Drawing of a wooden hanger for clothes. How to make an elegant floor hanger for everyday clothes with your own hands. Hanger with shelf

Hangers are an important part of a person’s life; without it, organizing space in a closet is problematic. It’s easier to buy them in a store, but if you want to place clothes on beautiful, hand-made coat hangers, you should start making them.

Most interesting option- hangers made of thick wire, curved in the form of an inscription. They look original and successfully perform the main function.

Hanger with basket

Most practical option- a hanger with a wicker basket attached to its lower part. Hangers can be made from thick wire, and baskets can be used to fold scarves, gloves, keys, and other small things.

Board hanger

The easiest option to make a capacious hanger for outerwear, umbrellas and bags is to take a board. Is taken regular board, and many small hooks are nailed to it. The hanger is ready!

Coastal hanger

If you have minimal carpentry skills, you can make a coastal-style hanger. It differs in that right above the hooks there is a kind of shelf on which you can put wicker baskets.

Fork hanger

One of creative options floor hanger- a pitchfork, or rather, several pitchforks interconnected. Forks (3 pieces) are taken and tied in the middle so that Bottom part formed a tripod. The upper part of the fork with teeth will act as hooks.

Hooks are attached to the old backs for chairs. In this case, not the entire back is used, but only its upper part. To make the hanger look attractive, it is recommended to paint it with bright paint. For scarves, it is better to choose a back with vertical slats, and for coats - with horizontal ones.

Re-equipment of a floor lamp

The easiest way is to make a floor hanger from an old floor lamp. The support is already there, and it is enough to fix the hooks on the lampshade. The base of the floor lamp can be decorated as you wish.

Wooden floor hanger

It is cleaned of knots and bark, and then processed with sandpaper. 3 legs are nailed to the bottom of the tree for support. The top of the hanger is designed in the form of a crown. Branches act as hooks - they are cleaned and polished. The finished structure is covered with paint or varnish. Large beads can be used to decorate the hanger.

Floor hanger made of timber

The product can be made from standard timber with a section of 10x10 millimeters. The length of the hanger is selected according to your height. As legs, 4 bars with a length of 35 centimeters are used. One end should be cut at a 45 degree angle. Small planks should be nailed between the legs and the support to make the structure stable. Hooks are nailed to the base in its upper part. The finished product is covered with paint or varnish.

Eco-style floor hanger

4 sticks or 4 cuttings from a shovel are taken. You will also need one long stick on which you can hang clothes.
First, 4 sticks are tied so that 2 crosses are obtained.
To make the construction strong, a plank is nailed to the bottom of each cross. All components are connected with screws.
It remains only to treat the surface with an antiseptic and cover it with paint or varnish.

Important! For structural stability, the sides in the form of a cross are tied closer to the top.

You can make hangers yourself from anything. The shape and material for the production of hangers are selected based on your preferences. However, when using wooden products, do not forget that they need additional processing, otherwise the product will become a home for insects.

DIY clothes hanger from an old chair (video)

Everyone knows the saying that "the theater begins with a hanger." It is worth saying that not only in public institutions the hanger plays an important role, but also in apartments and houses. After all, the absence of this important piece of furniture can cause confusion in the hallway. Today there are many kinds of hangers of various shapes and designs on sale, but it will not be difficult at all to make and on their own from improvised materials. How to do this - we will tell further.

For the manufacture of clothes hangers, wood is usually used. But not every material is suitable for this. You should choose the most dried and durable wood. If the material is not properly dried, then after a while it may lose its shape. Of all the types of wood for hangers, it is recommended to give preference to pine. This material is good because it is easy to process and at the same time has a small weight. If you decide to use solid oak, then you should consider that it is more difficult to process and heavier. Parts of a wooden hanger are usually interconnected with glue. It also has some important requirements. By the way, glue in the presence of undried wood may lose its adhesion due to the release of moisture by the material.

