We level the ceiling with our own hands. Leveling the ceiling with drywall - the standard of a quality surface Leveling the ceiling with drywall without a frame

The problem of uneven shelves is faced by the owners of both old and new apartments. And everyone decides different ways. Some do not see the point in doing this at all, believing that an uneven ceiling does not cause inconvenience, since you cannot walk on it with your feet. But, all the same, most owners want to see the ceiling in their home beautiful. The easiest way to do it yourself is to level the ceiling with drywall, which will hide all the irregularities that are conspicuous.

Work procedure

Plasterboard ceiling sheathing is done in stages:

  1. Prepare the base.
  2. Make markup.
  3. Mount the frame.
  4. Drywall is cut according to measurements.
  5. Install GKL on the ceiling and fix them.


Some do not bother preparing the base before plasterboarding, considering it a waste of time. They think that if they hide all the bumps under the skin, they will not have any problems in the future. But having decided to sheathe the ceiling with your own hands, it is better to do everything as the masters advise.

Of course, you should not deal with leveling, but you definitely need to put the surface in order.

To do this, you need to perform the following work:

  • If possible, remove the old finish;
  • Remove mold and fungus and treat the surface with antiseptic compounds;
  • Repair all cracks;
  • Make wiring to the installation sites of fixtures.

Before starting work on preparing the base, you will need to remove pieces of furniture from the room and things, at worst, cover them with cellophane.


cleaning old finish the work is dirty, so it is better to do it with gloves, goggles and a respirator. Of course, you should not tear off tightly glued wallpapers, it is enough to make notches on the colorful coating, but it is better to get rid of cracked plaster. Areas with the presence of mold and fungus will need to be cleaned with a stiff brush, and then treated with antibacterial compounds.

On the reinforced concrete base it is worth repairing the joints of the plates, and even small cracks, this will improve the sound insulation. In addition, it is desirable to coat the surface with a primer deep penetration with antiseptic additives. wooden ceiling must be carefully examined for the presence of rotten boards that will need to be replaced.


This stage has great importance for covering the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands. The final result depends on the accuracy of the markup, since profiles are mounted on it, to which the GKL will be attached. The markup sequence is as follows:

  • we determine the estimated level of the plasterboard ceiling, for this we find the lowest point ceiling surface;
  • we make the necessary indent, guided by considerations of practical expediency: how the lamps will be installed, which pipes will be hidden behind the structure. You should also make a margin of a couple of centimeters, otherwise the finish will turn out to be unattractive;

Important! For a chandelier, it is enough to retreat 5 cm from the base, but if it is planned to install built-in lamps, then the indent should be at least 10 cm.

  • along the luminous line of the laser level we make markings on the walls;
  • on the overlap we apply with a pencil, the so-called grid, which will be convenient to navigate when installing PP profiles and suspensions. When drawing a grid, we observe a 60 cm step between the lines for the convenience of attaching gypsum boards.


The correctness of the markup will simplify the installation of the frame structure. Installation Operations structural elements produced in the following order:

  • we measure the walls to determine the required length for the segments of the guides;
  • cut profiles with metal scissors;
  • we attach the guides to the walls along the perimeter of the room, be sure to align them according to the markings, the lower edge of the profile must be aligned with the line;
  • at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines of the grid, we fasten suspensions with dowels;
  • we make wiring to the places where the installation of lighting fixtures is supposed;
  • in accordance with the measurements taken, we cut the ceiling profiles;
  • we insert the longitudinal profiles into the grooves of the guides, and attach them to the hangers with “fleas”.


For greater rigidity of the suspended structure, transverse profiles are mounted at the joints of the GKL. Upon completion of the assembly of the frame, it is worth making sure that the supporting profiles are installed correctly in the plane. To do this, it is better to use a two-meter rule, which should be placed perpendicular to the profiles, the gap between them can be up to 1.5 mm. If it turned out to be very large, you will need to re-twist the “fleas” on the hangers.


