Types of water coolers. We choose a high-quality, reliable water cooler. What additional features you should pay attention to when choosing a water cooler

The times when drinking tap water was tasty and healthy and could be drunk without additional filtration are long gone. At present, the quality of water supply has significantly decreased, and it is for this reason that special devices - water coolers - have increasingly begun to appear in office premises, as well as in enterprises and public places.

What is a water cooler

A cooler is a device designed to provide employees and visitors of enterprises, offices, city and private companies, as well as other objects with drinking cold and hot water. It is a structure consisting of a container with drinking water (usually a plastic bottle with a capacity of 19 to 30 liters), a dispenser, a connecting pipe and a check valve.

Principle of operation

After connecting the tank, the liquid enters the dispenser distribution system, which consists of containers for storing cold and hot water. First of all, the liquid enters the cold water tank, from where it is fed through the connecting pipe to the boiler, where hot water is prepared. A non-return valve is installed between the two tanks, which balances the pressure of the system and prevents the flow of water from crossing.

The cooler consists of tanks for cold and hot water, between which a separating check valve is installed.

Specifications of coolers

The main parameters by which water coolers differ are:

  • water heating and cooling power;
  • heating and cooling performance;
  • cooling technology;
  • method of loading a container with water.

Table: comparison of characteristics of coolers of different models

Types of water coolers

Water coolers are divided into several types depending on the installation method and cold water supply mode.

  1. Floor coolers. Work from a network of 220 V and are established on a plain and flat surface of a floor. The upper front panel of any device has an indicator board, which displays information about the selected mode of operation, that is, about what water is currently supplied - hot or cold. Some models of floor coolers are equipped with an ozonation chamber, which allows disinfection of cutlery and crockery. The floor cooler is installed on a flat surface and connected to the electrical network
  2. Desktop coolers. They are a classic version of a bottled dispenser. The devices are a structure consisting of a large plastic base and a water tank with a volume of 18 to 30 liters. Before placing the desktop cooler, you should check the strength of the surface on which the device is planned to be installed, as it is quite heavy and may fall during operation. The desktop cooler works in the same way as the floor cooler, but it is installed on the table and requires checking the strength of its base
  3. Flow dispensers. In flow-type coolers, water does not come from removable portable containers, but from a common plumbing system. Such devices have a built-in cleaning system, the principle of which is similar to the device of home water filters installed under the sink in the kitchen. Additionally, some models can be built in ultraviolet lamps designed to combat harmful microorganisms.
    Flow coolers do not require the purchase of water in plastic bottles, but take it from the plumbing system

If you plan not to use the device for a long time, it should be disconnected from the power supply.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of different types of coolers

cooler typeAdvantagesFlaws
Floor
  • compactness;
  • dual-mode (cooling and heating water);
  • variety of models;
  • the presence of additional functions of carbonation and water filtration;
  • built-in storage compartment for various utensils (not in all models);
  • suitability for intensive use;
  • ease of use.
  • large dimensions;
  • high price.
Desktop
  • low cost;
  • lightness and compactness;
  • ease of transportation.
  • the presence of a stand;
  • no additional built-in devices.
flowing
  • independence from the available water supply;
  • no restrictions on water consumption;
  • deep degree of cleaning;
  • profitability due to the low cost of tap water.
  • the need for periodic replacement of filters;
  • high price;
  • inability to move after installation;
  • dependence on the water supply system.

Depending on the cooling technology used, there are two types of coolers: electronic and compressor.

Coolers with electronic cooling

The operation of coolers with an electronic cooling system is based on the passage of electric current through conductors that are cooled at their junctions.

Distinctive features:

  • the cooling rate is about 3 l/h;
  • reliability and environmental friendliness. This type of device does not use freon, so they are free from problems with refrigerant leakage;
  • light weight and low cost.

Coolers with compressor cooling

Coolers with a compressor cooling system function through the use of a refrigerant - freon, which is also used in refrigerators.


Compressor coolers work on the same principle as household refrigerators.

Features of compressor coolers:

  • durability and strength;
  • high performance;
  • the ability to adjust the cooling temperature.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of electronic and compressor coolers

cooler typeAdvantagesFlaws
Electronically cooled
  • ease of use;
  • compactness;
  • low cost of installation and maintenance work;
  • noiselessness;
  • possibility of transportation in a horizontal position.
  • reduced performance;
  • the undesirability of installation in dusty and unventilated rooms (otherwise more thorough care is needed);
  • relatively slow cooling of the liquid;
  • low productivity (the device can serve no more than three people at the same time).
Compressor cooled
  • the ability to adjust the water temperature;
  • high performance;
  • cooling down to sufficiently low temperatures.
  • loud noise;
  • transportation only in vertical position;
  • big weight;
  • high price.

Cooler schemes

The scheme and arrangement of the cooler depends on its type and purpose, as well as on the technology of water filtration.

Flow cooler diagram

The flow-through water cooler consists of a four-stage filter, an ultraviolet lamp, hot and cold water tanks with appropriate elements (heating and cooling). The use of a large number of filters and a UV lamp is due to the fact that a water supply system (water supply) is used as a source of water. They interfere with the process of reproduction of viral and bacterial particles.

The flow cooler has a four-stage filter and an ultraviolet lamp, which are necessary for pre-treatment of tap water

The compressor cooler consists of the following components:

  • sedimentary filter (Sediment Filter) - cleans water from 90% of suspended particles larger than 5 microns;
    Sediment filter traps all foreign particles larger than 5 µm
  • carbon pre-filter (Carbon Pre-Filter) - removes chlorine and organic chemicals, and also improves the taste of water;
    Carbon pre-filter is used to remove chlorine and various organic impurities
  • ultrafiltration filter (UF Membrane Filter) or reverse osmosis membrane (RO Membrane Filter) - purify water from bacteria, viruses, fine particles, dissolved minerals and salt crystals;
    Ultrafiltration filter purifies water from viruses, dissolved minerals and salts
  • carbon post-filter (Post Carbon Filter) - removes odors, flavors and organic substances remaining after passing through a reverse osmosis or ultrafiltration membrane;
  • containers and taps for supplying hot and cold water;
  • compressor - creates the pressure necessary for the conversion of the refrigerant into a liquid and its further evaporation with the absorption of excess heat;
    The compressor of the cooler performs the same functions as in the refrigerator, providing the evaporation of the refrigerant
  • booster pump - sets the pressure for optimal system performance.
    A cooler with a compressor cooling system consists of a four-stage filter, a compressor, a booster pump and pipes through which the refrigerant circulates.

The choice of a drinking cooler is a rather responsible step, since the quality of water, and, accordingly, the health of people, will depend on its type and device. When choosing a cooler, you should focus on the following characteristics:

  1. Apparatus size.
  2. Filtration technology. The most preferable would be a device with a multi-stage water purification system.
  3. The presence of an ultraviolet lamp, especially if it is assumed that children will drink the water.
  4. The temperature of the water inside the device. It is better if it is +98 o C for hot water and +4 o C for cold water. An additional advantage is the ability to control the temperature.
  5. The presence of additional functions: child protection, dispenser, timer (programming the cooler for automatic on / off).

