How to make a spike connection. The method of connecting the beam "thorn - groove. Natural wood finish

Even a small inaccuracy, multiplied by the number of spikes, can spoil the spike connection, which is considered one of the most capricious in manufacturing. The fixture described below provides accurate and fast production spike connection for drawers. In addition, with a single device, you can make spikes different sizes.

The fixture consists of three main parts - a base that is attached to the milling table with clamps, a movable slide with a vertical stop and interchangeable pads for making spikes of various sizes. All parts of this fixture are made from 19mm birch plywood and solid wood. The parts are just glued together. The length of the base depends on the width milling table. Measure the distance from the right edge to the axis of the cutter. To measure, insert a V-shaped cutter into the scurvy. The sharp tip of the cutter is located exactly on the axis of rotation. Add 70 mm to the resulting size to determine the length of the base (in our case, 356 mm). Then make the fixture shown in the picture.

To ensure that the sled slides easily along the base, ensure a small gap when assembling by inserting pieces of paper between the base and the slides. If you plan on using a jig to make different sizes of spikes, make some replacement pads. You will have to install a new overlay when changing to a different size. To make a T-slot in the overlay, first select the center of the slot with a straight cutter, then use the T-slot to make the final pass.

The dimensions of the lugs and spikes depend on the diameter of the cutter being used, but since the adjustable pads are interchangeable, you can choose any cutter size. To make the joints look neat, that is, they begin and end with whole spikes and lugs, the width of the parts must be a multiple of the diameter of the cutter. For adjustment, make two trial blanks from scraps, having the same length and thickness as the sides of the box, but 3 mm wider than the final height of the box.

Even small dimensional deviations add up in multiple passes to form a joint. Therefore, leave a small margin in width on the blanks in order to avoid unpleasant surprises later. You can easily remove the rest of the allowance when the connections are ready.

Now install the jig on your router table, set it up and make a crate in 12 easy steps.

Choose a cutter according to the thickness of the parts, for example to make 6 mm wide dowels in 6 mm thick walls. But you can take a cutter with a larger diameter for making larger spikes.

Secure the fixture base to the router table by aligning the cutter to the center of the cutout. Place the workpiece on the base and set the overhang of the cutter so that it protrudes slightly from above.

Install a slide with a vertical stop over the base and fix the overlay by aligning its ends flush with the slides. Slide the sled forward to make a notch-eye in the overlay with a milling cutter.

Make a T-square out of the scraps to fix the distance from the edge of the milling table to the overlay. The T-square must have sufficient height so that its end rests against the overlay.

Saw out a square-section template from hardwood that fits snugly into the cutout of the lining. Saw it into two pieces and put them together to move the overlay.

Remove the T-square and slats, then make a second eyelet cutout in the overlay. Cut the pin stop to a length of 51 mm and glue it into the new lug flush with the back of the pad.

To check the settings, press the edge of the test piece against the pin stop. Slide the slide forward to make the first lug in the workpiece.

Slide the first lug onto the pin stop and mill the second lug. Continue the operation to completion, each time putting a new eye on the pin stop.

To form the first cut at the corner of an adjacent workpiece, insert the second part of the rail between it and the pin stop. After making the first pass, set the rail aside.

Press the corner notch against the pin stop and make a second pass. Consistently form all the spikes and lugs of the connection. File the sides of the box to the final width, removing incomplete spikes.

Carry out a trial assembly of the connection. It should be easily connected by the force of the hands, but not separated under its own weight. If required, change the settings.

Branded clamps for gluing boxes allow you to compress parts with protruding ends of the spikes, but at the same time distribute the pressure on the entire connection.

