3.7.6. By size and appearance, trees assigned for transplantation can be conditionally divided into five groups (Table 3.7.2).
Table 3.7.2
Group characteristic |
Pruning requirement |
Landing places |
|
deciduous trees With |
Sanitary cleaning |
Territory of residential |
|
Deciduous and coniferous |
Sanitary and |
Industrial zones, reserve |
|
Deciduous and coniferous |
sanitary, |
Industrial zones, reserve |
|
Deciduous and coniferous |
sanitary, |
Industrial zones, reserve |
|
Deciduous trees with |
sanitary, |
Industrial zones, reserve |
3.7.7. Appointment in tree transplantation especially valuable breeds with a trunk diameter of more than 25 cm is produced in exceptional cases. The decision on the possibility of their transplantation is taken collectively with the involvement of experts, phytopathologists and representatives of landscaping organizations that carry out transplantation.
3.7.8. When appointing 3-5 age groups for tree transplantation by specialists of the Department of Nature Management and Protection environment the possibility of their transportation to the landing site, as well as the risk of a windblow after landing, are taken into account.
3.7.9. The diameter or side size of a square of a clod of earth for transplanting large trees should be at least 70 cm with a trunk thickness of up to 5 cm. With an increase in trunk thickness by each centimeter, the size of the coma increases by 10-13 cm.
3.7.10. Transplantation of trees with a trunk diameter of more than 15 cm is carried out with a clod of earth 2.4 x 2.4 x 0.95 m. overall height tree 8-9 m, with pruning of lateral branches by 1/3 of the length (except for oak, birch and conifers). Due to the significant loss of decorative effect and the threat of falling when strong wind trees of these parameters can be replanted mainly on the territory of industrial zones and reserve lands.
It is forbidden to transplant trees in the absence of branching at a height of up to 4 m.
3.7.11. When transplanting shrubs, it is necessary to rejuvenate them with the removal of old stems and leaving viable and young shoots without signs of damage by pests and diseases.
3.7.12. On sites of new construction and reconstruction, preparatory work is mandatory if there are large trees of valuable species on the site that are subject to transplantation. Preparation of trees for transplantation is carried out in accordance with the dendroplan and the transfer sheet, which reflect the types, volumes preparatory activities and a work schedule developed jointly with the landscaping organization carrying out the transplant.
3.7.13. At the venues overhaul engineering communications the customer carries out preparatory work on replanting trees and shrubs in the process of developing project documentation, subject to agreement with organizations operating underground utilities.
3.7.14. Preparatory work for transplanting large-sized trees, it is recommended to carry out 1-2 seasons before the start of transplantation work. They include rejuvenation of the root system with simultaneous shaping and sanitary pruning of trees and subsequent care.
Rejuvenation of the root system is carried out during the growing season, preferably in early spring, after the soil has thawed. A trench 60-70 cm deep is dug around the tree, the inner diameter corresponding to the size of the future coma of earth. The root system is isolated with a synthetic film, and its growth occurs already inside the coma. The trench is covered with sawdust and topped with a layer of earth (10-15 cm). A ridge of earth above the trench serves to hold water during further watering of the trees.
During summer season it is necessary to carry out agrotechnical care for the crown and root system of trees being prepared using chemical and biological preparations that increase the survival rate of trees.
3.7.15. When transplanting trees to a new location, consider:
Correspondence of the new growing conditions of transplanted trees with the parameters of the site from which they were taken: composition and physical properties soils, microclimate, illumination, humidity, gas pollution, other anthropogenic factors;
Interaction of transplanted trees in the formed biogroups (symbiosis, oppression, light competition);
Correspondence of the root nutrition area with the parameters of the transplanted tree for the further development of its root system;
Durability of tree growth in new conditions while maintaining its decorative and sanitary-hygienic qualities.
3.7.16. Transplantation of large-sized trees with a clod in a package (in boxes knocked down from plank boards, in special containers, in soft packaging made of sewn burlap or tarpaulin, additionally reinforced with chain-link mesh in the summer), is usually carried out using machines and mechanisms.
3.7.17. When digging up trees, the lump should be packed in tightly fitting packaging (burlap, boxes, etc.). The voids in the coma itself, as well as between the clod and the packaging, must be filled with vegetable soil.
