Do-it-yourself mobile tool cabinet (detailed drawings). How to make a DIY tool cabinet? DIY tool cabinet

This convenient locker is designed based on the requirements:
✔ the depth should be sufficient to store most portable power tools
✔ there must be an additional sash inside, increasing usable area under the tools
✔ internal shelves must be permutable, both wide and narrow;
✔ the drawer must be fully extended;
✔ it should be possible to install an additional shelf

The main parts of the cabinet are made of 20 mm thick wood. For strength, the legs are glued. The body of the cabinet is assembled from plywood 20 mm thick. This makes it easy to mount tool holders.

The cabinet has used almost every centimeter of its volume, and I hope it will last me for many years. Each leg is glued from three blanks 20 mm thick, that is, a total of 12 blanks. Each pair of legs is connected by jumpers (groove/thorn).

The grooves in the legs are formed during gluing due to selections in the middle workpiece. Each pair of legs is connected by jumpers, between which there is a longitudinal spacer.

When assembling the base, you must first glue the sub-assemblies "two legs / two bridges" Spacer C is sawn to the final length and fastened with glue and screws between the sub-assemblies.

Drawer for tools

To obtain more space for storing tools between the legs of the base, a large drawer with free access to its contents is provided.

The walls of the box are connected "in a quarter", the bottom of the box is made of 6 mm fiberboard.

Before gluing the drawer in the front wall 0, I drilled and countersinked holes for fastening the false panel, which I added later.

Drawer installation. After assembling the drawer, I attached the extension mechanism and installed the drawer.
This is easier to do BEFORE fastening the false panel. The installed box should be 3 mm below the top ends of the legs.

False panel. With the drawer in place, I sawed a G bezel to size. To hide the drawer, the bezel is 1.5mm taller than it and should fit between the legs with a 1.5mm gap on each side.

Before installing the false panel, I drilled and countersinked the guide holes, then attached the handles. To align the false panel, I used double-sided tape.

Frame Having finished the base, we move on to the body - a simple rectangular box connected “in a quarter”. The main requirement for the case is that it must be large enough to accommodate hand-held power tools.

The manufacture of the case begins with sawing out the side walls H, the lid and the bottom I of the final length and width. I made it easy for myself - they are all the same size. Then I sawed the partition J longitudinally in width. I made it a little longer as it is inserted into the body after it is assembled.

Adding overlays. To hide the edges of the plywood, according to the actual thickness of the plywood, I sawed out the K pieces and glued them to the leading edges of each plywood piece.

Sawing folds. The body is assembled on a "quarter" connection. For the rear wall L, in the trailing edges of all parts of the body (except for the partition), I sawed out folds. For the lid and bottom, I sawed out a fold on the side walls of H.

Drilling holes. On both sides of the partition, I wanted to install rearranged shelves. Therefore, before assembling the case, on each side of the partition and on the INSIDE SIDES of the side walls, H marked out and drilled holes for the pins of the shelves.
The shelves on the left side are narrower (smaller) than those on the right. Therefore, the openings on the sides of the partition are offset.

Case assembly. Now the body can be assembled. First, I glued and nailed the side walls to the lid and bottom. Then I glued the back wall L into the folds, which I sawed out of 20 mm plywood.

The wall gives the hull strength and helps keep it rectangular in shape. In addition, it is the basis for tool holders. Once the back wall is glued and nailed into place, you can cut the baffle J to size and insert it between the lid and bottom.

I attached the baffle to the lid, bottom and back wall with screws. Although it could be inserted into the grooves. But the partition is not as wide as the body, so all the slots would have to end. not reaching the leading edges of the bottom and cover.

To install a partition in the case, I went for a little trick. First, put the body on its side. Then I sawed out four inserts and put a baffle on them so that it was parallel to the side walls, while gluing and fastening the baffle to the lid, bottom and back wall of the case with screws.

A little more pin

Shelves Shelves are a little different from what you'll find in most cabinets. Grooves are selected in the edges of the shelves, with which the shelves slide over the pins. If the shelves are not constantly resting, the grooves hold the shelves in place better than if they rested directly on the pins.

I wanted to have rearranged shelves, but didn't want them to look like they were rearranged. Therefore, I sawed out the grooves BEFORE gluing the overlays K. They closed the edges of the plywood, and at the same time the grooves.

Sawing shelves. I planted the M and N shelves so that they fit into the cases with a gap on the sides of about 1 mm. Then sawed a 6mm groove along both edges of each flange for Ø6mm dowels. To do this, I adjusted the ruler so that the disk of the circular was slightly offset. Then, after the first pass, I unfolded the shelf and made the second pass. If the Ø6 mm pin fits too tightly into the groove, adjust the ruler and make a couple more passes.

Having cut out the grooves, I glued the K pads to the front edges of the shelves. Then, to install the shelves, I inserted 20 mm long pins into the holes and put the shelves in place.