In order for the spike connections of the boxes to be flawless, follow the tips:

• Before making connections, arrange the sides of the box in the way they will be finally glued together and mark them. In order not to confuse their orientation, mark the outer and upper sides of each wall. Remember that connections on opposite walls must be made in the same way.
• An ascending helix cutter gives a cleaner cut with a minimum of chipping. In addition, the cutting forces during the operation of such a cutter are directed downward, pressing the workpiece against the table and preventing it from rising.
• When processing wood that is prone to chipping, attach the unnecessary trim to the front edge of the workpiece using double-sided tape.
• Always make the spikes a little longer; their protruding ends can be easily removed by grinding or copying cutter after the box is assembled. To prevent chips from appearing on the extreme spikes, press a piece of bar or board against them with a clamp.
• If the bottom of a box with straight spikes is to be inserted into the tongues of the walls, assemble the box dry, fix the walls with clamps and select the tongues from the inside with a slotted cutter with a bearing. Then make roundings on the corners of the bottom in accordance with the radius of the cutter.
• Glue the boxes within 24 hours after making the connections. Leaving parts for several days can cause the spikes to shrink or swell, making assembly difficult or even impossible.
• Bonding four joints with a large number spikes and eyelets makes you hurry. Save time by only applying glue to the inside edges of the spikes.

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Now you will see how to make a strong and inconspicuous connection of 100 x 100 mm pine bars.

The master is going to cut a spike that will go into the "receiving" bar by 50 mm. To do this, he measures 50 mm from the end and draws lines on all side faces of the bar.

Then he draws the middle line on the longitudinal edge of the bar and measures 1 cm from it in both directions. Overall Width the spike is 2 cm. In the transverse direction, measure 50 mm in both directions.

Now you can start filing the spike. The easiest way to do this is with a hacksaw. Make cuts from the end to the previously drawn lines. Now cut off the excess material on both sides. Be very careful not to saw through the spike itself.

clean up saw the surface with a sharp chisel. When doing this, always keep the chisel with the chamfer facing you. Now you need to cut 50 mm on the sides. For this, the master also uses a hacksaw.

The spike is ready. The master measures its exact length and width. Now these dimensions need to be transferred to the "receiving" bar. The width of the spike is 20 mm, the width of the groove for it should be the same.

To make sure the spike will sit exactly in the middle, the craftsman draws a 37.5mm line on a 75mm wide post. Then, with a 20 mm drill, the master drills holes exactly to the size of the ledge.

So, four holes were drilled, corresponding to the width of the spike. Now they need to be combined and cleared with a sharp chisel, making sure not to go too deep. When the groove is cleared, try to insert a spike into it a little. It should slide into the groove quite easily.

Drive in the spike and check if it fits well and fits correctly.

After that, you need some glue. It is best to use a foaming polyurethane adhesive, which ensures reliable fastening of parts. Apply glue only to the end of the spike. Carefully push the spike into place.

The connection is ready, the parts are fastened firmly. But you can make the connection even stronger. Make a mark on the outer middle and drill a hole for the wooden dowel.

Length through hole is 100 mm. Cut a piece of 16mm round pine lath about 120mm long, it should protrude slightly from both sides of the timber. It's better to use pine rather than solid wood. Pine wood, being wet, expands a little and reliably jams the structure. This does not happen with hardwoods. The drill should be the same size as the wood dowel.

Sharpen the dowel a little on one side and lubricate it well polyurethane adhesive. Lubricate the hole with glue as well. Insert the wooden dowel so that it sticks out a little on both sides. Let the glue dry before continuing.

Now cut off the protruding end of the liner with a fine-toothed hacksaw on one side. Turn the design over and cut off the other protruding end. The connection is ready. The connection point can only be seen by the round insert. But it will not be visible after staining or applying another coating.

Dovetail, detachable spike connection (trapezoidal grooves), used in mechanical engineering and joinery for reliable fastening of parts to each other. In this material, we will consider the manufacture of devices that facilitate the production of grooves in a tree using a manual milling cutter.

Do-it-yourself wood router accessories

The machine itself is a very ancient invention of mankind, descriptions of the principles of milling appeared in the 16th century, and the prototype of the machine was the invention of Leonardo da Vinci, who proposed rotating a round file to increase the processing of the product, which can be considered the first analogue of a cutter.