Since GCRs are produced in large sizes, they will almost certainly need to be cut. This process consists of the following operations:

  • First, the sheet is marked with a tape measure and a pencil;
  • Connect the set marks, applying a rule to them;

By the way! Do not make markings with a marker or pen, traces that will be difficult to hide when finishing

  • . Next, set the rule along the drawn lines and draw along them with a clerical knife with a little pressure. Ease of use of the rule when cutting drywall sheets lies in the fact that its guide bar does not allow the blade to go off the line;
  • you need to put the GKL on wooden block or on the edge of the table so that the notch is in the air; now lightly hit the hanging part, press and break along the notch.
  • after that, it remains only to turn the sheet over to the other side, cut through the cardboard and separate the fragments;
  • it is desirable to clean the cuts with sandpaper or a planer.

Attention! For those who doubt their “breaking” abilities, the craftsmen are advised to cut the cardboard on both sides, driving the knife blade as deep as possible and only then, gently tapping, break the sheet. It also cuts very small pieces.

It is necessary to proceed with the installation of the cladding after arranging all communications and wiring to the fixtures, which are supposed to be located behind suspended structure. Now it's time to start screwing the drywall.


Since the sheets are not small in size, an assistant will be needed for their installation. The prepared sheet is placed on the frame, so that one of its edges is in contact with the wall, and the other lies in the middle of the carrier profile. If the length of one sheet is not enough, it is joined to another GKL. In these places, a chamfer of 2-3 cm is removed to make it more convenient to putty the joints. You can remove it with a special planer or knife.

They are fixed with metal screws 25 mm long, caps, which are screwed flush with the surface of the sheets with a screwdriver. It is important not to allow the cardboard to break, as this relaxes the fastener. Self-tapping screws are twisted after 20-25 cm. When all the sheets are fixed on the frame, the screw caps and drywall joints will need to be puttied. In addition, it is worth making sure that it is mounted correctly hinged structure. It is enough to apply the rule in different directions, ideally there should be no gaps between it and the ceiling.


Some apartment owners have to look for alternative way alignment of walls and ceilings for the reason that drywall requires a frame, and its arrangement is costly and time-consuming. But the installation of GKL is possible without a frame - the easiest way to level the ceiling. It can be considered a worthy replacement for stretch ceilings, and such a finish is much cheaper.

Conditions for using the frameless method

Aligning the ceiling surface with drywall in a frameless way is only suitable for small rooms in which the ceiling height does not exceed 2.5 m. Frameless cladding can only be used with a slight difference in the level of the ceiling surface at different points. But even if these conditions are present, if it is planned to place lamps on the ceiling, then one cannot do without arranging the frame.

Before sheathing the GKL ceiling using the frameless method, it is necessary to prepare it in exactly the same way as described in the method of attaching them to the frame. In addition, additionally prime the surface. It is faster and easier to do this with a roller.

By the way! If you lengthen the handle of the roller by putting it on a stick, then you can apply the primer directly from the floor.

There are two ways to fix drywall sheets without a frame on the ceiling in order to level it:

  1. Fixing sheets with self-tapping screws and mounting foam.
  2. For glue.

When choosing the first method of fixing the GKL, it must be borne in mind that they can be fixed in different ways. There are two options for fixing the material on the ceiling surface:

  • insert mounting foam through the holes;
  • apply the foam mass on the back of the sheet.

When choosing the first option in the GKL, you will need to drill 8-9 through holes. After fixing the material with the help of self-tapping screws with washers, a foam mass is introduced into them. Under the gypsum craton, it enters in a small amount, and after swelling, its excess protrudes through the holes. Dried pieces of foam that has come out are cut off with a knife. Washers are removed from the screws and re-screwed flush with the surface of the sheet.


The second fixation option is to apply polyurethane foam directly onto the sheet from the back. Usually it is distributed over the surface in zigzag patterns. Leave for 5 minutes, when the foam mass begins to increase in volume, the sheet is lifted to the ceiling and pressed. At the same time, it is important to observe the uniformity of pressure, avoiding strong drops. For a successful result, the GKL will need to be screwed with long self-tapping screws until the foam mass sets.

Fixing GKL on the adhesive composition

Important! In this way, only moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets are allowed to be fixed to the ceiling of a rather modest size.

