Northern kiwi: pruning according to the rules. Kiwi, care rules, rules for the formation of kiwi vines, how to achieve maximum yield

Lemons and oranges grown on the windowsill have not surprised anyone for a long time. Therefore, amateur flower growers are constantly trying to "domesticate" new crops. You can grow "in captivity" and kiwi. If you set a goal, from seeds in a few years you can get consistently fruiting plants.

Kiwi at home

In nature, kiwi (the plant is known to botanists under the name Chinese actinidia) is a tree-like liana that prefers a tropical or subtropical climate. On the tops of the shoots, whole clusters of large fruits ripen, which look like very large gooseberries. Depending on the species, they can be smooth or rough to the touch.

In nature, the kiwi liana reaches 7–10 m in length.

In principle, there is nothing difficult in creating a microclimate for kiwi that is close to optimal. But the plant belongs to the category of dioecious. This means that for fruiting, you must have at least two copies - male and female. They can only be distinguished during flowering. The first, acting as pollinators, lack a pistil, but there are many stamens. One male plant enough for pollination of five or six female ones. The only self-pollinating kiwifruit variety in existence is Jenny. But in this variety, the presence of a number of male plants has a positive effect on productivity.

The presence of a male plant is useful even if the variety is self-pollinating

Video: how to determine the sex of a kiwi plant

Kiwi flower growers are valued not only for fruiting, but also for flowering, long and plentiful. Large five- or six-petalled flowers gradually change color from pure white to yellowish cream, lemon or lime.

Fruits at home, as a rule, ripen less than the description of a particular kiwi variety promises. But in terms of the content of vitamins, macro- and microelements, taste, they are in no way inferior to those grown on outdoors. Ripe fruits are easily separated from the vine. They are stored in the refrigerator, the approximate “shelf life” is one and a half to two weeks.

"Homemade" kiwis are small, but very tasty

There are no problems with obtaining kiwi seeds at home. They can be taken from any berry bought in the store. But seedlings grown in this way extremely rarely inherit the varietal characteristics of the "parent", and taste qualities fruits leave much to be desired. Therefore, they are most often used as a stock, and any seedling of a certain variety purchased in a specialized nursery acts as a scion.

Viable seeds can be obtained from the kiwi fruit, which can be bought at any grocery store.

The harvest from kiwi grown from seeds will have to wait a long time. As a rule, such plants bloom for the first time no earlier than six years after planting.

Planting material is desirable to obtain from mature and healthy-looking fruits.

For proper development kiwi vitally needs warmth and sunlight. Therefore, the pot is placed in the brightest place in the apartment, for example, on the southern or southwestern windowsill, periodically (every 2–2.5 weeks) turning it so that the heat is distributed evenly. Cold drafts are strictly contraindicated. Equally important are regular top dressing (preferably organic) and proper watering.

In nature, kiwi is a liana, so you need to take care of the support for it in advance

For some reason, actinidia juice has an effect on cats (and, to a lesser extent, cats) similar to that of valerian tincture. Therefore, it is worth removing the pot to where the cats definitely won’t get to it, or surround the plant with a net.

Cats do not eat kiwi leaves and shoots, but they can severely damage the plant, trying to get to the juice, to which for some reason they are very partial.

Embarkation and transfer procedure

Growing kiwi begins with obtaining seeds. The fruits must be ripe and without the slightest trace of rot, mold, pest damage. harvested seeds sown immediately after harvest, the most right time That's what spring is for.

Getting seeds

The kiwi variety does not matter for this. The main thing is that the fetus is mature and healthy in appearance. Ripe berries can be identified by their characteristic subtle aroma. Each kiwi contains over a thousand seeds.

Seeds are prepared for planting as follows:

Kiwis are thoroughly washed, cut into 4-6 pieces. The skin is peeled off, the pulp is gently kneaded with a fork, turning into a puree.
The resulting slurry is laid out in a deep plate or bowl, poured with water room temperature. Stirring constantly, separate the seeds with your fingers. To completely get rid of the pulp, the water will have to be changed 4-5 times. At the end of the procedure, only seeds should remain in the container. You can wrap the gruel in several layers of gauze or place it in a sieve with small cells and rinse under running cool water.
It is very important to completely separate the kiwi seeds from the pulp - its remains can provoke the development of rot.
Seeds are laid out on a paper towel or cotton towel to dry. After a few hours, they finally dry out, changing color from black to grayish brown.
A small piece of cotton wool or gauze is moistened by wetting hot water. Instead, you can use a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate (for disinfection) or any biostimulant available (to increase germination). Suitable, for example, potassium humate, Kornevin, Zircon, Heteroauxin, succinic acid, aloe juice.
Pre-germinated kiwi seeds germinate faster
Seeds are wrapped in wet gauze, put on a saucer, which is covered polyethylene film. Every day at night it is removed. In the morning, the gauze is moistened again and the “shelter” is restored. After about 7-10 days, the seeds will germinate and can be planted. Another option for preplant preparation is stratification. Seeds are placed in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks. Then they are kept for 10–12 days in the warmest place in the apartment.
For convenience, you can use special bags with a clasp - it's easier to remove the "shelter" from the gauze, without the risk of scattering the seeds

Preparing for landing

The root system of kiwi is quite developed, strongly growing in width, but superficial, fibrous. Therefore, there is no point in acquiring a deep pot, shaped like a bucket. The best option- a container similar to a bowl or salad bowl. A prerequisite is the presence of drainage holes. From materials it is worth giving preference to natural ceramics - it passes air better, preventing moisture from stagnation.

A bucket-shaped pot can greatly inhibit the growth of the vine, so the best option is a wide and shallow pot so that the roots have room to turn around.

Kiwi soil prefers light and loose, but nutritious. Well suited for him is a mixture of peat chips, large river sand and chernozem in a ratio of 1:2:3. You can add 8-10 g of sifted wood ash and powdered eggshell for each liter of finished substrate. Another version of the soil is vermiculite or perlite, peat and humus in approximately equal proportions. If you don’t want to prepare the soil mixture yourself, you can look in specialized stores for a substrate designed for any tropical vines.

Peat - a necessary component of the soil for kiwi

Planting seeds in the ground

There is nothing complicated in the procedure itself. But there are some nuances that you need to familiarize yourself with in advance.

Expanded clay or other drainage material is poured onto the bottom of a clean pot, creating a layer at least 3–4 cm thick. A disinfected substrate is placed on top, filling approximately 2/3 of the container. To sterilize, it can be treated with steam, heat or cold.
The soil is well moistened by spraying from a spray bottle, and leveled. When the water is absorbed, the seeds are sown as evenly as possible. Some flower growers recommend leaving them on the surface, others advise covering them with a thin (1–1.5 mm) layer of fine sand.
Plantings are once again moderately moistened, the pot is covered with glass or covered with plastic wrap to create the effect of a greenhouse. To place the container, choose the warmest place in the apartment (temperature not lower than 25–27ºС). Also desirable daylight hours lasting at least 12-14 hours and lower heating. To avoid the appearance of condensate, the "greenhouse" is opened daily for 3-5 minutes for ventilation. As it dries, the soil is sprayed with a spray bottle. It should be constantly slightly damp, but not wet.
Seedlings appear massively and fairly quickly. 2-3 weeks after this, the plantings are thinned out, getting rid of the weakest seedlings.
When kiwi seedlings reach a height of 10–12 cm (after 4–6 weeks), they are seated in individual containers. Such plants already have 2-3 pairs of true leaves. Suitable soil- a mixture of peat, sod land and sand in approximately equal proportions. In the process of picking, you should try to injure the roots of the plant as little as possible. They are very delicate and fragile in seedlings. At the same time, you need to take care of the support. If you stick it into the pot later, again, there is a risk of damaging the roots.

Kiwi seeds have good germination, but then many sprouts may die, it depends on the conditions of their maintenance.

Since the kiwi liana differs in growth rate, and the purchase of pots "for growth" is not recommended for any indoor plants, young specimens will have to be transplanted quite often, every 5–6 months. For the first few weeks after the procedure, it is recommended to rearrange the plant from the windowsill, removing it to where direct sunlight will definitely not fall on it. For adult kiwi, the heat is quite comfortable, but young vines can greatly slow down in growth.

