U zealous owner a desktop is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or an extension to a house. Certainly, carpentry workbench can be purchased. But if this product famous brand, then it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the needs of the master. Cheap tables won’t last long – that’s for sure.
The most rational decision, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, make it yourself. Having dealt with optimal sizes, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult about this for any man.
Selecting a workbench project
This is where you need to start. Any desktop is made for specific purposes and premises. Carpenter's workbench is a general name. One is needed only for woodworking personal plot(for example, during construction or overhaul), the other is assembled for everyday work with small details, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and installation location, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.
Option A – portable (mobile) workbench. This type of desktop is most often assembled with your own hands for small rooms(extension, garage), with a complex layout, and its main purpose is to perform minor work with small parts. The relatively light weight of the structure makes it easy to move it to another segment if necessary. As a rule, the maximum that can be equipped with such a workbench is a medium-sized vice and electric sandpaper. This will allow carpenter's table partially used for small plumbing work.
For household purposes home handyman The table according to option A is best suited. It is called mobile purely conditionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for it in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing its legs to the floor (fill it with concrete, “fasten” it with large screws, and so on). With your own hands - whatever you want.
Drawing up a drawing of a carpentry workbench
If the workbench is assembled for household use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master himself is free to change anything, at his own discretion.
- Length – at least 180.
- Working surface width – 90±10.
- Workbench height – 80±10 (taking into account the thickness of the table top). When deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with wood will be effective and will bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoes”.
What to consider:
- The number and type of compartments in the table cabinet. These can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, or shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
- To make it more convenient to work with samples different lengths, it is worth drilling several “sockets” in the countertop to install limiters.
- To secure workpieces, it is advisable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. Optimal width their “sponges” are 170±5 mm.
- Desk location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of lamps mounted on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.
If the owner is left-handed, then this should be taken into account. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose “working” hand is their right. Consequently, you will have to place additional equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.
Example of a workbench drawing
Selection of materials
Planed timber. It will go to the frame (frame) of the workbench. The section is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the structure. For a large table - no less than 100 x 100. If it is compact, for universal use, you can limit yourself to blanks 100 x 70 (50). They are also perfect for various jumpers. Board. For the tabletop minimum thickness– 50. Here you need to think about how to use the workbench more efficiently. For example, to make it truly universal, one part of it can be specially adapted to perform metalworking work, that is, with metals. In this case, it is advisable to take a more massive board (for example, “sixty”) and beat a small segment of the tabletop
sheet iron . This is just one of the ideas that you can implement with your own hands when determining the design features of the workbench. A work desk is not installed in residential premises. And in the workshop there will definitely be changes in both temperature and humidity. That's why
Wood recommended for making a workbench is hornbeam, beech, oak
. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are quite hard. Although for the tabletop of a homemade workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, sometimes slab samples (chipboard, OSV) are taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.
- Wood that is too porous should not be used. Even high-quality treatment with antiseptics and oils will only increase the moisture-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the wood.
- Fasteners
- Bolts.
- There are no particular difficulties with them. They should be of such length that you can put a washer, locker and nut on the reverse side. It is more difficult with other types of fasteners.
- Nails. How advisable it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are found quite often), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of comments are worth making.
- Self-tapping screws.
For a small workbench - the best choice. The most “problem” areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, and plates. The main thing is to correctly select the length of the fastener leg. There is a rule according to which it must exceed the thickness of the part being fastened by at least 3 times. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is in question.
Instructions for assembling a carpentry workbench
In the process of making a desktop with your own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion, even in one place, and everything will have to start all over again.
- Making workbench parts
- This is easy to do using the dimensions shown in the drawing.
- Each sample is carefully polished.
- Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are treated to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects. Drying. This is worth emphasizing. This process cannot be initiated using artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should only evaporate naturally - in a room with room temperature
and good ventilation.
Assembling the supporting frame (workbench base)
Part of the fastening features have already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tongue-and-groove connection with wood glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables that are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options). Here you should take into account the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If it is in a room with good conditions , it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are quite justified. For work tables that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and especially under open air , “landing” on glue is undesirable. Partial renovation
It won't work, and you'll have to reassemble the frame.
Additional reliability of the structure can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. This is all thought out at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although “rework” can be done during the installation process.
Tabletop
- The width of the tabletop is selected so that its surface extends slightly beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, working on such a workbench will be inconvenient. And it will no longer be possible to secure the removable vice.
