Despite the fact that building materials such as plasterboard began to be used everywhere quite recently, it was patented back in the 19th century in America. His first sheets were most similar to a Napoleon cake - 10 sheets of paper glued with a thin layer of plaster. It was invented by the owner of a paper mill.
This “paper” has gained wide popularity these days.
A little about drywall
Modern drywall is complex composite material, consisting of cardboard, gypsum and various additives that give it additional qualities, such as:
- Increased sound insulation.
- Fire safety.
Drywall was once called “dry plaster,” but the name did not stick.
It is used for “dry” finishing of the room. That is, when using drywall, there is several times less dirt than during traditional repair work.
Drywall is available in 3 versions:
- Standard, manufactured without additional additives.
Note!
Standard plasterboard panels, depending on thickness, are divided into ceiling and wall.
- Moisture resistant;
- Fire resistant.
IN last years KNAUF, one of the main manufacturers of plasterboard, has released Superpol sheets, which are designed for leveling floor coverings. They have increased strength.
Important!
Drywall is ideal for finishing residential premises, as it is environmentally friendly and does not emit toxic substances when heated.
It has an acidity close to that of human skin and naturally regulates the microclimate in the room.
Modern repair technology cannot do without it. It is thanks to plasterboard that it is possible to build multi-level structures, creating modern design premises.
How to install drywall
Installation of drywall is carried out using frame and frameless methods.
- Frameless— sheets of drywall are attached directly to the walls using special glue.
- Frame— a frame for plasterboard made of galvanized metal profiles is mounted a certain shape or wooden slats, and the sheets are secured to it with self-tapping screws.
Each method of attaching drywall has its strengths and weaknesses.
- Frameless allows you to save room space, but its installation requires level wall coverings and installation work is delayed for a long time due to the fact that before further work you need to wait until the glue hardens.
- The frame mount makes it easy to install thermal insulation and communications, but you have to install sound insulation, and the size of the room is hidden, albeit slightly.
Important!
At frame method Installation of wall piercing for electrical wiring can be avoided. That is, there will be practically no dust during work.
Drywall not only levels walls. When remodeling a room, gypsum plasterboard partitions are the best option. They are lightweight, easy to use and can be covered with anything.
Related articles:
Wooden base of plasterboard partitions
Those who, after installing partitions, want to live in comfort, with good sound insulation, and those for whom one of the main parameters is the environmental safety of the room, decide to make a drywall frame from wood.
In order to extend the life of the structure, choose wooden parts the frame should be approached with all seriousness.
- The transverse cut dimensions of the selected parts for vertical racks should not be smaller in cross-section than 40x70 mm, for horizontal ones - 30x50 mm.
- All wooden slats are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic - in order to protect against insects, and with a mixture that gives the structure fire safety.
Important!
This procedure is a necessity that will help you save money on repairs in the future.
- The frame is made from coniferous trees. The humidity of wooden parts should not exceed 15%.
For your information!
Design requirements – first group for fire resistance.
Tools for work
In order to complete the frame manufacturing work, you need to have the following tools on hand:
- Drill.
- Saw or hacksaw.
- Screwdriver.
- Screwdriver.
- Level.
- Mounting dowels.
- Self-tapping screws for wood.
- Metal corners.
Making a partition in an apartment
To make wooden frame for drywall you must first prepare exact drawing, which will indicate the locations of all doorways.
- When calculating the rigidity of a structure, it is necessary to take into account the number of horizontal elements.
- Counting required amount sheets of drywall.
- The partition body is assembled. Installation begins with the support beams of the harness. Fastening to the floor and ceiling is done with self-tapping screws and dowels.
- Vertical struts are installed.
- Horizontal support rails are fixed between the vertical posts.
The cross-section of the timber of these slats is allowed to be smaller in size than that of the racks, but still not less than 30x50 mm.
Important!
When stitching, sheets of drywall must be offset relative to each other on its opposite walls.
- Insulation and possibly insulated electrical wiring are installed on the partition mounted on one side.
- Sheathing begins on the side where the insulation is attached.
