The procedure for making a stove with your own hands is simple. Do-it-yourself rough stove: from a simple country stove to a two-story one for a house with a heated attic. What materials are used for laying a brick oven?

The question of how to build a brick stove for a house with your own hands does not cease to be relevant today, since comfort and warmth have always remained important conditions for a person to good rest after a busy day at work. Therefore, in Lately More and more city residents are moving from panel high-rise buildings to private houses, where they have the opportunity to create a comfortable environment at any time of the year.

Due to the demand for various models of furnaces, engineers continue to develop new options suitable for buildings with different areas. It should be noted that even when all the “blessings of civilization” are present in the house, a small cozy stove will never be superfluous and will help out in various situations. For example, it can be heated on cold spring or autumn evenings, when it is humid or raining outside, without starting the heating system. Such a structure will help create an optimal balance of temperature and humidity in the house, which will be comfortable for a person. In addition, the oven will be an excellent assistant in cooking or drying vegetables, herbs and fruits.

Since there is a large number of different models of heating structures, then you should choose for self-laying a stove with the most affordable, easy readable diagrams, especially if there is little or even no experience in this craft. Naturally, it is necessary to take into account other factors that directly affect the efficiency of the stove - its power, dimensional parameters, functionality, and also the aesthetic appearance is also important. And in order to choose the right stove model, you need to consider the criteria that you need to focus on when determining the desired option.

How to choose the best oven option?

Choosing a furnace installation location

In order for the furnace to be fireproof, efficient, and its power to be used to the maximum extent possible, this structure must be installed correctly, taking into account some nuances.

Firstly, it is decided how much area can be allocated for installing the stove.
Then, you need to decide on a specific location:

— the stove is installed in the center of the room, dividing it into separate zones;

— built into the walls, between two or three rooms;

- erected near the wall, with a distance of 250÷300 mm from it, if you need to heat only one room. However, it must be taken into account that this option is the most losing, since most of the heat generated by the rear walls will not be fully used.

Having chosen an approximate location, you need to immediately mark it, starting from the ceiling, using a plumb line, since the pipe must pass through attic floor between beams and rafters, and at a distance from them of at least 120÷150 mm.
When allocating an area for the furnace, it is taken into account that for its foundation it is necessary to provide more space than its base, by 100–150 mm on each of its sides.
To avoid any problems with regulatory organizations, when choosing an installation location, you need to take into account not only the recommendations presented above, but also the standards developed by specialists and specified in SNiP 41-01-2003.

Calculation of the required power and assessment of firewood consumption

A furnace will not be efficient and will not be able to heat your home if it is not powerful enough for a particular area. This also takes into account the winter temperatures of the region where the heated building is located, the number of windows and doors in it, the level of insulation of walls and floors, ceiling height and many other conditions.

For example, the higher the ceiling, the larger the volume of air will have to be heated, and the larger the glass area, the faster the heat will leave the house, which means you will have to choose a stove with increased power. Typically, for buildings with non-standard glazing and other parameters that do not fall under the average statistical level, calculations must be made by a specialist individually, based on the specific characteristics of the house.

But in general, you can rely on average values. Thus, for well-insulated houses with conventional glazing, with an area of 50 to 100 m², with a ceiling height of 2.5 to 2.7 m, the following thermal power standards per unit area (Wsp) are acceptable:

This value can be found out more accurately in your local construction organization. And for those who like to do their own calculations, we can recommend a more detailed and fairly accurate algorithm.

How to accurately calculate the required thermal power?

Each room is unique in its own way, and heating two seemingly equal rooms may require different amounts of thermal energy. Power calculation method heating equipment set out in a special publication on our portal dedicated to.

Having data for a specific region and the size of the heated area (S), the furnace power for it is calculated using the formula:

Wsum = S (m²) × Wsp (kW/m²)

For example, we can consider the power of the furnace for brick house, located in the central part of Russia and having an area 75 m².

Wsum = 75 × 0.14 = 10.5 kW

Typically, stove developers immediately indicate the thermal power of their designs. True, other units of measurement are often found - kilocalories per hour or megajoules. It’s not scary - they can be easily converted into watts and kilowatts:

In our case, for example, the calculated power in kilocalories will be equal to:

10500 × 0.86 = 9030 kcal/hour

Now you can calculate the profitability future furnace, which largely depends on the quality and type of wood used as fuel. At the same time, we must not forget that usually brick wood stoves do not have high efficiency. It is usually estimated at around 70%. If there is data for a specific oven model, then a specific value is substituted.

Each type of solid fuel has its own calorific value– the amount of thermal energy that is released when burning 1 kilogram. It is clear that only bulk fuels - coal or - are usually measured in kilograms and tons, and firewood is usually measured in storage cubic meters. This indicator therefore depends on specific gravity one type of wood or another. Indicators of the energy potential (based on mass and storage volume) of the main types of solid fuel are shown in the table.

Wood type	Average calorific value of dry firewood by mass, Qm (kW/kg)	Average calorific value of dry firewood by storage volume, Qv (kW/m³) (for coal and briquettes – kW/t)	The same applies to damp wood (which has not undergone at least a one-year drying cycle)
Firewood:
Beech	4.2	2200	1930
Oak	4.2	2100	1850
Ash	4.2	2100	1850
Rowan	4.2	2100	1850
Birch	4.3	1900	1670
Elm	4.1	1900	1670
Maple	4.1	1900	1670
Aspen	4.1	1750	1400
Alder	4.1	1500	1300
Willow (willow)	4.1	1400	1230
Poplar	4.1	1400	1230
Pine	4.4	1700	1500
Larch	4.4	1700	1500
Fir	4.4	1600	1400
Spruce	4.3	1400	1200
Coal and briquettes:
Anthracite	8.1	8100	-
Charcoal	8.6	8600	-
Coal	6.2	6200	-
Brown coal	4.2	4200	-
Fuel briquettes	5.6	5600	-
Peat briquettes	3.4	3400	-

The calorific value of undried firewood is shown for contrast - how much generated power is lost. Naturally, you should still rely on firewood that has gone through the necessary drying cycle.

Preparing firewood is a serious matter!