Assembly Before hanging the sashes, I attached the body to the base. The connecting element between them is a frame, the details of which are connected "by a mustache". And as a decorative touch, I added the same frame to the case cover.

Sawing frames. To make the frames, I sawed out three O-parts longitudinally and four P-side parts in width. The upper frame on the case has no back part. Then I sawed off the details of the frame “by the mustache” along the length. Front/back parts - 25 mm longer than base width. And the side parts are 12 mm longer than the depth of the base. The ends of the upper side parts are flush with the rear wall of the housing.

Connections "on the mustache" on the dowels. First I attached the base frame. To make the mustache connections strong, I reinforced the connections with dowels. Now the base frame can be glued. When the glue was dry, I rounded the edges of the front and side parts with a cutter.

Base frame attachment. The frame is attached to the base and body above it with screws. I drilled all the pilot holes and set the frame in place so that the back edge was flush with the base, and the overhangs on the sides were the same. Then I attached the frame to the base and to the body (only for the front and back parts of the frame).

Installing the body frame. The frame on the case cover is slightly different from the frame on the base. Firstly, she does not have a back part, but only a front and two side parts. In addition, the joints "on the mustache" of the frame parts are not reinforced with dowels. I just glued and screwed the top frame to the case.

Inner sash Before making the outer flaps on the left side of the case, I added an inner flap smaller than the outer one. It does not cover anything, but only provides additional space for placing hand tools.

Sawing. First of all, I sawed the inner Q sash to size. Then I glued the overlay K to the outer edge of the inner sash and rounded its edges with a cutter.

Loop board The inner sash rests on a piano hinge. But the hinge is attached with screws not to the sash, but to the hinge plate R with a width of 100 mm. The sash is glued into a groove in the middle of the board. With this design, the sash can be locked in the closed position with a magnetic lock that does not interfere with the piano hinge.

Sash hinge. With the hinge board glued on, I attached the sash to the body with a piano hinge. Then, I drilled a hole in the partition, pasted a retainer magnet into it. Then I attached a retainer plate to the board.

External sashes It remains to make the outer flaps assembled on the “shortened tenon / groove” connection.

Sawing out racks and jumpers. First I sawed to size jumpers S,T and U-pillars, providing a 1.5 mm gap at the bottom and cover, as well as between the leaves. Then, on the details of the frame, I sawed grooves 11 mm deep and spikes.

Adding a panel. With both frames dry, I sawed out a V panel from plywood, adding a 10mm allowance around the perimeter for the spikes.

Sawing grooves. The thorns on the panels of the valves are diverse. I wanted to add a decorative groove on the front side of the sash. For this, the front seam of the tenon is wider than the back, I did it in two steps. First sawed 10mm seams on BOTH sides of the panel. Then I cut an additional 1.5 mm only on the front side. Thus, I reduced the likelihood of chipping on the front side. Now the sashes can be assembled and the handles attached.

Sash hanging. Hung the sashes on piano hinges. Then, in order to fix them in the closed position, I fixed two magnetic latches for each leaf in the lid and bottom of the case.

Finishing Usually I varnish products on water based based on two considerations. Firstly, the varnish is easy to apply - you just need to rub it with a brush, let it soak in and wipe off the excess. In addition, this coating is easily restored. If the finish looks worn or there are deep scratches on it, you just need to clean the surface and apply a new coat of varnish.

Tool holders With a little ingenuity, the scraps can be used to make tool holders, on which the latter can be conveniently hung in cabinets or on the wall.

Hacksaw In order not to damage the teeth of the hacksaw, I hung it by the handle. The holder is made along the inner contour of the handle. To do this, I circled the inner contour of the handle on a piece of wood equal to the thickness of the saw handle, then sawed it out and cleaned it.

On the holder, the saw is fixed with a latch attached with a screw.

A hammer Most convenient way hang a hammer - rest the head on two dowels. But it is better to fasten the dowels not to the door, but to a small wooden block, and already attach it with screws to the door. It may seem that the block is an extra detail. But the block has a plus - it is easier to determine the position of the holes on it and drill them at an angle than in a large plywood door.

Files To store the files, I made a small shelf from which they cannot fall out. First, the file must be lifted and only then it can be pulled out. When making the shelf, I first drilled big holes depth b mm. When the files are inserted into through holes, the tapered handles will lock into place on their own. To cut out the gaps, I first drilled small through holes, and then removed the excess wood with a hacksaw.

Samuel Quertifeld, USA
According to the magazine "SAM"

Collect your hand tools and more in this elegant storage that's easier to make than you might think. The design consists of boxes that are easy to make from solid wood and plywood, and a solid base. The lower part of the cabinet with many drawers can itself serve as a small workbench (photo bottom left). The doors are decorated with straight lines of rustication and decorative butterfly inserts, which are easy to make using a special set of copy sleeves (see the article "Decorative inserts without the slightest gap").

