Assemble the drywall wall. Installation of drywall partitions - a step-by-step solution to the problem. Tools needed for marking and installation

We bring to your attention a master class on the manufacture of plasterboard partitions. In the article you will find all the information necessary for a novice installer. We will also designate the technological and operational features of the GKL piers.

Partitions made of drywall panels, assembled on a metal frame, have long been considered classics of the genre. Abroad, such designs have been successfully used for several decades. They appeared in our country in the nineties and literally fascinated developers and professional builders with their functionality. At first, it was difficult to find all the necessary materials, and there was almost no information about the technology of mounting frame partitions (the craftsmen had to work using their general construction knowledge and often primordially Russian ingenuity). Now we have fully complete systems and detailed technological maps from manufacturers at our disposal. Never before has the organization of the internal space been so simple. These are truly versatile systems that are especially good for redevelopment during renovations.

Now, after many years of trouble-free operation of drywall walls, we can safely say that the fears of skeptics regarding reliability and durability have not materialized. Such partitions can be enclosing structures inside any heated premises, including where it is damp, fire resistance, and penetration protection are needed.

Ten Reasons to Choose Drywall Partitions

Let's look at the main advantages of GKL partitions. We will limit ourselves to ten points, but in fact this list is much longer:

1. dry technology. Okay, almost dry - there's no getting away from puttying, but this is nothing compared to any other options that require full-fledged plastering or so-called leveling. In addition, brick or block masonry itself also needs to be dried.
2. The weight. Again, no competition. The load on the subfloor or ceiling will be minimal (for a single-layer lining, the mass per square meter is about 25-30 kg). You can safely mount such a partition over wet and dry screeds, wooden floors, on weak Khrushchev slabs, etc.
3. Load bearing capacity. There has never been such a thing that it was impossible to reliably hang something on a plasterboard wall. Volumetric dowels for hollow structures work wonders - on a sheet 12.5 mm thick, one attachment point holds up to 30 kg. Officially (data from the Knauf company): a kitchen cabinet 30 cm deep and 80 cm wide, suspended on two fasteners (one layer of plasterboard), can be safely loaded up to 50 kg. This is anywhere on an unprepared wall. The figures are much more interesting if you fix objects to rack profiles or with multi-layer sheathing of the frame. Very heavy things (up to 150 kg) can be mounted on such walls if wooden or steel embedded elements are provided inside the partition. Boiler, cast-iron radiator, ceramic washbasin - no problem. How to do this - we will tell below.
4. Soundproofing. It is always possible to lay acoustic insulating materials between the supporting profiles. For a normal living space, the right mineral wool will provide the best sound absorption of air waves among all partitions of the same thickness (insulation index from 44 to 56 dB). Impact noise is localized by the use of damper pads under the guide profiles. A properly assembled drywall partition does not “bump”, the profiles do not “rumble” when the interior door is closed. If you need to create a super-protected space, you can apply multi-layer lining, cladding with special panels, assemble a complex frame (two rows of racks). With an array, the same results cannot be achieved.
5. Moisture resistance. Moisture-resistant drywall works great in bathrooms, especially if it is covered with a special mastic. Excellent performance is demonstrated by all kinds of cement-based aquapanels. If there are very unfavorable neighbors upstairs, then the “green” HA can be applied throughout the apartment, and in order to protect the cotton wool from getting wet, the mats can be wrapped with polyethylene. Profiles for the subsystem are also not afraid of moisture, as they are galvanized.
6. The presence of cavities. Inside the frame partitions it is very convenient to carry out various engineering communications. This is an excellent outlet for the kitchen and bathroom, where it is necessary to dilute the sewerage, plumbing, heating, and electrics. For the convenience of mounting tracks in metal racks, there is a special perforation, additional windows can be cut out with a grinder. Mortise electrical boxes and shields, plumbing boxes, etc. can be easily placed in the partition.
7. Any configuration. Partitions of any shape are available: round, wave, with oblique angles, niches, arches, openings. The possible height is up to 9.5 meters, the length is not limited (only compensating expansion joints are needed every 15 meters). You can fix the partition to the false ceiling and to sheathed walls (both on the frame and on the mounting adhesive).
8. Penetration protection. A topical issue in public spaces - offices, warehouses, offices and more. The problem is effectively solved by more frequent arrangement of racks (30 cm along the axes), multi-layer sheathing and screwing to the frame (immediately along the profiles or between the layers of the cladding) sheets of galvanized metal 0.5-1 mm thick.
9. Low cost. With a traditional single-layer sheathing, a plasterboard partition is about half the price of a brick one (with plastering) and by about 15-20% compared to tongue-and-groove gypsum systems. This applies to both the cost of materials and installation costs.
10. Ease of installation. Anyone can master the technology, it is much easier than sheathing walls or ceilings. The fact is that here you don’t need to set up a frame by thread, which is usually a real stumbling block for beginners. Although the installation is painted by the developers inside and out, in fact, the frame GKL partitions forgive their builders many shortcomings and mistakes. Cracks and differences in planes on partitions are a rarity. And yet, from the power tool you only need a screwdriver and, possibly, a light hammer drill. The speed of construction is a record. Two qualified people (a master installer and an assistant) can easily assemble a frame and sew up a partition with an area of ​​​​about 15-20 m 2 in an eight-hour shift.

Technology for the construction of plasterboard partitions

It is best to start installation after the installation of the subfloor (it is easier to mark the contours on good planes) - although technologically wet and dry screeds can be done after partitions. As we have already said, wall frames can be fixed to ceilings and walls wired with plasterboard. In other words, there are no restrictions in this regard. One person can erect the frame of the partition and produce sheathing, but the markup has to be done together, since a chopping cord and a plumb line are used everywhere. The most productive work will be in the master + assistant link.

markup

In order to take out the dimensions and location of the partition from the drawings in kind, as a rule, they are repelled from any load-bearing wall. If our frame runs parallel, we simply set aside two points at the required distance and connect them, it’s a little more difficult to achieve perpendicularity. Very short partitions can be marked with a large square, or if you attach a sheet of drywall in place.

However, for large structures, errors from manual fixtures can be critical, and it is better to use a laser tool (square, builder). A good way to get an exact right angle is to draw an Egyptian triangle in which the mutually perpendicular sides are a multiple of 3 and 4, and the diagonal is a multiple of 5.

We recommend marking lines for plasterboard partitions with a chopping cord, a tracer. First, the contours of the partition are measured and marked on the floor, and only then transferred to the ceiling, although some manuals suggest doing the opposite. When working with a tracer, be very careful that the cord does not cling to anything, be sure to carefully sweep the floor.