In order for the stove to live up to its purpose and serve as long as possible, it should be “fed” with the right fuel. About their main characteristics, rules of preparation, drying and storage - in a special publication on our portal.

The average daily weight consumption of fuel to ensure the necessary heat transfer is determined by the formula:

V(kg)= (Wsum /Qm) × 24 hours

To calculate volume - everything is the same, but instead of calorific value by mass Qm value is substituted Qv.

Knowing the daily consumption, it is easy to determine the weekly, monthly and even for the entire expected heating period - in order to have an idea of the upcoming costs of purchasing or procuring the required amount of firewood.

To facilitate independent calculations, below is a convenient calculator, which already contains the necessary ratios. The calculation is carried out for dried wood.

Brick kilns, even the smallest ones have many advantages in front of metal heating devices.

Iron stoves heat up very quickly, but also cool quickly without warming the air. Mini brick oven gives off heat for a long time And Maintains a comfortable temperature for several hours.

This heating structure can be made independently, without the help of a professional stove maker.

Schemes of brick mini-ovens

Small ovens take small area, dimensions of their bases hesitate from 50 to 70 centimeters in width and up to 65–100 cm in length. Height heating plant is from 1.5 to 2.3 meters. A cooking floor, an oven, and a water heating tank are built into the oven. Stove makers have also developed devices intended only for heating a home.

Small heating structure

This is the simplest heating structure. We will analyze the model in the following sizes:

width grounds - 51 cm;
length base (depth) - 89 cm;
height — 238 cm.

The mini-stove is installed in the middle of the kitchen or against the wall. Optimal heating area - 20-35 meters. They build around the furnace interior partitions, which allows you to heat both the kitchen and the adjacent room.

Inside the device are:

combustion chamber;
blower;
smoke channels leading into the chimney.

Furnace door mini ovens ( cast iron or glass) is selected depending on the aesthetic preferences of the home owners. A door made of heat-resistant glass, through which you can see how the wood is burning, gives the structure a resemblance to a fireplace. In the middle and upper part stoves are installed two smoke valves. There is one door for cleaning the channels. To build this model of the device you will need:

260 pieces bricks ceramic;
130 pieces of fireclay bricks;
grate (40x23 cm);
combustion chamber (30x20 cm) And blower (20x14 cm) doors;
2 doors for cleaning holes ( 20x40 cm);
metal pre-furnace sheet (50x70 cm);
two sheets roofing felt 60x100 mm in size;
sand and clay(or ready-made clay-sand mixture for masonry), clay-fireclay mixture.

Reference. Masonry mortar increases the volume of the device by the thickness of the joints.

Foundation and top part The mini-oven is lined with ceramic bricks on a clay-sand mortar. Firebox put from fireclay bricks for clay-fireclay mixture.

On long side base fits three and a half bricks, on short - 2 standard bricks 25 cm long. In height the masonry consists of 35 rows.

Small heating and cooking stove

This is a mini-oven model for heating and cooking - a convenient and very compact structure. Optimal heated room area at sub-zero temperatures - 20—25 square meters .

The device has the following dimensions:

length base (depth) - 64 cm;
width grounds - 51 cm;
height — 215 cm.

The structure is being erected in the kitchen. The device includes:

blower;
combustion chamber;
smoke channels leading into the chimney;
cooking floor;
niche for oven.

Cooking floor made of cast iron has a hole closed with a disk and a circle. Solid flooring is also available for sale. IN niche for oven chamber have a metal oven or hot water tank with a tap. If the niche is left free, it is used for drying things. For the construction of a stove will be needed:

222 pieces ceramic bricks;
grate (40x25 cm);
door for the firebox ( 20x20 cm);
door for the blower ( 14x14 cm);
cooking flooring (35x38 cm);
metal oven or hot water tank;
iron pre-furnace sheet (50x70 cm);
two doors for cleaning holes ( 20x14 cm);
two valves;
piece flat slate ;
steel corner;
clay, sand or ready clay-sand mixture for masonry.

Before starting masonry, preparatory work is carried out. These include next steps:

choice project;
selection and purchase materials;
purchase of metal stove parts;
Preparation tool, containers for solution;
Preparation places for building a stove;
construction mini ovens.

Project selection

On the Internet and in textbooks on furnace business there are serial diagrams and drawings of a dozen mini-ovens.

The choice is great, but if the home craftsman has no experience at all, it is worth consulting with local professionals or with people who have successfully built similar stoves. When choosing a device that you plan to build yourself, several factors are taken into account:

square heated room;
quantity heated rooms;
temperature air in winter;
frequency of use heating structure;
appointment mini ovens;
experience furnace construction and repair;
material expenses.

Photo 1. Before starting construction, it is very useful to model the appearance, dimensions and order of the future stove.

If planned Cook, the preferred option would be one with a hob and an oven. Need in hot water in winter and in the off-season, the water heating tank will be closed in a niche. In it, by removing the removable tank, you can dry shoes and other things. If there is always electricity in the house or gas stove, choose the option of an oven without a cooking floor and a niche for the oven.

For regions where winter temperatures drop below 20 degrees and stays at this level for weeks, it will do large oven with heat shields. Mini stove Not recommended drown continuously more than two hours in a row.

For many people it matters design designs. It can be tiled or laid with bricks with a relief surface.

Materials

For the chosen mini-oven project you will need high-quality bricks. Should choose smooth brick 1st grade, uniform coloring, without chips or cracks.

For laying bricks home handyman without experience it is better to choose ready mixture V hardware store. It is diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions.

If the master creates a solution from individual ingredients, you should purchase sand and clay. The ratio of materials is determined experimentally. The solution is scooped with a spatula and its working surface is tilted by 45-50 degrees. Masonry mass normal composition does not fall in clumps from the spatula and does not flow from it.

Tools

To work, you will need all the stove maker’s tools and a table on which you can stand when laying the top rows. Add to list tools include:

spatulas: wide and narrow:
Master OK;
jointing to form beautiful seams;
trowel;
hammer a stove-maker with a flat back and a pick;
mallet;
level long construction;
plumb line building;
wooden beam for the frame;
threads, fishing line, chalk for marking the base;
Bulgarian with a set of discs for cutting and grinding;
rule aluminum.

