How to lay linoleum in a new apartment. How to lay linoleum with your own hands - for those who do the repairs themselves. How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor

Every owner strives to arrange the floors so that they are not only beautiful, but also easy to use - warm, soft, not requiring complex care. But an important, and sometimes even the determining factor when choosing the type of material for the “finishing” finishing is the ability to carry out all the activities without the involvement of outside craftsmen. For those who do not want to pay hired workers, preferring to work independently, scrupulously observing all the requirements for installing the coating, this article will tell you how to lay linoleum carefully and with high quality.

Before laying linoleum with your own hands, you should carry out a whole range of preparatory measures, regardless of what base the installation is made on and what type of material is used for finishing. If the employee understands their meaning, he himself will determine what and to what extent needs to be done in this particular room.

Laying linoleum - what to consider?

Canvas dimensions. You need to focus on the dimensions of the room, as well as the features of its geometry. It is best if the linoleum covers the surface completely, without seams. But this is only acceptable for small rooms. If you have to make a covering from several parts, then it is advisable to plan the work so that the joints fall in places that will subsequently be blocked from visual view by pieces of furniture or are located, for example, at the far end of the room, on the threshold.
It is advisable to draw up a plan of the room and use it to determine the most convenient option cutting the canvas. The task is to use the purchased material as rationally as possible and reduce the number of remaining pieces to a minimum.
Will the old baseboard be used? Commercially available plastic products provide the possibility of laying under them engineering communications(for example, wired telephone lines, cable TV) through special channels.
Type of linoleum. The thicker one is more expensive (commercial, semi-commercial), but it helps reduce heat loss and improve the quality of sound insulation; and the floors become “softer”. The feasibility of additionally purchasing a “substrate” (and its type) is immediately determined. This largely depends on the base material and the specifics of the room.
Type of adhesive composition. Its choice depends not only on what surface the coating is being laid on, but also under what conditions the work will be carried out (humidity in the room, temperature).

How to lay linoleum correctly

Preparing the base

If the floors are not newly installed, first of all you need to make sure of their condition. To do this, it is cleared not only of debris, but in some cases also of old coating. Constant dampness in the room, insufficient temperature even with hot radiators may be the result of some defects interfloor covering(depressurization of joints of reinforced concrete slabs, formation of cracks, cavities, fungus). In order to be able to carry out a detailed inspection of the base, it must be thoroughly washed. Accordingly, all shortcomings are immediately eliminated.

Treatment with special compounds

The base can be different - concrete, wood (boards, MDF, etc.). You need to understand that any material is capable of absorbing moisture to some extent, therefore, mold and mildew cannot be avoided. Besides, wooden crafts(joists, slabs) burn well. Therefore, it is necessary to use appropriate impregnating agents - against fire (fire retardants), against rotting (antiseptics), against penetration of liquids into the structure (waterproofing compounds).

Padding

To determine whether it is worth doing, you need to understand why it is being done.

Firstly, such compositions “beat” the dust, so when applying glue to the base, it will not “roll” into lumps, but will lie evenly over the entire area.
Secondly, partially absorbed into the structure of the material, the soil further strengthens it upper layer and partially prevents the absorption of liquids.
Third, the primer increases the reliability of gluing, since the glue “adheses” to such a surface more reliably.

The primer composition must be applied in at least 2 layers, and the first one must dry well. By the way, you also need to choose the right primer that matches the base material.

How to lay linoleum

The general principle is simple - cover the entire surface of the floor. Moreover, taking into account that the material is slightly wrapped on the walls. It is not difficult to trim linoleum after it has been completely straightened, smoothed and air removed from under it. The question is different - how to connect the individual parts and how to fix them on the base? Let's take a closer look at the methods, and in what sequence, how and what to do, everyone will determine for themselves.

Fastening the pieces

This method is useful if the seam will not be covered with anything. It is necessary to achieve evenness of the cuts, otherwise hide the joints without using decorative strips(they are sold in a large assortment) will not work. The easiest way is to put the pieces side by side. Under the intended cut line, tape (double-sided) or a special tape is attached to the base. It will prevent parts of the linoleum from moving. Pieces of canvas are placed on top of each other with an overlapping edge of 4 - 5 mm. Strictly in the center (a metal ruler will come in handy) with a sharp blade (knife, scalpel) the material is cut through. After this, an adhesive is introduced into the seam, and the edges are pressed tightly to the base.

Fixation on the floor

1. No gluing.

This is suitable for small room, the floor of which is covered with one sheet. In this case, fastening occurs using skirting boards. If they are plastic, then they will not be able to reliably press the edges of the material to the base, so the linoleum is additionally fixed around the perimeter. Options - glue, a strip of adhesive tape, construction staples (if the base is made of wood or nails).

2. Using adhesive

It is necessary to take into account that the technique is selected taking into account 2 factors. Firstly, the material should not wrinkle during use. Secondly, someday it will have to be changed. What is the best way to secure it in order to minimize damage to the base during dismantling?

