The procedure for installing ceiling panels - detailed instructions. Ceiling made of PVC (plastic) panels: step-by-step instructions Technology for installing PVC panels on the ceiling

10 minutes to read.

The PVC profile is practical, easy to install and costs less than the vast majority of alternative finishing materials. Its range color palette and textures only increase over time and by this moment Products are available that can harmoniously fit into almost any modern interior.

Selecting ceiling panels

To finish the ceiling, in most cases, light, monochromatic plastic is used, for example, white or a similar color. In terms of texture, matte or glossy options, as well as panels with inserts imitating a metallic sheen.

It is most advisable to sheathe the ceiling with glossy plastic. A shiny surface visually makes the room slightly taller, more spacious and, thanks to its reflective properties, lighter, which allows you to install less powerful lamps or use fewer of them.

In addition to the color and texture, PVC profiles are conventionally divided into ceiling and wall. The ceiling is characterized by a smaller thickness of the surface layers and the panel as a whole. It is not as durable, but also weighs less, which has a positive effect on the supporting structure. Wall plastic is quite suitable for covering the ceiling, but this is not practical, since it costs more, and its mechanical strength is of little use in this area.

Panels that look like clapboard are quite common. Their width, as a rule, is small (100 -120 mm), and the profile cut corresponds to wooden samples. Because of this, the surface sheathed with such material is also called slatted (due to its external similarity).

Bottom is a regular panel, top is PVC lining

A seamless profile is often used on the ceiling. These are mostly wide panels (200-250 mm), the installation joint between which is practically invisible, which results in a continuous smooth plane.

PVC panels are mounted either on pre-installed assembled frame(), or directly onto the rough ceiling.

Metal profile lathing

The first option is more preferable - it is simpler, and as a result the finish is of better quality. In addition, when installing without a frame, it is quite difficult to use mortise lamps and lay communications.

In general, installation of sheathing and plastic panels is quite simple - it does not require a highly qualified builder, serious professional skills or special equipment.

Tools

To assemble the frame and subsequent installation of the PVC profile, you will need the following tools:

Tape measure, square, simple pencil or marker, for marking on the ceiling, lath and plastic panels.
Tool for end cutting of wood. The ideal option is a power saw; a jigsaw or a sharp hacksaw will also work.
Drill, screwdriver, hammer drill. In most cases, one electric impact drill is sufficient, but it can be difficult to drill into a concrete ceiling. In such situations, it is better to use a hammer drill.
Metal scissors or an angle grinder (grinder, preferably small). This tool is necessary for cutting galvanized profiles; besides, a grinder is convenient for cutting plastic panels.
Level. To mark the ceiling around the perimeter, it is better to use a water (hose) level; if one is not available, a construction level will do. bubble level(preferably at least 1 meter long).
Rule. It will be needed during the installation of transverse elements of the frame to control their location in the same plane. It can also be used during installation of a perimeter profile in conjunction with a building level.

You will also need a hammer, pliers, a silicone gun, a knife, a spatula, and a stepladder (stool or table).

To construct the sheathing, a metal profile or wooden blocks are most often used. Let's look at each option in more detail below.

How to make a sheathing from bars

It is advisable to install wooden sheathing at a certain distance (3-5 cm) from the main ceiling.

Lathing made of bars on hangers

This will make the sheathing as smooth as possible, as well as avoid difficulties with laying communications and installation lighting fixtures. The manufacture of such a frame involves the use of brackets, which you can make yourself or purchase galvanized U-shaped hangers (used to construct a frame from a profile).

The most suitable cross-section of the batten for wooden sheathing on the ceiling is 20x40 mm; 15x40 mm is less commonly used. It is not advisable to use material thicker than 20 mm, since the mass of panels, even wall panels, is relatively small.

Any start of repair and construction work requires proper and careful planning. This is especially true when installing PVC panels yourself.

Most often, this material is used for finishing rooms with high humidity, for example in the kitchen, bathroom or hallway.

They are presented on the construction market in a wide range of colors, so they can be used to finish the ceiling in other rooms.

To perform the work, you will need to purchase or rent the following tools:

hammer drill or powerful impact drill;
jigsaw or hacksaw for metal;
screwdriver;
measuring instruments;
hammer;
laser or water level;
building level;
miter box and square;
metal scissors;
stapler

In addition to the tools, you will need to purchase all the necessary materials and only then proceed to installation work.

Panel fastening methods

There are several methods, but they will differ from each other in the type of base on which installation is performed.

Metal carcass.

In this case, the lathing is made of a metal profile. It has high strength and durability. The only drawback the specified option is that the height of the room is reduced by 5-7 cm, so it is not recommended to use it in a room with low ceilings. After installing the frame, the panels are fixed using self-tapping screws with wide heads.

