There are fences various types- from modern fencing with horizontal metal picket fences, which can be ordered on the website zabor2000.ru, up to brick or from chain-link mesh. The choice is always up to the owner summer cottage plot, but when installing or constructing it yourself, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the structure, and most importantly, the distance between the pillars in the 1st span. The stability, reliability and durability of the entire structure depends on this.
The length of the span between the supports is selected depending on the type of fence. The greatest demand is for enclosing structures made of the following materials:
- brick (stone);
- corrugated sheeting;
- tree;
- Rabitz.
Brickwork
When building a fence made of brick or stone, the posts are usually made of similar material or reinforced concrete. The distance between the pillars is mainly ensured within 2.5-3.5 m. They are found with spans of up to 6 m, when the total length of the fence is too large, and finances for the purchase of building materials are limited. In this case, in order to increase the strength characteristics of the structure, it is recommended to additionally reinforce it - additionally lay steel wire with a cross-section of 4-6 mm in the seams between the rows of bricks (over their entire length). It is more expedient to reinforce every 2-3 rows.
There are many design options brick fences- with forged sections, inserts made of corrugated board, wood, mesh, etc. But this should in no way affect the span length between the load-bearing supports - it should be no more than 3.5 m.
Installation of posts for mounting a fence made of corrugated boards, boards and chain-link mesh
It is advisable to use these materials as fence posts profile pipe cross section 40×20 or 40×40 mm. Allowed to use round pipe with a diameter of 40 mm or angle No. 63.
To install the supports, it is necessary to prepare a hole 500-600 mm deep and 300-400 mm wide, place the prepared post in it and drive it a little into the ground. Compact to a height of 100-200 mm with dump slag and fill the base with concrete level with the ground surface. This will significantly increase the rigidity of the fence.
When creating a fence between the posts, you need to maintain a distance of 2-3 m. This optimal values, which, if observed, ensures high structural strength and minimal labor intensity of the process. Increasing the pitch leads to a decrease in the reliability of the fence, its increased tendency to deform, and as a result - unjustified financial costs for restoration.
Just as a theater begins with a coat rack, a well-groomed area begins with a fence. Presence of a fence - necessary condition completion of landscaping of the site. The type of fence, of course, depends on the functions assigned to it.
Types of fences: corrugated, brick, stone, concrete, picket fence, chain-link fence.
Its first and main function is protective, that is, preventing unauthorized entry into the territory of the site by people and animals. The decorative function, as a rule, refers to additional functions, but hardly secondary ones, which means it can lead to heated discussions regarding the materials and technologies used for its construction. The type of fence also depends on the amount of planned investment.
But no matter what fence you choose, you can’t do without pillars (supports).
The strength of the fence depends on the main material of the fence, the correct choice of supports, adherence to the technology for their installation, fastening of the elements (or sections) of the fence, and the optimal distance between the posts must be maintained.
Let's look at the most popular ones and determine what distance from the support post to the post will be the most correct from the point of view of the reliability of the fence.
What can it be built from? The most popular manufacturing materials: board (wooden picket fence), corrugated board, concrete sections, stone or brickwork, chain-link mesh (tensioned or in the form of sections).
Choosing the material for the fence
A wooden fence is short-lived, its service life is approximately 8-10 years. But such a fence always looks aesthetically pleasing and blends harmoniously with almost any stylistic design plot. The ease of installation is also impressive.
A fence made of corrugated sheets is durable, copes well with its barrier function and is durable, given its performance characteristics. The variety of colors and profile shapes of corrugated sheets allows you to show your design imagination at the stage of fencing the site. At correct installation such a fence looks not only neat, but also presentable.
A chain-link fence is a transparent type of fence; it looks light and neat. It is strong, durable and easy to install. The chain-link mesh, if desired, can be painted, which can add attractiveness and harmony to the fence general design plot. Painted chain-link is less susceptible to the adverse effects of precipitation. Such a fence can be made even more reliable by making sections from a metal angle, inside which a chain-link mesh is fixed.