By the way, the recommendations that for high-quality gluing it needs to be completely coated with an adhesive composition and allowed to harden (a kind of additional priming) raise some doubts about the advisability of this measure. After all, this adhesive layer will be absorbed and then impossible to remove. This needs to be taken into account for the future.

If the pieces are small, then you can spread glue over the entire area. But it will be difficult to remove them later. You will have to purchase a special solvent. Easier adhesive composition Apply along the perimeter and additionally crosswise.
Working with large canvases is much more difficult. Gluing around the perimeter is a must. But the rest of the surface can be attached in different ways - apply glue using the “spot” method over the entire area; draw parallel lines at small intervals; build a kind of lattice from the adhesive composition. Taking into account the specifics of the room, the intensity of movement of people, size and a number of other indicators, an acceptable option is selected. Moreover, in different “zones” of the room you can use different methods, in other words, combine them. The main thing is the result.

Separately, it is worth dwelling on the question of how to lay linoleum on plywood. In principle, the fundamental methodology does not change. It is only necessary to carry out a qualitative inspection of such a leveling layer (a type of “dry screed”). If necessary, the joints of the sheets are sealed (silicone, putty), and the material itself is treated with an antiseptic compound that protects it from rotting.

The roll rolls out easily on such a flat base, and further fixation of the linoleum does not cause any difficulties.

Considering that the surface of the plywood is smooth, you should first go over it with a coarse abrasive ( sandpaper with stone of large fractions). The added “roughness” will increase the reliability of the “adhesion” of the adhesive composition to the base.

1. There are many different opinions on the issue of how to lay linoleum correctly if the floor has already been covered with this material. There cannot be any definite advice here, since you need to objectively assess the condition of the old coating:

arguments “For” - such laying (on top of the previous layer) provides additional insulation and increases the degree of sound insulation; no need to dismantle and level the base; the floor will become “softer”;
arguments against" - old linoleum nothing more than an accumulation of various microbes, bacteria and dust that it has “collected” over the entire period of operation. If it is not dismantled, then there will always be dust in the room (and therefore in the lungs), which, of course, does not contribute to the health of family members.

2. Linoleum is supplied to shopping centers in rolls of fixed dimensions. During the sales process, there are always unused “meters” that are classified as “substandard”. If during the installation process it turns out that there is no piece of the required size left, it is more advisable to purchase from the store from such leftovers. The same material, but sold at a price 1.5 times lower.

3. Before laying linoleum, it must be spread over the entire floor area and allowed to “sit.” The material is quite elastic, so all folds will soon straighten out. This process can be accelerated if they are slightly moistened with water (warm).

4. If there is a shortage of purchased adhesive composition, you can prepare a “substitute” yourself. A small piece of linoleum scraps (not on a fabric basis) is crushed and filled with solvent. The resulting mass (it must be thoroughly mixed regularly to achieve the desired consistency) will completely replace industrial glue.

5. When purchasing linoleum, you should find out what adhesive composition for working with it is recommended by the Manufacturer. The wrong choice of glue can lead to problems with the further use of the floor.

How to lay linoleum with your own hands? In fact, everything will turn out very easy if you follow certain instructions and advice from professionals. Laying linoleum is much easier than, for example, laminate. And so, you bought linoleum, it lies waiting in the wings. And the whole family looks at you thoughtfully with the same question, how to lay linoleum? Maybe call a professional guy to do it quickly and efficiently? Stop thinking, you can do everything yourself, which will “delight” your home budget and feel the sea positive emotions from what was done. The main thing is to think about everything in advance and slowly change your home beyond recognition.

Floor arrangement diagram.

Linoleum is a cheap and practical material. They can transform any room or space. Today on the building materials market there is quite a rich selection of styles and color solutions. This allows you to bring any design ideas to life. In addition, linoleum material is distinguished by high strength and the ability to withstand considerable mechanical load. It remains to figure out how to lay linoleum.

Preparation for installation work

The procedure for laying linoleum at the front door.

When carrying out work on laying linoleum, you need the following tools for marking and adjusting the fragment:

ruler and tape measure;
pencil;
stationery knife;
scissors.

When you are laying linoleum flooring in a large room (more than 25 square meters), you should stock up additional tool. At the same time, in rooms with a smaller area, gluing is not used, since free installation is performed. This:

glue;
double sided tape;
roller;
putty knife.

The entire possible set of tools is listed, it all depends on what and how you will lay the linoleum.

Construction of floors covered with linoleum on the ground.

The first step in preparing for work is to vacate the premises. Take out large furniture and all kinds of objects in the room. The space should be cleared to the maximum. If the work is carried out in a two-room apartment, then the linoleum is laid one by one. And the furniture is moved to where this moment nothing is being repaired.

You have vacated the room, then you need to think about preparing the floor surface. And it doesn’t matter what kind of floor covering you had before, you need to make sure that before final installation, the surface on which the material is spread is cleaned and leveled. It is necessary to remove the skirting boards along all the walls of the room, since the laid covering will be adjacent directly to them. If you plan to use the baseboard again, remove it carefully so as not to break it. In this case, you can even number the planks on the back side by placing a similar number on the wall to make it easier further work. If the repair work was carried out quite a long time ago, and it is not possible to remove the baseboards intact, then it is better to purchase new ones. Aesthetics will only benefit from this.