3.7.18. Pruning of a transplanted tree should be carried out in a volume directly proportional to the volume of the root system lost during transplantation. When pruning, it is necessary to strive for the formation of the lowest possible, rounded and compact crowns by removing the terminal shoots and branches in the upper part of the crown and preserving the lower skeletal branches as much as possible. It is also necessary to shorten the growth shoots of the current year to 12-15 cm to remove apical dominance.
3.7.19. Transplantation of large trees is carried out in compliance with a strict sequence and agrotechnical requirements established by practice:
Preparing trees for transplanting:
Perform forming and sanitary trimming of the upper and peripheral parts of the crown (above 9 m), paint over the sections oil paint on natural drying oil or garden pitch;
Remove secondary inclined trunks (if the tree is multi-stemmed) that impede the production of work, paint over the sections with oil paint on natural drying oil or garden varnish;
Cut thick roots (more than 3 cm in diameter) with scissors or a hacksaw in a trench, paint over the cuts with oil paint on natural drying oil or garden varnish.
Loading and transportation of transplanted trees:
When loading, two workers direct the tree trunk onto the vehicle using a soft rope or rope of sufficient length tied around the tree trunk;
After lifting the tree from the pit, it is lowered to the surface of the earth to check the strength of the package and complete the sanitary and molding trimming of the upper part of the crown, the sections are painted over with oil paint on natural drying oil or garden varnish;
Trees are securely installed in the body of a vehicle at a slight angle to the horizon, their trunks are supported on the tailgate of the body and on special props, laid with several layers of burlap, and securely fixed, the crown of the tree is packed with twine and ropes;
Transportation of trees is carried out in accordance with the Rules of the road.
Seating preparation:
Pits are prepared 5-10 days before planting trees;
The length and width of the pit should not be less than 90 cm greater than the dimensions of the sides of the coma, and the depth - by 20-25 cm the height of the coma;
The walls and bottom of the pit must be carefully leveled and cleaned, the bottom is loosened to a depth of 15-20 cm, a layer of plant soil 25 cm thick ("pillow") is poured, the center of the pit is marked with a peg to center the plant during planting;
Fertile land is imported in advance, the amount of which depends on the degree of fertility of the local soil. Infertile soil is renewed by 100%, its volume is equal to the volume of the planting pit minus the volume of the coma;
The workers responsible for transplanting, in the presence of the customer, after preparing the seats, carry out control measurements of the pits, taking into account the height of the root neck of the tree above the design surface of the site, with the expectation of subsequent soil shrinkage.
Tree planting:
Installing a tree with a lump in a pit is carried out using a truck crane or a special machine so that the lump protrudes 5-10 cm (depending on its size) above the ground, which avoids deep planting after subsidence of the soil in the pit;
Landing using specialized equipment with partial manual labor, with the participation of two experienced workers who have a rigging certificate and have received special training in loading and unloading heavy loads;
After installation, the lump is wrapped with a polyethylene hose with holes and brought out for the purpose of future watering and the introduction of liquid tree dressings after planting;
When planting trees with packed clods, the packaging should be removed only after precise installation tree in place;
After installing the tree in a strictly vertical position, the pit is covered with plant soil with layer-by-layer compaction, the lump is carefully lined with plant soil from below and from the sides to avoid voids leading to subsidence and tilt of the plant;
At the end of the backfilling of the earth, an earthen roller is arranged with an area equal area section of the planting pit, in order to eliminate the spreading of water during irrigation. The trunk hole may be somewhat wider than the planting hole. Its sides should be tight and not let water through;
Watering the plant is carried out until the seat is saturated with moisture, after watering it is necessary to remove the gullies, add the missing earth and mulch the surface of the planting pit with a layer of 4 cm;
After watering, it is necessary to straighten and strengthen the tree with the help of special devices with regulators;
During irrigation and subsequent care, it is necessary to use growth stimulants, fertilizers and biologically active substances that increase the survival rate of transplanted trees.
