How to make a metal tile roof. Installation of metal tiles with your own hands. How to properly install cornice strips and lower valleys

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

Drawings and diagrams of a metal roof

Lathing

For a secure fit roofing covering you will need to prepare a strong and reliable sheathing. It consists of wooden boards, determines the slope of the roof. For optimal precipitation removal, it is recommended to install rafters with an angle of more than 14-15 degrees. Additional jumpers must be installed between the three outer boards. This will give the gable roof structure greater strength and protect it from strong gusts of wind.

The next step is laying the vapor-waterproofing material. Izospan vapor barrier has proven itself quite well. The material allows you to really high-quality installation roofs made of metal tiles, eliminating the accumulation of moisture under the roof and the destruction of wood elements.

Before installing the counter-lattice, you need to prepare the bars and boards to be used. It will be necessary to coat the elements with an antiseptic to maximize service life. The beams are then attached directly to the rafters.

Step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles

You should begin installing metal tiles after installing the brackets. They are leveled and attached to the bottom board.

Gutters are installed on the brackets, and a drip line is mounted.

The drip tray is closed with waterproofing.

1. The first sheet of metal roofing is lifted (work starts from the edge) and fixed at the top.

2. The sheet is screwed to the boards using roofing screws (along the entire length and width).

3. The second sheet is lifted, it is overlapped with the first (an overlap of 1 strip is enough). Fixed in a similar way.

4. The remaining sheets are laid, right up to the edge of the roof.

5. Work according to similar instructions is performed for the second side of the roof.

The next step is to install the ridge.

To position it evenly, it is necessary to stretch a thread between the gables.

Completion of work

In addition to information on how to install a metal roof, the contractor must remember the need to properly close the end walls of the roof. For work you will need to use OSB boards. They are lightweight and optimally suited for construction frame house. The slabs must be installed with inside- attic space.

Initially, the contractor will need to take measurements and make markings on the slab according to which it will be trimmed. The side parts are prepared first. triangular shape. After their installation, the lower and upper parts are adjusted. It is important to consider that you need to leave a hole in the attic for subsequent window installation. Once the last pieces of the slabs have been installed, the gable roof assembly is completed. For a detailed study of all the described stages, from attaching the insulating layer to closing the end walls, it is recommended to additionally view the attached photo and video tips.

DIY metal tile installation video


Metal tiles are the most popular roofing material, successfully combining not only reliability and durability, but also the aesthetic perception of the structure. Installation of metal roofing requires strict adherence to work technology.

When the installation of the metal tile roof is completed, remove construction debris with a soft brush and treat the cut areas and scratches with spray paint.

From workwear you will need:

  • gloves;
  • protective glasses;
  • shoes with soft soles.

The tools you need to prepare are:

  • screwdriver;
  • construction stapler;
  • hammer;
  • tape measure with rag tape;
  • jigsaw;
  • a hacksaw with fine teeth;
  • metal scissors, manual or electric nibblers;
  • hand-held circular saw with carbide cutting elements.

Attention: when working with metal tiles, it is prohibited to use a grinder or any cutting devices with abrasive cutting elements, as this leads to burnout and peeling of the protective polymer layer of the sheet!

Otherwise, you not only reduce the performance properties of the roof, but also automatically lose the warranty of the metal tile manufacturer.

Taking measurements and calculating materials

From metal tiles

A metal tile sheet has an upper and lower cut, that is, the distance from the corresponding edge of the sheet to the crest of the wave, usually equal to 50mm. The area of ​​the waves without taking into account the upper and lower cuts is usable area leaf. To calculate the number of horizontal rows of sheets required, it is necessary to divide the longest length of the slope along the ridge or along the eaves by the useful width of the sheet, taking into account the overlap in one wave. The number of sheets per row can be calculated by dividing the total length of sheets in the row by the usable length of the sheet. total length sheets is equal to the length of the slope from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the overhang of 40-50mm. At the junctions of slopes, valleys, and inclined ridges, the length should completely cover all slopes.

When choosing the length of the sheet, keep in mind that at short lengths the coefficient of expansion of the metal is less, and accordingly, the tension of the metal and the likelihood of the screws breaking off, the holes becoming loose and the metal being destroyed in these places are less. The length of a metal tile sheet recommended by experts is 4-4.5 m.

To minimize waste, before purchasing metal tiles, make a drawing of the roof, lay out the sheets according to the resulting diagram, taking into account the joints so that the waves form a single sheet over the entire roof area.

When calculating the number of waterproofing rolls, the total roof area is divided by the covered area of ​​the roll, taking into account overlaps of 15-20 cm.

When calculating the amount of insulation, the total roof area is multiplied by 0.2 m (recommended insulation thickness).

When calculating additional elements, it is necessary to take into account the horizontal overlap of 10 cm (for the lower valley - 30 cm).

The number of self-tapping screws is planned based on the consumption rate of 8 pieces per 1m2 of metal tiles/1 linear meter of additional elements.

All calculations are rounded up.

Rules for the construction of a rafter system

Scheme of a hanging rafter system for a gable roof.

When planning the rafter system, take into account the features of the roof shape, wind and snow load. For a metal roof, experts recommend a distance between rafters of 600-900mm. Suitable as a material for rafters tree species with humidity no more than 18-22%. Everything in advance wooden elements The rafter structure, including the sheathing and additional reinforcing strips, must be treated with fire-fighting and antiseptic compounds.

If it is planned to insulate the roof, to create additional inter-rafter ventilation, holes with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm are drilled in the upper side part of the rafters in increments of 30 cm.

