For cladding in this case a large format tile was chosen - 18 × 24 cm. Smaller parts were cut out of it, used in the end part of the table top and on the wall.
- We make the base of the countertop from chipboard, and we will lay tiles on it. We also lay wall tiles on a chipboard side, replacing the kitchen apron.
- Before laying in the countertop, we cut a hole for the sink. The edges are treated with a composition that prevents the penetration of moisture.
- We cover the chipboard surface with a primer.
- Using a notched trowel, apply tile adhesive to the primed surface of the countertop and side. Sections of the wall bordering the side, pre-close masking tape.
- We apply the tile without applying glue to the base covered with adhesive, and fix it by slightly pressing it with our hands.
- First we lay out the wall part ( kitchen apron). Then we proceed to finish the top of the countertop. We start laying from the center. The edge adjacent to the wall is closed with a segment cut from the main tile.
Particular difficulty at this stage of finishing can cause curly cutting tiles to the size of the kitchen sink.
Curly cutting of ceramic tiles
- With a felt-tip pen on the tile, draw a line along which we will “bite”. In order not to spoil upper layer enamel, seal the surface of the tile with masking tape.
- We “bite off” the tile in small pieces, gradually moving towards the intended line. We try to install the clamps parallel to it. To control the cut, position the wire cutters so that only part of the entire surface of the clips is in contact with the mark. Otherwise, the tile pieces will turn out to be larger than necessary, and cracks will form around the place where the tool clamps are located.
Don't try to make the right cut with one broken piece. Cut gradually, working in the direction from the edge to the center.
- Even with all the precautions, the nipper teeth often leave a rather jagged edge. To level it, use a file or sandpaper- Gently rub the surface.
Grouting
After like all required surface covered with tiles, proceed to the grouting.
- The process begins with the removal of residual tile adhesive. Even during laying, we remove the glue, preventing it from drying out. Wet the places where the glue is still dry.
- For cleaning, we use a hard foam rubber sponge and wooden sticks. Don't peel off the glue metal tool- it can damage the surface of the tile itself: chip off the enamel.
- If the adhesive is not removed, it will show through the grout. Especially if the grout is light and even more transparent.
- We clean and wash the tiles from the remnants of concrete.
- Now we prepare the grout according to the instructions. Most often this happens like this: in a clean container we breed grout mixture. We add dry grout. We add water. Actions can be performed in any order. The main thing is to achieve the required density: the grout should be "thicker than sour cream, thinner than cottage cheese."
Do not immediately prepare the entire volume of grout - after 20 minutes the mixture hardens. Therefore, it is better to mix in parts.
- We apply the finished grout rubber spatula, trying to fill all the seams completely: without gaps and gaps.
Do not be afraid to stain the tile itself - at the end of the work we clean it. - We also remove excess grout with a rubber spatula. We use it to fill other seams.
- Having filled all the seams, we wipe them with a foam rubber sponge (along the seam), which we rinse and squeeze well as often as possible. At this stage, the final shape of the seam is formed.
- After 2 hours after finishing the work, wipe the tiles and seams with a dry cloth. This process is very dusty and requires a respirator to work.
The advantages of a tiled countertop are undeniable! Since the countertop is made of natural or artificial marble not everyone can afford, let's focus on the manufacture and tiling of countertops with tiles.
The tiled countertop will look great in the kitchen - as a work surface, in the bathroom - in combination with the tiled walls and our beautiful new sink. Tiles can lay out the table top on the table, window sill and so on. But if coffee table or a nightstand can be faced without much difficulty, then the countertop in the kitchen or bathroom will be exposed to moisture, high temperatures, chemical reagents that are part of detergents.
Stages of tiling countertops
Let's divide the work into several stages.
Decision-making
It's still the easiest step. I would like to note that the tiles laid out on the countertop should be in harmony with the backsplash in the kitchen and the tiles laid out either on the walls or on the floor in the bathroom. Therefore, it is better to immediately decide on the main tile.
Definitely, in the kitchen - this is porcelain stoneware. Mainly because of its durability and practicality. In terms of strength, porcelain stoneware is not inferior to natural stone. Porcelain stoneware is distinguished by one of the highest rates of wear resistance, low water absorption - about 0.05%, high resistance to oils, fats, alkaline and acidic reagents that are part of modern detergents.