Two-level metal frame

Frame made of wooden elements.

You can make a sheathing from wooden beams. The advantages of this option are that it is easier and faster to work with wood, and the cost of such elements will be lower. If we talk about the disadvantages of a wooden frame, then it is afraid of moisture and even after being treated with antiseptics, its service life will be shorter than that of metal profiles.

If you buy perfectly smooth bars, then their cost will not be lower than galvanized ones, but cheap material has unevenness, so while working, to get flat surface, you'll have to work hard. It is not recommended to use a wooden frame in wet rooms.

You can attach it to a wooden sheathing using self-tapping screws, but it is much easier and faster installation performed with a stapler and staples.

Wooden frame

Plastic sheathing.

Plastic lathing has a long service life, is light in weight and is easy to work with. The cost of such elements is no cheaper than galvanized ones, but nothing can be installed on them except PVC panels. Over time, plasterboard, MDF boards or other materials can be mounted on a metal sheathing.

The panels are attached to the sheathing with special clamps, which makes them easy to install, and when necessary, you can quickly dismantle the entire structure and install it in another place.

Plastic finishing on wooden sheathing

Fixing PVC panels directly to the ceiling surface.

In modern apartments the ceiling is made reinforced concrete slabs, if the joints are well sealed, then the surface is perfectly flat. In such situations, they do without a supporting frame and install the panels directly on the ceiling, this is done using “Liquid Nails”.

To simplify the work, you first need to apply glue to the panel and leave it for 5-7 minutes. During this time, the glue will set a little, after which the element is pressed tightly against the ceiling and it is securely fixed. To ensure maximum structural strength, it is recommended to apply two layers of primer to the ceiling surface and only then install the panels.

It does not matter what material is used to create the frame, the supporting profiles, in any case, must be positioned perpendicular to the panels being mounted.

Installation stages

PVC installation panels on the ceiling is divided into several stages:

purchase of necessary materials;
preparing a set of tools;
surface marking;
installation of sheathing;
laying electrical wiring to connect lighting;
installation of panels;
installation of lamps.

Preparing for work

At this stage, the ceiling surface is inspected and its condition is determined. If it is perfectly flat, then there is no need to purchase materials for the sheathing, since the panels can be fixed directly to the ceiling using glue.

If the ceiling is uneven or you plan to lay communications under the ceiling space, you will have to make lathing.

In this case, markings are made on the walls to install the starting profile (step back 5-6 cm from the ceiling), to install load-bearing frame materials (the distance between them is 60 cm).

Installation of a wooden frame Before starting work, all wooden crafts

treated with high quality antiseptic. According to the markings, wooden slats are attached to the wall, which will serve as a stop for the planks. The distance from the ceiling to the slats is about 5-6 cm, it all depends on the cross-section used for the frame of the wooden beam.

According to the markings, wooden beams are installed on the ceiling; they are fastened to the surface using dowels. If there are unevennesses, the supporting structure can be mounted on suspensions, and the ceiling level will decrease by a few more centimeters.

Installation of a metal frame

Instead of a wooden frame, you can use a structure made of galvanized profiles; it has higher reliability and a longer service life.

According to the markings made on the walls, a U-shaped wall profile is fixed around the perimeter of the room. If the ceiling is flat, then according to pre-made markings, the supporting profiles can be fixed directly to it. If there are unevenness in the ceiling, the profiles are mounted on metal hangers.

Metal lathing

After installing the wall profile, take the bar of the load-bearing element, insert it into the grooves of the wall profiles located on opposite walls and fix it on the hangers using self-tapping screws. Using a level, set the bar in a direction parallel to the floor.

The starting strip and the ceiling plinth are made in such a way that their supporting part is slightly wider; this is necessary so that the screws or brackets that secure the strip are screwed into the indicated extension.

Lighting installation

After creating the frame, it is necessary to lay the electrical wiring. It is usually performed in special corrugated pipes, which are attached to suspensions, and a wire is already laid in them. The ends of the cable are brought out in those places where the installation of lamps is planned, and after connecting to the network, the functionality of all lighting elements is checked. If this is not done, then, if damage is detected, you will have to disassemble the PVC panels.

Fastening panels

When the frame is installed and the electrical wiring is laid, you can proceed to fixing the panels.

If there is wooden or metal frame, they are fixed in the same way, it’s just that in the first case, it’s easier to do it with staples, and in the second, with the help of self-tapping screws.

If the sheathing is plastic, then the panels are fixed with clamps.

To trim the panels, you need to use a blade with fine teeth, usually a hacksaw.

First, the first panel is installed close to the wall, leveled, and then fixed to each supporting profile. The next panel is inserted into its groove, pressed well so that a minimum gap remains and fixed again, thus installing all the finishing elements.