And already the American inventor Eli Whitney over the years of his life from 1765 to 1825 brought to mind all the scattered attempts to create a full-fledged machine, for which he is rightfully considered the creator of the first milling machine although not all scientists agree with this statement.

And since the machine has such ancient roots, there are a great many devices for the manufacture of various parts, to describe them all in the light this material is not possible, and therefore we will consider only some of them, in my opinion, the most important and useful.

Universal device for tongue and groove connection

factory plate for making tongue and groove joints

It is used with a router for cutting the corresponding grooves and spikes, it is installed in a vise, and the part is pressed against the device with a clamp. Usually sold in stores.

appearance connections

Consider slot milling fixtures

Saw out upper part- 18mm plywood tabletop 40cm long and wide enough to handle the thickest piece you plan to stud.

Cut two 5x10 cm bars, sawing them the same length as the top. In the future, the bars will play the role of clamping the workpiece and centering it relative to the groove in the tabletop. To prepare the top, draw a line through the center of the top, then cut a groove along the line from one end.

schematic representation of the tooling

note

The notch should be the same width as the copy ring you will be using with your cutter. The notch should be long enough to match the length of the longest slot you are going to cut.

Then mill two adjustment slots perpendicular to the center line. Finally, drill a viewing hole between these two slots. To assemble the entire structure, screw the bolts into the jaws and secure the top to the bars with wing nuts and washers.

To use our equipment, draw a groove on the workpiece and mark the center line on it. Loosen the thumbs and set the blanks between the bars so that the center line connects with the top line of the fixture, check that the edge of the blank is against the edge of the top.

Hold the lambs. Align the router bit with one end of the slot drawing, then mark guide lines on the top surface of the table along the edge of the router base.

How to work with snap-in tongue and groove

Repeat this one more time to mark the lines of the other end. Mill the groove, at the bottom, starting the cut by aligning the base of the router with the first auxiliary line, and stop milling when the insert reaches the second auxiliary line.

Reliability and aesthetics complex structures from wood depends largely on right choice way to connect it constituent parts. This is especially true for frame products, load-bearing structures, where safety parameters come to the fore.

Quality connection wooden parts- a guarantee of durability, the basis of an attractive type of product, an indicator of the skill and professionalism of a carpenter and joiner.

Connection type selection

In general, there are a huge number of types of joints of wooden blanks, so you can only talk about some of them, the most common.

One of the most simple ways to build up a wooden part (beam, log, board), to increase its width is the end connection. There are several options for its implementation. Often a simple and functional half-thickness (half-tree) method is used. Depending on the expected load on the part, the cut can be even or oblique. In some cases, the joint is strengthened with curly cutouts - locks. This type of connection prevents stretching, twisting, bending. So the timber is spliced ​​together for the purpose of lengthening.

Creating three-dimensional frames or wooden frames Requires secure connections different angles. In this case, it is rational to use a thorn-groove or thorn-eye connection. The nodes at the junction of the parts withstand the load of displacement, bending and compression. If the design requires high tensile strength, cutouts are made in a trapezoidal shape.

Additional connections of frame products, giving rigidity to the structure, are implemented using T-shaped or cruciform connections. The main load at the joints is compression, displacement and rupture. In special cases, the design is additionally reinforced metal corners, screws or nails.

To connect the boards to each other in box structures at a right angle, it is convenient to use a special box groove. As the name implies, this method is often used to create three-dimensional structures, including furniture boxes. A well-made box joint looks monolithic, has an attractive appearance and can withstand impressive loads. While creating wooden furniture often use a connection on dowels, dowels and dominoes (when the groove has an oblong shape, as opposed to a round dowel).

Spike connection (thorn groove)

The simplest and one of the most reliable is the thorn-groove connection. It is widely used in carpentry. In a similar way, wooden parts of window frames are assembled into a single whole, a variety of parts of cabinet furniture, plywood sheets are made. essence this method consists in the fact that a spike is made at the end of one part to be connected, which is inserted into the groove of another part and fixed in it.

