Wood is the most popular building material. Even though it is susceptible to infection, it quickly becomes covered with blue stains and dark gray spots. At high temperature and damp air, flying spores of the fungus quickly do their blue work. What to do: get rid of the affected material or try to save it?
Preparations according to the rules
Why does wood darken? Everything is simple. Wood is a biological material that has a certain moisture content. Microscopic fungus and mold spores move freely in the air and, settling in the nutrient humid environment begin to actively multiply. This process cannot be prevented. Before and during construction, it is not always possible to process wood. How to be? Main - it is necessary to choose the right material. The highest quality is considered to be winter wood harvested during the period when the air temperature does not exceed +10 °C. Under such conditions, moisture naturally freezes out of the pores of the wood. The winter harvest material acquires an optimal percentage of moisture (10-12%, ideally 8%) and becomes less susceptible to infection.
Wood, harvested in summer, due to the absence of natural freezing and due to the high activity of the construction season, sometimes immediately after felling it is cut and sold. It is simply raw, and its use almost always threatens with unpleasant surprises - maybe formation of blue spots(spread of fungus), and twisting of the material. This is especially true of the board - after all, the smaller the cross section of the product, the faster the fungus penetrates into the tree. That is why blue rarely appears on the beam.
If construction is slow or material is being prepared for future use, it is better purchase aseptic wood, which is completely soaked in a protective solution under factory conditions. A uniform layer of such impregnation is quite enough to prevent the spread of fungus on the wood surface during the entire period of construction or storage of the material. You can impregnate newly purchased boards and by yourself with a sprayer, brush or roller. Admittedly, this is hard work. You will need a non-tinting antiseptic impregnation that will not form a film on the surface of the material.
Wood-staining fungus is, of course, not the only pest that can quickly destroy wood. But unlike other lesions, blueness on a tree is a dangerous symptom, since it not only penetrates deep inside, but also precedes rot. The latter is able to eat the material almost completely and destroy the structure. There is only one way out - to learn how to properly treat and protect the tree.
Save... can't... throw away
If the blue has already settled on the structure or on building material, then you need to get rid of it. And the faster the better. Blue on the tree can be bleached by special means , but first of all, it is important to dry the surfaces or ventilate the room well to get rid of excess moisture. Most often, wood bleaches are made on the basis of chlorine ("Neomid 500", Expertzkologiya - from 1900 rubles for a 20l package; "Sagus", Sagus + LLC - from 540 rubles for 10l.
"Senezh EFFO", "Senezh-preparations" - from 680 rubles. for Yul). It is far from always possible to remove blue from the first time. In this case, re-processing is carried out. After bleaching, the wood is washed to avoid efflorescence, dried and the result is evaluated.
It is worth considering that wood bleaches are effective only when the spores of the fungus have not yet penetrated too deeply and have not affected the core. Sometimes the tree is still easier to throw away than trying to reanimate the affected areas, since the penetration depth of the brightening impregnations is only about 3 mm. If it is clearly visible that the wood is heavily affected by the fungus or the material has cavities inside, a very dark, almost black shade and a loose structure, then no bleaching will help.
Useful potion
After the whitening procedure, it's time to apply a protective composition. There are antiseptics, forming a film on the surface of the wood and not forming it. The latter will require further processing, since the biocide in their composition will evaporate and be washed out under the influence of precipitation. Non-film-forming antiseptics or wood primers are usually applied under further painting(enamel, moisture-resistant, fully covering or transparent glazing paint) or on wood, which will subsequently be closed finishing material such as siding. Primers penetrate deep into the wood, create a vapor-permeable coating and sometimes contain UV filters. They create an elastic coating on the surface, which improves adhesion when applying the subsequent decorative and finishing layer of paint. Among them there are those that can be applied practically on raw wood with humidity up to 40% and one that will constantly be in adverse conditions, for example, at high humidity (Belinka base from Belinka, from 3000 rubles per Yul, AQUATEKS from NPP Rogneda, from 1900 rubles per 10l, VDAK primer "On a tree" from Palitra Rusi, from 530 rubles per 10l).Film-forming compounds not only protect, but also create a decorative layer that gives the tree a beautiful translucent shade. Typically, manufacturers offer about 10-15 colors to choose from. These antiseptics form a waterproof vapor-permeable film and well protect wood from fading and lightening. For interior spaces at home, acrylate-based compounds are used - they have good thixotropy (do not drain) and are odorless. For outdoor use, solvent-based formulations (alkyd glazes) are best suited, creating a more durable coating. When using film-forming antiseptics, it is worth knowing that for acrylates, the color appears only after complete drying, and oils and waxes are often added to alkyds, which provide special strength and durability of the coating.