A reliable, beautiful and even slightly monumental version of a fence is a fence made of brick or stone masonry. This fence is installed on the foundation. But it is not at all necessary that the spans between the pillars be brick or stone. Between brick pillars, which are very strong and durable, a transparent or translucent type fence can be installed on a concrete base.
These are the most common fencing options for sites. Based on the above materials, we can offer such types of fence supports as metal pipe, concrete pillar, brickwork. It is not recommended to use wood as a support due to its relatively short service life.
When starting any work, you must first stock up on everything necessary tool and materials. It is necessary to take into account that tools and materials must be selected depending on the type of fencing and supports being installed, and only some of them are universal and will be required in any case. We will need a trowel, a special drill attachment for preparing the mortar, high-quality dry mixes and cement, a bayonet shovel, logs, log holders (x-brackets), a drill (if, of course, it is possible to use a drilling and piling rig - the drill can be excluded), rope, meter tape. Depending on the type of fence being built, you may need pliers, a hammer and nails, self-tapping screws, rivets, and a screwdriver. To protect the metal pipe-post from atmospheric precipitation, we will prepare plastic or metal covers: we will close the end holes with them. If there are supposed to be supports, then you will need brushes and paint.
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Wooden picket fence
When erecting a wooden fence for supports, as a rule, a metal profile pipe is used; transverse crossbars - veins (joists) - will be attached to it. The distance between the posts corresponds to the length of the logs to which the picket fence strips will be attached. The distance between the slats should correspond to the width of the picket fence. If it is necessary to make the fence denser, the distance between the picket fence is reduced to half its width. The presence of such gaps between the slats reduces the windage of the fence. To ensure the strength of a wooden picket fence, it is enough that the distance from post to post does not exceed 3 m. But you should not skimp on the supports: if the supports are installed closer than 2.5 m from one another, it becomes more costly and labor-intensive.
To begin the work, it is necessary to make markings, outlining the location of each corner post. Using a stretched rope between the installation marks for corner posts, we mark lines for placing supports along the perimeter of the site. This marking technique is used in the construction of all types of fences.
If the base of a metal pillar is to be concreted, then it is necessary to prepare a hole 1-1.5 m deep. You can use a less expensive method of installing supports - by driving in metal supports. In this case, this deep hole not needed - 40 cm is enough, taking into account that the total depth should be approximately 100-120 cm, and the hole around the pipe should be sealed with stones or broken brick. The openings of the metal pipe must be covered with covers to prevent the penetration of precipitation. This effective method protecting the pole from corrosion.
After strengthening the pillars, cross members are attached to them parallel to the ground (x-brackets can be used for this). The crossbars serve as the basis for the picket fence, which is nailed perpendicular to the joists. Don't forget that wooden fence it is necessary to cover it with an antiseptic, which will extend its service life.
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Chain-link fence (tension and sectional)
Chain-link mesh has long and firmly taken a position among the favorite materials for fencing areas: such a fence is reliable and does not require special skills for installation. Metal posts are most often used as supports for chain-link fences, and less often wooden ones. Application wooden poles simplifies (it is possible to attach the mesh to support posts using nails), but significantly reduces the service life.
Upon completion of marking the perimeter of the site for the location of the pillars, the pillars are installed in the holes prepared with a drill and concreted using a sand-gravel mixture and cement. Cement mortar must be compacted carefully. Since the windage of such a fence is minimal, it is enough to immerse the pillars to a depth of 1 m, and the resulting concrete pig will act as an anchor.
Having secured the edge of the chain-link mesh to the support, in order to avoid its sagging, you need to stretch a metal cable, wire or reinforcement along the upper and lower contours of the chain-link mesh. The broach is also attached to the support posts, between which the mesh is stretched.
To prevent the mesh from sagging, you can also make sections from a metal corner to which the mesh is attached, and then install the sections to the supports. This type of fence is more durable, but its installation is also more labor-intensive. Moreover, to perform such work it is necessary to master metal welding techniques.
In order for the fence to be strong, the distance between the support posts should not exceed 3 m.
