Insulation of the walls of the house from gas silicate blocks. How to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks from the outside? Who will say how to insulate gas silicate

Built, ready and - now it's time to take care of the insulation of the house.

As is often the case on our blog, you can listen to the audio recording or read, see the photo, and if something is not clear, ask a question in the comments. I would like to add that the audio recording does not include all the material presented in this article. Therefore, if you are interested in the topic: " Do-it-yourself insulation of the house with polystyrene foam”, we still recommend that you read the article to the end - you will find a lot of interesting and useful things for yourself!

To insulate our house, we purchased polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) 80 mm thick, the foam brand is PSB-S 25. This is the most versatile and common brand of foam, which is effectively used for wall insulation: both internal and external.

How to properly insulate a block house with foam plastic? Below we will elaborate on:

• how to prepare the wall before its insulation;
• how to properly glue the foam;

So, let's start warming up.

Preparing a wall from a gas silicate block for its insulation with polystyrene foam (polystyrene foam)

• Before you begin to attach the foam to the outer walls of, they must be cleaned of building dust. To do this, we used a spray gun. If there is no spray gun, you can use a brush and thoroughly clean the surface of the wall with it;

• If the walls are uneven, they must be leveled. Any unevenness of the wall (convexity or concavity) of more than 1 cm will inevitably lead to a breakdown of the insulation;

• Walls need to be primed. It is better if you use a brush to prime the block wall. It will serve additional cleaning from construction debris and dust;

• Before gluing the foam around the windows and under the window, you need to stick a mesh, which we will then use for reinforcement. The grid is attached to the wall with glue or a stapler;

• The mesh is sold in rolls, so for convenience when working, we cut the mesh into strips about 40 cm wide. The mesh was glued in such a way that about 10 cm of the mesh was under the insulation, and the rest of the mesh after gluing the foam could be wrapped and glued onto the foam. In this case, it must then be connected to the main mesh, glued to the foam after gluing and nailing it to the wall;

How to fix insulation (polystyrene) to the wall of a gas silicate house

• We purchased an adhesive mixture for thermal insulation boards made of expanded polystyrene. There are a lot of manufacturers of mixtures, we recommend that you take an adhesive mixture that is not very expensive, but you need to choose a reinforcing mixture that is more expensive: it will be easier to work with it in the future;

• Our walls are quite even, so when we worked, we did not pull the threads, but only worked with the level. If the walls are even, it is enough to ensure that the styrofoam (polystyrene) slabs are tightly joined to each other, and at the same time they are in the same plane;

• We mixed the glue in a bucket. First, water was poured into the bucket, approximately half of the bucket, then the mixture was poured in accordance with the instructions, then the glue was evenly mixed with water using a mixer;

• Ready adhesive mixture applied to the foam with a spatula. Then, with a large-toothed comb (special notched trowel), the mixture was evenly distributed over the foam sheet. We apply an additional portion of glue in the center and edges of the sheet;

• If the wall is uneven, then it is better to apply the adhesive mixture to the wall. So you can level the wall a little by applying more glue into recesses on the wall and smaller - on the bulge. Also, in an intermittent row, apply glue to the wall along the perimeter of the sheet. This technology will allow you to tightly glue the sheet of insulation to the wall;

• Then we firmly press the plate with glue applied to it and tap it against the wall. The plates must be glued in a checkerboard pattern to form T-shaped joints, but you should start sticking the sheets from the bottom row;

• Our house has a protruding plinth. We decided on the width of the plinth, knowing what material for laying the walls and what kind of insulation we will then use, i.e. the width of the plinth was chosen taking into account the fact that after sticking the insulation (polystyrene 80 mm wide) and further plastering the wall surface, the plinth turned out to be sinking. We talked about this in detail in;

• Because the basement of the house is protruding - the foam sheets of the lower row rest on it. If your house does not have a protruding plinth, you can nail a special profile along the bottom into which the foam sheets are inserted, as it were. If you do not “fix” the lower edge of the insulation sheets, then the sheets can crawl along the wall until the glue sets.;

• After a day or two, you can begin to nail insulation sheets with special dowels - “umbrellas”. Umbrellas are nailed 5 pieces per sheet: one in the center, four in the corners of the sheet. It is better to use "umbrellas" with a plastic rod to reduce the impact. It is necessary that the umbrella be sunk 1-2 mm into the insulation.