Do-it-yourself cooler repair

Although the water cooler is a household appliance, it is designed for long-term use and therefore requires periodic maintenance and sometimes repair. To carry out these works, the device often needs to be disassembled.

In order to disassemble the cooler, you need to perform the following steps:

Further analysis depends on the type of malfunction.

The main malfunctions of coolers

During operation, a variety of malfunctions can occur, ranging from elementary ones that can be corrected on their own, to complex ones associated with breakdown of electromechanical components.

Video: water cooler not working - self-diagnosis

Water not heating up enough

Weakening of heating may be due to the fact that during operation scale has formed in the hot water tank. In order to check the presence or absence of scale, you need to perform the following steps:

  1. Open the back cover of the cooler.
  2. Find a container for heating water (usually located at the top of the machine).

    The water heating tank is a metal tank, inside which scale can form.

  3. Remove the drain plugs (depending on the model, there may be one or two) and drain the remaining water.
  4. Take the key number 15 and use it to remove the rubber seal.
  5. Using a small shaped screwdriver, unscrew the four screws (under the seal).
  6. Take the wire cutters and carefully cut off the clamp from the pipe and the rest of the connecting tubes.
  7. Disconnect the power and ground wires (by unscrewing the screws), and then remove the temperature sensor.
    In order to remove the temperature sensor, it is necessary to disconnect the power and ground wires
  8. Dismantle the switched off heating tank.
  9. Check the presence of paste in the places where the container is installed. If it is missing, then update it by applying a small thin layer.
  10. Take the dismantled container and clean it from the fiberglass coating (it may not be present).
    The hot water tank in the cooler can be wrapped in a fiberglass insulation cover
  11. Open the lid, biting, if necessary, the clips that secure it to the body.
  12. Using a toothbrush or a small brush dipped in citric acid, clean the inside of the container from scale.
    A large amount of scale can accumulate on the walls and the heating element, which must be removed with citric acid

Video: cleaning the cooler at home

Additionally, you should check the heating element (thermal electric heater), since damage to its integrity or a decrease in resistance can also lead to a deterioration in the quality of water heating.


Video: checking the heating element

Cooler won't turn on

Partial or complete loss of cooler functionality, as well as an unpleasant taste of water, may appear due to accumulated dirt. In order not to bring the device to a running state, it is necessary to carry out its monthly cleaning from dust. Before proceeding with this process, remember that four things are prohibited: washing the cooler under a tap or shower, placing the device in a dishwasher, disinfecting with a steam cleaner, and using abrasive detergents (powders and solvents).

In order to clean and disinfect the cooler, you need to perform the following steps:

  1. Disconnect the device from the power supply.
  2. Take an antibacterial (wet) wipe and wipe the cooler case.
  3. Drain the remaining liquid from the water tank and remove it.
  4. Drain the water from both taps one after the other.
  5. Remove the plug from the drain hole located at the bottom of the cooler (in some models it can be inside the device behind the back cover) and pour out the remaining water. The drain hole in the cooler can be located at the bottom of the tank or on the back wall of the case
  6. Screw the plug in place.
  7. Turn the holder for the water tank counterclockwise and remove it.
  8. Prepare a solution of citric acid (100 grams per 5 liters of water) and pour it into the hole. You can use the tool "Bior 1" (25 grams per 1 liter of water). When using this product, it is strictly forbidden to heat up, as this can damage the heating element and the reservoir.
    A solution of citric acid or special disinfectants is poured into the tank
  9. Make sure both containers are completely filled. To do this, you need to open the taps - water should flow out in an even continuous stream.
  10. Connect the cooler to the network and turn it on. Wait for the water to heat up and turn off the device from the network.
  11. Wait 5-6 hours for the acid to disinfect the cooler from the inside.
  12. Drain the water first from the taps, and then through the drain hole.
  13. Unscrew both faucets and, using a brush moistened with Antiklin dishwashing spray, clean the internal cavities of the faucets.
  14. Rinse the faucets with clean water and replace them.
  15. Fill the cooler with clean water and drain it in the above sequence (repeat 2-3 times).
  16. Assemble the cooler and put a tank with new drinking water.

Video: cooler cleaning

The water has a bitter taste

A decrease in water quality and a deterioration in taste can occur not only due to contamination of the apparatus, but also due to the loss of filter properties. To replace filters, follow these steps:


Table: cooler filter replacement schedule

A lot will depend on how carefully the cooler is taken care of, and most importantly, your health. In order for the device to work properly, you must follow the recommendations that are described in the user manual and in our review article.

Coolers are devices for dosing, cooling and heating drinking water. Some models have additional functions and can carbonate, disinfect and even ozonize water. The cooler can be a good alternative to an electric kettle, boiler or water refrigerator. With this unit, you can get the right amount of water from large store gallons or a water pipe at any time. It is very convenient for use in public places and apartments. In hot weather, you can always drink cold water from the cooler. And for tea lovers, it always has hot water.

Types of coolers

Today there are many different models of coolers - evaluate the range at https://elitcoolers.ru. Depending on the manufacturer, these units have different functions, design and price.

Coolers have different connection methods and are divided into flow and bottled ones.

They are desktop and floor, for installation on a table or on the floor.

Flow coolers

Such units purify tap water (up to 180 liters per day). They cool it down to 4 degrees or heat it up to 98 degrees. This is convenient for large offices or industrial premises.

Bottled coolers

These devices are not connected to the water mains. The water in them comes from large bottles that are sold in supermarkets. They can be used in any conditions, they are easy to transport and install. These coolers also cool and heat water.

Floor coolers

The devices are installed directly on the floor, their height is from 1 meter or more.

Attached are:

  • coasters;
  • cupboard for storing cups, sugar, tea, etc.;
  • ozonizer cabinet for ozonizing products;
  • fridge;
  • carbonator (a device for carbonating water);
  • electronic scoreboard (for control).

Compared to a desktop cooler, such a cooler is more expensive, but it has more functions and is more convenient to use.

Desktop coolers

They are produced up to 0.5 meters high, without a bottle of water installed on top. They allow you to save space in the room, although they need a stand. These devices are cheaper and simpler than outdoor ones. They heat and cool water.

Cooling

Coolers have electronic or compressor cooling.

With electronic cooling, a Patelier element (tablet) is used. It works more slowly than compressor, but attracts with its simplicity and cheapness. Such units are not recommended for installation in hot or dusty places. They can become clogged or overheat and fail.

Compressor cooling, works on the principle of a refrigerator. These coolers are more expensive, but they are reliable and efficient. They can even be used as mini-fridges.

Cooler selection

The range of these products on the Russian market is quite large, but not all manufacturers produce high quality coolers. The most reliable can be considered: coolers AEL, Ecotronic, Vatten, HotFrost.

When choosing a cooler, it is necessary to determine in which room it will stand and how many people it will serve. For a small room and a small team or family, a desktop cooler with electronic cooling is chosen. It is cheaper and more compact.

If the cooler will be installed in a large office, it is advisable to choose a floor-standing unit with a compressor type of cooling. It is more productive and has more functions. In addition, it can be connected to the water supply.