Street lighting is very different from the home lighting we are all used to. Everything here follows pragmatism, functionality and durability. After all, if all this is not observed, then street type lighting will be of little use.
Street lighting
One of the most important parameters outdoor lighting is the correct calculation of the distance between street poles. Moreover, if in the city center this issue is not so sensitive, then in the private sector and on the outskirts, as well as in the countryside, certain difficulties may arise in terms of implementation. Our article will tell you what you need to know about such a concept as the distance between lighting poles.
Features of outdoor lighting
For many years, lamp posts have been actively used for outdoor lighting in cities and villages. Today they can be produced different ways and from different materials(concrete, reinforced concrete, metal).
Purpose street version lighting is to create a full luminous flux for various areas of the city:
- roadways of highways, highways;
- sidewalks and pedestrian roads;
- parks and squares;
- territories of state, public and educational buildings;
- parking;
- gas stations, etc.
Wherever there is a need to install outdoor lighting, a fair question always arises - what should be the distance between two adjacent poles.
To understand why this distance is so important, you need to know what a support for a street lighting option is. This support consists of two parts:
- Light source. Lighting fixtures are always placed at the top of the lamppost. What kind of lamps the support will be topped with depends on the place where it is placed. Powerful spotlights should be used to illuminate highways, but decorative lanterns are suitable for parks and squares;
Note! Street risers with decorative lanterns can be used both by city authorities to illuminate parks, and by private individuals when installed in the garden. With such poles and lamps you can decorate the entire perimeter of your garden.
Decorative lamp post
- the pillar itself. He may have different heights depending on where it will be located. In the city and in the countryside, such poles are usually of sufficient height so that the incident light from the lamps forms intersecting lighting cones.
Note! If you have a dacha, then you can install lamp posts in the garden with your own hands for lighting of any height.
To street lighting could fully illuminate certain areas of a city, village or garden, the distance between the pillars should be such as to form intersecting cones of light.
In addition, the supports themselves can be used to not only hold lamps at the desired height, but also power cables. In such a situation, the distance for supports, unlike poles with lamps, may not be so small.
Features of the distance between supports
The distance between adjacent pillars is called the span. For such spans, the regulatory documentation (GOST, SNiP) has its own rules and regulations. An example of such spans is given below.
Span between pillars
Moreover, each case of installation of poles for outdoor lighting in a city, village or country house will be regulated by various points and have different points of implementation, including the distance existing between the poles.
According to regulatory documentation, the calculation of the span length (the distance between two adjacent pillars) should be based on the following parameters:
- the level of illumination established for a specific area (city, village, cottage);
- the type of lamp (especially its power) that will act as the main lighting element;
- the height at which the lantern will be placed;
- light source option: LED, fluorescent and other light bulbs.
It is worth noting that the optimal distance that can exist between the supports will be 35 m. This applies to both lighting poles and power line supports.
Additional nuances to consider
When installing supports that will be placed along streets, squares and roads (in a city or in a village), it is important to consider not only the distance between the posts, but also their distance from other architectural and/or road elements.
Lighting poles along roads
- there must be a distance of at least 1 m from the support to the curb. This requirement is relevant for highways. For other roads this distance decreases and amounts to 0.5 m;
- for roads where large trucks do not drive, the distance is 0.3 m;
- in the absence of a curb, the distance from the road to the support must be at least 1.75 m.
These parameters, albeit indirectly, can affect the distance between the pillars. Any change in the position of the pole will affect the cone of light produced by the lantern. If it is not possible to comply with such requirements for the placement of supports, then the spans between them will need to be reduced in proportion.
Within the city, the height of lighting poles should be 20 m. But this parameter must be economically and technically justified, as well as convenient to maintain.
How is the required parameter determined?
Any installation of lighting poles always begins with accurate calculations of the following parameters:
- optimal placement of poles with lanterns. Here you need to indicate at what distance from neighboring objects each specific pillar will be located;
- the span that will be formed between adjacent supports.