Installation of insulation is necessary to reduce the sound permeability of the structure.
Mineral fiber mats and polystyrene foam are used as insulation. various densities or polystyrene foam. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, and the decision which insulation to use depends on the purpose of the room.
Note!
Mineral wool insulation materials such as basalt or dolomite fiber provide additional protection structures from moisture and reduce the fire hazard of the room.
The length of the metal dowels for drywall, with which the insulation is secured, must be at least 25-30 mm. Otherwise, the design will be unreliable and short-lived.
Wooden frame for wall cladding
It is advisable to install plasterboard on a wooden frame when covering walls if their height is more than three meters or the walls have significant roughness and poor-quality plaster coating.
- The wall is marked for the frame.
- Dangerous areas with weak plaster and unevenness are identified.
- The sheathing is installed in accordance with the measurements taken, starting with a horizontal beam, which is fixed to the floor.
- Vertical slats are mounted to the horizontal beam with a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheathing. The step between them is taken to be 600 mm.
- After the verticality of the structure has been checked with a plumb line (level), a second horizontal beam is fixed to the ceiling, to which vertical slats are attached.
- Alignment of the structure uneven floor under a horizontal beam is carried out using a lining of chipboard scraps or wood left over from the slats.
Adviсe:
- In order not to make cuts in the drywall when making sheathing near door or window openings the vertical slats are moved.
- During subsequent sheathing with sheets, there should be no joints above window or door openings.
Installing drywall on a wooden frame with your own hands is not at all difficult, even without a partner. Even easier, if the floors are level, the installation process will not be difficult.
Partitions made of plasterboard are often used for urgent redevelopment of an apartment or house, introducing something new and unusual into their design or interior. For this, they have all the advantages: their design and installation with their own hands are simple, and even an inexperienced beginner can handle this technology House master. They are cheap to install and after final finishing they are indistinguishable from the main walls of the apartment.
Such partitions also have disadvantages. But they can be dealt with. For example, insufficient mechanical strength partitions can be significantly increased if used instead of conventional drywall gypsum fiber sheets or strengthen the structure by covering the frame with several layers of plasterboard. And in wet rooms, waterproof plasterboard is used when constructing partitions.
But no matter what kind of partition you decide to build in your apartment, remember that the introduction of a new element into the layout must be agreed upon with the housing inspection authorities.
Plasterboard partitions, like plasterboard cladding walls are usually made on a wooden or metal frame. The metal frame is more reliable, more technologically advanced and when used it is possible to create complex structures, which are more difficult to do on a wooden frame. But, in turn, working with a wooden structure is more common and it will cost less.
Coniferous lumber is used for the frame of the partition. All its elements must be treated with special fire and bioprotective impregnations before installation.
The material for the frame is chosen based on the parameters of the future partition: the higher and longer it is, the larger the cross-section of the frame elements should be. For a partition frame measuring 2.5 x (4-5) m, you can take bars with a cross section of 60 x 80 mm.
The frame of the partition consists of strapping, racks, and horizontal jumpers, usually installed at the joints of drywall sheets. The design can be supplemented with more powerful racks and lintels in doorways, sheathing, etc. To improve soundproofing properties, and in country houses- and for thermal protection, the frame during the manufacturing process of the partition is filled with sound and heat-insulating materials. In temporary residences, the insulation is additionally protected with moisture and vapor barrier films.
Installation of partition frames.
This work begins with the installation of the harness. The strapping bars are attached to the floor, ceiling and walls. If the floors are wooden, the task is simplified, since ordinary nails are enough to fasten the bars. With a beam thickness of 60 mm, nails 100 mm long are sufficient. If the walls are concrete or brick plastered, the strapping is secured with dowels and nails to the wall and floor and with anchors to the ceiling.
Also read on the topic: You should start work with a ceiling beam. Having marked the boundaries of the partition on the ceiling, the beam is screwed or nailed to the ceiling, after which the location of the lower beam of the trim is marked. They do this using a plumb line, a rule with a level or more modern instruments, for example, a laser level.