Kiwi transplantation is carried out as needed. As a rule, once every two years is enough. The diameter of the pot is increased by 3–5 cm. It is carried out by transshipment, trying to destroy the earthen clod as little as possible and injure the roots. They are very fragile in the plant.

Kiwi grown at home (especially young specimens) need frequent transplantation - the vine grows quite quickly

Video: collecting kiwi seeds and planting them

How to graft a kiwi cutting

Most often, kiwi plants grown from seeds at home are used not to get a crop, but as a rootstock for "cultivated" varieties. Only seedlings aged three years and older are suitable for this. You can graft kiwi in any way. The results are good in every case.

Cleavage grafting

A lignified kiwi stalk is part of an annual shoot cut from an adult vine of a certain variety in winter. For a plant, such pruning is a mandatory procedure. Green cuttings are obtained by cutting off the tops of the shoots formed this season in the summer.

It is very important to securely fix the entire structure during the grafting process.

The optimal length of the cutting is 8–12 cm (2–3 pairs of leaves), the thickness of the shoot from which it is taken is 7–10 mm. It should be absolutely healthy, the bark should be smooth, uniform, elastic and undamaged. Best time days for cutting the cuttings in the summer - early morning.

For getting planting material use a sharply sharpened disinfected tool - scissors, knife, secateurs. The latter option is most preferable, since it minimally injures the tissues of the shoot, the bark does not crack or wrinkle. The lower cut is made at an angle of approximately 45º, the upper (straight) is located 8-10 mm above the last kidney.

The easiest way is split grafting. In this case, the cuttings are harvested in the fall and dug into the snow for the winter. The procedure is carried out in the middle of spring.

The bases of the cut cuttings are placed for about a day in a container filled with water at room temperature. Their tops are covered with a damp cloth or plastic wrap. A day later, the cuttings are transferred from the water into a solution of any root formation stimulator prepared according to the instructions. After 18-20 hours they are ready for grafting.
Parts of the shoots should be immersed in water about half
The rootstock seedling is shortened to a length of 3–5 cm, making an even horizontal cut. In the middle, perpendicularly, with a scalpel or a razor blade, a slit is cut with a depth of 2.5–3 cm (the so-called split).
It is necessary to ensure that the split is not too wide - the stalk must enter it with some effort
A cutting 12–15 cm long, whose thickness approximately coincides with the thickness of the rootstock shoot, is cut from below on both sides at an angle, forming something similar to a wedge 3–3.5 cm long. It should start as close as possible to the lower kidney.
The shape of the wedge is necessary for the most convenient entry of the scion into the stock
The graft is inserted into the split on the rootstock. Part of the cut on it should remain in the open air. The cut part of the cutting contributes to a more rapid fusion of the scion and rootstock.
It is very important to follow the procedure with clean hands, otherwise you can infect the cut
The junction of the shoots is wrapped with plastic tape in several layers. When callus appears, the winding is removed.
Insulating tape or cling film help protect the junction from negative impacts

Video: how to plant a cutting correctly

Another common method is budding. In fact, this is the same vaccine. The difference is that in this case, not a whole cutting is used, but only one growth bud, taken from it along with a thin layer of wood. The easiest option is budding in the butt. A bud cut from a scion plant is combined with a section cleared of bark on a rootstock vine. Some flower growers claim that in order for the parts to grow together, a cross-shaped incision 2–4 mm deep is generally sufficient.

The budding procedure is fundamentally no different from vaccination.

Video: butt budding process

Liana kiwi is distinguished by its growth rate, so pruning for it is a mandatory procedure. Such plants look much more aesthetic and neater, bear fruit more abundantly. If the growth of the vine is not limited in any way, it can stretch up to 7–10 m in length. Keeping such a plant in an apartment is completely impossible.

Seedlings that have grown to a height of 25–30 cm are pinched at the top, removing the last 2–3 buds. This stimulates the plant to branch more intensively. But an excess of green mass is also harmful to the plant - all its forces are spent on its nutrition, so the fruits do not set at all or fall off long before ripening.

An adult kiwi plant at home should consist of 5-7 shoots, starting at a distance of about 45-50 cm from the base of the stem. They constantly form dense growth, which will have to be shortened throughout the growing season. It is impractical to preserve it, since only the lower 5-6 "eyes" of each annual shoot bear fruit.

There is no point in leaving very long shoots on a kiwi vine: only the lower 5-6 buds bear fruit

Old branches are gradually removed, replacing them with replacement shoots. Usually anti-aging pruning is needed for kiwi every 5-6 years. If carried out correctly, the productive life of the vine stretches for 40-50 years.

Pruning is especially important when there are several plants located next to each other. If it is not carried out, one of them can simply “strangle” the neighbors. Also, removing excess foliage and weak shoots improves crown air exchange, minimizing the risk of disease spread and pest attacks.

A different method of formation is more often used when growing vines outdoors, but at home such plants look pretty.

An annual seedling is shortened to a height of 30 cm.
A year later, all formed side shoots are cut to the growth point, except for two (the so-called shoulders).
When they reach a length of 1 m, pinch their tops. From all the shoots formed on the “shoulders”, 3–4 lateral branches are left, located at an approximately equal distance from each other. They are shortened by cutting off after the fifth or sixth kidney.
During the active growing season, all shoots on these branches and new side shoots on the "shoulders" are immediately removed.
After harvesting, fruiting shoots are pinched so that 6–7 new leaves remain above the last berry. Branches on which there were no fruits are shortened to the fifth leaf bud.
Branches at the age of three years are cut to the point of growth. Soon a new shoot will begin to form from it, which is pinched after five leaves have formed on it.

The secateurs, like any other tool used for pruning kiwi, must be sharply sharpened and disinfected.

A heavily neglected or old kiwi vine can be rejuvenated by radical pruning in the spring. Unlike most indoor plants, kiwi responds normally to the loss of a significant part of the green mass, quickly recovering and starting to grow after such a “stress”.

Other important nuances of liana care

Those who are going to grow kiwi should first of all remember that this is a southern subtropical plant. This is what you need to focus on, creating an optimal microclimate for it. In inappropriate conditions, the vine, most likely, will simply refuse to bear fruit.

Creating the right microclimate

The most important requirement of the vine is sufficient lighting. The pot is placed on a windowsill facing south or southwest. In winter, there will not be enough natural light, so you will have to use fluorescent or special phytolamps, extending daylight hours to 12–14 hours. It is better to arrange them so that the light falls on the plant in a horizontal plane.

Kiwi vitally needs a lot of light, with this in mind, they select a place for a pot

At the same time, kiwi in the hottest hours should be protected from direct sunlight. They cause serious burns, especially if the vine was watered shortly before. You can shade kiwi with tulle, paper screen, several layers of gauze.

With a lack of light, the stems of the creeper become ugly thinner, the leaves turn pale and smaller, the gaps between them increase. Flowering and, moreover, fruiting in such conditions can not be expected.

Kiwi will most likely react negatively to any changes in the conditions of detention. Especially the plant does not like sudden changes in temperature and cold drafts. Therefore, a place for him is chosen once and for all, approaching this procedure with all responsibility.

plant care

Kiwi care at home is easy. Basically, it comes down to regular watering and top dressing. This is quite enough for the vine to feel good and bear fruit.

From fertilizers, kiwi prefers natural organic matter. It is best to alternate it with mineral fertilizers. The liana spends quite a lot of energy on the growth and formation of fruits, so top dressing is applied every 12–15 days, from mid-March to October.

Biohumus - absolutely natural fertilizer

The very first top dressing is biohumus, humus or rotted compost (source of nitrogen). In a pot around the plant, an annular groove is made and fertilizers are applied there. During the season, along with water, nutrients will gradually flow to the roots. Then you can alternately use the complex mineral fertilizer and infusions of nettle leaves, dandelion, wood ash, bird droppings.

Kiwi needs frequent and abundant watering, but at the same time, stagnation of moisture in a pot does not tolerate categorically. To avoid this, 30–40 minutes after the procedure, it will be necessary to drain excess liquid from the pan. Watering is carried out at least once every 3-4 days. At the same time, the earthen lump is moistened as evenly as possible. It is best to use a watering can with a divider nozzle for this.