3.7.20. When transplanting large trees in winter period at an air temperature of at least -15 °C, the following requirements are met:
The land around the trees planned for transplantation, as well as in the places of planting, must be protected from freezing by loosening and backfilling with dry leaves, loose soil or covered with insulating mats;
When transplanting trees, the planting sites should be insulated, for which, within the boundaries of the pit, vegetable soil or fine peat and a layer of snow of at least 50 cm are poured in an even layer of 20-25 cm;
In winter, it is allowed to store trees with a clod of earth in specially prepared places - pits. To protect the root system from severe frosts, and earth clods - from destruction during thaws, it is necessary to cover tree clods with snow or sawdust with a layer of at least 40-50 cm;
Landing sites must be prepared in advance in thawed soil or immediately before planting using special mechanisms operating in frozen soils;
The plant should be installed in a pit on a pillow of thawed soil;
Backfilling of trenches around the coma should be done with thawed plant soil. When planting a tree with a lump, an admixture of frozen clods with a size of no more than 10 cm and in an amount of no more than 10% of the total amount of soil to be filled is allowed; clods of frozen soil should not be concentrated in one place;
After planting, it is necessary to carefully cover the hole from freezing with a layer of peat and earth with a thickness of at least 20 cm;
In early spring, the insulating material laid on the near-stem holes should be removed;
In the spring, after the beginning of the thawing of the soil, all the trees should be checked, the leaning trees straightened, but not by pulling the trunk, but by excavating the earth from the back side from the slope to the bottom of the coma;
Strengthening on stretch marks of planted trees should be carried out after thawing of the soil;
When caring for coniferous trees loosening and digging of trunk circles are not allowed.
3.7.21. After transplantation, mandatory and intensive care is required for 3-5 years until their full survival.
3.7.22. Only healthy, well-developed specimens with the limiting parameters given in Table 1 can be planted on the territory of residential microdistricts. 3.7.3.
Table 3.7.3
LIMITING PARAMETERS OF TREES TO BE PLANTED ON THE TERRITORY OF MICRODISTRICTS
3.7.23. When transplanting large trees during the growing season, the crown and root system they must be treated with growth stimulants.
3.7.24. The natural mortality of transplanted large-sized trees should not exceed 25%.
3.7.25. The replacement of non-rooted large-sized trees is carried out by the landscaping organization - contractor within one year from the moment the transfer ticket is closed. Replacement is made for trees aged 12-15 years, corresponding in their external parameters to GOST 249098/81 and 25769/83.
The species (species) composition of green spaces planted to replace the lost (non-habitat) ones is determined by the Department of Nature Management and Environmental Protection, about which an appropriate act is drawn up.
In case of tree replacement without agreement with the territorial department of environmental control of the Department of Nature Management and Environmental Protection of the city of Moscow and for non-established trees in excess of natural decay, the Department of Nature Management and Environmental Protection calculates the damage in accordance with Decree of the Government of Moscow N 897-PP dated November 14, 2006 "On Approval of the Methodology for Assessing the Amount of Damage Caused to the Environment by Damage and (or) Destruction of Green Plantations in the City of Moscow".
When is the best time to repot trees and shrubs? Consider how and when you can transplant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.
The end of summer - the beginning of autumn is a good time for planting and transplanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and successfully overwinter, you need to follow some regulations.
- Plant plants with an open root system from the first decade of April to the second decade of May and from the second decade of August to the first decade of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.
- When planting, cut off inflorescences and part of the leaves from plants, especially large ones. leaf blades to prevent excessive evaporation and moisture loss.
- Digging and landing in a new place is desirable to carry out in one day.
- After planting, transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.
- Do not plant plants together with the container, carefully remove the container without destroying the lump.
- Do not deepen the root neck of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.
When is the best time to transplant fruit trees?
Fruit trees are best planted and transplanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth, approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, as well as using special equipment. This technology is called "landing large-sized".
- It is carried out in late autumn, winter and early spring periods, with the exception of summer.
When boarding and transplanting fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the area of \u200b\u200bthe root system so that small overgrown roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit, it is also necessary to prune the aerial parts in order to balance the crown and root system.
When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to deepen the root collar in order to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.
When is the best time to transplant ornamental trees and shrubs?
The highest rates of survival are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter.
When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the aboveground and underground parts. After that, plants need regular, but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings of "Epin" or "Zircon" on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting for all crops, a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.
When is the best time to transplant conifers?
They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. Open root system coniferous plants practically do not implement, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, the plants are watered under the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.