Now, with the help of a plumb line, we transfer our markup to the ceiling. For each line, you need to have two risks, which we will also connect with a tracer. One person presses the plumb line to the ceiling and, at the command of the assistant, smoothly shifts it until the tip is aligned with the bottom line. The one who corrects the weight at the floor should gently stop the cone with his fingers, preventing it from swinging. When everything came together, a mark is placed along the axis of the thread.

Interestingly, some installers mark the ceiling from an already drilled profile, but the PN shelves are often bent somewhere, which significantly distorts the picture.

At this stage, we suggest immediately marking points on the floor that indicate the edges of the doorway, if any. Most importantly, do not forget to leave a margin of 20-30 mm, so that later a mounting gap of 10-15 mm is formed near the door block on each side.

We strongly recommend (although few people do this) to connect the ceiling line with the floor line on the wall with a tracer - at this stage this is done quickly and easily. So we get a vertical markup to control the installation of the wall profile.

Frame assembly

The width and length of the used profiles is selected depending on the required parameters of the partition. In most cases, the frame made of PN-75 and PS-75 profiles will be optimal in width, which, with a single-layer lining, form a wall 100 mm wide. It makes sense to use the fiftieth profiles only if the cladding will be done in two layers.

Before installation, the PN profile (guide profile or UW) must be pasted over with a damper tape from below. Also, for anti-vibration decoupling of partitions with enclosing structures, a sealant can be used, which is applied on the back side with two threads in special grooves.

We lay the prepared PN segments along the marking lines and fix them through the mounting holes. Fastening into the mineral massif is carried out with dowels "quick mounting" 6x40 mm - it is necessary to drill holes with a perforator. In hollow structures, holes are drilled with a drill and special drop-down dowels are used. For metal and wooden bases, self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.

During fixation, in addition to line control, be sure to apply a rule to the PN from the side, since even a high-quality and wide profile is easily bent by an arc. In the area of ​​​​the doorway, the profiles are fixed with two dowels; for reliability, even more fasteners can be installed.

Attention! The installation of the guide profile on the floor should be done first of all, so as not to fall asleep and trample the marking line.

End vertical profiles are inserted into the ceiling and floor guides. Sometimes here, by analogy with false walls, they put PN, but it is more technologically advanced to use PS, since two guides superimposed on each other at the corners of the frame then slightly distort the plane. Then the extreme PSs are pressed against the wall, in accordance with the markings and with the obligatory use of the rule, they are fixed.

Now that the full perimeter of the partition is in place, you need to mark the points for installing the racks. The step of PS profiles (UW) must be a multiple of the sheet width (1200 mm) - 30, 40, 60 cm along the axes. The first option is anti-burglary, the third one is for ordinary walls in residential premises. The second step of 40 cm is the most common, it is also mandatory for arranging partitions that are tiled, and also if three-layer lining is used.

The marks, according to which the PS is installed in the design position, are set with a tape measure on the shelves of the guide profile, and on both sides of it. Unlike the arrangement of false walls, these marks do not indicate the centers of the rack profiles, but their edges. We recommend that the first marks on the ceiling and on the floor be correlated with each other using a plumb line, and then measure the rest from them, so all the racks will become strictly vertical.

We prepare PS-profiles piece by piece along the length and insert them into the guides. The length of the posts should be 10 mm less than the height of the room at a particular point; for sagging floors and in seismic zones, this gap should be 20 mm. If utility lines pass inside the partition, then insert the rack profiles so that the perforation windows are opposite each other - then the route will run strictly horizontally.

Attention! The shelves of all substations must be oriented in the same direction, with the exception of only one rack that forms the doorway.

Rack profiles with the help of cutting pliers or self-tapping screws LN 9 mm with a drilling end are fixed to the PN shelves. This is done on both sides of the partition, near the floor and near the ceiling.

The next step is to form the frame of the opening. If a door block is installed here, then the racks need to be reinforced. To do this, two PS profiles are assembled into a rectangular box. As an addition, a dry, even beam is inserted into it to the full height from one side of the section 40 mm (it will freely enter the box). After inserting the beam, the prefabricated element of the opening is scrolled with LN self-tapping screws from the facing side and TN 25 self-tapping screws from the opening side (the wooden beam is attracted to the metal). If you use a perfectly prepared timber that will fill the PS from shelf to shelf, then there is no point in assembling a box-shaped structure to organize an opening.

A jumper should be installed between the racks at the required height (be sure to take into account what mark the finishing floor will rise to, and make a gap margin above the door of 2-2.5 cm). The jumper is made from trimming PN, which is cut out in the form of a double-sided "stick". Also, the short parts of the "club" can be bent down. We fasten this element strictly horizontally through the eyes to the racks, using four or five self-tapping screws on each side.

Short PS profiles are inserted between the jumper and the ceiling PN; they must be spaced from other frame elements with a given pitch in order to ensure the joining of the sheathing sheets. It is also necessary to orient their shelves in the right direction.

Sheathing of the subsystem with sheets

Facing panels with long edges with a thinned edge must be joined in the middle of the rack profiles without fail. The sheets are mounted in the direction where the shelves of PS profiles look, then the shelves will not bend under the action of self-tapping screws. If there are not enough sheets in height to close the entire partition, then they must be placed with a difference in height between the joints.

Drywall is put in the design position and scrolled with TN self-tapping screws for metal with an interval of no more than 250 mm. 15 mm should be retreated from the edge of the short side, and at least 10 mm from the edge of the thinned edge. At the joints of adjacent sheets, self-tapping screws should go with a run-out of 10-20 mm. All fasteners are screwed in strictly at right angles to the frame so that the pot head does not break through the top cardboard layer.

Attention! Between the sheet and the enclosing structures, a gap of 7-10 mm should be maintained, therefore, temporary linings suitable for the thickness are used in the floor area.

In order for the short joints of the sheets to also be on the metal, measured sections of the TsD or PN / PS profiles are screwed to them between the racks. When screwing in the self-tapping screws of the additional short sheet, one should not press hard on the jumper so as not to tear it off the panel on which it is already fixed.

If the sewing is carried out in several layers, then the vertical joints of sheets of different tiers must be made on different racks.

A very important point is the docking of drywall on the opening. To avoid cracks, the sheet should always be wound onto a short post located above the door (at least 20 cm).

When the lining of the partition on one side is made, it is possible to carry out the necessary communications, insert embedded elements. It is convenient to use moisture-resistant plywood 20-30 mm thick as mortgages for heavy objects, OSB and dry timber can also be suitable. Sheets of plywood of a suitable size through the body of drywall (between the racks) in the specified places are screwed with a large number of self-tapping screws. Mortgages for low-lying weights (for example, heating radiators) can rest against the floor.