Glue used for frameless mounting plasterboard on the ceiling must meet the following requirements:

  • The adhesive must have a minimum setting time;
  • When curing, the composition should not shrink much;
  • The prepared solution should be plastic and homogeneous for ease of application to the sheet with a spatula;
  • Since gypsum-based adhesive has a short shelf life, it is important that the mixture is not expired at the time of preparation.

All these requirements are more consistent with the German dry mix Knauf-Perfix. Gypsum in its composition is enriched with plasticizers that provide the desired adhesion adhesive solution with drywall.


It is more convenient to apply glue "blobs" in strips, 10 cm wide with an interval of 20 cm. Do not glue the edges of the sheets with glue, because when fixed, it will come out. Next, the GKL with glue is lifted and pressed against the ceiling. Under it put props, a board under the plane and racks. After the glue has hardened, it is desirable to additionally fix the skin with self-tapping screws in the projection of the glue strips.

Upon completion of the installation of drywall, you will need to seal the joints with putty and further finish it.

Video instructions for installing a plasterboard ceiling

Uneven ceilings in an apartment are not a problem of individual residents, but a general and understandable one, moreover, not everyone means the same thing by the concept of an uneven ceiling. We will proceed from the fact that a flat ceiling is smooth surface, leveled at a horizontal level, and we will analyze how to level the ceiling with drywall, while observing the entire production technology.

All stages of work

Making markup


  • The thread should be pulled between two marks and, pulling like a bowstring, sharply let go.
    The thread will leave a straight line that will serve as a guide when installing the false ceiling frame and will indicate the lower limit of this frame.
  • Since the frame implies a set, we still need to beat off a number of lines on the main ceiling.
    To do this, we select the corner of the room that is closest to 90⁰ and, having decided on the direction of the plasterboard sheets (GKL), during installation, we mark two opposite walls under the ceiling after 50 cm along this direction.
    Now it remains only to upholster the lines between the marks along the ceiling with the help of a choline.

Advice. When you transfer marks under the ceiling with a water level, the cones will interfere with you, as they will rest against the main ceiling and you will have to draw water into the level almost to failure, which is very inconvenient.
Therefore, you can simply remove these cones.

Advice. For the installation of profiles, special self-tapping screws for drywall are used.
You can check their quality as follows: a self-tapping screw put on nozzle No. 2 should not fly off it in a horizontal position and even with a slight tilt of the screw down.

Installation of a metal frame

  • Now you need to screw the UD profile to the wall. Bottom part profile must exactly match the broken line on the wall. Attaches UD to plastic dowels with screws.
  • The optimal diameter for a dowel for such a fastening is 6 mm, and for a screw 4-5 mm. Keep in mind that when buying a dowel-screw kit, this combination does not occur, since the screws are thinner there.
    It is difficult to say what the manufacturers are guided by, but if the screw is thinner than 4 mm in a 6 mm dowel, then it behaves almost like a pencil in a glass, that is, it does not hold.
  • If there are no mounting holes in the UD profile, then they need to be made 40-50 cm apart. These holes can be made by attaching the profile to the wall and drilling a hole in the profile and in the wall at the same time. If the UD profiles are installed evenly, then leveling the ceiling with drywall is already halfway successful.

  • Now, along the lines on the ceiling, you need to install U-shaped suspensions or pawns, as they are often called..
    The distance between them is 50-60 cm, and to fix them to the ceiling, dowels and screws are needed, which are subject to the same requirements as mentioned above.
    But, in addition to this, the ceiling dowel should be with a small cap or flare on the sleeve so as not to fall into voids.

  • Cut the CD profile 5 mm less than the distance between the walls and insert it into the UD profiles under the hangers, as shown in the photo.

  • In order to align the CD profiles, you need to pull a nylon thread under the frame, but the sag of the profiles will interfere with leveling, so each CD needs to be pulled up with a middle pawn, bending it under the profile.

  • Now align each profile individually by screwing it to the hanger with drywall profile screws.
    Bend the protruding ends of the suspension to the sides, and also fasten the joints of the UD and CD with screws. Next, we will analyze how to level the ceiling with drywall by installing plasterboard.