Insulation reinforcement - applying a reinforcing layer to the foam plastic along with the mesh

• Before proceeding with the reinforcement of the insulation, it is necessary to level the walls:

1. putty umbrellas;
2. align the protruding fragments of polystyrene with a special grater;
3. to eliminate the gaps between the sheets of foam using putty, polyurethane foam or pieces of foam (depending on the width of the gap);
4. we attach a layer of putty to the foam part of the mesh located near the window, Bottom part which is under a layer of foam (we wrote about this above);

We prime the insulation, because during the work with it it got smeared.

As a result of the work carried out, a leveled, clean, primed wall surface with insulation should be obtained, ready for reinforcement.

Now we apply a reinforcing layer with a mesh. It is recommended to apply first one layer, then the second layer, into which the mesh is puttied.

• It is more correct to start reinforcing the insulation with a reinforcement mesh (fiberglass mesh) from the corners of the house. You can (and more correctly) use a plastic or metal perforated corner - this method is used for pasting the catch on the first floor of the house, because. blows or pressure on the corners of the first floor of the house are possible with further possible deformation of the insulation;

• puttying the mesh on the corners, as well as on the walls, occurs as follows:

1. measure and cut off the required piece of mesh;
2. with a spatula, a solution is applied with a thickness of about 2 mm;
3. a mesh is applied;
4. then, with a spatula, the grid is tightly pressed against the foam plastic with movements to the sides and down - as when pasting walls with wallpaper;
5. the mesh must be laid with an overlap of about 10 cm.

Reinforcement with a mesh creates a single surface on the insulation, which will then help to avoid cracks and delaminations on the facade.

If you have financial problems or winter is very close, the house can be left to winter in this state. Do not worry, our house has already survived the winter and nothing happened to it - in the spring the house looked the same as before.

Finishing work with facade decorative plaster for insulation

After reinforcement, we apply a special primer Contact - plus.

We used plaster facade plaster bark beetle There are also a lot of manufacturers of such plaster - choose any. The bark beetle can be both colored (with the addition of pigment) and for painting. The material is expensive but worth it. The facade will look decent for a long time.

How to apply bark beetle plaster correctly? On the facades, plaster with solid particles of 1.5 - 3.5 mm in size looks more interesting.

The plaster must be applied with a metal spatula with a thickness equal to the size of the bark beetle particles. Immediately, without waiting for drying, with a grater we make circular movements or up and down movements. The further “drawing” of the plaster will depend on this.

Wet the grater more often - it will be easier to work. After drying, go over the grater again, but with great effort. Here it is important to “catch”, “feel” the material in order for the drawing to turn out spectacular.

It is desirable to apply the plaster on the entire surface immediately from corner to corner. Otherwise, the joint may be noticeable.

After complete drying, paint can be applied. On this wall insulation, at the same time, the decoration of the facade is completed.

Insulation of the walls of the house with polystyrene foam, followed by facing them with bricks

The veranda of the house is insulated not only with polystyrene, but also with bricks. In our case, the brick is not only a heater, but also an element of decor. Used for cladding old brick, from which, among other things, the columns of the veranda were laid out. Such a naturally aged brick looks very decorative after coating it with varnish.

In addition, the brick previously used in construction is of good quality (which is important) and more low price, which is also very important in the construction low cost home. We are, remember?

The foam attachment technology is exactly the same as described above.