The only thing to consider when choosing porcelain stoneware for the kitchen is the type of surface. Embossed or textured surface: subsequently, dirt may accumulate and the surface may be difficult to clean. Polished and semi-polished, it seems to me, will not cause any problems. Although you need to choose what is more cute. I will not specifically dwell on the mosaic, since this is a separate topic, and we will definitely consider it in the near future. I will say one thing: there are many types of porcelain stoneware imitating mosaics or small tiles (7 × 7; 10 × 10). In the absence of experience with tiles or mosaics, these options seem to be the best if you really want to get a mosaic countertop. This is especially true in kitchens. small size. If the kitchen is large or medium, it is quite possible to tile the countertop and backsplash with 30 × 30 or large tiles (up to a giant 60 × 60). Lined will look very original the same material countertop working area kitchen and countertop "island" or kitchen table.
For the countertop in the bathroom, you can use the usual facing tiles, which lined the walls, or floor.
So, we decided on the choice of the type of tile, roughly outlined, so far only in our thoughts, a plan. We can safely go shopping and look for tiles to our liking. A little later, we will decide on the number of tiles that we need to buy and all related materials.
Making a base for a future countertop
Below we will consider three ways to make a base for a tile countertop. Each of them has the right to life.
We take three sections of cabinet furniture as a basis:
- cabinet for sink size 500×560×820
- work cabinet with drawers 500X560X820
- working two-door pedestal size 600X560X820
The cabinets will be lined up. The length of the section will be 1600 mm, width - 560 mm.
For work we need
- (cutting machine) with a disc for tiles (for dry cutting)
- rasp - for processing the edges of cut tiles
- - 60 cm
- 12 cm
- high strength tile adhesive
- crosses for tiles 2.5-3 mm
- rag
- silicone sealant
- protective compound for wood
- primer or latex
- glue for wood
- liquid glass + quartz sand or waterproofing compound
- stainless steel screws 3.5-3.8 cm within 200-400 pieces
- felt-tip pen
- pencil
- mixer
- wood drill 5-6 mm
- mortar bucket
The rest - in the course of work.
For the base of the countertop, we need two sheets of plywood 1500X1500X20 of the FSF or FB brand from softwood.
- FSF - waterproof plywood glued with phenolic resin. Moisture resistant plywood can be used outdoors.
- FB - bakelite waterproof plywood (impregnated with bakelite varnish). This moisture resistant plywood can be used in hot humid climates and even sea water.
We will fasten the plywood with at least two layers of overlapping cuts. Beforehand, all parts of the cut plywood are properly treated with impregnation (at least 2 times) and moisture protective composition for wood or bituminous mastic. We cut plywood taking into account the fact that the fibers must go along the section in all layers. On all sides, plywood should protrude 3-5 cm from the walls of the section. The joints of the plywood strips should not fall into the hole that we will cut out under the sink and, preferably, should overlap the cases at the place of their joining.
We cut plywood approximately as shown in the figure, using a jigsaw. We first measure the inner diameter of the sink and cut a hole under it on both plywood layers, adjusting the transverse ties of the sink cabinet body.
All parts of the structure are treated with moisture-proof impregnation for wood. I do not mention a specific brand, since each region has its own manufacturers. We process the edges of all parts of plywood with a brush especially carefully. I repeat: all the edges of the plywood, including the saw cuts and holes for the sink! This is very important, since moisture, which can subsequently get into unprotected places of plywood, can cause delamination with all the ensuing consequences.
The kitchen section at the time of fixing the plywood sheets must be level; the bodies are tied together with special ties.
Our design will turn out to be quite heavy, so do not skimp on the legs for the cases.
We close the kitchen section securely plastic wrap to avoid damage to facades and other parts. If we have a stove (gas or electric) next to the section, then we should calculate the height of its location based on the height of our countertop (820 mm), adding to it the height adjustable legs(40 mm, two layers of plywood), the thickness of the backing layer under the tiles (10 mm) and the thickness of the tiles with adhesive backing (10 mm). Total: 880 mm. Thus, if necessary, we check the possibility of setting the stove to this level.
I summarize: we have cut parts of plywood for two layers of the future tabletop, the plywood is carefully impregnated with a protective compound, dried and processed liquid waterproofing. With special attention we approached the processing of the side edges, both in the places of cutting, and along the entire perimeter of the sheets. Thus, we are sure that moisture, which can accidentally get on the plywood, will not cause delamination.