When using traditional tools, at least three marks must be made along the length of the partition - at each wall and in the middle. When the marks are made, they are attached to the floor bottom beam and once again check the correctness of its location relative to the upper beam. After this, vertical strapping bars are installed on the walls, connecting the floor and ceiling bars.
Since the strapping bears the main load from the future partition, it must be fastened as securely as possible - with a fastening step of no more than 40 cm. But before fastening the beam, you need to make sure of the strength of the walls themselves. If the walls are made of not very durable materials(cellular concrete, gypsum), dowels required maximum sizes and it may be necessary to replace the dowel nails with specialized dowels that are designed for use with specific building materials. As a last resort, you can get by with wooden plugs, which are driven into the prepared holes and then screws are screwed into them. This method is old, one might say ancient, but proven.
Another way to attach the harness is using direct hangers used during installation metal frames. If the walls are strong enough and smooth (for example, concrete), then this is the most convenient and quick way timber fastenings.
Once the frame of the structure is in place and checked for verticality, it is time to install the racks. For them, a beam of the same cross-section is used as for tying the frame.
The racks are usually placed in increments of 60 cm. With this increment, each sheet of drywall (with standard width sheet 120 cm) is mounted on three racks.
There are several ways to mount racks. The simplest one is with the help of sawn wooden blocks, which are attached with screws to the vertical post itself and to the harness. More reliable way- secure the stand with metal corners, which can be easily made from direct hangers or purchased ready-made.
Horizontal lintels are also cut out from the same timber. They are fastened by passing a self-tapping screw directly through the vertical posts on one and the other side of the jumper. You can strengthen the connections with metal corners.
If the partition is provided doorway, then it is framed with additional racks and a horizontal lintel. They are made from timber of the same cross-section as the entire frame, or slightly larger. Bottom door frame forms either a framing frame, or, if there is no need for a threshold, part of it in the opening is carefully cut out, and the edges are additionally secured with dowel nails.
It is quite difficult to lay engineering communications in a partition of this type. If you still need to lay electrical wiring in it, for example, then you have to drill holes of the required diameter in the racks. It is advisable to remember that the cable is laid for safety in pipes - rigid or corrugated, or in tin boxes.
Facing partitions.
When the frame is ready, you can start covering it with plasterboard. The sheets are secured using wide-headed screws. It is first necessary to develop a cladding scheme in which the sheets will have to be cut as little as possible.
It is better to cut the sheets in such a way that they do not meet above the window and doorways- this can lead to chipping of the edges of the sheets. Where this cannot be avoided, an additional bar is placed at the joint, to which the edges of the sheets are attached.
DIY insulation installation
If the partition is supposed to use heat and sound insulation, then its installation begins after the partition is lined with plasterboard on one side.
Currently the market offers a lot insulating materials.
Both foam and mineral wool materials are suitable.
The chosen spacing when installing the studs matches the standard width of many insulating materials, which makes work easier.
It is better to glue rigid panels to inside already installed drywall. If small cavities remain between the slabs, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of foam and mineral wool materials gives a good soundproofing effect.
When covering the partition with plasterboard on the second side, it must be remembered that in order to avoid cracking of the frame posts when screwing in at the joints large quantities screws, the joints of the sheets must be separated from the joints of the already installed cladding, shifting them one step to the right or left.
It must also be remembered that between the top edge of the sheet and the ceiling there should be a gap of approximately 3-4 mm, which will protect the top edge from chipping. This gap is subsequently closed with a ceiling plinth.
Sheathing of the frame must be done sequentially from one edge. The screws must be screwed into the frame posts perpendicular to the surface of the sheathing.
This partition is the simplest, but despite this it is quite durable and has good soundproofing properties. Its disadvantage is its small thickness, which makes it difficult to lay communications inside the partition.
DIY extended partitions.
The design of partitions on a double wooden frame allows us to solve the problem of laying inside the partition engineering communications and even install water heating batteries in them. The width of such partitions is much greater than those discussed above.
To install an extended partition, two trims are installed, spaced apart at a distance sufficient to accommodate communications. All operations when installing the frame are performed in exactly the same way as in the first case. First, determine the distance by which the two frames will be spaced from each other, then install the strapping bars and vertical posts.