For work it is convenient to use a special lamellar milling cutter, in the absence of such, you can get by with a simple hand tool. You will need:

• hand saw with a fine tooth;
• electric or hand drill;
• several chisels of different widths;
• sandpaper;
• measuring tool, square and pencil.

First mark the blanks. The parameters of the tongue and groove depend on the parameters of the wooden parts and the configuration of the product, however, it is worth considering a few general recommendations.

Important! The thickness of the spike should be about a third of the thickness of the part, the width should be 70-80% of the width, the length should be equal to the thickness of the workpiece to be joined.

The groove parameters must also meet these criteria. In any case, it is important to ensure that the dimensions of the tongue and groove match. Parts should be connected easily, without pressure, but not fall out under their own weight. There should be no backlash, cracks and distortion.

The groove is cut first, this sequence is due to the fact that the spike is much easier to fit under the groove than vice versa. With the help of a saw, cuts are made, excess wood is removed with a drill, the bottom of the groove and the walls are leveled with chisels.

In most cases, only wood glue is enough to fix the parts; screws or nails will help to ensure maximum strength.

Half tree connection

Often used in carpentry various options half-wood joints (simple or straight lock). This build type wooden structures characterized by ease of manufacture and high reliability. The following varieties are distinguished:

• cross connection;
• half a tree - dovetail;
• gusset;
• on the mustache;
• half-tree splicing.

The first two methods are used to connect parts that intersect at right angles. Especially popular is the dovetail, in which the cutout shape is a trapezoid and the sides do not go at a right angle. The groove of the lock slightly expands from the end, providing a more secure fit. It should be noted that a spiked joint can also be called a dovetail if the spikes are cut in the form of trapezoids.

The second and third ways form a finished corner. Splicing is used if necessary to increase the length of the workpiece.

How to make a cross connection

One of the simplest is the cross connection. It is easy to manufacture, even a novice carpenter can master its wisdom. The work is done in the following order:

• marking is done. The parts to be joined overlap each other. Draw a line with a ruler. Thickness markings are applied with a thickness gauge;
• the first part is clamped in a vise. hand saw, carefully, along the lines, a cut is made to the mark left by the thickness gauge. The workpiece is rotated. A second cut is made;
• the workpiece is removed from the vise. With the help of a sharp chisel and a wooden mallet, part of the wood is removed between the cuts;
• processing the second part;
• planes are aligned with sandpaper or abrasive bar.

Now you can join the wooden blanks. The connection must be tight, without backlash and gaps. If the product is one-piece, the joints are coated with carpentry glue, the design is additionally reinforced with screws.

Formation of corners on the mustache

One of better ways creating corners of various volumetric products is a joint on a mustache. It allows you to create monolithic structure, hide the fibers of the butt, thereby providing an attractive look. This method is suitable for a wide variety of products, but is most often used for the manufacture of frames and cabinet furniture parts.

To create a connection in each of the wooden parts, cuts are made at an angle equal to half the angle at which the workpieces meet. Most often, this angle is straight, therefore, the cuts are made at 45 degrees, however, the angle can vary widely. Work is performed according to the following algorithm.

First mark out the details. It is important not to forget that the markup is carried out along the long side, otherwise you can not guess with the dimensions.

On the edges to be connected, draw a line at the required angle. With a combined square, the markup is transferred to each side of the workpiece. Then a cut is made, for which it is better to use an electric miter saw, but you can also work with a hand tool. When working with a hacksaw, it is important to control the angle of the cut; it would be useful to use a bar as a guide.

Finished parts are applied to each other, checking the accuracy of fit. Irregularities will have to be smoothed out with a hand planer, bring the angle with sandpaper. Carpentry glue is applied to both surfaces, and the product is fixed with the help of clamps. Additional strength can be achieved with the help of carnations. When working with a hammer, it is important to control the force of impact so that the workpieces do not move.