The last panel may not fit completely, then you will have to carefully cut it to width. This element is usually fixed not at the joint, but through the top. Then the head of the screw or bracket will hide behind the ceiling plinth.

All that remains is to install the lamps, the ceiling plinth and the ceiling is ready.

The technology for performing these works is not complicated or labor-intensive. PVC panels are available in a wide range of colors, which allows you to match them to any interior, and the affordable cost and high characteristics of the material make PVC ceiling panels the most popular and simplest option.

Video on the topic

A ceiling made of plastic panels is one of the options for quick top finishing in any room. It will look equally good in a bathroom, toilet, balcony, loggia, or living rooms. Even if the next repair is planned in the distant future, then familiarize yourself with how to do high quality ceiling from plastic panels yourself will not be superfluous.

Harmful or not

There are conflicting opinions about whether a PVC panel ceiling is harmful when used in places where people are predominantly present. Moving away from the subjectivity of assessments, we can state:

Today, plastic is used everywhere in everyday life - from packaging goods to kitchen utensils. In the production of panels, raw materials used for medical and food products are used, which undergo mandatory certification.
The structure of the product has no pores. Bacteria and microorganisms do not have conditions for cultivation. That is why the Sanitary and Epidemiological Service recommends panels for use in the buildings of the Ministry of Health and other institutions with large public visits.
Plastic is easily kept clean using simple household products. At the same time, user properties and aesthetic qualities are not lost.
The combustion temperature of PVC used for the production of panels is 360°C. At the same time, chipboard, fiberboard, and OSB, which are often used for repair, begin the combustion process at 250°C. The smoke emission of the latter is 40-50% higher.
The plastic ceiling “does not breathe”, that is, it does not allow air to pass through, does not deform, and condensate is not removed. It is a fact. But all apartments and modern private houses are equipped with ventilation. The same applies to old houses, where the owner is allocated space for bathrooms and sanitary facilities, if they were not provided for when building the building. The issue of air exchange and humidity control is not resolved through the ceiling of the room.

Thus, the assertion that the use of plastic panels destroys the microclimate of the room and is potentially dangerous for people to live in has no basis.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

PVC ceiling panels are classified according to several criteria:

Density of the material.
Element size.
Connection type.
Color and texture design.

The type of joint determines whether the finished surface will have a visible seam or be completely seamless. Way final processing gives the product color and texture, and the surface can be:

plain, does not fade when exposed to ultraviolet light;
varnished, with a special coating applied that gives a special shine, but scratches can ruin the appearance;
printed with a variety of designs, but the plastic is soft. And the service life is limited;
laminated, completely repeating natural materials and their derivatives are susceptible to delamination when exposed to prolonged direct ultraviolet radiation.

All options are resistant to water or steam and do not change structure under moderate temperature changes.

When producing PVC panels for ceilings, manufacturers are guided by standardized dimensions, where width can be 100, 200, 250 mm, length - 2700, 3000, 4000 and 6000 mm, with a thickness of 10 mm.

The presented photos show design options for the kitchen, bathroom, toilet, bedroom, hallway and corridor.

Advice! The service life, in addition to the recommended conditions of use, depends on the density of the elements. Almost all panels are within easy reach price category, but less dense (soft) panels are cheaper. Saving on purchases may lead to new expenses in the near future.

Preparatory activities

Like other finishing works during renovation, ceiling panels without preliminary preparation it won't be possible to fix it. A number of activities need to be carried out:

Calculate the number of panels, accessories, and fastening materials. The plan takes into account the placement of lamps and wiring routing.
Check the readiness of the tool and accessories.
Clear the room of furniture that interferes with pre-treatment of the ceiling and direct installation.
Remove from ceiling surface remnants of old decoration.
Check wiring. If it is in a deplorable condition, as well as if a change in the position of the lighting devices is planned, dismantle it, having previously disconnected the input wires from electrical network.
Inspect the ceiling for defects. Pay special attention to the joints of floor slabs and wall joints on the street side. Putty on the cracks.
Prime the ceiling plane with antibacterial mixtures.

Attention! If the installation is planned to be carried out on suspensions (suspended ceiling), then the scope of these measures is sufficient. But in the case of attaching the guides directly to the ceiling, the plane is additionally leveled with gypsum-based putty.

Principles of calculation

A simple mathematical calculation makes it possible to purchase required amount panels and others Supplies. First of all, determine the installation area by multiplying the length and width of the room. Then the result is divided by the area of one PVC part, and the required number of parts is obtained. You should add 10-15% to the result obtained, rounding the value to the whole panel. This reserve will come in handy in case of erroneous dissolution or installation errors.