Street lighting plan
If everything is relatively clear with the first point, since there are specific rules that must be obeyed. However, difficulties may arise in determining the distance between adjacent supports, since this parameter depends on:
- the number of lighting fixtures that will be placed on the pole;
Note! As an external type of lighting, a wide variety of lighting installations can be used here: spotlights, lanterns, lamps, etc.
- height of placement of lamps;
- their power.
Using the above indicators, as well as special tables specified in the relevant sections of the regulatory documentation.
Street lighting standards
As can be seen from the table, using specific parameters you can quite easily calculate the distance between supports that should be formed in a particular case.
Within the city limits, the optimal distance between lamps will be 35 m. But if necessary, the distance can vary depending on the current situation.
Note! In the city, the determination of this indicator, just like in the village, should always be based on the three parameters given above.
Street lighting in the village
It must be remembered that the step ratio lighting fixture to the height at which it is placed for roads and streets is in a ratio of 5:1 for one-way traffic, as well as for rectangular and axial placement of lamps. This indicator will already be 7:1 when using a checkerboard arrangement of lamps.
It should also be noted that the data given in the table are indicated as maximum. They are designed taking into account the required road illumination.
Based on this data, you will be able to possible situation correctly calculate the required span. This will help you not only determine how accurately utility workers adhere to established rules and recommendations, but also do everything yourself. This knowledge will not be superfluous if you decide to install outdoor lighting in your country house.
What is it for
Correctly determining the span between lighting supports will allow you to achieve:
- creation of full-fledged lighting provision throughout the entire section of the roadway;
- high-quality lighting of sidewalks, squares and parks;
- creating conditions for safe movement on roads Vehicle, as well as people on sidewalks and pedestrian crossings;
City street lighting
- reducing the level of illegal actions, which, according to statistics, are committed in poorly lit areas of streets, parks and squares;
- maintaining the city's infrastructure at the required level.
If an error has crept in at least somewhere, then the external lighting system will not be able to perform its direct functions at the proper level.
Conclusion
To determine the distance between lighting poles, you do not need to carry out complex mathematical calculations. It’s enough just to find out all the necessary criteria and use them to find out from the table desired value. Everything here is simple and clear.
Solving the Flicker Problem LED strips on
Every sane owner land plot tries to protect the legal territory from the encroachments of ill-wishers. As a fence, a fence is constructed, which is built from various materials.
Selection of materials on a modern construction market is huge, but you can choose a profiled sheet as a simple and reliable one. Visually it is beautiful and does not require special care. Before constructing this type of fence, it is necessary to take into account many nuances and recommendations.
Profiled sheet
Profiled sheet- this is a sheet of thin metal that has longitudinal recesses (corrugations) of varying depths and can be coated with a special paint and varnish composition. Depending on the consumer purpose it has different thickness and length.
The sheet can be used as roofing, wall, and facade finishing material.
Corrugation height ranges from 10 to 114 mm. Low height (10 – 20mm) is used for finishing walls and fences. Average heights (20-60mm) are intended for roofing works. High profiles (60 – 114mm) are required for the construction of formwork (foundation).
Sheet manufacturers provide the ability to select a layer protective coating for him. This means that the sheet can be painted with a special paint (polymer) in any color or remain galvanized.
The classification of profiled sheets occurs according to their purpose, the presence of a protective coating and the quality of the blank material.
Destination types:
- N– the sheet is intended for flooring.
- NS– the sheet is intended for flooring and wall fencing.
- WITH– the sheet is intended only for wall decoration.
Material for the original workpiece:
- Galvanized thin sheets.
- Thin sheet metal coated with aluminum-zinc coating.
- Thin-sheet aluminized rolled products with silicon coating.
- Thin sheet metal with zinc coating.
Availability of protective paint coating:
- Galvanized sheets with a silver tint.
- The sheets are covered with paint in different colors.
Advantages of a fence made of corrugated sheets
- The material has a low cost compared to brick or oak picket fence.
- Visual appeal, because from the outside it looks monolithic.
- Fast installation.
- During the construction process, the use of heavy equipment will not be required.
- Possibility to choose the shade of the sheets.