Now we veneer the walls with bricks as follows:

• We provide a gap of 1-2 cm between the insulation and brickwork;
• We lay a row of bricks with;
• Then, over the stacked row of bricks, we drive nails into gas silicate blocks through the insulation so that part of the nail with the hat lies on the brick. The next layer of mortar is laid on driven nails and bricks;
• Nails need to be driven in every 3-4 rows of brickwork.

Thus, breaking through the wall with nails at regular intervals, and lay out the brick to the required height. Depending on the appearance used brick, you can get a different effect.

How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete, what thermal insulation material to choose? These questions concern many who have decided to build a house from cellular materials. Because the distinguishing feature aerated concrete - vapor permeability, this property must be preserved.

At thermal insulation materials this coefficient should be somewhat lower than that of the material from which the walls are built. If this parameter is higher, there is a possibility of moisture accumulation.

Is it possible to use foam plastic for insulation, a material that is very popular? How to properly insulate the gas silicate walls of the house?

Styrofoam properties

Like aerated concrete, foam plastic has positive and negative qualities.

Material advantages

• Polyfoam is environmentally friendly, does not emit toxic substances.
• Durable, does not decompose.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• High vapor barrier properties.
• Fireproof, fire resistant, self-extinguishing.
• Short specific gravity, does not weigh down the structure.
• Relatively inexpensive material.

Foam properties - thermal conductivity, long service life and relatively good vapor permeability

Material disadvantages

• Fragility, foam crumbles easily.
• Destroyed in contact with nitro paints, enamels, varnishes.
• Doesn't let air through.
• The material can be damaged by rodents, so it needs protection.

When choosing a foam plastic as a heater for aerated concrete outside, it is necessary to take into account all its qualities. The vapor permeability coefficient of the material is lower than that of aerated concrete blocks. This problem can be solved by providing additional ventilation.

Insulation of aerated concrete walls with foam plastic will increase the degree of sound insulation, eliminate temperature fluctuations in the house, and reduce heating costs

The sequence of works on the installation of foam from the outside

To insulate the facade of the building, it is necessary to adhere to the following sequence

1. Surface preparation. The surface of aerated concrete must be cleaned of dirt, glue, dents and other irregularities should be leveled;
2. Application of a primer on the outside for porous materials;
3. Along the perimeter of the windows, it is recommended to reinforce with fiberglass mesh. Its size should be such that 10 cm enter under the insulation;
4. Bonding foam boards. For this, a special one is used. Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is evenly distributed over small area walls outside the house or on a sheet of insulation. The foam is pressed against the wall with light movements. All joints are processed with glue;
5. For additional fastening outside, plastic long dowels with a cap are used - an umbrella in the middle of the sheet and at its corners;
6. The sheets will be glued correctly with an offset, just like when laying blocks;
7. Application of the first plaster layer on the foam, followed by gluing the reinforcing mesh. The joints of the mesh must be overlapped, so that subsequently cracks will not form;
8. Application of the second layer of plaster;
9. Facade painting.

Highlights at work

In construction there is such a thing as "dew point". The formation of condensate will depend on its location. When erecting walls, the point is in the blocks themselves, but when they begin to insulate, there is a gradual shift, moreover, towards the heat-insulating material.

High-quality insulation is a guarantee comfortable conditions in room

Consider the following points

• The house must be properly ventilated.
• It is necessary to choose the right thickness of the foam, taking into account the indicators for heat engineering. Insulate walls outside thin sheets 2 - 4 cm is possible, but it will be a big mistake. The temperature in aerated concrete should always be positive. The central regions of Russia are characterized by low winter temperatures, sheets 10 cm thick - The best decision, then it will be warmer in the house.

We emphasize once again that the foam plastic passes vapors worse, thus, the humidity of aerated concrete walls increases by an average of 6 - 7%. Humidity can be reduced with a good ventilation system. , easy waterproof material. It has poor vapor permeability. Other materials for facade insulation, such as extruded polystyrene foam and foam glass, are not so popular in use.