Start with a solid foundation

1. From the boards with a thickness of 38 mm, cut out the supports and drawers BUT, legs AT and prolegs FROM according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials". Mark roundings at the corners of the sides and supports (Fig. 1a). Set the saw blade overhang to 6 mm and position the rip fence 35 mm from the blade. Make transverse cuts on the supports and sides, forming shoulders at the roundings.

2. Mark the position of the nests on the sides and supports BUT and also on legs B (Fig. 1 and 1a). By using drilling machine Remove most of the material from the pockets using a 19mm Forstner bit and then trim the sides and corners with a chisel. To achieve accuracy when trimming, a simple device - conductors for stripping nests will help.

3. Saw at the ends of the legs AT and prolegs FROM spikes 25 mm long, fitting them to the sockets (Fig. 1b, photo A). Set the blade overhang to 13mm and move the rip fence to cut 152mm wide cutouts on the underside of the legs A (Fig. 1a and photo B). Use a band saw to file roundings on the drawers and supports BUT, leading the canvas next to the marking line. Then, using a sanding pad with sandpaper No. 150, sand the rounds to the final contour.

With the 19mm slotted blade raised 10mm above the saw table, cut the tenon into a test cut. Then saw out the spikes at the ends of legs B and legs C.

To prevent support A from touching the longitudinal stop, the spacer fixed on it creates a gap that allows you to freely move the part.

The mounting brackets hold the legs B at right angles to the legs C, and the spacer prevents their upper ends from tilting in or out.

4. Sand all parts with sandpaper No. 220. Then glue the base and make sure there are no distortions (photo C).

Brief advice! Fill the void with a spacer. Cut the spacer the same length as the C prong, excluding the spikes., and it will help to simplify gluing.

Build a Hull

1. Cut out the side D, as well as top/bottom E panels with an allowance of 6 mm in length ("List of materials", rice. one). Prepare slats 19 mm wide for the side F and upper/lower G edge trims, bevel them to the thickness of the cabinet panels and glue them in place. Brief advice! Align trims and panels flush with clamps . Add not how many clamps across the glue line to level the surfaces on both sides.

Press the lower edge of the side wall D/F against the prong and mark its final length along the upper edge of the drawer side A.

2. Use a saw to shorten each of the panels D/F,E,G 3 mm from one end, then, pressing the side panels to the prongs FROM, mark their final length (a photoD) and file according to the marks you have made. Saw in the side panels at the top and bottom of the folds for the top and bottom parts (Fig. 1). Then, on the inside of all panels, make a 10 mm tongue to insert the back wall H. Place the side panels on the base legs A-C, fix with clamps, measure the distance between the folds and file the top and bottom panels in length, reducing the measured distance by 1 mm. (This will make it easy to insert the case when final assembly.)

For convenient work with clamps, the bottom of the E/G case rests on stands. After the screws are screwed in, the clamps can be removed.

3. Cut out the back wall H and sand all parts of the body with sandpaper No. 220. Glue the body, fixing it with clamps (photo E). Drill pilot holes with a diameter of 2.8 mm, countersink them and fasten the side panels D from top and bottom E (Fig. 1). Cut out the baffle I, glue it in place, aligning it in the middle of the top panel with a 22 mm offset from the front side of the edge trim G, and secure with additional screws.

There should be a lot of boxes

1. For side J, K and front/rear L, M drawer walls, cut the material to a thickness of 12 mm (Fig. 2). File all sides to width, then cut them to their final length, making the sides 25mm shorter than the depth of the hull and the front and back 38mm shorter than the width of the openings they will fit into.

2. Saw on the inside of all walls J-M at the bottom edge of the tongue, corresponding to the thickness of the plywood bottoms N, O (Fig. 2). On the inside of the side walls J, K cut 6 mm grooves (Fig. 2a, step 1). Attach a piece of wood to the saw blade and cut out 6mm folds at the ends of the front/back walls. L, M, forming ridges included in the grooves of the side walls (Fig. 2a, step 2).

3. Dry collect the parts of the boxes J-M to determine the dimensions of the bottoms N, O. Saw the bottoms out of 6mm plywood, sand all the details on the inside with #220 sandpaper and glue the drawers together.

4. When the glue is dry, finish sanding the outside surfaces of the drawers with #220 sandpaper. J, K in the middle of their width the center line. Also mark the center lines for the rails on one of the side walls of the bottom case. D— I (Fig. 3). Then turn the case over and place it on the workbench. Divide each set of sliding rails into parts. Screw the drawer (narrow) parts to the side walls of the drawers, aligning on the center line with an indent of 3 mm from the front side (Fig. 2).

Install the sliding rails alternately from top to bottom. Moving to the lowest, do not forget to install them on the partition as well.