Important! The temperature in the room when laying the stove and drying it should be positive (from plus 5 degrees).

To prepare the solution you need big tank. To mix the paste you need wooden stirrer(oar) and construction mixer.

Preparing the area for the oven

Before laying, mini-ovens are prepared in advance foundation. This is necessary because even the smallest device with brick pipe weighs from 500 kg and more.

Such pressure on the floor boards will lead to deformation of the floor and stove walls. This can cause a fire on the roof and in the house.

There are several options for constructing foundations. Construction concrete base for mini oven includes next steps:

pit excavation depth 50-70 cm;
compaction of soil in the pit;
laying a layer of crushed stone in the pit ( 20-25 cm);
laying sand in a pit ( layer 15-20 cm);
compaction of sand and crushed stone;
waterproofing the pit with roofing felt: joints are sealed with tar and bitumen mastic;
installation steel reinforcement with cell diameter no more than 8-10 cm;
pouring concrete and compacting it with a vibrating drill;
laying two layers of roofing material on dried concrete for additional waterproofing.

Important! The stove is erected on a foundation that protrudes beyond its perimeter by 10-20 cm. From the firebox side it is recommended leave 50-70 cm foundation in order to mount a pre-furnace platform on it.

Order of masonry

Ceramic bricks are laid using clay-sand mortar on a prepared foundation:

1st and 2nd rows. Solid masonry.

Photo 2. Layout diagram of the first rows for a small heating and cooking stove. Next comes the chimney pipe.

3rd row. Lay out the chamber for the blower. Install (on wire or metal strips) the blower door.
4 row. The laying of the blower and the strengthening of its door continues. A ledge for the grate is laid out.
5 row. A grate is placed loosely on the ledges, without mortar. They leave it around gaps are 5-7 mm.
6th row. A combustion door is installed in the furnace portal. It is secured by laying steel wire in the seams or using steel strips. The planks are also laid in the seams using mortar.
Rows 7-11. Laying the firebox, final fastening of the door by laying wire (steel plates) in the seams on the mortar.

Photo 3. Installation and fastening of doors for firebox and cleaning. Using a plumb line, the accuracy of the tub is monitored.

11a. Upon completion 11 rows lay a metal strip (or corner) on which the cooking floor will rest. After this, the cooking floor is laid.
Rows 12-15. Walls are erected around the cooking floor (cooking chamber), and a chimney leading from the firebox is laid out.
15a. In order to have a roof made of non-combustible material above the cooking chamber, a sheet of flat slate is placed on it.
16th row. Vault cooking chamber cover with solid masonry and continue to lay out the chimney.
17th row. Installation of a chimney cleaning door (on wire or steel strips).
18 row. Securing the door.
Rows 19-22. Masonry according to the chosen pattern.
23 row. Laying out a niche for the oven.
24 row. Laying the walls of the oven, installing the oven. Strips of asbestos cardboard are placed around the perimeter of the chamber at the bottom. The oven is wrapped with asbestos rope (for greater contact with brickwork and heat accumulation) and are finally installed in a niche.
Rows 24-27. Brickwork is built around the oven.
28 row. Installing a second door to clean the smoke duct.
29 row. Installing a damper above the smoke duct.
Row 30 Masonry according to the chosen pattern.
31 row. Installing a second damper above the smoke duct.
32 row. Completion of masonry.

Besides, 32 row is the basis for the construction chimney . It can be brick or metal.

Photo 4. An example of a finished brick mini-stove with decorative finishing. The design is not intended for cooking, but will heat the house well.

Problems when building a mini-oven with your own hands

Amateur stove makers, due to inexperience, commit errors which then lead to problems. Let's look at the most common cases:

Laying stoves with deviation from the project. As a result, there is no normal draft in the smoke ducts, and the walls heat up unevenly. The solution to the problem will be disassembly of the furnace and laying according to proven schemes.
Laying stoves by eye, without using a level, frame, plumb lines, rules. The device warps, the center of gravity shifts, and during operation the device collapses faster.

No one country house cannot do without a stove, as it will both feed and warm. Today, gas mains have been installed in many villages, and it would seem possible to switch to more convenient way heating. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to abandon brick stoves, which provide a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick stove in the house.

To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the layout and masonry technology. Before you start studying a specific option, you should consider several models, since there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will take up less space in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.

There are a lot of models of brick stoves. Experienced stove makers can make their own changes to ready-made projects, since they already know by heart where and how the internal channels through which smoke is removed should pass. Thanks to the correct arrangement of them in the design of the furnace, it will heat up evenly and release most heat into the room. It is better for novice craftsmen to strictly follow the already drawn up order schemes, without deviating a single step from them, since even one incorrectly placed brick can ruin all this rather labor-intensive work.

Types of brick kilns

Based on their functionality, stoves are divided into three main types - cooking, heating and. Choosing a suitable design, Firstly you need to decide what exactly will be required of her.

The hob has a cast iron panel for cooking food and heating water. Typically, such stoves are small in size and are popular for installation in small private homes and in the country. Of course, a cooking stove can, in addition to cooking food, also warm a small room.

The heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive structure

A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or country house with large area, and its design sometimes includes a bed, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.

Always compact. It does not include hob and serves only for heating the premises. Such a structure can warm two rooms if it is placed between them, built into the wall.

Choosing the optimal location for the furnace

Having chosen the desired stove model, you need to look for it appropriate place. The structure can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove structure and the desires of the home owner.

Stove in the middle large room, can divide it into two different zones, for example, a kitchen and a dining room or living room. The hob will go into the kitchen, and a flat wall with well-made masonry will become designer decoration living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to add a wall to the stove and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition should be insulated from the stove with non-combustible material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
It is not advisable to build a stove near external wall, since there it will quickly cool down.
When installing a stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
The proposed construction site must be carefully measured and be sure to take into account that the foundation should be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the building so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
To make it easier to work, you need to find an ordering diagram for the selected model.

Having decided on the model and installation location, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.

Tools, building materials for laying a brick stove

Depending on the size of the furnace, it requires different amounts of materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the tools required for masonry are the same.

