Construction of a gable roof step by step instructions. Instructions for the construction of a gable roof with your own hands. Assembly of trusses or trusses

Rafters perform a number of significant roofing functions. They set the configuration of the future roof, perceive atmospheric loads, and hold the material. Among the rafter duties are the formation of even planes for laying the coating and providing space for the components of the roofing pie.

In order for such a valuable part of the roof to flawlessly cope with the listed tasks, information about the rules and principles of its construction is needed. The information is useful both for those who are building a gable roof truss system with their own hands, and for those who decide to resort to the services of a hired team of builders.

In the device of the truss frame for pitched roofs, wooden and metal beams are used. The starting material for the first option is a board, log, beam.

The second is constructed from rolled metal: a channel, a profile pipe, an I-beam, a corner. There are combined structures with steel most loaded parts and wood elements in less critical areas.

In addition to the "iron" strength, the metal has a lot of disadvantages. These include heat engineering qualities that do not satisfy the owners of residential buildings. Disappointing need for the use of welded joints. Most often, industrial buildings are equipped with steel rafters, less often private change houses assembled from metal modules.

In business independent construction roof structures for private houses, wood is a priority. It is easy to work with it, it is lighter, “warmer”, more attractive in terms of environmental criteria. In addition, nodal connections do not require welding machine and welding skills.

Rafters - a fundamental element

The main "player" of the frame for the construction of the roof is the rafter, among the roofers called the rafter leg. Beds, braces, headstocks, girders, puffs, even Mauerlat may or may not be used depending on the architectural complexity and dimensions of the roof.

The rafters used in the construction of the gable roof frame are divided into:

• Layered rafter legs, both heels of which have reliable structural supports under them. The lower edge of the layered rafter rests on the Mauerlat or on the ceiling crown of the log house. The support for the upper edge can be a mirror analogue of an adjacent rafter or a run, which is a beam horizontally laid under the ridge. In the first case, the truss system is called spacer, in the second, non-spacer.
• hanging rafters, the top of which rests against each other, and the bottom is based on an additional beam - puff. The latter connects the two lower heels of adjacent rafter legs, resulting in a triangular module called a truss truss. The tightening dampens the tensile processes, so that only a vertically directed load acts on the walls. The design with hanging rafters, although it is spacer, does not transfer the spacer itself to the walls.

In accordance with the technological specifics of the rafter legs, the structures constructed from them are divided into layered and hanging. For structural stability, they are equipped with struts and additional racks.

For the arrangement of supports for the top of the layered rafters, beds and girders are mounted. In reality, the truss structure is much more complicated than the elementary patterns described.

Note that the formation of a gable roof frame can generally be carried out without a truss structure. In such situations, the alleged planes of the slopes are formed by slegs - beams laid directly on the bearing gables.

However, we are now interested in a specific device truss system gable roof, and it can be used as hanging or layered rafters, or a combination of both types.

Subtleties of fastening rafter legs

The rafter system is fastened to brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete walls through the mauerlat, which in turn is fixed with anchors.

Between the Mauerlat, which is a wooden frame, and the walls of these materials, a waterproofing layer of roofing material, waterproofing, etc. is necessarily laid.

The top of the brick walls is sometimes specially laid out so that something like a low parapet is obtained along the outer perimeter. So it is necessary that the Mauerlat placed inside the parapet and the walls do not burst the rafter legs.

The rafters of the frame of the roofs of wooden houses rest on the upper crown or on the ceiling beams. The connection in all cases is made by cutting and duplicated with nails, bolts, metal or wooden plates.

How to do without furious calculations?

It is highly desirable that the cross section and linear dimensions of the wooden beams be determined by the project. The designer will give clear calculation justifications geometric parameters boards or timber, taking into account the entire range of loads and weather conditions. If available home master there is no design development, his path lies on the construction site of a house with a similar roof structure.

You can ignore the number of storeys of the building under construction. It is easier and more correct to find out the required dimensions from the foreman than to find them out from the owners of a shaky unauthorized construction. After all, the foreman is in the hands of documentation with a clear calculation of the loads per 1 m² of roof in a particular region.

The installation step of the rafters determines the type and weight of the roofing. The heavier it is, the smaller the distance between the rafter legs should be. For laying clay tiles, for example, the optimal distance between the rafters will be 0.6-0.7 m, and for a profiled sheet, 1.5-2.0 m is acceptable.

However, even if the step required for the correct installation of the roof is exceeded, there is a way out. This is a reinforcing counter-lattice device. True, it will increase both the weight of the roof and the construction budget. Therefore, it is better to deal with the step of the rafters before the construction of the rafter system.

Craftsmen calculate the pitch of the rafters according to the design features of the building, tritely dividing the length of the ramp into equal distances. For insulated roofs, the step between the rafters is selected based on the width of the thermal insulation boards.

On our website you can find, which may also help you a lot during construction.

Rafter structures of layered type

Rafter structures of the layered type are much simpler in execution than their hanging counterparts. A justified plus of the layered scheme is to provide full ventilation, which is directly related to the longevity of the service.

Distinctive design features:

• Mandatory presence of support under the ridge heel of the rafter leg. The role of the support can be played by a run - a wooden beam resting on racks or on the inner wall of the building, or the upper end of an adjacent rafter.
• The use of Mauerlat for the construction of a truss structure on walls made of brick or artificial stone.
• The use of additional runs and racks where the rafter legs, due to the large size of the roof, require additional support points.

The minus of the scheme is the presence of structural elements that affect the layout inner space operated attic.

If the attic is cold and the organization of useful premises is not supposed to be in it, then the layered construction of the truss system for the installation of a gable roof should be preferred.

A typical sequence of work on the construction of a layered truss structure:

• First of all, we measure the height of the building, the diagonals and the horizontalness of the upper cut of the skeleton. When identifying vertical deviations of brick and concrete walls, we eliminate them cement-sand screed. Exceeding the heights of the log house we squeeze. By placing chips under the Mauerlat, vertical flaws can be dealt with if their magnitude is insignificant.
• The floor surface for laying the bed must also be leveled. He, the Mauerlat and the run must be clearly horizontal, but the location of the listed elements in the same plane is not necessary.
• We process all wooden parts of the structure before installation with fire retardants and antiseptic preparations.
• on concrete and brick walls we lay waterproofing for the installation of a Mauerlat.
• We lay the Mauerlat beam on the walls, measure its diagonals. If necessary, we slightly move the bars and turn the corners, trying to achieve the perfect geometry. Align the frame horizontally if necessary.
• We mount the Mauerlat frame. The splicing of the beams into a single frame is carried out by means of oblique cuts, the joints are duplicated with bolts.
• We fix the position of the Mauerlat. Fasteners are made either with brackets to wooden plugs laid in the wall ahead of time, or with anchor bolts.
• We mark the position of the bed. Its axis should recede from the Mauerlat bars at equal distances on each side. If the run will be based only on racks without lying down, the marking procedure is carried out only for these columns.
• We install the bed on a two-layer waterproofing. We fasten it to the base with anchor bolts, with inner wall connect with wire twists or staples.
• We mark the installation points of the rafter legs.
• We cut out racks according to uniform sizes, because our bed is set to the horizon. The height of the racks must take into account the dimensions of the section of the run and the bed.
• Installing racks. If provided by the project, we fix them with spacers.
• We lay the run on the racks. We check the geometry again, then install the brackets, metal plates, wooden mounting plates.
• We install a trial rafter board, mark the places of trimming on it. If the Mauerlat is set strictly to the horizon, there is no need to adjust the roof rafters in fact. The first board can be used as a template for making the rest.
• We mark the installation points of the rafters. Folk craftsmen for marking usually prepare a pair of slats, the length of which is equal to the gap between the rafters.
• According to the markup, we install the rafter legs and fasten them first at the bottom to the Mauerlat, then at the top to the run to each other. Every second rafter is screwed to the Mauerlat with a wire bundle. In wooden houses, the rafters are screwed to the second crown from the top row.

If the rafter system is done flawlessly, the layered boards are mounted in random order.

If there is no confidence in the ideal structure, then the extreme pairs of rafters are installed first. A control twine or fishing line is stretched between them, according to which the position of the newly installed rafters is adjusted.

The installation of the truss structure is completed by installing the filly, if the length of the rafter legs does not allow the formation of an overhang of the required length. By the way, for wooden buildings, the overhang should “go beyond” the contour of the building by 50 cm. If the organization of the visor is planned, separate mini-rafters are installed under it.

Another useful video about the construction of a gable truss base with your own hands:

Hanging truss systems

The hanging type of truss systems is a triangle. The two upper sides of the triangle are folded by a pair of rafters, and the puff connecting the lower heels serves as the base.

The use of tightening allows you to neutralize the effect of the thrust, therefore, only the weight of the crate, the roof, plus, depending on the season, the weight of precipitation, acts on walls with hanging truss structures.

The specifics of hanging truss systems

Characteristic features of hanging type truss structures:

• Mandatory presence of a puff, made most often of wood, less often of metal.
• The ability to refuse the use of Mauerlat. A frame made of timber will be successfully replaced by a board laid on a two-layer waterproofing.
• Installation on the walls of ready-made closed triangles - roof trusses.

To the virtues hanging circuit include space under the roof free from racks, allowing you to organize an attic without pillars and partitions. There are disadvantages.

The first of these is the limitation on the steepness of the slopes: their slope angle can be at least 1/6 of the span of a triangular truss, steeper roofs are strongly recommended. The second disadvantage is the need for thorough calculations for the competent device of cornice nodes.

Among other things, the angle of the truss truss will have to be set with jewelry accuracy, because. the axes of the connected components of the hanging truss system must intersect at a point, the projection of which must fall on the central axis of the Mauerlat or the lining board replacing it.

Subtleties of long-span hanging systems

Puff - the longest element of the hanging rafter structure. Over time, it, as is typical of all lumber, deforms and sags under the influence of its own weight.

Owners of houses with spans of 3-5m are not too concerned about this circumstance, but owners of buildings with spans of 6 meters or more should think about installing additional parts that exclude geometric changes in tightening.

To prevent sagging in the installation scheme of the truss system for a large-span gable roof, there is a very significant component. This is a pendant called a grandmother.

Most often, it is a bar attached with wooden surfs to the top of the truss truss. You should not confuse the headstock with the racks, because. its lower part should not come into contact with the puff at all. And the installation of racks as supports in hanging systems ah does not apply.

The bottom line is that the headstock, as it were, hangs on a ridge knot, and a tightening is already attached to it with the help of bolts or nailed wooden plates. Threaded or collet type clamps are used to correct slack.

Adjustment of the tightening position can be arranged in the zone of the ridge knot, and the headstock can be rigidly connected to it with a notch. Instead of a bar in non-residential attics, reinforcement can be used to manufacture the described tightening element. It is also recommended to arrange a headstock or suspension where the puff is assembled from two bars to support the connection area.

In an improved hanging system of this type, strut beams complement the headstock. The stress forces in the resulting rhombus are extinguished spontaneously due to the competent arrangement of the vector loads acting on the system.

As a result, the truss system pleases with stability with a slight and not too expensive upgrade.

Hanging type for attics

In order to increase usable space the tightening of the rafter triangles for the attic is moved closer to the ridge. A perfectly reasonable move has additional advantages: it allows you to use puffs as the basis for filing the ceiling.

It is attached to the rafters by cutting with a semi-frying pan with a duplication of a bolt. It is protected from sagging by installing a short headstock.

A noticeable drawback of the attic hanging structure is the need for accurate calculations. It is too difficult to calculate it on your own, it is better to use a ready-made project.

Which design is more cost effective?

Cost is an important argument for an independent builder. Naturally, the price of construction for both types of truss systems cannot be the same, because:

• In the construction of a layered structure for the manufacture of rafter legs, a board or beam of small section is used. Because layered rafters have two reliable supports under them, the requirements for their power are lower than in the hanging version.
• In the construction of a hanging structure, the rafters are made of thick timber. For the manufacture of puffs, a material similar in cross section is required. Even taking into account the rejection of the Mauerlat, the consumption will be significantly higher.

Saving on the grade of material will not work. For the bearing elements of both systems: rafters, purlins, beds, Mauerlat, attendants, racks, lumber of the 2nd grade is needed.

For crossbars and puffs working in tension, you will need the 1st grade. In the manufacture of less responsible wooden slips, the 3rd grade can be used. Without counting, we can say that in the construction of hanging systems, expensive material is used to a greater extent.

Hanging trusses are assembled in an open area next to the object, then transported assembled upstairs. To lift weighty triangular arches from a bar, you will need equipment, for which you will have to pay rent. And the project for complex nodes of the hanging version is also worth something.

Video instruction on the installation of a truss structure of a hanging category:

There are actually many more methods for constructing truss systems for roofs with two slopes.

We have described only the basic varieties that are actually applicable for small country houses and buildings without architectural ideas. However, the information provided is sufficient to cope with the construction of a simple truss structure.

In building your dream home, are you already at the finish line, and it's time to deal with the intricacies of the truss system? Let's just say: pleasant worries await you: calculating the angle, weight and safety factor of rafters, an agreement with a familiar craftsman or company, or harvesting everything necessary tools for independent carpentry work.