In any case, the cooler makes people's lives more comfortable. This device is used at home, in offices, shopping centers and children's institutions. Wherever you need hot and cold water for drinking, it is advisable to install a cooler. The functions of cleaning, disinfection, and ozonation of water and products make this unit even more useful and attractive.

Often used to build a large radiator heat pipes(English: heat pipes) hermetically sealed and specially arranged metal tubes (usually copper). They transfer heat very efficiently from one end to the other: thus, even the farthest fins of a large heatsink work effectively in cooling. So, for example, the popular cooler is arranged

To cool modern high-performance GPUs, the same methods are used: large radiators, copper core cooling systems or all-copper radiators, heat pipes to transfer heat to additional radiators:

Recommendations for choosing here are the same: use slow and large-sized fans, the largest possible heatsinks. So, for example, popular cooling systems for video cards and Zalman VF900 look like:

Usually, the fans of video card cooling systems only mixed the air inside the system unit, which is not very effective in terms of cooling the entire computer. Only recently, cooling systems began to be used to cool video cards, which carry hot air outside the case: the first steels and a similar design from the brand:

Similar cooling systems are installed on the most powerful modern video cards (nVidia GeForce 8800, ATI x1800XT and older). Such a design is often more justified, in terms of the proper organization of air flows inside the computer case, than traditional schemes. Air flow organization

Modern standards for the design of computer cases, among other things, regulate the way the cooling system is built. Starting with, the release of which was launched in 1997, a computer cooling technology is being introduced with a through air flow directed from the front wall of the case to the back (additionally, air for cooling is sucked in through the left wall):

Those interested in the details are referred to the latest versions of the ATX standard.

At least one fan is installed in the computer's power supply (many modern models have two fans, which can significantly reduce the rotation speed of each of them, and, therefore, the noise during operation). Additional fans can be installed anywhere inside the computer case to increase airflow. Be sure to follow the rule: on the front and left side walls, air is blown into the case, on the back wall, hot air is thrown out. You also need to make sure that the flow of hot air from the rear wall of the computer does not fall directly into the air intake on the left wall of the computer (this happens at certain positions of the system unit relative to the walls of the room and furniture). Which fans to install depends primarily on the availability of appropriate mounts in the walls of the case. Fan noise is mainly determined by fan speed (see section ), so slow (quiet) fan models are recommended. With equal installation dimensions and rotational speed, the fans on the rear wall of the case are subjectively noisier than the front ones: firstly, they are farther from the user, and secondly, there are almost transparent grilles at the back of the case, while various decorative elements are at the front. Often noise is created due to air flow around the elements of the front panel: if the amount of air flow transferred exceeds a certain limit, eddy turbulent flows form on the front panel of the computer case, which create a characteristic noise (it resembles the hiss of a vacuum cleaner, but much quieter).

Choosing a computer case

Almost the vast majority of computer cases on the market today comply with one of the versions of the ATX standard, including in terms of cooling. The cheapest cases are not equipped with either a power supply or additional devices. More expensive cases are equipped with fans to cool the case, less often - adapters for connecting fans in various ways; sometimes even a special controller equipped with thermal sensors, which allows you to smoothly adjust the rotation speed of one or more fans depending on the temperature of the main components (see for example). The power supply is not always included in the kit: many buyers prefer to choose a PSU on their own. Of the other options for additional equipment, it is worth noting special fastenings for side walls, hard drives, optical drives, expansion cards that allow you to assemble a computer without a screwdriver; dust filters that prevent dirt from entering the computer through the ventilation holes; various nozzles for directing air flows inside the case. Exploring the fan

Used to transport air in cooling systems fans(English: fan).

Fan device

The fan consists of a housing (usually in the form of a frame), an electric motor and an impeller mounted with bearings on the same axis as the motor:

The reliability of the fan depends on the type of bearings installed. Manufacturers claim the following typical MTBF (number of years based on 24/7 operation):

Taking into account the obsolescence of computer equipment (for home and office use it is 2-3 years), fans with ball bearings can be considered "eternal": their life is not less than the typical life of a computer. For more serious applications, where the computer must work around the clock for many years, it is worth choosing more reliable fans.

Many have come across old fans in which the plain bearings have worn out their life: the impeller shaft rattles and vibrates during operation, making a characteristic growling sound. In principle, such a bearing can be repaired by lubricating it with solid lubricant - but how many will agree to repair a fan that costs only a couple of dollars?

Fan specifications

Fans vary in size and thickness: commonly found in computers are 40x40x10mm for cooling graphics cards and hard drive pockets, as well as 80x80x25, 92x92x25, 120x120x25mm for case cooling. Also, fans differ in the type and design of the installed electric motors: they consume different current and provide different impeller rotation speeds. The performance depends on the size of the fan and the speed of rotation of the impeller blades: the generated static pressure and the maximum volume of air transferred.

The volume of air carried by a fan (flow rate) is measured in cubic meters per minute or cubic feet per minute (CFM). The performance of the fan, indicated in the characteristics, is measured at zero pressure: the fan operates in an open space. Inside the computer case, the fan blows into the system unit of a certain size, so it creates excess pressure in the serviced volume. Naturally, the volumetric efficiency will be approximately inversely proportional to the pressure generated. specific kind flow characteristic depends on the shape of the used impeller and other parameters of a particular model. For example, the corresponding graph for a fan is:

The simple conclusion from this follows: the more intensively the fans in the back of the computer case work, the more air can be pumped through the entire system, and the cooling will be more effective.

Fan noise level

The noise level created by the fan during operation depends on its various characteristics (more details about the reasons for its occurrence can be found in the article). It is easy to establish the relationship between performance and fan noise. On the website of a large manufacturer of popular cooling systems, we see: many fans of the same size are equipped with different electric motors that are designed for different rotation speeds. Since the same impeller is used, we obtain the data we are interested in: the characteristics of the same fan at different rotation speeds. We compile a table for the three most common sizes: thickness 25 mm, and.

Bold font indicates the most popular types of fans.

Having calculated the coefficient of proportionality of the air flow and the noise level to the speed, we see an almost complete match. To clear our conscience, we consider deviations from the average: less than 5%. Thus, we got three linear dependencies, 5 points each. Not God knows what kind of statistics, but this is enough for a linear dependence: we consider the hypothesis confirmed.

The volumetric efficiency of the fan is proportional to the number of revolutions of the impeller, the same is true for the noise level.

Using the obtained hypothesis, we can extrapolate the results obtained by the least squares method (LSM): in the table, these values ​​are highlighted in italics. However, it must be remembered that the scope of this model is limited. The investigated dependence is linear in a certain range of rotation speeds; it is logical to assume that the linear nature of the dependence will remain in some neighborhood of this range; but at very high and very low speeds, the picture can change significantly.

Now consider the line of fans from another manufacturer:, and. Let's create a similar table:

Calculated data are marked in italics.
As mentioned above, at fan speeds that differ significantly from those studied, the linear model may be incorrect. The values ​​obtained by extrapolation should be understood as a rough estimate.

Let's pay attention to two circumstances. Firstly, GlacialTech fans are slower, and secondly, they are more efficient. Obviously, this is the result of using an impeller with a more complex blade shape: even at the same speed, the GlacialTech fan carries more air than the Titan: see graph growth. BUT the noise level at the same speed is approximately equal to: the proportion is observed even for fans of different manufacturers with different impeller shapes.

