Where to ditch the walls for wiring. How to ditch walls for wiring with improvised and professional equipment? Is shredding always necessary?

The most popular and common way to conduct electrical wiring is a hidden option. It got its name because of the way cables and wires are laid in grooves made on the wall, ceiling, or floor. The device of the grooves is the process of strobe, the groove itself is called a strobe or a strobe (whoever calls it what). This article will discuss the rules for performing gating, and the tools used in the work.

Chasing solid walls

We can make a strobe - in a concrete, brick or block wall.

Shredding wooden walls

Our specialists are able to work with walls made of all types of materials, including wood.

Execution of work
Full construction;

Is free
we arrive at the object;

Fixing the cost;

We conclude an agreement
to work;

Gating rules

Chasing walls for wiring is possible only at right angles and nothing else

Installation of wiring in a strobe is a closed way of laying wires. After laying the wire, as a rule, there remains a space that is sealed up, flush with the wall with a gypsum mixture, for further finishing with finishing materials. As a result, when the repair is already over, and a couple of years have passed, it will be difficult for you to determine exactly where exactly the wires go. If we regard this situation from an aesthetic point of view, then it’s really good when you don’t see any wires, but only flat walls. On the practical side, in the future, when we suppose, we have to drill a hole in the wall, it will be necessary to remember that, somewhere in the thickness of the wall, wires are hidden and a strobe passes. Modern life does not stand still, now in every hardware store you can buy a wiring detector that will show exactly where the wires lie. The wiring is laid by professionals from the Mania Repair company, always goes in predictable places, and is laid in compliance with all the rules and regulations, which we will discuss below.

• All strobes are made straight strictly horizontally and vertically, if your room has sloping walls, then in this case the strobes are made parallel to the slope.
• From all kinds of networks, such as pipes through which water flows or gas passes, the grooves must be at least 45 cm away.
• When installing a strobe under the ceiling, they recede down at least 25 cm. If another branch is required during operation, it is also lowered to the same distance.
• From the corners - openings, doors and windows retreat at least 15 cm.
• The dimensions of the strobe depend directly on the thickness and number of cables that must pass through it, usually a groove of 25 * 25 mm is enough in the standard version, provided that the wire passes without a corrugated pipe. If the project provides for the presence of a corrugated pipe or cable channel, the groove must be deepened and expanded to the required size.
• In reinforced concrete walls at a depth of 4-5 cm, a mesh of metal reinforcing wire passes, it is not recommended to violate its integrity. With a standard groove depth of 25mm, it is almost impossible to get to it.
• In the event that the wall is leveled, during the repair process it will also be covered with a layer of plaster - of sufficient thickness. Wires can be laid in a corrugated pipe in the thickness of the plaster. It will take much less time than making a strobe.
• For switches and sockets, the depth of the strobe is increased - this is done so that the wire goes into the socket without problems, which is mounted in a drilled hole in the wall, to fix switches and sockets in it. Even in this case, the metal mesh of reinforcement in the wall must not be broken.

Tools used for chasing walls

There is one old proven method that does not require electricity, but it is very long and labor-intensive - this is a chisel and a hammer. Due to the blows inflicted by the hammer on the chisel, it drives it into the wall, thereby picking off its upper layer. This procedure is repeated until the strobe meets the desired requirements. Power tools are used to make the job easier.

• The most suitable tool for chasing walls is called a wall chaser. It is equipped with two cutting discs, by adjusting which you can set the parameters of the future shtraba. In one pass, this tool saws through two parallel lines, between them there is a middle of the material from which the wall is made. The middle, in turn, is easy to remove with a perforator and a chisel (special nozzle). There are several advantages to working with a wall chaser - a smooth chisel, the ability to connect a construction vacuum cleaner to remove dust.
• In second place among the tools is the grinder, unlike the wall chaser, it is equipped with one disk, so it makes only one cut in one pass, which is not very convenient. In addition, working with it is quite dangerous, if the tool breaks, it can lead to serious injury.
• The puncher closes the top three - its use is justified only together with a grinder or a wall chaser. Using a puncher as the main tool for making grooves in the wall is ineffective, the strobe turns out to be curved, and it is very difficult to adjust the depth.