An old rafter structure can also form the basis for a metal roof.

Before erecting a rafter system (including if it will be done on an old roof), make sure that the roof is square by comparing the lengths of the slopes along the diagonals, check the horizontality of the cornice, ridge, and kinks. Installation of rafters is carried out taking into account the identified errors.

By building regulations- 14°. In snowy winters and rainy climates, the recommended tilt angle is 20-30°.

Installation of cornice and front boards, filing of cornice

Typically, roof installation requires the presence of either a cornice or a fascia board.

Options for tile roofing units.

The cornice board enhances the rigidity of the structure and is attached to special grooves cut into the rafters to avoid increasing the height of the rafter structure. If the installation of the drain involves the use of long hooks, it is necessary to cut out the corresponding grooves for them on the eaves board. The installation of long hooks is carried out before installing the metal tiles. Short hooks are usually used if the installation of metal tiles is completed. They are attached to front board, which is nailed to the end of the rafters. This element performs reinforcing and protective functions.

To hem the cornice, a block is placed horizontally on the wall at the level of the lower edge of the front board. Then, between it and the front board, a sheathing is made in the form of transverse bars, onto which a lining material is then attached (corrugated sheeting, siding or soffits matching the color and material of the metal tile).

The basic rule when filing the cornice is to ensure free flow of air into the under-roof space due to ventilation gaps. The recommended ratio of the total areas of ventilation gaps and the roof is 1/100, the distribution of gaps along the roof is carried out in proportion to the areas of its individual elements.

Ventilation gaps are provided either between the sheathing panels (with the exception of soffits that have perforations), or one continuous gap is left between the wall and the outer sheathing panel. To prevent birds and insects from entering the under-roof space, the gaps are closed with a grid with small cells.

When laying waterproofing, it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows.

The waterproofing film protects the under-roof space from the penetration of moisture and dirt, while being vapor permeable. It is prohibited to use bitumen-based waterproofing material when installing a metal tile roof!

If it is necessary to ensure unhindered through passage of air flows from the eaves to the ventilated seal of the roof ridge due to ventilation gaps between the metal tiles and waterproofing, as well as between the waterproofing and insulation (double-circuit ventilation).

The waterproofing film is rolled out, without turning over, from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap (at least 150 mm, and at the junction of the slopes - at least 200 mm) and fastened with a construction stapler. Overlapping areas must be insulated with a special adhesive tape. Please ensure that the overlaps occur on the wooden elements of the rafter structure and sheathing.

To prevent tension and breakage of the film due to a decrease in its size due to the cold and the “play” of the rafters, it is necessary to lay it with a sag of 10-20 mm along the edge of the rafter legs. If you use anti-condensation or classic type waterproofing, you need double-circuit ventilation with a gap of 30-50 mm in each circuit. When using superdiffusion membranes, single-circuit ventilation is sufficient - between the membrane and the metal tile.

The waterproofing layer should protrude 200mm beyond the wall line and cover the end boards at the ends. The overlap on the walls of roof elements such as stoves and ventilation pipes should be at least 50mm with an additional layer laid around.

Installation of sheathing, installation of the lower valley

For a roof with an inter-rafter pitch of 900mm, boards with a section of 30x100mm are suitable for lathing, and with a pitch of 600mm - with a section of 25x100mm. If the distance between the rafters increases when installing the sheathing, transverse boards of a larger section are used - 50x100mm or 50x150mm. The cross-sectional height of the lowest (initial) lathing plank should be greater than the height of the remaining planks by the height of the sheet wave, since the top of the metal tile step rests on it. It is attached strictly parallel to the cornice. The second lathing is attached with a pitch of 280mm, and all subsequent ones with a pitch of 350mm.

The place where the ridge strip is attached must be reinforced with two additional strips with a pitch of 50mm. The thickness of the ridge board should be 10-15mm greater than the thickness of the other sheathing boards to create a ventilation gap.

A continuous sheathing is made around the protruding roof elements. At the junction of the slopes (valleys), the sheathing should also be continuous at a distance of 300 mm from the axis in both directions and coincide in level with the rest of the sheathing. Waterproofing is laid along the gutter formed by the boards, on top of which the valley is secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 300 mm from each other. The overlap at the junction of the valleys should not be less than 100mm. The lower valley should extend onto the cornice board.

Installation of metal tile sheets

Installation diagram of metal tile sheets.

Lifting sheets of metal tiles onto the roof is carried out using ropes along two guide beams fastened with transverse boards. During the installation process, walking on metal tiles is allowed only in places where the wave deflects and only along the contour of the sheathing.

Each sheet of metal tile has a capillary groove for water drainage, which is covered with the next sheet during installation. Usually they start laying from the side where the sheet does not need to be cut. Sheets can be mounted from left to right, or vice versa, overlapping in one wave, closing the capillary groove on the left side of the sheet.

Basic rules for laying metal tiles

  1. Docking “along the waves” to protect the roof from side winds. The screws at the joining point are screwed into the crest of the joining wave just below the stamping line. First of all, the longitudinal joints are tightened.
  2. Docking “in rows” with fastening with self-tapping screws in each wave.
  3. Regardless of how geometrically complex the roof is, all sheets of metal tiles are aligned strictly along the eaves line with an overhang of 45-50mm. The sheets to be joined should first be connected to each other, only slightly “grabbing” the upper edge of each to the sheathing with one self-tapping screw. Only after making sure that the rectangle is correctly placed on the slope should you screw in the remaining screws and finally secure the joined row.