We fasten the first layer of plywood especially securely. Our structure must be immovable. We choose stainless screws, 3.5-3.8 cm long. In the side ties of furniture cases from below, we attract the first layer of plywood, 3-4 self-tapping screws on each side. The side walls (they are highlighted in red in the diagram) are attracted to the first layer of the countertop with the help of metal corners with self-tapping screws 1.5-1.8 cm.
Apply wood glue to the top layer of plywood. It can be wood glue (not very a good option), moisture resistant PVA (Profi) or more expensive brands of wood adhesives. There is only one requirement for glue - moisture resistance. The glue is applied to the surface in a zigzag manner, the second layer of plywood is pressed and attracted by self-tapping screws. To prevent the caps from sticking out, it is necessary to pre-drill the places where the self-tapping screws are attached. We place self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the sheets with a step of 15 cm, as well as deep into the sheets with the same step. We fasten a strip of plywood 4 cm wide with self-tapping screws to the edges that will be lined. We cut the top layer of plywood using any disk on the angle grinder (the depth of the notches is 5-7 mm).
Using a stapler, we attach a paint mesh to the upper side of the second layer of plywood with a cell pitch of 0.5-2 cm. The mesh must be stretched and fixed evenly and firmly.
Plywood edges can be additionally glued masking tape(not to be confused with masking tape), burlap and smear tile adhesive with post-processing liquid glass or coated waterproofing. The joints between the tabletop and the wall are passable silicone sealant or coating waterproofing.
In principle, the countertop is ready for facing with porcelain stoneware. We just have to carefully process it with a waterproofing compound: you can choose ready-made version or prefer the composition "liquid glass + latex + water + fine sand" (the recipe is given in the article ""), dry and veneer. This is the first option mentioned above.
Let's consider two options:
- the tile is laid on a moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheet (GVL V) or on DSP sheet(more reliable way)
- the tile is laid on a cement layer, which, of course, will ensure the reliability and durability of our construction
Making a contact layer for tiles
The first option is quite simple. The cut-out sheet of GVLV or TsSP with cuttings for washing is processed from the inside with a primer. A layer of tile adhesive (the one we purchased for tiles) is applied to the top layer of plywood with a notched trowel. GVL sheet or DSP is laid on a layer, upset with a mallet and fastened with self-tapping screws to the top layer of plywood. The joints between the wall and the contact layer are treated with silicone sealant. A GVL or DSP strip is attached to the outer side edges with self-tapping screws. The joints between the strip and the side edge are filled with silicone sealant, or smeared with tile adhesive, and then smeared with liquid glass. On the surface that will be directly lined, it is necessary to fix the masking net and cover it with a waterproofing compound. Here all layers of the countertop and side edges are already processed.
That's all, after drying, the surface is ready for cladding.
Hand on heart, I’ll say that all my working practice as a tiler, I did exactly that tabletops.
However, while collecting material for this article, I stumbled upon a completely new (for me, anyway) technology, which turned out to be “good old technology”. Moreover, in the West, where tile countertops are in vogue, she received well-deserved recognition.
So, the second option. We have two layers of plywood glued together and securely fastened to the kitchen section. The side edges are treated with a waterproofing compound, a paint grid is fixed on the surface, on top of which everything is treated with a waterproofing compound.
Set up beacons. We need to make a cement cushion 1-1.5 cm high. For beacons, we will use slats 1.5 × 3 cm. We install and fix the first rail to the side edge of the tabletop so that it rises 1.5 cm above the plywood surface. its strictly in level, maintaining the horizontal. Reiki will be subsequently removed. So no need to mount them. large quantity self-tapping screws, 2-3 pieces are enough. We fix the second rail flat along the surface. With a level, we check the horizontal line between the first and second beacon rails. Next, we expose the beacon rails on the sides of the table top. We put them as the first, fasten with screws. As beacons, you can also use gypsum profiles and racks.
In place, I drank under the sink to a piece of plywood, which remained as a result of drinking from the back side, we fasten two rails. It is inserted into the hole under the sink and fastened with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the plywood through the slats.