And so that tomorrow all these worries do not become a headache and you do not worry about whether this or that knot is done correctly, we have prepared this article for you. So, let's figure out how to make high-quality rafters for a gable roof with your own hands so that it is no worse than purchased ones.

• Short production time.
• Technological precision of all details.
• The same, already fitted dimensions of all structural elements.

But then be prepared for such disadvantages:

• High cost (at least twice as high as if you planed the rafters yourself).
• Delay in delivery (especially in season).
• The use of low-quality or under-dried wood (and then the roof will “lead”).

So convenience or quality? If this is not the first time for you to cut or plan something out of wood, feel free to take on the manufacture of rafters! Here's what it all looks like in real life:

Rafters in the construction world on plain language it is customary to divide the main ones, i.e. carriers, on which the roof rests, and on auxiliary ones, which are located inside the roof and serve as a support for hemming the ceiling and walls of the attic (if one is planned). The strength and reliability of the future roof depends on how accurately and correctly you calculate the truss system in advance.

The truss system of any gable roof itself consists of the following basic elements that you need to make:

• Mauerlat.
• Vertical racks.
• Crossbars.
• Rafter legs.
• Struts.
• Skate ride.

Complex roof structures with multiple elements, it is better to entrust the calculation to a professional, but with small roof private house you can handle it. To do this, you will need these simple formulas that will help you find out how thick the rafters should be, with what slope and what span:

How to draft a future roof?

The golden rule applies in the construction of roofs - measure seven times, and cut off only once. And first of all, it is important for you to understand that each rafter leg has its own individual location. Therefore, first, be sure to draw up a detailed project, and preferably in a special program. Only after that, according to your 3D model of the future roof, mark exactly where and what exactly the connections of the rafters with the Mauerlat and among themselves will be.

It is important to determine the angle of inclination of the rafters as accurately as possible and at what angle they need to make cuts. And don’t worry about how to make all these rafters for a gable roof yourself: you just need a regular machine.

Determine the angle of the roof: calculate the load

The angle of inclination of a gable roof is made from 5 ° to 90 °. But the most proven and standard option is 35 ° -40 °, where loads are most rationally distributed and building materials are consumed.

Straight slopes are built when under the roof in the future there will be only non-residential attic, main function which - ventilation and heat exchange control. But when the under-roof space is planned to be residential, attic, they initially plan the so-called broken gable roof. Its difference is that the slopes in the middle have, as it were, a kink that changes their angle to a steeper one. And for arranging the attic, and for protecting the whole house from the weather, this design is quite suitable.

Please note that most roofing materials are suitable only for slopes greater than 45°.

Fixed and variable roof loads

From the same loads depends on what step the rafters need to do for your gable roof. This table will help you choose the desired section of the rafter legs:

Indicators of rafters for deflection

Even strong-looking rafters may not be suitable for building the roof of a residential building due to the fact that they do not have enough deflection indicators. There are separate items in the section of SNiPs, which are called "Loads and Impacts".

And the easiest way to increase the strength of the rafters for deflection is to make the section larger. A little more difficult - to strengthen it with a beam, bringing its edge to the strut.

Reinforcing elements for rafters

The more racks, struts and fights - the more stability and stability the entire truss system has.

If you have suspicions or even an accurate count that simple design the roof will not withstand future loads, make additional reinforcement elements for it. Such prevention will never hurt, but it will save you from many problems. Note that it is especially disappointing when the roof of the garage falls through - right on the car. And for a residential building, such problems are not a joy.

Strengthen the rigidity of the truss structure struts, additional runs and support posts. Struts are designed to reduce the span of the rafter legs. The angle of their inclination to the horizontal is usually at least 45°.

A run is a horizontal beam, which is parallel to the ridge and is fixed on vertical posts. More on video:

Determine the type of roof: cold or warm?

And now about the concept of the attic. If you are building the roof of a bathhouse or a small master's room, it can be done using the most simplified technology - they put rafters, connected them in a ridge and covered them with sheets of roofing material. But for the roof of a residential building, where ventilation is important, this principle is indispensable. There will already be at least three levels:

1. The upper or first level of the rafters is about 200 mm.
2. The average is always equal to the height of the auxiliary rafters.
3. The third is already on the edge of the wall.

It is so convenient to lay insulation, because the roof of a residential building is distinguished by the fact that heat rises up and, in the absence of thermal insulation, the roofing is constantly heated.

Bottom line: in winter, the snow melts and slides down, freezing and accumulating even more near the cold eaves. There are a lot of problems from this: both long dangerous icicles and clogged drainage system, and the gradual destruction of the entire roof. Decide for yourself!

We determine the type of truss system: layered or hanging?

So, now is the time to think over the supporting bases for future rafters, which also need to be prepared in advance and on which many parameters of the roof itself will depend. So, the rafters are divided into layered, hanging and hybrid.

Hanging rafters are usually the lot of small and light roofs, the distance between the supports of which does not exceed 6 meters. But in buildings with a load-bearing middle wall or additional supports for a roof fortress, layered rafters are arranged. Or a combination like this:

Another difference is that the hanging truss system makes the Mauerlat work in compression, and the layered one in shear. But the main task of both layered and hanging rafters is to transfer the loads of the entire roof to the walls and foundation as evenly as possible.

We select material for rafters

So, if you have decided on future loads, it's time to pick up suitable material. As it is usually used for the manufacture of rafters:

• Wood. Solid wood, boards or glued beams.
• Lightweight metallic profile. These are galvanized steel profiles.
• Black metal. These are I-beams and steel channels.
• Heavy reinforced concrete structures for industrial construction.

Dry board: an economical option

If heavy loads are not expected on the rafter system, then make the rafters from a dry planed board with a small section. But if knee-deep snow is not uncommon in your area and the roofing material will not be easy - then some of constituent elements you will have to make glued. That's the whole difference.

It is most convenient to make elongated side rafters and diagonal rafter legs from the board. So, a board 40 mm thick, which is often used for outbuildings not suitable for the roof. Not less than 50 mm! Moreover, the longer the rafter leg is planned, the wider the board itself should be. So, rafters 6 meters long will have to be made from a board 150 mm wide, and even longer - from a board 180 mm.

For the roof of a frame house, this is really one of the most the best options!

And also the rafters from the board are the most economical, and at the same time they are almost not inferior in strength to the timber ones. It is only important to choose the right section and use high-quality material. Therefore, when buying material, be sure to take a special device for measuring wood moisture and use it. There is nothing worse than damp rafters. And it's not just about future mold: such a roof will lead and warp, because this material changes its shape when it dries. At the rafters, fasteners will fly and even the cover of your gable roof will bounce in places. In short, no problems!