After one side of the partition is lined, inside it in pipes or special boxes made of galvanized steel sheet or are they all made of plastic? necessary communications. It is also possible to install a partition and radiators inside the partition, although this will require additional work. The batteries are installed closer to one of the sides, and ventilation grilles are mounted in the drywall opposite them.
It should be remembered that in places where pipes are installed hot water Styrofoam and foam rubber cannot be used as insulating material. They are used as thermal insulation in these places. mineral wool.
There is a way to increase the internal volume of the partition without installing a double frame. In this option, the framing frame is installed alone, but the vertical posts are attached to the side edges of the framing bars, as a result of which the partition becomes wider. In this case, the installation of the racks to the frame is also simplified - no transition bars or corners are needed. To improve sound insulation, rubber or foam pads are placed between the posts and trim bars.
In addition to options with single-layer hypocardboard cladding, there are designs in which sheets are laid in two layers on each side of the partition. In this case, the drywall is attached to the bars in such a way that the top sheet overlaps the joint of the bottom layer of sheets.
Having finished installing the plasterboard sheets, the seams at the joints of the sheets and the screw heads are puttied, after which they proceed to finishing the partition.
- Left - The insulation is laid after the partition is lined with plasterboard on one side.
- Right - For greater strength of the partition and ease of installation of drywall, additional sheathing is stuffed onto the frame.
You should also remember that:
- In temporary residences (for example, in a country house), the insulation in the partition should be protected with a vapor barrier film.
- Reinforced racks are installed where doors are installed.
To work with plasterboard sheets, you often need to make a frame. It is mainly made from, but sometimes it can be used environmental material- tree. Drywall is mounted on a wooden frame if there is 100% confidence that the wood will not be deformed from moisture and wooden blocks will be treated for pests.
To install drywall, use a frame made of wood and metal profiles Wood tends to change its size due to sudden changes in temperature, when high humidity air. When covering the frame with plasterboard, when it finishing, the wooden frame will breathe air that penetrates into the section between the wall and the drywall. Therefore, first of all, a wooden frame under plasterboard is mounted in a room where the walls are dry and there is no moisture. The use of wood saves space, this has always been an important point. Every person wants to leave room space.
Very often, a wooden frame is installed in private wooden houses and in houses made of logs. At correct processing wood, it will last a long time.
There is a method for attaching drywall to wooden ceiling(wall) without a frame. In this case, a number of facts should be taken into account:
- Wood quality.
- Room humidity.
- Wood processing.
Wood “breathes”, so there is a high probability that drywall will deform or burst. Therefore, before attaching to a wooden ceiling base, you should think carefully about this step.
For greater confidence in guaranteeing the wooden frame, the timber is treated with drying oil. In this case, it does not swell when exposed to moisture and does not shrink when exposed to dry and hot air.
In dry rooms it is possible to create a partition based on a wooden frame covered with plasterboard. 
Necessary tools and materials for work
To work with wooden beams, you need tools and materials, without which it is impossible to make a wooden frame with your own hands:
- An ordinary hammer.
- A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver.
- Construction knife and set of blades.
- Drill if the walls are made of concrete or brick.
- Saw.
- Meter or tape measure.
- Ruler and pencil.
- Laser level or regular.
- Dowels, wood screws and regular screws.
- Drying oil or other antiseptic solution for treating wood.
- Primer, preferably with additives.
- Insulation material – polystyrene foam, mineral wool.
- Putty, reinforced tape.
- Roller, brush.
- Set of spatulas.
Selection and preparation of wood for the frame
In order to make a frame from a wooden beam with your own hands, you need to choose the type of wood. Not every tree is suitable for this design. The best option is a needle.
Read also
Fastening heavy objects to drywall
To ensure that the tree does not succumb to influences external factors, and also to prevent pests from infesting, wooden blocks should be treated:
- Sodium fluoride. This antiseptic penetrates deeply into the wood tissue. Does not contain impurities toxic to humans, does not smell;
- Sodium silicofluoride. Soda ash is added.
