Today, the beneficial properties of pears are not a secret to anyone. In addition, due to the mild taste and rich aroma, fruits can be enjoyed not only by adults, but also by children. However, in order to grow a healthy tree that will subsequently bear fruit regularly and produce tasty and large fruits, you need to know how to properly care for it.
In addition to the main agrotechnical measures - top dressing, weed removal, fruit overload control - the tree needs to ration the branches.
Pruning pear increases the yield and duration of fruiting of the tree.
This measure is necessary to obtain the desired effect:
- growth force adjustment;
- prolongation of fruiting;
- control of the beginning of fruiting;
- life cycle extension;
- providing air access to the stems;
- providing access to light to the crown;
- formation of the desired crown shape;
- fruit quality assurance.
If the correct and timely pruning scheme is applied, pear trees can fully bear fruit. over fifty years .
Features of summer pruning
It should be noted right away that if the procedure was carried out correctly in the spring, then in the summer, as a rule, pruning is carried out according to the pinching method.
Young shoots are simply pinched with fingers.
The essence of this technique is that by pinching young shoots from above, the growth force below slows down, thereby gaining all the strength of those stems on which the fruits ripen. However, this type can also be held in the spring, moreover, several times after the main big event.
Among other things, in the summer you can also shorten new shoots by about two or three eyes. According to experienced gardeners, summer pruning significantly reduces the amount of work in spring and autumn. And also the summer procedure increases by an order of magnitude yield factor . As a result of a properly carried out event, strong strong stems grow, strong and abundant fruit buds are formed, from which voluminous and high-quality fruits will subsequently appear.
Simultaneous ripening of fruits is ensured, the palatability of pears increases, the flow of nutrients to the fruit units increases.
Required inventory
In order to properly cut dry stems or form a crown for a young tree, the following tools are used: a bypass pruner, a pruner with an anvil, a pruner, a garden saw, a set of garden knives.
Which tool to use depends on the specific purpose of trimming..
- Bypass pruner is a kind of scissors, because it cuts in a similar way. A convex blade slides along the inner surface of a concave - supporting blade. When choosing a bypass pruner, you should pay attention to the size of the gap between the blades - if it is large, it will “chew” rather than cut branches. You can check it on plain paper - an even cut on the sheet indicates the evenness of the cut on the branches.
- Secateurs with anvil works like an ax, that is, the working cutting side cuts the branch until it hits the anvil. Such a pruner does not jam, unlike a bypass tool, however, it is impossible to work with such equipment in a hard-to-reach area. But also this secateurs cannot cut the branch at the very base, therefore it prevents the ring pruning. As a rule, this type of inventory is used to eliminate dry wood. When choosing, pay attention to the quality of the blades. The best option is high-carbon steel, Teflon or chrome-plated. Advantage - thick stems are easily cut.
- Lopper they are used where it is impossible to reach with ordinary secateurs - the depth of the crown or high areas. The principle of operation is the same as that of conventional sectors, only the delimber allows you to remove stems at a distance, since the tool is equipped with long handles. In addition, the inventory must be held with both hands. Among other things, the lopper is capable of removing stems with a diameter of about fifty millimeters.
- garden saws designed to shorten or eliminate thicker units. By type, narrowed, sickle-shaped and bow saws are distinguished. And also in gardening stores you can buy saws with replacement blades. Pay attention to the thickness of the canvas. The best option is a hacksaw type, hardened steel.
Summer pear pruning with branches growing upwards
The correct location of the secateurs when cutting into a ring.
Branches growing upwards are observed mainly in columnar pear varieties, although there are other varieties with this feature:
- Simply Maria;
- Duchess;
- Ultra early;
- Bere Royale;
- Conference;
- November.
lasts up to four years of age. Along with shaping, dry and damaged areas are removed. If stems are seen that begin to grow horizontally from the trunk, they are immediately eliminated. Next, shoots are removed that interfere with the normal growth and development of layering that can bear fruit.
A shortening technique is being carried out, the essence of which is to shorten the growth that has formed over the year in the upper part of the trunk. In this case, the growth of vertical processes is slowed down or eliminated.
Thinning Method
When thinning, the branches are cut completely into a ring.
But also use thinning method.
The essence of this method is to provide access to light and air to the plant and fruits.
at the base completely cut out excess stems. Thus, access is freed up for disinfection and disinsection of the tree, the growth of young shoots is ensured - the tree is as ready for winter as possible, more buds develop. If the tree is old, all old, dry, damaged branches are completely eliminated, regardless of location.