But from regular board it is most convenient to splice the rafters along the length:

Durable metal: resistance to dampness

And, you will be interested to know that rafters can be made not only from wood! So, iron truss systems, which were once used exclusively for industrial construction, are returning to their former popularity today. And, note, this material for the roof has many advantages, the most valuable of which is the complete absence of fungus from dampness. The under-roof space, after all, most often “pleases” with accidental leaks.

And the work itself with such rafters during installation is no more difficult than with wooden ones - see for yourself:

Beams: the benefits of quality wood

The beam is more durable, but bad because it has big weight and in places of fastenings it is necessary to make cuts. For a log, this is not only a problem, but also some loss in the bearing capacity of such a rafter leg. But so far this material is the most popular for the manufacture of rafters.

Most of all, lumber is suitable for the manufacture of rafters, which meets the requirements of GOST 8486-86 or 2695-83. And this:

• Humidity is not more than 18%, measured with a moisture meter.
• Cracks that are not through and do not exceed half the length of the board.
• For each running meter- no more than three knots, and each of them - no more than 30 mm in diameter.

Therefore, when buying wood for rafters, be sure to check the documents from the seller that speak of product quality.

The type of wood is also important. The fewer knots and cracks on the beams, the better. Some varieties also please with good moisture resistance and resistance to decay and pests. For the roof, this is what you need. Therefore, we recommend making rafters from coniferous wood, which is rich in resin, and resin is a natural barrier against decay. But special processing is still needed.

And take into account also this fact: in the manufacture of the rafter system, the material needs to be purchased 5-7% more than necessary, because it will not always be possible to make an ideal cut of the rafter or cut of the required depth. There will still be an overrun, and therefore stock up on it in advance so that you have a tree of the same moisture content and properties for the entire rafter system.

Otherwise, if any individual elements roofs you had to purchase separately, they may take longer to dry (wood always dries), or vice versa. Distortions can turn out to be considerable, i.e. the entire roof frame will be constantly affected by different physical forces stretching and pressure. Any experienced roofer will tell you how bad it is and what it is fraught with. And therefore - take more material for the manufacture of rafters than you plan. If everything goes smoothly, there will be plenty to make the first bench in front of the new house.

Treatment with antiseptics and propylene

And at this stage it is already important to protect the future truss system from biological destruction. You do not want the roof to collapse after a couple of years of operation, do you? Therefore, be sure to treat the wood for the rafters with fire and bioprotection.

The rafters are usually impregnated with an antiseptic, and treated with a flame retardant on top. It is also possible to alternate such processing several times. If you use universal impregnation, be aware that it usually includes products with different service lives. For example, fire protection will end earlier than bio.

But the choice of means for processing today is huge. This and universal protective equipment, and a variety of flame retardants, and antiseptics. It's easy to decide: if you are building in a fairly hot and dry area, first of all use fire-retardant impregnations that deprive the wood of natural flammability. And if your house will stand where the humidity is high, almost all year round- protect from decay.

You can, of course, use both drugs - but only without mixing, otherwise the whole material will deteriorate. You just need to choose one agent as an impregnation, and the second as a protective surface layer. Just try to dilute everything in the concentration indicated by the manufacturer. But do not treat frozen or damp wood with anything: its fibers simply will not absorb anything.

Video hint on the topic of rafter processing:

Note that a brush or a spray when processing rafters give little result - complete immersion and subsequent drying are much better. Just use a regular container, cover it with a film from the inside and make a “bathroom” for future rafters. Moreover, it is desirable to turn all this on the ground, as soon as you bring the material to the place, because. in the finished rafter system it will be difficult to get to the internal elements of the joints. And they are the most defenseless in terms of moisture. Dry after processing the part so that all sides are ventilated, and for at least 24 hours.

Do not forget also that wood, like any natural material subject to biological degradation. Therefore, in addition to fire-bio-protection, it is important to consider waterproofing in all places where the truss system adjoins the brick walls of the house, if any.

We make the right cuts on the rafters

Now let's move on to practice. First of all, you definitely need to make a convenient template, according to which you will make even, identical rafters:

And follow these instructions:

You will have to tinker with a rigid mount:

If we are talking about moving nodes, then follow this principle:

In practice, everything is really simple:

As you can see, the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing!

How to assemble a truss system?

Finally, the rafters are ready, and you can proceed with their installation.

Build on the ground or on the roof?

So, in fact, everything is quite simple and somewhat similar to a children's designer. The easiest and most convenient way is to make farms right on the ground, and only then raise them. It is a little more difficult to assemble the rafters directly on the roof, but it is easier to lift them there. Start from this: if you have the opportunity (a crane, for example) to drag 200 kg of one truss onto the roof, drag it, if not, lift each individual rafter 50 kg using improvised means and do the assembly on the spot.

So, first of all, for convenience, make a template according to which you will assemble the trusses, and another template for mounting cuts on the rafters (use plywood). You just have to cut the mounting cuts on the rafters, attaching a template, and connect them together at a certain angle. This triangle is called the truss truss.

Attention to strength - rules for increasing the length

If the thickness or length of the board is not enough to make a normal rafter leg, build up the rafters. And there are several ways:

1. Bring the boards together, folding them with wide sides and stitching them with nails.
2. Lay the boards in half the length, resulting in a particularly strong rafter leg that can withstand considerable loads.
3. By making an oblique cut at the ends to create a vertical anti-slip stop, and connect with a bolt.
4. Lay two boards with an overlap of a meter in length, connecting the rafters with studs or nails.

Also consider when calculating that the roof ridge accounts for about 50% of the load from the entire truss system. Therefore, always make the beam for the ridge so that it has a safety margin of at least 25% more than it was originally calculated.

And the most vulnerable parts of the truss structures are the lower ones, those that rely on the Mauerlat.

Cooking truss trusses

fasten truss knots needed with:

• External straight brace.
• Metal corner plate.
• Internal metal rod.

You can also connect such rafters with studs - it will even be stronger. To do this, instead of a cut, we now make a cut in half a tree and connect the rafters with a ledge. Next, we drill a hole for the stud 12-14 mm and fix it with nuts with wide washers.

Let's start with a review of proven grandfather methods:

Here's how they work:

When assembling a hanging type truss truss, you need to connect the upper ends of the rafter legs. To do this, cut the end of each at exactly the same angle at which you make the roof, connect the beams with cut planes and fix with two nails. Close the joint with a wooden lining or a metal plate.

Another useful tutorial:

Lifting and installation of finished trusses

Already on the roof, first of all, you need to start by installing those rafters that form the two extreme trusses of a gable roof (they are also called gable). To further secure them, put temporary struts. Next, stretch a strong cord between the extreme tops of the trusses, which will become the level for the intermediate rafters.

Now we raise and place all the other roof trusses at a distance of at least 0.6 meters from each other. Again, if some of the structures turned out to be quite bulky, prop them up with the same temporary supports.

