. In this case, a plain rectangular tile will look best in this case, although you can often find the use of square tiles.

If, when choosing how to lay tiles in the bathroom, you preferred this option, then with its help you can solve two more additional problems - hide minor defects, and also make the design of the floor interesting and original. And with the right choice color solution, tiles laid in a run-up can give the room a special atmosphere. According to the recommendations of experts, this method is best suited for decorating rooms such as a kitchen or a corridor.

As for the features of the technology of laying tiles on the floor, it is important to know that the tiles must be laid in horizontal rows, and each element of the next row must be located so that its middle coincides with the seam of the previous row.

Important! It cannot be said that the laying procedure itself is something significantly different from the traditional one, however, there is one feature - the thickness of all seams must be the same.

As an unusual solution, we can consider examples when laying with an offset is done diagonally, that is, at an angle of 45 degrees relative to the wall. But in this case, it is extremely important to take care that the surface is prepared in advance and is as even as possible. Otherwise, the desired effect will not be achieved.

You need to start laying with the location of the lighthouse plates in the corners of the room. So it will be possible to determine the level of the floor and correct the existing defects. After that, the screed is moistened with water and proceed directly to laying tiles using a solution. They do it in rows and along the lighthouse.

Then the masonry is leveled with a hammer, and the lighthouse slabs are removed. After complete drying, which can take from two to three days, the seams are filled with a grout or cement.

How to lay tiles on the floor "herringbone": options and technology

The herringbone flooring method is most often used for parquet. This option looks very unusual, especially if you use tiles instead of oblong wooden elements. Naturally, only rectangular tiles are suitable for this purpose.

There are two options for laying herringbone tiles:

• simple, which is no different from how it is done in the case of laying parquet;
• with an attachment, for which small insert tiles are additionally used. Often use elements of a different color or mosaic.

Speaking about the fact that this method was originally intended for laying parquet, we can conclude that such a coating will look best if its surface imitates wood. But for a tile that looks like a stone, this option is not very suitable, since it looks rather unnatural in the end.

An example of a successful use of the ceramic herringbone laying method

In order to get the desired result and lay the tiles in a herringbone pattern, it is necessary to rotate the elements to the right or left during the laying process, depending on the diagonal position of the tiles. The amount of waste in this case will be minimal, and the visual effect is amazing.

How to lay tiles on the floor: modular installation

Modular installation - perfect solution for those who are new to the issue of working with tiles. At the same time, the method allows you to decorate the surface as the owner wishes. It is enough just to think about how to lay the tiles in the bathroom on the floor, design a suitable pattern and make some necessary calculations.

A modular pattern will be an excellent solution for small rooms, especially since you can choose the right color and pattern yourself, taking into account the features of the interior. It is advisable to do as much as possible precise drawing, which includes an indication of the dimensions of the tile, as well as the location of the seams.

Useful advice! If you don’t want to develop the project yourself, you can purchase a ready-made tile set and a diagram that demonstrates in detail how to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands.

The simplest solution is to use a modular effect, when many small elements of various formats are depicted on one large tile. In this case, the main thing is to observe the principle of the model grid - the same pattern must be repeated many times. Given this, you can independently decide how to lay out the tiles in the bathroom in a beautiful and original way.

How to lay tiles on the floor in an original way: the "maze" method

The “maze” method, or as it is also called “braiding”, can be performed in various ways, but in the end it always gives the impression of intertwined stripes, inside of which there is a square of a different color or shade.

In order to lay out the intertwining stripes of the pattern, you need to use rectangular tiles, and for the inside - smaller square elements.

Useful advice! In order not to be mistaken with the size of the tile when buying, it is best to immediately fold one of the elements of the pattern in the store. This way you can make sure that all the elements match and look good together.

This method looks decent in any room, but when it comes to laying tiles on the bathroom floor, then this option can be called ideal. Even with a small area of ​​​​the room and the absence of a window, the right shade of yellow in combination with such a pattern can create a backlight effect and make the bathroom lighter and more comfortable.

Related article:

Stages of preparation and laying tiles. Complexities and features of the process. Creation of the base and screed. Insulation and waterproofing of the coating.

You can also consider how to lay porcelain stoneware on the floor. With the use of this material, this pattern also looks very attractive.

Laying tiles on the floor "Deck": technology and features

The "Deck" method is undeservedly used in flooring not as often as others. After all, in fact, this way of laying the coating perfectly imitates the deck board, which brings a certain mood to the interior. In this case, the tiles are laid with an offset and it is extremely important that the distance is the same throughout the floor plane without exception.

You can see that this method is somewhat similar to brickwork. This is true, except for the fact that the elements should not be displaced by half of each tile, but only by a small segment of it.

It is worth paying attention to the choice of color and structure of the coating. By opting for a tile that imitates wood and does not have an unglazed finish, you can create a very convincing semblance of a wooden floor.