Now it’s worth paying attention to the floor itself. If you decide to major renovation, then the ideal option would be to use a self-leveling floor. This option is optimal if the base is made of concrete or cement screed. But in most cases, linoleum is spread over a board or drying parquet. And if you don't plan to clean up the old flooring completely, select one of the options for eliminating irregularities:

Use of chipboard sheets.
Strengthening falling parquet strips.
Using self-leveling floor technology with special leveling compounds.

Scheme for laying antistatic linoleum.

A big problem with old floors is squeaking. Therefore, when making repairs, attention should be paid to this.

The only goal pursued by everyone preparatory work, is to achieve a perfectly flat and clean floor surface. Protrusions, depressions, all kinds of irregularities and debris on the base of the floor will certainly make themselves felt when covering, appearing in places of the most intense wear. You now know how to level the surface, and cleanliness can be achieved with a vacuum cleaner and wet cleaning.

It is important when laying linoleum to comply temperature regime, which varies from +15 to +25 ºС. At lower temperatures, the material may lose elasticity and become brittle. Pay attention to this if you are doing repairs in winter. Even if the room is warm, allow material brought in from outside to warm up. The lower outside temperature, the longer the warm-up time will be, up to 12 hours. Before work, spread out the roll and let it rest. This way you will avoid unwanted “waves”.

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What to choose?

A small digression to direct installation linoleum there will be tips on choosing material: linoleum and substrate. When choosing the first one, you need to make a selection commensurate with the loads that will fall to its share. The shoes that will be worn on the linoleum material and even air humidity are also taken into account. Based on this, choose the thickness of the coating. The thicker it is, the stronger it is, of course. For example, a coating with a thickness of less than 3 mm has almost minus resistance and will deteriorate critically quickly under intensive use.

Often when using linoleum, a backing is placed underneath it. In most cases this cork backings. When using them, the effect of easy walking on the floor is achieved. But at the same time, heavy objects will leave their unwanted marks on it. Also, jute or linen materials look good as a substrate. They are pre-treated with an antifungal compound and are provided with fire resistance. The use of a backing is recommended if the linoleum is without a base. In this case, insulation is mandatory. Otherwise, substrates are not used, since they do not have sufficient mechanical strength and rigidity.

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Scheme for laying conductive linoleum in rolls.

As mentioned above, the first thing to check is how level the floor is and whether cracks and protrusions have been removed. After wet cleaning Make sure that the floor remains dry, free of grease, paint and other contaminants.

If you are using a substrate, then on at this stage it is necessary to spread it as evenly as possible over the floor surface. Next, the substrate is leveled and trimmed at the corners. Remember, the use of a substrate is only necessary if the linoleum does not have a base.

Directly laying the linoleum flooring begins from the wall that is least cluttered with furniture and is clearly visible. The roll of linoleum is rolled out with a flat side near the wall, leaving excess material overlapping the remaining walls. Be sure to pay attention to the placement of the drawing.

If the roll is not wide enough, you have to join the strips of coating.

The structure of household linoleum.

To do this, the strips are positioned so that one covers the other with an overlap of about 10 cm. You will have to use glue to attach part of the strip in the joint area to the floor. Then, using a knife, you need to cut the linoleum under the ruler at the overlap, removing what was cut and gluing the edges. The junction should be as invisible as possible.

When the location of the pattern has been compared, you can safely begin trimming the linoleum in the allowance areas, in the corners of the room. This is important and extremely necessary so that it is possible to press the linoleum material against the walls around the perimeter with the greatest density and trim it with precision.

Next, using a spatula and placing it in the bends, press the material to the corner between the floor and the wall. And using a sharp knife, remove the excess part of the coating, that is, what was left for allowance. After you do this, the maximum gap allowed between the walls and the coating should be no more than 1-2 mm. Don't worry, it won't be there after the final leveling of the linoleum. At this stage, it is necessary to stop work and let the linoleum rest for about 24 hours. The bigger, the better. After which you can safely begin installing the baseboards.

Laying linoleum with your own hands is an easy task that anyone can do. Clear recommendations from a specialist, the necessary free time and a bit of your own hard work - this is the secret to an excellent result that will please you and your whole family.

Similar materials

All the advantages and disadvantages of putting new linoleum on the old one are still being debated. There are contraindications for this type of flooring; if present, this type of installation will not allow you to get results. High Quality. Flooring also involves many nuances that must be taken into account.

Advantages and disadvantages

To begin with, we should say a few words directly about linoleum covering. It represents the most cheap look Among all existing ones, however, this does not mean at all that it looks cheap and performs poorly.

On the contrary, linoleum does not require special care. It does not need to be polished or cleaned too thoroughly, since dirt practically does not stick to it, and therefore all maintenance comes down to simply wiping with a damp cloth and timely repair of irregularities and damage.