The rest is a matter of technique:

The roof of a building is an important and responsible structural element that performs several functions at the same time. The main task is to protect walls and ceilings from the ingress of rain or melt water, which destroys the materials of the walls and the entire structure as a whole. Additional features are the conservation of thermal energy, ensuring the operation of various life support systems at home, protection from wind, dust and other atmospheric and climatic manifestations. The roof structure is complex, the roof covering, which takes on all the main tasks of sealing and cutting off from low temperatures, needs a reliable and durable carrier system.

Gable roof and its features

The roof is one or more planes covered with a roof and designed to cut off external weather or atmospheric manifestations. Each plane is called a pitch, so a gable roof, by definition, has two protective planes. They can be symmetrical or asymmetrical, have the same or different angles. The configuration is determined by the architect's intention, the climate in the region, the presence of strong winds, etc. The most common are symmetrical gable structures, as they create a uniform load on the walls and foundation.

Slope angle

Roof planes must necessarily have a slope that ensures the flow of snow or water. The angle value is a design indicator, it cannot be chosen arbitrarily. Factors affecting the choice of slope:

1. The amount of snow falling in winter, typical for a given region.
2. The number of rains, their strength and duration.
3. Prevailing winds, their strength and duration, the possibility of squally gusts or hurricane values.

The meaning of calculating the angle of inclination of the slopes is to determine the optimal position of the planes, which ensures the timely melting of snow, the runoff of rainwater and, at the same time, does not create excessive resistance to wind currents. Snow loads in winter period are estimated in tons, and gusts of wind create a significant impact on the supporting structures of the house and the foundation. We have to look for a "golden mean" that allows you to get a sufficient slope with low wind resistance. In some regions with certain prevailing winds and high rainfall, an asymmetric roof shape, sloping on the windward side and steep on the leeward slope, becomes the best choice. To achieve this shape, you have to create two planes different area with a fracture line located outside the axis of symmetry of the building. When creating a house project, it is imperative to take into account the prevailing wind direction so that the load falls on the slopes of the roof and creates minimal stress load-bearing structures.

What is a truss system

Gable roofs usually have vertical continuations of the walls from the end part - gables. Small buildings may not have a truss system at all, when the roof is laid on longitudinal strips laid on the slopes of opposite gables. For larger buildings, it is necessary to have a strong support. This is how the assembly of the gable roof truss system looks like with your own hands:

Roofing is able to ensure the tightness of the outer protective layer, not letting in moisture or wind. At the same time, the roof has no bearing capacity, it needs a well-organized support system. As such, rafters perform several tasks:

• create a reference plane for the roof, form a frame;
• form the configuration of the roof, create the required number of planes - slopes;
• provide the necessary rigidity and strength;
• connect the roof to the supporting structures of the building.

The functions performed put forward a lot of requirements for the system, the main of which are strength and the ability to maintain shape despite a long service life and tolerated loads. Here is an example of the easy way calculation of the strength of each individual rafter:

Externally, the gable roof rafters look like two rows of sloping slats, connecting at the top. To ensure the strength and rigidity of the structure, there are various elements that need to be considered in more detail.

Elements of the truss system

Rafter construction is one of the most complex of all building systems. It consists of:

1. Mauerlat. A strapping belt made of timber 100 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm, laid along the perimeter of the walls in the upper end part. It serves as the basis for the rafters, connects the roof to the walls.
2. Sill. It is laid along the longitudinal axis of the building, provides support for vertical support elements. It is used only on buildings with an internal middle load-bearing wall.
3. Sprengel. Strengthens corner connections Mauerlat. It is a kind of strut laid horizontally and providing a diagonal ligament.
4. Puff. Connects the opposite bars of the Mauerlat, compensating for the bursting load from the inclined elements.
5. Rack (grandmother). A vertical piece that supports a skate.
6. Skate (run). A horizontal bar (or board) that forms the upper edge of the roof, connecting inclined planes - slopes.
7. Rafters (rafter legs). Inclined planks forming the planes of the slopes. With their lower ends they rest on the Mauerlat beam, with their upper ends on the run.
8. Struts. Inclined elements that serve as additional supports for the rafters at the points of greatest load. Installed perpendicular (or at a slight angle) to the rafters.

Important! This list is not exhaustive, there are many more various elements truss systems, but they are usually not used on gable roofs.

What are rafters made of

The material for the manufacture of rafters is traditionally wood - timber and edged boards. Advantages wooden parts truss system:

1. Relatively light weight, eliminating high loads on the supporting structures of the house.
2. Availability, prevalence of material.
3. Wood is easily processed, cut, connected.
4. High maintainability of the material. Any element can be replaced or put in order during operation.
5. Durability, reliability of a design.

There are also disadvantages:

1. Wood is susceptible to decay, mold or fungus.
2. High susceptibility to water, the ability to absorb and release moisture.
3. Swelling, wood changes linear dimensions.
4. Wood is flammable.
5. Installation of rafters requires the use of material with high requirements for moisture and quality.

IN Lately appeared alternative view rafters - metal. They are devoid of most of the shortcomings of wooden parts, are not afraid of water, are strong and durable. The disadvantages include only the possibility of corrosion (although the metal has a protective coating), relatively high weight and increased complexity of the connection compared to wood. Besides, metal rafters much more expensive, which limits their use in private housing construction. The main consumers of such parts are builders of large facilities that need solid roof large sizes. The loads experienced by the truss system in such conditions are very high and require the use of reinforced parts.

The process of installing a metal truss system is nothing more difficult than the process of assembling a wooden structure. You can verify this for yourself:

There are combined truss systems that use both metal and wooden elements. This option allows you to slightly reduce the weight of the structure, it is more economical and easier to install. The only crucial point is the need to waterproof the joints of metal and wooden parts, since the condensate that forms on the metal can get on the wood, cause rotting and failure.

Types of truss systems

There are two options for the design of truss systems:

• with hanging rafters;
• layered truss system.

The fundamental difference between these options is the fulcrum of the rafter legs. The first option involves attaching the base of the rafters to the Mauerlat and connecting them at the top point when the run (ridge) rests on them. The second option provides a more durable run with load-bearing functions, and the rafters are fully fixed to the Mauerlat and to the ridge beam.

Both options are actively used. In practice, they differ little from each other, since the features of the implementation of one type or another directly depend on the size of the building and the structure. bearing walls. The construction of medium-sized houses forces the use of structures that are more similar to the layered type, which provides greater strength and rigidity of the system. Let's consider both options in more detail:

Hanging rafter system

The traditional option for using hanging rafters is small houses, with a maximum distance between supports of up to 6 m. This is due to the appearance of an additional load - in addition to the weight of the roof and exposure to atmospheric factors, the rafters receive self-supporting properties. With an increase in the size of the house, the load becomes excessive and requires reinforcement of the structure.