It should be understood that the real noise characteristics of a fan depend on its technical design, the pressure generated, the volume of air pumped, on the type and shape of obstacles in the way of air flows; that is, on the type of computer case. Due to the wide variety of chassis used, it is not possible to directly apply the fan numbers measured under ideal conditions they can only be compared with each other for different fan models.

Price categories of fans

Consider the cost factor. For example, let's take and in the same online store: the results are entered in the tables above (fans with two ball bearings were considered). As you can see, the fans of these two manufacturers belong to two different classes: GlacialTech operate at lower speeds, so they make less noise; at the same speed they are more efficient than Titan - but they are always more expensive by a dollar or two. If you need to build the least noisy cooling system (for example, for a home computer), you will have to fork out for more expensive fans with complex blade shapes. In the absence of such strict requirements or with a limited budget (for example, for an office computer), simpler fans will do just fine. The different type of impeller suspension used in fans (for more details, see section ) also affects the cost: the fan is more expensive, the more complex bearings are used.

The connector key is beveled corners on one side. The wires are connected as follows: two central ones - "ground", common contact (black wire); +5 V - red, +12 V - yellow. To power the fan through the molex connector, only two wires are used, usually black ("ground") and red (supply voltage). By connecting them to different pins of the connector, you can get different fan speeds. A standard voltage of 12V will run the fan at normal speed, a voltage of 5-7V provides about half the rotation speed. It is preferable to use a higher voltage, since not every electric motor is able to reliably start at too low a supply voltage.

As experience shows, fan speed when connected to +5 V, +6 V and +7 V is approximately the same(with an accuracy of 10%, which is comparable to the accuracy of measurements: the rotation speed is constantly changing and depends on many factors, such as air temperature, the slightest draft in the room, etc.)

I remind you that the manufacturer guarantees the stable operation of its devices only when using a standard supply voltage. But, as practice shows, the vast majority of fans start up perfectly even at low voltage.

The contacts are fixed in the plastic part of the connector with a pair of folding metal "antennae". It is not difficult to remove the contact by pressing down the protruding parts with a thin awl or a small screwdriver. After that, the "antennae" must again be unbent to the sides, and insert the contact into the corresponding socket of the plastic part of the connector:

Sometimes coolers and fans are equipped with two connectors: a molex connected in parallel and a three- (or four-) pin. In this case you need to connect power only through one of them:

In some cases, not one molex connector is used, but a pair of "mom-dad": this way you can connect the fan to the same wire from the power supply that powers the hard drive or optical drive. If you are swapping the pins in the connector to get a non-standard voltage on the fan, pay special attention to swap the pins in the second connector in exactly the same order. Failure to do so will result in the wrong voltage being supplied to the hard drive or optical drive, which will most likely result in their immediate failure.

In three-pin connectors, the installation key is a pair of protruding guides on one side:

The mating part is located on the contact pad; when connected, it enters between the guides, also acting as a retainer. The corresponding connectors for powering the fans are located on the motherboard (usually several pieces in different places on the board) or on the board of a special controller that controls the fans:

In addition to ground (black wire) and +12 V (usually red, less often: yellow), there is also a tachometric contact: it is used to control the fan speed (white, blue, yellow or green wire). If you do not need the ability to control the fan speed, then this contact can be omitted. If the fan is powered separately (for example, via a molex connector), it is permissible to connect only the speed control contact and a common wire using a three-pin connector - this scheme is often used to monitor the fan speed of the power supply, which is powered and controlled by the internal circuits of the PSU.

Four-pin connectors have appeared relatively recently on motherboards with processor sockets LGA 775 and socket AM2. They differ in the presence of an additional fourth contact, while being fully mechanically and electrically compatible with three-pin connectors:

Two identical fans with three-pin connectors can be connected in series to one power connector. Thus, each of the electric motors will have 6 V of supply voltage, both fans will rotate at half speed. For such a connection, it is convenient to use fan power connectors: the contacts can be easily removed from the plastic case by pressing the fixing “tab” with a screwdriver. The connection diagram is shown in the figure below. One of the connectors connects to the motherboard as usual: it will provide power to both fans. In the second connector, using a piece of wire, you need to short-circuit two contacts, and then insulate it with tape or electrical tape:

It is strongly not recommended to connect two different electric motors in this way.: due to the inequality of electrical characteristics in various operating modes (startup, acceleration, stable rotation), one of the fans may not start at all (which is fraught with failure of the electric motor) or require an excessively high current to start (it is fraught with failure of the control circuits).

Often, fixed or variable resistors connected in series in the power circuit are used to limit the fan speed. By changing the resistance of the variable resistor, you can adjust the rotation speed: this is how many manual fan speed controllers are arranged. When designing such a circuit, it must be remembered that, firstly, the resistors heat up, dissipating part of the electrical power in the form of heat - this does not contribute to more efficient cooling; secondly, the electrical characteristics of the electric motor in various operating modes (starting, acceleration, stable rotation) are not the same, the resistor parameters must be selected taking into account all these modes. To select the parameters of the resistor, it is enough to know Ohm's law; you need to use resistors designed for a current no less than the electric motor consumes. However, I personally do not welcome manual control of cooling, as I believe that a computer is quite a suitable device to control the cooling system automatically, without user intervention.

Fan monitoring and control

Most modern motherboards allow you to control the speed of fans connected to some three- or four-pin connectors. Moreover, some of the connectors support software control of the speed of rotation of the connected fan. Not all connectors on the board provide such capabilities: for example, the popular Asus A8N-E motherboard has five connectors for powering fans, only three of them support rotation speed control (CPU, CHIP, CHA1), and only one fan speed control (CPU); Asus P5B motherboard has four connectors, all four support rotation speed control, rotation speed control has two channels: CPU, CASE1 / 2 (the speed of two case fans changes synchronously). The number of connectors with the ability to control or control the speed of rotation does not depend on the chipset or southbridge used, but on the specific model of the motherboard: models from different manufacturers may differ in this regard. Often, motherboard designers deliberately deprive cheaper models of fan speed control capabilities. For example, the Asus P4P800 SE motherboard for Intel Pentiun 4 processors is able to regulate the speed of the processor cooler, while its cheaper version Asus P4P800-X is not. In this case, you can use special devices that are able to control the speed of several fans (and usually provide for the connection of a number of temperature sensors) - there are more and more of them on the modern market.