Anti-aging method
The anti-aging method involves cutting out old large branches that have a small amount of pillows.
Anti-aging pear pruning.
You can do this procedure in the summer only those trees, the fruiting of which ends precisely at this time. The rest of the varieties are similar - after the end of the fruitful period. It is worth considering the fact that even after rejuvenating pruning, the old pear will significantly reduce the yield level, but this will not affect the taste and size of the fruit - only the number of fruit units.
Already in the second year after rejuvenation, the yield is able to recover and the tree will bear fruit in the same mode.
pruning pear
Columnar pear, as a rule, does not require heavy pruning, since its crown is not prone to strong density.
If a columnar pear does not give side shoots, then it has nothing to cut.
- After planting the seedling in the ground, lateral shoots are plucked off so that the trunk can fully develop.
- After the seedling has gained strength, it is allowed to leave about three side branches every year - the gardener decides which form to create.
- If the owner wants the fruits to develop directly on the trunk, remove all side rails.
For the first five years, the main conductor can not be shortened, then it can be shortened by three kidneys. However, after the main conductor begins to be shortened, attention should be paid to the growth of lateral growth, as its speed increases.
Main risks
Despite the fact that some gardeners admit the possibility of summer pruning, most of them agree that the procedure can be carried out in the summer. only as a last resort.
After pruning, the place of the cut is covered with garden pitch.
The advantage of the summer is the confidence in the absence of frost. The riskiness of summer pruning is that during the procedure, the gardener, together with the branches, cuts off the green part of the tree, directly the leaves that feed the trunk and buds.
Among other things, summer crown formation is unacceptable for most pear varieties, since there is a risk that the tree will not recover after such a global cleaning, especially if the temperature outside is more than twenty-five degrees.
It is not recommended to cut large thick branches. , since this is fraught with the drying out of the entire tree - the danger of a large loss of juice increases due to prolonged non-healing of the wound. Thus, the conclusion is determined - summer pruning is not used for all pear varieties, moreover, it is desirable to carry out only cosmetic correction of the stem part, global cleaning is not recommended.
Pear is a light-loving crop, so its dense crown requires periodic pruning. Eliminating extra branches allows you to create the correct skeleton of the tree, able to withstand even the largest fruits. It also allows you to harvest without much difficulty, freely spray the tree. Such work is carried out in order to return growth and increase productivity. The process of pruning a pear is similar to the formation of a crown on an apple tree.
- Pruning of a young pear (up to 1 year old) should be carried out at a height of 50-60 cm from the ground. This helps to stimulate the growth of new branches from the buds that are located at the bottom of the tree.
- The stem of seedlings about 2 years old should be cut by 25% so that at least 4-5 side branches remain on the stem, which would be located at an angle of 45 degrees to the trunk.
- Branches-"competitors" must be removed. It is important to ensure that all the main branches are slightly higher than the shoots of the second row. Experts recommend removing all unnecessary parts on skeletal branches by 25%. It is necessary to ensure that the top of the plant remains perfectly flat.
- From the very beginning, you need to remove the shoots that form immediately from the trunk. It is best to do so that the cutting angle is 90 degrees. Immediately after this, it will be possible to cut off other shoots that grow vertically and are located along the trunk.
- When pruning, do not leave "hemp", but do not cut off extra branches. If you grab too much, then the incision will be very deep, and it may take a long time to heal. That is why you should navigate directly along the annular influx on the bark. The "ring" is usually located at the very base of the branch.
- In the case of cutting branches with a diameter of more than 3 cm, one should be guided by a special technique: first, the branch must be filed from below, and then the file must be cut from above. This will keep the bark in perfect condition. Usually, if a branch is sawn from above and falls prematurely under its own weight, the tree's bark deteriorates.
- When the pruning of the tree is fully completed, each cut must be processed, carefully lubricated with a special garden pitch. Otherwise, they will secrete juice, which will become bait for insects. The release of such juice significantly weakens the trees.
- Experts do not recommend fertilizing a pear after pruning - the tree will take all the necessary nutrients from the root system to restore.
- It is best to prune fruit trees in early spring. With the advent of heat, as soon as the time of severe frosts ends, you should have time to cut off all garden crops before the movement of juice in them begins.
- In the first year of vegetation, absolutely all young shoots are removed from the pear trunk, and at the place where the first tier is formed, the main central shoot and about five developed side shoots are left. All other shoots are broken out or carefully pinched.