Particularly important connections are reinforced with bars, which are glued into inner corner. The joint, which will not be visible, can be further strengthened with a metal square.

As a result of high-quality work, a perfect seam will turn out. If a small gap has formed, then it can be hidden by straightening the adjacent wood fibers using a smooth cylindrical surface. For this, the rod of a conventional screwdriver is suitable.

Spike in the eye

Corner and tee (example: T-connection window frame) intersections are conveniently performed using the thorn-comb in the eyelet method. IN this case the eye is made in the end vertical detail, cuts under the spike - in its horizontal component.

Work begins with the marking of the eye. The workpiece thickness is divided by three. With a thin hacksaw, cuts are made to a depth equal to the width of the other workpiece. With the help of chisels, excess wood is removed, the walls of the eye are leveled with sandpaper.

Mark the second blank. The width of the stud should be equal to the width of the first workpiece, the thickness should be equal to the thickness of the stud. Cuts are performed hand saw, carefully control the depth and angle of inclination. Excess is removed with a chisel.

The final finishing in thickness is performed with sandpaper. Parts should be connected with light force and not fall apart under their own weight.

Thorn in the jack

A more complex connection is the spike-to-socket method. It requires more skill, but is much more reliable and durable. The scope of use is the same as in the previous case, namely, T-shaped joints. The difference of this method lies in the fact that the spike is made at the end of the vertical part, a nest is sawn out in the body of the horizontal.

This is one of the most common furniture joints. There is a connection with a through spike and with a deaf one. The difference is that in the first case, a through nest is cut out, in the second, a slot is made to a certain depth.

Features of the Japanese carpentry connection

Unprecedented heights of carpentry art were reached by Japanese masters. Using traditional techniques, combining Various types connections, they create accurate and reliable joints without the use of nails and other fasteners. Docking of various wooden parts is carried out solely due to the force of friction.

The reliability of these connections is based on an accurate cut. Perfectly matched lock lines on both mating parts allow you to create a connection with impeccable accuracy. Complex lock configurations require a lot of experience, knowledge and ability to use the tool, but if you wish, all this can be learned.

Rallying boards

Quality wood is expensive, buy good board With necessary parameters not always possible, and not always necessary. To make, for example, a tabletop, it is not at all necessary to look for a table-wide board, having carpentry skills, you can create an ideal wooden canvas with the necessary parameters.

There are many payment options. A board with a spike and a groove, the so-called lining, is widespread. It allows you to create smooth wooden surfaces large area. A simplified version of it is often used - a board with a quarter joint.

Rallying for a smooth fugue (butt)

The easiest way that does not require additional elements. The side faces of the boards are jointed, it is better to do this in pairs, clamping both adjacent boards in a vise and simultaneously processing them. Such processing will create an accurate surface on which the irregularities of one board will be compensated for by the irregularities of the other. Both boards are smeared with glue and fixed until it is completely solidified.

Rallying load-bearing elements

Lengthen (build up) the board, which is part of load-bearing structure possible in several ways. The simplest and most reliable is a half-tree connection, followed by an overlay on the junction of reinforcing strips. Non-critical areas can be reinforced with plywood.

The same method is used for articulating boards at different angles. Precisely made cuts of the articulated parts make it possible to do without reinforcing pads, it is enough to fix the boards at the junction with screws.

Cutting without residue means that the stacked logs will form an even angle, their ends will not protrude beyond the building, its separate variety is warm corner. Cutting with the remainder, in turn, means that an interweaving of protruding ends will form at the corners of the building. The second method is more expensive in terms of the amount of material, but the building retains heat better and is more stable.

Exist various ways connecting parts made of wood, the ability to determine the optimal one for a particular type of work will significantly diversify the range of products that a master can make. The correctly chosen method will provide an attractive appearance to the product and guarantee the reliability of the three-dimensional structure.