Fan speeds can be controlled using BIOS Setup. As a rule, if the motherboard supports changing the fan speed, here in the BIOS Setup you can configure the parameters of the speed control algorithm. The set of parameters is different for different motherboards; usually the algorithm uses the readings of thermal sensors built into the processor and motherboard. There are a number of programs for various operating systems that allow you to control and adjust the speed of fans, as well as monitor the temperature of various components inside the computer. Manufacturers of some motherboards bundle their products with proprietary programs for Windows: Asus PC Probe, MSI CoreCenter, Abit µGuru, Gigabyte EasyTune, Foxconn SuperStep, etc. Several universal programs are distributed, among them: (shareware, $20-30), (distributed free of charge, not updated since 2004). The most popular program of this class is:

These programs allow you to monitor a number of temperature sensors that are installed in modern processors, motherboards, video cards and hard drives. The program also monitors the rotation speed of fans that are connected to the motherboard connectors with the appropriate support. Finally, the program is able to automatically adjust the fan speed depending on the temperature of the observed objects (if the motherboard manufacturer has implemented hardware support for this feature). In the figure above, the program is configured to control only the processor fan: at a low CPU temperature (36°C), it rotates at a speed of about 1000 rpm, which is 35% of the maximum speed (2800 rpm). Setting up such programs comes down to three steps:

  1. determining which of the channels of the motherboard controller are connected to fans, and which of them can be controlled by software;
  2. specifying which temperatures should affect the speed of the various fans;
  3. setting temperature thresholds for each temperature sensor and operating speed range for fans.

Many programs for testing and fine-tuning computers also have monitoring capabilities:, etc.

Many modern video cards also allow you to adjust the speed of the cooling fan depending on the temperature of the GPU. With the help of special programs, you can even change the settings of the cooling mechanism, reducing the noise level from the video card in the absence of load. This is how the optimal settings for the HIS X800GTO IceQ II video card look in the program:

Passive cooling

Passive cooling systems are called those that do not contain fans. Individual computer components can be content with passive cooling, provided that their heatsinks are placed in sufficient airflow created by "foreign" fans: for example, a chipset chip is often cooled by a large heatsink located near the CPU cooler. Passive cooling systems for video cards are also popular, for example:

Obviously, the more heat sinks one fan has to blow through, the more flow resistance it needs to overcome; thus, with an increase in the number of radiators, it is often necessary to increase the speed of rotation of the impeller. It is more efficient to use a lot of low-speed large-diameter fans, and passive cooling systems are preferably avoided. Despite the fact that passive heatsinks for processors, video cards with passive cooling, even power supplies without fans (FSP Zen) are produced, trying to build a computer without fans at all from all these components will certainly lead to constant overheating. Because a modern high-performance computer dissipates too much heat to be cooled only by passive systems. Due to the low thermal conductivity of air, it is difficult to organize effective passive cooling for the entire computer, except to turn the entire computer case into a radiator, as is done in:

Compare the case-radiator in the photo with the case of a conventional computer!

Perhaps, completely passive cooling will be enough for low-power specialized computers (for Internet access, for listening to music and watching videos, etc.)

In the old days, when the power consumption of processors had not yet reached critical values ​​- a small radiator was enough to cool them - the question "what will the computer do when nothing needs to be done?" It was solved simply: until you need to execute user commands or running programs, the OS gives the processor a NOP command (No OPeration, no operation). This command causes the processor to perform a meaningless, ineffectual operation, the result of which is ignored. This takes not only time, but also electricity, which, in turn, is converted into heat. A typical home or office computer, in the absence of resource-intensive tasks, is usually only 10% loaded - anyone can verify this by launching the Windows Task Manager and watching the CPU (Central Processing Unit) Load History. Thus, with the old approach, about 90% of the processor time flew to the wind: the CPU was busy executing commands that no one needed. Newer operating systems (Windows 2000 and later) act smarter in a similar situation: using the HLT (Halt, stop) command, the processor is completely stopped for a short time - this obviously allows you to reduce power consumption and processor temperature in the absence of resource-intensive tasks.

Experienced computer scientists can recall a number of "software processor cooling" programs: when running under Windows 95/98/ME, they stopped the processor using HLT, instead of repeating meaningless NOPs, which lowered the processor temperature in the absence of computational tasks. Accordingly, the use of such programs under Windows 2000 and newer operating systems is meaningless.

Modern processors consume so much energy (which means: they dissipate it in the form of heat, that is, they heat up) that the developers have created additional technical measures to combat possible overheating, as well as tools that increase the efficiency of saving mechanisms when the computer is idle.

CPU thermal protection

To protect the processor from overheating and failure, the so-called thermal throttling is used (usually not translated: throttling). The essence of this mechanism is simple: if the processor temperature exceeds the allowable one, the processor is forcibly stopped by the HLT command so that the crystal has a chance to cool down. In early implementations of this mechanism, through BIOS Setup, it was possible to configure how much time the processor would be idle (CPU Throttling Duty Cycle: xx%); new implementations "slow down" the processor automatically until the temperature of the crystal drops to an acceptable level. Of course, the user is interested in the fact that the processor does not cool down (literally!), but does useful work for this, you need to use a fairly efficient cooling system. You can check if the processor thermal protection mechanism (throttling) is enabled using special utilities, for example:

Minimization of energy consumption

Almost all modern processors support special technologies to reduce energy consumption (and, accordingly, heating). Different manufacturers call such technologies differently, for example: Enhanced Intel SpeedStep Technology (EIST), AMD Cool'n'Quiet (CnQ, C&Q) - but they work, in fact, the same way. When the computer is idle and the processor is not loaded with computing tasks, the clock frequency and voltage of the processor decreases. Both of these reduce the power consumption of the processor, which in turn reduces heat dissipation. As soon as the processor load increases, the full speed of the processor is automatically restored: the operation of such a power saving scheme is completely transparent to the user and running programs. To enable such a system, you need:

  1. enable the use of supported technology in BIOS Setup;
  2. install the appropriate drivers in the OS you are using (usually this is a processor driver);
  3. in the Windows Control Panel, in the Power Management section, on the Power Schemes tab, select the Minimal Power Management scheme from the list.

For example, for an Asus A8N-E motherboard with a processor, you need (detailed instructions are in the User's Guide):

  1. in BIOS Setup, in the Advanced > CPU Configuration > AMD CPU Cool & Quiet Configuration section, switch the Cool N "Quiet parameter to Enabled; and in the Power section, switch the ACPI 2.0 Support parameter to Yes;
  2. install ;
  3. see above.

You can check that the processor frequency is changing using any program that displays the processor clock speed: from specialized types, up to the Windows Control Panel (Control Panel), section System (System):


AMD Cool "n" Quiet in action: current CPU frequency (994 MHz) is lower than nominal (1.8 GHz)

Often, motherboard manufacturers additionally complete their products with visual programs that clearly demonstrate the operation of the mechanism for changing the frequency and voltage of the processor, for example, Asus Cool&Quiet:

The processor frequency changes from maximum (in the presence of computational load) to some minimum (in the absence of CPU load).

RMClock utility

During the development of a set of programs for complex testing of processors, (RightMark CPU Clock / Power Utility) was created: it is designed to monitor, configure and manage the power-saving capabilities of modern processors. The utility supports all modern processors and a variety of power consumption management systems (frequency, voltage ...). The program allows you to monitor the occurrence of throttling, changes in the frequency and voltage of the processor. Using RMClock, you can configure and use everything that standard tools allow: BIOS Setup, power management by the OS using the processor driver. But the possibilities of this utility are much broader: with its help, you can configure a number of parameters that are not available for configuration in a standard way. This is especially important when using overclocked systems, when the processor runs faster than the nominal frequency.