Now we prepare the solution. What to choose as a cement pad for our countertop? It can be tile adhesive, cement-sand mortar, made in the factory (since dry fractionated sand is used in its manufacture), cement-sand mortar with the addition of some glue (for more convenient work). The only thing I would like to advise: when mixing the solution into water, add 1 part of latex to 2-3 parts of water. We get a very durable and practically waterproof coating.
The resulting solution is applied with a trowel and leveled with a 60 cm spatula along the established beacons. When the mortar begins to set, we unscrew the slats, having previously cut the contours along the sink hole with a spatula, and take out a piece of plywood along with part of the mortar. We trim the edges. The surface is smoothed with a spatula or a metal trowel. In order to get more flat surface You can slightly moisten it with a spray bottle. After the mortar has set (approximately 4-6 hours for cement-sand mixture, 12 hours - when using tile adhesive) remove the beacon rails. We putty the edge with a solution and add the solution to the location of our beacons. We level it with the main mortar layer, smooth it down. We leave our countertop for 2-3 days. At this time, you can start buying tiles and related materials.
Laying tiles
We will consider a simple cladding option: direct masonry, seam to seam.
We take a 10 × 10 cm tile as a basis. This is not the easiest of options, but we are not afraid of difficulties, are we?
next step our work will be the marking of the countertop for cladding. We measure the width of the countertop from two edges. If we did everything right, then we should get 61 cm. We mark two middle points (30.5 cm) along the edges and connect them with a line. We get a line in the center of the tabletop. In the same way, we mark the center in width: 160 + 2 × 5 (our tolerance at the edges) \u003d 170: 2 \u003d 85 cm. Similarly, set aside two points and connect them with a line.
As a result, we get two perpendicular lines running in the center of our countertop. They will serve as our guide to further work by lining.
Our next steps
- We attach the slats to the bottom of the tabletop, which we used as beacons. They will serve as a support for facing the ends of the countertop. To the end part of the tabletop, we fix the angular outer profile on the screws. We carefully prime the cement layer, wait for the primer to dry.
- Dilute the glue, according to the instructions. A primer can be added to the mixing water to ensure strength (1 part primer to 3 parts water).
- Facing is carried out from the “red corner”, i.e. from those sides that will be in sight. We will start from outside parties countertops, which we will veneer with full-length tiles. With a notched trowel, apply a layer of glue to the cement layer.
- Lay the first tile on the corner of the countertop. Next, lay out the first rows, observing the angle
90°, checking the outer line with a spirit level. Also, do not forget to check the horizontal plane in all rows using a level. Inner sides tiles should be at the same distance from the lines we repulsed.
- A little nuance to think about before we start laying out the first rows: how will we veneer the end parts of our countertop? There are several solutions to this problem. Let's consider one of them. The tile is displayed approximately one centimeter. The trimmed end tile or decorative border is glued at a right angle, factory side up. The size of the seam is regulated by crosses and subsequently filled with grout. The underside of the trim is hidden in profile. This is the easiest way to finish the end of a countertop. To simplify the work, laying the first row, immediately expose the end tiles. We observe the seams in the same way as on the main masonry. You can replace the end trim with a border. You can bring the end tile up and attach the main masonry to it. It's already the way you like it.
- Can be mounted outer corner by applying the outer corner tile profile. In this case, I advise you to start it under the top tile.
- Another option is to cut the tiles at a 45° angle. Please note that this is sufficient. hard work and without special skills and additional equipment, it is better to do with the two methods described above. If you decide to file, do not forget to grind the edges so that they are not sharp. It is possible to finish the end face of the countertop with shaped tiles or ceramic plinth. I'm not afraid to repeat myself: here everyone is a creator and artist for himself.
Further installation should not cause any special difficulties. We lay the tiles in rows - it is best to lead "long" rows. Do not forget to insert crosses into the seams and remove excess mortar. We control the plane: when applying the level, there should be no gaps between it and the tile.
Sawing tiles under the sink, you can allow an error within 0.5 cm. The most important thing is
the sink must rest on the lined surface over the entire plane. Note that porcelain stoneware is quite easy to cut with a lever tile cutter and very hard - with an angle grinder with a diamond blade. In the case of sawing the tiles under the hole for the sink, it is possible to make a template from cardboard and further marking - on it. For more information on how to lay tiles, see the article "".