Tools

Of the tools and equipment for the construction of any furnace you will need:

“Goat” is a scaffold that will make it easier to work at height when the stove is raised higher human size. They are convenient because the stove master can not only climb onto them, but also place a container with a solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.

“Goats” will be needed when laying the top rows

Another version of the stand, more compact, is the “tragus”. You need to have two such devices, because if you place them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick boards on top, you will get the same platform. Can also be used separately, as stairs.

You can get by with a couple of more compact trestles, making temporary plank flooring on them

The following set of tools will need to be prepared:

1. A pick will be needed to separate and trim the brick.

2. A broom made from sponge, for removing dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and mopping inside the masonry.

3. Corner - will help bring the corners inside and outside the oven exactly 90 degrees.

4. A plumb line is needed to check the verticality of the walls.

5. A kiln hammer is also required to separate bricks into pieces and chip off small protrusions of hardened mortar.

6. Pliers will be needed for biting, bending and straightening the wire.

7. A rubber hammer is necessary for tapping bricks in masonry if it is difficult for them to fit.

8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as dismantling old masonry.

9. Trowel (trowel) of different sizes - for applying mortar and removing excess.

10. The rule will be necessary to level the surface of the foundation.

11. A lead scriber is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to decorate the stove with tiles.

12. The knocker is a piece of pipe, which is also used for cutting tiles; instead of a hammer, it is used to hit a knife.

13. Wooden spatula - for mixing and grinding the solution.

14. Metal scriber rod for marking.

15. A level is needed to check the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls.

16. A rasp is used to remove sagging and grind in lumps.

17. Jointing is necessary for neatness of the seams if the stove will not be plastered or finished with decorative tiles.

18. Container for mixing the solution.

19. A sieve that will help make the masonry mortar thin.

Construction materials

The amount of materials will depend on the selected furnace, and their list is almost always the same. For purely heating type no hob, oven cabinet, or water tank is required. But usually standard set cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:

1. Blower door.

2. Door for fireboxes

3. Cleaning doors ovens

4. Chimney damper.

5. A burner made of several rings.

6. Hob.

7. Grate.

Other metal elements you may need:

1. Oven.

2. Tank for water.

3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.

4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.

5. Steel wire.

Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:

1. Red hardened brick.

2. Fireclay brick.

3. Ingredients for clay mortar or ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.

4. For the foundation you will need cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing felt for waterproofing.

5. Heat-resistant material will also be needed for protective finish walls of the house and metal sheet or ceramic tiles for the floor.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Preparing a site for the construction of a stove

Usually the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with the general foundation of the house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is erected in a finished building.

Further actions depend on what kind of floor is installed in the room.

If the foundation is concrete and completely poured, according to the principle of a slab, and the structure of the stove is not designed to be too massive, then you can begin to lay the stove directly on the concrete floor, having first laid a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
If the foundation is strip or the floor is wooden, then you will have to build the foundation from scratch.

Foundation

The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place for the stove is marked on the floor, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.

A pit is dug in the exposed soil, 400-500 mm deep.
At the bottom of the pit, a “cushion” of 100 mm is made of sand, and then of the same thickness - from crushed stone, the layers are well compacted.
Next, along the perimeter of the pit, formwork is installed for pouring concrete - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
The lower layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed in an even layer over the entire area, and left to harden.
After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour the top layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with fully prepared concrete mortar and leveled using the rule, and the top formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it must be moistened with water starting from the second day, which will improve the uniformity of ripening. cement mortar and will not allow cracks to form.

A fully finished foundation (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) is covered with roofing felt to create a layer of waterproofing. Then markings are made on this surface - the shape of the stove base is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.

Dry masonry

Experienced craftsmen recommend that a novice stove maker take his time laying bricks on the mortar so as not to make mistakes. Especially if this work is being carried out for the first time, it is best to dry out the entire furnace structure.
By carrying out this process carefully, with a constant eye on the existing diagram, you can understand the internal structure of the chimney channels and the structure of the firebox and vent.
For dry masonry, you need to prepare auxiliary slats with a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - during the main masonry it will be filled with mortar, forming seams.
After the entire stove model up to the chimney pipe has been laid out, it is disassembled again, while the bricks of each row can be stacked separately, if there is enough space in the room for this, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
It should immediately be noted that during the final laying, it is also better to first lay out each row dry again, for control, and then immediately fix it with mortar.
In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on the mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber hammer. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
Having laid two or three rows until the solution has set, the seams are decorated with jointing. If suddenly the solution is not wet enough, you can sprinkle it with a little water from a spray bottle.
We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.

Knowing these nuances, you can proceed directly to the masonry.

The presented video shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove, which is suitable even for very small large room. True, there are no other additional functions included in it:

Video: heating stove for small spaces

Compact "Swedish"

Convenient, versatile and fairly compact Swedish oven

Can be called the most accurate and compact oven, suitable for small rooms. This stove can be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has a high body with smoke exhaust channels located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, the design also includes a hob.

The first picture shows a “Swede”, which has a wider pediment than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows there is a drying niche above the stove. This version of the stove is twice as wide as the second model.

This is also a “Swedish”, but of a slightly different design

The ordering diagram shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, there is a niche above the hob, a slightly different location of the pipe - on the other side of the structure, and consistent roundness of the corners. When laid in this order, the stove will look something like this.

The structure is laid out based on the ordering diagram:

Layout diagram for laying a compact heating and cooking "Swedish"

Although this diagram shows that they begin to lay out the blower chamber from the first row, after all It’s worth laying it out in a continuous plane and only from the second row can you start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the diagram, and the first continuous row can be called “zero”.

So, the formation of the blower chamber begins from the first row.
A blower door is installed on the second row. The door is secured with wire and temporarily supported with bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.

From the fourth row, two chambers for cleaning begin to be removed and doors are also installed on them.
A grate is laid on the fifth row.

The firebox door is also secured with wire to the sixth row, and is also temporarily supported by bricks mounted on the grate, and Also, if necessary, a support is also placed on the front side of the door.