Video card auto overclocking

A similar method is used by video card developers: the full power of the GPU is needed only in 3D mode, and a modern graphics chip can cope with a desktop in 2D mode even at a reduced frequency. Many modern video cards are tuned so that the graphics chip serves the desktop (2D mode) with reduced frequency, power consumption and heat dissipation; accordingly, the cooling fan spins more slowly and makes less noise. The video card only starts to work at full capacity when running 3D applications, such as computer games. Similar logic can be implemented programmatically, using various utilities for fine-tuning and overclocking video cards. For example, this is how the automatic overclocking settings in the program for the HIS X800GTO IceQ II video card look like:

Quiet computer: myth or reality?

From the user's point of view, a sufficiently quiet computer will be considered such, the noise of which does not exceed the ambient background noise. During the day, taking into account the noise of the street outside the window, as well as the noise in the office or at work, it is permissible for the computer to make a little more noise. A home computer that is planned to be used around the clock should be quieter at night. As practice has shown, almost any modern powerful computer can be made to work quite quietly. I will describe a few examples from my practice.

Example 1: Intel Pentium 4 platform

My office uses 10 3.0 GHz Intel Pentium 4 computers with standard CPU coolers. All machines are assembled in inexpensive Fortex cases priced up to $30, Chieftec 310-102 power supplies (310 W, 1 80×80×25 mm fan) are installed. In each case, a 80x80x25 mm fan (3000 rpm, noise 33 dBA) was installed on the back wall - they were replaced by fans with the same performance 120x120x25 mm (950 rpm, noise 19 dBA) ). In the LAN file server, for additional cooling of hard drives, 2 80 × 80 × 25 mm fans are installed on the front wall, connected in series (speed 1500 rpm, noise 20 dBA). Most computers use the Asus P4P800 SE motherboard, which is able to regulate the speed of the processor cooler. Two computers have cheaper Asus P4P800-X boards, where the cooler speed is not regulated; to reduce noise from these machines, the CPU coolers have been replaced (1900 rpm, 20 dBA noise).
Result: computers are quieter than air conditioners; they are almost inaudible.

Example 2: Intel Core 2 Duo platform

A home computer based on a new Intel Core 2 Duo E6400 (2.13 GHz) processor with a standard processor cooler was assembled in an inexpensive $25 aigo case, a Chieftec 360-102DF power supply (360 W, 2 80 × 80 × 25 mm fans) was installed. There are 2 fans 80×80×25 mm connected in series in the front and rear walls of the case (speed adjustable, from 750 to 1500 rpm, noise up to 20 dBA). Used motherboard Asus P5B, which is able to regulate the speed of the CPU cooler and case fans. A video card with a passive cooling system is installed.
Result: the computer makes such a noise that during the day it is not audible over the usual noise in the apartment (conversations, steps, the street outside the window, etc.).

Example 3: AMD Athlon 64 Platform

My home computer with an AMD Athlon 64 3000+ (1.8 GHz) processor was built in an inexpensive Delux case priced under $30, initially containing a CoolerMaster RS-380 power supply (380 W, 1 fan 80 × 80 × 25 mm) and a GlacialTech SilentBlade video card GT80252BDL-1 connected to +5 V (about 850 rpm, less than 17 dBA noise). The Asus A8N-E motherboard is used, which is able to regulate the speed of the processor cooler (up to 2800 rpm, noise up to 26 dBA, in idle mode the cooler rotates about 1000 rpm and noise is less than 18 dBA). The problem with this motherboard: cooling of the nVidia nForce 4 chipset chip, Asus installs a small 40×40×10 mm fan with a rotation speed of 5800 rpm, which whistles quite loudly and unpleasantly (in addition, the fan is equipped with a sleeve bearing that has a very short life) . To cool the chipset, a cooler for video cards with a copper radiator was installed; against its background, clicks of the positioning of the hard disk heads are clearly audible. A working computer does not interfere with sleeping in the same room where it is installed.
Recently, the video card was replaced by HIS X800GTO IceQ II, for the installation of which it was necessary to modify the chipset heatsink: bend the fins so that they do not interfere with the installation of a video card with a large cooling fan. Fifteen minutes of work with pliers - and the computer continues to work quietly even with a fairly powerful video card.

Example 4: AMD Athlon 64 X2 Platform

A home computer based on an AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ processor (2.0 GHz) with a processor cooler (up to 1900 rpm, noise up to 20 dBA) is assembled in a 3R System R101 case (2 fans 120 × 120 × 25 mm, up to 1500 rpm, installed on the front and rear walls of the case, connected to the standard monitoring and automatic fan control system), FSP Blue Storm 350 power supply (350 W, 1 fan 120 × 120 × 25 mm) is installed. A motherboard was used (passive cooling of the chipset microcircuits), which is able to regulate the speed of the processor cooler. Used graphics card GeCube Radeon X800XT, cooling system replaced by Zalman VF900-Cu. A hard drive was chosen for the computer, known for its low noise level.
Result: The computer is so quiet that you can hear the sound of the hard drive motor. A working computer does not interfere with sleeping in the same room where it is installed (the neighbors behind the wall are talking even louder).

A water cooler is a special device that is used to heat or cool bottled or filtered drinking water. Initially, these units could only cool water from bottles, hence their name "cool", that is, coolness. But at the moment, almost all coolers can heat into water, so you can quickly make coffee or tea. Also, the devices received a variety of design and design solutions.

These devices are used today in many offices and institutions. They are also often seen in houses and apartments. The popularity of such a device is due to the fact that the cooler is relatively inexpensive. At the same time, there are a huge number of devices, in terms of functionality and performance. At the same time, they continue to evolve, they have more and more new functions.

Kinds

The water cooler can heat, cool and dispense bottled or tap water for drinking. These devices can be floor-standing, table-top, with top or bottom bottle installation. Also, these units can be classified into devices, taking into account the additional functions that they provide.

Desktop coolers

Most often used in domestic conditions. At the same time, the bulk of sales among such devices are samples with electronic cooling of the economy category. This is understandable, because home use does not require a large capacity for cooling water.

Floor coolers

Best of all are suitable for office establishments, the various organizations and the industrial enterprises. In most cases, they measure no more than 0.4 m in depth and width. Therefore, such a device can be freely placed in almost any room.

Coolers with cabinet

It can be used to store food, spoons, cups, tea and so on. In most cases, the volume of the locker is 10-20 liters. The coolers may have child protection, which is installed on the hot water faucet. This is an indispensable element if there are small unintelligent children in the house. To use such a device without fail, you will have to use both hands to pour hot water.

Bottom loading coolers

They have a design in which the bottle is located in the cabinet, which is located below. Thanks to this design change, the cooler looks more modern. In addition, with the help of this, the overall height can be reduced by almost 0.40 meters. This makes it easier to change water bottles. This cooler is great for women who have to change bottles themselves.

Compressor coolers

Best suited in cases where there is a need for a significant amount of cold water consumption. For example, such devices are perfect for industrial premises located in forges, foundries and other workshops. Such devices are capable of cooling at least 1.9 liters. in hour.

Coolers with electronic cooling

They will be an order of magnitude more economical than devices that use cooling with a compressor. Coolers with an electronic element will also weigh an order of magnitude lighter. But such devices also have disadvantages. First of all, it concerns performance. So the unit with the Peltier element will cool the water only up to a liter per hour. Therefore, it is recommended to buy such devices in rooms where less than 5 people will use the device.