A feature of hanging truss systems is the bursting force applied to the Mauerlat. To compensate for this pressure and protect the walls from deformation and subsequent destruction, puffs located at the bottom of the rafter legs are necessarily used. During construction, they often resort to the manufacture of so-called. truss trusses having the shape of an isosceles triangle. They are made on the ground or assembled directly on the top of the house and installed on the roof Mauerlat as a finished structure. This method somewhat speeds up the process of creating a roof, as it uses elements of the same type, which allows you to repeat the same operations several times and get right amount elements.

Layered truss system

The construction of houses of medium and large sizes requires the creation of a strong and rigid truss system. Roof weight, snow and wind loads forced to use a layered type of system. It differs, first of all, in the installation technique. First, supporting elements are installed - Mauerlat, bed, racks and run. They have a high bearing capacity and are designed to take significant loads, so they are made of timber. Rafter legs are installed based on the Mauerlat from below and on the run in the upper part, with a large length they are reinforced with struts.

Experts note the great reliability of the layered truss system. When assembling, there are no ready-made parts of the structure, so all work is carried out directly on top of the building. There is no need to lift heavy finished elements, only material is fed up. Each bar is installed separately, which ensures the accuracy and tightness of the connection, avoiding poor-quality installation or errors. In comparison with structures with hanging rafters, layered truss systems significantly benefit in strength and allow you to get a better and more durable supporting structure. In regions with large quantities precipitation, snowy winters, strong gusty winds, a layered truss system for a gable roof is much more preferable and reliable.

How to choose the optimal design of gable roof rafters

The main selection criterion is the size and purpose of the building. small houses, not having large area roofing, able to do with lighter supporting structures. Medium-sized buildings, large buildings must have a strong and powerful truss system that can withstand the pressure of snow, wind, and withstand the weight of the roof. In order to decide how to make a roof correctly, it is necessary to find out the climatic features in the region, the amount of precipitation, the possibility and frequency of strong winds, heavy snowfalls, etc. These data are included in the calculation, they are available in the tables of SNiP or in reference literature.

At the same time, one should not be too zealous and build an overly powerful truss system for a small house. It must be remembered that power is additional material, and consequently - an increase in the weight of the structure. Optimal choice will allow you to get a fairly strong and lightweight system that does not overload the foundation and walls, but fully provides protection from external atmospheric manifestations.

Installation of a gable roof truss system

Consider how to properly install the rafters with your own hands on a gable roof. The task is difficult, but quite solvable. The main condition will be the possession of the necessary knowledge and accuracy, thoroughness in performing all the necessary operations. A simpler option is a system with hanging rafters, but it is more correct to consider complex structures, since layered rafters on a gable roof are more reliable, and the work technique is almost the same.

Preparatory operations

First of all, you need to make a careful calculation of the system. For an unprepared person, such a task will certainly be overwhelming, but the solution may be to use an online calculator, of which there are many on the Internet. It is easy to use them - you need to substitute your own data (roof dimensions, other values) into the windows of the program and get ready-made parameters for the truss system. For more exact values you can repeat the calculation on another calculator.

The second step will be the acquisition of material. Consider a more complex case - making a wooden truss system with your own hands. She will need wooden beam 100 × 150 or 150 × 150 mm in size, as well as edged board 50 mm thick. On the quality of the material should pay close attention. Wood should not have defects:

• rotten areas;
• traces of insect activity;
• cracks;
• the number of knots should be limited, you should not choose material with dead (dropped out) knots;
• wood moisture should be in the range of 18-22%.

The selected and purchased material must be folded in the area under a canopy. It is impossible to tightly lay boards or timber on top of each other, it is necessary to use gaskets for free air movement. An example of proper storage of lumber:

Important! Great importance has resin in the wood. If a tapping (resin collection) was performed on the site, then the material becomes lighter and dries faster. At the same time, the risk of damage by a fungus, rotting or absorption of atmospheric moisture increases.

In any case, the purchased material must be kept for some time (at least a couple of weeks) on the site in order to gain atmospheric humidity characteristic of this region. If you start construction immediately, there is a risk of distortion of the structure, the occurrence of unnecessary stresses.

The next and final step of the preparatory operations must necessarily be the bactericidal treatment of purchased wooden materials:

Important! If you want the roof to serve you for at least 50 years without a single repair, you need to treat the wood with an antiseptic. This simple operation will avoid damage to the lumber by bark beetles, and will also prevent the material from rotting.

Do-it-yourself installation of gable roof rafters

Consider how a do-it-yourself gable roof truss system is made. The work is carried out in stages, in strict order. Since the installation of a structure with hanging rafters is somewhat simpler, consider a more labor-intensive option - installing a layered timber truss system for a gable roof.

The first step in installing rafters for a gable roof with your own hands is to prepare the walls of the building without a Mauerlat. An example is shown in the photo:

The mounting surface of the walls is leveled with a small layer of mortar. After the solution is completely dry, apply on top of it bituminous waterproofing, or one layer (strip) of roofing material is laid. Next, a board is laid on top of the "sandwich".

The second step is the installation of the Mauerlat. How to do this is shown in detail in the photo below:

The timber piping is installed on a waterproofed base formed by inside end of walls. A brick or block ledge is usually installed along the outer edge, providing protection against water ingress from outside. Sometimes Mauerlat is made from edged boards, which is justified when small sizes buildings and roofs. For insulation, a double layer of roofing material is used, with an intermediate application of heated bitumen. The connection of the beam both in the longitudinal and in the transverse direction is made in half a tree. Studs are used to strengthen the strapping. Before finally putting the beam in place, holes are made at the end of the walls for deepening the ends of the studs or dowels, installing anchor bolts.

Then the bed is installed. Installation is carried out in a similar way, on a waterproofed base. The connection with the Mauerlat is made in half a tree, reinforced with metal staples or nails.

Racks are installed. They are mounted on a bed, additionally reinforced with struts or struts. On upper part racks attached run.

Installation of rafter legs begins. They are attached to the Mauerlat and run with nails. To illustrate, here are a few examples:

There are also metal fasteners for gable roof rafters, which provide high-quality connection of parts. It must be remembered that between wood and metal there must be a gasket made of roofing material or glassine. The installation step of the rafter legs is determined by calculations made in advance. The durability and reliability of the roof depends on the accuracy of observing the dimensions. Here is an example of assembling truss trusses on nail plates:

At the end of the installation of the gable roof truss system, the crate is installed.

There are two types - the crate itself and the counter-crate. The first type is used in the absence of insulation, and if it is planned to be installed, then both layers are mounted. The counter-lattice in such cases provides the necessary ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation and at the same time serves as a support for roofing material. The crate performs the function of supporting the insulation and provides the necessary clearance between the rafters and the counter-crate.