Chasing brick and concrete walls

If we are talking about laying wiring in a new room that has not yet been in operation, most likely the walls will be covered with a layer of plaster. The minimum layer thickness fluctuates around 3-4 cm, this is quite enough to lay the electrical wiring without gating, and cover it with a layer of plaster on top.

If for some reason this method is not suitable, the markings are transferred to the wall according to the scheme, where the strobe will pass and switches with sockets will be mounted. Further, the entire room in which work is performed is de-energized to prevent accidents, and work is carried out according to the markings. Depending on the tool used, 2 parallel grooves are cut, the dimensions are selected depending on the thickness of the wire and the quantity. The core between the two grooves was hollowed out with a perforator.

These procedures are identical for walls made of solid materials such as brick, concrete, and various modern building blocks.

Shtroba in a wooden wall

In principle, all of the above tools are suitable for this work, except for a puncher; instead of it, it is better to use a chisel and a hammer. The theory is the same as when working with concrete - two parallel cuts are made, the core is removed with a chisel. There are two more tools that will help you work with wood:

• Circular saw - with good skills in working with this tool, all the work can be done only with it. The work is done in several passes, with each new repetition the cut gradually expands to the desired size.
• Milling installation - for laying neat strobes, use a manual milling cutter. According to the markings, a flat bar is fixed on the wall, and a power tool is driven along it like a guide, gradually expanding and deepening to a strobe.

Can or can't ditch load-bearing walls

Bearing walls can be ditched if necessary. Only the depth of the strobe is limited, up to the thickness of the reinforcing cage, which is located in the concrete load-bearing wall. If the load-bearing wall is made of brick, then there are no restrictions on the depth within reasonable aisles.

In theory, before starting work, a project is being developed that takes into account all the walls, their location, whether they are load-bearing, and the possibility of laying strobes in them. Further, the project is coordinated in the relevant authorities, and only after that work begins.

Safety precautions for wall chasing and work procedure

Wiring work is carried out according to certain rules, which are written in this article above. First, a plan is drawn, it can be drawn both on a regular piece of paper and in special programs for drawing. During its development, all the subtleties and the location of future sockets and switches are carefully thought out.

Then the plan is transferred to the wall, dots mark the places where switches, junction boxes, sockets and chandeliers will be located in the future. Then all the points on the wall are connected into a single system of lines, along which the strobe is laid.

• If gating occurs in an old room that was in use, those places through which the wiring will pass are examined using a special detector that is able to determine whether there are previously laid routes in these places. Only after completing this procedure, you can start working on the wall chasing.
• The hole for the installation of switches and sockets is best done with a special nozzle on a puncher called a crown. Crowns come in different diameters, so before starting work, you need to choose the size that suits you.
• Chasing the walls of the procedure is not only dirty, but also very noisy, all work must be done strictly within the allotted hours, designed for noisy work.
• If wall chasing occurs in one room, and not in the entire apartment, then before starting work, it is better to hang the doorway with a wet cloth, so it will be possible to avoid the spread of dust and dirt throughout all rooms. All work must be carried out strictly in a respirator, goggles on the eyes and gloves on the hands. In the process of work, a lot of various particles, and small fragments from the walls fly in unpredictable directions, so you should not neglect your own protection measures.
• The wiring diagram that we talked about earlier should be saved at least until the next repair. If you have to drill or gouge something, after checking the plan, you will clearly know whether it is possible to do work in this place or not.

Many of you in your childhood rested with your grandmother in the village. In almost every collective farm house, electrical wiring was laid overhead: using insulators, at some distance from the wall. The wire was used high-quality, with cloth insulation: it’s not scary to touch.

This method is still used today: in wooden houses and baths, and just like that, “in retro style”.

However, from the point of view of rationality, the laying method is not the most reliable. Firstly, there is a possibility of damage to the wiring by any sharp object. And if there are small children in the house, or pets with strong teeth, the wires turn into a source of danger. Secondly, the aesthetics are, to put it mildly, controversial.