A watering can with a divider helps to evenly soak the earthen lump in a pot of kiwi

In extreme heat, in addition to watering, it is advisable to spray the liana from a fine spray gun. Water in both cases is used heated to room temperature. You can also use special humidifier air. Or just place bowls of cool water next to the kiwi, organize a “company” for the liana from other indoor plants, place wet expanded clay, sphagnum moss in the pot tray.

Moss-sphagnum retains moisture well, which is very useful for indoor plants in the heat.

For the winter, the vine drops its leaves, this is a natural process for it. As soon as this has happened, top dressing is stopped completely, and the number of waterings is reduced to once every 10-12 days. At the time of "hibernation" it is desirable to transfer the plant to a cool bright room where the temperature is maintained at the level of 12-16ºС.

Kiwi, like most fruit-bearing tropical plants (lemons, pomegranates, pineapples), at home sheds leaves for the winter

Diseases and pests that threaten kiwifruit

Like any actinidia, kiwi rarely suffers from diseases and pests. This also applies to specimens grown at home. But at the same time, do not neglect the regular inspection of the vine. The earlier a problem is noticed, the easier it is to deal with it.

Often in deterioration appearance and the state of kiwi is to blame for the florist himself. The mistakes he made in care provoke problems with the plant.

Table: how kiwi reacts to improper care

What does the plant look like	What is the reason
Leaves droop, lose their tone, partially or completely fall off.	Moisture deficiency. As a rule, the plant recovers after watering.
Brownish-beige spots on leaves and stems.	Burn. The plant has been damaged by direct sunlight. Stains are nothing more than dead tissue.
"Wet" black-brown spots at the base of the shoots.	Rot fungus. Its development is facilitated by cool room temperatures, especially in combination with excessively plentiful and / or frequent watering.
Shrinking and yellowing leaves, reddening petioles, a general deterioration in the tone of the plant.	Nitrogen deficiency. It is caused by the use of “poor” soil unsuitable for kiwi. Recommended root and foliar top dressing with a solution of carbamide (1.5–2 g/l).
Shrinking leaves of an unnatural dark green color that have lost their luster, a sharp decrease or lack of yield.	Phosphorus deficiency. The plant is fed with superphosphate.
The leaves acquire a brick shade, dry quickly and fall off.	Potassium deficiency. For feeding, you can use potassium sulfate. Potassium chloride is not recommended - kiwi, like all actinidia, does not like chlorine.
The leaves change color to lime, blurry brownish spots appear between the veins.	Magnesium deficiency. Liana is fed with magnesium sulfate, potassium magnesia.

Due to the lack of light, the kiwi vine stretches ugly - this applies to both adult plants and very young seedlings

In addition to the so-called non-communicable diseases, the symptoms of which most often disappear when the microclimate is normalized and correct dressings, kiwi can also suffer from fungal diseases. Most often, when waterlogged, various types of rot develop. Also, the plant does not ignore such "universal" pests of indoor plants as aphids and scale insects. They are distinguished by a rare "omnivorous".

Table: diseases and pests that can threaten kiwifruit when grown at home

Disease or pest	Symptoms	Control and prevention measures
Large brown spots on leaves with darker edging. Sometimes the border may have a greenish or purple tint. In severe cases, gray-brown concentric rings around them.	The disease most often develops with a deficiency in the soil of potassium and phosphorus and an excess of nitrogen. At the first sign, the affected parts of the leaves are cut off, two treatments with Bordeaux liquid (10 ml / l) are carried out with an interval of 12–15 days. In severe cases, fungicides Strobi, Horus, Topsin-M, Delan are used.
Dark brown vague spots on the leaves, longitudinal stripes of the same shade on the stems. Gradually they are tightened with a grayish-white "fluff" with small black dots. Leaves dry and fall off.	At an early stage of the disease, the soil is shed with a solution of Alirin-B or Ordan, the vine itself is sprayed with Fitosporin, Trichodermin, Quadris, Ridomil-Gold. Folk remedy - infusion of garlic. 4-5 treatments are carried out with an interval of 7-10 days, it is advisable to change the preparations. For prevention, you can tie the base of the shoot with copper wire or spray the plant monthly with an iodine solution (20 drops per liter of milk and a liter of water).
"Wet" black-brown spots at the base of the shoots, mold on the surface of the soil, an unpleasant putrefactive odor. The stems are easily pulled out of the ground.	If the disease has gone too far, it will not be possible to save the plant. On early stages development of rot, you can try to transplant kiwi, getting rid of all the stems and leaves, on which the slightest damage is visible. The substrate is completely changed, the pot is sterilized. Sifted wood ash or Trichodermin is added to the soil. Within a month, when watering, alternate ordinary water and a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin, Gamair, Baktofit.
Rapidly growing grayish spots (like dust) on fruits, leaves and shoots, covered with a fluffy coating of the same color. Eating infected kiwi is not recommended.	If the disease is noticed on time, kiwi fruit is sprayed daily with infusions of garlic, mustard powder until the symptoms disappear completely. The soil is sprinkled with wood ash, crushed chalk. In severe cases, fungicides are used - Teldor, Vectra, Skor, Tsineb (according to instructions).
"Water" spots on leaves and fruits, covered with a thick whitish coating, similar to cotton wool, rotting stems. The disease spreads from the bottom up.	The affected stems and leaves are cut off, the “wounds” are covered with a paste of water, crushed chalk and potassium permanganate, sprinkled with ash. If this does not help, the plants and soil are treated with Topaz, Maxim, HOM.
Brown-gray rounded "plaques" on leaves and shoots, rapidly increasing in volume. The tissues around them acquire a reddish-yellow hue, the soil in the pot turns black.	Visible scale insects are removed from the plant, lubricating their shells with kerosene, alcohol, vinegar, machine oil. The leaves are rubbed with foam of green potash or laundry soap. The plant is treated three times with an interval of 7-12 days with Actara, Fufanon, Phosbecid. For prevention, the vine is sprayed once a week with an infusion of hot pepper or onion.
Colonies small insects yellow-green or black-brown, sticking to the underside of the leaves, tops of the shoots, fruit ovaries. At the same time, they are covered with a transparent sticky coating. The affected parts of the plant are deformed, dry, fall off.	If there are few aphids, the plants are washed in the shower, 3-4 times a day they are sprayed with infusions of any herbs with a sharp aroma, garlic, onions, citrus peels, mustard powder, tobacco chips. In severe cases, general insecticides are used - Inta-Vir, Fury, Mospilan, Iskra-Bio. Usually 2-3 treatments with an interval of 5-7 days are sufficient.

Photo gallery: diseases and pests dangerous for kiwi

The development of phyllosticosis is most often provoked by improper feeding or lack of them Late blight is also known as "brown rot" If the development of root rot has gone too far, the plant can only be thrown out Gray rot affects not only leaves and stems, but also kiwi fruits White rot is very easy to identify, but getting rid of this disease is quite difficult. The strong shell reliably protects the scale insect, so most folk remedies Aphids are not dangerous for her - one of the most "universal" pests, both indoor and garden plants are attacked by her

Actinidia is not very common in vegetable gardens, orchards and household plots Russians. But her unique decorative qualities, unpretentiousness in care and resistance to various pests causes an increase in popularity in landscape design.

But in order for actinidia (called the northern sister of kiwi) to bear fruit well, it is important to cut it correctly. This is done in October, when it is already quite cool. First of all, let's figure out what groups of branches the vine consists of.

Vegetative shoots are a kind of plant skeleton. During the growing season, they can grow from 0.5 to 3 m. You can also recognize them by the sharp, unripened top, which does not have time to lignify and freezes in winter. These parts of the plant must be cut off.

Generative-vegetative shoots are formed from the growth of the previous year. They grow up to 0.6-0.8 m. They need to be cut, leaving 30 cm in length. But do not throw away these tops of the branches, they are great for cuttings.

Generative, or fruit, shoots are formed on the wood of the current year. They are small. After the end of fruiting, the shoots dry up, or thin branches form on them, on which small fruits will be formed next year. When pruning, you need to remove such branches if they thicken the crown of the plant.