On the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical smoke exhaust channels is laid.
On the ninth row, the firebox door is covered with a brick, the wire of which is secured and tucked into the seams between the rows.
On the eleventh row, a hob is placed on the left opening, and strips of asbestos are placed under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed by a steel angle.
From the twelfth to the sixteenth row the cooking chamber is displayed.
On the seventeenth row, metal strips are laid, and its upper edge is formed with a corner.
The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three smoke exhaust channels.
On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and a cleaning chamber and a drying niche begin to form.
At 22- ohm row, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely blocked, and at its end a hole is left that will continue the smoke exhaust channel.
On 24- ohm a row of metal strips cover the drying niche.
At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
At 28- ohm The entire chamber is completely blocked.
At 30- ohm In a row, two valves are installed on the smoke exhaust channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the mortar, and then the valve is inserted into it.

From 31st to 35th th a row is laid out a segment.
From the 35th to the 38th, the construction of the pipe fluff begins.
Next comes the laying of the pipe, which already has your own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, you just need to very carefully monitor the evenness and internal cleanliness (from solution residues) of the smoke exhaust channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
On the third row, another door is placed on the cleaning chamber.
At 27- ohm Another chimney valve is installed in a row.
At 29- ohm they expand the pipe by one row, and by 30- ohm it is brought into its initial form.
Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is discharged through the roof.

When a chimney passes through the attic floor, it must be insulated from it with flammable materials - this could be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, poured into a box located around the entire perimeter of the pipe.

The hole in the roof through which the pipe passes must be closed after construction with waterproofing material, which is applied to both the pipe and the roof.

Installation of other oven elements

As mentioned above, there may be other elements built into the stove, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.

Oven

If the design includes an oven, it is most often installed on the same level as the firebox or hob. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.

Metal corners are first installed in the place where it will be installed - they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

Next, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet last longer.

Video: technology for laying an efficient stove with an oven

Prices for masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Hot water tank

The water heating tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the structure of the furnace, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the smoke exhaust duct, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, you need to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is advisable to make the water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come out of it, unsuitable for water procedures.

Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it at the same level as the hob, above the firebox, when it will only heat up from below. In this case, it is best to place a cast iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this installation option is not embedded in the walls of the oven.

The inconvenience of such an installation is that there is less space left for the hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.

When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think through everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a building design with an ordering scheme.

It should be noted that laying a stove is a real art, and not even every experienced craftsman always succeeds perfectly. Therefore, if you do not have any skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help you do everything correctly.

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In past centuries, the only means of heating for households was a stove, and stove specialists lived in good prosperity and enjoyed great respect among people. Today, stoves have not gone into oblivion and are still very popular in homes, baths and saunas.

With the development of the Internet, anyone can become a stove maker. To do this, you just need to set a goal, acquire necessary materials and find necessary tools. You can fold the oven yourself.

Building a brick stove is not the easiest thing. To begin with, careful preparation of materials, tools, and plans is necessary. But first of all, you need to decide which of the many types of stoves you want to make.

Heating stoves. As the name implies, their main task is to heat the room. Furnaces of this type are extremely simple, have a simple design and do not take long to construct.
Combined ovens. More universal type ovens than the first. They are somewhat more difficult to construct, but have not only the function of heating the room. You can cook food on such stoves. In some versions, even ovens are built into them.
Stoves and fireplaces. The ideal type of stove for a private home or cottage. Possessing unrivaled appearance

, they do a good job of heating your building. A well-built and well-finished fireplace will become the interior highlight of your home.

Some masters rank stoves not by their main function, but by the shape of the unit: square, rectangular, round, etc.

Of course, almost any homeowner can make a stove with their own hands. Numerous diagrams and guides will help you do this efficiently and with minimal time. The oven can be of any size, shape and purpose. However, it should be remembered that the main condition for its successful construction will be fire safety.

The main advantages of a brick oven With the widespread development of private households, conventional brick kilns are increasingly being used. They are often preferred to modern heating devices: gas and other boilers. Not to mention metal stoves.

Among the main positive features of brick kilns are: Long-term heat conservation.
Economical.
As mentioned earlier, the stove stays warm longer, which means you heat it less often and waste less fuel. Environmentally friendly. The oven consists of
natural materials
and is heated primarily with wood. Safety. The outer surfaces of the furnace are not subjected to strong heating. The brickwork gradually takes excess heat from the firebox and transfers it to the surrounding space. This means that the thermal radiation will be softer than from an iron “potbelly stove”. Breath. During combustion, the stove releases moisture from the brick, which softens the air. When cooling, the masonry is moistened again. Air humidity is always at the level of 40-60 percent, which is useful for

respiratory system

person. Disadvantages of a brick kiln The main disadvantage of a brick oven is considered

for a long time

warming up a cold room. Since this structure is much more massive than any metal convector, it will take many times longer to heat up. Only after this the oven will begin to give off heat.

Another disadvantage is the potential for carbon monoxide poisoning if used incorrectly.

Where is the best place to install a stove in the house?

Before starting work, you need to decide where in your house it will be located. For example, if you place a heating structure in the middle of a large room, it will give off much more heat.

If you build a stove near the wall, and this is what most people do, then cold air will flow near the floor near it. Some people prefer to place the stove between several rooms, so that the plane of the stove falls on the dining room, living room and bedroom. However, only relatively small rooms can be heated in this way.

It is necessary to provide in advance for the placement of the combustion door and other parts of the stove. During operation, you must freely use all components of the stove. Most often, the door is placed in uncrowded rooms, for example, in the kitchen or in the hallway.

What materials are used for laying a brick oven?

Preparing for the construction of a furnace is a troublesome, but enjoyable undertaking. You will need to decide what material you will use to build the oven, what solution to use, what doors and other elements to purchase.
First you need to decide which brick will be used. There are several types of it:
Fireproof - well suited for the construction of furnaces. Most often they are used to lay the firebox of brick stoves and fireplaces. They can be refractory, fireclay and others.

IMPORTANT! When choosing the type of brick, avoid hollow and hollow types. They are not strong enough.

The next thing you need to decide on the solution. Most often, clay is used for these purposes. For ceramic bricks - red, for refractory bricks - special fireclay clay. You can purchase ready-made mixtures at construction stores and dilute them according to the instructions.