In most cases, wood can be saved. However, no manufacturer guarantees that the blue will not return again after a few years. To avoid repeated negative consequences, wood must be carefully protected and constantly monitored for its condition, carrying out regular processing. Then any wooden building will stand unchanged for more than a decade.
The main destructive factors that reduce the strength and visual value of a tree include decay, damage by microorganisms (fungi) and insects. All negative impacts are interconnected and proceed most intensively at high humidity. To increase the resistance of wood to destructive influence environment apply an integrated approach, which consists in reducing the moisture content of the tree and impregnating it with chemical reagents.
The use of antiseptic compounds prevents the appearance of blossoms and woodworms, and also accelerates the process of restoring the structure of the product after a comprehensive cleaning or repair. The means used are self-made or factory-made. Factory mixes are considered the most effective and usually contain substances of organic origin. They are more toxic to the body and require strict adherence to recommendations for use.
Do-it-yourself formulations are often no less effective, but they are much cheaper. The complexity of preparing antiseptics for wood processing is low. It is important to use hand and face protection (gloves and masks) as you have to deal with big amount substances. The composition of the solution depends on the goals that are set for the protection of wood, and how it is used.
Are bituminous and salt mixtures safe?
Part of the compositions for antiseptic impregnation is used for deep protection of a tree buried in the ground. A more gentle effect is exerted by mixtures for processing the external surfaces of a house or gazebo, as well as interior decoration premises.
Antiseptics for the most effective protection are non-aqueous mixtures based on used motor oil or bitumen. The advantages of such compositions:
- viscous coating of heavy petroleum products effectively protects the product from the penetration of moisture and oxygen;
- the anaerobic environment of a tree protected by bitumen stops the development of bacteria and fungi, destroying already existing colonies of microorganisms;
- wood-boring insects cannot appear in a tree treated with bitumen or oil. For their existence, only weakened (rotten) wood and the absence of resins and hydrocarbons harmful to any organism are necessary.
Treated with heavy oil products (often with the addition of substances of a coke-chemical nature), the tree does not deteriorate in the ground for years. Suffice it to recall telegraph poles standing for decades without a hint of decay.
Disadvantages of the preparation and use of resin (bitumen) and oil mixtures:
- component toxicity;
- easy flammability if improperly prepared;
- high soiling compositions, which are almost impossible to wash off when it gets on clothes;
- bad smell;
- inability to use due to bad smell and indoor toxicity.
Traditional mixtures for wood processing are aqueous solutions of salts - sodium fluoride and copper or iron sulfate. Their low concentrations are used to coat external and internal parts wooden structures and decorations. More saturated compositions help protect piles or boards buried in the ground.
Benefits of saline water solutions:
- less toxicity than non-aqueous impregnations. greatest danger represents only copper sulfate ( blue vitriol), capable of causing severe poisoning if swallowed;
- ease and safety of preparation. Heating the mixture for open fire no more dangerous than the usual kindling of a fire;
- ease of transportation. Bitumen or oil is more difficult to transport to the place of application, while salts are easily transported over any distance.
The disadvantages of water antiseptics include:
- lower degree of wood protection than non-aqueous viscous mixtures;
- ability to be washed off with water after application;
- the need to apply insulating coatings to consolidate the effect.
All protective preparations should be used on the territory of the homestead with caution, especially during the harvest period. Contact of substances with fruits can lead to poisoning, so the preparation and application of an antiseptic should be carefully considered.
Impregnation for wood: main components and preparation process
Bitumen solution for wood processing
The composition of the drug includes not only bitumen, but also a thinner - diesel fuel or gasoline. The bitumen containing diesel fuel will harden for a long time and will have time to impregnate the treated surface more strongly. The use of gasoline speeds up the curing time and is useful in times of work restrictions.