- In the second year of life, plants from its side branches leave only the 3 most developed ones (the angle of departure from the trunk of which is approximately 45 degrees), as well as the central branch, removing everything else.
- By measuring the selected branches, you can determine the length of their shortening. If it is more than 60 cm, then the branch is cut, leaving no more than 50–60 cm in length. This will allow in the future to form several branches of the second order on this segment, located at a distance of 40–50 cm from the trunk.
- To regulate fruiting, improving the quality of the fruit, it is necessary to thin out the fruit branches a little, removing the last 3-5 growths. Vertically growing branches should be shortened, transferring them to fruiting or twisting under the lower branches. By transferring and bending the branch to a horizontal position, it is possible to accelerate the onset of fruiting.
- 1. It is recommended to completely remove diseased and dried branches. In winter, such branches can freeze and even break off, damaging healthy branches.
- 2. After that, you should get rid of the branches growing at an angle of 90 degrees.
- 3. All other incorrectly growing branches are partially removed. It is worth choosing only those branches that stop the development of fruitful branches. If there are other branches that can be removed, then they need to be shortened, and completely removed the next year.
- 4. In case of complete removal of branches, no stumps should be left. Sometimes dangerous pathogenic bacteria remain on them, which can infect other plants in the area.
- 1. The crown of the tree is carefully thinned out. This is necessary so that the rays of the sun evenly heat the trunk and fruit-bearing branches.
- 2. In order to prevent the growth of the tree, in the spring the trunk is shortened by ¼ part.
- 3. Each cut made is best carefully treated with a special tool.
- 1. The first pruning should be carried out after planting the young. If this is still a small 2-year-old seedling, then the skeletal branches need to be cut first. These are those branches that are located at equal distances, 4 of them are cut off.
- 2. In order for the tree to develop correctly and safely, it is recommended to shorten the side branches by 1/4 part.
- 3. Each conductor must be left at least 30 cm higher.
- 4. When planting an annual seedling, it must be shortened, leaving a height of 55 cm.
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Basic Rules
Pruning is mainly done using a special sharp garden pruner with narrow blades. All old trees with strong and thick branches are pruned using a garden saw. It is necessary to properly cut all the branches without disturbing the vital processes of the plant.
To do this, you should consider several rules:
Types of pear pruning
A properly performed pear pruning procedure involves three steps.
1. Formative pruning - allows you to create the correct crown.
It is especially difficult for beginners to understand how to properly form the crown of a pear tree. It is recommended to do this in accordance with the following rules:
The shape of the young crown is derived when skeletal branches are visible and there are no large crossing and parallel branches running side by side. During the formation of the crown, special attention should be paid to the height of the trunk. Low-stem trees are considered preferable because their crowns are much easier to care for and harvest, reducing the risk of damage to the stem from frost and sunburn.
2. Sanitary - performed before the onset of the growing season for the plant.
Includes removal of dried and affected branches.
3. supportive - represents the main pruning, which is performed from the beginning of March to the beginning of April.
Here, small parts of large branches are cut off so as not to overload them with fruits.
pear pruning in summer
In the summer, it is preferable to use the tweezing method to trim a pear. This method has another name - pinching. The scheme of such work consists in pinching all the young shoots of the tree.
All work can be done with bare hands. Young and unnecessary shoots at the very top are pinched with nails. As a result of this, the top of the tree is completely removed up to the most hardened area. This will not allow young shoots to grow in length.
Usually summer pruning begins in early June and continues until the end of the season. The thing is that the branches do not stop growing, but only stop growing. That is why somewhere every 10 days the procedure will need to be repeated, especially with strong upward growth.
Tweezing in the summer makes it possible to significantly save energy when caring for a pear in autumn and spring. After all, many branches that need to be removed at this time have not yet gained strength. This pruning method allows you to convert all leaf buds into fruit buds. As mentioned above, while the tree does not spend its own strength on the intensive development of branches, all the nutrients go to the fruits.
Tree pruning in autumn
Fruit tree pruning is carried out in September, continues in October and ends in early December. Usually this procedure is required for pears with early or medium ripening periods. In autumn, pear cutting is necessary in order to significantly increase the tree's ability to produce large yields. The principle of pruning fruit trees in the fall is shown in the picture.