The following is calculated:

purchase volume of ceiling profiles, as well as suspensions (fastening interval 500-600 mm);
the length of the starting profile, where it is equal to the length of the perimeter and 100 mm of margin;
dowels, if the metal profile is fastened in increments of 500 mm;
self-tapping screws, with a consumption of pcs./meter, respectively, 1/0.5.

Additionally, you should purchase a profile for connecting the end parts of the panels, internal and external corners for joining the structure.

Tools and accessories

To perform the work, you should prepare the following tools and accessories:

Drilling holes. It can be electric or hand drill, semi-professional or professional screwdriver with a set of drills and bits.
Dissolution of blanks. Carpenter's knife, hacksaw with blade for cutting metal.
Measurements and markings. Tape measure, building level, twine, marker or pencil. Hangers.
Metal profile for installation ceiling structures: UD – 25/25 mm and CD – 25/60 mm in the calculated quantity.

Advice! Repair is a planned event. Therefore, it is recommended to prepare tools and purchase consumables in advance.

How to install a plastic suspended ceiling

There are several options for mounting panels. Simple is represented by direct lathing of the ceiling surface with timber at intervals of 500-600 mm, sequential interlocking assembly of panels. This option is applicable if, as a result of preliminary preparation, the surface is leveled close to ideal, as well as with low ceilings. But it should be taken into account that wooden beam“takes” moisture and becomes deformed. Consequently, the plane of the finishing surface will undergo a change.

Another method is a do-it-yourself suspended ceiling made of plastic panels using metal profiles. In this case, the structure will not lose consumer properties at any humidity and temperature changes. This is what will be discussed further.

Assembling the frame

Work begins with markings. For this purpose, previously prepared measuring and marker accessories are used. The order is as follows:

Record the height of all corners and the value in the center of the room (floor - ceiling).
The lowest angle compared to the base values will be the starting angle. It is from this that the interval of the formed inter-ceiling space (ceiling - panel) is measured. To make it easier to attach the cord, fix the point by screwing in a self-tapping screw.
Using a level and a cord, “beat off” a plane along the entire perimeter of the room, where the outlined line will be the junction of the plastic structure.
Places for placing metal profiles are added on the opposing walls. Planned intervals are no more than 500 mm.
Lastly, mark the installation locations of the hangers. It is important to apply the markings with maximum accuracy, since errors during installation are difficult to eliminate.

You should check whether there is hidden electrical wiring. To do this, use a special detector or seek help from a professional electrician. Further activities include:

According to the wall markings, the guide profile is fastened along the entire perimeter, with the exception of the side where the installation is planned to be completed, to facilitate the adjustment of the end slab;
holes for dowels are drilled in previously designated places and hangers are attached;
next, cut the profile to the required length, insert it into the guides, and fix it on the hangers with self-tapping screws;
carry out constant control of the horizon of the plane using a stretched cord.

Attention! This stage of work is completed by tracing the wiring and, if planned, communications. It is recommended to place the wires in special corrugated sleeves. Their use makes it possible to timely identify wiring during drilling and simplifies complete replacement parts of the wire and additionally protects against moisture penetration.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

The ceiling panels are installed perpendicular to the guides in the following order:

Measure the distance between the guide profiles. Transfer the measurements with markings to the panel. Cut off the excess. To do this, use a sharp knife or hacksaw with a fine tooth and a thin blade.
On the cut edges, the jagged edges are removed with fine-grained sandpaper. Release the panel from its individual packaging if it has not been removed previously.
One end is inserted into starting profile, having bent the palatine, the second end is placed in the opposite wall mount.
Move with little effort plastic element to the installed perpendicular mount. Thus, it turns out to be fixed in three planes.
On the side with the locking device, the lower part is fixed to the sheathing with a self-tapping screw.
Repeat the operation with the next panel, with the difference that it is necessary to ensure precise fit into the grooves along the entire length of the part.
On the panels where lighting fixtures are supposed to be installed, technical holes of the recommended diameter are drilled. To avoid unintentional fracture of the plane, work is carried out with extreme care, avoiding excessive physical effort.
Elements are installed in a similar way along the entire length of the room, while the installation of the outer panel has some peculiarities.

The installation of plastic lining on the ceiling is presented in the following video:

Installing the last panel and baseboard

The last panel for the ceiling fits completely into the remaining space in very rare cases, trimming is usually required. The procedure is as follows:

take accurate measurements on both sides of the panel; a slight error may have occurred during installation;
the measurements are transferred to the workpiece, the points are connected with a piece of profile and cut off;
together with the finishing wall profile, they are placed on the seat of the pants;
the latter is secured with an adhesive mixture called “liquid nails”.

Ceiling plinth is a mandatory attribute of a plastic ceiling. Molding gives a finished look to the room and ensures a smooth transition between wall and ceiling planes. To properly fit the baguette at the corners, you will need a miter box. If it is not there, then using one of the simple marking techniques will be sufficient. You can use a squared notebook sheet. It depicts two lines intersecting in the center. Then the bisectors of the corners are drawn and the required 450 for even trimming is obtained.