Some kiln craftsmen still prepare masonry mortars with their own hands. To do this they mix river sand fractions of one to one and a half millimeters, clay and water. The proportion of sand and clay is 2.5 to 1.

Additional accessories include grate bars (special grates, which in the future will be located between the firebox and the ash pit); doors for the firebox and vent, soot cleaners, valves and dampers.

To build your stove you will need the following tools:

plumb line;
measuring tape;
trowel;
spatulas of different sizes;
metaba;
wire;
level;
metal pieces;
containers for solutions.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, it is necessary to decide where the heating structure will be located. The choice of location determines its configuration and size.

When planning, you should remember that the chimney should not be located near the rafters - closer than 15 centimeters. Otherwise, trouble may arise.

An important element of any furnace is its foundation. It should be larger in area than the oven itself. The base must also be provided with preliminary waterproofing.

Making the foundation for the stove

The foundation can be made from any brick; some stove makers use crushed stone to make it.

The most durable stove will be the one whose foundation was laid along with the house in which it is located. It is worth noting that both foundations are laid separately from each other. Otherwise, settlement of the building walls will lead to a violation of the geometry heating device, will damage its integrity.

If the stove is built in an already finished house, then several difficulties will have to be overcome. If wooden floors are installed indoors, they will be dismantled at the construction site. The possible offset from the external contours of the future furnace is 15 centimeters.

A foundation pit is being dug. Its depth depends on climatic conditions and the level of soil freezing. For the middle latitudes of Russia, the optimal depth will be 0.8 meters. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand 15 centimeters high. A 15-centimeter layer of crushed stone is poured on top. Both layers must be compacted thoroughly.
The next step is to stick wooden stakes into the corners of the future stove, and attach the lathing to them. It turns out to be a kind of formwork for the foundation. Its wall joints must be covered with polyethylene so that cement does not leak into the cracks.
Let's move on to pouring the foundation. Concrete mortar is mixed from M-400 cement, sand and crushed stone. It is important not to overdo it with water, due to consistency liquid concrete should have average fluidity. Otherwise, the strength of the foundation will be less.
The mixture is poured into the formwork, compacted and the surface is leveled using the rule.

IMPORTANT! The upper edge of the stove base should be located 15-20 centimeters below floor level.

A few hours after the initial setting, the formwork is wrapped in film. You need to wait until it dries completely concrete mortar, it takes several weeks.

How to fold a simple small stove

This compact and easy-to-build stove is perfect for heating a small country house, cottage or garage. Its design is extremely simple and does not have gas circulation, the level of heat transfer is not very high. It will heat a room of a maximum of 16 square meters.

For such a furnace there is no need for a powerful foundation. You just need to lay crushed stone to a depth of 15-20 centimeters and fill it with concrete.

The oven dimensions will be 2 by 2.5 bricks, which is approximately 51 by 64 centimeters. Due to the absence of a blower chamber, it is necessary to drill holes in the door for the firebox.

Construction Features:

Setting up such a stove is not difficult. Make sure the bricks are arranged so that the brick on top covers the seam between the two bricks below it.
On row No. 8 the firebox begins to narrow. For this, use ¾ of a brick. And as a result, the exit from the combustion chamber has an area of one brick.
The ninth level is placed in the same way as the seventh. That is, a whole brick is used.
The tenth tier will be specific. The bricks on it are not placed flat, but on an edge, strictly along the contour of the recess on the row below.
On top of the tenth tier, bricks are again laid traditionally - flat. To lay it out you will need two solid bricks and four ¾ bricks. Thanks to this arrangement, you will narrow the smoke channel.
Next, the bricks are again placed on edge, and the smoke channel is divided in half. In cross-section, the masonry of this level will resemble a figure eight on a calculator. On the next tier the bricks are flat again. Alternating the laying method in this way, lay out five rows.
On the next four rows, the bricks are placed flat.
In the last two rows, the chimney is narrowed so that its cross-section is exactly half the size of a brick (12 by 12 centimeters).
A smoke damper is installed and a steel chimney pipe is attached to it.

How to fold an oven with a hob

You can also build a stove equipped with a hob with your own hands. The simplest option will have dimensions of 78 by 53 centimeters. That is, it is 2 bricks wide and 3 bricks long. Despite its small dimensions, such a unit can accommodate one burner.

The base of such a stove should be 10 centimeters larger than its dimensions. And the foundation is made in such a way that the first row of bricks comes from the floor level.

If there is an underground space under the house that is more than half a meter high, then there is no need to dig a foundation for the stove. You can make formwork on the ground and lay two layers of roofing material on the bottom (this will protect the structure from moisture). Next, concrete is poured and the foundation is given at least a week to dry. After which you can begin installation.

Construction Features:

The starting row is installed on a clay solution, 5 millimeters thick. Having leveled it, proceed to the second. It is necessary to leave space on it for the blower door.
Before installation, a wire is screwed to the door, the ends of which are placed in the seams between the bricks. This will provide better hold.
Since metal expands when heated, it is necessary to leave a gap between the edges of the masonry and the door. The frame of the door itself is wrapped with asbestos cord before installation.
The third row is laid in such a way that the bricks overlap the seams of the previous tier. At the same time, the installation of grates takes place.
Row number four differs from the previous one, since the walls of the firebox are formed on it. The bricks on it are laid on edge, and it is important to observe the “bandaging” of the seams.
Behind the combustion chamber there is a smoke circulation. In order to be able to remove ash from it in the future, the brick is placed in the back without mortar.
In the chimney, two stands are made from fragments of bricks so that the internal partition rests on them.
The stones of row No. 5 are placed flat; do not forget to leave room for the door to the firebox.
When laying smoke channels, be sure to clean their insides from protruding clay with a wet rag. Otherwise, the flow of smoke will be disrupted.
On the eighth tier it is necessary to reposition the door into the combustion chamber. Don't forget to place the wire from it into the seams. On the same tier it is recommended to install a “smoke tooth”. This is a brick with a beveled end, thanks to which it enhances heat transfer and slows down the escape of smoke into the street through the chimney.
When laying the ninth row, it is necessary to install an asbestos cord covered in a clay solution. It will seal the joint between the cast iron slab and the brickwork.
On the tenth row, a cast iron stove with a burner is placed on top of the firebox.
Row No. 11 is notable for the fact that a smoke valve is installed in the pipe, the contour of which is also sealed with asbestos cord and clay.
On the last two rows of brickwork, the walls of the chimney are formed. The pipe is then placed there.