Photo 1. A 6.5-meter large crop was selected for transplanting to a new location.
Nothing can beautify a yard like beautiful, properly shaped trees. But if you start with seedlings, it may take a generation or more to reach full bloom. Of course, you will enjoy their growth period, but the real shade in summer and the balanced visual effect of your yard will take a long time. In such cases, Lesmaster offers transplantation of large-sized trees (Photo 1).
Large trees are mature trees (from about three to fifteen meters in height) that are used for planting for economic and decorative purposes (Photo 1). Trees, in particular, large trees, are an indispensable element of gardening. Plants with a developed crown are considered large even if their height is below the minimum height indicated.
Krupnomer has a root system located in large volume soil, sometimes the weight of this soil for especially large trees can reach 6.5 tons, but, as a rule, for trees from the nursery it is less.
a clear indicator proper development mature tree is a well-balanced uniform system of branches.
Large crops should be transplanted because:
planting such trees on the site creates a visual feeling of a harmonious, balanced, coordinated landscape.
with the help of large-sized, you can quickly organize a comfortable area for living.
Their transplantation allows you to avoid waiting for decades and makes it possible to correlate the timing of building a house with visual and functional organization yard space.
Large-sized transplant technology
Photo 2. Before digging, tree branches are carefully tied up.
Landing of large-sized plants can be carried out throughout the year, subject to certain requirements.- carrying out protective measures and ensuring proper care. This allows you to green the territory at any time of the year and plan the timing of the work.
The most common winter planting of large-sized plants (from the end of November to March), as the plants are at rest, as a result of which it is easy to transport large-sized plants together with the planting ball.
An adult tree - a large-sized tree - is specially prepared for digging and for planting (Photo 2). You need to understand that just dug in the forest a big tree cannot be considered a large size in terms of technology, despite its large size.
A qualitative characteristic of a large-sized plant is its good survival in a new place.
This is exactly what the main efforts of nurseries preparing large-sized ones are aimed at. During the period of their preparation, the root system of the tree is cut off - the lateral roots are removed, the plants are fed with special preparations, which allow creating conditions in the root zone for enhanced development of the lateral roots.
The main stages of landing large-sized:
Photo 3. Digging large-sized with the help of a special machine - rooter.
Photo 4. The tree is ready to be transported to a new planting site.
1. Selection of planting material. When choosing planting material growth conditions, soil composition, the presence of diseases and pests are taken into account - only healthy specimens are selected. For transplantation, trees of Moscow region origin are mainly selected, but for some rare breeds delivery from Smolensk, Tula, Kaluga or Tambov regions is possible. In addition, it is also possible to use imported planting material.
2. Digging, (Photo 3). Dimensions - diameter and depth - of an earthen coma are determined taking into account the thickness of the tree trunk, its species, future growth conditions. Before transportation of an adult tree, the earthy lump is frozen or, during the frost-free period, it is securely packed. If necessary, the crown of the tree is packed for safe transportation.
3. Loading and transportation, (Photo 4). The main requirements for loading and transporting a tree are the preservation of an earthen clod - the root system, trunk and crown. Loading and transportation are carried out at a temperature not lower than -18 ° С.
4. Landing large size. Planting pits are dug out taking into account the peculiarities of planting a certain tree species in advance or immediately before its delivery; the pits should not be frozen. Installed around the tree, the streamers are leveled after the soil thaws and remain for 1 year or more. Performed sanitary pruning tree.
5. Care. The average survival rate of trees is about 95%, which is achieved by combining the observance of the technology of the transplantation procedure with the maximum possible non-damage of the earthen clod and regular maintenance activities, namely:
stimulation and encouragement
protection against diseases and pests, etc.
For particularly large trees that may not respond immediately to replanting, we offer extensions of maintenance into the second and even third year after planting.