Advice! Before securing glue solution carry out preliminary fitting. If necessary, the butt ends are adjusted additionally.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Finishing installation work for installing plastic panels for the ceiling by gluing skirting boards and sealing acrylic cracks. After installing the last panel, as a rule, there is a need to seal the joint. At the same time, to make the ceiling plane look monolithic, the joints are filled acrylic compounds. The order of work is presented as follows:

You can carry out culling by preliminary inspection of the entire plane, but it is more practical to visually divide the plane into squares, and sequentially seal all the cracks as you move through the sections.
It is recommended to remove flaws using a construction gun with a tube filled with acrylic.
Simultaneous filling of cracks is carried out in small areas (350-450 mm). Excess is removed immediately and the seam is smoothed.
The hardening speed of acrylic is quite high, therefore, if the area where the composition was placed is missed and it has time to dry, it is carefully removed with a spatula or knife, followed by rubbing the area with warm water.

Attention! The drying of this type of grouting material is accompanied by slight shrinkage, and it may be necessary to re-grout the flaws after the first layer has completely dried, that is, 7-11 hours.

Plastic ceiling lamps

Change finishing ceiling makes it possible to check the condition of electrical wiring, change the location of lighting fixtures, install modern models. If the ceiling in the bathroom is made of plastic panels, then you can zone the lighting without damaging the wall tiles and place the wires hidden above the panels.

When independently tracing and connecting peripheral electrical devices, you must adhere to safety rules, namely:

Dismantling and subsequent work are carried out after disconnecting the room from the general electrical network. A household “indicator probe” in the form of a screwdriver will help you make sure there is no voltage.
It is recommended to pre-prepare the electrical wiring diagram location of lighting devices, switches.
Wires for new wiring are purchased with a cross-section corresponding to the maximum load when all devices are turned on. Consultation on this issue can be obtained from trade organizations.
In the places where lamps and switches are connected, the wire is left with a reserve - the “loop” will be useful if you have to carry out repair work or change equipment if it malfunctions.
After tracing the wires, it is useful, without connecting to the network, to check the correct execution of the circuit using a household voltmeter.

Attention! If the home handyman has no experience self-installation Wiring and connecting devices, in order to avoid accidents from electric shock during subsequent operation, you should invite a professional electrician.

Features of the selection and installation of 220 V lamps

When choosing lighting fixtures, consider the following:

The ignition temperature of plastic is high and it is almost impossible to achieve it by contact with a light bulb. But exceeding the heating norm will lead to melting of the seat, a change in color, structure and the appearance of an odor. In this regard, light bulbs with a power not exceeding 40 W are used.
Security parameters of the lighting device itself. Their importance increases when used in rooms with increased level humidity. Therefore, it is recommended to use lamps with a protection level of at least IP44.
Based on safety requirements, lighting devices should not be located closer than half a meter to the location of the bathtub or shower stall.
Distribution panel of lighting devices in rooms with high humidity located outside the room.
Places for installing lamps are prepared during the direct installation of the panels. The diameter of the seat for the lighting system, depending on the brand and manufacturer, ranges from 58-74 mm. There are two ways to make a hole.

The first is represented by the use of a suitable-sized wood crown.

The second one takes a little longer, but does not require the use of a special tool. The installation site is marked using an ordinary compass. Make a small incision sharp knife, and the outline is cut out with a household jigsaw. With all the increase in time for the procedure, the likelihood of damage to the panel as a result of careless use of an electric drilling tool is reduced significantly.

Halogen and LED

What distinguishes halogen and LED lighting devices from standard ones is a twelve-volt supply voltage, and to create it, a step-down transformer is included in the electrical supply network. The location of its installation should exclude the possibility of penetration of condensate, and especially water. Safety requirements require the installation of a separate automatic fuse with a rating of at least 8 A.

When determining the number of spotlight sources in any rooms where it is planned to install a plastic ceiling with a height of more than 2.6 meters, take into account the following:

the cone of lighting when they are turned on does not exceed an angle of 300;
for good light density, lamps are installed at intervals of no more than one meter;
the distance from the wall plane to the first lama is 0.6 m or more;
to connect groups of lamps, special blocks are used; even soldered “twists” are not recommended;
to ensure accurate polarity at the device’s power terminals, the wire should be routed uniformly, for example, black – plus, white – minus, wire with a notch – “ground”;
When attaching lamps to the frame, special devices (latches, clamps) must be used.