Roofing screws with EPDM gasket and a protective layer to match the roof of standard sizes 4.8x28mm are used. Screwing is carried out in places where the sheet adheres to the sheathing into the base of the wave perpendicular to the sheathing until the gasket is slightly compressed; steel shavings are removed with a brush with soft bristles.

The sheets are attached to the initial lathing strip above the step through a wave, and to subsequent battens - through a longitudinal wave into every second transverse wave as close as possible to the stamping line. Sheets from the side of the end board are attached to each wave. The ridge strip is attached to the metal tile at the crest of the wave with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 800 mm.

The thickening point formed when four sheets are joined is removed either by cutting off part of the corner or by slightly straightening the capillary groove.

Installation of the end strip, upper valley and abutment strips

The waterproofing layer is laid on the end board, and its edge is covered with an end strip, which is attached to the end board with self-tapping screws from the cornice to the ridge with a pitch of 350 mm and an overlap of 100 mm.

The end strip is attached in such a way as to overlap the upper crest of the wave. If during the installation process it turns out that the bottom ridge falls on the pediment, you can bend the edges of the sheet upward.

When installing the upper valley, follow the basic rule - the screws are screwed in in such a way as to prevent them from passing through the middle of the lower valley. Otherwise, the waterproofing layer will be damaged. A self-expanding sealant is laid between the valley (junction strips) and the metal tile.

Installation of ridge strip and snow guard

The waterproofing layer along the entire ridge space must have a gap of at least 50mm for unhindered evaporation of moisture. A sealant must be placed in the places where the ventilation holes are located. The ridge strip should be mounted with an overlap of 100 mm from the end onto the end strips with an edge protrusion of 20-30 mm by attaching it to the upper ridge and the sheathing through the wave. To prevent snow from blowing under the ridge, an aeroroller is installed between the sheets of metal tiles and the ridge strip, and the ends are closed with plugs.

To prevent an avalanche of snow from the roof, it is necessary. Even at the stage of installing the sheathing, provide supports in the intended places of fastening of this element by placing special bars under the crest of the wave. carried out parallel to the cornice with a metal tile sheet fastened under the second transverse step.

Metal roofing also needs to be grounded to ensure the safety of the entire structure.

When the metal tiles are finished, remove any construction debris with a soft brush and treat any cuts or scratches with spray paint. After 3 months of roof operation, check the condition of the screws and, if necessary, tighten any loose ones.

Metal tiles are one of the popular roofing materials. This is due to its good performance properties, accessibility and the ability to install it yourself.

Pros and cons of metal roofing

Most often, metal tiles are used for the roof of a private house, since this roofing material has many advantages:


 Metal tiles are a durable and attractive roofing material

But metal tiles also have one significant drawback - noise during rain and hail. Therefore, in roofing pie residential buildings must include a layer of sound insulation (for example, polystyrene). This role can also be played by a double layer of insulation or metal tiles with a special soundproofing coating.


 Layers of insulation under metal tiles do a good job of suppressing external noise

Installation of insulated and non-insulated roofs

Metal tiles can be used to cover a private home and any outbuilding. The roof of residential buildings is always insulated. The roofing pie of an insulated residential attic has greatest number layers:

  • metal tiles - performs the protective function of the structure;
  • sound insulation - dampens vibration and noise due to external influences on metal sheets;
  • sheathing - the place where the roof is attached;
  • counter-lattice - provides ventilation gap, prevents condensation from forming;
  • waterproofing - protects the insulation from moisture;
  • thermal insulation - retains heat inside the living space;
  • rafter system;
  • vapor barrier - prevents the penetration of moisture from inside the room;
  • internal lining.

 When arranging a roofing pie for metal tiles, it is better not to save money so that the roof turns out to be of high quality and lasts a long time

On an outbuilding or summer unheated garden house The design of a roofing pie for metal tiles is much simpler:

  • metal tiles;
  • sheathing;
  • counter-lattice;
  • waterproofing;
  • rafter system.

 Metal tiles are good for roofing outbuildings, sunshades, garages and bathhouses.

Installation of metal roofing

You can cover the roof with metal tiles yourself, if you study the instructions in advance, calculate the material and prepare the necessary tools.


 Before work, it is important to remember the basic rules for installing metal tiles on the roof

Required Tools

To lay metal tiles on the roof you will need:


You will also need a sturdy ladder. For installation work at low altitudes outbuildings It's better to use a stepladder. And to move along the roof of the building, you need to secure a wooden ladder to the ridge strip.


 For safety and ease of installation of metal tiles, ladders attached to the top of the roof are used.

Calculation of materials

The metal tile sheet has two widths:

  • total (1180 mm);
  • useful (1100 mm) - the edges are not counted, since the sheets overlap each other.

When making calculations, the value of the usable width is used.


 If desired, you can order material from the manufacturer according to your own dimensions, so as not to cut the sheets later

For determining required quantity material, you need to measure the roof and calculate:

  1. How many rows will there be? To do this, divide the width of the slope (along the eaves or ridge) by the usable width of the metal tile sheet. For example, 5 m: 1.1 m = 4.5. Round the resulting number to 5 rows.
  2. How many sheets are there in a row? To do this, the height of the slope must be divided by the length of the metal tile sheet ( standard sheet 2.5 m). For example, 3.5 m: 2.5 m = 1.4. Round up to 2 pieces. If desired, you can order the length of the sheets equal to the height of the slope.
  3. Quantity of material. It turns out: for one slope you need 5 * 2 = 10 sheets, and for two - 20 sheets.