The cost of planting coniferous large-sized trees
| wood species | tree height | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3-4 m | 4-6 m | 6-8 m | 8-10 m | 10-12 m | |
| Norway spruce green (photo) | 14 200 | 23 100 | 35 800 | 58 000 | 94 300 |
| Blue prickly spruce (photo) | 52 000 | 87 400 | 136 700 | 181 000 | 239 000 |
| Scotch pine (photo) | 22 000 | 32 500 | 53 000 | 87 400 | 112 000 |
| Siberian cedar pine (photo) | 54 000 | 99 200 | 142 700 | 160 800 | 245 000 |
| Pine black (photo) | 58 900 | 106 300 | 158 000 | 172 000 | 253 500 |
| Siberian larch (photo) | 19 000 | 23 300 | 38 800 | 53 600 | 65 000 |
| European larch (photo) | 18 500 | 23 100 | 39 000 | 45 600 | 59 600 |
| Siberian fir (photo) | 64 700 | 96 000 | 119 000 | 180 400 | 232 100 |
| Thuja western (photo) | 58 200 | 90 500 | 113 500 | 174 100 | 228 000 |
The cost of planting deciduous large-sized trees
| wood species | tree height | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3-4 m | 4-6 m | 6-8 m | 8-10 m | 10-12 m | |
| Hanging birch (photo) | 13 100 | 21 000 | 32 500 | 75 100 | 92 800 |
| White birch (photo) | 19 800 | 24 000 | 41 900 | 62 000 | 88 000 |
| Norway maple (photo) | 26 000 | 34 800 | 49 000 | 62 000 | 89 000 |
| Small-leaved linden (photo) | 17 000 | 21 000 | 34 500 | 56 900 | 73 000 |
| Large-leaved linden (photo) | 16 700 | 18 800 | 34 000 | 51 000 | 83 000 |
| Rowan ordinary (photo) | 18 100 | 21 300 | 36 100 | 121 000 | 198 200 |
| Pedunculate oak (photo) | 16 200 | 21 500 | 67 500 | 98 500 | 102 000 |
| Oak red (photo) | 28 000 | 32 000 | 54 400 | 121 000 | 198 700 |
| Elm smooth or rough (photo) | 16 700 | 19 700 | 29 000 | 36 000 | 53 000 |
| Manchurian walnut (photo) | 14 900 | 25 000 | 33 600 | 52 800 | 71 800 |
| Walnut hybrid (photo) | 16 900 | 32 900 | 42 900 | 68 900 | 91 200 |
| Poplar pyramidal (photo) | 9 300 | 17 900 | 20 800 | 53 800 | 69 100 |
| Common ash (photo) | 23 100 | 26 500 | 43 700 | 84 100 | 125 600 |
| Horse chestnut (photo) | 24 700 | 27 300 | 40 100 | 132 000 | 154 000 |
| Weeping willow (photo) | 18 400 | 20 800 | 39 000 | 63 000 | 82 400 |
- The cost of planting a tree includes:
the cost of the tree;
cost of nutrient soil;
delivery, planting a tree with a crane, backfilling with nutrient soil;
installation of stretch marks;
pest control, top dressing;
1 year warranty.
The price of planting a large-sized tree does not include watering the planted tree, it is carried out by the customer.
Prices are indicated at a distance of objects from Moscow no more than 20 km, for more remote objects the cost may be increased.
The warranty for trees can be extended up to two years for an additional fee, the cost of the warranty depends on the species and size of the tree and is negotiated separately.
If it is not possible to plant a tree weighing more than 100 kg using crane installations, the tree is planted by hand, the cost of planting in this case is negotiated separately.
Loading and removal of infertile soil and construction debris at a distance of more than 20 m from the tree planting site is paid additionally.
The indicated prices may vary depending on the level of complexity of the work, the remoteness of the objects from Moscow, terms and other factors.
How to transplant a mature tree
Photo 5. Transplantation of an adult tree.
Large trees give maturity, grandeur to the landscape, completeness of its space, provide shade in sunny days and improve air quality.
Growing a tree from a small sapling to a large spreading specimen requires a lot of time and effort. It is much easier to immediately plant a large tree on your site.
This helps explain the growing popularity of large-sized transplants.
Enough mature tree can be dug up with a special machine and transplanted into your yard within hours, saving you ten years of waiting. This is a really attractive option (Photo 5).
If you're thinking about transplanting a large size, you really need to weigh a lot.
Not every yard is suitable for transplanting a mature tree, and not every mature tree will stand the test.
The cost of large-sized transplantation should also be taken into account. However, transplanting mature trees makes sense in many cases, so let's go through the process from start to finish.