At this stage, a soundproof layer is laid in the cavity of the gypsum board wall, after which the frame is sewn on the other side. Sheets entering the opening are cut off with a saw and a knife, the cut edges of all panels are embroidered.

Attention! The joints of the sheets with which different sides of the partition are sheathed should not fall on the same bearing rack.

The device of corners and junctions

Docking of GKL partitions (T-shaped and corner) should be done only through a sheet of drywall. It is recommended to fasten the mating frame with metal screws (35 mm long) to the mortgage post of the adjacent wall, therefore additional substations should be provided in the right places.

A difficult knot is an indirect angle. To organize it, the extreme profiles of the PS of the mating planes are installed in the guides as close as possible to each other, and then on both sides of the corner they are twisted with curved strips of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The bandwidth should be sufficient to reach neighboring substations. The corner is tied to the entire height of the seam.

Round plasterboard partition

To make a curved partition, the guide profile is cut with a grinder into sectors 5-10 cm wide. Along the outlined radius, the PN is fixed with a large number of fasteners - at least one dowel / self-tapping screw must be used for each sector.

Racks on roundings are inserted with an interval of no more than 300 mm and are fixed in the design position in accordance with the general rules.

Radius sheathing can be done in three ways:

1. Two layers of arched drywall 6 mm thick are placed horizontally. The pairing of the two-layer sheathing with flexible sheets and the single-layer sheathing of the main partition must be brought to the plane of the main wall.
2. A 12.5 mm wall plasterboard panel is pricked with a spiked roller, moistened by spraying and deformed on a template, after which it is screwed horizontally (the minimum allowable radius is 1000 mm). Rolling is performed from the front side for the outer arc and from the back side of the sheet for the inner arc.
3. The 12.5 mm wall sheet is cut into sectors about 5 cm wide (the remaining layer of paper cannot be damaged) and screwed vertically to the frame. Then the structure is stretched with putty.

As you can see, the technology for making drywall partitions is quite simple. If you perform all operations carefully and follow the rules indicated by us, you can assemble any piers of any complexity, because this is just a constructor.

Related videos

However, when embarking on an independent construction of a partition, it is important not to lose sight of anything. After all, only in this case it is possible to achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Having decided on the place for erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools.

Having decided on the place for erecting a drywall wall with your own hands, you can begin to form a list of materials and tools. At this stage, you will need to make a number of measurements that will be needed for further calculations. Not only the height and width of the room at the place of construction of the partition are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows. After all the dimensions have been fixed by you, you can arm yourself with a calculator and start compiling a list of necessary materials.

After all, only in this case it is possible to achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money at the same time.

Calculation of the necessary materials

The basic list of materials is as follows:

• guide and rack profile;
• sealing tape;
• self-tapping screws and dowels for fastening the profile;
• drywall;
• self-tapping screws for fixing drywall;
• wooden beam to reinforce the profile around the doorway;
• heat-insulating material;
• sleeve for insulation of electrical wiring.

Not only the height and width of the room at the place of construction of the partition are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or the purchase of an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations. With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future partition. To do this, we multiply the height of the room by its width at the installation site of the drywall wall and subtract the area of ​​the doorway from the resulting number. If a single-layer cladding is planned, then the result must be multiplied by 2, in the case of a two-layer sheathing, by 4. For a wall, it is best to take standard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Depending on the characteristics of the room, you have to make a choice between simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

In order to prevent unnecessary spending or the purchase of an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations.

The guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling. Based on this, we simply multiply the length of the future wall by 2 and get the desired amount of profile. With a rack profile a little more difficult. The recommended distance between the racks is 60 cm, so first you need to divide the width of the room measured in cm by 60, thus finding out the required number of racks. Then the resulting number is multiplied by the height of the room. Add two more wall lengths to the resulting number - these are jumpers to strengthen the structure.

With drywall, everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future partition.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness. An alternative to a beam can be a reinforced thick-walled AU profile. The quantity is simple: the length of the two racks adjacent to the door plus the width of the doorway.

The guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling.

Cooking tool

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a wall of drywall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools necessary for the work. You will need:

• roulette;
• plumb and level;
• metal scissors;
• construction knife;
• plane;
• screwdriver;
• grater.

Depending on the characteristics of the room, you have to make a choice between simple and moisture-resistant drywall.

The key to success: correct layout and installation

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup. It is better to start from the floor. Then, using a plumb line, the walls and ceiling are marked. It is very important not to forget about a few nuances:

1. When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to attach to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators. Without doing this, you can get a room with a visual curvature, because right angles are very rare in buildings and the wall opposite the partition can be oblique in relation to the other two.
2. The line you have drawn is an indicator for laying the guide profile, respectively, the partition will protrude beyond this line by the thickness of the drywall sheets, plaster and finishing material.

Work with a metal profile

Having finished with the markup, you can proceed to fixing the guide profile. Its laying is carried out using a sealing tape. Fix the guide profile with dowels and self-tapping screws. There should be an interval of no more than 50 cm between the fasteners. The edges of the guide profile are fixed without fail.

The next step in assembling the frame is to install and fix the rack profile along the edges of the guide. Then the racks of the doorway are installed facing each other. The distance between them should be taking into account the forthcoming sheathing of the hl. Next, the installation of the remaining racks is carried out, while the first of them is located at a distance of 55 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones are placed at an interval of 60 cm.

Drywall sheathing is a simple matter, but requires compliance with certain rules.

The distance between the uprights is measured from their centers. It is recommended that the carrier profile is first inserted into the lower guide, then into the upper one. Racks are fixed only after checking its position with a plumb line or level. If there is a dwelling on the floor above, then when laying the profile, it is advisable to use a building film. Its laying at the point of contact between two profiles will help to avoid the characteristic creak that is heard during a short-term increase in load.

The next step will be the installation of horizontal struts designed to strengthen the structure. To do this, it is necessary to cut the profile of the desired length, which is equal to the interval between the uprights plus 30 cm. Then, on the basis of the cut, marks are made on each side 15 cm from the cut line. After that, the sidewall of the profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, with a slope from the edge to the mark, and give it a U-shape. The workpiece is placed between the racks and fixed. The resulting ears are attached to the outside of the carrier profile.

The tightness of the sheets at the junction depends on the correctness of the cutting.

Similarly, horizontal lintels of door and window openings are installed. However, if they are planned to be rounded, then it is necessary to fix an additional spacer between the rack and the jumper at the desired angle.