 The color of the screw head for attaching metal tiles to the sheathing can be matched to the color of the roofing material

When choosing self-tapping screws, you need to pay attention to:

  • distance between turns - screws with long distance between the turns are suitable for attaching metal tiles to wooden beams;
  • tip - self-tapping screws with a sharp tip secure the metal tile to the metal base;
  • length - long screws are suitable for fixing additional elements, short ones - for connecting sheets and fastening metal tiles to the sheathing (2.8 cm);
  • hat shape.

Technology of stuffing lathing under metal sheets

The weight of metal tiles is light, so a special base for it is not required. You just need to nail the sheathing to the rafter system.


 You need to fill the sheathing under the metal tiles exactly according to the markings

It is important to correctly determine the step of laying the boards. The distance between the first and second boards should be 25–35 cm (depending on the distance between the bends of the sheet of a particular model of metal tile), then the step increases by 5 cm and is kept constant.


 The sheathing pitch must correspond to the wave pitch of the metal tiles

IN problem areas(placement of valleys, junction of metal tiles to pipes and near windows) the sheathing is made continuous.

Technology of laying metal tiles on the roof

Typically, metal sheets begin to be laid from the right edge of the rectangular roof slope. Then each subsequent sheet is laid on the previous one. If you move in the opposite direction, then each subsequent sheet is placed under the previous one. If the slope is triangular in shape, then the first sheet is placed in the center of the slope (where its height is greatest). And the rest are already attached to it on both sides. The installation itself is performed in the following sequence:

  1. The first row of metal tiles is laid. At the same time, you should not immediately securely fix the sheets. It’s better to grab a little in one place, align them relative to each other and the edge of the slope. The first row should hang 5 cm from the eaves.


    You can start work either from the left side or from the right

  2. Fix the metal tiles. It is recommended to use only high-quality fasteners, since the service life of the roof directly depends on this. You need to place the screws through the wave.


    The fasteners must be placed through the wave, screwed tightly, but do not pinch the O-ring

  3. At the joint, part of the corner is cut off to remove the seal. It is possible to straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.


    If you need to move along metal tiles, then you can only step on the lower part of the wave

  4. Repeat the process for the second and subsequent rows.

    Eat different variants laying metal tiles in two rows, so after studying the installation principle, you can choose more convenient way for a specific roof

  5. Fix the end strips. Lay them with an overlap of 2 cm.

When working with metal sheets, you need to follow some rules:

  • move along the roof carefully, in comfortable shoes, step only on the lower part of the wave;
  • Immediately paint the cut area with special paint. It is prohibited to cut metal tiles with a grinder, as the protective coating is damaged;
  • After installation, remove the protective film from the surface of the material: it will not look aesthetically pleasing if it crumbles under the influence of sunlight.

Video: installation of metal tiles with step-by-step instructions

Installation of roof ridge

The ridge is made of the same material as the roofing. Its installation is carried out as follows:


If the slope angle is 45°, before installing the ridge, you need to check its compatibility with the roof similar design. Otherwise, there is a risk of moisture penetrating into the under-roof space, which will lead to complete replacement roofs.

Video: how to install a skate yourself

Installation of the valley

If the roof has a complex shape, then a valley is placed at the junction of two slopes.


 First, the lower valley is attached, then the roofing covering is installed, after which the joint is closed with the upper valley

Its installation must be carried out in accordance with the technology:


Video: internal structure of the valley

Pipe finishing

Special aprons are used to finish the exit points of heating or ventilation pipes. Installation is carried out as follows:


Video: how to properly bypass a pipe

Grounding

Using metal sheets as roofing material, it is worth thinking about arranging grounding. To do this, you can use a pin electrode or metal pipes(natural grounding). But not pipes with flammable liquids, sewer and central heating.


 A metal roof needs to be grounded to avoid problems during a thunderstorm.

The cross section of the electrode pin should be 50 mm 2 or more, and the thickness of the steel strips should be from 4 mm. A lightning rod is mounted on the roof: a steel rod 12 mm thick and 200–1500 mm long. You can use a pipe with a sealed end for it. The pin is buried in the ground and connected with galvanized steel wire with a cross-section of 6 mm or more to this lightning rod.

During a thunderstorm, the lightning rod receives an electrical discharge and transmits it to the ground

Video: budget version of a lightning rod with your own hands

Installation of snow guards

On last stage After installation, snow guards are attached to the roof. This element is mandatory if polyester-coated metal tiles were used.


 The greater the roof slope, the more snow guards will be required.

The snow guard strips should be placed in one or two rows in a checkerboard pattern. The greater the slope angle, the more planks you need to use. They can be attached to the metal tiles using the same self-tapping screws that were used to install the roof.


 Snow guards are installed for the safety of people below when the frozen mass of snow begins to fall off the roof.

Video: why and how snow guards work, rules for their installation

The service life of metal tiles depends on correct installation and compliance with maintenance rules. First of all, this concerns regular cleaning. But you need to clean the metal tiles correctly so as not to damage the protective polymer layer. The main stages of caring for a metal tile roof:

  • to remove dirt and leaves you need to use a fluffy brush;
  • if there are more serious pollution you can choose special means, intended for polymer coatings;
  • drainage system clean only with water under pressure;
  • remove snow with special tools that are not capable of damaging the material (plastic scraper).

Proper care can extend the life of metal tiles up to 50 years.

Metal tiles can become excellent protection buildings from weather phenomena. And it will last for decades, but provided that installation technology is followed, high-quality additional elements and fasteners are selected, as well as timely cleaning and repair.