Old coating is not always actually old. So, in some cases, it simply may not fit the atmosphere of the room, or not match it in color or style. In this case, the most logical thing would be to lay new linoleum on top of the old one.

This method has many advantages:

Laying a new coating over the old one saves a lot of time that would have been spent on dismantling the old coating, preparing the surface and other preparatory procedures.
Due to the fact that there is no need to dismantle and install an insulating coating, significant savings are achieved.
If you lay a new layer on top of the old one without dismantling it, this will help avoid the formation of debris and dirt during work (not entirely, of course, but their amount will be much less than when completely re-laying the linoleum).
Since the old canvas will serve as a kind of bedding, in this way it will be possible to achieve high level noise and thermal insulation.
Due to the double layer of linoleum, the floor will become softer, concealing the sound of steps.

Despite all the above advantages, the method also has a number of disadvantages:

Possibility of rapid damage to the canvas due to insufficient preparation of the old coating that serves as the base. There is a possibility that the new floor will move in waves and creases will form on it.
There are also risks of the development of mold and mildew if the builder did not “check” during installation. Fungus from the substrate will easily spread to a new layer of linoleum, and this is fraught with health problems in the future. Some types of fungus can contribute to the development of asthma and other respiratory problems.
If creases and holes form, it will be much more difficult to repair the canvas than if it were laid on a concrete base.

Thus, you need to carefully weigh the pros and cons before deciding to install a new layer of linoleum over the old one and only then start planning such an important decision.

In what cases can it be placed?

Laying new linoleum on top of the old one seems like an easy solution, however, in reality everything is not at all simple.

There are indications for the possibility of laying linoleum on top of the existing one. Ignoring them will lead to rapid deterioration of the new coating, so complete re-covering will be a more economical option:

The existing floor covering deserves careful attention. Pay attention not so much to its beauty as to its current condition. Cracks in the layer that do not form a relief or the height difference is no more than 1.5 mm can be ignored and not considered as a stop signal for the specified method of installing new linoleum.
Pay attention to how the canvas is fixed. If it fits tightly to the floor and, so to speak, is glued tightly, there are no contraindications. Examine the floor very carefully, so you can see the existing voids and promptly eliminate them.
If your linoleum has an antiseptic impregnation, then you are very lucky. Most likely, you will not find fungus or other vegetation here.

If you cannot boast of the presence of such impregnation, it is best to pay close attention to the presence of anomalies that at least vaguely resemble fungus. If you don't find anything, then the canvas is suitable for use as a substrate.

The evenness of the floor also plays a significant role. It happens that old linoleum was laid directly on a wavy floor, and as a result it tore and cracked. If the floor does not have any differences and can be called flat, then laying a new layer on top of the previous one is possible.
The service life of the previous layer is also important. If it has been laid relatively recently, there is no reason not to use it as a substrate. On the contrary, it would be a stupid decision complete dismantling, since in the long run it will be more expensive and energy-consuming.
The matching of the old coating type and the new one also plays a role. Linoleum is divided into the following varieties: household, semi-commercial, commercial and special. They differ in the degree of wear resistance. It is ideal when the new linoleum is of the same type as the one already laid (for example, it is good to lay household on household, commercial on commercial, etc.).

In general, there are quite a few indications for approval of laying linoleum over an existing coating.

It is extremely important that your option fully meets these requirements, otherwise the situation may not play out in your favor, and the resulting floor will not produce the desired effect.

Why can't you do styling?

There may be several options:

First of all, you cannot lay a new layer on old linoleum if it is not firmly fixed to the base. Indicators can be voids, swellings and so-called waves. If the voids are small, you can try to eliminate them with improvised means using cold welding, however, if the entire linoleum sheet, roughly speaking, is attached only to the baseboards, it is better to completely dismantle it and make new floors properly.
Regardless of what type of linoleum is laid, its service life should not expire. For example, often the question of installing one coating on another arises before owners of floors left over from Soviet times. It is clear that it will be very difficult to tear off a tightly glued linoleum covering, however, this must be done if its service life has already passed the fifteen-year mark.
Laying such a floor on an uneven floor is also not the best good idea. It will accurately repeat not only all the bends, but also every damage, and very soon it will lose its presentable appearance.
An important contraindication is the presence of fungus or mold.

An untidy, dusty surface is not suitable for laying a new floor over. The fact is that dust pollution affects human health in the same way as mold and mildew, not to mention the fact that they often harbor dust mites, which are no less dangerous.
A contraindication for installation is a linoleum covering assembled from several tiles or strips. The fact is that over time, the existing joints will still corrode, forming dents in the substrate, which, in turn, will lead to damage to the top sheet.

It is not recommended to lay linoleum with a felt backing on top of the existing one, as there will be problems with its gluing. Such a model cannot be installed with ordinary sealant or double-sided tape; you will definitely need to purchase expensive materials, so it would be cheaper and better to simply completely re-lay the floors.
The most obvious contraindication is the ban on such an installation, dictated by the manufacturer of the model you have chosen. For example, Tarkett linoleums are often not suitable for similar installation, they can only be laid on a concrete or plywood solid floor.