- The sides of the boards are carefully sanded. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
- The blanks are laid face down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular to the center lines of the boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be tightened with thick screws. As a last resort, it is easy to drill deep chamfers at individual points.
- To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed to the frame using metal corners.
- After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).
Workbench equipment
At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vice. They can be purchased ones that are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry, make clamping devices themselves.
In principle, a man who is “friendly” with the simplest tools should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.
Even if there are no sizes on them, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability we can say that new ones will appear, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or shed. Yes, and having familiarized yourself with the table configuration, design features various models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling it yourself is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.
To work with wood or for finishing manipulations, every craftsman needs a convenient workplace. In order to carry out all the work as efficiently as possible, you can quickly build a high-quality and inexpensive workbench with your own hands to suit your needs.
Construction and purpose of a carpentry workbench
A workbench is a stable, massive work table designed for processing various products using hand or power tools. The larger the size of such a table, the heavier and larger the parts can be processed on it.
Typical workbench layout:
Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, you need to study all possible table designs, their drawings, and only then make a choice.
Simple stationary workbench It is not difficult to make, but it will be “tied” to a specific place. It can be used for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards.
Mobile desktop has small dimensions (approximately 80x70 cm), weight about 30 kg and only a vice. It is intended for working with small products and for minor repairs.
Composite workbench connected with bolts, so it can be easily disassembled. However, it is quite difficult to do it yourself.
Making a workbench project
The working carpentry table should be made of such dimensions that it is convenient to work on it.
Height The table directly depends on the height of the owner, who should be comfortable standing to perform any operations. For an average height person, the workbench can be from 70-90 cm in height.
Lenght and width The size of the workbench depends on the area of the room in which it will be installed. A table with a width of 80-100 cm and a length of at least two meters is very convenient.
Required fixtures and table configuration should depend on which hand the master will work with and what operations he will perform on the workbench.
Set up a workbench It's best to be near a window, but you'll still need additional lighting. In addition, sockets must be provided near the workplace.
Construction of a collapsible table can be reduced due to the small thickness of the material. In such a workbench you can make folding legs or a twist-off tabletop.
DIY workbench. Blueprints. Video instruction
A stationary workbench can be installed not only indoors, but also in the yard own home or dachas.
Making the base
First of all, you should make the frame of their beams with your own hands and fasten it in such a way that the base is as rigid as possible.
Most often, first, according to the drawing , grooves are made, and only then the entire structure is assembled. In this case, all joints are glued and fixed with clamps. If the workbench is collapsible, then all parts of the frame can be connected using metal corners.
To make the stationary structure even more reliable, several parts of the support frame can be secured to the wall. You can increase the stability of a carpentry workbench with wedge-shaped inserts or diagonal jumpers. They are fastened with self-tapping screws between top part frames and legs and are made of the same material as the table base.
Making a table top with various accessories
Workbench cover size should be a few centimeters larger than the base of the structure, then it will be convenient to work behind it.
- The boards are attached to three bars using metal corners, which are placed on the back side of the tabletop. Grooves must first be made for these bars.
- Then the boards are carefully adjusted to each other, sanded and coated with a protective solution. It is recommended to use drying oil or oil.
A recess is made at the end of the tabletop for vice. In this case, the vertical plate should form one plane with it. In addition, you will need a plywood pad, which will need to be placed at the bottom of the workbench.
The vice is applied to its location, and the location for the holes is marked. A vice is inserted into the finished recess and fastened with bolts and nuts to the table top so that its lips are located flush with the surface of the table top.
You also need to build stops on the carpentry workbench, which you can purchase or make yourself. It is not recommended to use round dowels or bolts as stops, since dowels do not secure parts well, and the bolt head can damage the workpiece.
It's quite easy to do pegs or rectangular stops. With their help, you can securely fix parts of any size. These stops are made from hard wood. You can simply make them rectangular, widen them at the top, or cut them out with a jigsaw and make them with a “spring.”
You can make holes in the tabletop for pegs or build it up with bars required thickness, screw them to the edge of the table and cover the other side with a bar. In order to fix any part, the sockets from each other should be located at a distance of half the travel of the vice.
The stationary workbench is ready, now you can work on it. However, if there is not enough space to install a desktop, then you can make a collapsible carpentry workbench.
Do-it-yourself collapsible workbench - arrangement
The procedure for making such a table is similar to that described above. Its main difference is that connecting parts requires use of bolted connections.