For country houses and private buildings, metal roofing has become an excellent and inexpensive, but at the same time attractive option. The technical characteristics of the profile allow the roof to withstand frost, sun, water and wind. At the same time, the imitation of natural tiles noticeably improves the construction. We discuss how to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands and what features laying metal tiles entails in the article below.

Before you start installing a metal roof, the technology of which is, in principle, not complicated, you need to take into account several important requirements:

  • Thus, metal tiles should be laid on slopes with a slope angle of at least 14 degrees.
  • If the length of the roof slope is less than 6 m, then the material can be laid in continuous sheets, avoiding horizontal overlaps. If the length of the slope exceeds 6-7 m, then you will have to cut the sheets across and assemble the roof covering in two rows with horizontal overlaps, which is advisable to avoid.
  • If there is an old covering on the roof, it must be dismantled.
  • The fastening of metal tiles begins on the side opposite to the predominant wind direction in the region. This is how they assemble the roof with their own hands according to technology.
  • Installation of metal roofing (sheet fixation) is always carried out in the depressions between the waves in those places where they are adjacent to the sheathing beams.
  • In overlaps, a profile sheet is attached to each recess.
  • The very first bottom sheet The profile is fixed with self-tapping screws above the protrusion of the profile (above the imaginary tile). That is, towards yourself. Installation of such metal tiles will allow the entire roof to withstand significant wind loads.
  • The remaining profile sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws under the bend of the profile, that is, in the direction away from you. This place is the toughest in the metal tile sheet and, in addition, in this way, the fastener caps are located in the shadow of the protrusions, which means they are less noticeable from the ground.

Important: before roofing works You should measure the evenness of the roof slopes along the diagonals. If they are skewed, the roof can be leveled using sheathing, otherwise the metal tiles that are being installed will form an uneven surface.

Calculation of material for roofing work

In order to assemble a roof made of metal tiles with your own hands quickly, and most importantly without downtime, you need to correctly calculate the amount of coating. To do this, you need to measure the length of one slope and its width. The width of the overhang is divided by the useful width of the profile sheet (minus 5-10 cm for overlaps). Thus, the required number of sheets for one slope is obtained, provided that its length does not exceed 6 m. If the slope is larger, then the amount of % by which the length of the slope exceeds the 6-meter value is added to the resulting value. In this case, the metal tiles will be fastened in two horizontal rows.

The installation of a metal roof requires high-quality and precision installation lathing under it. Because the frame is the main skeleton that contributes to the durability and strength of the roof. In order for the installation of a roof under metal tiles to proceed correctly, you need to act in this step-by-step manner:

  • First, the eaves overhangs are installed along the edges of the roof rafters. They are the main element in the sheathing, since they will take on the main (fixing) load from the entire covering. The overhang is made from boards with a section of 100x50 mm. It is nailed along the edge of the rafter legs.
  • Now they cover the entire roof waterproofing material(membrane coating). Moreover, if the installation of a roof made of metal tiles passes over a complex structure (hip roof), then the waterproofing is first laid on the valleys, and then horizontal rolls of coating are rolled out along all the slopes. The joints are taped with SP1 waterproofing tape.
  • As soon as the waterproofing is laid, they begin to fix the counter-lattice. For its installation, a beam with a cross-section of 5x5 cm is used. All beams are filled strictly along the rafter legs. The resulting distance between the overhang and the counter-lattice beam is covered with a special ventilation mesh, which will prevent birds from entering the under-roof space.
  • Holders for the drainage system are installed on the mounted counter-lattice bars. Each of them must be bent using a bend so that the drain forms a slope of 3 mm for each linear meter.
  • Then we fill the beam along the eaves, which will be slightly higher than the boards of the main sheathing. Such an element will act as a fixation for the lower profile of the metal tile.
  • Along the gables, a plank with pre-applied markings is installed. The marking must have a pitch equal to the height of each tile on the profile sheet. Nails for the control cord should be driven into the markings. In this case, it is important that the markings have a protrusion of 5-7 cm for the roof overhang to be a third of the width of the drainage channel. This DIY installation will be accurate.
  • The control cord is pulled along the installed marking bars on the gables. And counter-lattice boards with a cross-section of 32x100 mm are already placed on it. The evenness of the sheathing is checked with a level.
  • Next, the marking beams are dismantled and wind boards are installed along the gables. It should rise somewhat above the boards of the main sheathing and eventually become flush with the laid metal tiles.
  • All that remains is to install the drip line and secure the pre-assembled drainage system.

Important: before installing the sheathing, all wooden elements must be treated with antiseptics and fire retardants to prevent rotting.

Advice: in places where the metal roofing tiles adjoin the pipes, in valleys and along the edge of the wind board, it is advisable to make a continuous sheathing.

Cutting and preparing coating sheets

If you do not know how to make a roof from metal tiles and at the same time want to install metal tiles with your own hands, then first of all you need to understand how roof fragments are prepared. First of all, you need to understand that in most cases the length of one sheet of coating is enough to cover the entire length of the overhang. That is, here you will have to lay the roof of metal tiles exclusively in vertical rows. If there is a need to cut material, then this is done with special electric scissors, but not with a grinder. When working with a diamond disc, the profile sheet will become very hot, which will lead to damage to the polymer protective coating a few cm down from the cut site. And when it peels off, the metal tile sheet will be subject to corrosion. In addition, sparks from cutting tool may damage the polymer on the rest of the sheet area. Therefore, this roofing technology is incorrect.