Bitumen thinners are sold at gas stations, and used oil can be purchased at service stations. Bitumen is purchased from construction stores or at construction sites. Officially sold bitumen is more viscous and well packaged, which improves its transportation.
When buying and using gasoline, use only metal containers. Static electricity from polymer containers can cause fire and burns .
In addition to the original components, for work you must have:
- capacity for heating bitumen;
- a device (stops) for fixing the container over a fire or burner;
- metal stirrer.
The process of preparing the bituminous composition is as follows:
- bitumen is poured into a metal container and placed over the alleged source of open fire;
- turn on the burner or kindle a fire, gradually increasing the heat;
- heat the bitumen to complete liquefaction, periodically stirring to dissolve the lumps;
- put out the fire after bringing the bitumen to a low-viscosity state and set the container with it aside;
- The solvent is added in small portions, controlling its splashing due to heating. Gasoline will actively evaporate, so you should wait until the mixture cools down a bit.
The proportions of bitumen and diluent depend on the initial state of the bitumen. The main criterion is that the final mixture is in the liquid state at room temperature. The content of diesel fuel or gasoline is usually about 20-30% of the total mass, but may vary depending on the nature of the viscous component.
If the bitumen is heated quickly, the mixture may foam and overflow over the edge of the container directly onto the fire. This is due to the presence of water in the bitumen. Slow heating stops this process and allows the water to boil away calmly.
The preparation time of the bituminous preparation takes several hours. Depending on the amount of work, you can do it in two hours or spend the whole day. The resulting mixture is a viscous mass that has high adhesion to any wood surface. It is not worth leaving bitumen for long-term storage, spending it immediately after cooling and diluting with a lighter oil product.
The mixture should be prepared exclusively on the street, so as not to inhale harmful fumes and not start an accidental fire. Apply bituminous antiseptic with brushes with long handles. You can also immerse part of the tree in a container with a solution. After drying, the bituminous layer is very difficult to damage, so the products become suitable for burying in the ground.
Water mixture preparation and wood treatment with copper sulphate
Solutions of salts in water are prepared by dissolving a given amount of salt in heated water. Heating is necessary to increase the speed and completeness of dissolution. There are various proportions for treating wood with sodium fluoride and iron or copper sulphate:
- a weak solution of sodium fluoride is used to impregnate wooden surfaces of household structures. Its content is from 0.5 to 4% (from 50 to 400 g per 10 liters of water), depending on the design purpose. Inside the house, it is enough to use less concentrated mixtures, while on the street (arbors, benches) it is better to use saturated solutions. For visual control of the completeness of the application, 10 g of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) is added to the resulting solution. Intense coloration will not be permanent and will disappear shortly after the surface has been coated. Apply the solution with a spray gun or a wide brush;
- for the treatment of pillars and structures buried in the ground, sulfate mixtures are used with a content of the target component of 10-20% (1-2 kg per 10 liters of water). Such formulations require particularly thorough drying and long impregnation times to improve the application effect. The quality of applying the antiseptic is controlled by the degree of color of the product, which is facilitated by the rich color of the vitriol solution. In the resulting preparation, parts of the wood are soaked, which will be further exposed to negative external influences.
To prepare the water mixture, you need a source hot water, a container for cooking and a spatula for mixing. The use of the solution after settling makes it possible to load it into the sprayer, improving the uniformity of the coating and reducing the consumption of reagents. You can apply impregnation immediately after cooling. Solutions can be stored for several days until suitable weather conditions are established.
The preparation of aqueous solutions can be carried out at home or on the street. At home, you need to be especially careful not to spill excess solution on things or in hard-to-reach cracks. Total time preparing an antiseptic rarely takes more than an hour.
To avoid mistakes when dosing components, study the characteristics of the wood you are going to process. There are complex approaches to processing, including cutting off a layer of wood and varnishing a salt-soaked surface.
Comparison of purchased and homemade antiseptics
The advantages of a do-it-yourself solution:
- lower cost;
- high efficiency in the case of bituminous or oil composition;
- less toxicity;
- the minimum probability of buying counterfeit products.
Advantages of purchased factory-made drugs:
- the greatest efficiency;
- ease of preparation (ready after mixing with water or non-aqueous solvent);
- selectivity of influence.