Upon completion of construction, the stove must be dried. To do this, open all the doors and latches in it, and then leave it for a week. Next, a test fire is carried out. Use a small amount of wood chips and brushwood.

Order or diagram of the construction of your stove

In the construction of furnaces everything is exactly the same as in any other construction work. You need to start by preparing a drawing. In this case, it is called “ordering” and is a schematic representation of each row of brickwork with a top view.

Roughly speaking, if your stove from the base to the end of the chimney consists of 20 rows of bricks, then before installation work you need to make yourself 20 diagrams. Without order, the successful construction of a furnace is almost hopeless.

You can find hundreds of different drawings on the Internet and specialized literature. You can make them yourself - to suit the size of your home and your needs.

To do this, you should know that each oven consists of the following parts:

The firebox is a furnace chamber into which fuel is placed. The combustion process also takes place in it. It is separated from the ash pit by grates. It has a direct connection to the internal channels of the stove, through which smoke is directed from it to the street.
The ash chamber is the cavity of the stove through which the oxygen necessary for burning wood is supplied to the firebox. Burnt fuel residues also get into it through the seals.
Devices for cooking and heating water are built in optionally, depending on the purpose of the stove device.
Cleaning chambers are cavities necessary for collecting and removing soot.

Cladding a metal stove with bricks

Metal stoves, unlike stone ones, are not as heavy and are quite easy to install. Their disadvantage is that they overheat during the heating process and quickly release heat to the surrounding room. They also cool down quickly.

Moreover, according to scientists, the thermal radiation emanating from them does not affect humans as favorably as the soft heat emanating from their brick counterparts. Moreover, you can’t lie on such a stove and you can’t dry your laundry.

The practice of cladding is popular in Russia metal furnaces brickwork. Of course, the properties of such a heating structure will not be as outstanding as those of a full-fledged stone stove. True, there will be fewer negative effects in the form of overheating and radiation.

IMPORTANT! Most often, iron stoves are lined in a bathhouse. This allows you to save both time and money.

Construction Features:

The same brick and mortar is suitable for cladding iron stoves as for the construction of their “ceramic” counterparts.
The construction of the foundation is optional, and depends on the dimensions and weight of the future furnace. If the floor is concrete, 1-2 continuous rows of bricks are laid on it. Allow to dry.
If you want to build a stove up to the ceiling, you need to dig a pit and pour the foundation.
The site for the construction should be 8-10 centimeters around the perimeter larger than the building below.
4 beacon bars are placed at the corners of the base; they will be your marks when laying bricks.
The brick “cover” around the iron stove should be 10-12 centimeters larger than it. There should be free space between them.
After completing the lining, the structure should dry well without extraneous heating.

Conclusion

A home brick oven is an effective and environmentally friendly tool for heating your home and cooking. In the 21st century, they have not lost their relevance and continue to serve millions of homeowners faithfully. It is worth remembering that any stove will work well only in a well-insulated house. Otherwise all thermal energy will go through the cracks into the street.

Besides useful properties, the stove is also a unique interior solution. It will give you not only warmth, but also an indescribable feeling of comfort and aesthetic pleasure.

It’s not difficult to build a brick stove that is always ready to warm any home. You just need to learn some of the intricacies of building brick stoves and use the knowledge gained correctly.

What kind of brick oven can you install in your home and where is the best place to do it?

Based on functionality, all stoves are usually divided into several types. Cookers have a special cast iron panel on which you can heat water and cook food. Such stoves are most often installed in dachas and small private houses where people do not live in winter. In principle, a cooking stove is capable of heating a small area, but its main task is not this, but cooking.

Heating units are intended exclusively for heating the home. They do not cook on them, since they do not have a cooking panel, which is why they usually have very compact sizes. Cooking and heating stoves are a combination of the first two types of brick stoves, which makes it possible to heat a large area and cook any food. Often such devices are equipped not only with a cast-iron panel, but also with a separate niche where you can dry fruits and vegetables, and a built-in oven.

Regardless of the type, any stove must be as fireproof as possible, not smoke during kindling and burning, and also create comfortable conditions stay in the house. To achieve this, you need to choose the right place in the home where you want to put the stove, guided by the following recommendations:

It is impossible to build a heating device near the external wall of a residential building due to the fact that it will begin to cool down very quickly due to exposure to cold air from outside.
Place the stove in the middle of the room or next to the inner wall. It can also be built built into the wall. If the device is placed in the center of the room (this is done when the area of the home is large enough), it divides it into several functional parts– living room and kitchen, bedroom and dining room and so on. For small buildings, a stove built into the wall or mounted directly under it is more suitable.
To simplify the masonry, it is advisable to find a correctly drawn up ordering diagram for a specific type of stove.
If the stove is built between two rooms, it must be separated from the wall surfaces with materials with a high heat resistance.

Note that large heating devices (the number of bricks is more than 500) and with their own chimney should be installed in the house on separate foundation. Moreover, it should not have a (mechanical) connection with the foundation of the building (this requirement must also be observed when the house and stove are being built together).

Making a foundation and choosing a brick to build a stove

If a relatively small stove is being built in an already operating house with a slab concrete foundation, it is allowed to mount it directly on the existing foundation. You only need to lay roofing felt on the concrete floor.

When the flooring of a building is made of wood or the house is on a strip foundation, it will be necessary to prepare a separate foundation for the heating device.

You can do it yourself using this scheme:

We mark a place on the floor for the future brick stove.
Remove the marked part flooring and dig a pit in the ground underneath it (its depth should be about half a meter).
At the bottom of the pit we place a layer of sand (about 10 cm) and on top - crushed stone (the thickness is the same), compact the resulting “pillow”.
We place a plank along the perimeter of the pit (it is raised about 11 cm above the level of the main floor covering).
We fill half of the hole under the stove foundation with a mixture of sand, crushed stone and cement, and wait for it to harden.
We fill the second half of the pit with a solution (after the previous composition in the pit has firmly set), which it is advisable to make more “thin” (add a little more water to it).