5. Cut a spacer out of plywood so wide that the mounting holes of the slide rail, placed on the spacer in an inverted case, are exactly on the marking center line located above. Fix the guide with two screws, then install the second guide on the opposite wall. File the spacer widthwise to install the second pair of rails. Continue the process to install all guides (a photoF). Turn the cabinet over to its normal position and slide the drawers back into place. After making sure they are installed correctly, finally secure the guides by screwing in the remaining screws.

6. Cut blanks for false panels P, Q drawers with an allowance of about 1 mm in width (Fig. 2). Sawing blanks to the final length. At the same time, the length of the false panels P for wide drawers should be 6 mm less than the internal width of the case, and the length of the false panels Q for smaller drawers 5 mm less than half of this width. Fit the bezels to the drawer fronts as shown in the DIY Tip.

For temporary fastening of false panels P, Q to drawers, screw 4.5×25 mm screws into the mounting holes for the handles.

7. Mark and drill from the back of the false panels P, Q counterbores with mounting holes for pull handles (Figure 2B). Remove all drawers from the case, except for the bottom one. Align the bottom bezel R in the opening by installing spacers 3 mm thick from the bottom and sides, and temporarily attach it with screws to the front wall of the drawer (a photoG). Insert the next drawer into the cabinet and repeat the process to install all the false panels. Screw in 4.5×25 countersunk screws from inside the drawer (Fig. 2), then remove temporary screws. Now separate the false panels from the drawers again, putting appropriate marks on their back side and the front wall of the drawers so as not to confuse them during final assembly after finishing.

8. Remove the drawers from the case D-I and insert the body into the base A-C. Drill and countersink pilot holes, then screw the body to the drawer sides A (Fig. 1).

9. If you are not going to do upper part cabinet, proceed to steps 3-7 in the next section to make the workbench cover, and then follow steps 4-5 in the Installing Doors and Finishing section to secure the cover and apply the finish.

Build the top case

1. Cut out the side walls R and their edging S (Fig. 4). Glue the trims to the front edges of the side walls. Cut out the lid T and two bottoms U. Set one bottom aside temporarily.

2. Cut along the back edge of the side walls R/S, covers T and one bottom U sheet pile 10×10 mm (Fig. 4). Drill holes in the side walls for the shelf supports (Fig. 4a).

3. For upper and lower front V and side W, X finishing trims cut the workpieces in accordance with the total thickness of both bottoms U, and then file them to width. Cut out the front pads V length equal to the length of the cover T and bottoms U, and on the side parts leave a length allowance of about 25 mm.

4. Insert a slotted cutter with a thickness of 6 mm into the collet of the router, adjust the stop for extracting the tongue with a depth of 13 mm and set the overhang of the cutter so that the distance between its blades and the sole of the router is 13 mm. Attach with a clamp flush with the end face of the front pad V 38 mm thick cut and cut a groove in the middle of the end of the part (photo H). Do the same on the second end. To make matching tongues in the side plates W, X, fix the stopper at a distance of 70 mm from the front end of the part. Route the tongue only along the edge, driving the cutter until its bearing touches the stop. Flip the part and widen the tongue (photo I).

Mill a V groove at the end of the front pad, stepping back 13 mm from one side, turn the part over and make a second pass so that the groove is located exactly in the middle.

When processing the side plates W, X, mill the tongue only on the edge, without going to the end. The rounded end of the tongue will be hidden after assembly.

5. Glue the front pads V to lid and bottom U, aligning flush with the inside and around the edges. After drying, finish sanding the parts with sandpaper No. 220.

6. File the back ends of the side trims W, X so that their length matches the width of the assembled covers T/V and bottoms U/V. Mill 1.6 and 3 mm wide chamfers in the indicated rice. 4b places. Finish sanding the side plates with #220 sandpaper.

Glue the Y keys into the grooves of the V front pad, then add the W or X side pads on both sides and secure the gluing with clamps.

7. For dowels Y file a walnut blank 70x180 mm to a thickness corresponding to the width of the grooves and tongues in the overlays V, W, X. Saw the workpiece into dowels 25 mm long and grind 3 mm bevels around one end of each of them. (Fig. 4b). Glue the key into the groove of the front pad V so that it rests on the bottom U. In this case, the key should protrude 5 mm from the front. (a photoJ). Glue the side trim in place W, then repeat these steps on the other side. Glue the side strips in the same way. X to the lid T. Note. Don't use too much glue. Extruded excess will be difficult to clean out of the recess formed by chamfers at the junction of panels and overlays.

8. Cut out the back wall from 19mm plywood Z and make folds on its edges around the entire perimeter, forming a comb inserted into the tongues of the side walls R, covers T and bottoms U. Sand the back and sides with #220 sandpaper.

A spacer the same width as the X side plates will provide a simple and convenient means of aligning the R/S side walls while they are being screwed in place.