The advantage of such a workbench is not only that during its operation you can easily replace any parts. For example, every table becomes loose over time, and it is much easier to simply tighten the mounting bolts on it than to strengthen it with new screws and nails.
Of course, building a workbench with your own hands is not an easy task. But, having worked hard, you can end up with an excellent and comfortable workplace with various devices, at which work will bring joy.
All photos from the article
When carrying out carpentry work in his home, any amateur craftsman must have for them convenient device. It will guarantee the comfort and safety of your activities, and will also significantly intensify them.
Our article is devoted to how to make a woodworking bench on your own.
Typical desktop design
A carpentry workbench, in essence, is a massive and extremely stable work table on which wooden workpieces are processed different sizes. The larger the device, the heavier and larger elements can be processed on it.
However, you can work on it hand tools: saw, chisel, brace, etc., as well as mechanical: electric jigsaw, plane, drill, etc.
Layout of elements
A workbench for working with wood has the following typical elements.
- The working surface (tabletop, lid) is made of boards. They must be dry and have a thickness of at least 5–6 cm. The best option– use impregnated drying oil: oak, hornbeam, beech. Otherwise, the cover will wear out quickly.
- A vice is installed on the front side of the tabletop to secure the workpieces.
Note! If the length of the workbench is more than one meter, it is best to hang a couple of different vices for processing small and large elements. Large vices can be made of wood, and small ones can be made of metal.
- The supports (legs) are usually made from soft rocks: linden, pine, maple, etc. They are mated to each other with longitudinally spaced planks. This way the structure gains strength and stability.
- Fixed on supports in the space below the workbench cover, you can place pull-out or tightly fixed shelves, drawers or cabinets for tools.
- On the front side of the tabletop, before making a workbench for wood, you should drill holes for mounting wedges, clamps and other devices for fixing large workpieces.
- A recess should be made on the back side of the cover, necessary for processing small parts.
A workbench is an indispensable attribute of any carpentry workshop. It is a work table used for tooling workpieces, storing tools, materials, drawings and accessories.
In this article we will look at the design and dimensions of workbenches, offer an overview of the most popular factory models and introduce step by step instructions, following which you can make a homemade carpentry workbench.
1 Construction and design of carpentry workbenches
Just as for a blacksmith the main working tool is a grinding anvil, so in a carpentry workshop the main working element is a workbench. Such a work table is universal; it simultaneously acts as a place for cutting, processing and assembling wooden parts, storing working tools and accessories.
The basic part of the design of any workbench, no matter how many operations will be performed on it, is a regular tabletop made of hardwood (beech and oak are best). The thickness of the tabletop should be 60-70 mm, while a longitudinal groove is cut in the back along its entire length for storing small tools. Large fixtures are stored in the underbench - a shelf under the tabletop.
The carpentry workbench must have a vice, which is used to fix the workpieces being processed. The functionality of the table is significantly expanded by holes for installing clamps, which are drilled along the edge of the inner contour of the tabletop.
The overall height of the structure must be selected based on the height of the master; it usually varies between 70-80 cm. The width and length of the tabletop directly depend on the size of the workshop or garage; for a single-seat work table, the optimal length is 2 meters, the width is around 90 cm.
A stationary table can weigh up to 100 kilograms. If you plan to make a folding workbench, then you will need to take care of making it lighter by using less thick wood. The folding design implies the possibility of unscrewing the tabletop from the legs, while the legs themselves can be collapsible or telescopic.
In the workshop, it is best to place the workbench near the window, which will give the workplace natural light in daytime days. Availability artificial lighting is mandatory, you also need to place several sockets near the countertop to connect power tools.
1.1 Material selection and assembly
Planed timber measuring 100*70 mm is well suited for making the frame and legs; for the tabletop it is best to take planed oak or beech boards 4-5 cm thick. More cheap option- tabletop made of chipboard sheet, however, it will last less. Remember that the thicker the boards used, the heavier and more stable the carpentry workbench will be, which will have a positive effect on the ease of work.
Fastening elements are selected based on whether the table will be stationary (nails and screws are used) or prefabricated (bolts and nuts). From power tools for installation work you will need a drill, a grinder and a screwdriver, they will also come in handy Sander, however, you can get by with a regular plane.