Tiles with imitation of natural wood are often used when laying the "Deck" method

How to lay floor tiles using the "Carpet" method

"Carpet" is one of the most sophisticated options for laying tiles on the floor, which provides the opportunity to decorate the room in accordance with the theme of the interior, as well as your own preferences. The essence of this method is that two, three or more colors of the tile are used, as well as a border that frames this pattern around the perimeter.

How complex and beautiful "carpet" you can create depends solely on your imagination, as well as skills in working with tools and materials. It is best to use this method on a fairly large area of ​​​​the room, for example, in a hall or bathroom of impressive size.

How to lay ceramic floor tiles using the Kaleidoscope method

One of the most unusual ways how to lay tiles in the kitchen - "Kaleidoscope". Just like the previous version, it allows you to independently come up with a pattern that will decorate the room. But here it is extremely important to strictly adhere to the plan, since it is very easy to get confused in the elements. It is best to pre-draw the floor surface in an appropriate way, thus facilitating your work.

When using the Kaleidostop method, you can use multi-colored tiles with different patterns

Important! Another difficulty of this method is the need to prepare a perfectly even base in advance, since all the irregularities will be very noticeable.

As you can see, laying tiles on the floor is an art that will take time and attention to detail to understand. So it's worth considering everything existing options, and having decided on your own capabilities and preferences, proceed to the implementation of the chosen method of laying floor tiles.

Before proceeding to the consideration of the features of laying tiles on various bases, you should familiarize yourself with some of the recommendations that experts provide. According to the statements, taking into account these simple tips, you can significantly extend the life of the coating, making it as durable and reliable as possible:

• preparation of an even foundation is the main task to be solved;
• the prepared surface must be vacuumed again immediately before laying;
• the adhesive composition that will be used to fix the tiles must be selected taking into account the level of humidity in the room in which to work;

Before you should take care of the quality of the base

• for any method that is more complicated than traditional or diagonal, it is advisable to mark on the floor;
• for complex patterns, the tiles must be cut in advance and then laid out on a floor surface covered with a cloth in order to look at the result before starting to apply the mortar;
• at easy way laying can start from the corner, but in the case of most complex patterns, you need to find and designate the center of the room;
• liquid preparations for pre-treatment of the base - ideal to provide the tile with a more secure fixation;
• before proceeding to laying tiles, you need to wait for the impregnation to dry completely;
• grouting floor tiles can be started no earlier than the period indicated on the package, which is necessary for the adhesive to dry completely;
• the color should match or match the color of the tile to create a single beautiful flooring.

The basics of choosing and laying tiles in accordance with the interior of the room

You can choose the most suitable variant of tiling by considering several examples of finished interiors using this material. At the same time, it is important to understand that in residential premises, tiles are almost always combined with a heating system, because otherwise, walking on the floor in the cold season will be quite uncomfortable. You need to read and watch additional training videos on how to properly lay tiles in a bathroom that has an underfloor heating system.

If we are talking about laying floor tiles in the living room, then ideal option can become a coating that externally imitates a laminate. This is the right choice for modern interior, which will harmoniously fit into the room of any size. In large rooms, it is better to give preference to calm, solid colors that will not make the floor too colorful and tiring to look at.

If you want to lay tiles on the floor in the bath, then due to the small area it is permissible to use brighter and more original colors. Do not forget that the selected color and texture of the coating can influence the perception of space. So, for example, a glossy surface of a light shade will expand the room, while a dark matte tile will have the opposite effect.

Before laying tiles in the kitchen, you should make sure that the material chosen is not too easily soiled. In addition, you should not buy slippery tiles, because in the kitchen the flooring is constantly in contact with water, which can lead to dangerous situations.

How to lay tiles on the floor: features of working with various surfaces

Having familiarized yourself with the various ways of laying floor tiles and choosing the most suitable option for yourself, you can safely proceed to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of the laying procedure. Given the considerable cost of laying tiles per square meter, many people want to refuse the services of a specialist and do everything themselves. To do this, first of all, you need to stock up on tools that may be required in the process of work:

• building level;
• a hammer;
• glass cutter, or grinder;
• wire cutters;
• roulette;
• notched trowel;
• simple pencil;
• sponge and clean rags.

Useful advice! It is worth taking care of the availability of personal protective equipment in advance and purchase at least - protective glasses, which will protect the eyes from the ingress of dust particles formed during the cutting of tiles.

If during the installation process there is a need for curly cutting, for example, to bypass a riser or heating pipe, then a drill with a soldered hard alloy is used for this, as well as a string with an abrasive coating.

Also, in addition to the tile, you need to purchase special crosses that are used as separators, adhesive mixture for tiles, grout, as well as sealant and silicone seal. All this will allow you to lay tiles on the floor with your own hands.

How to properly lay tiles on a concrete floor: features of base preparation

The first point of the preparatory work that needs to be carried out before laying the floor tiles is the dismantling of the old coating and cleaning the surface of all existing stains: oils, paints, grease, etc. Then the existing base is checked using the building level, as well as visual evaluation: if there is significant damage, potholes, cracks or deviations in height, then a new cement-sand screed must be made.