Communications

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the laying of electrical wiring. First, it is threaded into a protective metal or non-combustible plastic corrugation sleeve. Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places. In this case, it is important to bend the edges of the hole to one side and bend, in order to prevent damage to the wiring. Then the wires are pulled to the desired points of the structure.

A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is carefully broken off.

How to avoid mistakes?

Drywall sheathing is a simple matter, but requires compliance with certain rules. So, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks as a result of subsidence, it is recommended to leave a 10-15 mm gap along the lower edge of the wall at the junction of drywall sheets and the floor. And the self-tapping screws are screwed into the hl with a depth of 1 mm so that the cap does not break through the top layer of cardboard.

The best option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls.

The tightness of the sheets at the junction depends on the correctness of the cutting. The best result will be with the following procedure. After placing the sheet on a flat surface, measurements are taken, the boundary is marked with a pencil. A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the gypsum is carefully broken off. The sheet is then turned over and placed again with a cut line at the edge of the support. The second layer of cardboard is trimmed, but not through, and carefully chipped off.

This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

One layer upholstery

This is the best option if you do not plan to mount weighty interior items on the walls. At possible mounting points for wall lighting fixtures, it is necessary to reinforce the drywall with plywood or build an additional spacer into the frame.

Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the right places.

If only hl is available to you, the length of which is less than the height of your apartment, then this is easy to fix without compromising the strength of the wall. It is simply necessary to use the experience of professionals when creating a wall with your own hands. The space not covered by the sheet is sheathed with fragments of the desired size. At the same time, it is necessary to avoid the coincidence of the seams at the same level, therefore, throughout the entire wall, whole sheets and their fragments must be alternated. That is, if in the first row a sheet is sewn from below, and a fragment is sewn on top, then in the next row there should be a fragment from below, and a solid sheet from above.

An important point when creating a drywall wall is the laying of electrical wiring.

All drywall joints should be chamfered. If there is no thinning of the sheet to the edge, then it must be formed using a planer. The edge of the sheet is thinned at an angle of approximately 22 degrees, but in such a way that a decrease in thickness of no more than 4 mm is observed on the cut line. Adjacent to the borders of the wall, the edges of the hl, on the contrary, should be devoid of a chamfer.

Double skin

A two-layer plasterboard wall sheathing is practiced when it is necessary to install a partition of increased strength. Sheathing rules differ little from a single-layer one, with the only exception: the joints of drywall sheets in the bottom sheathing layer do not have to be processed, forming a chamfer. It will only be needed on the sheets of the top layer.

Between fasteners there should be an interval of no more than 50 cm.

When sheathing the frame, it is also important to ensure that the seams do not match. To do this, the top layer is sewn with an offset of half the width of the sheet. In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points. Therefore, if with a single-layer sheathing it is sufficient to fasten with self-tapping screws with an interval of 25-40 cm, then with a two-layer sheathing, fixation on the profile with an interval of 15-20 cm is necessary.

When working with hl, avoid sudden movements.

Arch

If there is a desire to make a door or window opening semicircular, then you can independently bend a cut of the required size. To do this, you will need a frame of the required radius, which can be made from scraps of the same drywall and bars.

Adjacent to the borders of the wall, the edges of the hl, on the contrary, should be devoid of a chamfer.

Having prepared everything you need, a fragment of the hl of the desired size is cut off. Then one of its sides must be perforated with a needle roller and moistened with a sponge until a water mirror is formed. After that, the workpiece is moved to a frame prepared in advance and smoothly bent. The edges are fixed and left in this position until dry. After an hour, you can remove the clamps and, if the workpiece does not feel loose to the touch, proceed with the installation.

In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points.

First, the drywall arch is fixed in the center and edges, then screws are screwed in at all points of contact between the drywall and the frame. During the initial fixing of the sheet, it is important not to tighten the screws, leaving the cap 1-2 mm above the surface. Caps deepen after the leaf has completely dried.

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature not higher than 15 degrees.

Heat and sound insulation

An empty drywall wall is like a drum that doesn't store heat. Therefore, immediately take care of heat and sound insulation. The required amount of material is calculated based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall and the thickness of the profile. The choice of material depends entirely on your preferences and financial capabilities. Comparative characteristics of the most common materials can help you navigate.

Having finished with the markup, you can proceed to fixing the guide profile.

Soundproofing material is laid before sheathing the second side of the wall. It is important to compact the material, avoiding gaps between the frame and the layers of thermal insulation. Also, before laying, make sure that the electrical wiring is connected to all the intended points of the wall.

Finishing

First you need to lay a mounting grid along the joints of the HL and level the recess formed by chamfers with the general level of the wall with a starting putty.

The most important and crucial moment in the assembly of the frame of the future partition is the markup

It is recommended to strengthen the corner of the doorway using a building corner. It is laid on the starting putty and pressed tightly to the surface. Then, with a spatula, excess putty is removed, simultaneously leveling the general level of the partition. It is desirable to process the angle between the walls with a sickle.

In order to avoid problems in the process of erecting a wall of drywall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the tools necessary for the work.

The last step is to eliminate irregularities and roughness. To do this, you need to finish all the places of fixation with self-tapping screws with a finishing putty, simultaneously processing with it all the cracks and chips that appeared during the work. When the putty dries, it is important to smooth the surface using an abrasive mesh and floats. If in the future you plan to paint or paste over the wall with thin wallpaper, then it is definitely worth treating it with a primer.

When marking a plasterboard wall, it is necessary to attach to two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators.

What you should pay attention to

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature not higher than 15 degrees. Even if you are working with waterproof drywall, take care to impregnate the surface with a waterproofing compound, at least in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joints. When working with hl, avoid sudden movements. This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid on their own, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

If there is a door in the plans, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened with a wooden bar of the appropriate thickness.

VIDEO: Drywall partition. Video lesson. We do it with our own hands. All stages

Gypsum board in our time is extremely popular among professionals and amateurs, and is increasingly used in the installation of partitions and wall cladding in apartments and houses. Due to its lightness, the material can be freely used in multi-storey buildings or on the second floor or attic of a private house - this design will not exert a significant load on the floor. Ease of installation makes it possible for novice builders to independently install a partition or wall sheathing.

A do-it-yourself drywall partition can be installed after studying the sequence and rules of the process, familiarizing yourself with the nuances of working with this material.

It should be noted that drywall is used for mounting both blank walls and partitions with windows of various shapes. Its ability to take the desired shape, under the right conditions for this, makes it possible to make or arrange windows in partitions of a round or other curvilinear shape.

The ability of drywall sheets to undergo planned plastic deformation makes it possible to mount partitions with volumetric edges and with original shelves that can withstand rows of books or the installation of household appliances in them.