It is prohibited to treat wood for residential premises with the following means: coal, shale substances. For humans, such drugs are dangerous. Before installing the frame, the tree should be in the room for several days.
Surface preparation
When starting to install a frame made of wooden blocks, you should prepare the surface. For this you will need:
Cleaning the wall from old decoration Very important point is to prepare the surface and identify wet spots. The wall must be dry and level.
Marking
Markings are applied to the prepared dry wall and a drawing is made for the future structure:
- you should measure the length and height of the wall on which the structure will be made;
- using these numbers, the perimeter of the room is calculated (the length must be multiplied by the height);
- all received numbers are transferred to a sheet of paper. First, horizontal and vertical lines are drawn on paper and on the wall along which the bars for the frame under the drywall will be laid;
- The attachment points should be noted.
With the help of the drawing and markings applied, the frame will be smooth and rigid (without movements or vibrations).
Assembling a wooden frame
Before you start attaching wooden beams with your own hands, for the future frame you need to use plumb lines to tap out points on the ceiling and floor that will form a clearly horizontal surface. Now:
Read also
Required distance between profiles under drywall
Each step taken in the manufacture of the frame should be checked using a level and compared with plumb lines. The entire structure should be checked for quality of rigidity; the “floating” structure is unreliable and will not last long.
Attaching drywall to the finished frame
The next step is to install the drywall on the wooden frame. Sheathing begins with whole sheets. The drywall is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. The fastening pitch is 30 cm.
The horizontal joints of the sheets should be staggered, that is, one sheet is flat, the second is cut by 20 cm and when attached it will be lower, the cut gypsum board should be attached at the very top. The open area should be sealed with plasterboard cut to size. edge plasterboard sheet should be exactly.
wooden beam
Finishing After the gypsum board sheathing step wooden structure , the next step is finishing the gypsum board. First you need to process and seal the seams. If a chamfer was not made when covering with plasterboard, then construction knife At the joints of the sheets, grooves should be cut, about 0.5–0.8 mm deep. These grooves should be cleared of excess cardboard and treated with primer. A brush is suitable for this type of work. The primer must be completely dry before sealing. reinforced tape
and sealing with putty. The putty should be applied in a thin layer, covering not only the seam with the tape, but also the fastening points. After the putty has dried, using sandpaper
All excess pebbles and stripes are removed. The sealed seams should be in the same plane with the entire surface (do not protrude).
After the surface has been puttyed and completely dry, the entire surface should be sanded using sandpaper.
Now plasterboard wall Based on a wooden frame, it is completely ready for further decoration.
Today any design ideas can be brought to life using such a simple and popular material as drywall. It is now used everywhere: it is used to build interior partitions, trim window slopes, they sheathe the walls inside and out, trim the ceiling, interior is also popular decorative finishing premises. There are several ways to cover walls with plasterboard: frameless joints and the use of a supporting frame. Most often for wooden surfaces the second method is used, and wood is chosen as the frame material.
To ensure that covering walls with plasterboard does not cause problems and pleases the eye for a long time, a number of very important points should be taken into account before starting work.
Features of wooden frame:
- First of all, you need to know that if you decide to install drywall on a frame made of wooden blocks, then you need to pay attention to the characteristics of the room in which the work will be carried out. Remember that humidity has a detrimental effect on a frame made of wooden slats.
- Carefully inspect the beams before purchasing: they must be free of cracks, chips and other damage.
- The wood from which the slats and beams are made must comply with the standards fire safety.
- Before work, the wood must be impregnated with an antiseptic composition: this will increase its service life. It can be anything, but more often it is recommended to use sodium fluoride.
We install drywall on wooden slats: advantages of the solution
Despite the fact that many builders prefer metal as a base for plasterboard structures, wood also has its obvious advantages, which make a wooden frame a worthy competitor to its metal counterpart!
Advantages of a wooden frame over a metal one:
- Availability of material and its low cost.
- High speed of construction.
- Environmentally friendly.
- Easy to use.
Before you start working with wood, the slats will need to be left for several days inside the room where the installation will be carried out to acclimatize.