In wooden houses, the problem is solved quite simply: there are special mounting boxes for wiring. Different colors, sizes, with fire protection. But what about in houses with concrete (brick, plaster and other) walls?

Cable laying in strobes

Regardless of the method of wall decoration (drywall, plaster, curly wallpaper ...), the cable, which contains life-threatening voltage, should be hidden in the main wall. During the construction of typical panel houses, electricians did not have a headache at all about wiring. Recesses were organized in the walls in advance: lay the cable, grab it with alabaster, and you can plaster.

What about when building a new house? You can pre-design cable routing routes, and even mount cable channels in brickwork. This is a progressive method that ensures the strength and safety of electrical wiring.

But in reality, the cable is laid after construction is completed, before the fine finishing of the walls (and often after it). The situation is the same if you bought new furniture, and the closet traditionally covered the outlet.

Another reason to shift the wires: repairs in the apartment. In old houses, the power cables in the walls have an aluminum core. It’s not that it’s completely bad, but given the old age of the wires and the new requirements of the PUE (electrical installation rules), it is better to lay other wires with strong insulation and a copper conductor. And the standard arrangement of sockets-switches, to put it mildly, is far from perfect.

The purchase of powerful electrical appliances, such as a boiler, air conditioner, electric stove, requires a power line to be connected.

So, do-it-yourself wall chasing for wiring - how realistic is it?

Important! Laying the cable to the depth of the plaster is unacceptable. Fire safety requirements are violated (when the wiring ignites, paper wallpapers can “take up”), and the likelihood of damage from the outside increases. Only inside the wall.

Proper wiring in strobes

Security Notes:

If desired, you can lay the cable in the corrugation. This will make it possible to replace the wiring without opening the wall.

Ways of chasing walls

Homemade dust collector for grinder

Of course, there are ready-made devices on sale that turn your angle grinder into an effective wall chaser. That's just the cost of such nozzles is approaching the price of the angle grinder itself.

Again, the decision is made based on the amount of work to be done.

However, there is no reason to be upset. A homemade dust collector can be made literally from construction debris.

A few scraps of laminate, a piece of plastic sewer pipe, and a household vacuum cleaner (preferably a cyclone type).

You can even adjust the wheels, the scope for creativity is not limited. In addition to the main purpose, the nozzle (even if homemade) increases the safety of work. Modern cutting discs no longer scatter to the sides, as they used to. And they don't break often. But the stones flying out from under the grinder can injure the operator.

With a dust collector, chasing will be comfortable and safe.

Cable laying and installation of junction boxes (sockets, switches)

We figured out how to properly ditch the walls for wiring: of course, it all starts with the correct markings.

Tip: when marking the places for installing boxes, try to take out the lines as far as possible. After chasing, all your hole center markings will disappear.

Now consider how to properly lay the cable.

After the strobe is formed, it is cleaned with a vacuum cleaner. Then, with a gloved hand, or by applying a thin rail, the uniformity of the depth and the absence of protruding parts in the strobe cavity are checked. This is important: if the wire sticks out above the wall, security will be compromised in this place.

It makes no sense to install boxes in advance if the walls are to be finished (thickness will change). Therefore, the wires are laid first, but before entering the niches for the boxes, 10-15 cm of cable free play remains, without putty. For installation, leave 15-20 cm of wire. You can’t save money, if something goes wrong, you will have to do the installation again.

The wire itself can be fixed traditionally, using asbestos (gypsum), or fixed with special clips inside the strobe.

Then putty is made to the level of the wall. At the same time, the free running of the cable in front of the installation site of the boxes is maintained.

Tip: before laying the cable, mark the ends (where you came from, where to connect), especially if several wires are put into the box. When laying several cables in one strobe, they are laid in parallel, and not on top of each other. It is not allowed to twist one wire around another.

Before final grooving, draw a laying plan, with accurate measurements in relation to the corners.

This will avoid problems when drilling walls in the future.