It is worth knowing that the weight of the roof is only 4-4.5 kg/m2. Therefore, the technology of installing metal roofing allows you to lift the covering of several sheets onto the roof at the same time. They are stacked and lifted to the roof along rails installed from the ground upward.

Important: if you want to cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, then remember that working in windy weather is prohibited, since the roofing sheet has a large windage. Such incorrect installation of the profile can lead to both injury to the technician and damage to the roof. This guideline should be followed to cover the roof safely.

Laying metal roofing

Important: those who do not know how to lay metal tiles with their own hands should know that before installing the roof, the roof must be grounded. Since the metal profile conducts current very well.

Advice: if metal tiles are installed according to hip roof at home, then installation of the profile begins from the upper peak of the slope on both sides. In other cases, a metal tile roof is laid from below, from right to left, according to the principle of laying standard slate. This roofingwill be durable.

  • The step-by-step instructions state that the first sheet of covering is laid end-to-end with the wind strip and the supporting eaves beam. Having grabbed the sheet with self-tapping screws in two or three places, it is carefully leveled. And only then they are tightly fixed with fasteners. For 1 m2 of roofing there should be 6-8 self-tapping screws with dense rubber washers. At the same time, along the edges of the sheathing, a profile is attached through each wave.
  • When joining sheets vertically, you need to ensure that the drip grooves overlap the next adjacent profile.
  • All screws must be screwed in using a screwdriver at low speed of the chuck.

Installation of metal tiles in the valley

If you don’t know how to cover roofs with metal tiles with your own hands in complex configurations, or cover the sloping roof of a house, then you need to lay the covering from the valley. This roof element is assembled like this:

  • On both sides of the valley, timber is placed with a distance of 10-15 cm from the corner.
  • Plastic valley strips are stuffed onto the timber with an overlap. All joints are sealed with tape. This technology for covering a roof with metal tiles will be correct.
  • And only after that the metal tiles are laid. Upon completion of work, the valleys are usually closed decorative strips in the color of the coating. Also lay them with an overlap, from bottom to top.

Advice: now you know how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles. However, you cannot do the job on your own. At least to speed up the coating workroofs made of metal tileshands take someone's help.

Did you know that even the simplest types of metal tiles can give the roof of your home an elite and modern look? After all, people who come to visit often turn their attention to her. So why not get a luxurious roof for such a low price? And if this is your plan for the near future, then in this article you can read how to lay a metal roof with your own hands step by step, its types, positive and negative sides, and much more.

Types of metal tiles and their protective coatings

When corrosion occurs on metal tiles, developers often blame manufacturers for poor quality metal, but it is worth understanding that this sheet material manufactured to standards that are subject to constant inspection by construction commissions. Therefore, the problem most likely lies elsewhere - in the protective coating. It can last either one year or a full service life.

Therefore, if you are concerned about the reliability of your roof, then you should think about purchasing materials that will more reliably protect your roofing. Today on the construction market you can find the following products:

  • Polyester . This material is universal, because it is suitable for almost all climatic zones and can withstand very wide range temperatures Maximum corrosion resistance. The price for different polyester manufacturers differs, but remains in average values. When spraying yourself, it is worth considering that the layer must be at least 25 microns
  • Matte polyester . As the name implies, this is some kind of offshoot from the standard. Its thickness is usually 35 microns. After spraying, the painted element acquires a richer appearance for which, and aesthetic values ​​increase. Matte painting can imitate natural materials. Corrosion resistance is at an average level, which is also quite good indicator. This material can withstand heat well (up to +120C o), but does not tolerate low temperatures(up to -10C o). Therefore, it is not advisable to use matte polyester in northern latitudes.

Almost 100% corrosion protection of roofing material against corrosion can be achieved by spraying a protective layer of 50 microns. Thanks to this thickness, you can also get rid of the noise of raindrops and hail. A wide temperature range (from +150C o to -90C o) will allow you to use this product anywhere. Ultraviolet rays do not affect the performance of the protective coating in any way, so if you want to protect your roof for a long time, then you should choose this thickness for spraying.

  • Pastizol . It is quite outdated material. It is mainly used in highly corrosive environments. The service life of such a protective layer is at least 20 years, has a rich appearance, which sets excellent competition modern coatings. Over time, direct sunlight does not affect the functionality and color of the protection. Relative cheapness makes this material accessible to any developer
  • Granite chips . Stone as protection is a bold idea. It is not possible to prepare such a protective coating on your own, but in the store you can find quite a wide range of such goods. They are usually based on polyurethane and granite chips in a 1:1 ratio, and of course other binders. The positive aspects of this product are: colossal resistance to physical damage, high protection from solar radiation, and withstands large temperature changes. However, not poor defense, but has a rather high price
  • The most ancient and time-tested protection is the coating of the base metal aluminum and zinc . It is believed that a coating of 20 microns is more than enough, however, there is no arguing with that average term The life of such parts is 25 years. One of the important positive qualities is low cost

Before you immediately purchase the roofing coverings you like, ask the seller what type of polymers are used as a protective coating. If the answer suits you, then you can lay your roof with the purchased material with peace of mind. Otherwise, they will push you a low-quality product, which over time will only become a reason for you to repair it.

IMPORTANT: If sound insulation is of particular importance to you, then you should apply a polyurethane coating, but if your home has two floors (residential floor and not residential attic), then you should skip this option, because then the price of the roof will be 30-40% cheaper.