Pear pruning in autumn is performed to remove dry, diseased and damaged branches, which are better to burn as a result. Immediately after the end of this procedure, it is necessary to cut off all annual shoots: this will allow you to leave several buds on them so that new branches form from them in the spring.
To cut properly , you must follow the scheme:
spring pruning
Caring for a pear in the spring is a guarantee of a good harvest in the fall. It needs to be pruned in early spring. The exact time depends on the weather conditions of the region. As soon as the air temperature becomes more than +5 degrees, and there is no more frost at night, the tree can begin to be cut.
Spring pear pruning is carried out step by step according to the following scheme:
When carrying out spring shortening of branches, experts do not advise using nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
Winter Care
The formation of the crown in winter has an important advantage: the plant is at rest, which is why possible wounds will cause minimal damage to it.
Winter pruning is mainly carried out in February, at a temperature of no more than -15 ° C. Work usually begins with mature trees, because all their fruit buds awaken much earlier. First of all, all damaged, broken and diseased branches are removed, after which they begin to eliminate competing shoots that thicken the crown. In order for the resulting wound to heal quickly and not have time to freeze, during pruning, you need to use a sharp and absolutely clean tool. At the end of the work, all sections are processed.
Caring for a varietal pear
A common type of pear tree is considered to be "Talgar beauty" - this is a table pear variety, in which the taste qualities are determined by a large predominance of sugar over acids. To obtain tasty fruits, proper tree care is important.
Pruning the branches of the "Talgar beauty" makes it possible to correctly form the crown, which allows you to increase the yield and prevent possible diseases.
The following diagram will help beginner gardeners:
Gardeners with little experience do not see much difference between pruning young and old trees. But the tree pruning scheme at different ages has significant differences.
When planting a seedling, the root system is always damaged. The plant is under stress, so it develops worse at this time. Branches grow up a little slower, and the roots are fully restored. If pruned after planting, the plant restores rhizomes much faster, receiving from the ground all the necessary nutrients necessary for the full development of fruitful branches.
In order for the crown to form properly, the main trunk must be shortened annually. This makes it possible to spend less time trimming in the future. The most optimal For the crown of pear trees, a pyramidal shape is considered.
A pear older than one year old is best trimmed twice a year.. This should be done in spring and autumn. If the tree has been growing for more than four years, a second layer of branches can be planned. Already after the fifth year of life, the appearance of young shoots is noticeably reduced, which is why it is necessary to cut the branches selectively. Otherwise, there is a danger of removing the fruitful branch.
For old plants It is recommended to use a rejuvenating pruning method. Most often, it consists in the complete removal of old branches that no longer bear fruit. With this, you can not only thin out the crown, but also provide the tree with good ventilation, stimulate the active growth of young shoots.
Rejuvenating pruning is recommended at the end of winter or at the very beginning of spring. The most important thing is to try to be in time before the start of the growing season. Older trees are less sensitive to low temperatures. However, pruning is still best done when the air temperature is around 0 degrees.
The basic principles for the formation of young trees are the same for all pome crops. The purpose of pruning a young tree (including pears) is to create a strong skeleton, a strong crown that can withstand the impressive weight of fruits in the future, and the full weight of snowfalls, which, for example, can happen in the Urals in June. Wet snow adhering to leaves often breaks trees.
Pear shaping pruning
With the help of formative pruning, we lay the foundation for the health of the pear tree in the future and program its longevity. Differences in the formation of the pear crown are due to the peculiarities of its growth and development.
Many varieties of pear have a low shoot-forming ability with a high growth force. This leads to the fact that a strong increase is formed annually in the form of powerful shoots, which are directed almost vertically and at the same time they practically do not branch. Fruit twigs on such growth do not form for a long time, so gardeners often complain about the late (after 7-8 years) pear entry into fruiting.
3 tricks will help to weaken the growth of shoots and speed up the process of formation of fruit buds:
- tweezing (summer pruning),
- short cut,
- escape rejection.
Summer pear pruning
In summer, it is customary to tweeze on young pear trees. Tweezing (from the word tweezers) is summer pruning or, more simply, summer pinching of pear shoots. Removing the top of the shoots in the summer leads to a delay in their growth by 15-20 days. At the same time, nutrients are redirected to the growth of the shoot in thickness and the laying of fruit buds. As a result, the lateral buds awaken, lateral shoots appear.
Light summer pruning avoids drastic pruning in autumn and spring. Remember that heavy pruning is always a lot of stress for the tree. In addition, it leads to the appearance of fatty shoots - tops. Summer pinching of shoots accelerates their ripening and increases winter hardiness.