- Profiled sheets will last at least 8 - 10 years without additional repairs.
- From sheets you can make not only a fence, but also a wicket or gate.
- Minimum number of components for installation.
Required tools and materials
The tools you will need are:
- Grinder with a circle for metal 1.5 mm thick.
- Metal scissors.
- Long carrying capacity with the ability to connect to a 220 V network.
- Drill and screwdriver.
- Hex adapter for combination with the heads of special self-tapping screws.
- Bayonet and pick-up shovel.
- Sledgehammer.
- Manual tamping.
- Roulette and building level.
- Welding machine and electrodes.
Necessary materials:
- Profiled sheets.
- Round metal pipe (diameter 100 mm, thickness 5 - 6 mm) or square profile (10 × 10 cm, wall thickness 5 mm).
- Rectangular metal profile 20×40 mm with a thickness of 2 – 2.5 mm.
- It is possible to use concrete and rubble stone to strengthen the pillars.
- Special self-tapping screws with rubber waterproofing gasket.
Installing a corrugated fence with your own hands
The construction of the fence must take place in stages, which includes:
- Accurate marking of terrain and locations for support pillars.
- Installation of pillars.
- Installation of logs between pillars.
- Attachment metal sheets to the frame.
- Installation of gates or wickets.
Perimeter marking
Along the entire length of the future fence, marks are placed on the ground for support posts, both for the fence and for the gate or wicket. This can be done by driving wooden pegs into the ground or simply pouring a pile of sand.
When marking, it is necessary that the marks are located at the corners of the fence and in places of possible bends (changes in the straight direction). To ensure that the pillars are in the same plane, a nylon thread is stretched between the corner pegs, which will later serve as a guide for the intermediate pegs.
Installation of support pillars
Initial stage installing pillars (supports) in the ground involves digging holes, but not all of them in a row, but those in which the main (guide) supports will be installed. This corner places and places of bends. The depth of the pits should be at least 1.2 - 1.5 m and a width of 15 - 20 cm, which contributes to the stability of the pillars under various types of influence on them (mechanical or natural interference).
Next, pour into the bottom of the hole a little coarse crushed stone and compacted. After this, you need to measure the depth of the hole and transfer (mark) this indicator to the surface of a round pipe or square profile. To the indicated length it is necessary to add the height of the corrugated sheet and add 2 - 3 cm, which will subsequently serve as the lower gap between the soil and the sheet (natural ventilation).
When all the marks have been made, from total length profile, an unnecessary section is cut off with a grinder.
Having prepared the profile for installation, it is placed in a hole and 1/3 of the depth of the hole is filled with crushed stone. A layer of pre-prepared concrete is poured on top of it. During pouring, it is necessary to monitor the vertical level of the post. According to this scheme, all other corner pillars are installed, but at the same time, monitoring their height relative to the ground.
To avoid discrepancies in performance, a rope is stretched between their tops, which should show a horizontal zero mark when checked with a building level.
When the main pillars are installed, you should proceed with the installation of intermediate pillars according to the same principle. Stretched auxiliary guide ropes guarantee correct location pillars and their surface height. In order to prevent moisture from penetrating into the support pillars, they top part welded with metal plates.
Eg, if a sheet 2 m long is selected, and the depth of the dug hole is 1.2 m and a gap of 3 cm is selected, then the length of the metal pillar should be 3.13 m, taking into account the 10 cm layer of crushed stone previously poured onto the bottom.
After installing all the pillars V construction works stop for 7 - 10 days so that the concrete acquires the necessary hardness.
There is another method of installing pillars– manual driving into the ground. To do this, one person holds the pipe in a vertical position, and the second hammers it in with a sledgehammer on the top of the pipe. It is worth noting that this method requires enormous physical expenditure and time from the participants in the process, therefore it is of little use in construction.
Installation of support beams
In order for the profiled sheets to become a full-fledged fence, it is necessary to build a metal sheathing between the posts to which they will be attached. To do this, it is necessary to secure the logs between the pillars.