It is necessary to carry out all actions only in the fall after the complete fall of all foliage. IN spring period this procedure is not recommended, because when pruning in this season, the shoots emit a large number of juice, which can lead to the death of the entire plant. At the end of summer, it is also not necessary to shorten the branches, since this is an unfavorable period, since any damage can cause activation of the buds on young branches.
First of all, dry, drying, thin, thickening crown and weak twigs are subject to removal. Tops of branches frozen during the previous wintering are subject to liquidation.
In the first year, the seedling is shortened to a length where only two or three buds remain. In the second year, 2-3 vertically growing shoots are selected, which form the basis of the fan branch. The rest are cut to the surface of the earth. After the leaves fall, the top is removed to the level of the ripened bark.
In the third year, side branches appear from the main branches. In the summer, only the most powerful and strongest of them are selected, after which they are tied to the horizontal elements of the trellis. They need to be straightened in different directions, which allows you to form a bush.
In the fourth year, short fruit-bearing shoots are tied vertically, and in the fifth year only the most powerful and strong ones are selected from the entire bush, tied up and straightened horizontally to the wire. Unfruitful branches are subject to shortening.

Actinidia can act as a beautiful hedge or be used to create other decorative landscape compositions. But to form a spectacular appearance of this plant, regular pruning is necessary, which should be carried out in accordance with the recommendations of gardeners.

For growing kiwi in the garden special efforts no, it's very simple. It is only necessary to properly root the cuttings of the plant and then form a bush. It is best to start forming from the trunk, when its height from the ground is 60-80 cm, after that you can proceed to the formation of skeletal branches, i.e. those branches that will continue to bear fruit steadily. Kiwi, like other actinidia, are distinguished by the rapid awakening of the kidneys, as well as good growth, for this reason, pruning of vines must be done all year round.

It is not necessary to spray kiwi, as this plant is not susceptible to diseases. Kiwi care is only watering and pruning. It should be noted that in the case of a transplant, if a lot of “male” plants are taken (normally it is 1 male and 5-6 female), there is nothing to worry about, since kiwis are easily grafted with “eyes”. If, when buying a sprout, you were sold a male plant, do not worry, you can graft buds from a female plant on it and everything will quickly grow. Kiwis tolerate even sub-zero temperatures well.

Kiwi in the garden

In order for kiwi to grow well in the garden, it is necessary to create a subtropical climate, namely: a long frost-free growing season, warmth, and high humidity. After the varietal grafted seedlings were planted in a permanent place of further residence, they begin to bear fruit after 3-4 years, fully begin to bear fruit in the 7th year and then bear fruit for 40 years. Kiwi varieties, which are considered breeding, are grafted onto seedlings in splits and shields.

Reproduction of kiwi is a simple matter, they are propagated vegetatively by stem or root cuttings, they are layered in early spring, i.e. lay a new shoot and sprinkle it with soil. In order for kiwi to grow well, it is necessary to give Special attention garden climate and soil. The main threat to kiwi shoots are late frosts, as well as winds. Kiwi branches on trellises can break from strong wind Therefore, it is necessary to use various wind-retaining devices for safety reasons. In the summer, when it is very hot, it is necessary to produce a small rain irrigation of plants. It is not good to grow kiwi actinidia in hard soils, where the soil does not pass moisture well, so it is recommended to make artificial drainage under the plants. Kiwi tolerates well and even loves loose soils, soils with stones and alluvial.

Kiwi should be planted in a permanent place in early spring, following the pattern of 5x6 meters. Creepers can grow powerfully and reach a height of up to 7-8 meters, they need to be tied up on trellises in the shape of the letter "T", this is considered the most convenient way, as in growing a tall vineyard. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (150-200 g each) must be applied to each planting hole when planting seedlings. Further, fertilizers should be applied three times during the summer, fertilization depends on the phase of growth and development of plant vines, fertilizer is taken per plant in the amount of: nitrogen - 500 g, phosphorus - 135 g, potassium - 240 g, magnesium - 75 g .

It is necessary to give fertilizer in parts, the first application of fertilizer in early March, before the start of the growing season, after - in May, when frosts have passed, and the last application in September, after the fruits have formed. It is recommended to sow crops such as beans between rows. Because of root system in vines, kiwi is located on top, the soil under the plants cannot be deeply loosened and herbicides cannot be applied either.

In the garden, in dry weather, kiwi vines need to be sprayed, carefully watered and mulched the soil, pruned kiwi for fruiting and to form a bush. It is necessary to cut the plant when it is already late autumn (after the end of fruiting) and in summer (to defuse the crown). When pruning is done, it must be borne in mind that actinidia bears fruit, as a rule, on the first five eyes. For this reason, kiwi shoots need to be cut after the last crop is harvested in late autumn for 4-5 eyes, while you need to remove the branches that have already fruited their own, you need to leave only young shoots that will serve as a replacement for the removed ones.

In summer, pruning of branches is done in order to defuse the crown, but in no case should you overdo it, as this will lead to a decrease in yield next year. When the formation is done, it is necessary to leave the most powerful and healthy kiwi shoots, and cut out all the rest. The balance between the upper part of the plant and the root system must not be disturbed. Kiwi pollinators are house bees and bumblebees, if pollination by bees is not done, this can lead to the formation of smaller berries, and with good pollination, the berries will be large in size.

E. Kolbasina's tips for growing kiwi in the garden:
"For the successful growth of kiwi in the garden, a subtropical climate is necessary: warmth, a long frost-free growing season, high air humidity. Grafted varietal kiwi seedlings, after planting in the garden in a permanent place, begin fruiting for 3-4 years, enter full fruiting for 7 years and bring yields up to the age of 40. Breeding kiwi varieties are grafted onto seedlings in a split and shield.In addition, kiwi is propagated vegetatively by stem or root cuttings, layering in early spring (by laying the shoot and digging it into the ground).
To create favorable conditions for the growth of kiwi in the garden, climate and soil are primarily taken into account. Kiwi shoots are threatened by late spring frosts and winds. To prevent kiwi vines on trellises from breaking from the wind, various wind-retaining devices are used. During the heat in the summer, sprinkling and irrigation of kiwi is carried out. Actinidia kiwi does not work well on dense soils that do not allow moisture to pass through, so artificial drainage is recommended when planting. Kiwi loves alluvial, loose, even with stones of the soil. Planting of kiwi seedlings in a permanent place is carried out in early spring according to the scheme of 5x6 meters. Due to the powerful growth of vines (they can reach a height of 7-8 meters) and their garters on trellises in the shape of the letter "T", it is considered the most convenient to grow them like a tall vineyard.
When planting seedlings, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (150-200 g each) are applied to each planting hole. In the future, fertilizers are applied during the summer in three periods, depending on the phase of growth and development of vines, in total per one plant in total: nitrogen - 500 g, phosphorus - 135 g, potassium - 240 g, magnesium - 75 g. They are given parts: in March, strictly before the start of the growing season, in May at the end of frost, in September after the formation of fruits. It is recommended to sow legumes between rows.
Due to the superficially located root system, it is impossible to deeply loosen the soil around the kiwi vines, as well as to apply herbicides. In dry weather, kiwi vines in the garden must be sprayed with water, watered and mulched.
Kiwi pruning is carried out for fruiting and for the formation of a bush: plants are cut in late autumn (at the end of fruiting) and in summer (to thin the crown). When pruning for fruiting, you need to keep in mind that actinidia bears fruit on the first five eyes. Therefore, kiwi shoots are pruned after harvesting the last crop in late autumn by 4-5 eyes, removing fruit-bearing branches; leave only young shoots for replacement. Summer kiwi pruning is carried out to improve the yield, thinning the crown so that the pruning is not excessive, otherwise the next year's fruit yield will decrease. When forming, the most healthy and powerful kiwi shoots are left, and all others are cut out. The balance between above-ground part plants and their root systems.
Insect pollinators of kiwi are domestic bees and bumblebees. Without pollination by bees, more small berries are formed, and with pollination, more large fruits are formed.

Kiwi varieties have long been bred, which grow well in temperate climates and withstand frosts up to 30 degrees. Therefore, more and more gardeners are planting kiwi fruit in their backyards. The best time to plant kiwi fruit is spring and summer.

Summer planting of actinidia involves mandatory shading and abundant watering throughout the growing season. But plants that have not reached the age of 3 years can plant in autumn before the onset of cold weather, usually September-October. It is important that before frost kiwi in open field took root, then the seedling will winter well.