A do-it-yourself carpentry workbench is made in two stages - assembling the frame and installing the table top. When assembling the base, you need to try to get the most rigid frame possible; this can be achieved by placing horizontal jumpers between the legs (at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor), which will later serve as a load-bearing element for installing shelves.
The frame beams can be connected to each other by gluing them into a tongue-and-groove system, but it is most convenient to use metal corners and self-tapping screws. You can increase the reliability of the structure by rigidly screwing one of the horizontal jumpers to the wall, but this solution is applicable only when making a stationary workbench.
Having finished with the base, you can move on to assembling the second part - the tabletop. If the work surface consists of several boards, you need to join them together as carefully as possible so that moisture and dust do not accumulate in the cracks. The boards are connected on 3 bars (side and central) located under the tabletop. The dimensions of the tabletop should be such that its contours extend beyond the base by 5-10 cm. Upon completion of assembly, the tabletop is sanded and covered with drying oil; the easiest way to secure it to the base is with steel corners.
You need to fasten the vice to the workbench using M12 bolts and nuts, and you must first cut holes in the tabletops for the bolt heads. You can place the vice in any place convenient for you, but not in the corner, since heavy load he can break off.
The construction of a carpentry workbench also requires the presence of stops, which can be purchased ready-made and secured with bolts, or made by hand. For the stops, holes are cut in the front part of the tabletop, in which the machined parts are placed. wooden blocks. For more reliable fixation, they can be made in the form of pegs expanding towards the top.
1.2 Homemade workbench (video)
2 Selecting a factory-made workbench
If it is not possible to make a homemade desktop workbench, it makes sense to pay attention to factory-made products. In the budget price category best choice there will be a Unipro 16900u desktop, which can be bought for less than 3 thousand rubles.
Unipro 16900u is great metal workbench, which is well suited for home amateur use. The work table has dimensions of 520*300 mm, which allows you to process workpieces up to 265 mm wide. On the surface of the tabletop there is a protractor, an inch and a metric scale, and there are also sliding holders for workpieces.
The Unipro 16900u model is designed for a total load of up to 100 kg, while the weight of the structure itself is 8 kg. Despite its compactness, the table is quite stable; its only drawback is the supplied bolts, which are made of soft metal. Reviews from owners indicate that it is very easy to tear off the bolt head with a bat, so immediately after purchase it makes sense to replace the bolts with better ones.
If you need a professional workbench, we recommend paying attention to the Master Cut series from Wolfcraft (Germany). The line includes metal tables, for which the manufacturer provides a 10-year guarantee, which indicates their highest quality.
Wolfcraft offers following models carpentry workbenches:
- Wolfcraft Master Cut 1500 - working area 78*50 cm, height 86 cm, can withstand a load of 200 kg. Price 24 thousand rubles.
- Wolfcraft Master 700 - features an adjustable height between 78-95 cm and a smaller table (68*39 cm). Designed for a load of up to 150 kg, cost - 17 thousand.
- Wolfcraft Master Cut 200 - the most affordable model in the line professional equipment(price 7 thousand). The table top for the workbench has dimensions of 30*44 cm, height - 80 cm. This is an excellent student's table that can be considered as a universal workbench for domestic use.
The German company's assortment also includes carpentry workbenches with drawers for storing tools - Wolfcraft Workshop. Their working surface is made of solid beech 30 mm thick and covered with a sheet of galvanized steel. Characteristic feature The Workshop series is modular - the client gets the opportunity to independently choose the configuration of the storage compartment, combining the shelves and drawers of different sizes offered in the catalog at his discretion.
The total load that the Workshop system can withstand is 600 kg, while the maximum weight per box should not exceed 600 kg. The cost of such equipment directly depends on its configuration; prices start from 40 thousand rubles.
A carpentry workbench is usually called a table of a special design with a hard and durable surface that allows various devices and mechanisms to be mounted on it. In addition, the surface of such a table must be adapted to rigidly attach additional stationary equipment to it ( circular saw, for example, or a milling cutter small size), used to process common materials such as wood or metal.
Before making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this device, as well as some of the design options that are especially popular.
Design requirements
The operating characteristics of the workbench table are:
- Its height, adjusted to the height of the user, allows you to work in comfortable conditions without slouching, maintaining a fairly comfortable position. For people of average height, this value can range from 70 to 90 cm.
- Dimensions of the tabletop, chosen based on the possibility of placing everything on it the necessary tool, as well as taking into account the dimensions of the workpieces being processed.