9. Lay back wall Z on the workbench with the inner side up. Apply glue to the tongue of one of the side walls R/S and glue it to the back wall. Glue the assembled lid in place T/V/X/Y and secure with screws (photo K). Then glue the second side wall and fasten it with screws to the cover. After that, install the assembled bottom U/V/W/Y, gluing and fastening with screws to both side walls. Finally, glue the second bottom back into place. U, fix it with clamps and let the glue dry (Fig. 4).

Add doors

1. To make box-shaped doors, cut out the side walls AA, the length of which should be 6 mm less than the height of the opening of the upper body R-Z. To determine the length of the top and bottom parts BB, measure the distance between external parties side walls R case, subtract 42 mm and divide the result in half.

2. Note. The doors use tongue-and-groove joints, the same as in drawers. Cut grooves 10x10 mm at the ends of the side walls AA (Fig. 5) and 10mm dowels along the leading edge of all parts AA, BB. Fasten a wooden pad to the longitudinal stop and slide it close to the disc. Saw 10x10mm seams at the ends of the top and bottom pieces BB, forming ridges included in the grooves of the side walls AA.

3. Dry (without glue) assemble the doors to determine the dimensions of the panels SS, as well as the length of the shelves DD and sides HER. Install the saw blade for cross cutting, remove the trim from the stop and cut the panels exactly to size (Fig. 5).

4. Reinstall the 12 mm slot disc and rip fence. Form 10 mm folds around the perimeter of the panels SS to obtain ridges included in the tongues of the door walls AA, BB. If you want to decorate the doors with butterfly inserts and decorative grooves, read the article "Decorative inserts without the slightest gap."

5. Cut out the shelves DD and bumpers HER (Fig. 5). Mark and mill the slots for the lamellas in the side walls AA and the ends of the shelves. With sandpaper No. 220, sand the inside of the walls AA, BB and panel SS, as well as all sides of the shelves and sides. Temporarily set the sides aside.

Place high spacers under the door and lightly fix it with wedges so that it fits exactly into the opening of the case.

6. Place one side wall on the workbench AA inside up. Apply glue to the grooves and insert the combs of the upper and lower parts into them BB. Then glue the panel in place SS. Lubricate the lamellar nests of the side wall and shelves with glue DD, as well as the back edge of the shelf, insert the lamella and glue the shelf in place. Add a second side wall and then use the body as a template to square the build (a photoL). When the glue is completely dry, assemble the second door in the same way. (Keep the shims that the doors rested on. These will be useful for the final fit of the doors.) Sand the outside surfaces of the doors with #220 sandpaper and install the handles (Fig. 5).

Door installation and trim

Attach the door to the cabinet using spacers at the top and bottom to ensure the gap is even. Install eight screws before checking the correct operation of the hinge.

1. Cut out the spacers holding the doors open next to the cabinet (photo M). Align each door height between the top X and lower W side panels of the body. Shorten two long piano hinges to a length of 1010 mm. Aligning each hinge with the door and side wall R/S case, fasten each half of the hinge with four screws spaced at regular intervals. Close the doors so they rest on the spacers inside the case. If the doors are installed without distortion and the hinges work smoothly, screw the screws into every other hole in the hinges. The remaining screws will be screwed after finishing.

2. Cut out the stop FF for doors and give it a shape (Fig. 4c). Drill holes for the magnetic latches and push them into place. Place a mark in the middle of the top case width. Press a long ruler against the hinges of the piano hinges and mark the intersection with the center mark. Fasten stop FF in the middle of the body width, aligned with the hinge line (a photoN). Having closed one door, mark on it the installation location of the magnetic latch plate and drill a countersunk recess (Fig. 5a). Do the same with the second door, and then fix the plates in the recesses with screws.

Use a square to align the magnetic latches in line with the hinges. Drill and countersink mounting holes in the stop, then secure it with screws.

3. Taking the previously set aside bumpers HER, glue them to the shelves DD and lower details BB doors (Fig. 5). Cut out interior shelves GG, inserted into the body, and edge pads HH. Glue the lining to the shelves. Once the glue is dry, sand the parts with #220 sandpaper.

4. Remove all fittings and additionally sand with sandpaper No. 220 all the places that need it. Then apply a top coat. (We applied linseed oil three times, sanding each dried layer in between with a 320-grit abrasive pad.) After the last finishing layer has dried thoroughly, reinstall the hardware and screw the remaining screws into the free holes of the piano hinges. Fasten the pull handles to the false panels P, Q, screw the false panels to the drawers, but do not insert the drawers into the lower cabinet yet.

5. Drill mounting holes and slots in the cover E (Fig. 3 and 3a). Having invited an assistant, put the upper case on the base, level it at the back and achieve equality of the side overhangs. Secure the housing with 4.5x40 pan head screws, adding washers. Now you can insert boxes into the lower case. Your wardrobe is ready! It will serve for many years, causing admiring glances from everyone entering the workshop.