Positive and negative qualities of metal roofing

Each material has its own strengths and weak sides, therefore, in order not to make mistakes, I have prepared small lists for you describing the properties of metal tiles.

And I'll start with the positive:

  • The economic benefits in relation to other types of roofing coverings are obvious. The fact is that the material being laid has a low mass, therefore, the device complex structures a rafter system is not required, which entails savings on materials and installation work. Despite being the same cheapness, the material has a fairly long service life - 50 years
  • As mentioned above, metal tiles are a relatively lightweight roofing material. Its load on the base is in the range of 3.6-5.2 kg/1m2. The use of protective layers of polyurethane will only reduce this figure, but zinc and aluminum will increase it by a whole kilogram. Never take load indicators on the Internet. This is determined individually from each seller, because each manufacturer can produce sheets containing different metal thicknesses (from 0.3 to 1.2 mm)
  • High corrosion resistance. If you want to observe the corrosion process on a newly laid roof, you will have to wait a little over 25 years. In addition, the roof is reliably protected from ultraviolet rays, moisture, and sudden temperature changes
  • Knowledge from physics lessons that metal is not a flammable material will be quite sufficient to declare metal tiles fireproof. The tiles are ideal as a fire-resistant material, which makes them head and shoulders above the same ECO roofs made of straw or other roofs using combustible materials
  • Attractive appearance. A metal roof once became an indicator of the owner's status, and this trend continues to this day. Most likely, this is due to the fact that metal is very often used on complex roofs, and they, in turn, are used only in large houses.

Due to its ease of installation, metal roofing can easily be laid with your own hands; by the way, you will learn about this process below.

After looking at everything positive traits material, one might assume that such a product has no negative aspects, but this is still not the case. And these are the sides:

  • If you do not purchase soundproofing material, you may suffer from the noise of falling drops or hail during rain. If your building is two-story or has an attic, which you are not going to equip for living quarters, then you can still tolerate this if you are on the ground floor, otherwise such annoying noise will definitely force you to take the necessary measures
  • If you make incorrect calculations, you can end up in an awkward situation when material is needed, but it is no longer available. Often this difficulty is encountered when purchasing metal tiles cut to size. It is worth understanding that a complex roof is not a simple system, and, therefore, there will be times when the cut-off part of the material is no longer suitable. As a conclusion, I can say that the installation of metal tiles generates a large amount of waste, which is a negative side
  • The smooth surface of the roof during operation can play a cruel joke on you. The fact is that when you fall out large quantities precipitation in winter period time, a situation may arise when they begin to move. As a rule, such a process does not bring anything good. After all, when snow melts from the roof of a building, people passing under it at that moment may suffer. There is a solution to this problem - the installation of snow holders and various types of fences, but this will entail additional costs, again a minus

Most developers do not strive to make an intricate structure out of a roof, quite simple but of high quality, which is why they are attracted to metal tiles, because everyone can afford such material, and installation of all structures from scratch can be carried out in shortest period time and it is about him that I will consider in the following chapters.

Calculation of material requirements

Calculating the materials required to create a good roof can be done in just 30 minutes using a pen and a piece of paper, but this is a rather frivolous task if you do not know the technological process of laying metal tiles. In this case, it is best to trust the professionals.

The calculation process begins with measuring the length of the slopes from the ridge to the very bottom. Don't forget to take into account a small overlap, which is usually 10-15cm. For this simple manipulation you will need to subtract 10cm from each sheet. As for the vertical joints, here the overlap will be already 15 cm, but the technique for determining the missing material is exactly the same. The number of rows is determined by dividing the values, where the first will be long roof, and the second is the working area of ​​the sheet (taking into account an overlap of 15 cm).

In the modern world, thanks to computers, calculating the exact number of sheets is not difficult; the error is only a couple of centimeters. This is a negligible value when compared with mental calculations.

The length of this roofing covering can reach 12 meters, which in most cases allows you to completely cover the slope with one sheet. If this is possible for you, then you will not only avoid the generation of waste, but also benefit from roof waterproofing, because the fewer joints, the less likely it is for moisture to flow into them.

To install the truss structure and its elements, you will need some additional calculations and costs for their acquisition. Please note that in addition to this, you will need to equip your roof with the necessary fences, drains around the perimeter, snow holders, etc.

As you can see, selecting the required amount of material for installing a metal roof can be done with your own hands, but this is only if you have certain knowledge. When knowledge is not enough, turn to specialists.

Installation of vapor barrier and waterproofing layers

You've probably heard that excessive moisture in the air can have a detrimental effect on the lifespan of natural materials such as wood. Therefore, in the process of laying any roofing material, you must first take care of providing some protection.

The work on installing water drainage layers will not take much time and money and will increase the service life of the entire roof by several decades. So what should you do about it?

  1. Laying a waterproofing layer. This process is most convenient to carry out when you are at the top. IN in this case- on a skate. This is where the rolls are rolled out waterproofing protection. You must understand that waterproofing should not have many holes, so it is best to attach it to a building duct tape. Some developers even manage to use double-sided tape, but this is a dubious alternative. The sagging of the material at the cornice should be about 30 centimeters
  2. Flooring of insulation slabs. Of course, you can use non-tile material, but in general, I think the job is clear. With this work, I hope there will be no problems, and where will they come from? The only snag may be when you cannot fit the insulation board between the rafters. To do this, you will have to cut it into the necessary parts (divide by 5 centimeters more, so that during installation it can remain in place without fastening devices)
  3. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. If you decide to save money on this particular item, then you will make the stupidest mistake. Vapor barrier materials are needed to remove moisture from insulation layers. Don't ask how she can get in there. Moisture has three states of aggregation and in any case it will find a way through one of them. It is worth noting that even a low water content in insulation boards will negate all its functional qualities. The fastening elements, as a rule, are staplers

In construction, there is a term that brings all these layers together - roofing pie. The construction of this cake should be done in the absence of a strong wind, because the work is carried out with the material large area, and it can simply fly away or tear off from the base with a sharp gust of air.