In parallel with the crate, a roof overhang is made. It provides protection of the ends of the walls from water. It is impossible to form an overhang immediately during the installation of the rafter legs, therefore, work is carried out at the final stage. To form an overhang, edged inch board, from which the continuation of the rafter line is made, taking into account the thickness of the crate, extending beyond the perimeter of the walls by the required amount.

Do-it-yourself installation of gable roof rafters allows you to significantly save money, complete all the work at a convenient time for yourself and gain valuable experience in performing such work. The main condition for obtaining a high-quality result will be accuracy, thoroughness in the implementation of all actions, preliminary familiarization with the rules and features of the installation of a particular element.

Video instructions

The roof is an important structure of the house. She completes the construction of the building frame, after which only the finishing remains. The most common execution scheme with two slopes. The gable roof is made by hand without much difficulty, you just need to understand the technology.

Roof structure

Before you start installing a gable roof, you need to figure out what it is. The design differs from all other gables. You can bring the following varieties of them, depending on the method of assembling the truss system:

• shed - gables have the shape of a trapezoid or a right triangle;
• gable is characterized by triangular gables;
• four-slope (hip) has no vertical edges.

The main elements of the system gable roof are:

• rafters;
• Mauerlat;
• crossbar;
• struts;
• racks;
• contractions (screeds);
• crate;
• thrust bars and pads.

Rafters are the main supporting structures. When building with your own hands, it is important to choose their cross section correctly, otherwise an emergency situation may arise.

Preparing to start work

Before you make a gable roof, you will need to select materials. Installation begins with the choice of wood. To build with your own hands robust design, resistant to external factors you will need to follow these guidelines:

For construction, it is better to choose conifers of the first or second grade

• it will be right to choose coniferous wood materials (spruce, pine, larch are more resistant to decay);
• the assembly of the structure is carried out from wood of the first or second grade, the use of the third for critical elements is unacceptable;
• it is better to choose those lumber that is produced in the northern regions than more difficult conditions the growth of a tree, the denser its structure;
• they try to choose the material that is cut down at the end of the cold period of the year (February-March).

• load from snow cover (snow area);
• weight of roofing;
• rafter step;
• span (distance between reference points);
• insulation thickness.

A heat-insulating layer is required when designing a living space in the under-roof space of a house - an attic. Most often, do-it-yourself installation of mineral wool material is performed to improve thermal insulation characteristics. At the same time, it is important to provide a ventilation gap between the heat insulator and roofing. The height of the rafter leg should not be less than the thickness of the insulation. To increase the clearance, such an element of the system as a counter-lattice is introduced - a bar that is nailed parallel to the rafter leg and increases its height.

The most convenient rafter pitch for a private house is the one that provides a clear distance of 0.58 m between them.

This allows you to correctly install the plates mineral wool without undercuts and additional elements. For such a step, the following recommendations for the cross section can be given, depending on the span:

• span 3 m - rafter size 40x150 mm;
• 4 m - 50x150 mm;
• 5 m - 50x175 mm;
• 6 m - 50x200 mm.

It is important to know the following: bearing capacity and bending resistance is more affected by height than width. If necessary, increase the bearing capacity more effectively increase the height.
Another element whose cross section will need to be selected is the crate. by the most optimal value will be 32 mm thick. With increased load, the value is increased to 40 mm.

The remaining components of the truss system of the house are assigned constructively, based on what lumber is available. But at the same time, strength requirements should still be taken into account.

Immediately after purchasing the material, before the assembly of the system begins, you will need to process all the elements with special compounds with your own hands.

Gable, like any other roof of the house, needs the following types of protection:

• antiseptic, produced without fail, allows you to prevent the processes of decay and the occurrence of mold and fungus (even if installation is not planned some time after the purchase of wood, processing is carried out immediately);
• flame retardant, optional, but very important, increases the ability of the tree to resist fire, which increases the safety of the building.

Installation of the truss system at home

To build a roof at home with your own hands, you need to do all the work in a certain order. Installation of elements does not cause difficulties, but the quality of nodes and connections must be controlled. The most important areas are:

• fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
• fastening rafters to the Mauerlat;
• fastening the rafters to each other.

To properly build a roof with your own hands, the work should be done in the following order:

• Mauerlat installation;
• installation of rafters at a design angle;
• fastening of the legs in the upper part;
• unfastening of load-bearing structures with the help of racks, struts and contractions;
• installation of counter-lattices, battens, waterproofing;
• warming roofing system with your own hands;
• installation of the lower lathing, installation of roofing.

Mauerlat fastening to the wall

When installing with your own hands, it is important to understand where to put the Mauerlat. A bar with a section of 150x150 mm or 200x200 mm is installed on the inner edge of the outer walls. At the same time, it is important to ensure sufficient thermal insulation of such a site. The outer part of the fence in this area can be made of the same material as the walls.

In this case, laying is performed at an angle equal to the slope of the slopes. The second option is to fill the space with expanded clay concrete. These methods are relevant for stone houses (brick, foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, etc.). If it is planned to build a frame or wooden house, the Mauerlat will act as top harness or wall crown.

There are several ways to get the job done:

1. Staple fastening. To do this, wooden blocks are installed in the penultimate row of masonry, to which the lower part of the brackets will be attached, and the upper part is wound into the Mauerlat. Wooden corks must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
2. Wire attachment. To perform this option, you will need to lay a wire 3-4 mm thick in the masonry walls or a monolithic belt, its length should be such as to wrap the beam and twist the wire rod.
3. Fastening with bolts or studs. The options are similar, but the first one provides more reliability. Fasteners are laid in a monolithic belt. After that, the beam is laid on studs or bolts. To make holes for them in the right places, lightly tap on the Mauerlat. The resulting recesses will be places for drilling holes. After their preparation, the beam is finally installed in the design position and tightened with nuts.

When building a house, it is also important to know how to build up the Mauerlat. Standard sizes lumber - 6 m, and the walls can be longer. To connect two elements along the length, you will need to perform a direct lock. To do this, one element is cut out lower part, and the other top. Fastening is done with bolts. It is not recommended to cut at an angle in this case. With the help of a direct gash, corner joints are also made.

The choice of mounting method for the Mauerlat largely depends on the material of the walls, more precisely on its strength. For lightweight concrete, pouring will be a mandatory measure. monolithic belt along the perimeter.

It is important to provide waterproofing between wood and stone material. For this, roofing material, linokrom or hydroisol are most often used.

There are two most common options for doing do-it-yourself work when building a house:

• with a gash;
• without drinking.