The choice of a tree processing tool is left to its user. The quality of the obtained wood protection when using self-made impregnation may be inferior to more expensive factory mixtures. For use inside the house, it is advisable to buy a complex tool that will have not only an antiseptic, but also a fire-fighting effect.
Do-it-yourself antiseptics are several times cheaper than ready-made commercial formulations and have good efficiency. The scope of such mixtures is not limited to outdoor work and includes a number of compositions for use inside the home. The degree of protection can be adjusted by the thickness of the applied impregnation layer and the concentration of its aqueous solution, ensuring the suppression of any wood-destroying effects.
The range of impregnations for wood is huge. Their choice must be approached carefully, so that later you do not have to regret the damaged wooden thing or the destroyed walls of the house. Before buying a coating, you should find out for what purpose the impregnation is intended.
So that the wood does not affect the fungus and bacteria, it must be impregnated with an antiseptic.
For work, do-it-yourself wood impregnation can be used, which has certain advantages and disadvantages.
Wood and its destructive factors
Today it is fashionable and prestigious to have wooden antiques in the house or build on suburban area wooden bath. Wooden things are subject to destruction by factors such as:
Mold on wood leaves indelible stains, and also destroys its structure.
- putrefactive bacteria;
- grinder beetles;
- mushrooms.
Putrefactive bacteria destroy wood in conditions of high humidity. Mushrooms leave indelible stains on the wood, destroying its structure. In a humid environment, mold spores also form in the wood.
Impregnation is necessary to rid the wood of the harm caused to it by various adverse factors. external environment. The process of wood preservation is implemented during the use of each stage of construction, as well as:
- during the preparation of lumber;
- in the manufacture of new wood structures;
- to protect wood from fire, moisture, destruction by harmful microorganisms.
Types of antiseptic impregnations for wood
Antiseptics help protect the wood from grinder beetles.
Modern protective compounds made with organic substances oil formulations and on water based. The most successful are environmentally friendly products. They are selected depending on the type of wood.
Priming impregnation is designed to save the base material when processing wood. It is applied on initial stage technological process before applying varnish or paint. Priming impregnation ensures even application of all layers. Many types of priming treatment compounds give the wood the ability to keep water out.
To give the tree a certain shade, color impregnation is used. Wood stain highlights wood structure and paints the wood in the right colors. Multifunctional impregnations are capable of performing several actions, for example:
- protect from high temperatures;
- prevent the destruction of wood by carpenter beetles.
Water-based impregnation is versatile in work, easy to apply, dries in a few hours. Compositions on organic solvents dry much longer, up to 2-3 days.
Nitrocellulose is a compound that provides fast drying stain in 10-15 minutes.
Wood processing must be carried out in special protective suits, masks and gloves.
A good water-based impregnation is characterized by the property of highlighting the internal texture of a wooden surface. The covering is steady against action of light beams, has dirt-repellent qualities. The process of its application does not present great difficulties: drops and streaks do not form on the working surface.
Water-based impregnation protects wood from moss and fungus spores. It can handle furniture, doors, windows. It contains pigments that have the ability to repel light rays. To apply the composition, it is necessary to purchase a special brush, when working with which the surface remains smooth and shiny.
Water-based impregnations do not contain organic solvents. When applied, there is no strong odor. To work, you must purchase the tools in advance:
- brush;
- special device for spraying paint;
- nitro thinner;
- brass brush;
- primer for wood;
- colorless paint azure.
The mechanism for applying a water-based impregnating composition
Antiseptic can be applied with a paint brush.
Before starting work with impregnation, it must be mixed. The coating is carried out using a brush or other device that sprays paint on a wooden surface. A tree that has an uneven texture is covered with a darker color impregnation.
When working with exotic woods, the surface must be treated with a nitro thinner.
Before starting the impregnation, the wood is brushed with a brass brush. Outside wooden details coated twice.
Coniferous and hardwood primed special composition. The final layer of the coating consists of colorless paint combined with azure. It is unacceptable to get impregnation on plastic parts.
Mastics, impregnation for wood parts
Any master can make impregnation for wood with his own hands, using recipes based on bitumen. These compounds are much cheaper and have exceptional properties. When applied, they impregnate wood to a depth of 7 mm.