The installation procedure for a spotlight is as follows:

Disconnect the base part from the light element.
The block is connected to the wire terminals.
The light element is placed in its normal place and the operation is checked.
If the result is positive, the spotlight is attached to the base with clamps.
The installation of the decorative trim and thermal insulator completes the installation. It should be noted that the designs of lamps differ, and therefore it is recommended to study the instructions for the device before installation.

How to install lighting elements is presented in the following videos:

Conclusion

The presented material indicates that the plastic ceiling, when household use no more dangerous to humans than chipboard panels, but it has a number of advantages. One of them is represented by the possibility of self-installation, without the need to purchase special tools and accessories. A wide palette of panel colors allows you to create a ceiling for many interior styles.

Gallery of finished works

A good owner who has decided to make repairs in his home, first of all, will make a detailed list of his actions, calculate all financial costs, and draw a plan repair work. Only for specialists in the field finishing works It is known that one minor defect can ruin the entire picture of a new renovation and require numerous corrections.

In rooms with a high degree of humidity, very often the ceiling and walls are subject to the negative effects of frequent temperature changes, because of this the constantly generated steam creates ideal conditions for the formation of fungus and mold.

Repairs in premises of this type must begin from the top, from the “king” of the room – the ceiling. The most the best option There will be a PVC ceiling.

To do the installation pvc panels for the ceiling we need:

PVC panels,
moldings,
installation level,
square for accurate markings,
sharpened pencil,
roulette,
electric drill,
cord for checking the accuracy of lines,
screwdriver,
several dowels,
hammer drill,
clamps,
hacksaw,
metal scissors,
ladder,

Buy building materials at a slightly higher cost than necessary. Also buy several tools that often break, so as not to waste time on additional trips to the store.

PVC panels vary in size (from 25 centimeters to 3 meters). If the room being renovated small size, then it is better to take narrow panels (up to 50 centimeters), in large rooms Wider panels will be needed.

It is worth noting that PVC panels are the most popular material for interior decoration. Both a finishing professional and an ordinary amateur can work with it. But, installing these panels alone is quite difficult; it is better to work with two or three people.

Choosing PVC panels

When choosing PVC panels, there are several subtleties with which you can calculate the instances Bad quality. Let's list them:

First of all, you need to pay attention to the surface of the panel, evaluate the correctness of the geometry of the lines. The surface itself must be perfectly smooth and even, the pattern must be natural and uniform;
carefully examine the stiffeners; they are located inside the plastic panel. They should not be visible from the front side, much less look out from the outside;
The density of the plastic panel is an important indicator. It is easy to determine - just press hard on the PVC. A low-quality copy will become deformed or crack;
The durability of the panel also depends on the flexibility of the shape. Bend the connecting corner 2-3 times - it should not bend or crack;
When choosing a panel, consider several types. Each manufacturer has its own manufacturing technique. Take several models of the same width and count the number of internal ribs for each of them. Only experienced professionals know about this important detail. The most reliable and durable panel is the one with the highest large quantity ribs;
choose a panel with the thickest walls and stiffeners. Only they hold the shape of the plastic and the ceiling well, respectively;
finally choosing the desired model PVC panels, try putting them together and check if there are any gaps at the joints. High-quality specimens are very light, perfectly smooth, and eliminate traces of assembly;
the presence of chips on the plastic panel means that the composition contains more chalk than it should be. PVC can crack or break at any time.

Fastening lathing for PVC panels

Installation of a ceiling made of plastic panels is carried out in 2 stages:

fastening the main frame (sheathing),
then fastening the panels.

The sheathing can be purchased at construction stores or make it yourself from metal or wooden slats. The slats are fixed approximately 50 centimeters from each other, this is enough to mask the unevenness of the ceiling.

To correctly fix the frame, maximum attention and precision is required. To do this, we look for the smallest height, draw two straight, horizontal lines from the lowest point, using a cord and chalk. Using a level, we double-check the horizontality of the lines and adjust if necessary. The accuracy of the drawn markings depends on correct installation the entire frame. When installing the sheathing, ensure that strictly right angles are formed.

After completing the fixation of the frame, check that it should be perpendicular to the PVC panels. To do this you need:

to ensure the plane is perfect, mark the profile fastening lines around the entire perimeter;
we install the profile as close as possible to the wall, double-check for the presence of voids and depressions;
fix the transverse profiles;
we attach the base for fastening the panels to them;
We attach to the transverse profiles plastic profile and secure the entire structure with self-tapping screws.

Before you start installing plastic panels, remember or draw up a written diagram of the location of the wiring and communications wires, chandeliers and lamps, so that in the event of a short circuit or breakdown you do not have to break the entire ceiling in search of the cause.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling

Measure the length of the ceiling, carefully cut the panel according to this length. Experienced experts recommend cutting 1 centimeter less than the length of the profiles. Fasten the plastic panels tightly to each other, carefully monitoring the absence of gaps. We place the PVC panel inside the profile and fix it with self-tapping screws.