Important! All work related to the supply of voltage to the cables is carried out only after the putty (plaster) has completely dried. Before applying the top coat, also wait for the putty to dry completely in the strobes.

Related videos

Chasing with a wall chaser

The laying of internal electrical networks along a new route during the period of repair or reconstruction of the premises is not uncommon. There are two wiring methods: open and hidden. The second method is the most common, but at the same time it becomes necessary to make strobes - grooves in which an electrical wire or cable is hidden.

The work on chasing walls can be divided into several stages.

Stage 1 - project development

It makes no sense to start work until the power supply project for the building or premises is in hand. The project documentation contains:

• electrical cable (or wire) layout plan;
• installation locations of sockets and switches;
• the brand and cross-section of the wire (these characteristics affect the width and depth of the strobe).

Looking ahead. A brick wall is chased only with a wall chaser and a grinder, and a concrete wall can be chased using any of the methods described below, but using a chisel and a hammer is the most time-consuming option.

Stage number 2 - study of the requirements of state building codes and regulations

This step can be skipped if there is a project developed by competent specialists. But, since there are enthusiasts who decide to do without the help of a designer, it does not bother them to familiarize themselves with the basic rules for laying electrical wiring:

• wall ditching can only be done in the horizontal and vertical direction. Laying the wire at an arbitrary angle is prohibited. An exception to this rule are strobes performed indoors with sloping walls. An example of this is the attic;
• strobe distance should be:
  • from floor slabs (horizontal groove) - no more than 150 mm;
  • from the corners of the room, openings - window and door (vertical groove) - at least 100 mm;
  • from internal gas supply pipes (vertical direction) - at least 400 mm.

• the geometric dimensions of the section of the strobe (depth and width) depend on the section of the wires and their number per one groove. But these dimensions should not be more than 25 mm;
• the length of the straight section of the strobe should not exceed 3 m;
• the furrow route from the junction box to the socket (or switch) should have a minimum of turns. The ideal option is one transition from horizontal to vertical (turns at the junctions of walls and partitions are not taken into account here);
• horizontal chasing is prohibited:
  • load-bearing structures;
  • seams between panels in panel houses.

Regarding load-bearing structures, there is some exception in the regulatory documents: if the furrow does not exceed three meters in length and 25 mm in depth (that is, the integrity of the reinforcement of reinforced concrete structures is not violated during gating), then its implementation is allowed.

Stage number 3 - checking the walls for old wiring

Chipping with a perforator

From a safety point of view, it is impossible to drill and beat walls if the location of the existing hidden wiring is not known. It can be detected using special devices:

• detector for detecting rebar, cavities, wood and hidden wiring. Such a device is not cheap, it is unprofitable to buy it for private repairs. But with this detector you can determine:
  • the place of laying the electrical wire;
  • laying depth;
  • the strength of the current passing through the wire. This indicator also determines whether a power or low-current wire passes in a given place;
• indicator screwdriver. It can also be used to detect hidden wiring, but this method is less accurate: the result will not be reliable if:
  • the wire is at a depth of more than one and a half centimeters;
  • low-current wires are hidden in the wall (the indicator does not respond to them);
  • the power cable is laid in double insulation.

Stage number 4 - markup

Shtroblenie grinder

There are two ways to mark the wiring route:

• way 1- marking the line from the switchboard to each room, and from it to the installation sites of electrical accessories (sockets, switches, lamps, etc.);
• way 2- from the places of installation of electrical accessories to a common highway and further to the switchboard.

Regardless of the marking method, it is first necessary to determine the location of energy consumers (refrigerator, lamps, etc.). Otherwise, you will have to subsequently use extension cords and tees, which is not recommended by manufacturers of household appliances.

Markup order:

• the place of installation of the switchboard is marked;
• installation of sockets, lamps and switches is marked.

Thus, the beginnings and ends of the power grid routes are determined. It is convenient to mark straight sections using a marking cord rubbed with a dry dye (blue, charcoal, chalk, etc.): the cord pulled tightly between two points (the beginning and end of the segment) is pulled 300-400 mm from the wall, and then and abruptly let go. As a result of such an action, a straight line will be beaten off on the wall. This operation must be performed by two people.