Equipment for transplanting large-sized
Photo 6 . Large size transplant machine
tree transplant machine is a machine that uses hydraulics to drive triangular blades into the ground in such a way as to extract a conical earthen ball, (Photo 6). The blades are mounted on modified trucks with retractable stabilizers that support and adjust the four blades. The two rear blades are mounted on a folding frame, which allows the rear of the machine to swing open wide when approaching a tree.
There are various tree transplant machines various sizes and various types.
Since the size of the tree determines the type of machine you are using, make sure you clearly and clearly state your requirements to the company manager before starting work. The range of standard equipment ranges from 60 cm in diameter* to 3 m giants.
*The diameter of a clod is the width of an earthen clod on its surface. This distance divided by 10 determines the size of the tree that can be successfully replanted.
So, a machine with a shovel diameter of 60 cm, for example, can transplant a tree with a trunk diameter of 6 cm at a height of 0.5 m from the ground.
On the other hand, a 3m shovel mounted on a semi-trailer can replant a 10m tree. This limits the size of the installations. It should also be taken into account that the transplantation of such trees may be limited by the possibility of movement, since only such a clod of soil can weigh from 5 to 6.5 tons. High equipment costs and high prices really big trees, lead to the fact that the final bill for one transplant can exceed several thousand dollars.
The process of digging and planting a large tree
Photo 7. Digging a hole before planting a tree.
Every tree planting first requires removing soil from your yard to create a hole for the new tree (Photo 7). As a rule, this earth is then covered with the original place of digging the tree.
1. The operator places the blades of the machine around the tree being dug. Then, with the help of hydraulics, he directs the blades into the ground along given points. The barrel is then tied to the car to prevent it from shifting during transport.
2. Next, the operator hydraulically lifts the root and earthen ball out of the ground, lifting it over the rear of the truck. Thus, the captured tree is placed horizontally on top of the transport truck.
3. When planting a tree, the car tilts it, returns it to a vertical position and centers the blades in the hole. After the earthen ball with the root has been lowered, the blades are removed.
When planning your job, keep in mind that truck-mounted blades need room to maneuver. Steep slopes, power lines, proximity to buildings, and other location factors can affect your ability to transfer.
Note also that total weight truck and tree can damage sidewalks, paths, spoil the lawn. If you plan to plant large-sized plants on a new site, then it is better to do this before landscaping the yard. Also, make sure that there are no underground utilities at the planned tree planting site.
The key to the success of a large-sized transplant
Photo 8. Preparation of the root system for transportation.
The 10:1 ratio between the blade diameter of a tree transplanter and the diameter of a tree trunk is perhaps more of a mechanical limitation than a requirement of the tree's root system.
The uprooted tree should have enough intact root system to replace the moisture that is lost through the foliage during evaporation, (Photo 8). This also explains why the survival rate decreases with summer period and increases in the cold months of autumn.
To increase the establishment in spring and summer, large machines can be used to transplant small trees. There are also preparations that can be sprayed on the leaves to temporarily reduce the evaporation of water through them. And finally different kinds trees have different survival rates. Spruce, for example, tolerates transplanting well, so you can transplant spruce with a diameter of 20 cm using a machine with a blade diameter of 1.5 m.
In fact, most evergreens tolerate transplanting easily because they have a shallow root system. Some other types of trees, including oak and walnut, take root deep into the ground, which after transplantation will take much longer to recover.
Further complicating the situation are dry, rocky soils, they encourage shallow-rooted trees to root deeper, while fertile, loamy soils encourage near-surface root growth. None of these factors predetermine the transplant as a whole, but they should be taken into account when carrying out the work. Some trees are still better planted as seedlings.
A deep root in the form of a rod is also a problem when transplanting. Tree transplanter blades do not close fully when fully extended. Thus, they do not always cut the tap root below the level of the earthen clod, as is possible, but cut it off during the rise of the earthen clod, sometimes quite close to the surface.
If you are going to transplant a large number of trees or fairly large trees, please note that it is worth using tree transplant machines that can cut the main root stem.
Transplant pricing
The working conditions in each case vary significantly, so it is impossible to say exactly how much you will pay for transplanting a large-sized plant into your yard.