Kiwis are planted in such a way that there are at least 1 male for every 10 female plants. Actinidia varieties are dioecious, that is, they do not need a pollinator, they grow normally and bear fruit in a single copy.

Kiwi is grown on soil with an acidic reaction. Clay dry soil is not suitable for actinidia, but ground water not desirable in close proximity to the root system. Perfect option- planting kiwi on a hill or on the slopes.

Kiwi is a vigorous plant, in a few years the vine grows up to 20 m. From each bush, with good care during the period of full fruiting, a crop of up to one hundred kilograms is obtained. Therefore, there is no way to do without support. It can be a wall, fence, metal, wooden support structures or a special trellis, gazebo, pergola. The main thing is that the support can withstand the weight of branches and fruits.

Kiwi planting

The depth of the pits or grooves for actinidia seedlings is the bayonet of a shovel. The width is 30 cm.
At the bottom of the pit, pour a layer of vermiculite, crushed stones, bricks or expanded clay, as the plant does not tolerate standing water.
Sprinkle the seedling with earth without tamping.
Water generously.
Mulch with sawdust.
Protect the plant with a trimmed 5 liter plastic bottle or mesh with agrofibre.
Drive 3 guide pegs around the perimeter of the pit. On them kiwi will trail.

The distance between seedlings is maintained in the range from 1.5 to 2.5 m. Until the plant takes root, it protect from direct sunlight. To ensure the proper development of the plant, it is planted in fertile soil with humus and wood ash, and mineral fertilizers are also added - superphosphate and ammonium nitrate. It is not allowed to use chlorine-containing fertilizers for feeding actinidia.

Kiwi care

The kiwi root system is superficial, so weeding and digging the earth around the kiwi seedling is highly undesirable. Mulching near-stem circle of actinidia is a must! Fertilizers are best applied in liquid form or scattered under a layer of mulch. Actinidia not drought tolerant plant. For the first few years, garden kiwis are regularly and plentifully watered.

Frost-resistant varieties of actinidia

Actinidia kolomikta is the most frost-resistant variety. It grows like a liana, twisting around a support, or as a stunted shrub.
Actinidia arguta is large in size. The length of its trunk reaches 25 m.
Actinidia polygama - the most valuable medicinal plant. In terms of vitamin C content, it is far superior to known plants.
Carpathian Straton Valentine - new variety frost-resistant kiwi, bred by Ukrainian breeder Heinrich Straton.

Bloom

In April - June (depending on the variety), actinidia is covered with creamy white or pink flowers with a wonderful aroma. Abundant flowering lasts 2-3 weeks. Actinidia is a dioecious plant. Female and male plants differ in the structure of inflorescences. Male inflorescences are characterized by the presence of yellow anthers (actinidia kolomikta and polygamum) and black (argut) color.

Pollination occurs with the help of wind, as well as insects - bumblebees or bees. Pollination of dioecious varieties is possible only if the male and female vines are of the same variety. After completion of flowering female flowers an ovary is formed. The fruits are harvested in August-September. They have an oblong shape, yellow-green or light Orange color and a pleasant pineapple scent. The skin of the fruit is smooth or pubescent.

Formation

Actinidia can and should be formed. Here are a few options for liana palmettes. Formation will take several years.

top dressing

Fertilizers are applied to the soil according to a certain scheme.

autumn:

humus - 2-3 kg / sq.m;
superphosphate - 40-50 g / sq.m;
potassium salt - 10-15 g / sq.m.

spring: ammonium nitrate - 20-30 g / sq.m

In hot weather, plants need to be watered regularly. The top layer is periodically loosened, mixed with sawdust and peat.

reproduction

Actinidia is propagated by cuttings, seeds and root layers. The fastest way is rooting cuttings. In early spring, before the start of sap flow, cuttings up to 30 cm long are cut out and placed in a nutrient substrate for several buds. Then watered and covered with polyethylene.

When 3 leaves appear, the plant is gradually accustomed to life without a greenhouse, and then taken out to the street or balcony. In August, a rooted and strengthened cutting can be planted in open ground.

Kiwi seeds are soaked in hot water for a day (in a thermos). Sowed to a depth of 1 cm. Top can be sprinkled with sand. They build a greenhouse from polyethylene or a jar and put it in a warm, bright place for germination. We stock up on patience - the seeds will sprout in 3 months. And the fruits will appear at best in 6 years.

Preparing for winter

In autumn, unviable shoots are removed, young shoots are covered with spruce branches or peat. Mature plants endure winter weather without shelter, tied to trellises. The root system is carefully insulated with peat or humus.

READ ALSO: Pomegranate care outdoors

It turns out that kiwi can not only be grown in a garden near Moscow, but also get your own harvest. Do you want to know how?

Now in any supermarket you can buy kiwi fruit grown on large tree-like vines. They are also sometimes called Chinese gooseberries, but the correct name for the plant is actinidia chinensis delicacy(Actinidia chinensis var. deliciosa). Upon careful study of the culture, it turned out that in an open ground in a place protected from the wind, it can tolerate up to -20 ° C, and under cover even up to -30 ° C. Therefore, if you “play” with winter shelters, then you can try to grow it in the Moscow region in the open field, and not at home.

Male and female kiwi plant

I planted the first kiwi seedlings in my garden near Moscow about 10 years ago, but I only waited for flowering in 2012, although in the southern regions they bloom in the 3-5th year. First, the male plant bloomed, and the next year, simultaneously with the male and female ones. Until the moment of flowering, it is difficult to determine the gender of the kiwi, but when they bloom, this difference is clearly visible: the pistil is much larger on the female flowers.

Varietal affiliation of female plants (variety hayward) I installed only when the plants bloomed and fruits began to ripen. Not knowing how the local bees and bumblebees would receive the overseas guest, he was a little safe: he pollinated all the flowers on the female vines with a male flower by hand.

The result was not long in coming, and now furry aliens from distant subtropics are ripening in my garden. However, I think that the insects would have coped without my help. For the viability of pollen and the activity of pollinating insects, it is optimal that during the flowering period, which in our area falls on the end of May - beginning of June, the air temperature was +15 ... +20 ° С.

Kiwi: planting and care

Kiwi is planted in places protected from the north and northeast winds. Best on the south side of the house. Preferred spring planting. Usually plant 5-6 female plants per male. Given that the kiwi has a superficial root system, the planting hole is made shallow: 0.5x0.5x0.5 m. Kiwis love well-drained humus-rich soils. The best ratio is considered to be 1-2 parts of rotted manure or compost to 1 part of garden soil. It is desirable that the root neck be 3 cm above the ground level, since deep planting can lead to the death of the plant.

Kiwis love abundant watering, but without stagnant water. If the summer is dry, then once a week 20-30 liters will suffice mature plant. In rainy summers, you can water much less often. In the year of planting, you can not feed, but in next years- starting from May, about once a month, apply 20–25 g of nitrogen, 10 g of phosphorus, 10–20 g of nitrogen per plant potash fertilizers, finishing all top dressing not later than July. Do not apply fertilizers containing chlorine. Plants are sensitive to elevated content lime.

Given that this is a powerful fast-growing vine, for good development it is immediately necessary to install racks (pillars), between which to stretch a support: wire or rope. Kiwi is propagated by rooting cuttings, grafting and seeds. However, when propagated by seed, the vast majority of seedlings (70-90%) will be male plants, so it is better to purchase seedlings from collectors.

Diseases and pests in our conditions on kiwi are practically not found.

Shaping and pruning kiwi

I consider the most successful form of growing kiwi fruit as a single-tiered and two-tiered palmette.