How important it is for the house to "breathe" is up to you. You can make a house "breathe" if you provide both good hood and air intake.

Today, facade insulation with foam plastic is one of the most inexpensive methods, and is very popular, since the main purpose of insulation is to keep warm. With this problem, a material such as polystyrene does an excellent job.

Gas silicate is a foamed material with a porous structure, which is obtained by combining white lime in an autoclave kiln, quartz sand, water and aluminum powder. In Russia, unlike in Europe, the mass construction of block gas silicate houses began recently. Insulate such a building or get by with wall decoration protective coatings, depends on climate zone, material thickness and construction specifics.

Is it necessary to insulate gas silicate blocks?

Gas silicate material is a good heat insulator. The air layers that linger in its pores prevent the penetration of cold air currents into the house. At quality installation on a special glue, the blocks fit as tightly as possible to each other. The adhesive layer is very thin, so the total area of ​​​​all cold bridges will be small.

Mineral wool insulation of walls made of gas silicate blocks, where as facing material floor-brick laying is used, it will be reliable, durable and environmentally friendly. Between masonry and gas silicate wall triples special ventilation gap several centimeters thick. Entrust all the work to the professionals of the "Project" company, who thoroughly know all the subtleties of this work.

External enclosing structures of buildings, made of gas silicate blocks, which, due to their porous structure, have effective heat-shielding qualities, in some cases need additional thermal insulation. Insulation of walls made of gas silicate blocks from the outside is the most effective way thermal protection.

Why insulate

Sometimes insulation of gas silicate walls from the outside is required if the reason for additional thermal insulation is that during the construction of the building the thickness of the outer walls was chosen incorrectly and freezing occurs, leading to inefficient consumption of thermal energy and associated economic losses.

Another reason may be that during the repair, the owner of the building decides to transfer the not very effective thermal insulation of the premises with inside facade walls on their outer surface. Device external thermal insulation is not allowed without external decoration, which, in addition to its decorative properties, serves as protection against mechanical damage and aggressive weather conditions. Therefore, thermal protection is usually installed in parallel with exterior trim building. An added advantage there is an increase in the internal volume of the premises adjacent to the outer walls.

Processes affecting thermal insulation

Why is it better to insulate walls from the outside rather than from the inside? This is due to a process called vapor permeability. In the process of finding a person in a room, steam is mainly released from his breath. If the building envelope is vapor-tight, the steam, instead of passing through the walls, condenses on them, creating humid environment, which adversely affects the walls and their interior decoration or facing. However, the most active exchange of steam-air gases through the outer walls occurs in winter time of the year.

Steam migration occurs in the direction from heat to cold. If the insulation is located inside, when the walls freeze at the border of the insulation and aerated concrete block condensation also accumulates. It is absorbed by the insulating material, which also usually has a porous structure and drastically reduces its protective properties.

The location of the thermal insulation on the outside and the use of special film vapor-permeable, but at the same time waterproofing membranes, allows the most efficient use of the desired properties of aerated concrete blocks and the material selected for additional insulation.

What materials are used for thermal insulation

What is the best way to insulate a house? The most common materials used as insulation for gas silicate blocks
are foam boards and mineral wool mats.

Styrofoam insulation consists in the use of flat slabs consisting of expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam produced in the form of plates different thickness and sizes. Styrofoam is easily cut, sawn, drilled. When using the right adhesive, it adheres well to the wall of gas silicate blocks.

Mineral wool is available under various trademarks, such as ISOVER, KNAUF, URSA in rolls or plates with a thickness of 45 to 200 mm, dimensions: in width - from 60 to 1200 mm, in length - from 1170 to 10000 mm. Warming with mineral wool and its fixing on the facade is carried out with the help of special dowels for gas silicate blocks.