Shortening pear pruning
Short pruning helps to reduce shoot growth. At the same time, the buds located below the pruning site also wake up, lateral overgrowing branches and fruit formations appear.
Remember that the stronger the degree of pruning, the more dormant buds wake up, the stronger the growth for the next year. Therefore, you can not overdo it with shortening pruning. A serious injury to a tree can be inflicted, and the effect will be the opposite.
Pear Shoot Deviation
A very effective approach. When the shoot is rejected, its growth slows down, fruit twigs are formed - ringlets and spears. Fruiting occurs 2-3 years earlier.
How to form the correct pear crown
The type of crown formed in a pear is sparsely tiered, as in an apple tree, but the shape of the crown in an apple tree is most often sprawling, in a pear it is pyramidal.
By the age of five, a young pear should have a trunk 60-80 cm high, 2-4 branches of the first tier, which diverge from the central conductor in different directions. Then a gap of 50-60 cm, then 2-3 branches of the second tier, which also diverge in different directions. At the same time, the branches of the second tier should not be parallel to the branches of the first tier, so as not to obscure them.
The center conductor should be the tallest part of the tree. The branches of the second tier should be shorter than the branches of the first tier.
Inexperienced farmers claim that pruning of fruit trees is allowed at any time of the year, but an experienced business executive knows that spring pruning will bring the greatest benefit. For a particular variety, species, there are individual nuances of the procedure.
The purpose of the event is to increase productivity, increase the mass of fruits, which means that spring is the most favorable period for cleaning.
The formation of the pear crown takes place over several years.
Many inexperienced gardeners believe that pruning is an unnecessary measure for a young plant, but this is not so.
In a young plant, one should begin to form a crown, a skeleton - to direct the branches in a way that will be convenient to harvest later, to carry out sanitization.
If you let everything take its course, the tree grows to large sizes, which will significantly reduce productivity and fruit quality.
Rules
Gradual formation of the pear crown.
In order to properly cut, you must follow certain rules:
In a year
This is how the pear crown should ideally look like.
A year later, the procedure is not repeated - a different principle is applied . Pay attention to the shoots of the second order, shorten the stems in such a way as to prevent interference with the growth of the main processes. If extra branches have grown in the depths of the crown, which prevent the access of light and air, they are also removed. The necessary tools for such manipulations are garden shears, pruners, loppers.
Among other things, it should be remembered that pruning too early, when frosts are still possible, can lead to the death of the seedling, so the temperature should be as stable as possible during manipulations with the tree.
Later years
In the following years, as the pear develops and grows, there will be less pruning work - only sanitary cleaning and elimination of density will be needed.
After the formation of the crown for the pear, only supporting pruning will be needed.
Cut off only old, diseased or broken stems. But also those stems that interfere with the access of light and air, that is, provoke too much density, are also subject to elimination. If, for various reasons, you have to cut down thick branches, you need to act carefully, since you can easily damage the trunk and nearby branches, and the wounds may not heal for a long time. Immediately after the event, fertilizers of nitrogenous origin should not be applied.
pruning mature tree
As for pruning an adult tree, many summer residents argue for a long time, because they are afraid to cut off extra units. However, this is an unjustified fear, since strong growth provokes excessive density and a slowdown in the development of the tree.
Thinning pruning of a running pear.
Rules for "adult" pruning:
- removal of stem shoots;
- prevention of stumps;
- correct sawing of thick growths;
- slice processing;
- deadlines.
First of all, stem shoots are eliminated, that is, those that grow from the central trunk. They are cut at a right angle, and after that they pay attention to the branches growing upwards parallel to the trunk.
When carrying out the event, it is necessary to act in such a way that hemp does not form, while it is advisable not to cut off more than necessary, otherwise the healing will be delayed.
In case of removal of branches whose diameter exceeds three centimeters , you should act correctly - first they are filed at the bottom, then at the top. Thus, the integrity of the bark will be preserved, because with a single saw cut, under the weight of a branch, the peel is torn and removed from a large area of \u200b\u200bwood.
Peculiarities
To seal the saw cut, garden pitch is used.
After pruning, the wounds are sealed with garden pitch. This measure will contribute to the speedy healing, and the abundant secretion of juice will not attract the attention of insects.