It is definitely not possible to answer the question of how best to lay linoleum - on an old coating or on a vacant floor. Both methods have their advantages, however, dismantling would still be more logical and correct.

How to remove old coating?

If you have analyzed the existing situation in your home and come to the conclusion that the floor does not match necessary requirements or fits most of the “cons” parameters, you may have a natural question about removing old linoleum.

IN in this case It will take skill and patience, as well as following the instructions below:

First you need to completely empty the room of any objects standing on the floor. Take out all the furniture, remove the baseboards.
Vacuum and clean out the pores. It is easier to dismantle a clean floor covering, as it is easier to soften.
On the old canvas, at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other, you need to make cuts from wall to wall. The stripes must run parallel to each other.
Dilute the soap solution at the rate of 100 ml of dishwashing detergent per liter of warm water.

Along the cut strips, begin to wet the linoleum, gradually peeling it off. First, the top layer will come off, then you need to separate the felt backing. It may require more wetting.
Separate the linoleum in strips, gradually moving from the far corner to the door. It should be noted that the solution will not only facilitate the peeling procedure, but will also prevent dust from entering the air.
After the main part of the linoleum has been dismantled, begin peeling off the felt residue. To do this, wet them well with a solution of dishwashing detergent and let them dry completely. Scrape off the dried felt with a spatula. Vacuum the canvas and wipe with a damp cloth. Thus, the old canvas will be completely dismantled.

It is best to place the removed linoleum in garbage bags directly in the room in which it was dismantled. This will prevent the spread of dust and dirt throughout the entire apartment, and will also make the task of collecting garbage easier.

Please note that it is best to work with gloves and a respirator. This is especially true for dismantling really old coatings that are more than 15 years old.

Such preventive measures will prepare you for the possibility that there will be mold under any of the paintings. This way, you won't have to touch it with your bare hands, and you won't inhale the spores.

Please note that you will most likely have to change the dust bags more than once while vacuuming. The best option is to use disposable ones, since dust particles can settle in a fabric bag, thereby ruining it. Paper bags work much better.

Also, it is best to choose a metal one as a nozzle; it will polish the floor at the same time as collecting dust.

How can I glue it properly?

To glue a new linoleum covering over the old one, you will need to use special products suitable specifically for these purposes. The fact is that regular glue It won’t work here, because the surface of linoleum is quite smooth, and the adhesion will be minimal. You should choose special absorbent compounds that allow you to work with non-absorbent surfaces.

You can glue a new layer of linoleum onto the old one using double-sided tape, however, this method is rather the exception than the rule. Please note that the entire canvas cannot be glued to the tape. They can only be used to fix loose corners, small voids, etc. If possible, try to coat the substrate well with glue to avoid the formation of such gaps. Thus, tape is used only in extreme situations.

As an alternative to a special solution for working with non-absorbent surfaces, it is recommended to use a mastic solution on a rubber or synthetic basis. Although it has slightly worse characteristics, it is also possible to ensure decent adhesion of two linoleum layers, thereby making the installation of one sheet on top of another more accessible. You can buy mastic at any large construction supply store, unlike special adhesives, which can not even be found in every major city.

Please note that any of the adhesives require a long time to dry.

The difference is that adhesive for non-absorbent surfaces “sets” faster than mastic. For optimal gluing of linoleum using mastic, you need to place the canvas under a press for 24-48 hours until completely dry, so that in the future no waves will form where the canvas could move away from the base.

Hot and cold welding methods are used to glue joints. If the first option is carried out mainly by professionals, since it requires special equipment and skills, then the second is quite possible at home. Welding sold in construction stores in tubes. For the home, welding compositions of types A and C are optimal.

Nuances when laying

When installing a new linoleum sheet on top of the old one, it is worth taking into account several important nuances:

Speaking about trimming, you should pay attention to the following point: The seams should be perfectly even and fit as closely as possible to each other. No matter how good welding is used, even it cannot completely straighten crooked seams.
Type A welding is suitable for small seam gaps of less than 1mm, while Type C cold welding is more suitable for large seams (up to 4mm).
For installation on top of existing linoleum, a solid sheet is more suitable, however, this issue is not fundamental. It is much more important that the source material itself consists of one solid layer and does not have seams or joints throughout the entire laying area.

For flooring over existing linoleum, it is better to choose the most rigid samples. This is due to the fact that the final result is very soft, easily susceptible to pressing. Hard linoleum is more wear-resistant; it does not show dents from cabinet furniture or other materials longer. heavy objects furnishings.
If there are small waves, you should not immediately abandon installing the canvas in this way. Sometimes, to eliminate such irregularities, it is enough to iron the linoleum through soft cloth at the minimum heating level of the iron, and the waves will disappear as if by magic.

Carefully read the label of the linoleum you purchase. As mentioned above, some samples are simply not suitable for installation over old flooring, and it will definitely have to be completely cleaned down to the base.