The number of lags may vary, depending on to a greater extent it depends on the height of the sheets. For standard height a sheet of 2 meters requires two parallel logs at the bottom and top of the pillars, respectively.
Marks are made on the pillars at the top and bottom along which the logs will be mounted. It is necessary to retreat 20 cm from the upper and lower edges. The width between them will be within 1.6 m, which is quite acceptable. They are used as lags metal profiles with a section of 20×40 mm or 20×45 mm.
To secure the profile between the steel posts, you first need to measure the distance between them and use a grinder to cut the required piece from the workpiece. It is recommended to fasten by welding, which guarantees the reliability of the joining points.
If you have no experience in welding, you can fasten the profiles using L-shaped metal corners, but this process has several disadvantages: labor intensity and duration. And the most important nuance of this type of fastening is the possible loosening of the fastening elements and subsequent vibrations of all sections of the fence.
Fastening corrugated sheeting to a metal frame
When the frame is assembled with your own hands and tested for strength– you should begin installing the corrugated sheet. To carry out fastening, at least two people will need to be involved in the process. One will hold the sheet correctly relative to the frame, and the second will fasten it.
You should start from one of the corner posts. When leaning the sheet against the frame, you need to monitor the horizontal and vertical planes sheet, because in the future the slightest deviations from the zero mark threaten with unevenness of the sheets.
After leveling the sheet, it is fixed to metal joists special self-tapping screws with a drill-shaped tip. This type of self-tapping screw does not require the usual drilling of holes - it will go deeper into the body of the profile itself. Thanks to the wide hexagonal head with a rubber gasket, the self-tapping screw securely fastens the corrugated sheet and does not scratch its surface.
Initially, 4 screws are enough for one sheet, screwed into its corners. The second sheet is leaned against the first in such a way that the joining strips overlap and are fastened in the same way. The whole process is repeated identically with all subsequent sheets.
Upon completion of fastening all sheets along the perimeter or a separate part of the fence, you need to return to the first sheet and secure it completely. To do this, a self-tapping screw is screwed into each recessed wave of the sheet. Fastening the remaining sheets is repeated identically to the first. When the top and bottom sheets are properly secured to the frame, the fence is considered almost ready.
Caring for a corrugated fence
A modern fence will last longer if you follow a few rules:
- When contamination in the form of oil stains appears on the surface of the sheets or a heavy layer of dust, they must be removed using warm soapy water and a soft cloth. The wet surface is immediately wiped with a dry cloth so as not to leave streaks.
- Do not use abrasive sponges or similar analogues when cleaning the surface.. They can damage the paint layer, and in the future the metal may be subject to corrosion.
- After cleaning the sheets do not need in additional polishing with wax aerosols.
The optimal distance between corrugated fence posts
The distance between brick pillars or imitation brick can be from 2 to 3 meters. Many experienced specialists recommend a distance of 2 -2.5 meters. This perfect option for convenient fastening of sheets and reliability of support posts.
Of no small importance is the possibility of non-joining (welding) of two profiles with a larger width, because the standard length of a profile is considered to be 2.5 m. Solid profile - will last much longer. 
How to extend the service life of a fence made of corrugated sheets?
Since the material for the fence is quite durable (designed for 25 years of service), it does not require special care, but Some nuances during operation should be adhered to:
- Do not clean the surface with metal brushes or use powder detergents.
- Do not expose the surface to chemical solutions, namely solvents.
- Avoid deep scratches that expose the metal to corrosion. If they are detected, they are immediately painted over with paint or clear varnish.
- Do not light a fire near the fence or install a barbecue, because high temperature paintwork may crack.
- All metal carcass and the pillars must be coated with a special water-repellent impregnation once a year.
Conclusion
Installing a fence made of corrugated board is quite simple and does not require high knowledge of the process. The fence will delight the eye for many years and without special methods of caring for its surface. This type fence - ideal a budget option for all land owners.