It is better to start installing panels from the extreme side. The first docked panel plays an important role in further work, the entire surface of the future ceiling will be oriented towards it. In case of an error or uneven installation, the following PVC panels will not fit into each other's grooves. The best guide to correct work is perpendicular walls.

Further repair work will go a little faster. If the sheathing is fixed well and the first control panels are laid correctly, subsequent PVC panels will be installed easily and smoothly. We attach them one by one to mounting profile. Remember, the panels should be fixed as tightly as possible to each other. The edges of the plastic are carefully inserted into the slats. The last panel, as a rule, does not fit completely; it will need to be cut. To do this, use a tape measure to measure the distance from the last installed panel to the wall. Draw a straight line with a pencil and cut it using an electronic grinder. The piece of the last panel should also fit into the cladding as evenly as possible; there should be no gaps or voids between it and the wall.

If it is necessary to minimize the financial costs of repairing the ceiling, then instead of a metal frame, you can install a wooden frame and replace the iron screws with staples. These materials are much cheaper and much easier to install. But there are also significant disadvantages: in rooms with high percentage moisture, wood is very short-lived. Under the influence of water and steam fumes wood cladding begins to deteriorate and become wet, deforming the structure of the plastic panels.

Before starting repair work and installing plastic panels, determine exactly where the lighting fixtures will be installed. If they are small Spotlights, then there is no need to further strengthen the frame. And if this is a heavy, massive chandelier or additional suspended ceilings will be installed, then you can install additional slats in the frame by reducing the distance between them. That is why it is recommended that before starting the installation of PVC panels, draw a diagram of the future location of all devices, i.e. you will no longer have to remove parts of the panels to install lamps or chandeliers. You can drill during the installation of panels small holes for installation of devices.

Once the installation of the new plastic ceiling is completed, you can remove electric wires outside or, conversely, hide numerous communications and wiring from prying eyes. For creative individuals with a well-developed imagination, there is an opportunity to experiment with color scheme PVC panels.

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly installed and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, checkered, with flowers and plant elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this variety, the ceiling made of plastic panels is usually made of a single color. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight tint, such as “baked milk”, ecru, Ivory and so on.

Depending on the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with shiny inserts. But since ceilings made of plastic panels are almost always made in technical rooms - kitchen, bathroom, toilet, balcony - small sizes, as a rule, force you to choose glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection the room seems more spacious. Also, reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - when matte ceiling it is necessary to take more lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that plastic has no place in the house. Perhaps, but we have plastic almost everywhere. They even package goods in it; many of our products in the kitchen and bathroom are also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What’s nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and the conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag soaked in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are truly hygienic. Proof can be considered the fact that the sanitation station allows them to be used in medical institutions.

There are plastic panels mirrored or with mirrored parts - stripes

The second point that stops many: the flammability of plastics. They really do burn. They begin to maintain the flame at a temperature of +360°C. For comparison: fiberboard also begins to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials by the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling made of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house and have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to install a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with toilet. To prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a couple of ventilation grilles in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still not airtight and with sufficient air exchange no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They are distinguished by their rigidity and weight: on the ceiling it is not important mechanical strength, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can crush them even with two fingers. Is it possible to mount Wall panels on the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is not in demand. In addition, they are heavier, so the load on the frame (if there is one) will be slightly increased and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the sizes of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles clapboard: the same stripes, only made of plastic. A ceiling made from such panels is also called slatted because appearance the surface is very similar.

An almost flat, crack-free surface with hardly visible joints is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost invisible: the front surface is flat and smooth, and on the sides there is a tongue and groove, like on a regular lining, with the help of which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with and is rarely used: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are finished, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from slats.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include ease of care: almost any dirt is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - depending on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When purchasing PVC slats, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with which you decorate the ends and joints. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a suspended ceiling or attach the plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

On the one hand, a suspended ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without having to drill walls. On the other hand, it “eats” some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is the case if the lamps are installed with ordinary ones, and not built-in ones. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main ceiling by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then there should be enough illumination.

Assembling the frame

When installing a suspended ceiling, a frame is assembled from guides. Most often, profiles are used for working with drywall. If you are making a ceiling in a bathroom or kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden blocks of 30*30 mm or larger cross-section.

First nail the planks or profiles around the perimeter, placing them all level. Then, intermediate guides are attached to standard hangers (there are two types) or wooden blocks in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as the previously installed ones (it’s easier to do if you stretch the threads between the already installed ones and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indentation, just to lay the corrugated hose - 3 mm, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled using pads - pieces of plywood, wood wedges, etc. In this case, the frame looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin installing the plastic panels. It starts with setting up a starting profile. In the case of a ceiling, ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to a profile or strip fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are filed at an angle of exactly 45°. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to the appearance of gaps. On the background white ceiling and white profiles (or colored, it doesn’t matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly along the length of the wall or with a slight spacer of 1 mm.