Examples and options

Below is a photo gallery of images with the interiors of rooms in which linoleum was laid without dismantling the old panel.

In public institutions, they often use this installation method, when new linoleum is simply laid on top of the old one. This mainly applies to schools, hospitals and other budgetary institutions. This is done in order to save money, but, unfortunately, the result obtained is not always pleasing with its long-lasting, presentable appearance.

Many people love linoleum as a floor covering. There is nothing surprising here; it is very practical and allows you to carry out work quite quickly. That is, there is no need to have special skills that are needed, for example, when working with laminate. Although when laying linoleum you will have to try a little. It is very important to follow the rules for cutting the material, which must correspond to the configuration of the room.

Just recently, it was difficult to imagine such a variety of construction and finishing materials that are now on the market. Therefore, it is not surprising that many different types linoleum, which meet various consumer needs.

The main advantages of the material can be identified:

Easy to lay linoleum on the floor. This is one of the main advantages of the material. All work can be carried out independently; no special tools are required.
There is no need to comply with specific operating standards. Linoleum can be laid and used in almost any room, making it a truly versatile product.
This material does not require application additional funds protection. For example, wooden surfaces necessarily require the application of varnish or paint.
Not afraid of everyday wet cleaning. Of course, moisture should not be allowed to penetrate under the coating.

But there are also some disadvantages:

To lay linoleum, the surface must be fairly flat. This is the only way to ensure that the material will last a long time.
Due to elasticity, other problems arise - marks from furniture.

Main types of material

Of course, you want to choose a coating that will best match general appearance premises, but you need to pay attention and physical properties material.

Linoleum consists of several layers, where the protective layer protects the material from rapid wear and tear and divides it into classes

The degree of wear resistance is what should come first. These indicators depend on the class that was assigned to the product (according to foreign standards) or on three areas of use (according to Russian standards). In any case, these indicators are interrelated. You also need to understand that the technology for laying linoleum of different types may differ.

	Wear resistance	Characteristic	Usage
For residential premises
21	Low	For objects with low traffic	Bedrooms
22	Normal	For objects with average traffic
23	High		Residential and hallway areas
Premises for official use
31	Low	For objects with low traffic and little use	Hotel rooms, conference rooms
32	Normal	For objects with higher traffic, but not different in intensity	Study rooms, classrooms, offices
33	High	For objects with high traffic	Office premises, shops
34	Very high	For objects with very high traffic and constantly used	Shops, areas of permanent residence of people
Premises of industrial facilities
41	Low	For facilities where people work more sitting and use small means of transportation	Production and repair premises
42	Normal	For facilities where people work more standing and use vehicles	Warehouses
43	High	Other industrial facilities	Workshops, warehouses

There are two main types of linoleum:

Domestic. It is characterized by class indicators from 21 to 23, and is made of several layers. Possesses soundproofing properties, environmentally friendly, has different decorative look. The top, wear-resistant layer is small. That is why this type The material is used for residential premises and does not have very high wear resistance. Popular due to low price.
Commercial. It has impressive wear resistance, grades start from 41 to 43. Can be used as a substitute for household linoleum. Has many excellent technical characteristics. But it is very expensive compared to the first option.

On a note! In order not to buy products that will become unusable in a very short time, but at the same time not to overpay for unnecessary technical specifications, preference should be given to semi-commercial linoleum. It belongs to the variety - for office premises.

When choosing a material, you need to take into account that there will be an overlap on the walls (8-10 cm).

It may seem that linoleum is suitable for laying on any type of surface, even the most uneven. But you should remember what this material is - elastic fabrics that are rolled into rolls. Accordingly, any unevenness that is present on the base of the floor will be immediately visible.

Attention! Many, for the sake of saving money and avoiding leveling, resort to one rather controversial method. Namely, do-it-yourself linoleum flooring is done on existing material. That is, it turns out that the new product fits on the old one. And it may seem that all problems have been eliminated. But then even more problems arise. Among them are the appearance of moisture, mold, and fungi. And also this perfect place for breeding cockroaches.

Preparatory work before laying linoleum varies depending on the base material.

Wooden surfaces

You can often find two main types wooden surfaces: plank flooring and parquet. None of them can boast of evenness. That is why you will have to tinker with the floor a little, but the result will be very impressive. All work can be divided into the following stages:

Concrete base

If the room has concrete floors, their preparation should be approached most carefully, even if you plan to lay a covering that will have an insulated backing. You can get a warm and reliable base in two main ways:

Flooring wood boards- the most popular and, at the same time, simple method of leveling the surface. A vapor barrier substrate is preliminarily laid under them.
Dry or “wet” screed. This option is considered preferable, but is more expensive. But it is possible to obtain a surface that will serve for many years and not cause any problems.

Which option to choose depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Tool

After preparing the base, the main stage begins. First they select necessary tool. You will need:

construction knife and scissors;
pencil (pen) and tape measure;
long slate or tape measure.