Short sections can be marked with a pencil (chalk) and a ruler.

Squares, marking compasses and building plumb lines are used to mark turns and corners.

Stage number 5 - chasing the wall

Mark two lines of the edges of the strobe when chasing with a chisel and hammer, otherwise your strobe will be very uneven

The order in which this step is performed depends on the instrument being pulled out. You can ditch the walls with:

• wall chaser;
• perforator;
• grinders;
• hammer and chisel.

Chasing with a wall chaser

With this tool, you can cut a furrow in a matter of minutes. A wall chaser is a modification of a conventional grinder. It is equipped with two diamond discs and a soleplate for moving along the wall. In order to remove dust, the structure has a branch pipe for connecting a construction vacuum cleaner.

The distance between the discs and the depth of penetration into the wall are adjustable. A wall chaser is the most advanced tool for cutting grooves in walls today, but, unfortunately, it is very expensive, so buying it for one-time work is wasteful.

Chipping with a perforator

• Holes are drilled along the marking at a distance of 10-20 mm. The puncher at this stage works in the combined mode of impact and drilling. The diameter of the drill is selected according to the width of the strobe.
• Then the puncher switches to the “Blow” mode, and the drill changes to a special blade (strobe). The nozzle has a curved shape, its end is pointed, and there is a groove along the body. The task of this operation is to remove all jumpers between the holes.

The groove from under the puncher is not quite neat, in addition, large pieces of plaster can fall off at the border of the strobe. It should be noted that the perforator is not suitable for chasing a monolith or slabs made of heavy concrete.

Shtroblenie grinder

• A diamond blade is installed for working on concrete.
• Two parallel lines are cut along the markup - the boundaries of the groove.
• With the help of a perforator, the body of the wall, enclosed between the slots, is knocked out.

With this method, the strobe is obtained much more accurately than when performed with a single puncher. But during the operation of the grinder, a lot of dust is generated. Therefore, it is better to work together: one person works with a grinder, and the second with a construction vacuum cleaner.

Hammer and chisel

• With the help of these simple tools, recesses are made along the borders of the strobe. The chisel is oriented along the marking line.
• Having turned the chisel perpendicular to the direction of the route and, placing it between the grooves obtained, gradually knock out the wall body to the desired depth.

Read on for 5 ways to clean up an old brick wall.

- a detailed guide to the preparation of plaster, applying, leveling and working with decorative plaster.

- a popular article with all the details.

This is the most time-consuming and inefficient way of gating. In addition, it is unrealistic to use it on concrete walls. But in other cases, if there is no suitable tool at hand, this method can be applied (especially if it is intended to punch a furrow of small length).

Comfort, functionality, safety of a residential, administrative, commercial facility depend on the quality of engineering communications. Technical standards are indicated in SNiP and other acts regulating the main parameters of the network. Chasing walls for hidden wiring can be done independently or with the involvement of hired workers. In both cases, you need to know the rules for its implementation so that there are no problems during operation. In order to evaluate the result, you need to know how to properly ditch the walls.

The strength of the building structure depends on the condition of each of its elements. Violation of the norms will lead to a weakening of the bearing part of the structure - this is unacceptable. Some basic SNiP requirements for work on load-bearing walls, the implementation of which is mandatory:

• strobes are located strictly vertically, horizontally. Diagonal cable routing is not allowed;
• distance from the floor slab - at least 150 mm;
• the strobe is located no closer than 100 mm from the corners, window, door openings;
• if a gas pipe passes in the room, then the strobe is performed at a distance of more than 400 mm from it;
• length up to 3000 mm. This is the maximum distance for installing a junction box, socket, switch.

A more complete list of necessary requirements is spelled out in SNiP, but it is these provisions that are considered the main ones. A significant part of the hidden wiring is done in armored hoses. It is very convenient for maintenance. It is always possible, without violating the decorative finish, to replace the failed section. Inside the route, a wire is pulled out with a new segment fixed at the end. When determining the depth of the strobe, the diameter of the armor should be taken into account. The minimum layer of plaster cover is 5 mm. If the hose is 20 mm in diameter, then the strobe must be at least 25 mm deep.