IMPORTANT: As a rule, waterproofing films are made with directed sides. This means that installation can only be done on a certain side. After all, the main task of such a layer is to protect the insulation from moisture and, if necessary, remove it from the slabs.

Covering a roof with metal tiles is not difficult, the main thing is to create the necessary conditions for this - high-quality sheathing.

Do-it-yourself roof sheathing for metal tiles

In almost any field of work, everything can be done using your own strength, the main thing is practice and some knowledge. In the next paragraph I will describe to you step by step instructions How to build a roof from metal tiles, but before that you should pay attention to another important installation process - lathing.

Installation of any element requires a fairly reliable foundation. For roofing material it is sheathing. It usually consists of small blocks of wood 5x5cm. Mounted vertically to the rafters. It is worth paying attention to the device ventilation ducts between the roofing material and the waterproofing layer. 3x10cm boards are used as alternative materials: they are fastened in 0.6m increments across the rafters. The eaves overhang is equipped with slightly thicker boards, for example, 5x10cm. This is due to the greater load. Concerning opposite side, i.e. ridge, then it is upholstered with two of the same elements without a gap.

In some documents you can find certain instructions that state that the installation of a curtain rod - compulsory work. It provides decent resistance to strong gusts of wind and excessive moisture on the sheathing. Galvanized nails are used as fastening elements. Their arrangement has a checkerboard appearance, and the distance between them is 30 cm. By the way, just before starting work on constructing such a board, it is worth impregnating it with special solutions to protect it from rotting and drying it thoroughly.

There are two types of sheathing:

  • Discharged
  • Solid

The first of them is arranged along the entire perimeter of the plane. The elements of such sheathing have a certain step that should be followed. The second type looks like a solid shield. It is installed, as a rule, in places of increased loads and joining of elements, for example, valleys, places around chimneys, joints, eaves overhangs, etc. Wood screws or self-tapping screws are often used as fastening elements.

A roof structure made of metal tiles can have the following types:

  • Single-pitch
  • Gable
  • hip
  • Broken and others

As you may have guessed, this roofing material allows you to use absolutely any roof structure, perhaps with the exception of the domed one. This is good fact for manufacturers, because the relative cheapness and wide area applications do this material so popular among developers of private houses.

When everything is explained, you can answer the main question: “how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles?”

DIY metal roof

Any self-respecting man will want to get a good apartment or build his own house. If you go the second route and do everything yourself, then you should definitely absorb more information on how to cover a metal roof with your own hands. This is exactly what will be discussed in this paragraph.

Working on your own brings moral pleasure, which then develops into some pride in the result. By the way, you can see how to install a metal tile roof with your own hands in the video at the bottom of the article.

Do-it-yourself roofing with metal tiles, step-by-step instructions:

  1. Purchase of material. At this stage, according to preliminary calculations, the required amount of roofing product is purchased. It is worth choosing qualitatively, asking the seller as much as possible. Please pay Special attention to cover the material, find out what polymers it is made from protective layer and draw appropriate conclusions
  2. Upon delivery of the product to the site, it is worth carefully inspecting it for mechanical damage. After this, move the storage location closer to the installation site
  3. Next, we proceed directly to laying the roofing material itself on the prepared base. Before installation, remove the special protective film from the surface of the leaf product. The location of the first sheet will be the edge of the cornice. Its location should have a small overlap of 5-6 cm. Screws will act as fastening elements. They spin right through the metal in massive board, going along the perimeter. All measuring work is carried out using a construction tape
  4. The next sheet of roofing material is laid a little higher with an overlap of at least 5 cm and secured. Self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws are screwed in from different sides, two pieces each. We arrange two more sheets and then check the evenness of the work done
  5. Further, all work moves in an already understandable direction. Arrangement of blocks of 2-4 sheets and their subsequent calibration. Do not forget that the overlap should be at least 5cm
  6. After laying all the sheets on a plane, end strips are installed in order to protect the newly created roof from rain and wind. Their fastening is carried out in rafter legs or sheathing using long self-tapping screws. By the way, there are not only wooden end boards, but also PVC products. Their advantage is that they are not subject to corrosion and have more high protection wood from moisture
  7. Roof ridge installation. This element allows you not to align the joints of the top sheets of material; they will disappear under it. The ridge is fastened on both sides with self-tapping screws. In the resulting space, it is worth paying special attention to the waterproofing of materials, the fact is that this is where the greatest amount of moisture will accumulate
  8. The final work is finishing the chimney

That's all, the work on installing the roofing material can be said to be completed.

For convenience, all measurements and cutting of metal tiles are best done on the ground.

You should cover your roof with metal tiles yourself if you want to not only save money, but also do this work For the sake of my own pride, I hope the step-by-step instructions I wrote will help you achieve your plans.

As a conclusion, I can say that work done on your own is an activity worthy of praise, but you should not assume that without certain skills you can create high-quality and reliable roof. Contact professionals in your field if you find it difficult to carry out one or another stage.

If the text is not enough for you or you want to consolidate what you have read, then here are a few videos on the topic “how to roof a roof with metal tiles with your own hands”

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