Equipping workplaces with metal tool cabinets will solve important production issues: organizing the placement and storage of tools, rational use space, safety and high productivity.

Professional tools require careful handling and special storage conditions. Specialized metal cabinets ensure the complete safety of tools: protection against mechanical damage, negative impact environment and theft. Durable and functional equipment allows you to comfortably and safely equip the workplace, rational use of production space.

Tool cabinets - frame structures. Used as a carrier metallic profile. Sheathing - steel sheet.

Cabinets are produced in 2 main types - welded and modular (sectional).

Welded furniture represents the finished design, ready directly to operation. The tank contains sections of a strictly defined size and configuration.

Sectional cabinets consist of individual elements and provide for the modeling of a single prefabricated system in accordance with the functional requirements and features of the premises. The sections are attached to the base using screws. The module assembled in this way demonstrates rigidity, strength and stability sufficient for serious loads.

Metal cabinets for tools, depending on the configuration and dimensions, able to withstand up to 400 kg the total weight of the content. In particular, stationary shelves carry up to 100 kg of load, tablets - up to 20 kg, crossbars can be loaded up to 15 kg.

According to the installation method, tool storages can be floor and wall. To ensure a stable position floor cabinets equipped adjustable legs. Thanks to this option, you can change the height of each of the supports and give the furniture perfect stability on the most uneven surfaces.

Functional "stuffing" of tool cabinets

Models of stationary metal containers for tools have different configurations - in accordance with the catalog of the enterprise's equipment.

Modular designs offer a convenient opportunity to optimize the internal space - the removal or addition constituent elements, changing their parameters.

• drawers, shelves, tablets;
• stationary shelves;
• crossbeams, dividers, partitions;
• hooks and holders;
• hanging baskets (rubber or plastic).

The "stuffing" of industrial furniture is supplemented with perforated panels on the walls and the inside of the doors, which allows you to expand the functional options. The perforation also ensures air circulation in the containers.

Hinged lodgements (hooks of various lengths, clamps, clips) are mounted on the panel and allow you to save screwdrivers, wrenches, pliers, tongs and other small tools in a compact and affordable way. For warehousing small parts, nozzles, nails, self-tapping screws, bolts are convenient retractable containers and shelves. Dimensional - and mechanical tools, locksmith fixtures are placed on reinforced shelves made of sheet steel with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

The number and composition of accessories of the mini-warehouse of the standard series may vary:

• shelves - from 22 to 44 pieces with a height adjustment step of 50 mm;
• boxes - from 12 to 24 pieces;
• perforated screens optimal sizes– depending on the number of the corresponding tool;
• large floor retractable containers - from 1 (for the entire width of the floor) and more.

Metal cabinets are equipped with double doors and are equipped with locking systems. As a rule, crossbar locks are used - high-strength, reliable and durable. For cabinets whose height is more than 1 meter, locks are mounted at 3 points. Silent running and tight closing of the doors are ensured by steel crossbars and plastic bushings.

Cabinets for production and home workshop

Order in the workplace, convenient arrangement of tools are equally important for industrial workshops and home mini-workshops. Right choice metal furniture will provide a production facility and a personal subsidiary plot, a car service or a training workshop with the most appropriate and most useful equipment.

For large-scale workshops multisectional large wardrobes(2100x1045x500mm), consisting of a large number functional elements. This will allow you to optimally place the tool of all types and sizes in the amount necessary for the production process. AT individual farm it is wiser to install compact models of small size that fit comfortably into a limited space.

Neat mini storage small sizes(1800x940x500) are conveniently located in close proximity to the workplace. More voluminous and capacious, containing tool materials for the entire workshop or production site, it is more expedient to place in one place - a single warehouse complex. Modular designs involve the creation of convenient and rational corner options.

In the interior of a mansion or apartment, a metal wardrobe is hardly appropriate. To store a standard set of improvised tools in everyday life, chipboard or MDF structures are more often used. If the stocks of the home master are impressive, they include different kinds mechanical and electrical appliances, then without a strong metal container not enough. Models with parameters (height, width, depth) 1000x1000x500 mm or others are perfect small options, which can easily fit in the hallway, pantry or on the loggia.

A small video review about metal tool cabinets FERRUM (Ferrum)

Production material

In the production of metal cabinets for tools, high-strength galvanized steel sheet with a thickness of 1 to 2 mm is used. It is this material that provides:

• the proper level of resistance to potential damage during the operation of furniture;
• structural strength required when placing massive large objects;
• product durability and reliability adverse conditions environment;
• budget availability of finished products.

Metal surfaces are coated with a special polymer-powder composition for additional protection against corrosion and improve wear resistance. Polymer paints give industrial furniture an aesthetic appearance and additional ergonomic properties.