Work planning

Understanding all the upcoming processes, proper time allocation, the ability to use the selected tools and technologies will significantly reduce the time of work. Step by step implementation of the plan will help to avoid serious mistakes. The time spent on preparation pays off with the speed of work and its quality. Some restrictions should be strictly followed. Those structures that are forbidden to be ditched must be bypassed by the route.

For this reason, work is often added, costs increase. But you can't risk your home's safety. It is strictly forbidden to ditch reinforced concrete floors. Serious fracture loads occur on the lower face of the slab. By violating the integrity of the structure, the owner puts all the inhabitants of the house at risk. Only internal voids are used. Drilling small holes is allowed, but not making a strobe.

Drawing up a wiring diagram

At this stage, a work plan is being prepared. If the housing is to be renovated, then it is worth finding a wiring diagram for the existing system. And, in accordance with the wiring installation rules, finalize the routes of its laying with additional lines in the intended places. During construction, the communications plan is made from scratch. The number of devices is determined by the need for their placement for comfortable and convenient use. If it is partially intended to use old strobes, then it is necessary to remove the old wires. In case of non-compliance with the requirements, the channels are brought to the required state. The diagram indicates:

• power supply point;
• user devices (sockets, switches, etc.);
• switching points (junction boxes, electrical panels);
• the exact location of laying routes.

The direct connection of power and wiring must be entrusted to a specialist. Gating is classified as general construction work, the operation can be performed independently or by employees. In some cases, it is advisable to install open wiring. For this, special boxes and fasteners are on sale.

strobe marking

According to the plan, preliminary lines are drawn on the surfaces of the walls with a pencil, chalk, marker. The operation is carried out using control and measuring instruments: level, plumb line, tape measure. They check for compliance with the norms of SNiPs regarding the minimum distances from floor slabs, openings on load-bearing walls. On piers, additional interior structures that are not power, it is advisable to follow the recommended technologies, although formally this is not a violation. Marks are applied by any available method.

The main thing is that they can be seen in the process of work. It is very convenient to use the laser level. The accuracy of the tool will allow you to mark the gating pattern with a minimum tolerance for deviations. If there is no such tool, then you can use a hydraulic level, a manual analogue, a plumb line.

When there is no control tool at hand, the vertical is determined by a homemade plumb line. Any heavy object is tied to a cord, thread. Having marked the vertical along the wall, determine the horizontal. The distance is plotted along the vertical mark. Let's take a long leg 2 m. According to the formula, multiple values ​​\u200b\u200bwill be 1.5 m and 2.5 m. Taking a rail, a cord, mark the required dimensions on it. We combine the points, we get a triangle with sides of 2 m - vertical, 2.5 m - diagonal, 1.5 m - horizontal. With careful operation, the measurement accuracy is comparable to that of a laser level.

Tool preparation

The operability of devices, mechanisms, devices is checked. You need to make sure you have supplies. It is advisable to have in stock additional drills for a puncher, discs for a grinder. If there is manual work, then you need to have not one, but several chisels. A good sharpening of the cutting edge will speed up the process, making it less time consuming. The presence of all the tools necessary to perform all stages of work is checked.

Chasing tools

The quality of the work performed depends both on the skills of the master and on the equipment he uses. Depending on the material of the wall, you need to use the most suitable tools for this. The choice may be determined by the volume of work, the availability of equipment, financial capabilities. Most of the work is done with the following tools:

• chisel. It is better to use a construction tool sold in special stores. It is not worth using a hardened tool steel chisel designed for working on metal. It's too fragile. Chips and tool failure are possible. Viscosity, strength of the metal must be such as to withstand shock loads, the impact of abrasive particles;
• ordinary drill. The tool is indispensable when working on wooden, brick walls. With certain skills on these surfaces with a drill, you can very quickly perform gating. For work on bricks, blocks, plaster, it is better to use a drill in carbide soldering;
• perforator. High performance in operations with concrete make it indispensable. The puncher is used as an independent tool for chasing, and is used together with a grinder;
• hammer drill. It differs from the standard model by the presence of a longitudinal vibration mechanism during rotation. It cannot be used as a jackhammer. The impact power is significantly lower than that of a perforator, therefore, when processing factory-made reinforced concrete panels, it is ineffective. Monolithic, block, brick structures are quite acceptable to ditch with an impact drill;
• Bulgarian. Universal tool for working with metal, brick, concrete. High rotation speed and special design allow you to make a high-quality cut on the surface to the desired depth. Two parallel lines along the dimensions of the groove are processed by a grinder, the middle is removed with a chisel, a perforator;
• a circular saw. Apply special models for cutting bricks, tiles. They are small in size, for installing a diamond blade. According to the technical characteristics, they are excellent for chasing. Work is safer than a similar operation with a grinder. Do not use circular saws for wood. It is not safe. May damage the instrument;
• wall chaser. Professional tool for operations on hard surfaces. A special mechanism with two discs allows you to set the desired depth and width of the groove. Provision is made for connecting a vacuum cleaner to collect dust. The most productive way to make a strobe quickly, with high quality and minimal pollution of the room.

How to ditch a concrete wall for wiring?

During construction, the basic wiring network is already being laid. Partially it can be used for redevelopment, repair. Gating in a panel house is complicated by some restrictions. This applies to the size of the strobe along the bearing wall. It is not recommended to make it deeper than 2–2.5 cm. In the production of reinforced concrete panels, a margin of safety is laid.

But it is not recommended to violate the integrity of the front surfaces. The strength decreases due to the redistribution of loads. If there is no urgent need to ditch a new route for wiring, then it is better to refuse to work on load-bearing walls. And if the operation is permissible, then it must be done as carefully as possible. It is better to do this with special equipment, a grinder. It is undesirable to work with a puncher on a bearing wall.

Interroom concrete floors do not have such severe restrictions, so it is better to lay the main part of the wiring route along them. But you should not get carried away with the depth of the trench. 20-25 mm will be enough to lay the cable and cover this area with decorative trim. The most common tool for self-chasing is a perforator. Today, almost every economic man has it.

It is better to use a hammer drill, and not an impact drill, which is effective in working on brick and monolithic walls, where concrete is of less hardness. A special technology for the production of factory panels provides for a number of operations for strengthening and aging the mixture. It acquires qualities that are unique in hardness, with which an impact drill cannot cope, especially if the house is old.

Holes of the required depth are made sequentially along the marking line with a drill, with a diameter equal to the width of the groove. Then the jumpers in the concrete are removed with a spatula or the same drill, but with the rotation function turned off. The puncher works in the mode of a jackhammer. The same method is used when removing the middle part of the track after the diamond disc of the grinder has passed along the edges of the track.

The rules for gating for electrical wiring in panel structures provide for the removal of part of the hardened sand-cement composition. It is impossible to touch the reinforcement of concrete walls. When a metal bar is too close to the surface and interferes, it is still not cut off. Gently deepen the area under it with a perforator and run the cable there.

Many structures today are built from aerated concrete. Lightweight material with excellent energy saving characteristics. It is much softer than factory reinforced concrete panels. You can even cut it with an ordinary hacksaw, so making a strobe in aerated concrete is not difficult, it is much more important not to damage it. With good masonry, a flat surface is obtained with a minimum plaster layer, so you need to know how to properly wire this material. The thickness of the bearing wall is greater than that of ordinary concrete, so there are no strict restrictions on what the depth of the strobe for wiring should be. But you should not get carried away so that the cable does not end up behind the dew point in the wall.

How to drill a brick wall for wiring?

A significant proportion of real estate is made up of houses made of masonry materials. Brick, building blocks have approximately the same strength characteristics. It is much easier to make wall wiring from such materials than when working with concrete.