Sewing drywall sheets

  • You definitely need a partner, in any case, for installing the GKL, since it is very difficult for one person to lift a sheet and fasten it, and for a beginner it is almost impossible.
    For mounting, use self-tapping screws for metal, 25 mm long, screwing them in 30 cm from each other.

  • The head of the self-tapping screw should be recessed into the plasterboard so as not to interfere with the putty, but at the same time, it should not break through the paper, so you can use a special nozzle with a lampshade that fixes the depth of the cap.

  • We are considering leveling the ceiling with drywall, and take into account that the edge of the gypsum plasterboard should lie on the CD profile, overlapping it to half - the second half will be occupied by the next sheet.
  • After installing all the sheets, proceed to sealing the seams and screws, but this no longer applies to installation, but to plasterboard puttying.

Conclusion

So, now you know how to make a flat ceiling with your own hands from drywall, and having this knowledge, you can move further. This means that you can also make multi-level and figured ceilings, adapting them for mounting a vinyl sheet. First of all - desire!

A perfectly flat ceiling, on which there is simply nothing to catch your eye on - isn't this the dream of many residential property owners? Many of us have high requirements for space, and appearance the ceiling here is far from the last value. One solution is a plasterboard ceiling. In this article, we will install a drywall ceiling step by step without the help of professional repairmen.

GKL are used for the ceiling for many reasons. It is they who allow you to create a perfectly flat surface, to hide from prying eyes all the cracks or irregularities on the base ceiling. Moreover, such material allows you to effectively hide communications, starting with the pipeline and ending with the wiring. We just have to figure out how to fix it to the ceiling.

Variety of ceiling designs

In fact, the use of drywall sheets opens up a world for us limitless possibilities. With this simple and affordable finishing material you can realize your wildest fantasies. Thanks to him, you can make single-level or two-level ceilings, effectively mount point lighting devices, which will not only become a practical component, but also add their own zest to the design of the room. Deciding to use it to level the walls and ceiling, it is better to leave the installation of drywall on the walls “on the second”.

Naturally, for different rooms fits different material: for residential premises - ordinary GKL, for "wet" - GKLV, i.e. moisture resistant. So, for most rooms in the apartment is suitable ordinary material, but if you want to make a ceiling in the kitchen, bathroom or toilet, then it is better to choose a moisture-resistant material for this purpose.


Self-assembly of sheets with an existing frame is a matter of several hours. The whole difficulty lies in creating the maximum solid foundation with high strength. Otherwise, our drywall will sag over time, forming cracks at the joints - not a pleasant sight. Therefore, we will think about how and with what to attach the drywall frame to the ceiling (more on this design here). Here a lot depends on what building materials the ceiling is made of. If this wooden floor, then as fasteners we use wood screws, if concrete - dowels.

Necessary tools and materials

To do this, we need a puncher, a screwdriver, dowels, self-tapping screws for wood and metal, a level, a tape measure, a pencil, metal scissors, suspensions, a set of profiles (starting, supporting, longitudinal) - we will assemble a frame from them, on which the fastening will already be carried out finishing material, plasterboard with parameters 2500x1200x9.5 mm (or in width, a multiple of 400 mm.), planer, cladding cutting knife, putty.

Plasterboard for ceiling

Depending on the purpose, a material is distinguished with a thickness of 6.5 to 12.5 mm. If the first type is mainly used in the manufacture of curved surfaces, then the second is most often used when leveling walls. As for the sheets for finishing the ceiling, it is better to choose a material with a thickness of 9.5 mm. As a rule, it is he who is called "ceiling". It is quite possible to do wall material, only it should be borne in mind that it is heavier, therefore, the requirements for the frame are more stringent: more fasteners and profiles.

Ceiling markings

The first thing you need to decide is the indentation of the future ceiling from the base one. You may need to hide some communications, then we increase the width of the opening accordingly. Usually 100-200 mm are left between the ceiling and the ceiling. Considering that not all ceilings can boast of horizontal alignment, we determine its lowest corner, and already from it, taking into account the difference in height, we begin to measure the distance from the base ceiling. As a result, our premises along the perimeter should be outlined, the horizon of each site should be ideal and verified. After that, you can proceed to fastening the guide profile according to these marks. It is advisable to maintain a step between fasteners of no more than 400 mm. If we need a box on the ceiling, then we need to foresee its presence in advance and attach an additional guide profile in the chosen place.