Water cooler with gas

It also finds wide application. Carbonated water in these devices is created by saturating water with carbon dioxide. For this, special devices are used, which are called saturators or carbonizers. However, for such a device to work, you will need a cylinder into which carbon dioxide will be pumped. A 5 liter bottle is usually enough for 200 liters of soda. But it should be borne in mind that the balloon will subsequently have to be refueled, and this will be possible only in specialized organizations.

Water coolerwith refrigerator

Such a device will be in demand in office premises. The refrigerator, which is built into the cooler, can be used as a minibar, for example, for storing bottled drinks. Such refrigeration devices also allow you to store sandwiches or other food that employees bring to work with them. In most cases, the volume of the refrigerator chamber is 10-20 liters. A number of models have chambers up to 60 liters. The chamber may contain one or two shelves.

According to the type of faucets used, coolers can be keyboard, push-button, touch, pressure, where the application of effort with dishes or a hand is required. There are also models where there are three faucets, one or two.

Device
In most cases, the water cooler has the following device:

  1. bottle receiver.
  2. Cooling indicator.
  3. heating (indicator).
  4. Power on indication.
  5. Faucet for cold water.
  6. Faucet for hot water.
  7. drip tray.
  8. Fridge.
  9. Cooling function switch and switch.
  10. Heating function switch and switch.
  11. Heating switch.
  12. radiator element.
  13. Cable for supplying electrical energy.
  14. Valve that starts draining water.
  15. Grounding element.

Other elements may be present in coolers, depending on the specific model. For example, filters that are designed to purify water, a cabinet, a refrigerator, an aerator, a coffee maker, and so on. Each of these elements performs its own function. So the compressor is used to cool the water. The electric heater is used to heat water. All elements of the device are mounted on the body. In particular, a bottle of water is attached to it. Electricity for the operation of the cooler is supplied through a cable. The grounding element is necessary for safety in order to prevent electric shock.

With the help of sensors, pressing keys or buttons, the cooler is controlled. Indicators show the user the degree or temperature of the chilled or heated water. Additional elements in the form of an aerator or a coffee maker expand the functions of the cooler and make it convenient and pleasant to use.

Operating principle

A bottle is inserted into the cooler body. Inside the structure there are two tanks that are designed for cold and hot water. Water flows from the bottle into these two tanks through the water distribution system, preheated (using an electric heater) or cooled (using a compressor). The required water temperature is maintained by means of sensors that periodically force the heating and cooling system to function. As a result, the water cooler has a supply of cold and hot water at any time.

The unit has intuitive controls and faucets for water supply. When you press the water supply button or open the faucet, cold or hot water is supplied. There may also be a sensory detection of the presence of a glass into which water of a metered volume is supplied when it is placed in a certain zone.

Application

The water cooler is in most cases used as a multifunctional device in office, administrative, educational, industrial, construction and other institutions. These are schools, institutes, universities, technical schools, hospitals, industrial premises, offices of chiefs and employees, design and technology departments, conference and assembly halls, foundries and the like. At the same time, the cooler can be used at home as well.


How to choose a water cooler
The device must be chosen correctly so that it performs the necessary functions, serves for a long time and without problems:
  • First of all, you need to pay attention to the dimensions of the unit. It is necessary to decide where the cooler will be located, as well as how many people will use it.
  • Next, you need to decide on the filtering technology. It is best to purchase a device that provides for multi-stage water purification. Such a system is suitable for those who live in cities. In places of residence where water comes in unsatisfactory quality, for example, with sand, the use of reverse osmosis membrane filters will be required. If water is purchased in bottles, then you can do without filters.
  • If small children will drink water, it is recommended to have an ultraviolet lamp in the cooler.
  • The water temperature maintained by the device should be +98 and -4 degrees. It is desirable that there is the possibility of automatic regulation of water.
  • If the cooler is purchased for a small number of people or home conditions, then it is better to purchase "electronic" models. If more than 7 people will use the cooler, then it is better to take models with a compressor. This is due to the fact that "electronic" models will not be able to serve a lot of people and will quickly fail. In general, compressor coolers will operate without problems in any conditions.
  • It is necessary to pay attention to the technical parameters: the amount of electrical energy consumed, the noiselessness of operation, and so on.
  • Take a closer look at the materials used, design and build quality of the device.

Case Cooling Basics: Fans

After we have explained to you the theoretical basis of the cooling process in the first part of our article, we're ready to take things a step further in our quest to help you plan your purchases and find parts for your new air-cooled PC. I must say that in today's "excursion" there will also be a little theory. We'll talk about case fans, heatsinks, thermal paste, and video card cooling.

Why do we draw your attention to case fans?

CPU Coolers: The Right Thermal Grease

Is there a perfect thermal paste?

From the user's point of view, we must answer this question with a resounding no. There are suitable and inappropriate, bad, normal and excellent thermal pastes. Certain options are suitable for different situations and budgets.

There are two well-known categories of thermal compositions: containing and not containing metals, each category is represented by liquid, creamy or almost solid substances. Specific products such as nano-pastes, liquid metal layer and metallic liquid are designed for professionals with certain skills, experience, and sometimes even nerves of steel.

For a beginner, the number of options that are both easy to use and completely effective seem to be kept to a minimum. Based on our experience, we have concluded that the best beginner spreads are simple, semi-liquid products. It doesn't matter if the paste is a silver-based substance or a product saturated with nanoceramics. The values ​​of achievable cooling performance are quite similar.

In order to test one high-quality paste from the liquid metal product family, we had to replace the Xigmatek Aegir for the benchmark test, since liquid metal pastes cannot be used on a cooler with heat pipes that have direct contact. This is due to the presence of unprotected aluminum.

So we chose the Xilence M606 model (which has pretty similar performance) paired with a 2CF fan and tested several currently available thermal pastes.

Test results for six thermal pastes

Again, we used the test rig from the first part of this short review series and an old AMD Athlon 64 FX-62 processor that can handle three different power levels. This processor makes it easy to evaluate the performance of pastes at different thermal levels. The case of the tested model is closed, the power supply is at the bottom, and the location of the case fan leads to the formation of negative air pressure (fans at the top and in front).

It came as no surprise that we saw that high-quality pasta reached a lower temperature than solutions that we called ideal for beginners, with an advantage of 3-5 degrees.

It's worth adding that you can easily rule out any benefit that enthusiast thermal pastes come with when working with them and applying them incorrectly. On the other hand, if you use a serial product correctly, it will bring consistent results.

Xilence X5 and Arctic MX2 are non-conductive liquid pastes that are easy to apply and spread. Below 100W TDP, the X5 is slightly ahead of the MX2. If the value is higher, then the picture changes and the MX2 takes the lead. In any case, do not forget that a difference of 1 degree can hardly be felt. Both products are inexpensive and easy to use. Since Xilence X5 is also suitable for video cards, we chose the inexpensive X5 paste as a benchmark for other tests and recommend it.


The included spatula is suitable for spreading the paste, but in the next section we will illustrate an even easier and "cleaner" way to apply thermal paste.