The masonry mixture is comparable in hardness to the base material, but more often it is a little softer. This feature can be used when chasing walls. It is easy to make horizontal sections of the route yourself in the seams between bricks and blocks. In our life, a large number of different household appliances. Particularly valuable in these conditions is the convenient location of power supply, regulation, and switching devices.

Housewives spend a lot of time in the kitchen, so a significant proportion of orders for wall chasing are requests to equip this room with additional sockets and light sources. Every man can do this job. A brick wall can be quickly processed with a hand tool.

Wiring on a wooden wall

Difficult task for the non-professional. The strobe can disrupt the aesthetics of the interior when surface finishing with decorative materials is not provided. The route will still have to be closed, therefore, in this situation, preference is given to another method - open wiring along the wall without gating, in a special box. It is advisable to make strobes when decorative processing is provided, along which the track will remain. Here you will need the skill of working with wood and knowledge of the rules for laying communication on this material:

• do not use plastic tabs for switches, sockets. Only metal sleeves are used;
• cables are laid in an armored steel hose. Polymeric corrugated pipes cannot be used in wooden structures;
• passages through walls are also made in protective metal elements. On sale there are sets of sleeves. It is allowed to conduct wiring in general-purpose metal pipes;
• cable connections must be made in boxes with free access. It is strictly forbidden to leave such areas under the skin.

It is possible to practically implement a hidden wiring plan with chasing wooden walls using manual and mechanical devices, tools:

• drill. Holes are drilled to the desired depth along the marked route. Then the partitions are removed with a hand tool. After the holes are drilled perpendicular to the wall, the tool is tilted and the partitions are removed at an angle, leveling and cleaning the track;
• milling machine. The cutter of the required diameter is set to a predetermined depth relative to the support table, then the passage is carried out. It is often wise to make a strobe not to the full depth at once. Two or three passes, each 5 to 10 mm, will make this operation faster;
• chisels, chisel, mallet. Work requires some skills, time, physical strength. With a short track length, this is a completely acceptable solution. Making strobes throughout the housing in this way is very long and tiring;
• hacksaws of a special design. These include an award, a grooving tool, or a hacksaw with a butt, an upper stiffness bar, which is also most often done with an open blade. Some general purpose hand saws are designed so that the handle does not get in the way of making a cut on a flat surface. Some models of modern hacksaws have an adjustable handle;
• a circular saw. A fast and accurate way to make a strobe. Two parallel cuts are easy to perform even by a non-professional. Removing the middle part won't take long either;
• planes. Rarely used method. You need a special tool for making grooves and samples. Today, this method is used by individual masters of the old school, who have the appropriate tool and the skill to work with it.

How to ditch walls for wiring without dust?

Most city houses are made of concrete and brick. Leveling plaster is made from gypsum, sand-cement, lime mixtures. All these materials during mechanical processing form a suspension, which complicates the work of the master, pollutes, and harms the objects in the room. Exposure of dust to the respiratory organs, mucous membranes of the eyes, nasal cavity is not desirable. Storming is one of the most “dirty” operations during construction and repair. There are ways to significantly reduce the amount of dust in the air:

• use professional equipment. The wall chaser is equipped with an efficient dust collection mechanism. A high-performance vacuum cleaner connected to it captures particles of processed materials;
• use a conventional or professional construction vacuum cleaner. The method is used when processing walls with a grinder. When properly positioned, the device captures a significant amount of dust. However, the efficiency is noticeably lower than when working with a wall chaser;
• hydration. Not the best method, but if you cannot use a vacuum cleaner, then this method will slightly reduce the concentration of suspended matter in the air. Moistening the walls to the desired degree is rarely acceptable in practice and is often undesirable for the building structure. Moisture does not penetrate deeply, but still there is less dust. Reduces the concentration of suspended matter humidification of the air in the room immediately before starting work. Do it with a spray bottle. If the air in the room is treated every few minutes, the dust content will noticeably decrease.

It will not be possible to completely get rid of the suspension of building materials, so you need to work in special glasses and respirators. Preservation of human health in any type of work is a priority. Going under the wiring in housing on your own will save money. Difficulties in implementation are not expected.