Sometimes cement-sand or cement-lime plaster can be used with a porous filler - perlite or vermiculite sand, having a bulk density of up to 50 kg / m3. Foamed plastic granules are used as a porous component. When using such plaster, before painting the facade, it must be treated with deep penetration impregnation.

Another way to properly perform gas silicate insulation is to arrange a so-called ventilated facade. This is a type of decoration of the exterior walls of the house, when cladding panels assigned to established metal carcass, whose profiles can be made of galvanized sheet, stainless steel, aluminum. A gap of at least 5 cm is left between the finishing sheets and the wall. Ambient air moves freely through it, which removes and dries the condensate and moisture formed as a result of temperature changes from the building wall.

When using ventilated façade systems or KMEW-type fiber cement panels, it should be taken into account that they can create additional stress on the foundations and the subgrade. Therefore, before starting work, it is better to consult with specialists and perform a verification calculation. bearing capacity with changing efforts.

The specifics of the work

Most of the materials used for exterior finish facades require preliminary installation of frames or battens. Frames are needed to level the surface of the walls and to securely fasten the cladding, which can be used for such facade products as, starting with fairly expensive fiber cement panels and ending with cheap pressed plastic siding, produced both in the form of the so-called eurolining, and in form sheet materials, laminated with a film with a pattern in the form of stone, wood, and other facing materials.

Frames are made from wooden slats section 50 x 50 mm or metal stamped strips made of galvanized sheet. The insulation is laid and fixed to the wall of gas silicate blocks with glue in the spaces formed by horizontal and vertical elements crates.

Between the frame and the insulation there should be no gaps and cracks that form cold bridges and reduce the effectiveness of thermal protection.

For waterproofing external insulation it is better to use membranes or films that can combine vapor permeable, hydrophobic and windproof properties. These materials are divided into types, such as:

• perforated; they can have internal reinforcement of glass-polymer fine mesh and be made of one or more layers;
• porous; formed compressed from fibers, between which channels and pores are formed; because of light pollution, they are not recommended for use in conditions of heavily dusty and gassed outdoor air;
• woven; made of polyethylene or polypropylene threads (a similar fabric is used as modern burlap), are used in exceptional cases, do not cope well with waterproofing and are not good choice as a vapor permeable membrane;
• multi-layer, consisting of 3 layers or cheaper - 2-layer have good wind protection and practically do not get dirty.

Do I need to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks 400 mm

Most regions of our country are located in complex climatic conditions, characterized by winters with severe frosts, as well as very hot summer periods. If the owner of the house wants to save money, he can accept any thickness of the outer walls in his house. Including 400 mm, that is, in 1 block. Compared to this, most brick houses have a wall thickness of 500 mm (2 bricks). If the walls of the house will freeze through in winter, in summer those living in it will suffer from heat - the choice was made wrong. The thickness of the walls of buildings also depends on its number of storeys, wind roses and their intensity. Learning from your own experience is a thankless task. Therefore, it is better to contact the construction organization, which employs specialists in the field of building physics. They will perform a heat engineering calculation and give recommendations on the thickness of the walls, based on the specified parameters.

A bathhouse with a steam room on the site is a structure that provides its owner and healthy lifestyle life, and entertainment - where else you can enjoy spending time with your family, relatives and colleagues.

Like the main house, the bath can be built from gas silicate blocks. Insulation of this building, first of all, will be required in order to save cash on combustible materials required for kindling. How to warm it up? Internal insulation the walls of the bath is impractical for the same reasons indicated above:

• useful internal volume will be lost;
• on the border internal thermal insulation and walls will accumulate condensate, saturating porous thermal insulation with water, depriving it of a significant portion of its effectiveness and creating conditions for the appearance of fungus and mold;
• temperature and humidity conditions in the bath and its effect on building construction much more aggressive than the same mode in the main house.

As in all other cases, the thermal insulation of a gas silicate bath is best done with outer side baths. To do this, you can fully use the same methods that the main house on the site was insulated. However, as practice shows, best results by the ratio - fuel economy / insulation efficiency are obtained when used for separately standing baths, saunas, thermal insulation of steam rooms - ventilated facades.