With a single-tiered palmette, at a height of about 0.5–1 m, two sleeves are formed along a wire (rope) stretched between the pillars. And with a two-tiered one, at a height of 1.5–2 m, there are two more sleeves. After planting a seedling from young shoots, the strongest is left and tied to a peg, and the rest of the shoots are cut out. If the plant is planted in early spring, then wait until the leaves bloom on it before pruning. When the shoot reaches the height of the first tier, it is cut off, thus stimulating the growth of lateral shoots, and two sleeves are formed from them. In the spring, only dry branches are removed - at this time there is an active sap flow, and if you cut off living tissue, the cut will “cry” for a long time. In summer or autumn, weak, fruit-bearing, thickening shoots are removed, leaving mostly horizontally growing ones at a distance of 30–40 cm from each other.

wintering kiwi

I have kiwis planted at a distance of 1 m from the southern wall of the house. In the early years in November, I untied the ropes from the racks for which the vines were attached, and lowered the whips as low as possible to the ground, trying not to touch it. To a height of about 10 cm, the trunk circle was mulched. He placed two wooden shields in the form of a hut (0.5 m high) over the vines so that the vine would not be broken by snow falling from the roof, and covered the shields with 2–3 layers of polyethylene from above. Partially the hut was covered with snow falling from the roof. In early spring, when night frosts stop falling below -15 ° C, the shelter was slightly opened so that on sunny days there would be no greenhouse effect and the vine would not wake up ahead of time. For a vegetative vine, even a small minus is critical. A few years ago, during a frost of -5 ° C (May 8), the vines that started growing froze to the ground. Fortunately, they did not die, and by August they had fully recovered. Mature plants are difficult to bend to the ground. I had to slightly change the design of the winter shelter. In autumn, on the racks to which the vines are attached, I lay cellular polycarbonate, fasten it at one end to the wall of the house and make a small canopy. I untie the creepers from the racks and tilt them to the wall of the house. WITH outer side I close them with 2-3 layers of polyethylene, which I attach to the racks. In such a winter shelter without additional heating, creepers hibernate almost without damage. Only unripened shoots freeze over. In May, when the threat of frost has passed, I remove the polyethylene and polycarbonate.

Kiwi harvest

All varieties of kiwi ripen no earlier than December, but can ripen harvested. Therefore, they are torn off before the first frosts and I ripen at home. To speed up ripening, you can put kiwi in one plastic bag with apples (1 apple per 10 kiwi).

Popular varieties of female plants

hayward- the most common variety in the world. Late ripe. Vigorous. The yield is high. The flowers are white at first, and after 2–3 days they are cream, up to 6.5 cm in diameter, solitary, rarely in inflorescences of 2–3 flowers. Flowering lasts 10-14 days. The fruits are large, flattened, oval in cross section. Fruit length up to 6.5 cm, weight up to 100 g. Straw-greenish pulp.
Bruno- early maturing. Vigorous. The flowers are white-cream, 5.5 cm in diameter, they are both single and collected in inflorescences of 2-3 pcs. Flowering lasts 10-12 days. The fruits are cylindrical in longitudinal section, rounded in cross section. Length up to 8 cm, circumference - 12 cm, weight 50-70 g. The flesh is green.
Monty- mid-season. Vigorous. The flowers are white-cream, up to 5 cm in diameter, solitary or in inflorescences of 2-3 pcs. Flowering lasts up to 12-14 days. The fruits are medium to large, slightly pear-shaped in longitudinal section and oval in cross section. Their length is 6.4 cm, circumference 13.8 cm, weight is about 30 g. The flesh is greenish-yellow. The taste, unlike the listed varieties, is mediocre.
Abbot- mid-season. Medium height. The flowers are white-cream, up to 6.5 cm in diameter, both single and collected in inflorescences of 2-3 pcs. Flowering lasts 10-12 days. The fruits are evenly colored, elongated in the longitudinal and rounded in the transverse directions. Fruit length 6.6 cm, weight 65 g. The flesh is green.
Jenny- medium early. Medium height. Self-pollinated. Fruits weighing up to 60–80 g. Similar to hayward, but has smaller fruits.

Popular varieties of male plants

matua- Abundant and long flowering variety. Vigorous. Flowers - from single to collected in inflorescences of 3-5 pieces. The villi on the pedicel are single, short.
Tomuri- blooms a little later than the variety matua. Vigorous. Flowering is long, but less abundant. The flowers are large, from single to collected in inflorescences of 2-7 pcs. The villi on the pedicel are thin and long.

Learn how to grow figs outdoors in the middle lane.

Since 1989, a hybrid actinidia of Kyiv selection has been growing in my garden. I did not immediately master the formation and annual pruning of this vine. In the first years, it grew freely and formed itself - the unripe part of the shoots was “cut off” by frost.

Such connivance on my part led to the fact that the bushes became very dense and intertwined. The shoots of the hybrid actinidia grow 3-4 m long over the summer. And over time, it settled over a large area, climbing all the supports it reached - fences, trees, roofs. Moreover, the trees that were subjected to such an attack were deprived of sunlight and, over time, branch after branch dried up. It became clear that the bushes need to be properly shaped and cut annually.

This experience did not come immediately. Over time, two methods of formation have been developed.

Actinidia on a trellis

At first, I learned how to properly form actinidia on a trellis 2 m high with three horizontal wires. Lower - not less than 50 cm. Vertical wires are located after 15 - 20 cm. The width of the trellis immediately had to be provided free place- 1 m on both sides. If this is not done, the plants that have fallen into her neighbors will gradually find themselves under the crown and die out. And if the track gets into this zone - it’s a disaster!

Garden architecture sometimes can not be redone. The cap of the shoots will interfere with walking along the path, or the vines will have to be cut shorter, which reduces the possibilities of the crop in the crop. In order to make optimal use of the trellis space, it is better to plant bushes at intervals of 2 - 2.5 m. If planting is done with vegetative seedlings, then only female plants should be planted in the trellis. And male (one for 5 - 6 female vines) - placed separately. This is explained by the fact that it, not burdened with fruits, spends all its strength on growth and develops more intensively. And in the common sleeper, the male copy suppresses the female ones, and besides, it is rather difficult to find it there, especially when the bush has already grown. That is why it is easier to plant separately. The distance can be up to 8-10 m. With pollination, I did not observe any problems with this arrangement. In general, the formation of actinidia is similar to the formation of uncovered grapes.

The first year after planting actinidia: care

Actinidia is usually planted in autumn, as it has early spring sap flow. A planted bush may have a short lash with several buds. next spring they will wake up and grow. Of these, no more than three should be left, the rest should be broken out when they grow slightly - by 3 - 5 cm. It is necessary to break it out, since it is impossible to cut the vine in early spring, it will “cry” for a long time.

When intensive growth starts, the shoots need to be tied up in the form of a free fan. During the summer I do a garter 2-3 times. This temporary summer procedure is needed so that the vines, feeling the support, grow more powerful. The real tie is carried out in the fall: from the three vines, the two lower ones are selected, which are tied horizontally to the lower wire of the trellis. The top one is vertical. Now it remains only to cut correctly. I cut the lower shoots, leaving 1 - 1.2 m. This is just half the distance to the next bush, which, after pruning, will take its half. vertical liana I cut it off, leaving no more than 70 cm. This completes the formation of actinidia in the first year!

ON A NOTE

Horizontally tied vines are nothing more than sleeves that will give the first crop in 2-3 years. A vertically tied vine next year will be used to form fruit sleeves on the second wire.

Care in the second year

In the second year, shoots from horizontal vines (sleeves) must be tied to the vertical wires of the trellis. If there are a lot of shoots, then you need to leave the strongest ones at a distance of 15-25 cm. The extra ones are broken out when the shoots reach 4-5 cm. Again, I leave three growing shoots on the vertical vine. With them I repeat the procedure of the first year, only in the fall I use the second wire of the trellis (the second fruit sleeve) for the garter.

And I shorten all annual growths on the sleeves on the lower wire to 20-25 cm in autumn.

Actinidia care: third year

In the third year, everything repeats, only now I do not leave a growth shoot - a vertical vine on the central shoot. In the spring, instead of three buds, I leave two. And in the fall, I tie the shoots from them horizontally to the topmost wire (the third fruit sleeve). On each short shoot of the lower sleeve, by autumn we grow two strong ones and cut them to 40 - 50 cm. There is no need to tie them up. These fruit links will now occupy the width of the trellis. The first harvest can be expected next year on these vines! So, by the autumn of the third year, all trellis wires should have fruit sleeves.

In order to optimally use the space of the trellis, it is better to plant actinidia bushes with an interval of 2-2.5 we.

Further care for actinidia

In subsequent years, pruning is simplified. When pruning, pay attention only to annual vines. Every autumn we shorten them for fruiting up to 40 - 50 cm. After a year or two, the trellis will begin to thicken, grow in width. And now we will also have to remove the thickening fruit links, not only their one-year growth, but also part of the old wood. This shaping method is designed to obtain the maximum big harvest and will justify itself if such a trellis is spacious and light in the garden.