Main works

It’s worth mentioning right away that there are two main installation methods:

Flooring fixed with skirting boards.
Pasting.

On a note! It is better to stick linoleum in rooms with an area of more than 30 square meters. But, if you need to lay several pieces of material, then glue will be the most rational solution Anyway.

Must be observed preliminary stage preparation before laying the product. Namely:

All work is carried out at temperatures above fifteen degrees.
Linoleum must remain in the room for at least twelve hours.
You need to roll it out on the floor and let it sit for a while.

Sequence of work

Laying linoleum with your own hands - step-by-step instructions:

Gluing linoleum at home looks like this:

The canvas is pre-prepared, leveled and trimmed.
The base is primed.
Then fold one half of the product and apply glue to the floor. Linoleum is straightened and smoothed.
This is repeated with the second half.

To connect two sections of the product use different methods. But linoleum must be glued end-to-end. The following docking methods can be distinguished:

Through hot welding. A special tool is used for this.
Glue the two pieces of material together using double-sided tape.

On a note! Laying commercial linoleum has some nuances. It is better to entrust such work to professionals.

In any case, you need to approach linoleum flooring responsibly. Any, even the smallest flaws, will immediately become apparent. Therefore, everything should be done carefully and following the instructions.

Installation of any finishing material is not a job that needs to be approached exclusively creatively. In order to flooring If it has served properly for the period stated by the manufacturer, you should first read the instructions. And, of course, follow all the rules and recommendations prescribed by it.

Finishing elastic coatings have been actively used in floor finishing for more than 2 centuries. Available:

Heterogeneous - multi-layer linoleum products consisting of a base (foamed vinyl chloride polymer or felt made of synthetic threads), a front layer (a thin layer of calender fabric with a certain decor) and a transparency (a protective surface coating). Additional layers are often added (reinforcing, improving strength).
Homogeneous - single-layer coatings with an extremely high degree of wear resistance with a uniform structure and uniform decor throughout the entire depth of the material.

To choose the right linoleum yourself, before going to the store, decide on the following parameters:

Type of coating. There are 2 types of products used in the household sphere

Coverage type. Available for sale:

Wear resistance class. As can be seen from the table below, each room is assigned specific category loads. That is, the level of traffic, the presence in the room of heavy furniture, interior items on casters, etc.

For example, for bedrooms, class 21 finishing material is recommended for the floor because in these rooms people almost never wear heels - only slippers. Therefore, it is not the wear resistance of the top layer that is important, but the dense structure of linoleum. At the same time, in kitchens and corridors, as well as living rooms with massive furniture, it is not necessary to purchase semi-commercial or commercial coatings of 32-33 classes. Enough high-quality linoleum class 23 or 31 from famous manufacturer: Tarkett, Juteks, Forbo, etc.

Design. This criterion can be called perhaps one of the most important. Depending on your choice, the room can become brighter and visually larger. And vice versa, more austere or even gloomy, if it is not diluted with an abundance of light “blobs” in the form of walls, furniture, etc.

Base type. The base layer made of foamed PVC is considered universal, and the felt layer is warmer. However, the polyester base does not like water - when wet it emits bad smell, fades, takes a long time to dry out. Therefore, it is not recommended to lay linoleum on a fabric or combined base in rooms with high humidity (kitchens, balconies).

Canvas size. Measure maximum length and the width of the floor in the room, including niches and doorways. If the walls are uneven, add a margin of 5-8 cm to each indicator plus 1-2 cm for shrinkage (PVC products are rolled into rolls while hot, and after unfolding in the sales area they “shrink” a little, this is a natural physical process). In the case where several cuts are needed, make sure that the blades are cut in front of you from one roll or, at least, from rollers of the same batch. Different series may differ in tone or structure, which is not a defect or defect in the product.

If the room is large and the joints of the canvases run in the center of the room or offset, try to choose a design with minimal repeat (a repeating part of the pattern on the surface of the linoleum). This will reduce the amount of waste when adjusting the pattern.

When dispensing a linoleum cut, carefully inspect the surface on minor damage and defects of the front layer: there should be no scratches, dents, dots or stripes, asymmetrical or blurry patterns, etc. Linoleum, like any elastic material, is rolled up with the front side inward for subsequent transportation. It is strictly prohibited to bend or fold the cut into an envelope. This can lead to irreversible damage to the full thickness of the finishing material.

Proper transportation of linoleum.

An interesting article about choosing linoleum according to quality criteria:.

How to lay linoleum correctly: choose the appropriate method

Both natural and PVC coatings are laid in almost identical ways, so we will consider the installation technology of vinyl chloride products, as the most common.