Bituminous antiseptic is suitable for working with poorly dried wood: it freely penetrates into wood fibers.
The process of making an antiseptic is simple. It is necessary to prepare the following materials for work:
- electric stove;
- bucket;
- bitumen;
- diesel fuel;
- kerosene;
- mastic.
A bucket is placed on the electric stove, bitumen of the M-5 or M-3 brand is placed in it, heated to a boil and bubbles appear. Then the container is removed from the stove and diesel fuel is added to it. The bitumen should become liquid when cold.
To prepare a kerosene-bitumen mixture, kerosene is used, which is introduced into bitumen with great care. The bitumen is crushed and combined with kerosene until it is completely dissolved in it. The kerosene-bitumen composition is thick, and before starting work it is heated to a boil.
It is impossible to heat a gasoline-bitumen antiseptic: it can only be diluted with gasoline.
On the surface treated with the composition, it is easy to apply oil products, enamels, with the exception of nitro-lacquer and nitro-paint. The coating process consists of three stages: a primer and two paints.
Using biocides for wood at home
Linseed oil helps to give wood products an even more presentable appearance. appearance.
Preservatives used in direct contact with soil or water help to preserve wood. The main components of impregnations are compounds of copper, chromium with the addition of zinc, fluorine or boron. Biological impregnations are reliable in operation, and they are easy to make with your own hands at home. It is enough to purchase a special container and an antiseptic concentrate. To obtain the finished composition, the concentrate is poured into a prepared container and filled with water, mixing thoroughly.
Natural waxes and oils protect wooden surface from the action of water and atmospheric factors. The oil penetrates deep into the wood, creating a special layer impervious to gas, water, steam. Wax protects products from the outside by forming a special breathable layer.
Linseed oil - great material for guard wooden structures. It is added to many products that are used for external and internal works. Linseed oil helps impregnations to give wooden products a beautiful appearance. The oil is matched to the color of the wood by adding coloring compounds to it. Working with oils is safe for health.
Fire retardants for wood impregnation
Fire retardant impregnation for wood.
Having made a wooden structure, it is necessary to protect it not only from mold, fungi, moss, but also from the effects of fire. For these purposes flame retardants are used for wood flooring. Special substances give wood fire-repellent properties. They prevent the spread of fire, facilitate the extinguishing of a fire that has arisen and prolong the ignition time of wood.
To give wooden structures special properties against the action of a flame, 2 types of impregnation are used: compositions based on aqueous solutions of salts and wood processing LMK.
A fire retardant composition, including non-poisonous inorganic salts, is applied to rafters, attic lathing, details of premises and offices.
Before starting work, prepare the following tools and materials:
- alkaline cleaning solution;
- solvent;
- bucket;
- roller or brush.
Before applying the composition, the wood is dried, cleaned of dust and dirt. Permissible humidity of the treated wooden surface is 30%.
The composition for impregnation is stirred with a spatula before application, and then applied with a brush or roller to the work surface. The work is carried out at temperatures up to +5 ° C. The coating is carried out with protective gloves to avoid contact of the composition with the skin of the hands.
Flame retardant compositions create protection against fire of the 1st degree with full preservation of all the properties of wooden coatings. Do-it-yourself solution is suitable for work in summer cottages, residential and industrial buildings and does not adversely affect human health.
Having studied the market for anti-wood destruction agents, you can prevent the premature death of wooden structures by creating special solutions with your own hands.
The composition and methods of preparing an antiseptic for giving their own hands are of interest to many owners country houses. Wood is a material that is often attacked by insects, mold and is destroyed by putrefactive processes. All these changes proceed very quickly in a damp room and under the influence of negative factors environment.
Wood treatment with antiseptic
Do-it-yourself wood preservative, recipe
Wood is particularly susceptible to attack by insects in the spring when they wake up, and also in the fall when the bugs seek shelter before the onset of cold weather. Given this feature, it is important to treat with an antiseptic composition twice a year. the following items, namely:
- wooden fences;
- garden furniture and accessories;
- wooden elements exterior finish Houses.
Untreated wood will not last long and will deteriorate under the influence of sun, rain, wind. In addition, the material loses its visual appeal and becomes brittle. Shading solutions can not only protect the material well, but also give it a better look.