Growing actinidia in the form of a tree

If there is not enough space, which often happens in our gardens, then it is best to form actinidia in the form of a tree. The method is well suited for vegetative seedlings (female and male). We plant each seedling separately and form it on its support in the form of a column. I recommend choosing a support height of no more than 2 m. Otherwise, there will be problems with harvesting. Shooting ripe berries while standing on the stairs is not a very pleasant experience!

The first year of caring for actinidia

In the first year, we leave 2-3 vines on the seedling for summer growth.

We tie everything to the support as we grow.

In the middle of summer, when the vines reach a height of 1 - 1.5 m, we pinch (cut off the tops). By autumn, 2-3 more shoots will grow on each vine (we remove the extra ones as early as possible). We also try to tie them vertically to the support. In autumn, we cut off all the vines at the level of the upper edge of the support. Thus, a trunk (double or triple) and skeletal branches ("trees") will be formed.

See also: Reproduction of actinidia by shifts or cuttings?

Second and third years - caring for kiwi

In the second year, each shoot will also give 2 - 3 vines (we do not allow extra ones). But since the support is over, these shoots will hang down to the sides. In the middle of summer, we also pinch them, leaving no more than 20 - 30 cm. In autumn, we shorten the entire annual growth to 40-50 cm. The bush becomes like a dandelion. This pruning prepares the vines for fruiting. And it can begin as early as the third year, but more often a year or two later. To bring fruiting as close as possible, you need not be late and tie up the shoots on time. When they feel supported, they grow stronger. With summer pruning, it is also better not to linger. If you ignore it, then by the spring of the third year only vines of the first - and second order will grow. If summer pruning perform on time, then by the third year the ends of the vines will be shoots of the fourth order. Such shoots are more likely to start bearing fruit. You can do not one summer pruning, but two. Then the vines of the sixth order will have even more chances to start fruiting. This technique is called artificial aging of the plant, it allows you to bring fruiting closer. This approach can be applied not only to actinidia, but also to other crops (apple, pear, apricot, etc.).

Further care for kiwi

Now, every autumn, the entire annual growth must be shortened to 40 - 50 cm. In case of thickening, we thin out (remove part of the fruit links).

In this form, the bush can exist for many years. When performing annual pruning, there will be no problems with actinidia, and the crop will begin to grow. It's easy to assemble: go under a tree, reach out your hand - and tear! It will also be convenient to collect from a tapestry with a height of no more than 2 m!

If you find in the garden appropriate place for actinidia and cut it correctly, then it will come to court and will delight for many years with weighty and tasty harvests.

Kiwi: male or female plant?

In the case of actinidia, planting male and female plants together is not worth it, especially F if you are counting on getting good harvest. It is necessary to plant vegetative seedlings in childhood. But with seedlings, not everything is so simple: their gender is not known in advance. Of the seedlings, about half will grow female, and half male.

You can determine the sex only at the first flowering: if you find a pronounced pistil, then you have a female copy in front of you. Male plants have flowers without pistils at all, but with an abundance of stamens. Therefore, all seedlings will have to be planted in a trellis, wait for flowering and remove excess male plants, leaving only one. It will not be possible to transplant 4-5-year-old bushes. Later, new female seedlings can be planted in place of the removed ones.

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Kiwi at home

In nature, the kiwi liana reaches 7–10 m in length.

In principle, there is nothing difficult in creating a microclimate for kiwi that is close to optimal. But the plant belongs to the category of dioecious. This means that for fruiting, you must have at least two copies - male and female. They can only be distinguished during flowering. The first, acting as pollinators, lack a pistil, but there are many stamens. One male plant is enough to pollinate five or six females. The only self-pollinating kiwifruit variety in existence is Jenny. But in this variety, the presence of a number of male plants has a positive effect on productivity.

The presence of a male plant is useful even if the variety is self-pollinating

Video: how to determine the sex of a kiwi plant

Fruits at home, as a rule, ripen less than the description of a particular kiwi variety promises. But in terms of the content of vitamins, macro- and microelements, and taste, they are in no way inferior to those grown outdoors. Ripe fruits are easily separated from the vine. They are stored in the refrigerator, the approximate “shelf life” is one and a half to two weeks.

"Homemade" kiwis are small, but very tasty

There are no problems with obtaining kiwi seeds at home. They can be taken from any berry bought in the store. But seedlings grown in this way rarely inherit the varietal characteristics of the "parent", and the taste of the fruit leaves much to be desired. Therefore, they are most often used as a stock, and any seedling of a certain variety purchased in a specialized nursery acts as a scion.

Viable seeds can be obtained from the kiwi fruit, which can be bought at any grocery store.

The harvest from kiwi grown from seeds will have to wait a long time. As a rule, such plants bloom for the first time no earlier than six years after planting.

Planting material is desirable to obtain from mature and healthy-looking fruits.

For proper development of kiwi, heat and sunlight are vital. Therefore, the pot is placed in the brightest place in the apartment, for example, on the southern or southwestern windowsill, periodically (every 2–2.5 weeks) turning it so that the heat is distributed evenly. Cold drafts are strictly contraindicated. Equally important are regular top dressing (preferably organic) and proper watering.

In nature, kiwi is a liana, so you need to take care of the support for it in advance

For some reason, actinidia juice has an effect on cats (and, to a lesser extent, cats) similar to that of valerian tincture. Therefore, it is worth removing the pot to where the cats definitely won’t get to it, or surround the plant with a net.

Cats do not eat kiwi leaves and shoots, but they can severely damage the plant, trying to get to the juice, to which for some reason they are very partial.

Embarkation and transfer procedure

Growing kiwi begins with obtaining seeds. The fruits must be ripe and without the slightest trace of rot, mold, pest damage. The collected seeds are sown immediately after harvest, the best time for this is spring.

Getting seeds

Seeds are prepared for planting as follows:

Kiwis are thoroughly washed, cut into 4-6 pieces. The skin is peeled off, the pulp is gently kneaded with a fork, turning into a puree.
The resulting slurry is laid out in a deep plate or bowl, poured with water at room temperature. Stirring constantly, separate the seeds with your fingers. To completely get rid of the pulp, the water will have to be changed 4-5 times. At the end of the procedure, only seeds should remain in the container. You can wrap the gruel in several layers of gauze or place it in a sieve with small cells and rinse under running cool water.
It is very important to completely separate the kiwi seeds from the pulp - its remains can provoke the development of rot.
Seeds are laid out on a paper towel or cotton towel to dry. After a few hours, they finally dry out, changing color from black to grayish brown.
A small piece of cotton wool or gauze is moistened by moistening with hot water. Instead, you can use a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate (for disinfection) or any biostimulant available (to increase germination). Suitable, for example, potassium humate, Kornevin, Zircon, Heteroauxin, succinic acid, aloe juice.
Pre-germinated kiwi seeds germinate faster
Seeds are wrapped in wet gauze, put on a saucer, which is covered with plastic wrap. Every day at night it is removed. In the morning, the gauze is moistened again and the “shelter” is restored. After about 7-10 days, the seeds will germinate and can be planted. Another option for preplant preparation is stratification. Seeds are placed in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks. Then they are kept for 10–12 days in the warmest place in the apartment.
For convenience, you can use special bags with a clasp - it's easier to remove the "shelter" from the gauze, without the risk of scattering the seeds

Preparing for landing

The root system of kiwi is quite developed, strongly growing in width, but superficial, fibrous. Therefore, there is no point in acquiring a deep pot, shaped like a bucket. The best option is a container similar to a bowl or salad bowl. A prerequisite is the presence of drainage holes. From materials it is worth giving preference to natural ceramics - it passes air better, preventing moisture from stagnation.

A bucket-shaped pot can greatly inhibit the growth of the vine, so the best option is a wide and shallow pot so that the roots have room to turn around.

Kiwi soil prefers light and loose, but nutritious. A mixture of peat chips, coarse river sand and black soil in a ratio of 1: 2: 3 is well suited for it. You can add 8–10 g of sifted wood ash and powdered eggshells for each liter of finished substrate. Another version of the soil is vermiculite or perlite, peat and humus in approximately equal proportions. If you don’t want to prepare the soil mixture yourself, you can look in specialized stores for a substrate designed for any tropical vines.