It is important that before gluing the tiles to the floor, the surface is hard and as even as possible. Otherwise, you will have to spend on styling large quantity glue, and a tile laid on a soft base is much more susceptible to damage as a result of the load: the appearance of cracks, chips and simply falling off.

After you are convinced of the quality of the old screed or have made a new one, you should take care of laying a layer of heat-insulating material. This will reduce heat loss and reduce the consumption of resources spent on heating. Another option is the arrangement of a heating system, which is the best solution of all possible.

In the second case, the thickness of the screed should be at least 40 mm, and to further strengthen the base, it is worth using a reinforcing mesh.

If the concrete base is in an acceptable condition, or for some reason it is impossible to make a new screed before laying the tiles in the bathroom, and you have to work with what is, then all the cavities can be smoothed out with cement mortar. But for protrusions, it is best to use a chisel, with which you can relatively easily knock off the interfering parts of the coating.

You can also use a grinder for leveling. And in order to ensure reliable adhesion of the base to the adhesive composition, it is necessary to first apply a layer of primer.

All of these methods of preparation are relevant for concrete structures or monolithic slabs. But laying tiles on a wooden floor is also possible. Consider how it is worth installing in this case.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor: features of surface preparation

For a wooden base, on which it is planned to lay a tile, the same requirements are imposed as in the case of concrete. First of all, the surface must be smooth and durable. The presence of old, worn or rotten boards is unacceptable, as it can lead to the fact that the tile covering at some point simply fails as a result of the destruction of the base. Therefore, all imperfect boards must be replaced.

Useful advice! If a good, at first glance, board, as a result of the load, begins to “play”, then this defect can be eliminated by laying additional lags under it. Although in some cases it helps simple replacement fasteners (nails or self-tapping screws) with new ones. In any case, it is imperative to carry out an appropriate check before laying tiles on a wooden floor.

Another way to install a solid and reliable base for laying tiles in the case of working with a wooden floor is to use sheets of chipboard, OSB or plywood. In this case, it is very important that the material is resistant to moisture.

In the process of laying such an additional layer, it is necessary to leave gaps of approximately 5-8 mm between the sheets in order to allow the material to compensate for changes in air humidity without surface deformation. The laid out sheets are attached to the base with self-tapping screws and opened with a layer of primer before laying the tiles on the wooden floor.

Considering the fact that ceramic coating does not allow air to pass through and does not allow air to penetrate to the base, it is worth taking care of the presence of internal ventilation so that an environment favorable for the growth and reproduction of harmful microorganisms is not created inside. Thus, laying tiles on a wooden floor is quite possible. The main thing is to pay due attention to the issue of preparing the base, and before laying the tile on the wooden floor, treat it with special protective equipment.

How to choose the right adhesive for laying tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

Regardless of the type of foundation, the laying technique is always the same. But the choice of a suitable adhesive composition should be approached with special attention, since depending on the surface on which it will be applied, its composition should be different. For a concrete floor, a cement-based adhesive must be used. In order to prepare it, it is necessary to add the amount of water specified by the manufacturer to the finished dry mixture.

A completely different glue is used when working with wooden base. In this case, the adhesive solution has the consistency of mastic, which, among other things, is able to compensate for deformations resulting from changes in the humidity of the air in the room.

Apply with a notched trowel on the reverse side facing material. In this case, grooves should form on the surface. Then the tile is pressed against the floor surface and gently tapped with a rubber mallet. You can learn more about how to glue tiles in the bathroom using one or another method of preparing the mixture from the photo or video instructions.

Rules for cutting and calculating tiles on the floor

It is practically impossible to lay tiles on the floor in such a way as to avoid trimming and fitting the material. One way or another, the material has to be adjusted to the required size at the edges of the room or in places where heating or plumbing pipes are located. Particular attention should be paid to how to lay the tiles in the toilet, because in this case, even more complex tile cutting will be required.

It is far from always possible to use a conventional glass cutter for fitting, since manufacturers usually use more durable material than for the wall. In addition, the thickness of the floor tiles is greater, which means that it will be even more difficult to cut it properly.

In this case, it is best to use the grinder, which allows you to curly cutting, albeit with an uneven edge. All imperfections made as a result of such trimming can be eliminated using special tongs (nippers) manually.

The most convenient option for cutting tiles is to use a tile cutter, since with its help all procedures can be performed as quickly and firmly as possible, and the edges are even.

Important! Despite all the positive characteristics of such a tool as a tile cutter, cut with it pinstripe(less than 10 cm) is not possible. In this case, it is better to do it manually using wire cutters.

It is very important not to forget about personal protective equipment, which must be present in the process of cutting tiles. Sharp pieces, which, one way or another, will scatter to the sides, can cause serious injury. Therefore, it is important to protect the eyes (and preferably the entire face) and wear tight clothing that can provide protection.

After everything necessary elements the tiles are cut and laid with the help of an adhesive composition, it remains only to wait for drying and wipe the seams. How exactly this procedure is carried out should be considered separately in order to take into account all the subtleties and nuances. After all, it will depend on the final stage how long the coating will last in the end, and how hygienic its use will be.