- A set of devices mounted on a workbench, determined by the need to perform certain operations and providing for the presence of several stops and a clamp (screw vice).
- Adaptation “to the hand” of its owner, who may also be left-handed.
Most suitable for self-made is a variant of a prefabricated workbench, consisting of a frame base with a tabletop installed on it. The length of such a structure usually does not exceed 2 meters (with a tabletop width of about 80–100 cm).
Before starting work, you should decide whether your workbench will be a stationary device, or whether it should be folding (collapsible).
Material selection
The most suitable material for constructing a stationary workbench is considered to be wood, from which the load-bearing base with support frames, as well as the tabletop itself, are made. For the manufacture of frames, standard planed timber with a cross section of 100×70 mm is best suited. The same timber, but with a slightly smaller cross-section (100×50 mm, for example), can be used as auxiliary jumpers that increase the rigidity of the frame base.
The workbench tabletop can be made from well-planed and tightly fitted boards, at least 5 cm thick. In addition, a ready-made solid sheet (an old solid door, for example) or a piece of laminated chipboard cut to the size of the table with a reliable and durable material can be used for its manufacture. coating.
When choosing a material, preference should be given hard rocks wood, such as beech, oak or maple.
Assembly of the structure
Making a workbench begins with assembling a frame base, onto which a tabletop of the type you have chosen is subsequently installed. The order of operations performed is as follows:
- First of all, the supporting sidewalls are assembled, arranged in the form of two frame structures made of timber with a cross-section of 100×70 mm.
- Then these frames are connected at the top by two longitudinal beams, which, together with the upper lintels of the frames, serve as supports for the tabletop. (Please note that for reliable fastening individual elements between each other in the design we are describing, it is best to use the classic “tenon-to-groove” connection with mandatory gluing of the joining areas).
- The lower parts of the support frames are fastened with longitudinal jumpers made of 100x50 mm timber, which are mounted at a level of 15–20 cm from the floor. (To fasten them, it is best to use a bolted connection recessed from the body of the beam).
- In the process of manufacturing frame supports, grooves and tenons are first prepared in the workpieces, after which the entire structure is assembled in one step (after applying glue to the joint areas).
During assembly Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the next working point, which determines the quality of all subsequent installation. When preparing the base of the workbench, at each stage of the work performed, it is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of individual elements correspond to the design data, and also to control the horizontalness of their installation using a building level.
If the tabletop is made from planed boards, the latter must be tightly fitted to one another, so that there are no cracks in which debris usually accumulates. Its dimensions should be slightly larger (1.5–2 cm) than the dimensions of the supporting base formed by frames and longitudinal bars, which guarantees the convenience of placing auxiliary equipment on the table.
When assembling the tabletop, the boards are nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws to transverse bars located on its reverse plane. At the base itself, special grooves must be prepared for these bars. The surface of the finished countertop is first carefully sanded and then treated with a protective solution (drying oil is usually used for these purposes). To secure it to the base, special metal corners can be additionally used.
Regarding the installation of working devices and mechanisms (vises, stops, etc.) on the workbench, the following can be said:
- It is most convenient to place the working vice at the end of the tabletop, having previously prepared a small recess for fasteners at the installation site. On the back side of the table in the fastening area, it is necessary to provide a plywood pad to protect the surface from damage.
- In addition, special stops should be located on the surface of the tabletop to fix the workpiece in work area and making it easier to work with. On wooden tabletop It is most convenient to mount rectangular stops (pegs), which are adjusted in height to the workpiece being processed and securely fix it.
- Sometimes stops are made by simply extending the tabletop using bars of suitable thickness, fixed at its edge and covered on the reverse side with a limiting strip.
In the event that there is not enough space in the garage or workshop, you can make a folding workbench, consisting of a tabletop that folds against the wall and a special folding frame.
This design is very easy to disassemble and when folded takes up very little space. When making it, you should pay attention to the fact that the width of the support posts of the folding workbench does not exceed half the length of the tabletop (so that they do not interfere with each other when folding).
It is also necessary to ensure that the upper cross member on the supports is located below the board with the hinge of the folding tabletop. The material for making a folding workbench table can be any monolithic piece of chipboard.
The supporting frames of the structure are made of 100x40 millimeter bars, the articulation of which is made using pre-prepared metal plates, secured to the posts and lintels using bolts of the appropriate size.
Video
This video shows the process of building a carpentry workbench:
Photo
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