So, we place the trimmed tiles near the walls and adjacent the countertop to the refrigerator, cabinets, stove, etc. In the future, these joints can be closed with a plinth, having previously smeared the seams with silicone sealant.
We overwrite the seams
Let's take a closer look at this stage of work. Our countertop, as we said above, will be subject to extreme loads - moisture, grease, chemicals of detergents and cleaning agents. That is why the filling of the seams must be approached very carefully. Ordinary tile grout just won't work here. The fact is that the limestone filler is afraid of acids. Recall an experience from a high school chemistry course: when a drop of vinegar was applied to a piece of chalk, the limestone reacted.
Most suitable materials for these purposes - grouts based on epoxy resin. They are resistant to chlorinated water, oils, fats and acids, as well as high temperatures.
The materials of this group are quite widely represented by Western and domestic producers. These are usually two-component formulations consisting of a modified epoxy resin (component 1) and fillers, pigments and a hardener (component 2).
The preparation of the material consists of mechanical (preferably with a low-speed mixer) mixing of the two components. When choosing a grout composition, it is necessary to pay attention to the recommended joint width. Often, epoxy grouts are recommended for wide (from 8 mm) joints. In our case, compositions for a seam width of 2-12 mm are suitable. I’ll make a reservation right away that working with epoxy grouts is quite difficult, since the mass turns out to be thick, and it’s not very convenient to apply it in the usual way, rubbing it with a rubber or plastic spatula into the tile joints.
Moreover, it is necessary to remove the remnants of epoxy grout from the tile in time, otherwise it will be impossible to do it later.
One way to make grouting easier is to protect the tile with masking tape, leaving the grouts cleaned, and use a syringe to grout the grouts. The cylinder is filled with a grout, the necessary nozzle is put on the syringe. After that, the grout is squeezed into the seam. The surface of the seam is formed with a piece of a bent electrical cable, or with the back of a rubber spatula. Next, the protective tape is removed. According to the instructions, after 30-60 minutes, the remains of the grout are soaked with water to an emulsion state, after which they are washed off with a damp sponge. The sponge is often washed in clean water. After another 2-3 hours, the entire surface of the tile is washed clean.
Alternative epoxy grout- grout combined, epoxy-cement. It is more easy to use. The disadvantage of this material: a limited choice of colors.
Please note that epoxy and cement-epoxy materials are distinguished by a high cost. Packing 2-2.5 kg will cost you from 1500 rubles.
Another option for grouting can be cement-based grouts designed for floors. In these grouts, the soft limestone aggregate is replaced by finely dispersed quartz. That is, the material itself is resistant to chemical reagents and has increased resistance to abrasion. After applying such a grout, after three days it is necessary to treat the seams with a strengthening water-repellent composition twice, with an interval of 12-24 hours. It is best to use a watercolor brush for these purposes. The glaze of the tile is sealed with masking tape. The resulting seams will be resistant to all surprises.
We pass the seam between the wall and the countertop tile with silicone sealant.
If we decide to veneer an apron, the procedure for work is described in detail in the article "". The only thing is that it would be better to grout the countertop tiles together with the grout of the apron. The seam between the vertical and horizontal cladding is filled according to the technology described above. Available with ceramic or plastic plinth. The seams of the apron can be rubbed with the same composition, or you can use the usual, cheaper grout.
When installing the sink in place, do not forget to coat the joint with silicone sealant.
Having shown ingenuity, we can turn old kitchen furniture into a masterpiece. Part of the facades can also be tiled. Just needs to be fixed drywall sheet or the remains of our GVL to the facade. It won't take much work. It is enough to make a tile countertop and replace the facades. By the same principle, you can make a countertop in the bathroom, veneer a table in a room, in the country. Even according to the most conservative estimates, the savings (in comparison with the cost of buying and installing countertops made of natural or artificial stone) will be at least 2 times.
My special thanks for the help in writing the article and advice to my Canadian colleague Yuri Litvichko.
Ecology of consumption.Homestead: An indispensable element kitchen furniture- table top. For her use the most different materials. Traditionally - ready-made plastic-laminated boards made of chipboard, natural and fake diamond. Tabletop from ceramic tiles- a rather rare option. Meanwhile, it is easy to do it yourself.
First, about the pros of a tiled countertop. The tile is easy to clean, resistant to mechanical stress and, most importantly, looks great. In addition, such an exclusive is much cheaper than artificial countertops, and even more so, natural stone. Porcelain stoneware, by the way, is not inferior in strength to solid natural stone.