Untreated wood will not last long and will break down under the influence of sun, rain, wind
Factory-made solutions are considered the most effective, since their composition is well balanced. The disadvantage of ready-made antiseptics is their high price, as well as high toxicity, as potent chemicals are added to them.
Do-it-yourself antiseptic may not differ much in composition from the purchased one and have high protective properties. The main advantage of a self-made solution is that the cost of all ingredients is cheap and, if desired, strong chemistry can be abandoned. This is especially true for those who want to process wood inside the house.
During the preparation and use of an antiseptic, it is important to remember your own safety and work only in goggles, gloves, mask.
A wood treatment solution can be prepared according to the following recipe using the available components. These include:
- Bitumen.
- Gasoline or diesel fuel, diesel fuel.
- Waste engine oil.
It is worth deciding which solvent will be used. If you want the antiseptic to harden faster, it is better to give preference to gasoline, which evaporates quickly and the mixture dries faster, respectively. However, if you need to impregnate the wood well, then more deep penetration have mixtures in the preparation of which diesel fuel was used. According to experts, bituminous antiseptics dissolved in diesel fuel penetrate into the layers of wood by 5-7 mm. This is especially important when it comes to processing roof parts or other wooden products located in damp areas.
Warming wood antiseptic at the stake
During the preparation of the composition for wood treatment, it is important to be extremely careful and carefully handle the fire while heating the mixture.
Preparing an antiseptic is not difficult. First of all, bitumen is recommended to be heated to a liquid state in metal container at the stake. Periodically it must be stirred to dissolve the lumps. Upon reaching a homogeneous, liquid mass, the container is removed from the fire and allowed to cool slightly. Next add engine oil and the selected solvent. In this case, the mixture must be stirred. The composition is ready and you can start using it.
The recipe recommended above is suitable only for outdoor work or for use in non-residential premises. It is better not to use it in an apartment or house, since the evaporation of chemicals can cause irreparable damage to human health. For indoor use, it is worth choosing biological, natural antiseptics. They are slightly inferior to chemistry, but absolutely harmless and do not cause allergies.
The composition of natural impregnation is simple and according to the recipe, ingredients such as hemp or linseed oil. Such an antiseptic strengthens the tree, protects against moisture, dirt and insect pests. Wood impregnated with natural oil does not crack or dry out.
After treating the wooden surface with natural oils, it is worth giving it a better appearance and making it resistant to mechanical influences. To achieve this goal, the wood is treated with wax and turpentine, which are mixed in a ratio of 1:1.
Video about recipes and methods for making do-it-yourself wood preservatives:
If you are interested in do-it-yourself wood preservative, the composition of the product, then in this article you will certainly be able to find out the recipe for the mixture. Some of them are only suitable for indoor use, while others are suitable for outdoor use.
Processing wood with high-quality antiseptics can significantly increase its service life.
They are designed to effectively protect wooden structures from mold, rot and destruction, as well as to improve performance.
For this, specially designed formulations that meet the basic safety requirements are suitable.
Wood protection begins with the selection of a suitable preservative.
Types of antiseptics and composition
Modern antiseptics are classified by composition, purpose and scope.
Depending on the main components that were used for the production protective equipment, impregnation for wood can be divided into the following types:
- Water soluble;
- Oily;
- organic;
- Combined.
water soluble
Impregnation on a water-soluble basis is intended for the prevention of wood processing various types. Wood preservative is used to protect surfaces that are not exposed to water.
For the production of water-soluble antiseptics, the following ingredients are used:
- Sodium silicon fluoride;
- sodium fluoride;
- BBC 3 ( boric acid and borax).
Oily
The most popular and demanded type of antiseptic, which is used to protect wooden structures from high moisture. The basis of such products are oils - anthracene, shale or coal.
Wood preservative gives the wood a dark saturated shade.
It does not dissolve in water, but has an increased flammability factor and a strong oily smell, therefore it is used exclusively for external work.
organic
Organic type impregnation is not so in demand and is often used to protect outdoor wooden structures.
This type of wood preservative creates a thin protective film on the treated surface, improving the moisture-absorbing and cohesive characteristics of the wood.