Partition with additional functions - shelves for books and household appliances

If earlier bulky standard furniture had to be dragged into the apartment, today, using drywall, you can create exclusive wall options that immediately perform two functions - a room space divider and a piece of furniture. It turns out a double saving of money and space, which is especially important for not too spacious apartments.

Materials for installing plasterboard partitions

What do you need to have to create such a partition, except for the main material - drywall?

All necessary materials are very easy to use and affordable

Of the additional materials, you need very little, and what is very important - all the necessary components for mounting such a wall have a very affordable price.

Another advantage of all materials for creating a plasterboard partition is that they will not pollute the premises of a house or apartment in the way that, for example, concrete mortars can do.

So, if you take into account all the possible options, then for the installation of the partition you will need:

• Propertyno, GVL themselves. Ordinary drywall, having a thickness of 12 mm - the most optimal option for partitions in rooms with normal humidity. When installing walls that will separate the bathroom, kitchen, bathroom, you will need a moisture-resistant drywall that has a soft green color - this is how the manufacturer highlights its functional features. There are other types of drywall, from which you can choose the right one, depending on the location of the partition and on its shape.

Drywall brand	Thickness in mm	Size in mm
GKL (normal)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLV (moisture resistant)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLO (fire resistant)	12.5	2500×1200
GKLO (fire resistant)	12.5	2600×1200
GKL (with a straight edge)	12.5	2500×1200
GKL (flexible)	6	2400×1200

• Metal profile and wooden bars for the frame, having a width of 75 mm, if between two canvases will be installed soundproofing material, and 50 mm if the space between the drywall sheets remains hollow or will fit thin insulation. In general, we can say that the profile width sets the wall thickness parameter.
• Self-tapping screws for metal structures and for wooden parts.
• Fiberglass mesh-serpyanka for reinforcing joints.
• Gypsum-based putty, starting and finishing - for sealing joints and eliminating surface defects.

It can be determined from this table, but it is recommended by experienced builders to take it more by 15% than will be calculated.

№	Material name	unit of measurement	The consumption rate of materials per 1 sq. m
1.	Drywall	sq.m.	1
2.	Profile CD 60	running meters	2
3.	Profile UD 27	running meters	2
4.	U-shaped universal bracket for mounting the material on the ceiling	PCS.	1.32
5.	Sealing tape	linear m	0.85
6.	Dowel 6/40 mm	PCS.	2.2
7.	Self-tapping screw 3.5 × 9.5 (flea)	PCS.	2.7
8.	Self-tapping screw 3.5 × 25 (for drywall)	PCS.	12
9.	Longitudinal connection for profile CD	PCS.	0.2
10.	Fiberglass mesh-serpyanka	linear m	1.1
11.	Putty for joints (starting)	kg	0.3
12.	Deep penetration primer	liters	0.1
13.	Putty for the surface of drywall sheets (finishing)	kg	1.2

Tools needed for the job

When installing a plasterboard partition, you can not do without some tools, the list of which includes:

• A screwdriver is a must, as you will have to tighten a large number of self-tapping screws, and with an ordinary screwdriver do this work will be extremely difficult.
• A long, preferably metal ruler, for marking and cutting drywall sheets along it.
• A construction square will be needed for marking and for checking the correct installation of parts during installation.
• Building level - to determine the horizontal and vertical planes and racks of the frame.
• Plumb - is necessary to determine the ideal vertical, by combining the points marked on the ceiling and on the floor.
• Pencil - for marking.
• Metal shears - used to prepare blanks of the desired length, for cutting notches on a metal profile.
• Electric jigsaw - for cutting off the necessary fragments of the bar and cutting drywall sheets, especially along curved markings.
• Spatula of medium width - for sealing joints with putty.
• Grater with fine and medium-grained sandpaper - for leveling putty on the seams and on the surface of GVL sheets.
• Primer - for processing the finished partition before painting.
• A knife or hacksaw with a fine tooth for drywall, a construction knife with replaceable blades.
• Planer with a beveled blade for chamfering.
• It would be nice to have a riveter for fastening a metal profile - this will greatly facilitate and speed up the work.
• Electric drill with a set of drills.
• A spiked roller will be needed if it is planned to give drywall curvilinear spatial forms.
• Folding ruler and tape measure.
• Hammer for driving dowels, screwdrivers for mounting the frame.

All these tools and fixtures are quite available for purchase in hardware stores.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Frame installation

Any construction work begins with measurements of the installation site, calculations and marking, and the installation of a partition is no exception.

markup

• It is most convenient to start marking on the floor. With the help of a building corner, a long ruler (building level, rules) and a pencil, a perfectly even line is outlined and drawn.

A metal profile guide will subsequently be attached along this line.

• The location of the doorway is immediately marked on this line - the guide will not be attached to this segment. The doorway is positioned in such a way that a certain piece of furniture can be placed on one or two sides - this must also be foreseen in advance.
• Now you need to project a line from the floor to the ceiling - this process is carried out using a plumb line, and in this case an assistant will be needed.

Transferring a point to the ceiling using a plumb line - top view ...

Having climbed the stairs, the assistant lowers the plumb line down, and presses its other end against the ceiling in the approximate area where the line passes.

... and at the same time - from below

The master marks a point on the floor with a cross, which needs to be projected onto the ceiling, the assistant slowly moves the suspension cord along the sense until the plumb-line cone ideally matches the point marked on the floor. When the target is reached, a mark is made on the point found on the ceiling. Thus, three points are found on the ceiling.

• In addition, vertical lines are drawn on the walls at right angles from the edges of the line on the floor to the ceiling - they will determine the beginning and end of the horizontal projection line.
• Having determined the points on the ceiling, a straight horizontal line is drawn along them - a guide will be fixed along it.

These two lines are very important, since the verticality of the future wall will depend on them. Therefore, their markup must be carried out with special care.

Frame installation

• The next step is the installation of guide profiles.

First, the profile is fixed along the line on the floor using dowels. As already mentioned, space is left for the doorway.

The holes for the dowels are drilled through the laid guides. Then they are removed, plastic plugs-dowels are hammered into the holes.

Hole done...
... and a dowel is driven into it

• The next step is to install the guides on the walls along the previously marked vertical lines. During the installation process, the position is constantly checked by level in order to prevent even the slightest play to the side.

The rest is exactly the same, but with constant control of verticality.

The bottom of the vertical profile is inserted into a horizontal rail mounted on the floor.

If the walls are concrete, then the fixing process takes place in the same way as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then dowels are not required for them. Self-tapping screws are screwed through the guides directly into the walls.