27.05.2012 04:11
Most popular country fence today is chain link fence. Mass recognition and interest of summer residents
deserved it for a reason. The main advantage is price for chain link fence. Cost of installing a chain link fence
,
in comparison with other types of fences, it differs significantly, of course, to a lesser extent. Low price for a chain-link fence is determined by two indicators: the price of the material and the cost of installation. The price of chain-link mesh, or to be more precise, one roll today ranges from 280 to 550 rubles. The cheapest is a galvanized chain-link mesh with a small wire diameter, and the most expensive is a polymer-coated chain-link mesh. Color polymer coating mesh netting has virtually no effect on the price of the product. As for installing a chain-link fence, we can say - “a chain-link fence can be easily installed with your own hands, without the use of special installation tools.” ASK Egida company will help you understand all the intricacies of this type of work.
Instructions for installing a chain-link fence
Before installing the fence, we mark the corner posts and the installation location. entrance gate with a gate. Corner posts 
It is recommended to concrete them, since the main force from the tension of the mesh will be distributed on them. Posts for installing chain-link mesh are mainly used with a round section, with a diameter of 38 to 60 mm, a length of 1.5 to 4 meters, depending on the type of soil and the purpose of the fence. The most common height of a chain-link mesh roll is from 1200 to 1500 mm, and the length is from 10 to 15 meters. After installing the corner posts, we stretch the twine between them along the top and bottom. The bottom twine is necessary for straight-line marking of the fence between the main corner posts. The top twine will later serve to mark the height of the fence 
and horizontal alignment. Next stage Installing a chain-link fence consists of determining equal distances between the posts and their number. Example:
- Let's say the distance between the corner posts is 36 meters. The distance between adjacent pillars should be 2.5 meters.
- We divide the length of one side of the fence by the distance between adjacent posts 36: 2.5 = 14.4 We got required amount pillars - 14.5 pieces. Next, we divide the distance between the corner pillars (36 m) by the number of pillars obtained (14.5 pieces) 36:14.5 = 2.48 meters. We have determined the distance through which the pillars need to be installed from each other. It was 2.48 meters. You don’t have to catch millimeters, since visually on such a flight they will not create problems with asymmetry.
Having determined the distances, we choose the method of installing the posts for the chain-link fence. There are three of them. The first is the simplest: driving a post into the ground. Performed using a unified device. If you hammer with a regular sledgehammer, there is every chance of denting the pipe heads and ruining marketable condition future fence. Be careful. The next type of installation of a fence pipe is layer-by-layer crushed stone with a tamper. Refers to the cheapest and at the same time in a reliable way installations. This type of installation completely eliminates winter heaving and squeezing of the pole out of the ground. The last type of installation includes the two previous methods, only together with them there is a parallel process of concreting, both partial, only the upper part of the column, and complete to the depth of soil freezing.
Well, the pillars are installed, and it’s time to execute installation of chain-link mesh. Installation of chain-link mesh begins with unrolling the mesh rolls along installed poles. Next, you need to connect the edges of adjacent rolls together so that you get a single mesh equal to the length of one side of the section. Tying the ends of adjacent rolls is performed as follows: it is necessary to unscrew the outer wire from the end of one roll, then both ends of the adjacent rolls are aligned with each other, and the unscrewed wire is screwed back in, connecting both ends. In this way, all other rolls are connected to each other.
After weaving mesh chain link Let's start the final stage 
installing a fence, hanging the mesh on mounted poles. Here you will need an assistant; stretching the chain-link mesh alone is a very tedious task. Two people lift the net from the ground and lean it against the posts. If there are pre-prepared mustaches on the pillars, then the chain-link mesh is put on them. If there are no such mustaches, then the chain-link mesh is fixed to the first post using metal clamps or plastic ties. Next, one person goes ahead and lifts the net, and the second tightens it and fixes it on the pole with clamps. Thus, the entire perimeter is hung out. To avoid wire sagging in the future, this especially happens in winter period when the mesh is covered with wet snow and it sags under its weight, you need to pass it along the top mesh fence steel wire. It is passed between the upper mesh cells along the entire perimeter of the fence. After installing it, you will forget about the problems associated with the sagging of the fence. Article prepared by the company
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