Countertops are finished with tiles of any format, including mosaics. It looks interesting tile of the same size on a horizontal surface and on the wall. For a change, ceramic decor is added to the apron.
It is very easy to choose a tile in accordance with the plan. Its assortment in stores is huge and it remains to correctly combine the color and size of the material with all kitchen interior items. The tabletop can be multi-colored, then it will become an element that acts as an accent against the background of monochrome furniture, walls and flooring.
In the kitchen large area tiles 30x30 and even 60x60 cm in size look organically. In the latter case, trimming the tiles when laying on the tabletop base is not required standard width- 60 cm.
For a small kitchen, tiles are selected in a modest size. It is desirable that it be a multiple of the width of the countertop. Square 10x10 or 15x15 cm will be just right. And, of course, the mosaic.
Horizontally located plane - not the best place for applying tiles with uneven surface. It looks great, but the recesses can become a place for dirt to accumulate. Such a coating requires constant thorough cleaning and becomes a cause of disappointment for the hostess in the material chosen for the countertop.
Necessary materials for the design of the countertop - chipboard(chipboard) with a thickness of at least 10 mm and drywall (GKL). You will also need moisture-resistant tile adhesive, PVA construction adhesive, colored antifungal silicone sealant to match the tiles and self-tapping screws. Of the tools - a tile cutter (can be rented for 2-3 days); regular, notched and rubber spatulas; building level; electric jigsaw and a screwdriver.
A chipboard sheet is attached to the cabinets of the lower row of furniture exposed with the help of a level and interconnected with self-tapping screws. On both sides they are coated twice with moisture impregnation. The next layer is from GVL. It is glued to the bottom plate with PVA and fixed with self-tapping screws in increments of up to 15 cm. Holes for the built-in stove and sink are cut out with an electric jigsaw before ceramics are finished.
To avoid distortions, when installing the draft layer of the countertops, they constantly use building level, preferably at least 100 cm long.
A paint grid is glued to the GVL, creating a textured surface on the slab. Along the outer edges of the tabletop, formwork is constructed from thin wooden slats. Only after that they begin to work with tiles.
The field limited by pieces of wood is covered with tile adhesive and evenly distributed with a notched trowel. The tiles are laid using the thinnest crosses at the joints, so that the seams are almost invisible, and in the future they do not have to be cleaned too often. If necessary, the tiles are cut taking into account the distance between the elements. The cut edge is usually turned towards the wall.
Excess glue is removed immediately: after the solution dries, this will require additional efforts. Formwork can be removed in a day. It is necessary to remember about the constant control of the masonry by the building level. The tile, even half a millimeter, should not protrude above the common surface. The seam along the wall is filled with silicone sealant so that moisture does not penetrate the cabinet body.
To decorate the ends of the tabletop, you can use ready-made aluminum slats. But ceramic borders of the same or contrasting color look much more solid. At the rounded corners, the border is laid out, cut into small pieces.
The seams are overwritten no earlier than a day after laying the tiles. Strong and durable fugue based on epoxy resin. But it is very viscous, you need to work quickly, processing small areas. Excess is removed immediately and the surface is immediately polished with a dry cloth. To cope with the work without problems, it is better to grout the seams together.
Suitable and cement fugue. It is easier to work with it, but cleaning is also carried out without delay. For reliability and color retention, the dried grout is coated with special dirt-repellent impregnations.
Bred the puffer in small portions, following the recommendations of the manufacturers. Apply the mixture with a rubber spatula. To consolidate the result, the surface ready for use is not subjected to loads during the day.
A ceramic tiled countertop will decorate a new kitchen set and transform well-used furniture. The experience gained will be useful dining table, which will make a worthy pair of an unusual countertop. published
Every housewife knows that two aprons should be present in the kitchen - over clothes and over the wall to protect against various stains. It is very practical and convenient when the continuation of the second apron becomes kitchen countertop from tiles.
Such a table will be very reliable and durable, it will give the kitchen freshness and comfort.
Do-it-yourself tile kitchen worktop will also be your pride! To create it yourself, you need to initially come up with a sketch, make a base and tile the countertop. About more detailed technology we will now tell you more.