Two variable costs in works - this is the cost of the tree and the cost of delivering it to the transplant site. If you are not transplanting a tree from your own yard, or if you don't get it for free, you will have to purchase one.
And, while prices vary, this is a significant part of the cost you will have to incur. For locally distributed species, they will be more modest, while blue spruce with ideal shapes will cost more. In other words, the cost of a tree largely affects the final cost of transplanting large trees.
As for transport costs, the key factor will be your place of residence. Some companies, when they have to deal with heavy traffic, long distances will charge more. Some set hourly pay, while the Lesmaster company sets a rate for transportation over a certain distance, and if the limit is exceeded, an additional payment is calculated based on the mileage.
In most cases, discounts can and should be negotiated.
Aftercare for large size
Photo 9. Transplanted tree with struts installed.
The care you provide for a transplanted bighorn will greatly affect its chances of survival, which is critical in the first year.
The two most important steps to improve the chances of survival of a large size are to provide adequate support and carefully fill the seam between the earthen clod and the surrounding soil, (Photo 9).
Install at least three heavy stakes into the ground outside the root system and secure the tree with rope or nylon cord. To avoid damaging the tree trunk while being supported, run a rope or cord through a short length of garden hose so that it completely encircles the tree. You can also buy special attachments for this purpose.
As for the seam between the earthen clod and the surrounding soil, the task is to elimination of any air pockets between them. On loamy or sandy soils, it may be sufficient to simply fill it with water, but in most cases you need to backfill the soil along the seam and then fill it with water. If you see open areas after a while, repeat the process.
Suitable watering is another important factor. Because it's just as easy for a tree to be damaged by under-watering as it is by over-watering, and you need to keep a close eye on the situation. Soil type when watering is a major factor.
Heavy clay soils do not absorb water very well, so excess water is more likely to occur in clay soil.
A good test for water seepage through the soil is to fill the transplant hole with water one-third as soon as it is dug. If a most of water is absorbed in about an hour, excess water will be unlikely.
In any case, after the tree has been planted and sprinkled with earth, it is necessary to carefully water the seam.
On non-clay soils, repeat the process for a few days and then water as usual, just like you would your lawn.
As for fertilizers, you should wait until next season. The main goal immediately after transplanting a large-sized plant is not in its growth, but in restoring the root system. If you do add anything, let it be a root stimulant, primarily vitamin B-1. This stimulant may contain some fertilizer, but it should either not contain nitrogen or its content should be low.
The best time to apply Root Stimulant is when watering the seam initially.
Sometimes a summer resident has to replant an adult fruit-bearing tree. We share the experience of transplanting a 10-year-old fruit tree without damage to the plant and without the use of mechanisms.
Snow is not a hindrance
Based personal experience I can say that the success of planting a fruit tree to a large extent depends on right choice time for this difficult procedure. It is better to determine the date by specific weather conditions and past experience.
For many years I have followed the rule - autumn transplant I spend trees after the third stable frost, but not earlier than October 20. You can replant trees throughout November, not paying attention to the first temporary snow. I had to do this job and
December. All of them took root normally, and the first, however, modest harvest happened to be received already in the next year after transplantation.
I transplant mature fruit-bearing trees only as a last resort. First, of course, they need to be dug up; it is not difficult to deal with five-year-old specimens. Digging up a tree older than 5-8 years is much more difficult. At this age, trees have a developed root system, and in order to preserve most of the roots, a significant amount of work has to be done. earthworks. It requires effort, patience, accuracy.
With late autumn planting I prepare the pit in advance, and next to it I lay nutrient soil in a mound or fertile soil and cover with ruberoid. I spill the pit before planting, regardless of the weather, with water (3 buckets). I pour nutrient soil into the planting hole with a mound. If there are no ingredients for preparing a nutrient mixture for filling the planting pit, I use garden soil, add some clean sand and a scoop to it. wood ash. I mix the mixture thoroughly.
setting the balance
Just before transplanting, I prune the crown of the tree to restore some balance with the root system, which will decrease in size. Yes, and it is more convenient to move such a tree. With a successful transplant, the tree restores its crown in 2-3 years.
You can dig an adult tree by hand. You will need a bayonet shovel, a garden fork, a hacksaw, a chopper, a pruner and a small, well-sharpened ax.