At this stage, the introduction of top dressing is prohibited. At this time, the trunk and branches will receive nutrition from the roots, and top dressing will upset the balance and nourish only the green part of the tree.
Among other things, spring pruning of an adult tree shouldn't happen too early , the best time is a steadily rising temperature. As in the case of a young tree, an adult plant should be pruned every year, eliminating excess, damaged and incorrect shoots. If the goal of pruning is to accelerate the start of fruiting, then you need to thin out the crown.
Pruning an old tree
Thinning the old pear into young growths that appeared independently when the old branches died.
It often happens that only old pears are left in the garden plot, but the owner is quite satisfied with the variety and I want to prolong life and fruiting. In this case, you need to know how to properly cut such a plant.
First of all, it should be noted that pruning an old pear requires a lot of effort and improvised means, since you have to work hard. And it is also desirable to act together with an assistant, because it will be difficult to cope alone.
To trim old branches, you have to climb high on a tree.
First of all, attention is paid to the top of the crown. The entire upper part is removed, including young shoots. It is worth realizing from the very beginning that the “old woman” will have to be cut almost in half - only after that she will be able to resume full fruiting. After rarefaction, the tops move to the lower region. Only two rows are not touched from below - about seven skeletal units are left. The distance between the stem layers should be one meter.
If this is not possible, then it is necessary cut off the middle pieces . Further, shoots that grow or cross inside are eliminated, old thick branches are cut down. If the pear is not more than five meters, then it will be easy to harvest later, because the stems will bend under the weight of the fruit. The plant will begin to bear fruit a year after the event.
Trimming types
Ways to trim the crown of a pear.
If you remove all unnecessary at one time, fast-growing shoots will soon outgrow the crown, which will adversely affect the productivity and quality of the fruit.
- The first kind - forming the crown and skeleton . As a rule, this type of pruning is applied to young seedlings from the moment of planting to five years.
- Further carried out sanitary cleaning tree. It is important to know that this type is applied before the active growing season begins. Sanitary elimination involves cutting or sawing off dry branches, wind-damaged or broken shoots, gnarled stems, branches affected by diseases or insects. If there is damage to the bark, but the branch is fresh, you can treat the tree, and not cut off the entire stem.
- The third kind - supporting, which involves the elimination of bulky branches . The main goal is to prevent overloading with fruits and subsequent density.
- If a young seedling is pruned, then the conductor is left much higher than the ripening shoots - this will form a crown in the shape of a pyramid.
- Plants, that are over one year old it is advisable to thin out not only in the spring, but also to prepare. This will help the formation of branches, on which fruits will subsequently develop.
- If a large number of tops have formed after wintering, they are usually transformed into branches, which subsequently grow over, or form a skeleton. In case of severe winter , during which the wood above the tops froze, and the larch and shoots develop poorly as a result, then the entire upper part above the tops is cut off. The second half is used to restore the crown. The second tier is laid only in the second year after planting.
Pear pruning in autumn, summer and spring is a set of activities that is mandatory for every skilled summer resident. It is difficult to find a person who does not like pear fruits. Juicy and sweet, they are consumed both in their natural form and are widely used in home cooking. In order for a tree to bear fruit regularly, it needs to be looked after. Therefore, it is necessary not only to water and fertilize, but also to cut the pear. You will learn how to do it correctly and the timing of the procedure from this article.
Purposes of circumcision
The pear is in great need of sunlight, so the main purpose of pruning is thinning and crown formation. In addition, regular pruning does not allow the tree to spend its energy on growing young shoots. Thus, all juices and nutrients go to the fruits. This not only positively affects the quantity of the crop, but also its quality.
In addition, the pear is a fairly high fruit crop. Shortening the branches will not allow the tree to grow up. Due to the timely and correct pruning of the pear, the tree will not obscure the rest of the garden trees. Yes, and harvesting the fruit will be much more convenient and faster.
Peculiarities of pear pruning in spring
Pruning pears in spring guarantees a bountiful harvest in autumn. Therefore, no self-respecting gardener misses this event. Given the importance of the procedure, spring pear pruning occurs according to the following scheme:
- The crown of the plant is thinned out. This is done so that the sun's rays freely heat the trunk and fruitful branches.
- To prevent the tree from growing, the trunk is shortened by about ¼ in the spring.
- Sections are recommended to be treated with a special tool.
For the correct formation of the crown, seedlings begin to cut from the first year of life. In the second year after planting, the seedlings are cut so that their height does not exceed 50 centimeters. This allows the tree to grow new branches from the lower buds. Thus, the correct crown is formed, which will greatly facilitate the processing of the tree in the future.