• Further, the guide is fixed to the ceiling in the same way as on the floors. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at a distance of 250 ÷ 300 mm from each other. The connections between the vertical and horizontal profile on the ceiling are made in the same way as on the floor - using self-tapping screws or using a riveter.

Step between dowels - 250-300 mm

• The next step is to determine and mark on the ceiling profile the location of the doorway, based on the bottom markings. This is done in the same way as before - with the help of a plumb line.

Height measurements are taken for the manufacture of guides that will be installed on the sides of the doorway. On standard profiles, the required length is marked, the required blanks are cut.

Now they need to be installed so that they designate a doorway.

• The guides around the doorway are reinforced with wooden bars that are inserted directly into them and screwed with self-tapping screws. Or, for the stability of the structure, another reinforcing profile is installed next to the first profile.

• After installing and strengthening the vertical profiles, the height of the doorway is measured on them. According to these marks, a horizontal crossbar is screwed from the desired section of the profile, and then a wooden beam is also inserted into it, to which vertical racks are screwed. Long self-tapping screws are screwed into the end of the crossbar, installed horizontally.

• Next, the space between the doorway and the walls is measured, and then the number of vertical posts is calculated, which must be fixed at a distance of about 300 ÷ 600 mm from each other.

Then the required number of blanks of the required length is cut. Racks are installed with their ends inside the guides on the floor and ceiling, with obligatory leveling. Fasten the profiles at the joints with self-tapping screws with large hats or rivets.

• For greater rigidity, especially with high ceilings, horizontal bars are also installed between the vertical posts.

electrical wiring

After the frame is fully assembled, electrical wiring is arranged inside it, if it is provided.

Wiring can be carried out after fixing the drywall on one side of the frame, or before that.

Holes are drilled in metal profiles through which wires are pulled, enclosed in insulating corrugated or smooth tubes. The ends of the wires are left outside.

Electric cable prices

Electrical cable

Cutting and fixing drywall

• After wiring, drywall is fixed on one side of the frame. It is screwed with black self-tapping screws specially designed for this purpose. At the same time, the heads of the self-tapping screws should go deep into the GKL by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.

• If necessary, this process is carried out as follows:

- measurements are taken of the place that needs to be closed on the frame;

- then, the cut can be made with a knife for cutting paper or drywall, as well as with a conventional hand saw;

Cutting drywall is easy

- if the cut is made with a knife, then the blade is driven along the established ruler, so that the top layer of cardboard and gypsum is cut through, but the bottom layer of cardboard remains intact;

- then, the sheet is bent along the intended line, and cut to the end at the place of the fold with a knife.

Ideally, there should be a chamfer at the joints

• The edge of the cut will not have a chamfer, and this is undesirable when sealing seams. The chamfer is made using a planer with a beveled knife.

• If it is planned to install sockets or switches in the partition, after wiring in drywall, holes are cut out with the help of special crowns of the required diameter, through which wires are brought out to connect the sockets after the partition is fully installed. However, on the finished half of the partition, you can install boxes for switches right away - it will be even more convenient.

Installation of boxes - socket boxes

• Upon completion of the installation of the material on one side of the frame, on its open side, it is laid between the guides. Usually mineral wool or isover is used for this process, and expanded polystyrene can also be used. Leaving the cavity empty is not recommended. It's not even about keeping warm - sometimes such a function is not needed. It is more important that the hollow wall does not become a sound resonator - the thermal insulation material here, rather, will play a role.

• Further, the second side of the frame is sewn up with drywall, in the same way as the first. If the sockets and the switch will be installed on this side of the wall, then their position is calculated in advance, the holes are cut out before the material is fixed to the frame. The wires for them are brought to the place where the hole will be located, and after installing the drywall they are brought out.

Door frame installation

• When the partition is ready, a box is installed in the doorway to hang the door.

• A wooden jamb with hinges already installed is leveled and fixed with powerful self-tapping screws in three or four places to the opening posts. Since wooden bars were previously installed in them, the jamb will be securely fixed.
• The heads of the self-tapping screws must be deepened into the thickness of the wooden racks of the box; for this, holes are pre-drilled in it “under zatay».
• Next, a door is hung on the installed box. Usually, the door leaf for such a design is selected as light as possible in weight so that it does not pull the partition to one side or the other. If the doorway is properly mounted and reinforced, then there should be no problems with the installation and operation of the door.
• If it turned out that the doorway turned out to be larger than necessary, then wooden spacers are installed between the racks of the partition and the jamb. It is desirable that it be thick plywood, as it will not crack when the door frame is screwed through it to the pillars. The remaining gaps between the jamb and the uprights in this case are filled with mounting foam. The foam must be allowed to expand and dry, after which it is cut off with a sharp construction knife.

The gap under the threshold is sealed with sealant.

Sealing joints on the surface of the partition

After installation is complete completed, you can proceed to sealing the joints of drywall sheets.

To do this, you need a grid-serpyanka. It is advisable to purchase a roll with glue already applied so that the mesh easily sticks to the cardboard surface.

• The mesh is glued to all, without exception, joints.

• Further, with the help of a spatula and starting putty, the joints are sealed, if possible, the seams to the ideal and removing all excess sealing material.

• When embedding joints between those sheets on which self-chamfering was carried out, before gluing the sickle, processing is done with a primer. It should dry well, and only after that you can stick the sickle and apply putty.
• Gaps around the doorway, sealed with mounting foam, it is also better to first impregnate with a primer, and then close up, like all other joints.
• In addition, it is imperative to seal the holes left from the caps of the screws with putty, otherwise they may appear through the decorative rust coating. After sealing the screws, the structure is left to dry completely.

• After the putty dries in certain parts of the partition, it should be completely covered. This coating will give the surface better adhesion, and the finishing putty will lie flat on the wall.
• Further, the dried surface is completely covered with a thin layer of finishing putty - this can be done with a wide spatula. The surface is leveled to the maximum so that there are no deep grooves from moving with a spatula.
• Further, after waiting for the putty layer to dry, it must be processed with a grater with the installed notnot and fine-grained sandpaper. Then, if necessary, another layer of putty is applied, which is also dried and processed with fine sandpaper.

• Before applying the decorative coating, the aligned walls are once again impregnated with a primer. Only after it dries, you can proceed to or paint the surface of the walls.

Video: installing a light drywall partition in the attic

If it's time to redevelop the attic or a large room on the ground floor, there is no doubt in choosing this particular method for building a partition. If you act in stages, following all the recommendations, then even the most inexperienced novice builder will be able to cope with this process on their own. Well, with the exception of some stages, when it is simply impossible to do without an assistant.