Next, you need to mark the ceiling for the installation of suspensions. To do this, parallel lines are drawn across the room with a pencil in increments of 400 mm. After that, marks are made on the first line in increments of 500 mm, on the second - the first mark 250 mm from the wall, and then at intervals of 500 mm. On the third line, marks are again made in increments of 500 mm, etc. Labels must be staggered. This is done in order to ensure maximum rigidity and strength of the frame, which will be attached to the ceiling in these places. When the markup is over, you can build a frame.

Frame installation

Important! In fact, the technology for attaching the frame at home allows a lot of deviations. So, instead of hangers, you can use the same guide profile, curved in the shape of the letter "G". The distance between the profile segments in the frame can also be different. The most important thing is that the frame for the ceiling is durable, and everything else is trifles.

At the marked points of the ceiling, it is necessary to fix the suspensions. This can be done using all the same screws or dowels - it depends on the surface. Further, the supporting profiles must be adjusted to the width of the room and the so-called starting frame previously fixed around the perimeter. To do this, we measure the width of the room, measure approximately the same length (but 10 mm shorter) of the supporting profiles and cut required amount elements. After that, you can make a ceiling: the supporting profiles are inserted into the suspensions and attached to them with metal screws. At this stage, it is very important to control the strict horizontality of the carrier profile. Otherwise, the ceiling will not please us perfectly. flat surface. Correction of the horizontal position of the profile is carried out by changing the positions of the fastening. For greater accuracy when checking horizontal position profile is best to use laser level.

Transverse profiles alone will not be enough to securely fasten the finish. To enhance the rigidity of the frame structure, it is necessary to further strengthen it with longitudinal elements. The same guide profile is used, cut into pieces 400 mm long. They are attached to the transverse profile at a distance of 500 mm from each other using special crab fasteners. Instead of the latter, you can use small pieces left when attaching the starting frame (the one that goes along the perimeter of the room). The location of the longitudinal profile must be such that the edges of the mounted sheets fall into the middle of the guide profile. Let's move on to the solution, perhaps the most simple question: how to sheathe the ceiling?

Fastening to the frame

When the frame is ready and its horizontalness has been checked more than once, you can proceed with the installation of sheets. For this procedure, you will need at least two people: one fastens, the second in the wings. Sheets must be installed close to the walls, butt to each other, across the longitudinal profiles. If necessary, they are cut into pieces in accordance with the parameters of the frame. This is done with a knife, and the cut is additionally processed with a planer. GKL must be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws for metal for every 200 mm of the profile. The heads of the self-tapping screws should not be strongly recessed into the material, because in this case the rigidity of the fastener is lost. There is very little left: puttying the surface finished with drywall, or rather the joints and fasteners of the trim and frame, as well as finishing.

Ceiling putty

To ensure maximum adhesion of the putty and the cardboard surface, it is best to use a self-adhesive serrated film. It is glued to the places where the screws are screwed in, as well as to the joints between the sheets. After that, proceed to putty. How to putty such a surface? Just like any other - carefully and leaving no chance for irregularities: we apply the composition with a wide spatula, wait until the putty dries and process it with a fine sandpaper. After that, the ceiling can be painted, wallpaper glued on it - here everyone chooses what his heart desires. If everything is done in good faith, then such a ceiling will serve you faithfully for more than one year.

Are the ceiling design issues resolved? It's time to take care of floor insulation. In one of the following articles, we will analyze this problem in detail.

ceiling fabrication cost
Name of works The cost of work for 1 m2, rub. The cost of materials for 1 m2, rub. Total, rub.
Plasterboard ceilings
with 1-layer sheathing, on a metal frame 420 300 720
with 2-layer sheathing, on a metal frame 500 370 870
Prices for elements of the second level of the ceiling
box rectangular section on the ceiling (size 500 mm * 500 mm) from 370 after measurements
Curved ceiling element (or the end of a straight ceiling) from 400 depends on size and design after measurements
Ceiling cornice (element with hidden lighting) from 500 depends on size and design after measurements
Possible works
Soundproofing with mineral wool, 50 mm thick 50 70 130
Painting works (preparation for painting, painting) 400 220 640

The ceiling surface in any room is always in the spotlight and depends on the accuracy of its finish. overall design rooms. The slightest bumps and joints immediately become noticeable, so the question of how to level the ceiling is relevant for many residents. For alignment, you can use or stretch ceiling. But putty is only suitable for minor differences and surface defects, and stretch ceiling rather complicated to install. Inexpensive and practical way- level the ceiling with plasterboard.