Grouting tiles on the floor: what is it for

In order to pay due attention to grouting between tiles, it is necessary to understand how important this process is in terms of its further operation. First of all, it is worth noting that the seams are the gap that remains between the elements after they are laid.

There are certain norms and rules that indicate the main guidelines that you need to rely on in the process of work. So, the basic rule is that the larger the width of the tile, the larger the seam should be. Usually it is from 2 to 5 mm.

The need for grouting is due to several reasons:

• over time, the walls undergo natural shrinkage, so some free space is needed so that the tiles can move without damaging the surface;
• due to the presence of cracks in the dense lining, the walls "breathe";
• the use of a special grouting compound prevents the penetration of moisture, and hence the development of mold, fungi and simply the accumulation of dirt in the crevices;
• due to the presence of grout, adhesion between individual fragments of the cladding is improved;
• grout has a considerable decorative role. Properly and neatly designed seams can mask minor tile defects, such as notches and chips. In addition, using grout, you can hide the remnants of the solution.

Thus, the service life of the flooring, as well as how attractive its appearance will be, depends on the observance of the grout application technology. That is why it is worth considering in more detail on what principle it is worth choosing a mixture and how to carry out everything necessary work on one's own.

How to choose the right grout mix

In order to avoid any problems during the grouting process, it is necessary from the very beginning to choose a mixture that is ideal in all respects. This seemingly insignificant nuance plays an important role, so you should pay attention to the following aspects:

The color of the grout is the main criterion that most people pay attention to in the first place. The color of the grout can both positively and negatively affect appearance the entire coverage. A universal option that is appropriate almost always - white. But in combination with colored tiles, it will not give the feeling of a single canvas. For this. you can choose a grout shade that is as close as possible to the color of the tile. Contrasting colors are used less often, since choosing the right combination can be very difficult.

Useful advice! To get the grout of the desired shade, you can simply add the right amount of color to the white base mixture.

The composition and properties of the grout also play an important role. Depending on what components are included in the mixture, and it can be alabaster, gypsum, epoxy resins, Portland cements and others, the characteristics will also be different. Here you need to focus on what conditions the material will have to face.

So, for rooms with high humidity, for example, when it comes to a bathroom, you need to choose compositions that include water-repellent components. If the surface is subject to serious loads, then you should pay attention to the wear resistance of the composition. The best solution- epoxy mix.

The composition of the grout will differ depending on what surface it is intended for. For example, if we are talking about tiling the wall surface, ordinary grout is used, which, under significant loads, can wear out over time. For flooring, it is worth purchasing a more tenacious mixture, designed for constant contact with shoes, furniture, etc. The main thing is that the grout structure is not loose.

Technology for preparing grout for tile joints on the floor

Today, many different manufacturers are engaged in the production and sale of high-quality grout. Such a wide range allows you to choose the most suitable option for a particular situation. On sale you can find two types of grout for joints: dry powder and mass ready for application.

In the first case, the main difficulty is the dilution of the required amount of the mixture, since it can be difficult to understand exactly how much you may need. Therefore, the best option is to dilute the powder little by little, gradually using it as needed. Usually, manufacturers indicate on the packaging as accurately as possible how much water needs to be added to obtain the desired consistency, but you can also adjust it yourself, by eye determining whether the result you get tired of.

The second option is a mass that is completely ready for use. It can usually be purchased in jars or small buckets. The main advantage of this solution is that there is no need to bother with breeding on your own and the ability to carry out all the necessary work as quickly as possible.

The disadvantages of the finished mass in the first place include a short shelf life. For this reason, leftovers that have not been used will most likely have to be thrown away. Given this, we can conclude that self-dilution of grout from a dry mix is ​​more profitable.

If there is a desire to save money on the purchase of grout, you can consider the option of home cooking. To do this, you can use alabaster diluted with water to the consistency of a plastic mass. The main disadvantage of this option is the short service life, since usually such a grout crumbles quite strongly. You can add a gypsum mixture to strengthen it, but this will only slightly improve the situation.

How to grout the seams on the tile: the technique of applying the mixture

In order to apply the finished grout to the seams and bring it all into proper shape, you will need a container into which the solution will be poured, a brush, a construction mixer, as well as a foam rubber sponge and a small rubber spatula. It is best to dilute the grout gradually, in small portions and in a small container.

Useful advice! The use of a mixer is justified only if you have to work with large area. In all other cases, to obtain the desired consistency of the mixture, it will be enough to mix it for some time with a spatula.

The grouting procedure is as follows:

1. Tiled joints with which to work must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, dust, and fungus. For this, a special tool is provided.
2. Using a brush previously dipped in water, the seams are soaked to increase the quality of adhesion between materials.
3. Then you need to dilute a small amount of grout in a prepared container.
4. Using a rubber spatula, the elastic mixture is applied to the seam so that the gap is completely filled. In this case, additional tamping is necessary to avoid the formation of voids.
5. All excess that has fallen on the tile can be easily removed with the same spatula.
6. To prevent future cracks, at this stage, the grout in the joints must be moistened with water.