Why do many people choose tiles, because there are enough a large number of other first-class materials? The answer is simple: a ceramic tile countertop is highly resistant to dirt and can be easily cleaned with any detergents. In addition, it is not afraid of moisture, has high resistance to mechanical influences and can be done in beautiful designs. The main thing is to choose the right type of tile before facing.
A do-it-yourself tile kitchen worktop can be made of ceramic tiles with a smooth or embossed surface. In the second case, the tile can serve as a place for the accumulation of dirt, so experts recommend choosing a polished material with smooth surface, which does not cause difficulties in care. A mosaic countertop will also look spectacular.
When choosing tiles for making countertops, it is important to take into account the size of the kitchen. If the area is large, you can pick up a 30x30 or 60x60 cm tile. If the kitchen is small, a mosaic or small tile dimensions 15x15, 7x7 or 10x10 cm.
We make the base under the countertop
There are two practical and uncomplicated options here: the base can be made of FB sheets or FSF plywood. It is installed before laying the tiles. Plywood is pre-treated with impregnation, waterproofing and dried. This is necessary so that during operation it does not exfoliate from the trapped liquid. All related wooden details.
The next step is to mount the base-frame. In order for the kitchen worktop to turn out to be of high quality with your own hands, you need to correctly attach the first layer of plywood. First, it is pulled to the body in the side ties. Then they are attached with self-tapping screws measuring 3.8 cm. They also attract to plywood side walls, bringing it all together metal corners and self-tapping screws.
On a securely fortified layer, zigzag is applied waterproof adhesive for wood, PVA or carpentry. The second layer of plywood is pressed on top and fixed with additional self-tapping screws. You need to place them at a distance of 15 cm from each other around the entire perimeter. A 4 cm strip of plywood is attached to the edges.
On the second layer of the material to be laid, notches about 6 cm long are made. A paint grid is applied on top, which is fixed with a stapler. The mesh should be well stretched and brought over the edges of the plywood.
The last stage is the application of glue with liquid glass and the processing of the structure with liquid waterproofing. Now that our base is ready, the countertop is tiled. First you need to apply markings to avoid distortions and a cement layer that will connect the tile to the base.
Covering the countertop with tiles
Tiled flooring is the most practical for a kitchen countertop. The tiles are fixed on cement mixture. Before applying the cement layer, it is necessary to attach the rails to the edges 1.6 cm above the base. The same rails are fixed along the walls at the same level with the surface. The resulting recesses should be filled with cement and leveled with a spatula. Then you need to putty after the composition grabs, and after its final hardening, the slats on the sides are removed and filled with the same cement.
In order for the do-it-yourself kitchen worktop made of tiles to be even, you need to make the correct markings. If you decide to tile the ends as well, then you should start from the edge. The tiling of the countertop starts from the outer corner, i.e. "Push". If a whole tile does not fit against the wall, it is cut.
The cut of the tile is done in several small pieces. First, draw a cut line on the reverse side with a felt-tip pen, and seal the upper surface with adhesive tape to prevent damage and chipping of the glaze on the tile. The cut edge can be uneven and rough, so it is carefully rubbed with a file or sandpaper.
The ceramic tile worktop must be laid evenly so that the width of the joints is the same. Therefore, you need to use crosses between each tile. When the tiling of the countertop over the entire surface is completed, you need to proceed to the edge. It is trimmed with edged tiles. At the same time, do not forget to fix the ends with masking tape to prevent the tiles from slipping.
We overwrite the seams
When the kitchen worktop is tiled with your own hands, you need to wipe the seams. This work includes several procedures:
Remove the remaining tile adhesive.
It is advisable to do this while laying the tiles, preventing it from drying out. If you missed the moment, the dried glue should be moistened before removal.
For cleaning, it is better to use wooden sticks or a hard foam sponge so that the ceramic tile countertop is not damaged.
Remaining adhesive may show through the grout, especially if it is light or transparent.
We wash and clean the tile from cement residues.
Ceramic tile countertop - grout the seams
We prepare the grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. Remember that by appearance it should be "less than cottage cheese, but thicker than sour cream." In this case, you should not dilute the entire mixture at once, as it dries very quickly. It is better to breed several times in small portions.
The finished grout should carefully fill all the seams with a rubber spatula without any gaps. If you stain the tile, clean it with a sponge.
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