CPU coolers: applying thermal paste

Is there an ideal method?

Just as every barbecue enthusiast claims to know how to make a great steak, every barbecue enthusiast has their own opinions on the best way to apply thermal paste. Do you apply it with a spatula, smooth it out with a razor blade/credit card, do you use the one-finger glove method, or just dab the paste into the middle of your processor? During heated discussions, it was suggested that in this case there is no such thing as a method. However, since this article is intended for beginners, we want to focus their attention on issues of ease of repeatability. In any case, no one wants to "fry" their processor. After running field tests on a couple of devices, we settled on the following:

Thermal paste application method: reliable

By pressing on the tube, we applied a small drop of paste right into the middle of the CPU. The correct amount is about the size of a grain of lentils (not a pea). Below in the illustrations you can see the end result, which shows the different volumes of paste.

In order to take these pictures, we placed an ultra-thin transparent film between the cooler base and the CPU. We installed and then removed the cooler. The thermal paste remained between the CPU heat spreader and the transparent film. Thus, these figures illustrate the distribution of the paste as if the cooler had become invisible. Let's look at the results when different amounts of thermal paste are used:

Quantity After applying the paste After cooler installed
Lower limit (minimum)

Upper limit (maximum)

It is important to install the cooler straight. Attaching the cooler to one side and then tilting it so that the unit is in the correct position will result in uneven distribution of the paste. The bolts must be tightened alternately diagonally.

Violations, errors and a small conclusion

There are many methods that lead to similar results when used correctly. However, applying the paste with a glove on one finger seems to be problematic as it will be difficult to decide how much paste is the right one. Moreover, just like with the credit card method, this technique is too complicated and uncertain, since the thickness of the thermal paste layer is difficult to determine without enough experience.

Glove games. You can do this if you have a few years of experience under your belt and if you can appreciate how thick the paste will end up being.

Cheesecake? Too much pasta! Not to mention the fact that everything flows out and turns into a chaotic mass, thermal conductivity is negatively affected and the cooler does not reach its optimal performance value.

Mr Scrooge. Being frugal is fine, but not when it comes to applying thermal paste. This is not enough for the CPU. If you can read the product type and production date code, then the thermal paste is too thin.

CPU coolers: initial launch and test run

First test run

You can never be 100% sure that the cooler is installed properly until you start the system for the first time. Thus, it is important to check the CPU temperature right away. Boot the PC, enter the BIOS and check the information from the sensors. One benefit of checking the CPU temperature in the BIOS is that its power-saving technologies are not enabled yet, which forces the chip to run at full capacity.

Fan speed control

Once you're sure the CPU temperature isn't jumping around and the cooler is doing its job, you can go ahead and optimize the fan speeds. If you are not very familiar with the BIOS, check the user manual for information on where to find each of the settings. PWM-controlled 4-pin fans can be slowed down based on thermal thresholds and set to a target temperature and fan speed. Even fans with a three-pin connector can sometimes be adjusted, albeit by changing the voltage. Either way, the fan speeds up in response to the load and heat being applied to the CPU, saving your ears from the constant buzz.

Stability and stress tests

After setting each fan parameter, you can carry out a load test. Under Windows, you can use the program Linpack (Windows executable: LinX) or Prime95, and monitor CPU temperature using programs such as CoreTemp or HWMonitor.



When reading the temperature of the cores, make sure that the Tjunction parameter is set correctly; otherwise, the readings won't matter much.

Coolers for video cards: we save the GeForce GTX 480 video card from overheating

Non-traditional repairs instead of expensive replacements

Replacing or upgrading a video card cooler is not a job for beginners. Accordingly, we will skip this operation in our tutorial review for entry-level users. However, even a beginner can reproduce our non-standard experiment.

Let's assume you have your own factory overclocked GeForce GTX 480 graphics card (like the one in the picture), let's also assume that your Accelero Xtreme fans have just failed. Of course, your warranty has already expired, and a quick search on eBay turned up no results - you did not find the parts you were looking for. And now what?

Broken means nothing more than broken, and a new set of Accelero fans costs somewhere in the region of $50. Thus, the only option is to pull the fan out of the spare parts box. The new fan can't be any thicker than the original one, as we don't want to block the extra PCI slot, and it should at least show the same performance as the failed one.

Dual Slip Stream Series Fans Keep Your GeForce Graphics Card Cool

We fixed both fans in some random way as we weren't even sure it would work. We also didn't take pictures.

However, our measurements showed that we can be proud of ourselves: the home solution to the problem is thinner, quieter and disperses warm air much better! We get an added bonus: the airflow through the protruding fans also cools the top of the card. Experimenting with 92mm fans that don't stick out as much resulted in an addition of 5 degrees to the temperature, and so we didn't even bother taking pictures.

New fans outperform nVidia factory ones

It's amazing, but it's true. Our ugly ducklings have outperformed the factory-installed Accelero Xtreme fans in every way. Indeed, the fun has stepped aside and has given way to serious numbers! Take a look at the measurement data:


We could take full size 120mm fans and get even better results. However, then the card would take up three slots, which would be too much, in our opinion.

A little digging in the spares box saved an expensive video card from the wastebasket and we even managed to improve its cooling. If we had just bought these fans and they were new, the ~$20 total for both wouldn't blow our budget too much.

Video Card Coolers: Quiet Single Slot Cooler

DIY improvements

Curiosity may have killed the cat, but it also allowed us to work with a different graphics card. Not so long ago we did a review of the low-profile Afox Radeon HD 6850 video card on our German website. In that article, in order to improve cooling, we used two 80mm fans versus the manufacturer's fans. This time around, we want to up the ante when it comes to performance and noise. The result is a fully usable low-profile graphics card that doesn't make much noise at full load. Again, we climbed into the parts box to get a couple of spare fans.


Convert in two steps

In the original review, we used a pair of Enermax T.B. fans. Silence, which slightly protruded beyond the radiator. Since the heatsink is just an inexpensive extruded sheet of aluminum, standout fans don't have any advantage.

Thus, we climbed into the box again and fished out two 60mm Scythe Mini Kaze fans.

Updated results and cooling surprises

Two 60mm fans are a good enough option to keep this card cool in a quiet and efficient manner. Since the fans are non-adjustable, the noise level remains constant, regardless of the workload on the graphics card.


Conclusion

Our DIY experiment got the manufacturer thinking about a new release of this card, which will replace the two cheap and noisy fans. If the missing power connector also returns, then this video card may be among several leaders in terms of price / performance for HTPC solutions. 60mm fans cost less than $20.

Think Cooling Ahead

Brief Summary

It is important to think about cooling issues before you start buying equipment. Choosing the right case, CPU cooler, and case fans will lay the foundation for a successful build. Of course, due to the accumulated experience, we always pay attention to attractive devices, but in this case, a good appearance is of secondary importance.

We hope that we were able to explain some things to newcomers. Even the groundlessness of some methods of applying thermal paste there. Just squeeze out one drop and it's done.

In this article, our goal was not to give you recommendations for buying parts, but to provide a learning guide. Time passes and there will always be new and improved products. Although, in the end, only the best will remain. But the best doesn't necessarily mean the most expensive.

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