In both cases, the rafters are additionally fixed with metal corners on both sides. When using a system with a gash, you will need to process the timber at an angle corresponding to the slope of the roof of the house. When installing without a gash, it is necessary to prepare a support beam with your own hands, which will not allow the system element to move across the Mauerlat. As an additional fixation, nails are hammered and a wire is twisted from the leg to the wall (you can perform such an attachment through one leg).

2 types of fastening rafters to Mauerlat

How do-it-yourself gable rafters of the house will be installed, for detailed and visual information, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the series “knots of wooden roofs of residential rural buildings”. This album contains a large number of options for fixing all the elements that will help you complete the installation without errors.

During the construction of private houses, the roof is most often made gable. There are reasons for this. First, it is reliable. Copes well with wind and snow loads. The second - it is compatible with any roofing. The third is relatively inexpensive. The fourth is a simple design that is difficult to spoil. Fifth - it looks attractive. All this, and more gable roof it is built with its own hands without the presence of special knowledge, determines its popularity.

Do-it-yourself assembled gable roof ready for installation of roofing

Step-by-step installation of a gable roof

As you saw above, there are a lot of truss systems. Accordingly, when assembling each has its own characteristics, but in general order same. It is necessary to say about the general step: pre-drying and processing of wood. This step is required if you bought fresh lumber, not dried.

The use of raw wood in the construction of the roof natural humidity will lead to problems: the beams will bend, they will dry out, the geometry will change. All this will lead to the emergence of stress points and at the slightest sign of overload (a lot of snow, strong wind or rain), negative processes will begin. Their elimination is a complex and costly undertaking. Therefore, either buy dry wood (no more than 20%, ideally chamber drying 8-12%), or buy material a couple of months in advance, put it in ventilated piles. After that, treat with the necessary impregnations (from fungal attack and to reduce flammability) and only after that use it in the installation of the truss system.

Timber must be dried in ventilated stacks. To do this, they are laid in short pieces of boards. They are placed a meter from the edges and further through the meter. Spacers must be installed under the bottom

We will talk about the main stages of assembly, about how to make a gable roof with your own hands in this section.

Mauerlat

The assembly of the gable roof truss system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat. It must be set strictly horizontally, therefore, before starting installation, the horizontalness of the wall to which it is attached is carefully checked, if necessary, it is leveled cement mortar. You can continue work after the solution gains 50% strength.

Depending on the system, this is a beam with a section of 150 * 150 mm or a board with dimensions of 50 * 150 mm. It is attached to the top row of masonry walls. If the house is wooden, its role is played by the upper crown. If the walls are made of light building blocks - foam concrete or aerated concrete and others - their rigidity is not enough to redistribute the load. In this case, a reinforced concrete belt is made over the last row of masonry, into which embedded fasteners are embedded - wire or studs. A bar or board is then mounted on them.

There are several ways to connect walls and Mauerlat:

• In the masonry (in the reinforced concrete belt) a smooth rolled wire of large diameter is fixed (two ends stick up). Holes are then made in the board in the necessary places, into which the wire is threaded. She then twists and bends.
• Studs with a diameter of at least 12 mm are immured in the wall. Under them, holes are made in the Mauerlat, a beam / board is placed) and tightened with nuts with wide washers.
• Aligning the beam or board along the outer or inner edge of the wall, take a drill with a diameter of 12 mm, make holes for the anchor bolts. They (the same diameter of 12 mm) are hammered to the very hat, then tightened with a key.

The distance between the studs (wire) should not be more than 120 cm. Cut-off waterproofing must be laid on the wall (belt) under the Mauerlat. It can be rolled roofing felt or waterproofing in two layers, it can be smeared with bituminous mastic.

Rafter installation

There are more than a dozen types of gable roof truss systems. First of all, you need to choose what yours will look like. Further, in order to make it easier to work, a template is made from thin boards for all cuts, cuts and other similar details. To do this, you may need to assemble the first form on the roof, and then make templates for the finished one.

The assembly order depends on the type of truss system. If the rafters are layered, they are installed gradually, assembling from the elements directly on the roof. In this case, it is convenient if the beams of the ceiling are laid and, if possible, the draft flooring of the attic or attic.

In systems with hanging rafters, a farm is assembled on the ground - a ready-made triangle of puffs and rafter legs with all the required struts, racks. The required number of farms is assembled at once. Then they are lifted to the roof, placed vertically there and attached to the Mauerlat.

On the one hand, this is convenient - it is easier to work on the ground, with a high assembly speed, the accuracy is high: one farm is not much different from the other, which simplifies the procedure. But it can be difficult to raise finished trusses, especially for large buildings. To make this easier, two inclined boards are installed, which at one end rest against the ground, and the other sticks out a little above the wall. Farms are brought closer to this “lift”, one by one they are installed below, ropes are tied and tightened along the boards to the roof. In the absence of a winch or crane, this is the most acceptable method.

The assembly of rafters requires certain knowledge: how and in what order to mount them, how to mark and make cuts. See the video for the assembly of one of the schemes with a headstock.

Assembly order of the truss system

Everything, the do-it-yourself gable roof is assembled and ready for installation of roofing material.

The process of installing the rafters itself raises enough questions, but there are many ways and it is impossible to tell about them all. See one of them in the video. The system is large and went up to the roof in parts, and there it was already assembled into a single structure. It is convenient for large houses.

Features of the installation of the truss system of a wooden house

The difference between wooden houses is that the log house shrinks, and this leads to a change in the geometry of the truss system. If the elements are fixed rigidly, the roof may fall apart. Therefore, the mounts are made floating. There are special sliding fasteners, which in this case attach the rafters to the upper crown and to the girders, if any (see photo).

In order for the rafter to move freely during shrinkage, its long part is fixed strictly parallel to its edge, and the support is placed strictly perpendicular. If necessary, a platform is cut out under it. Mark the mount so that the hook is in the lowest position or near it. They are mounted on special self-tapping screws that come with the kit (ordinary ones do not fit). If the installation is done on a log, so that the rafter leg does not slip along it, a semicircular hole is cut out in the lower part, on which it will rest.

Such fasteners are sold on any construction market, it is called "slippery". How to attach the slippery to the beam, see the video.

Video on assembling and installing a gable roof truss system

Building a gable roof with your own hands is not easy: there are a lot of subtleties and nuances, there are different ways of fastening, building up. Describing them in words is a thankless job. This is the case when it is better to see. Below is a selection of videos that you may find useful.

Video report on how a gable roof is made

The story of the owner of the house about the stages of construction. There are interesting technical points that may be useful.

Two types of rafter connection: rigid and sliding

Video about the two most problematic types of connections.

How to determine the angle of the rafters

Full video report on the assembly of the truss system

This movie is just under an hour long, but the entire process is shown from start to finish with plenty of detail. The roof is placed on, but when installed on buildings of a different type (except for wooden houses), there is no difference.