After this, it is necessary to carefully level the foundation using the rule and wait about a month until it hardens firmly. And at this time, you can choose and purchase bricks, remembering that the durability of the stove depends on its quality.

For masonry, fireproof, ceramic, fireclay and special oven bricks are used, as well as hand-molded products. All these materials should be selected according to their markings, which indicate their strength. A brick oven in a house should be constructed from special products of grades M150–M200, having:

uniform color;
straight edges with no chips or cracks;
geometrically correct shape;
dimensions 11.3x6.5 or 23x12.3 cm (it is advisable to buy bricks with these parameters, since most of the ordering patterns are developed for them).

It is allowed to use fireclay bricks rather than stove bricks. But be prepared for the fact that a stove made of fireclay material will not only heat up quickly, but also cool down quickly. On the outside, fireclay products are faced with ceramic bricks. This is a must. This finish is also recommended for heating structures built from special stove bricks.

Masonry stove mortars - what should they be?

Before you build the stove with your own hands, you should understand the compositions that will ensure reliable fixation of the bricks and the entire structure. Usually used masonry mortars based on sand and clay (white kaolin or fireclay marl for ordinary bricks, gray Cambrian or ground refractory clay for ceramic).

The components of the composition for laying the stove must be selected very carefully. For example, if you feel that there is any odor (unpleasant or pleasant) coming from it, do not take it. The aroma indicates the presence of organic matter in the raw material. This clay is not suitable for laying a stove. You can take any sand, the main thing is that there are no foreign impurities in it.

The proportions in a solution of clay and sand are determined experimentally by conducting special tests according to the following scheme:

pour 1 kg of clay with plain water and leave for 24 hours until the composition sours;
knead the clay until it becomes plasticine (adding water to the sour mixture);
divide the batch into 3–5 parts and add sand to different portions (from 10 to 100% by volume);
knead the solutions (as thoroughly as possible) and dry them for about 3.5 hours.

Then the samples must be carefully rolled out into 30–40 cm long “sausages” with a cross-section of about 1.5 cm and wrapped around a round piece of larger diameter. After this, wait for the compositions to dry (about half an hour). All that remains is to analyze the quality of the solutions.

If microscopic cracks have formed on the “sausage” or there are none at all, feel free to mix clay and sand in the proportions used for this test. With cracks no more than 2 mm deep, the solution can be used for laying those areas heating structure, which do not warm up above 280–300 °C. If the “sausages” are covered with tears and deep cracks, this means that there is too much sand in the prepared mixture. It is prohibited to use it to construct a furnace.

An even simpler option is to purchase a ready-made mixture for furnace work at a hardware store. If you don’t want to bother with creating the “ideal” mortar yourself, just buy it and start building a brick oven.

It is important to strictly adhere to the order scheme you have chosen for a specific model. furnace design, and also decide on the type of masonry. Common methods of installing bricks are masonry with empty joints and undercuts. In the latter case, there is no need to plaster the finished stove - the solution is present in all seams. But when performing work with empty seams, plastering the constructed stove is a mandatory operation.

In order to avoid making fatal mistakes, beginners in the construction of home heating structures are recommended to pre-lay bricks without using a sand-clay mixture. It is done in order using 5 mm thick slats. They are placed between rows of bricks. In fact, the slats “replace” the mortar.

Once you have built the entire oven dry and are sure that everything was done correctly, begin to disassemble the structure. If possible, number all the bricks and stack them separately. Then the process of finishing masonry will go much faster for you.

vertical seams (all without exception) must be filled with mortar to avoid the possibility of delamination of the structure;
each brick in the masonry must rest on at least two others;
the smallest seam width is 2 mm;
you need to bandage all rows vertically;
the thickness of the mortar for masonry is taken to be about 5–7 mm; after pressing it with bricks, this value decreases by 2–3 mm (it is permissible to lightly tap the rows with a rubber hammer);
using ceramic bricks they are dipped in ordinary water for a couple of seconds, thanks to which they stick to the solution without any problems; there is no need to “bathe” fireclay products;
Before laying, bricks should be cleaned from dust and crumbs with a hair brush (this operation is called mopping).

A few more important points. The bricks are placed in their designated place one at a time. If a stone falls “by”, it must be removed, the clay-sand mixture removed from it, and then placed again. The mortar that was removed from the bricks is not used in the future.

We carry out the laying of the furnace ourselves using clear and simple technology

The first row of the heating structure is laid out without the use of mortar. Then all the bricks included in it are carefully leveled and the locations of all the doors and other elements of the furnace are determined. After this you need to set the position corner stones and place them on the solution.

We use a level to accurately align the horizontal position of the bricks, as well as a tape measure to check the diagonal and plan dimensions of the structure being built. Now you can lay the first row on the sand-clay mixture, starting work from the middle of the row.

The verticality of the entire contour of a brick stove during its construction is controlled by means of a simple device - plumb lines stretched on a string from the ceiling to the stove corners. The lines made in this way will become an excellent guide for masonry. Having completed the first row, we lay the second row according to a similar pattern:

put the stones in their place in the corners;
We check the verticality of the corners with a plumb line from the ceiling;
lay out the middle of the second row.

In the same way we lay the third and subsequent rows of brick. Do not forget to constantly check the stove construction plan (with the order). It is imperative to clean the outer and inner parts of the stones from excess mortar using a construction trowel.

Depending on the type of stove, choose the location of the firebox, ash pan, and ash pan. In a conventional heating device, the ash compartment is most often made after the third row of bricks, and the ash pan after the fifth.

When laying a stove, you should adhere to the important principle of tying the stones used, which involves covering the next row of each vertical seam with brick. It is desirable that the vertical connection is located clearly in the center of the brick of the next row. In practice, such an “idyll” is rarely achieved. In this case, try to ensure that the seam shift is a maximum of a quarter of the stone.

Do not forget to mount a special sheet between the floor and the first row of masonry (it is called the pre-furnace). It will hide the small gap that is always present in this place. As you can see, it is not so difficult to lay out a brick oven with your own hands.