For work, secateurs are usually used. Old trees with strong and thick branches are pruned with a garden saw.
The first method is to prune branches that may not be able to support a large number of fruits and break under their weight.
The second method is to remove all incorrectly growing branches to the bottom. Those branches that do not grow horizontally to the ground are considered incorrect. This allows not only to thin out the crown, but also saves the tree from wasting nutrients on the development of useless branches.
Important! During the spring shortening of the branches, it is not recommended to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers. After winter, the tree tries to draw the maximum of nutrients from the ground, and the presence of nitrogen in fertilizers can adversely affect the taste of the fruit.
It is recommended to start work with the onset of warm days. It is difficult to give exact dates, it all depends on the region in which your personal plot is located. Therefore, as soon as the air temperature crosses the mark of +5 degrees, and at night it stops freezing, you can start cutting the tree.
Features of summer pear pruning
In summer, the tweezing method is used to trim the pear. Another name for this method is pinching. The scheme of work consists in pinching young shoots.
As you probably already understood from the name, the work can be done with bare hands. This is done in this way, young, unnecessary shoots are pinched with nails in the upper part. Thus, the entire top is removed up to the already hardened area. This prevents young shoots from growing in length.
Summer pruning begins in early June and continues throughout the season. The fact is that the growth of branches does not stop, but stops. Therefore, after about 10 days, the procedure will have to be repeated.
Summer tweezing allows you to save energy during the autumn and spring pruning of the tree. After all, most of the branches that will need to be removed during these periods have not gained strength. In addition, this pruning method helps to convert leaf buds into fruit buds. As already mentioned, when the tree does not expend energy on the development of branches, more nutrients go to the fruits.
Peculiarities of pear pruning in autumn
Pruning of pears in autumn starts from the end of August and lasts until mid-September.
Autumn pear pruning doesn't have to be drastic. If you remove all the branches at once, the tree may not survive the winter well. The secret lies in the fact that in September the movement of juices begins to slow down, but does not stop. Therefore, the tree will try to tighten all the cuts left by you. Moreover, those substances that a tree usually stores for the winter will be spent on this.
A pear at this time of the year can be properly cut according to the following scheme:
- It is recommended to remove all obviously diseased or withered branches. These branches can freeze and break off, crippling healthy branches.
- Then you should get rid of the branches that grow at an angle of about 90 degrees.
- Other, incorrectly growing branches are partially removed, so it is recommended to choose only those branches that will interfere with the development of fruitful offshoots. The rest of the branches, which, in your opinion, also need to be removed, are shortened, and removed the next year.
- With the complete removal of branches, you do not need to leave stumps. The reference point for the saw cut is a clearly visible ring, which is located at the very base of the branch.
Note to beginner gardeners
Inexperienced gardeners do not see much difference between pruning an old and a young tree. Meanwhile, the scheme for pruning trees of different ages has great differences.
For example, when planting a seedling, damage to its root system is inevitable. The tree is under stress and, accordingly, develops worse. After all, he needs not only to grow branches, but also to restore the roots. By pruning immediately after planting, you help the plant to quickly restore rhizomes and, as a result, get more nutrients from the ground that are necessary for the development of fruitful branches.
In order for the crown to form correctly, it is necessary to shorten the main trunk annually. This will allow you to spend less time on trimming in the future. After all, you have to remove only old or dried branches. For a pear, the pyramidal shape of the crown is considered optimal.
Pear, older than one year, it is recommended to trim twice a year. This is best done in spring and autumn. If the tree has been living on your site for four years, it makes sense to plan a second tier of skeletal branches. After the fifth year of life, the appearance of young shoots is greatly reduced, so pruning should be approached selectively. Otherwise, you risk removing the fruitful branch.
For older plants, a rejuvenating pruning method should be used. This usually consists of removing old and non-fruit bearing branches. This will not only thin out the crown, thereby providing the tree with better ventilation, but also stimulate the growth of young shoots.
It is better to plan anti-aging pruning at the end of winter or the beginning of spring. The main thing is to be in time before the start of the growing season. Old pears are less sensitive to low temperatures than young ones. But still, pruning is recommended at a temperature of about 0 degrees.
After rejuvenating pruning, you should not hope for a bountiful harvest. But the old pear woman will still be able to please her owner with juicy and healthy fruits.
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