Important! To provide maximum protection against the effects of water and the formation of fungus on the surface, it is recommended to additionally treat the places where the plinth will be laid with a sealant.

You need to understand that the procedure for grouting joints on the floor and walls is somewhat different. And if in the case of wall covering, the seams must be sealed from top to bottom, then for floor covering the rule applies - from the far corner to the exit. Before starting work, it can be extremely useful to watch a training video. Grouting floor tiles in this case will certainly be carried out better.

In order for the grout to dry completely, it is necessary to leave it for a day. And after that you can go to final processing seams. To do this, use special antiseptic agents that can prevent the appearance of fungus and mold, protecting everything. vulnerabilities coatings.

One way or another, if we are talking about laying ceramic tiles on the floor, some moisture will accumulate on its surface and, over time, may begin to penetrate through the seams. To prevent this, use . Its application is the final stage of seaming, which provides the maximum level of protection.

Final cleaning of the tile surface before use

In order to start using the coating that resulted from the work, it is necessary to give it an attractive and complete appearance. The main task is to eliminate as much as possible all traces of excess mortar and putty. And since rubbing is usually carried out in several approaches, since the mastic tends to partially sag as a result of drying, surface cleaning should be done only at the very end.

In order to effectively clean the surface, you will need a foam sponge moistened with water. The tile must be wiped so that the grout, which is located on the surface of the tile, is slightly soaked. Then, using a scraper or the same spatula, you can remove all excess. All stains are easily washed off with a damp cloth or sponge.

Useful advice! If a relief tile was laid, then it will be quite difficult to clean it with a sponge. In this case, it is best to use an old toothbrush.

It is best to clean the surface before the final drying of the grout occurs, since after that it will become very problematic to soften it. Of course, even in this case, it is possible to completely remove the excess, but the process will take much longer and require a lot of effort.

Scraping completely dried putty must be done very carefully, as it is very easy to damage the surface of the tile, especially if the tile surface is glossy. As for the relief surface, it will be almost impossible to remove dirt here, so this needs to be done as soon as possible.

Tips for caring for floor tiles

It may seem that it is enough to know how to lay tiles on the bathroom floor in order to get a beautiful durable coating. But in fact, it is constant care that is the key to a long service life of the tile.

In this case, you need to learn two fundamental rules:

1. Only regular cleaning of the seams can guarantee the absence of pathogenic bacteria and fungi. At least once a month it is necessary to clean the grouts in the tiles on the floor. How exactly to do this, everyone decides for themselves: you can resort to using special detergents or soapy water, you can also use vinegar or lemon. Chlorine is suitable for surface disinfection. In addition, a steam cleaner will do a wonderful job of cleaning.
2. If possible, you need to save the remains of the grout in order to be able to produce regular grout, which, one way or another, will be needed. Such re-grouting is done as needed if the old seams have darkened and cracked. In this case, the old putty is cleaned, after which the seams are treated with an antiseptic, and a new layer is applied. If it is also necessary to remove a layer of sealant, this can be done with a blade.

By following these simple recommendations, and regularly paying attention to the condition of the tile, you can significantly extend the service life and keep it in its original appearance. It will also be useful to read recommendations and user reviews on the Internet on how to clean the seams between the tiles on the floor. Often on the forums you can find useful ideas and tips.

How much does it cost to put tiles on the floor: prices for services

If after you are fully familiar with how to properly tile in the bathroom, the task still seems too complicated for you, it may make sense to seek the help of professionals. Experts know exactly how to properly lay tiles in the bathroom, kitchen or corridor by any method and will cope with the task as quickly as possible.

So, it remains to find an offer for the most reasonable price. Many masters offer to lay tiles on the floor, but this service should not cost less than 550-600 rubles per 1 m². Of course, there are a huge number of masters whose services are much more expensive, so here the choice is solely up to the customer.

In any case, it will be useful to get acquainted with the pricing policy, and if such a cost seems excessive to you, then you can always read the instructions again, watch the video about laying tiles on the floor and try to do everything yourself.

Bathroom tile laying technology: video instruction

Having thoroughly familiarized yourself with how to lay tiles on the floor, as well as with how to properly grout the seams on the tile, in most cases you can get to work without hesitation. However, it can also be very useful to watch a training video, which demonstrates in detail each stage of the work and provides useful recommendations from experts in this matter.

Laying tiles on the floor with your own hands is a very time-consuming process that requires some accuracy. If you follow all the rules and technologies, you will be able to get a reliable and durable flooring. It should also be borne in mind that self-made repairs can significantly save the family budget.

The work is long, it will be divided into several stages, which are completely interconnected.

Tool

First of all, they are determined with the necessary tool. You will need:

• Hammer and rubber mallet.
• Chisel.
• A set of simple spatulas, as well as notched ones.
• Trowel.
• Level and roulette.
• Tile cutter.
• Tile adhesive, grout and sealant.
• A set of crosses for creating even seams.
• Container for water and solution.