Benefits of leveling the ceiling with drywall:

  • allows you to get a perfectly flat surface;
  • suitable for a plane with any curvature, differences and joints of plates;
  • provides an opportunity to lay electrical wiring in the interceiling space, mount ventilation equipment and other communication structures;
  • easy to install - you can mount a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands without the use of expensive special tools;
  • allows you to build multi-level ceiling structures;

Choosing the best plasterboard for the ceiling

What is worth paying attention to Special attention when buying GKL:

  • Sheet marking. All brands of drywall sheets are suitable for the ceiling, but for wet rooms, moisture-resistant drywall marked with . Such material is not afraid of moisture, is resistant to temperature changes, is conveniently cut and easily mounted.
  • Material thickness. For ceiling sheathing, drywall with a thickness of 6.5 mm is considered optimal.
  • Product integrity. At external examination there should be no defects: dents, cracks and other mechanical damage. The dimensions of high-quality sheets exactly correspond to the dimensions set by the manufacturer.

Methods for attaching plasterboard to the ceiling

For the installation of drywall on the ceiling, a frame and frameless way fixing sheets. frame structure differs in durability and durability.

Mounting gypsum craton on a profile frame

Consider how to install on the ceiling after the preparatory operations. When mounting the ceiling frame, the profile guides are mounted along the perimeter of the plane. To securely fix the drywall profile, dowels and screws are used that are clogged. The most optimal distance between the holes for fastening the guides is 400-450 mm.

They are mounted to profiled elements with a step of 600 mm. Before leveling the ceiling with drywall, on last step longitudinal load-bearing profiles are installed, attached to the suspensions. The whole structure can be strengthened every 500 mm with transverse profiled elements. Jumpers are attached with the help of "crabs". Drywall sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recessed into the sheet by 1 mm.

Frameless mounting method

Leveling the ceiling with drywall without a frame - effective method for surfaces small area having minimal irregularities, in which the differences between the floor slabs do not exceed 3 mm.

Before sheathing the ceiling with drywall without a frame, the old peeled plaster, moldy areas and dust are removed. After application, drywall is fixed using special glue. For application adhesive composition is used . To glue the GKL, it must be firmly pressed to the ceiling base.

After installing the GKL before finishing:

  • sheets are smeared with a thin layer of primer;
  • joints for tightness are glued with a special one;
  • putty is applied;
  • after drying, the surface is polished with a finely dispersed sandpaper.

Not everyone can and, moreover, not everyone wants to pay a lot of money to the team for mounting the frame, which you can light with your own hands. When ordering plasterboard ceilings in the bedroom, hallway or hall, you will spend where more money for their installation than when buying materials in a store. Is there really no way out? Just learn for yourself! And we assure you - the plasterboard ceiling is not so terrible, as it is described on the Internet!

After spending only 20-25 minutes of your time, you can make false ceilings from drywall without outside help. Therefore, right now we will pull away the “piece of bread” from professional installers and screw this contraption with our own hands!

What is a drywall ceiling for?

Many people think that this design is only for beauty. In fact, everything is completely different and the appearance of the room is the last reason to do suspended ceiling. Let us consider in more detail why it is necessary to make a plasterboard ceiling.

  1. Savings on heating: you you will pay 10-25% less money for heating especially for tall buildings. From a ceiling of 320 centimeters ( a private house, stalinka) you can make 240-250 cm, therefore, do not heat too much and warm air will be closer.
  2. Ceiling alignment. Some emergency rooms require significant repairs. With the help of drywall, the problem with the ceiling is solved - you will smooth out any irregularities.
  3. The problem of laying communications and engineering networks. Sometimes it's easier to hide them under drywall than to cut the entire ceiling and walls with a wall chaser.
  4. Sound isolation. The best way"get rid" of the neighbors and retire in your house or apartment. With high-quality insulation, you can even live at the airport.