It is quite difficult to divide a large room into comfortable zones without using expensive materials and without resorting to the help of specialists. But you can make drywall partitions, which are easy to build, the material is inexpensive, and you can start handling it as a complete beginner. Partitions will help to make pronounced zones in a house or apartment, they can be created if you want to separate the space, but at the same time spend little time and money on this.

What is this article about

Why drywall

Drywall has many applications, but it is used most often to create partitions, so we will talk about the process of erecting drywall partitions, which can be made in any shape and size, it all depends on your imagination. Also, if you need to create a partition into which you can install a door and create sound insulation, insulation, then drywall is also perfect for this. It is very easy to use, you just need to purchase profiles for building a frame, some tools, and you can start creating a partition.

Plasterboard interior partitions are being erected in the place where you need to divide the room into zones. Perhaps it will be a study, a studio, a playroom for children, or just a beautiful partition that can advantageously emphasize the interior design and highlight the room with original decor. If you are interested in drywall products and want to build some structures in your home, we advise you to read articles about these products on our website.

If you started a renovation and are going to completely finish the room, then the use of drywall will be the best option in order to save the budget as much as possible, without compromising the quality of the repair. By the way, in the partitions you can arrange lighting and insulation, if, of course, you need it. We just want to point out that drywall is a very versatile material that can be used in a wide variety of areas and areas of construction and repair robots.

It has no restrictions on its use, therefore, almost anyone can start working with it to create the necessary structure with their own hands, most importantly, follow the instructions below and, if everything is done correctly, you will get a high-quality and beautiful partition.

Surface marking

You need to decide on the forms of the partition, for this you can look at interesting ideas on the Internet, if something interests you, you can sketch a similar shape on paper, add your decisions and preferences, and then start marking. Also, think about and decide whether you need to make insulation in the partition, because it allows it, but these are additional costs. If insulation is needed, for example, in a private house it will be very useful, since it is much harder to maintain heat in it than in an apartment, then create a frame and, in general, the whole structure is wider so that you can put insulation in it.

In the event that your work is related to sounds, perhaps you are a musician or a sound engineer, then it is better to use soundproof drywall to create a partition, which can effectively muffle most of the sounds that will stop disturbing both you and your neighbors. Also, it is possible to arrange spot lighting in the partition, which will create a unique atmosphere at night. In addition, such lighting will help you easily navigate around the apartment without turning on the main light, so you can save a little on electricity.

The selected form must be transferred to the wall and floor, that is, to make its projection onto the surface on which it will be installed. The very first thing that needs to be applied is the contours of the product, which will indicate the installation locations of the guide profile, which will greatly facilitate all further work. The profile that will be inside must be marked on the wall in the same way. Be careful here, the location of the guide profile is marked both on the wall and on the floor with the ceiling, as it will be directly attached to them. The rack profile is attached to the guide, and not to the surfaces, so you can only mark its location on the wall to make it easier during assembly.

If you are going to create interior partitions from drywall using insulation, then remember that the frame will need to be done much more so that there is room for the insulation itself. This means that when marking it will be necessary to take into account the location of the insulation. Also, we note that it will be difficult to make a backlight in a thin partition, so light partitions play a rather decorative role. Already in wider plasterboard partitions, you can create niches, lighting, and insulation, so decide what you need more.

Parts calculator

• Partition in 1 layer of drywall
• Partition in 2 layers of drywall

*Attention! All results are approximate - the accuracy depends on the material of the walls, the condition and shape of the room

Assembling the frame for the partition

To work you will need

• Guide profile (attached to the base), from which the base will be erected, on which the rest of the profile will be attached;
• Rack profile. The main part of the structure will consist of it, they create jumpers between the rails of the guide profile;
• Metal shears, screwdriver, drill, cutter (optional);
• A profile for bends (it is desirable to have, but you can use an ordinary profile, just specially notched). It is easy to bend, making it possible to create complex sections of large structures from it.

The rails of the guide profile must be installed where you made the markup. Use dowels and a drill to attach it to the base. If it is wooden, then you can use self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. First, install the rails on the ceiling, then, using a plumb line, fix them to the floor. A plumb bob should be used to check accuracy, as you may have made some distance errors during the stakeout phase, so always check for accuracy. Together with a plumb line, it is also better to use a laser level, which can draw perfectly straight lines in any direction.

The most important thing you need to remember when creating a wireframe. If you are creating a thin and light - a standard partition that will only perform decorative functions, then make one row of a guide profile. If there is a partition, inside which there will be a heater, a niche, lighting, a layer of sound insulation, then it is necessary to create a second row of the guide profile.

If the installation of the partition will take place in such a way that the room is completely divided into two parts, that is, all 4 walls will be involved (it happens that the partitions do not touch one wall or have a small height and do not reach the ceiling), then the guide profile will have to be located on each from 4 surfaces. After installing the guide profile, you can create jumpers from the rack profile. The frame will look like square honeycombs, plasterboard sheets will be installed on them and, if necessary, the insulation will be in these honeycombs from the profile.

Between themselves, the profile rails can be fastened with self-tapping screws, but you can purchase a special device that will make it easier to work - a cutter. It compresses the profile, thereby holding it together. Our note, the rack profile should always be perpendicular to the guide (except for additional reinforcement for large sizes), if this requirement is not met, then you are doing something wrong, so follow the direction of the profiles.

In the same way, a doorway is created from the profiles. If niches are planned in the partition, then the frame will need to be strengthened, but if it is a simple and light partition, then reinforcement can be dispensed with, the main thing is that the frame does not stagger. Connect the guide profile to each other with a rack, you can further strengthen the entire structure, but this is only necessary if an additional load is planned on the product ( except drywall sheets).

In those places where, according to the project, a bend will take place, it is also necessary to install a profile. To do this, you can use both a special factory one and a regular one, the cuts on which are made independently. The only plus of the factory profile is that it does not need to be cut, but you can immediately bend it, giving it the necessary shape. If you decide to make cuts on the profile yourself, then for this, take metal scissors and cut only 2 sides without touching the 3rd.

Sheathing the frame of the partition with sheets of drywall

Use drywall based on the type of room (fire-resistant or moisture-resistant, you can also use soundproofing). The most commonly used standard (gray) drywall. First, the sheathing should be done with whole pieces of drywall, and only then, when it will be impossible to use whole ones, smaller pieces should be used. Try to create as few seams on the product as possible.

Drywall is fastened to the frame with the same screwdriver and self-tapping screws, but they do not need to be sunk heavily into the sheet (limit - 2 mm). But you don’t need to screw them in so that the caps stick out a little either. The best option can be found by simply running a spatula over the sheet, if it does not catch anything, then everything is done correctly.