Of course, depending on the specific situation, other devices may be needed.

Material Quantity Calculation

It is better to do this at the initial stage. Many people think that it is rather difficult to calculate floor tiles, but in reality everything is different. This is done according to the following principle:

The first thing that begins with the installation of tiles is the calculation of the number of tiles, so it is important to correctly perform this event

• Define the parameters of the object. Its width and length. The total area is calculated.
• The resulting indicator is divided by the area of ​​​​the selected tile (several options can be calculated at once).
• Ten percent is added to the amount received. This will be the necessary stock.

For example, the floor has a size of 3 * 3 meters. So the area will be nine square meters. A regular tile has a size of 30 * 30 cm. The resulting area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe tile is converted into meters: 0.09 square meters. m. Total: 9: 0.09 + 10% = 110 pieces. When calculating trimming, the size of the seams is also taken into account.

On a note! Any large hardware store that sells tiles offers free services to calculate the required number of products.

Surface work

Laying floor tiles is possible only on a well-prepared surface. First, everything unnecessary is removed from the room. Removed old flooring. Communication is checked. This is what you should focus on. The fact is that all the water supply and drainage connections are done in advance. You should not engage in flooring until all problems in this area have been resolved. If possible, it is advisable to immediately hide the pipes.

When all technical procedures are completed, the surface leveling process begins. It is much easier to carry out work when it comes to new houses, apartments that have only screed-plaster. In old rooms - you have to try. The fact is that objects built many years ago can have a different basis. Sometimes you have to create a new surface.

On a note! When it comes to bathrooms, which are located in old apartment buildings, they pay attention to the baseboards. They are made from a durable cement mixture. They will have to be removed completely, along with the coating.

Floor preparation before tiling

1. After cleaning, there is a lot of dust and dirt that needs to be removed. Floor tiles - do not tolerate anything superfluous.
2. The surface is measured. It is done in order to determine the existing curvature. Small differences are allowed - no more than 5 mm per 2 meters. Any defects that are larger than the specified parameters need a more serious approach.
3. The situation will help to correct the leveling mixture. It is better to choose cement-sand compositions. This mixture is poured over the installed beacons. It turns out a flat and smooth base. But such a procedure is performed after all deep cracks and potholes are sealed.
4. The wooden floor needs the same approach. The only thing is that the procedure will be slightly different. First, the reliability of the lag and boards is checked. Next, the wood is impregnated oil paints. The cracks are pre-sealed with elastic putty. A layer of waterproofing will be laid on the dried surface. A reinforcing mesh is stretched from above. The prepared mixture is poured.
5. Do not forget about priming with penetrating compounds.

Priming the floor before laying the tiles ensures a stronger bond between the tiles and the floor surface.

On a note! Rooms with high humidity require more care. A prerequisite will be -. Materials for this can be used different. Some can be laid (film, roll), others can be applied with a roller and brush (liquid).

Indeed, laying floor tiles with your own hands requires a balanced approach to the surface. It cannot be hoped that small imperfections will be corrected by the final coating.

markup

There are two main ways to tile a floor. Each has its own characteristics.

1. The easiest option is that the installation starts from the far corner. The movement is towards the doorway. This method is suitable for small objects, as well as for rooms with complex geometry. Ideal for those who do not have enough experience.
2. A more complex version can also be used. In this case, lining starts from the middle. The surface is pre-marked - you need to get four identical squares or rectangles. The lines will run through the center, forming four corners. You should choose one, it will serve as a starting point for work. The material laid according to this principle will require trimming around the entire perimeter. Therefore, such manipulations are carried out with sufficient experience.

It is recommended to start work with a preliminary arrangement of elements. That is, the laying of tiles on the floor is carried out on a “dry” basis. This will help you figure everything out right away. Especially if there is a pattern that needs to be adjusted. It is important to consider the presence of seams. This method allows you to re-evaluate the size of the crop, and, if necessary, make adjustments.

Advice! When making primary calculations, pay attention to the areas that will be located along the walls. To obtain a beautiful floor surface, one should be guided by the principle that tiles should not be cut into narrow strips. The size should be more than 35-40% of the total width.

Laying

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor begins with the preparation of the adhesive. Even if a ready-made composition was purchased, it needs to be thoroughly mixed. When a dry mix is ​​​​used, the recommendations provided by the manufacturer must be followed.

Do not immediately prepare a large supply of glue. Please note that the process can take a long time. Then the composition will begin to lose its properties. It will just freeze.

The work is carried out according to the following principle:

On a note! The space near the walls begins to close up at the last stage. This approach will help to reduce time, since in this case it will be possible to trim all the material at once.

1. It should be borne in mind that the technology of laying tiles on the floor does not allow the presence of voids. If such a defect is allowed to form, then the probability of damage to the coating is high.
2. Immediately wipe off excess glue from the surface. Otherwise, the adhesive will have to be removed with a special scraper.
3. The question often arises: how long does the laid material dry? It depends on the mixture used, but it is not recommended to walk on the floor for two days.
4. At the last stage, rubbing of seams is used. This procedure allows you to get beautiful gaps. When the need arises, a sealant is additionally applied.