There are other minor advantages: plasterboard ceilings allow you to make multi-level structures and dry quickly, which significantly speeds up construction and calls into new house can be much faster.

Marking the ceiling for drywall - the first stage

Let's start with the purchase of materials and counting money. To know how much material will fly to the drywall ceiling in the bedroom, you need to mark it out and calculate it with a calculator. Let us consider in detail how the marking of the ceiling for drywall is done.

STEP 1: calculate the lowest point of the ceiling. You need to take a tape measure and measure all the angles. Take the smallest distance as a basis, step back 7 centimeters from above and mark with a marker.

STEP 2: Mark other corners. We take a laser level (you can also use a hydraulic level, but it’s more difficult to work) and “punch through” a straight line to the other three corners, make marks.

STEP 3: draw a line on the wall. We hammer in 1 nail at one mark, the other at the other, we stretch the paint cord between them (lubricate it with a little grease), then we take it aside and release it. He hits the wall, leaves an even trace - the line is ready. You can also simply draw a line with a ruler (level, profile) and a pencil.

STEP 4: fastening guides. We will start counting from them. We apply a metal profile 28x27 mm and drill holes through it in the wall every 10 centimeters. We take a sealing tape (sold in the kit), glue it on the profile, apply it to the wall and fix it with dowels on the holes made.

STEP 5: mark the wall under the main profiles. Drywall has a width of 120 centimeters and there are 3 profiles per sheet, that is, every 40 centimeters (at the edges of the sheets). We mark marks on any side of the wall every 40 cm, draw a line. We draw perpendicular jumpers every 250 centimeters (sheet length). The first suspension will be placed at a distance of 25 centimeters from the wall, further every 40-50 centimeters.

Important: do not forget to make marks on the wall where the profiles under the drywall will be. This will greatly simplify the search in the process of screwing drywall, because the sheets are large and you will have to make holes in it for a long time until you find a jumper in the middle of the sheet.

Now you can safely count all the lines on the wall and multiply them by the length or width of the room, respectively. It’s not worth sketching “in reserve”, since it’s impossible to spoil a metal profile and even a bent one can be safely aligned and screwed onto dowels. Additionally, at this stage, we need the following items for the plasterboard ceiling:

  1. Metal profiles 28x27 mm (guides) and 60x27 (basic) according to the calculations.
  2. "Crabs" for connecting profiles.
  3. Sealing tape.
  4. Anchor and dowel (for starters, you can take 50 pieces).
  5. Level.
  6. Drywall sheets (10 mm, moisture resistant)
  7. Putty (3-4 bags per medium-sized room).
  8. Screwdriver.
  9. Self-tapping screws for drywall (25 mm for sheets of 10 mm).
  10. Spatula and standard tools (ruler, tape measure, stationery knife, hammer).

After buying all this burda (most of the tools are probably already on the farm), you can get to work.

The second stage is the installation of a metal frame for the ceiling

The materials have been purchased and now the most boring, but important part of the work is ahead - fastening metal profiles and creating a solid frame for the ceiling. In principle, it is not much more difficult than, only in this case, the work is carried out with hands raised. Remember that it depends on the accuracy of the work whether your plasterboard ceiling will sag in 2-3 years or not.

STEP 1: we fix the hangers of the profiles to the ceiling. This must be done with anchors, since the dowel for vertical surface much worse.

STEP 2: growing profiles. Since 1 profile is not enough for the entire room, they must be fastened together. To do this, you need to purchase a special connecting fastener and fasten the profiles with it. The joints should be close to the suspension of the profile.

STEP 3: fixing profiles to hangers. It is necessary to evenly raise the profile by 2 edges (an auxiliary worker will not interfere here), screw one, rearrange the stepladder and stick the other edge. Further, according to the mark on the wall (where the profile is located), “grab” the profile over the entire area. We start fastening from the corners.

Important: never leave a profile without support on 1 or two self-tapping screws, as it weighs a lot and can break the attachment point with its weight or simply bend. At least 2 points in different corners of the profile, and preferably 3-4 points.