Peat - a necessary component of the soil for kiwi

Planting seeds in the ground

There is nothing complicated in the procedure itself. But there are some nuances that you need to familiarize yourself with in advance.

Expanded clay or other drainage material is poured onto the bottom of a clean pot, creating a layer at least 3–4 cm thick. A disinfected substrate is placed on top, filling approximately 2/3 of the container. To sterilize, it can be treated with steam, heat or cold.
The soil is well moistened by spraying from a spray bottle, and leveled. When the water is absorbed, the seeds are sown as evenly as possible. Some flower growers recommend leaving them on the surface, others advise covering them with a thin (1–1.5 mm) layer of fine sand.
Plantings are once again moderately moistened, the pot is covered with glass or covered with plastic wrap to create the effect of a greenhouse. To place the container, choose the warmest place in the apartment (temperature not lower than 25–27ºС). Also desirable daylight hours lasting at least 12-14 hours and lower heating. To avoid the appearance of condensate, the "greenhouse" is opened daily for 3-5 minutes for ventilation. As it dries, the soil is sprayed with a spray bottle. It should be constantly slightly damp, but not wet.
Seedlings appear massively and fairly quickly. 2-3 weeks after this, the plantings are thinned out, getting rid of the weakest seedlings.
When kiwi seedlings reach a height of 10–12 cm (after 4–6 weeks), they are seated in individual containers. Such plants already have 2-3 pairs of true leaves. Suitable soil is a mixture of peat, soddy soil and sand in approximately equal proportions. In the process of picking, you should try to injure the roots of the plant as little as possible. They are very delicate and fragile in seedlings. At the same time, you need to take care of the support. If you stick it into the pot later, again, there is a risk of damaging the roots.

Kiwi seeds have good germination, but then many sprouts may die, it depends on the conditions of their maintenance.

Since the kiwi liana differs in growth rate, and the purchase of "growth" pots is not recommended for any indoor plants, young specimens will have to be transplanted quite often, every 5-6 months. For the first few weeks after the procedure, it is recommended to rearrange the plant from the windowsill, removing it to where direct sunlight will definitely not fall on it. For adult kiwi, the heat is quite comfortable, but young vines can greatly slow down in growth.

Kiwi grown at home (especially young specimens) need frequent transplantation - the vine grows quite quickly

Video: collecting kiwi seeds and planting them

How to graft a kiwi cutting

Cleavage grafting

It is very important to securely fix the entire structure during the grafting process.

The optimal length of the cutting is 8–12 cm (2–3 pairs of leaves), the thickness of the shoot from which it is taken is 7–10 mm. It should be absolutely healthy, the bark should be smooth, uniform, elastic and undamaged. The best time of day for cutting cuttings in summer is early morning.

To obtain planting material, a sharply sharpened disinfected tool is used - scissors, a knife, a pruner. The latter option is most preferable, since it minimally injures the tissues of the shoot, the bark does not crack or wrinkle. The lower cut is made at an angle of approximately 45º, the upper (straight) is located 8-10 mm above the last kidney.

The easiest way is split grafting. In this case, the cuttings are harvested in the fall and dug into the snow for the winter. The procedure is carried out in the middle of spring.

The bases of the cut cuttings are placed for about a day in a container filled with water at room temperature. Their tops are covered with a damp cloth or plastic wrap. A day later, the cuttings are transferred from the water into a solution of any root formation stimulator prepared according to the instructions. After 18-20 hours they are ready for grafting.
Parts of the shoots should be immersed in water about half
The rootstock seedling is shortened to a length of 3–5 cm, making an even horizontal cut. In the middle, perpendicularly, with a scalpel or a razor blade, a slit is cut with a depth of 2.5–3 cm (the so-called split).
It is necessary to ensure that the split is not too wide - the stalk must enter it with some effort
A cutting 12–15 cm long, whose thickness approximately coincides with the thickness of the rootstock shoot, is cut from below on both sides at an angle, forming something similar to a wedge 3–3.5 cm long. It should start as close as possible to the lower kidney.
The shape of the wedge is necessary for the most convenient entry of the scion into the stock
The graft is inserted into the split on the rootstock. Part of the cut on it should remain in the open air. The cut part of the cutting contributes to a more rapid fusion of the scion and rootstock.
It is very important to do the procedure with clean hands, otherwise you can infect the cut.
The junction of the shoots is wrapped with plastic tape in several layers. When callus appears, the winding is removed.
Insulating tape or cling film will help protect the junction from the negative effects

Video: how to plant a cutting correctly

The budding procedure is fundamentally no different from vaccination.

Video: butt budding process

There is no point in leaving very long shoots on a kiwi vine: only the lower 5-6 buds bear fruit

Pruning is especially important when there are several plants located next to each other. If it is not carried out, one of them can simply “strangle” the neighbors. Also, removing excess foliage and weak shoots improves crown air exchange, minimizing the risk of disease spread and pest attacks.

A different method of formation is more often used when growing vines outdoors, but at home such plants look pretty.

An annual seedling is shortened to a height of 30 cm.
A year later, all formed side shoots are cut to the growth point, except for two (the so-called shoulders).
When they reach a length of 1 m, pinch their tops. From all the shoots formed on the “shoulders”, 3–4 lateral branches are left, located at an approximately equal distance from each other. They are shortened by cutting off after the fifth or sixth kidney.
During the active growing season, all shoots on these branches and new side shoots on the "shoulders" are immediately removed.
After harvesting, fruiting shoots are pinched so that 6–7 new leaves remain above the last berry. Branches on which there were no fruits are shortened to the fifth leaf bud.
Branches at the age of three years are cut to the point of growth. Soon a new shoot will begin to form from it, which is pinched after five leaves have formed on it.

The secateurs, like any other tool used for pruning kiwi, must be sharply sharpened and disinfected.

Other important nuances of liana care

Creating the right microclimate

Kiwi vitally needs a lot of light, with this in mind, they select a place for a pot

With a lack of light, the stems of the creeper become ugly thinner, the leaves turn pale and smaller, the gaps between them increase. Flowering and, moreover, fruiting in such conditions can not be expected.

plant care

Kiwi care at home is easy. Basically, it comes down to regular watering and top dressing. This is quite enough for the vine to feel good and bear fruit.

Biohumus - absolutely natural fertilizer

The very first top dressing is biohumus, humus or rotted compost (source of nitrogen). In a pot around the plant, an annular groove is made and fertilizers are applied there. During the season, along with water, nutrients will gradually flow to the roots. Then you can alternately use complex mineral fertilizer and infusions of nettle leaves, dandelion, wood ash, bird droppings.

A watering can with a divider helps to evenly soak the earthen lump in a pot of kiwi

In extreme heat, in addition to watering, it is advisable to spray the liana from a fine spray gun. Water in both cases is used heated to room temperature. You can also use a special humidifier. Or just place bowls of cool water next to the kiwi, organize a “company” for the liana from other indoor plants, place wet expanded clay, sphagnum moss in the pot tray.

Moss-sphagnum retains moisture well, which is very useful for indoor plants in the heat.

For the winter, the vine drops its leaves, this is a natural process for it. As soon as this has happened, top dressing is stopped completely, and the number of waterings is reduced to once every 10-12 days. At the time of "hibernation" it is desirable to transfer the plant to a cool, bright room, where the temperature is maintained at 12-16ºС.

Kiwi, like most fruit-bearing tropical plants (lemons, pomegranates, pineapples), at home sheds leaves for the winter

Diseases and pests that threaten kiwifruit

Often, the florist himself is to blame for the deterioration in the appearance and condition of the kiwi. The mistakes he made in care provoke problems with the plant.

Table: how kiwi reacts to improper care

Due to the lack of light, the kiwi vine stretches ugly - this applies to both adult plants and very young seedlings

In addition to the so-called non-infectious diseases, the symptoms of which most often disappear when the microclimate normalizes and proper feeding is carried out, kiwifruit can also suffer from fungal diseases. Most often, when waterlogged, various types of rot develop. Also, the plant does not ignore such "universal" pests of indoor plants as aphids and scale insects. They are distinguished by a rare "omnivorous".