The disadvantages include the possibility of painting surfaces in green color and increase their porosity.
In addition, such products have a negative effect on metal elements, contributing to the development of corrosive processes.
Combined
Such antiseptic formulations successfully combine performance characteristics other types.
Purpose
Depending on the purpose, special wood protection is divided into two categories:
According to the area of \u200b\u200buse, antiseptic for wood is divided into two categories:
- For interior work. Impregnation of this type is used to protect structures and elements intended for interior spaces. Therefore, it is absolutely harmless and does not have a strong smell. It is important to remember that for each type of room it is necessary to choose the appropriate antiseptic.
- For outdoor work. This category includes antiseptic impregnations and finishes intended for the treatment of outdoor wooden surfaces. They differ in wear resistance and resistance to aggressive influence. Compositions for external use have a specific pungent odor, are resistant to high moisture, low temperatures and ultraviolet radiation. It is better not to use them for interior work.
Choosing the best antiseptic
Effective wood protection depends on which preservative has been chosen. To choose the right antiseptic compositions for a tree, it is important to consider some factors:
- Manufacturer;
- Compound;
- Purpose and area of use;
- Type of wood;
- Consumption per sq.m.;
- Impact on the human body;
- Quality certificates;
- Price.
A reliable wood preservative should have a high toxicity to mold, fungus and harmful microorganisms.
No less important is the indicator of protective ability. So wood protection can be ineffective, medium efficiency, effective and high efficiency.
The finished preparation must fully correspond to the degree of damage to the wood. According to this characteristic, the antiseptic can be used on clean, unstained, slightly infested and heavily infested wood surfaces.
Impregnation for interior work must have an appropriate sanitary certificate of complete harmlessness for indoor use. Preparations for outdoor work should be characterized by high resistance to low temperatures and ultraviolet radiation.
What antiseptic preparation is considered to be of high quality? One that adheres well to the surface and is compatible with any paint material.
Before buying, you should carefully read the instructions for use and check the expiration date of the drug.
It is worth refusing to purchase antiseptics from unknown manufacturers with the lack of the necessary quality certificates, because high cost is not always an indicator of quality.
Do-it-yourself antiseptic
A protective antiseptic for wood can be prepared independently, which will be much cheaper than purchased analogues. Most often, homemade antiseptic formulations are prepared from iron sulfate and sodium fluoride.
Vitriolic
In bulk plastic container pour 100 g of iron sulfate and 10 g of potassium permanganate. Add 20 liters of water and mix thoroughly. Apply the finished composition to the surface to be treated with a brush or roller.
sodium
To prepare an antiseptic, you need 25 kg of sodium fluoride and 400 liters of water.
The finished mixture is best applied to a wooden surface by airless staining. After drying, the wood is carefully sanded with a petal wheel and processed with finishing protective impregnations- oil, varnish or wax.
The difference between homemade and factory-made antiseptic preparations is only in the components that are used for their production.
Ready factory impregnation is more effective due to the high content of organic components. It is toxic to the human and animal body, so it should be used in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
Do-it-yourself compositions are less practical and effective, while saving money. Home biosecurity is available in preparation, environmentally friendly and safe for humans. To determine which antiseptic will be the best, it is worth considering all the conditions for its use.
Proper treatment of wood with an antiseptic
The technique for processing wood surfaces is quite simple, but, nevertheless, it is important to remember the safety measures when working with chemicals of such a type.
To work, you will need special protective clothing, a mask, rubber gloves and impregnation for wood.
- The surface is thoroughly cleaned of old coatings, debris and dust. Next, the wood is treated with soft detergents and dries up.
- The antiseptic mixture is applied to the damaged areas with a brush or roller. The next layers are applied 2-3 hours after the first layer has completely dried. Complete drying of the treated surfaces can last from 3 days to 2 weeks.
- All work on wood processing is best done at a temperature of +5 (for organic, oil and combined formulations) and at +10 (for water-soluble). Humidity is at least 85%.
- To destroy insects, it is better to use alcohol compounds, which are poured into holes made by pests with a special syringe. Next, the surface is treated with the selected antiseptic.
Re-protection of wood with antiseptics is carried out in case of chips, cracks and discoloration of the surface.
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