Before I start digging, I make markings for the trench around the tree. Its diameter depends on the size of the plant (1.5 m or a little more), the width is about one and a half bayonet of a shovel, and the depth is at least two bayonets of a shovel. This trench is intended to mark the root system of the tree.
Then, according to the markup, I begin to dig a trench, put the blade of the shovel along the radius to the center. I carefully cut the ends of the roots extending from the tree (along the outer contour of the trench) with a pruner.
The roots of a small diameter, going deep, I pull out with my hands. At the same time, I apply force to the part of the root that goes into the ground, so as not to tear off
His. Approaching the trunk, I gradually deepen the hole. Roots of large diameter, going deep, sawed off or carefully chopped off.
When the root system is clearly visible, the tree must be tilted in different directions to determine in which direction it is more convenient to lay it. If the crown is not cut in advance, then this work can be done at this stage. Then you need to chop off or pull out the last roots holding the tree. It is impossible to apply great efforts so as not to damage the plant.
I move the tree with a small clod of earth to the landing pit. The size of the coma for a pre-winter transplant is not fundamental, the minimum that holds the plant is enough. You can move a tree a short distance on a garden wheelbarrow. However, it is better to carry it together in your arms (the mass of a plant with a clod of earth usually does not exceed 25 kg).
I somehow had to transport an adult tree to the landing site in a truck. The crown of the tree was then easily tied with twine to reduce its size and reduce the risk of branches breaking. I put it under the root system soft material and fixed the tree with a strong rope.
Starting planting, I measure the height of the root system, I provide for a slight correction for the fit of the roots when installing the tree. Sometimes I do a “fitting” before filling the hole with soil. The upper roots should be at the level of the general layer of the earth or 2-3 cm lower: by spring the earth will be compacted, the tree will drop a little.
I put the plant in the planting hole, slightly shake it so that the earth is evenly distributed. Then, in three doses (1 bucket each), I spill the soil with water. I straighten the roots and clarify the position of the root system in height. I usually make a planting hole a little larger than the diameter of the tree's root system. But sometimes the ends of too long roots have to be carefully bent along the contour of the pit. I do not allow deep planting, in which the upper roots are below the level of the fertile soil layer.
I fill the roots with earth without lumps. I do it carefully, without haste. I do not throw large, heavy clods of earth: they can tear off small roots. Gradually, the pit is filled with soil, I put a little more earth on top and slightly compact it, but so as not to damage the roots.
AT last years I do not put supports for the trunks of transplanted trees. In late autumn, there is no foliage on the tree, the crown is cut off, so the windage is small and it is quite stable.
The transplanted tree is watered all the next summer and until late autumn in hot windy weather (1 time in 10 days), I spend sprinkling more often. Mature trees transplanted according to the described technology take root well.
Despite the outward simplicity and ease of the process, the tree painfully tolerates transplantation: in this case, part of the root system is lost, the functioning of water exchange processes is partially disrupted, and immunity to diseases is weakened. As a result, it becomes vulnerable to environmental influences. Trees up to 3 years old tolerate transplantation quite easily, but the older the plant, the more difficult it is to restore its root system and the more time it takes to adapt to new conditions.
Choosing the best time to transplant
The best time is late autumn or early spring. In autumn, work is carried out from mid-October to the end of November. But if the first half of autumn turned out to be warm and humid, the process of plant growth may be delayed. In this case, it is better to postpone the procedure until a later period, when the tissues of the branches have time to mature and be ready for winter. The advantage of planting in late autumn is that by the onset of spring the root system will take root well and will be able to function normally by the beginning of the growing season.
It is important for a plant transplanted in autumn to provide protection from upcoming frosts by wrapping its trunk and the bases of glued branches with thick light paper or covering them with a layer water-based paint. In the spring, it is recommended to transplant as early as possible, before the buds begin to swell.
Caring for transplanted trees
In the first growing season after planting, the transplanted plant requires special care. It is very important to prevent the fruiting of the tree at this time, to remove the set flowers and ovary - the formation of fruits will deprive the already weakened body of a significant amount of nutrients and water. Carefully monitor sufficient soil moisture, especially in summer. When the plant finally takes root, you can start foliar top dressing nitroammofoska or urea solution (0.3%).
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