STEP 4: after screwing the corners, you need to check the profile with a level. Suitable tool length 250 centimeters. If somehow it was possible to screw it in crookedly, we unscrew it and adjust it with hangers in the right place.

STEP 5: in exactly the same way we attach all the profiles in the middle of the room, moving from the corners to the center, we fasten the jumpers (the junctions of 2 sheets of drywall every 250 centimeters). This can be done with a special metal crab. We cut the jumpers from the profile and fasten them together.

STEP 6: sound insulation and insulation. If installation metal frame is implied with the installation of insulation and insulator, then it's time to take care of it at this stage. We cut mineral wool into large pieces and fasten it over the jumpers.

Important: use goggles, a respirator and gloves when styling mineral wool, it can get into the eyes and cause severe skin irritation.

Mounting the frame for drywall is the most complex and lengthy process, all subsequent work is done several times faster and will seem much easier (however, they are easier).

Fixing drywall to profiles

When the steel is already hanging on your ceiling, another field for creativity opens up ... After installing the frame from the metal profile, you can move on to the drywall itself. After purchasing the material, it must be put in room temperature With relative humidity no more than 85%, let rest for several days. Remember that you can not put the sheets vertically and store in this way- they can deform under their own weight, especially if they were a little wet. Let's move on to the mounting process.

STEP 1: cut off the edges of each drywall with a clerical knife at an angle of 30-40%, so that later it would be easier to seal them with putty. This applies only to cut sheets, since pasted sheets already have such a chamfer initially.

STEP 2: we lift the sheet (an auxiliary worker will not interfere) and attach it in the corners, then we look for a profile along the line marked on the wall and fasten the drywall there. If you ignored such labels in the first section, you will have to look for a profile at random. At least 15 centimeters must be retreated from the edges so that the sheet does not prick, remember this!

STEP 3: we check all the screws so that the caps are flush with the surface of the material, otherwise it will not work normally to putty, and “obliquely crooked, if only alive” will not suit us.

Fixing GK sheets takes no more than an hour per small room, since the frame you already have is even and all that remains is to grab them to the profile with a screwdriver. The frequency of tightening screws is 20 centimeters.

Sealing, leveling and counting materials

After the sheets are attached, it is necessary to prepare the putty and apply it with a large spatula, make sure the corners are even, so that there is no excess finishing material at the junction of the walls and drywall. If you apply more, then you have to level the corners for a long time.

After the putty dries (6-8 hours), you can take a grout tape or paper and eliminate all the “stains”, level the surface and prepare it for finishing. The ceiling can be painted in the desired color, make a stretch ceiling, decorative plaster and everything you need.

Per room at 20 square meters you will have approximately the following amount of materials:

  • 19 ceiling profiles standard size;
  • 110 hangers (fixing the profile to the ceiling);
  • 8-9 sheets of GK 10 mm;
  • 10 guide profiles (I'm molded to the wall);
  • 24 crabs;
  • 0.5 kg of self-tapping screws for fixing drywall.
  • 30 dowels.

Having made simple calculations of the cost of hiring a working team, we can state that we saved 11,500 rubles by making a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. Whether it makes sense to spend a couple of days and save this amount is up to you.

  1. The joints of the connection of 2 metal profiles cannot be placed on the same line, they must be done at random, like laying bricks with a “bunch” in construction.
  2. The use of sealing tape significantly reduces the noise level in the apartment, since the sound is not transmitted through the metal.
  3. Purchase moisture resistant drywall from well-known manufacturer, its cost is slightly higher, but you will be sure that it will not “lead” and the edges will not break.
  4. Use a screwdriver to screw the sheets, working with a screwdriver is simply unrealistic. Immediately buy an extra battery so that you can work continuously.
  5. Finishing putty hides only small irregularities, so clean and apply the first layer as evenly as possible - it is actually the last.

If everything is done correctly and according to the instructions, the plasterboard ceiling will be nothing worse than that, which will be made by a working brigade and 100 times better than it will be made by unfortunate guest workers at "half price"! We also invite you to watch a video of how plasterboard ceiling former builders:

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