If you analyze all the requirements and rules, it becomes clear that laying tiles on the floor is a difficult task, but doable.

In any room, the floor is exposed to the greatest mechanical stress. Therefore, floor tiles must be durable, resistant to abrasion and chemicals, and also - to have high moisture resistance, because it is most often laid in rooms where it is often carried out wet cleaning. In addition, floor tiles are also an important element of the interior. It should be in harmony with the decoration of the walls and ceiling, create a common background with them. That is why designers develop different types of tiled flooring. What to focus on when choosing a tile for the floor and how to lay it correctly with your own hands - you will learn about this by reading this article.

We choose a tile for the floor in accordance with the operating conditions and personal preferences in color, shape, texture

When choosing a tile for a floor, it is necessary to take into account the load to which it will be subjected, the type of room (an object with high traffic or a dwelling). In accordance with this criterion, floor tiles are available for low, medium and high load levels. The low-load tile is designed for places where people mostly walk barefoot or in soft slippers. The medium load tile can withstand normal shoes. Tiles for a high level of load are laid in places with a large crowd of people.

In this case, we are interested in laying tiles on the floor of a residential building. Suitable , hallway, kitchen, toilet. If the tiled floor is not planned to be covered with carpets, then you should not choose tiles with a glazed surface, since it is easy to slip on such a floor covering. In this case, it is better that the tile is embossed - this increases the coefficient of friction. Tiles for the kitchen on the floor - on the contrary, should not be embossed, as it will be difficult to clean. For the kitchen floor, it is better to choose glazed tiles with a matte finish (may have a laser pattern to prevent slipping).

Having chosen a tile that meets these requirements, you can proceed to the choice of size, shape and color. Here you can dream up plenty, not forgetting to take into account the interior of the apartment and how the selected floor tiles will look in it. For example, a glossy glazed tile expands a visually cramped space, while a dark matte one will large room more refined.

It's important to know! When choosing a tile, you should buy it all at once, in one series, as well as with a mandatory stock (approximately 10% of the calculated amount).

Do-it-yourself tiling is a responsible and lengthy process. Here are its main steps:

• preparation of the floor surface;
• floor marking according to the chosen laying scheme;
• direct laying of tiles;
• cutting tiles under the right dimensions and configuration;
• grouting.

Floor surface preparation

From what will be the surface of the coating on which the tile is laid, its further operational qualities will eventually depend. For this it is necessary to carry out preparatory work:

Choosing a layout scheme and marking the floor according to it

With the help of tiles you can decorate the house, create an unforgettable interior in the room. How to lay tiles - in a linear or checkerboard pattern, create drawings and patterns or collect mosaics - is up to the owner.

Tiling schemes can be as follows

It is only important that the tile is started from the most visible places, because at the end of the installation, it may be necessary to cut the tile in order to add the rest of the place in pieces.

There are three main options for laying out floor tiles:

1. "Seam to seam" - rows of tiles are laid in parallel. Most suitable for large tiles.
2. Laying "diagonally" - is made at an angle of 45 ° to the lines of the walls. Allows you to hide small irregularities in the walls with the help of cut tiles laid along the edges.
3. Laying "in run-up" is carried out according to the method brickwork from rectangular floor tiles. In this case, the first tile is laid not in the corner, but in the center of the room.

Each of these styling methods is good in its own way, the main thing is that the chosen option is in harmony with the design of the room.

We make the markup according to the selected scheme (in our example, the scheme is simple - “seam to seam”). To do this, from the wall located at the entrance, we measure a distance equal to the width of the tile, adding 4-5 mm to the gap, which will be closed later with a plinth (this space can then be used for laying a television or telephone cable). We stretch the paint cord along the marks and beat off the line.

Marking the floor surface for laying tiles

The procedure for laying floor tiles

To solve the problem of how to put tile to get a beautiful and high-quality floor covering, you just need to strictly follow the laying technology.

In order to know how to stick tiles in the same direction, a corrugated arrow is applied on its back. When laying, we cover the arrow with glue and we can get confused, so we make additional marks on the ends of the tiles with a pencil.

We make marks on the ends of the tiles in order to know the direction of its laying

For styling we need:

• rubber mallet;
• tile adhesive;
• notched trowel for floor tiles (with 12 mm square teeth);
• small level (45-50 cm);
• rule 1.5-2.0 m long;
• plastic crosses (3mm) and wedges for seams (4-5mm);
• grinder with a diamond disc;
• drill with a nozzle or a construction mixer.

An important point when laying tiles is compliance temperature regime– within 20°С.

1. Find the center of the doorway and mark it.

   Marking the center of the doorway

   We put one tile for reference - as it will lie.