The cut strip can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. It is better to glue ceiling molding (with liquid nails). This way the joint turns out perfect: when gluing you press the bar tightly, when screwing it onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it is twisted forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, apply a zigzag thin strip glue. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can use 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along its entire length and torn off. There should be glue left on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then put it in place. To be sure that the plank is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even block and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has completely set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved from their place. After 8-12 hours the glue will harden and installation can continue.

If during gluing “liquid nails” are squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it out. Wait until it is completely dry, then pry it off with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin installing the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already installed skirting boards to the other, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut the panels to this length. There is no need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not appear in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces at a time, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel fits into the previously installed molding on three sides. It is placed with the spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, the top part (mounting flange) will sag, making installation difficult. To reduce the deflection, this edge can be secured with self-tapping screws. This will make it easier to insert the plank, otherwise you will have to correct it with a spatula, putting the panel in place. It should fit into the plinth or starting profile exactly along its entire length. The inserted strip is secured to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For attachment to wooden frame you can use a stapler with staples (if you are installing it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The installation of subsequent stripes is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it goes into the baseboard by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled by lifting the middle with your hand and eliminating the deflection, tapping the edge with your palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make sure it fits tightly. From below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip is normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports installed panel so that it does not fall out while you are securing it with screws (staples). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by gluing small pieces of double-sided tape to the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. This is how you assemble all the panels.

During the installation process, do not forget to cut holes for installing lamps. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring attachment, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you know the tool well and can do it round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with a regular drill with a thin drill bit... how? Watch the video. There are a couple more good tips there.

Having installed the strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done right away, problems may arise later: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. What if you put the last strip on glue? We'll have to break it. That’s why we install and check its functionality right away.

Installing the last panel

The most difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be trimmed. Measure the actual distance on one side of the ceiling and on the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or complicated about this. But then there are two options:

Simply insert the trimmed strip into a pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. If the panel width is sufficient, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip. Otherwise you won't insert it. And so you have to carefully adjust it with something thin (a steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After several attempts, it still works out... But besides the installation difficulties, there is one more drawback: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the previously measured distance on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form onto “liquid nails”. Only the glue is applied not to the strip, but to all the guides. Both the one along the wall and the one perpendicular to the installation (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in reserve - just in case.

The installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost complete. It remains to install the last plastic skirting board. First, the mounting strip on it is cut off: you leave only the baseboard. Afterwards, you also cut it at the corners at 45°, try it on, and cut it exactly. After trying it on again “dry” and making sure that the size is correct, apply glue to the plinth, only on both shelves: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will stick to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is finished. But sometimes another operation is necessary: covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not necessary if you bought quality panels, which have ideal geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly there is no need for correction: there are no saggings that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, as well as the junction plastic skirting board with a ceiling. Often there are so many cracks that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Filling in the cracks in small areas 30-40 cm each, removing all excess and leveling the seam. Acrylic is well leveled until it sets, and this is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared the piece and corrected it. If everything is fine, continue to apply. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient to use your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having covered the piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty is cut off evenly with a sharp corner of a spatula, then rubbed with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you won’t be able to wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the cracks that appear, rub it in, remove the excess and wash off the smudges. This second time is usually the finishing time. After this layer dries, streaks remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp, clean sponge and then rub gently soft cloth to shine. Now the ceiling made of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the lamps, the repair can be considered complete.

How to attach to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already level and does not need level correction, plastic panels can be attached directly to it. The procedure is the same: first the starting profile, then strips cut to size are inserted into it, securing at least every 50 cm.

You choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. You can hit wood with nails or staples from a stapler. It’s more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws won’t work, and you’ll have a hard time drilling a hole for a dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum distance from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue it on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its disadvantage is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-removable and will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Ceiling lamps made of plastic panels

We are not talking about design or quantity - here everyone decides for themselves, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate circuit breaker with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of 220 V lamps

If you install 220 V lamps, and install even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the housing. As the lamp heats up, its body also gets very hot. The heated body causes the plastic to darken and warp over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working with 220 V lighting. In the bathroom, it is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp body is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: most of them are quite bulky, since the body is usually ceramic. Simply hanging it on plastic will not work: you will need mortgages. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in the places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since lamps of this type require only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the panel after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. The lamps also work normally at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage the voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to place the transformer outside the bathroom to improve safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is quite large. Then it will have to be moved to the bathroom and hidden behind a suspended ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes each lamp has its own transformer. This is normal, it just costs more, but long distance between the lamps is justified.