If the base is carefully prepared and meets the basic requirements, then installation is carried out according to the recommended instructions:

Fixation method	Materials used	pros	Minuses
Adhesive	Water-dispersed special polymer-based adhesive with excellent adhesive properties	Reliability Durability Resistance to bending, shearing and twisting deformations	Difficult dismantling
	PVA is a universal and inexpensive glue with a pungent odor.
	Synthetic latex-based universal mastics with a biocidal effect
On double tape (for concrete floors with a hardened surface)	The connection of linoleum with the base along the perimeter and at the joints in doorways is made using adhesive double-sided tape	Partial resistance to shearing, stretching	Insufficient connection reliability
Simple, perimeter fixation	Linoleum is laid on the surface and pressed to the base with skirting boards	Fast installation, minimal costs	Unreliable and short-lived connection

Surprisingly, on the Internet you can find very extreme methods of fixing natural and PVC coatings - using self-tapping screws, sealants, “ liquid nails», furniture stapler and even linoleum (roofing) hardware. These options are ineffective and can only be used if the flooring material is purchased for temporary flooring - for 1-3 months

Required tools and materials

To lay linoleum yourself, you will need the following kit:

Compositions for repairing base defects or leveling surfaces;
Construction vacuum cleaner;
Knife for cutting coatings with a hook or construction knife (with replaceable blades);
Steel lath or level;
Tape measure and marker;
Notched trowel or short-haired roller for applying adhesive;
Lapping board, sail trowel or clean roller (rubber or velor) for smoothing linoleum to the base floor;
Masking tape or Double-sided tape;
An adhesive composition for fixing linoleum to the base, as well as an adhesive or strengthening primer;
Adhesive for joining seams. Best to buy special compounds series "cold welding". They fuse the canvases, and the joint turns out to be monolithic, almost imperceptible;
Set of skirting boards with fittings and decorative thresholds made of metal or PVC.

How to lay linoleum with your own hands

Room temperature – not lower than +15 °C, base temperature – from +14 °C to +25 °C.
Relative air humidity – up to 75%.
The interval for acclimatization of the spread coating is at least 24 hours, in winter – up to 3 days.

Acceptable base types:

concrete monolithic base or floor slab with flat surface without defects;
cement-sand screed, anhydrite and others with a surface strength index of at least 150 kg/cm².
Prefabricated dry covering from sheet rigid materials (gypsum fiber board, MDF, moisture-resistant plywood or chipboard).

Ready base for linoleum.

Preparing the base floor

According to manufacturers' requirements, the floor should be:

Dry (humidity cement-sand screed– up to 4%, anhydrite – no more than 0.5%, prefabricated – up to 8%). If necessary, waterproofing primers can be used.
Durable (the indicator is selected based on the planned loads, varies between 150 - 300 kg/cm²).
Smooth (difference no more than 2 mm for every 2 meters of surface according to SP 29.13330.2011/SNiP 2.03.13-88). There should be no holes, cavities, tubercles, sagging or other similar defects. They are leveled using screeds, self-leveling floors or repair mixtures (spot-wise).
Monolithic, that is, seams, cracks and other damage must be repaired in advance.

The floor heating system is turned off 3-5 days before the start of work. Old coatings, including asphalt, paint and varnish, textile and the like, are removed, and the surface is vacuumed. You can prime the base before applying the glue. This will ensure uniform absorption and strengthen the top layer.

We would like to remind you that we only lay linoleum on a hard surface. You cannot install insulation and soft substrates under the material. This violates two laying rules at once - evenness and hardness.

Flooring adjustment

Very easy to work with smooth walls. The linoleum is laid so that it fits tightly to the wall in width or length, carefully leveled, fixed around the perimeter with double-sided adhesive tape, and the excess is carefully cut off. A small compensation gap is left at the edges - 0.5 - 1 cm.

If the walls are uneven, then the coating “winds up” a few centimeters onto the vertical enclosing structure, press it to the floor metal strip and gradually cut off the excess.

Trimming external and internal corners is carried out as follows: the flooring material must be pressed to the junction point connecting the walls and the floor, a cross-shaped cut of 3-5 mm must be made, and the covering must be carefully “pulled apart” to the sides. You should work without haste, because the excess is easy to remove, but the missing part is very difficult to restore.

Cutting linoleum and fixing it.

Please note: in order for the seam in the area where the two panels join to be invisible, you must:

combination of decors. Designs without a clearly defined pattern (sand, granite chips, flock) are recommended to be laid reversely, that is, in opposite directions. But products with a surface like wood, textiles, marble, tiles and others must be mounted in one direction with mandatory adjustment according to the repeat, which can reach 80 cm.

Correct combination of designs.

The spread piece must be carefully bent and rolled into a roll half its length. Remove unnecessary tape. Apply the adhesive composition with a notched trowel or roller, wait the time specified in the instructions (10-30 minutes), slowly roll out the linoleum and smooth it with a roller or lapping board for uniform gluing and removal of air bubbles. Fix the remaining half in the same way flooring material. After 1-3 days, treat the joints if necessary “ cold welding"or PVA glue according to the instructions on the box.

If the covering is fixed with double-sided tape, then after adjusting along the perimeter, the edges are bent, adhesive tape is glued to the base, and smoothed. Next is removed protective film, linoleum is applied and rolled.

The finishing touch is the fixation of decorative skirting boards and thresholds. They will decorate the room and give it a finished, seamless look.

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