   Laying tiles for reference

2. We knead the tile adhesive using a drill with a special nozzle or a construction electric mixer. Pour the dry mixture into water (water consumption - strictly according to the instructions on the package, otherwise the glue may turn out to be liquid). It is not necessary to prepare a lot of glue at once so that it does not have time to dry before we use it. The adhesive solution should be left for 15 minutes to infuse, then mix well one more time.
3. Apply the glue in an even layer on the tile with a spatula. We carry out a notched comb, holding it at a right angle and pressing it firmly against the surface of the tile so that the adhesive strips are the same.

   Apply glue to the tile and draw with a toothed comb

   The larger the size of the tile, the deeper and wider the grooves on the adhesive should be, and, accordingly, the size of the teeth of the spatula. Shake off excess glue so that it does not stick to the comb. We apply the first tile to the floor to the right of the one that was placed for reference. We press and gently tap it with a rubber mallet for a tighter fit.

   For a tighter fit to the surface, tap the tile with a hammer

   If any tile becomes hard to level with the rest, in this case it is recommended to remove a little glue from under it or add (if it fails). We check with a level how the tile lies.

4. We continue to lay the floor tiles in a row to the right. We do it in this way: before pressing the next tile to the floor, we put the level on it in such a way that part of it hangs over the previous tile.

   Laying tiles on the floor with a level

   We press the tile a little with our hands, making small circular movements until the edge of the level touches the surface.

5. Align along the line, insert crosses between the tiles so that the seams are the same. And so that the tile does not accidentally move, we fix it with wedges from the side of the wall.

   To prevent the tile from moving, we fix it with wedges from the side of the wall

   We lay out the entire row to the side wall on the right, checking the evenness of the plane of the laid tiles using the rule. If it is necessary to correct the position of any tiles, this must be done within 15 minutes after laying. Later, for this, the tile will need to be removed and re-laid, having previously cleaned it of hardened glue.

6. A piece of trimmed tile must be placed against the wall. Since floor tiles are much stronger than wall tiles, a tile cutter cannot cut it evenly: it splits arbitrarily, and not along a notch. Therefore, you have to cut it with a grinder with a diamond disc.

   Trimming tiles with a grinder with a diamond blade

   Having laid the trim against the wall on the right, we continue to lay the row to the left of the doorway until the first row is completed.

   First row of tiles laid

   We begin to lay out the second row from the tile in the center of the door, and go first to the right and then to the left of it. Between the rows we also insert plastic spacer crosses. We check each by level, making sure that the corners of the next tile do not protrude above the surface of the one already laid. The second row is also completed.

7. In places where pipes exit, we make figured cutouts with the help of a grinder.

   In places where pipes exit, we make curly cutouts

   If it is necessary to make round holes, then we use nozzles for a tungsten soldered drill. Upon completion of laying, we check with the help of the rule the plane in several places (in different directions).

   Checking the laying plane using the rule

   After making sure that everything is in order, we wait for the glue to dry in order to grout the seams.

Grouting joints between tiles

We figured out how to glue tiles, but no less important technological operation is grouting tiles. This is the final stage of installation. Probably, rarely anyone likes to rub the seams - this is a monotonous, boring job, but you can’t do without it. Qualitatively worn seams will give a finished look to the overall picture, and the tile will look even more beautiful. A failed grout, on the contrary, can ruin all the work.

When buying grout, it should be borne in mind that for many of them the color of the powder in the package differs from the color of the finished and then dried mixture. Therefore, you should not be surprised if, upon opening the package, you find a completely different color than the one that was shown to you in the store. The solution will acquire the desired color when mixed with water.

Often the color of the dry powder is different from the color of the finished grout.

When mixed with water, the grout acquires the desired color

We add water to the dry grout mixture and knead with a regular spatula a small amount of grout of the consistency of thick sour cream. We wait 5 minutes for the solution to infuse, then mix it thoroughly again.

Important! Grouting works are carried out on clean tiles. If the tile is laid neatly, the seams will be clean; if not, they need to be cleaned, removing excess tile adhesive. It would be useful to moisten dry seams with water with a narrow brush or sponge.

Using a rubber spatula, we fill the tile joints. We collect the excess mixture with a spatula and apply it again perpendicular to the seam. We draw thin lines with the corner of the spatula moistened with water.

Filling tile joints with grout

After filling the last seam, we wait about 30 minutes until the grout begins to polymerize. By this time, the grout composition is already holding quite firmly in the seams, but it is easily removed from the surface of the tile. We carry out the first wash, using a large-pore sponge for this. We carry out a final re-wash 1 hour after grouting. Then wipe the floor dry with a flannel cloth.

Attention! Laying floor tiles must be carried out strictly following the recommendations of the manufacturers of all materials used (tile, adhesive mixture, grout).

In the early days, the seams must be moistened with a wet sponge to give strength to the grout. And after 1-1.5 weeks, the floor can be operated (if the tile laying technology has been observed). We glue skirting boards and enjoy the result of labor.

We hope that this article has helped you learn all the nuances of laying tiles on the floor, and you will be able to do this work with your own hands without resorting to the services of professionals who cost almost as much as the tile itself.