Comparison with other materials

Metal cabinets for storing tools show a number of significant advantages over similar products made of wood or plastic. Along with the disproportionately greater "carrying capacity" it should be noted:

• resistance to intense mechanical stress;
• fire safety;
• resistance to moisture and temperature extremes;
• durability while maintaining the original technical characteristics;
• resistance to damage by rodents;
• possibility quick installation, re-equipment, reusable assembly and disassembly of structures without the involvement of specialists;
• ease of care, maintenance and disinfection;
• the absence of harmful volatile compounds in the composition of the material;
• democratic value.

A metal cabinet will last in the workshop for many years. Therefore, it is necessary to responsibly and competently choose functional products - optimally comfortable and roomy models right away. Since in the future replacement and dismantling will cost many times more.

Cabinets and other tool competitors

In workshops and production halls, a variety of equipment is used to store tools. Panels, drawers, cabinets, workbenches, carts have their own functional purpose and are indispensable in specific situations.

Tool trolleys are convenient in the car service, providing the supply of tools directly to each car. locksmith workbench With drawers and pedestals - mandatory equipment of a stationary workplace. At field work craftsmen use special portable tool boxes.

When choosing an organizer, you should take into account its functionality and storage requirements for certain types of tools. It is also important to use the interior space wisely and provide free access to production equipment. In conditions small areas or when heavily loaded industrial premises It is not always possible to implement these requirements with various auxiliary elements.

For reliable preservation and convenient systematization of a large number of tools and equipment, it is advisable to install voluminous, roomy and, at the same time, compact cabinets. Such versatile containers will help to significantly save usable space, provide adequate storage conditions for their contents and prevent theft of expensive means of production.

Cabinet assembly

From scattered small details of children's fun, amateur architects create the most complex combinations. The work of the professionals of the manufacturer of industrial cabinets - designers, constructors, installers - is in many ways reminiscent of manipulations with Lego.

The layout and assembly of the future organizer is carried out according to the sketches of the customer. Struggling to choose the best option for your workshop? Experienced experts will develop a unique model of a multifunctional cabinet that will fit all the tools and harmoniously fit into the smallest space. Just as ship models, assembled by skillful hands, “grow” inside the bottle, small garage or utility room, metal modules are quickly and accurately mounted.

The cabinet will "arrive" to the object disassembled. This is another advantage of metal modular furniture– mobility during transportation, loading / unloading. This is followed by the assembly of "super-lego" directly at the installation site.

Universal parts have high-precision dimensions and can be easily matched to each other in various combinations. Therefore, the installation of the cabinet is not difficult and can be done on your own. The company's specialists will help to organize more complex, multi-section tool storages, with hanging cabinets, floor wall and island containers.

It is more expedient to purchase industrial furniture directly from the manufacturer or in a specialized store of branded dealer network. In this case, the customer receives the equipment in accordance with its requirements and applicable technical standards, as well as a full range of related services: project development, delivery, professional installation.

Metal tool cabinets - optimal choice for those who value economy and reliability, durability and versatility, comfort and accuracy in equipment.

Tools are available in every home. Especially if there is a man in it who loves and knows how to make something with his own hands. Some ask the question: Why you need a tool cabinet because they can be put anywhere? But this question is asked by people who do not want or do not know how to make various things at home. House master knows that a tool cabinet is a must.

Hammer, screwdriver and pliers, which are often used for elementary work, can be placed anywhere. But for a large number of tools, a good and convenient cabinet is required. It should fit the entire instrument and, moreover, not take up too much space. For these purposes, cabinets, bedside tables, chests are fitted. You can, of course, use all of this. On the tool storage cabinet quite easy to do. Every home master can do this.

So, how to organize a tool cabinet

Exists a good option such furniture, which is a wardrobe with two wings. The doors swing open, and in the middle part of the cabinet there is a folding table. In the cabinet, you can mount a separate lighting. AT closed it takes up very little space, so it can be installed in a small city apartment. The easiest way to make such a cabinet is from wood.

To do wooden tool cabinet, will need:

• pine boards (thickness 20-25 mm);
• plywood (thickness 10-12 mm);
• wooden bars (section 40X40 mm, or 50X50 mm);
• hacksaw, hammer, nails (30-60 mm), screws (30-60 mm).
• metal corners (100-150 mm and 80 mm);
• hinges (120 mm) and other fittings.

Before you start making a cabinet, you need to decide on its location in the house, with dimensions. For example, there is free space. Two meters along the wall. If the central part of the cabinet is 100 cm wide, then the doors should be 50 cm each. When opened, they will occupy these 2 meters of free space. The height, for example, will also be 2 meters.

Now you need to take the prepared lumber and cut them to size. The back of the cabinet, as well as the back (and at the same time the front) part of its swinging doors, can be made of thick plywood. Side walls made from boards. Between themselves, the boards can be connected with metal corners.