If redevelopment is not planned in the near future, then the surface will still need to be puttied. But that's only when you're done with the plating. The most difficult moment of the skin is the creation of bends. Rather, it is not difficult, it just requires some effort. The easiest way is to walk on the sheet with a spiked roller, wet it slightly, wait for the gypsum to soften, and fix the sheet on the frame.

This completes the creation of a plasterboard partition, it remains to apply plaster to the surface of the product to give an impeccable appearance to the structure. Then you can add various decorative elements to the partition, wallpaper or apply paint.

The main task of repair in apartments and houses is to bring the walls back to normal. Just a few decades ago, almost no one heard of perfectly even walls. Aligned, based on the principle of "at least somehow." The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: remove the old plaster and re-plaster the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls with GKL (plasterboard sheets).

The second task, which is most often solved in the process of repair work, is redevelopment. Old partitions are removed, and new ones are mounted in their place. Decorative and interior partitions are also installed using drywall. This article will discuss how to level and install drywall walls with your own hands: photo, video.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when it becomes necessary to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching drywall sheets to walls:

1. On a base of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, however, it is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate, first you have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cutting off the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fasteners on wooden bars is that when not dry enough (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they can “lead” during drying, therefore, the whole structure will warp. There is also the possibility of destruction of wood by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since lumber prices are much lower than profiles.

1. Installing sheets on a frame made of galvanized profile allows you to get a perfectly flat surface with any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps, from which the frame is assembled, so that the front part of the jumper and the rack lie in the same plane. Since the plasterboards are at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of the frame from the profile is the possibility of laying a sound pickup and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without a heater it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

1. Installation of drywall sheets immediately on the walls.

In other words, installing GKL on glue. Use "liquid nails" or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with slight differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in heaps, if there are differences, and in strips, if the walls are even), then the sheet is mounted in place, set using a level, fixed with props and wedges.

The latest technology - landing drywall on glue, the fastest, however, it also has disadvantages. Not everywhere there is glue under the sheets, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you previously planned to fix something to the wall, install a mortgage beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences, the surface is not perfectly smooth (difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the "pieces" of glue, the GKL bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video

So, when sticking a sheet on a wall, no fasteners are required, we will mainly talk about a metal frame. The rules for attaching to a wooden one are exactly the same, they just use special self-tapping screws for wood.

The purpose of drywall sheets and their dimensions

A few words about how to put GKL on the walls and what sizes they are. The standard dimensions are: height - 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are "non-standard", slightly shorter lengths. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 6 mm and 9 mm - designed for curved surfaces.

• 12.5 mm - universal material for ceiling and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer positions thin sheets, such as those used to finish uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be deployed inside the room.

How to join sheets

If it becomes necessary to join drywall sheets in height, try to arrange the joints so that a long line does not form, they are laid with a shift or apart, it is desirable that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By shifting the seam, with almost one hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed offset by half the width (60 centimeters).

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall mounting rules: photo, video

During installation, drywall sheets are pressed against the frame and fastened with special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 self-tapping screws (25x3.5 mm), in stores they are called “for drywall”. Color - white or black (more often breaks), length - 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, flat-head self-tapping screws of similar size are selected.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the desired depth: the cap should be drowned in the sheet, while not tearing the cardboard, it must also be twisted perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, so you reduce the likelihood of damaging the cardboard layer responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each drywall sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls on the middle of the profile.

Having indented from the edge of 10-12 millimeters, screws are screwed in. They can be displaced or placed above one another. Mounting step - 250-300 millimeters. Mounted on the middle profile and around the perimeter.

Another important point is the height of the installed sheet, it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for the change in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Partition for a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photo, video

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step.

1. Markup.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level (laser plane builder). This line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If there is no laser level, you will have to use a plumb line and a building level (high quality). Then, using the level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting line should be located strictly above the line on the floor, this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on it.

1. Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the marked line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW - bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6 * 60 or 6 * 40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is not more than 40 centimeters.

PN-profile has a standard wall height (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. The width of the carrier profile will determine how thick the soundproofing material or insulation can be laid there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the bearing capacity, make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the carrier, they must be identical. It is between them that a heater is installed.

Racks to rails are attached in several ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides, fastens two parts. Fans, during independent repair work with GKL, are attached to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (the holes do not need to be drilled). On each side of the rack is fixed with two self-tapping screws.

An important point, if you put a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling guide and the junction of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent the appearance of creaking. During walking, there is an oscillation that is transmitted to the profiles, as a result, the profiles rub, and a creak occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the drywall sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If, however, the gap is more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or in this area the sheet will bend and stagger. Another important point is that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is fixed with screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are stiffened with the help of jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are located at the height of the joining of two sheets, they must be fixed. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, put 80 cm each, if it is small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are a prerequisite for plasterboard sheathing. It is also desirable to strengthen them with a wooden bar.

1. Laying communications, plasterboard walls with your own hands: photo, video.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin to lay electrical wiring and communications. It is desirable to install all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on a wooden frame or in a wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses / apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-combustible material (marked "NG").

1. Sheathing with heat / sound insulation and drywall.

After laying communications, they begin to mount drywall sheets. They are installed exactly as when sheathing. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with plasterboard on the other side. For partitions and walls use conventional insulation.

• Styrofoam. One of the varieties of foam. It differs in cells of a closed form, due to which it has the best characteristics: fungi do not develop, rodents do not like it, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and is easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. Minus - high price.

• Styrofoam. To obtain excellent characteristics in terms of heat and sound insulation, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg / m3). It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burning, it releases hazardous substances and rodents love it.

• Mineral wool. This is stone wool (basalt is best), slag wool or glass wool. Basalt is considered the most environmentally friendly, because it does not contain formaldehyde. It is quite easy to work with them, they hold well by surprise, they are easy to cut, they are less afraid of moisture, they do not need respiratory and skin protection during installation. Their disadvantage is the high cost. The most affordable option of these heaters is slag wool, glass wool has an average price, and, of course, stone is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other heaters, but the ones listed above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When sheathing walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. This will require a clerical knife, a long, even object (rule, level, beam, board, ruler, etc.) and a wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

• On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you want to cut the sheet.

• We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video tutorials

Unfortunately, not all features of this process can be described, some are better to see with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. Since this is really one of the most time-consuming work, and how well the frame is formed depends on how even the partition and wall will be.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This is a non-standard way of assembling the frame, but the racks are really tough. This method must be used if a full-fledged partition between rooms is erected from the GKL, in which case the reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: grooved or smooth?

There are various profile models on the market, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of the metal, it is stiffer. How good it is in practice, look at the video.