Like many others construction works- the technology of thermal insulation of the outer walls of houses made of gas silicate blocks is quite accessible for self-implementation. However, experience is needed. Any mistake, even if it may seem insignificant at first glance, can lead to marriage and to the fact that expensive materials can be damaged, and the work will require significant alteration. Therefore, if you are unsure of your abilities, it is better to invite specialists who, within a reasonable time and with good quality perform external thermal insulation.

A house made of gas silicate blocks is considered one of the best in terms of thermal insulation. This is mainly due to the structure of the material, which is almost 90% air. The rest is a mixture of sand, cement, limestone and water according to a certain technology. It is not always necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete due to the characteristics of the material, however, in middle lane rather severe winter frosts prevail in our country.

Houses made of gas silicate have quite high thermal insulation characteristics Therefore, it is recommended to additionally warm them only in regions with severe frosts.

They do not allow you to do without warming. This is a natural process. How to insulate a house from gas silicate outside, and will be discussed further.

Materials for insulation

Warming a house from gas silicate blocks involves the use of a wide variety of materials. Most often, however, two varieties are used - this mineral wool and foam. It is worth talking about the advantages and disadvantages of both technologies in more detail.

When insulating a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands using foam, do not forget about the ease of installation of this material. It can be mounted with ease, besides, a wide variety of tools can be used for sawing it. Some for these purposes use the usual construction knife and some use a hacksaw.

It all depends on the desire and capabilities of the person. At the same time, the foam has a lot of disadvantages that make this technology less in demand. The fact is that the foam has a low air permeability. At the same time, the main material, namely gas silicate blocks, have a higher indicator of this characteristic.

As for mineral wool, it is more acceptable as a heater for a house made of gas silicate blocks. It's simple perfect option which is widely used today. Mineral wool perfectly passes air and keeps it warm. This material is a little more difficult to mount, but the characteristics of the walls will always be on top.

There are other materials that are widely used for the same purposes, but they are used much less frequently than those discussed above.

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Tools and materials

So, now it’s worth talking about what you may need to insulate a house from gas silicate blocks with your own hands. Here you will need to acquire the following:

• thermal insulation material, this case we will talk about mineral wool;
• dowels;
• glue;
• perforated corners;
• container for diluting glue;
• building level;
• fiberglass mesh;
• perforator;
• putty knife.

Basically, this should be enough to carry out the entire complex of events.

Now you can proceed directly to the insulation of the house from gas silicate blocks. To begin with, you will have to carefully prepare. The wall is cleaned of various dirt, dust, and all defects are eliminated on it. This is done in order to improve the adhesion of the surface to the mineral wool through the use of an adhesive. If there are large defects on the wall, then they must also be eliminated. This is done through plaster and primer. Only thorough surface preparation will allow all work to be carried out with the highest quality. At the level ground floor it is worth installing the frame.

It will serve as an additional support for the insulation. Beacons should be placed at the corners of the house. This is followed directly by the process of attaching mineral wool to the wall. First you need to smear the surface itself and cotton wool with glue. This will improve the properties of the materials to be fastened. During installation, it is imperative to avoid the formation of cruciform joints. Do not forget about the additional fastening of the material. For these purposes, special dowels are used. They are umbrellas. They should be placed along the perimeter of the mineral wool slab, and it is also possible to additionally mount in the center.

It is worth noting the fact that mineral wool itself is soft material which deserves further strengthening.

It is for these purposes that fiberglass mesh is used. Glue is preliminarily applied to the surface of the insulation, and then the fiberglass mesh itself is installed. An additional layer of glue is applied over the mesh.

After the process of reinforcing the insulation is completed, it is imperative to additionally insulate the corners of the building, door and window openings. This is done extremely simply. For these purposes, the same perforated corners that were purchased earlier are used.