It turns out, as it were, three identical boxes rectangular shape. Now the task is to attach the sashes on hinges or hinges to the central part so that they open and close with ease. But before you do this, you need to fix the central part of the product on the wall. Here, high-quality fasteners are important, since, given that the table will recline in the closet, there will be a large load. Fasten directly to the wall with metal corners. The corners are attached to the boards. Holes are pre-drilled in the wall into which the chopsticks are hammered.

After the central part of the product is fixed, you can mount the table. He is wooden board, which is lowered on hinges in lower part closet. From below, on a table-top, 1 or 2 folding legs are fixed. Also on hinges. Hinges can be used for door hinges. But they must be sufficiently massive and fixed firmly. The table should not be too large so as not to increase the load on the cabinet.

The next stage of work will be fastening the opening doors. They need to be adjusted so that the move is smooth and they fit perfectly in size. To fix the sashes in the open state, special clamps can be provided on the wall.

Tool holder

Now you need to provide for mounting tools. Of course, that all heavy tools should be located in the central part, which is securely fixed to the wall. You can make shelves, hinges, other fixtures. In the doors, as moving parts, lighter things are located. For example, metal or plastic boxes with various small things can be fixed on them. Nails, bolts, etc.

Lighting installation

Of course, you can also install a portable table lamp with a clothespin mount. But it is much better to have separate lighting for such a cabinet. You can also provide an outlet located so that you can conveniently turn on the power tool there. You can even draw a separate line from the distribution electrical panel. The line must be connected via an emergency shutdown switch.

Here you go, tool cabinet ready. It remains only to pay attention exterior finish so that when closed, it fits into the interior of the room. And he fit in well. Don't forget about the door handles. If there are small children in the house, a latch or lock can be provided.

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At good master every tool is in its place. And for sure, many people have their own drawer or cabinet for tools, so that they always have the right thing at hand during the next repair. You can buy a ready-made wardrobe. But it is much more pleasant to make your own, which will meet individual wishes. For good owners, not only the tool lies in its place, but also as for the shoes - the shoes are always cleaned and lie on the shelf in the cabinet. But you don’t need to make a cabinet for shoes with your own hands, it’s better to buy a cabinet for shoes right away and use it.

Making tools

To make a wardrobe, you will need:

1. Boards. Pine is best suited;
2. Plywood sheets. Will be needed for the construction of the rear wall;
3. Wooden bars. They will go to the manufacture of legs;
4. Hinges for furniture;
5. Mounting corners.

Of the tools needed standard set like a hammer, lots of nails and a hacksaw. Additionally, you will need a screwdriver and a jigsaw.

Construction of the outer frame

Having decided on required dimensions cabinet, start cutting out the panels that will be on the sides. Then the back wall is formed from plywood. Pine boards will become the base from above and below.

Corners are used to fasten the panels on the sides and bases. To make the design more reliable, it is worth fixing it all with screws. As a result, a box with the planned dimensions should be ready.

Now we need to attach the legs. They are made of bars and fixed on the structure with nails or corners.

The resulting box is placed in the desired location. If the dimensions of the structure fit into the desired opening, then work continues. Next, you need to divide the box into a couple of parts vertically. A shelf with a thick wall is installed on their border. This will make the doors relatively light and small.

Doors are formed from pine boards, taking into account the size of the cabinet and attached to the frame with hinges. At this stage, a cabinet with doors will be ready, but there is nothing inside it yet.

The formation of the working space begins with the upper compartment. The number of shelves needed is created from the boards. We mount them inside the frame on the mounts. It is then convenient to put small tools on such shelves, such as screwdrivers or keys. You can also place storage boxes on them. Supplies in the form of nails or screws.

Bottom is better to put one shelf. Here they usually store a more massive tool, like a drill or a grinder. But that's not all. For greater convenience, a folding table should be placed in the lower compartment.

Folding table installation

First of all, we form a countertop from the board. Its dimensions should be such that it can easily squeeze into the lower compartment of the cabinet. It is fixed to the very wide shelf that divides the space into two parts. For fastening use hinges for furniture.

The result should be a door that opens up. At the same time, the doors of the compartment from below should open and close without problems. Behind the tabletop, you need to create a leg that will unfold. In height, it should be such that the table is exactly horizontal when it is opened. The leg is attached with folding corners for furniture.

The work is almost finished, and the cabinet now has two full-fledged compartments for storing tools of different sizes and is equipped with a folding mini-table on which you can do small jobs. But you should also take care of inner space doors. They are suitable for placing things that are too long that will not fit on ordinary shelves. Therefore, it is worth attaching some holders to this surface in which you can put tools.

It is advisable to secure the resulting cabinet well against the wall. To do this, the middle space of the product is simply attached to the wall with self-tapping screws. Additional fastening is especially important if the locker is equipped with a folding table.

Do you want to buy a tool cabinet in Kharkov? We advise you to visit the site uhl-mash.com.ua