Finishing walls in a wooden house with plasterboard: preparation for work
In any construction business you cannot do without special tools. To ensure the job goes smoothly, purchase everything you need in advance. What you need when working with drywall is listed below.
Tools:
- Drill or screwdriver;
- Hacksaw or jigsaw;
- Roulette;
- Marker or crayon.
Materials:
- Wooden slats and bars;
- Self-tapping screws;
- Metal corners.
Any Finishing work begin, first of all, with cleaning work surfaces.
The first thing you need to do is remove the old coating from the walls, the remnants of insulation and sound insulation - in short, any objects that may interfere with the work process.
Before work, the walls must be coated with a special primer to prevent the appearance of fungi and mold.
How to sheathe the inside of a wooden house with plasterboard: making a frame
When the walls are ready for work, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame itself from wooden beams.
We remind you that the slats must be pre-treated with an antiseptic, which will prevent rotting and destruction of the material.
A few tips before work:
- The distance between the bars should be 40-60 cm.
- The width of the slats themselves should be about 3-5 cm, but it should be taken into account that in the places where the plasterboard sheets join each other, the thickness should not be less than 8 cm.
- It is better to fasten the slats directly to the wooden wall and to each other. Self-tapping screws are perfect for these purposes.
The assembly of the frame itself should begin with fastening solid beams along the walls and ceiling. After this, you can begin installing the slats, which will be located vertically. Next, we attach additional horizontal short slats between the vertical beams. The parts of the frame can be fastened together with construction corners and overlays, this will give it additional stability.
When carrying out work, vertical and horizontal slats must be installed strictly level!
After this, if necessary, you will need to align the frame with the wooden wall. This is done as follows: bars are placed in the right places required thickness. After the installation of the frame is completed, you can begin attaching sheets of drywall to the resulting slats and beams.
Plasterboard walls in a wooden house: preparing the material
- The edges of the drywall sheets should be in the middle of the spacers.
- If necessary, use an intermediate profile.
When leveling the walls, monitor the distance between the screws: it should not exceed 25-30 cm.
Processing a wall or partition made of plasterboard in a wooden house
After the installation is completed, the connections between the sheets of drywall and the holes from the screw heads should be processed.
For this we need:
- Putty knife;
- Special putty;
- Reinforced tape or mesh;
- Electric drill with a nozzle for stirring putty.
You need to start work by preparing the putty mixture. We recommend using a special putty to seal the seams. Also choose a spatula that is convenient for work. It should have a flexible blade and a comfortable handle.
Apply the finished mixture with a spatula to the drywall seams, as if pressing it between them, then cut a piece of tape the right size and glue it onto the finished seam. Process the remaining seams and joints in the same way. To fill the hole from self-tapping screws on drywall, you need to apply a layer of putty to the desired place, smoothing it in different directions. After carrying out all the necessary processes, you can, if you wish, prepare the wall finished with plasterboard for further work. There can be a lot of finishing options, it all depends on your desire, imagination and capabilities.
How to cover walls with plasterboard with your own hands (video)
Practice shows that if you adhere to certain rules and technologies for plasterboard covering wooden walls, the work will not take much time and will not be difficult. In addition, when installing drywall in timber house using a wooden frame with your own hands, you significantly save the family budget.
Interior finishing of a wooden house with plasterboard (photo of the process)
For working with drywall use various materials. The most common method of constructing profile metal frames, however, wooden structures can also be found quite often.
Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It is worth saying that wood is susceptible to climatic influences, biological corrosion and is a fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.
Installation of drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.
Wood preparation
Physical properties
The frame for plasterboard is made from high-quality coniferous wood.
Making a frame for drywall from wood coniferous. Timber of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of cladding.
Main physical characteristics:
- Humidity from 12 to 18%;
- For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, use timber with a section of 60x50 mm for risers and 60x40 mm for sheathing;
- For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, use timber with a section of 60×50 mm for risers and sheathing, and depending on the height, use different thickness GKL: for a height of 2.8 – 3 meters - 2×12.5 mm, 3.3 – 3.6 meters - 2×14 mm, 3.6 – 3.9 meters - 2×16 mm, 3.9 – 4.2 meters - 2×18 mm;
- The step between risers in all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
- Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
- Connections using nails, tenons and self-tapping screws are allowed, with tenons being the most preferred, as they create a rigid and durable connection;
- The thickness of mineral wool sound insulation should be from 50 to 60 mm;
- Wall thickness can range from 85 to 132 mm;
- The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.
Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie for several days in the room where it is intended to be installed in order to acclimatize.
You should use high-quality lumber that meets the requirements for humidity and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates about the treatment of the material with fire retardants and the passage of relevant examinations by authorized bodies.
Chemical treatment
Antiseptic treatment is a condition for long service life of lumber.
Except fire treatment the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.
This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological factors risk, namely:
- Fungal and mold microorganisms. Trees can serve as a breeding ground for the mycelium of a number of molds and other fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and destroyed;
- Biological decay. Wood - organic material, which is subject to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
- Carpenter insects. There are many known insects that feed on wood and render it unusable.
- Rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.
Pests can ruin wood in a short time.
Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.
It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The maximum solubility is 3.5 – 4%.
Sodium fluoride penetrates well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode the metal, has no odor and is not toxic to humans. Quite a strong antiseptic.
An example of wood damage by fungal mycelium.
Sodium fluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it into pure sodium fluoride.
The use of oily antiseptics in residential premises is unacceptable:
- creosote,
- coal,
- shale,
- anthracene oils.
These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the house.
Installation of a wooden frame under plasterboard
Tracing the lines connecting the partition to the walls
To draw lines, use the 3 or 4 meter rule.
Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply put, marking the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also the article How to build a partition from plasterboard: features.)
To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and step back from it by the width of the gypsum board sheet.
It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to move it plumb down the wall. To do this, hammer a nail into a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.
A centered weight with an axis indicator should be used as a plumb line.
We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.
This can be done by constructing the so-called " Egyptian triangle»: right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where the 3rd and 4th correspond to the legs, and the 5th to the hypotenuse.
In this case, we place one leg along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of 3. Next, from the bottom point we build an arc of a circle in the direction perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.
Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build a circular arc with a radius that is a multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.
By connecting the intersection point of these arcs with the original lower point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.
In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. Using a level or plumb line, move this point to the ceiling. We connect the lower and upper points and get the third line. (See also the article Drywall niches in the wall: how to make.)
Next, we connect two along the ceiling top points on the walls and we get the fourth and final line. Thus, we must get a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.
Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can use a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.
Frame installation
Wooden frame for plasterboard partition.
As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical as well as horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.
To do this, bars should be secured along the lines that we drew along the walls and ceiling. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or tenons to ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.
If the building is made of stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use direct hangers or brackets.
The Knauf bracket can be used to attach beams to the wall.
We attach solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located near the wall, then the lower beam will be solid and located on one side of the opening.
So, we attach all the bars and use an impact drill with a concrete drill to drill holes in the walls and ceiling.
Doorway
The doorway is formed by double risers.
When the frame is ready, we proceed to installing the doorway.
Racks
The racks should be installed strictly vertically.
To determine the location of the lintel (vertical, which is above the opening), we apply a sheet of plasterboard that will be at the doorway, and in place of its edge we place the lintel so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.
Advice!
To connect beams it is better to use metal corners and metal plates intended for assembling rafter systems.
These mounts are reliable and designed to withstand significant loads.
Each part must be checked for level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be strictly horizontal.
You should also try to position the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.
All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame can be easily done with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, preferably a technically competent or experienced person.
The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.
The work of covering the frame with gypsum board sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.
It should also be noted that the price of the profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive, so think carefully.
Tool
For work you will need standard set wood tool.
So, you will most likely need a set like this:
If you don't have impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at a construction supermarket. Also do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for sound insulation.
You can use thick mats so as not to lay the wool in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a mesh or other base that prevents the material from caking.
Conclusion
Assembling a wooden frame for gypsum boards is a simple job and does not require special skills. This instruction gives general idea, for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and subtleties of assembling the structure.
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