A very important role is played by the choice of the shape of the hanger. It should be borne in mind that for this piece of furniture, at least three supports are required, the length of which directly depends on the height of the product. Thus, it turns out that the higher the hanger, the more massive and more support it should have. Often this product is intended not only for outerwear, but also for trouser suits in order to store all the clothes in one place. For this purpose, the width of the hanger is usually made larger than usual. Thus, many different clothes can fit here.

When you have decided on the hanger model, you should draw a diagram in which the exact dimensions of the future product will be indicated. Moreover, it is desirable to describe the dimensions of even the smallest details. This will come in handy during the manufacture of the product. When the scheme is ready, you can proceed with the installation of a wooden floor hanger for clothes.

Do-it-yourself floor-standing clothes hanger

For the manufacture of the product you need:

saw,
drill,
sandpaper,
chisel.

Necessary materials:

bars of the right size,
boards,
wood glue,
self-tapping screws,
stain for product processing,

When all this is, you can get to work. It is advisable to decide in advance on the shade of the future product. In general, light wood can be painted in almost any tone. To do this, it is enough to apply stain until the surface of the hanger is the desired shade. When stained or varnished, some kind of substrate should be placed under the product. Otherwise, drops may accidentally fall on the floor. Lacquer should be used only after the stain has completely dried. In general, because of the strong smell, it is best to work with varnish in a room that is well ventilated or, in general, on outdoors. After opening with varnish, the product should be wiped with a rag soaked in a weak solution of vinegar.

Let's consider in more detail the order of work:

First you need to prepare the wood. In particular, the tree trunk is cleared of bark and coarse knots. In no case should you leave the bark, no matter how much you want to give the product a more natural look. After all, if you leave it, it will gradually crumble, thereby creating an additional reason for cleaning the room. In addition, the bark is often the habitat of small insects.
The bark can be removed with an ax or a knife. After that, you should walk several times on the wood, first with coarse and then with fine sandpaper. The surface should eventually become smooth, at least so that the clothes do not cling to the knots.
After that, the base of the product should be made. It is worth saying that it is desirable to make all the elements of the hanger (legs and tripod) one piece. You don't have to start with a cross. Otherwise, if you then attach the hanger itself to it, then the structure may loosen over time. It is necessary to adhere to the following rule - the lower edge of the tripod must be made on the same plane as the soles of the legs.
After that, you can proceed to measuring the diameter of the trunk. Taken measurements will be needed to select a bar of suitable width. If the bar is wider than necessary, then you can cut it along with a hacksaw to the required size.
Usually the height of the hanger is about 1.7 m. For a product of this height, the cross should have overhangs of about 30-32 cm. Therefore, a pair of bars 65 cm long will be needed. They will need to be cut in half to get four blanks about 30-32 cm long.
The hardest part is attaching the legs to the round trunk. If you just attach the bars, then the structure will turn out to be unstable, and after the first fall, most likely, it will fall apart altogether. It is more correct to put the tripod on the floor and attach the blank legs to it. To connect them, you will need to make triangular wooden inserts. Then they are attached to the bars with self-tapping screws.
To strengthen the product in the places where the triangular elements are attached to the legs and the trunk, it is necessary to drill a hole with a diameter a few millimeters smaller than the diameter of the fastener. It will later need to be filled with glue. Only then can the screws be screwed in. Sometimes, to give stability to the structure, the holes, in addition to glue, are also filled with pieces of rubber.
To give the finished hanger functionality, you should add hooks for outerwear to it. They can be made at some distance from the trunk. One must observe here important rule. To prevent the structure from falling, the center of gravity of the clothes hung on the hanger should not be outside the cross.
Hooks can be used both homemade and decorative. In any case, they cannot be mounted directly on a tripod, because the floor clothes hanger will quickly wear out and become unusable. You can do this: take the bars and cut out of them a square with a side slightly larger than the diameter of the trunk. Initially, the hooks are attached to this wooden square, and then to the product itself. Thus, they will be securely fixed, and at the same time they will not come into contact with the “body” of the product, which, thanks to such a device, will last longer. This is especially useful for wardrobe hangers, which are used quite often.

You can decide for yourself which hooks to use - decorative or homemade. However, if you make them yourself from wire, they will not have a very attractive appearance. Therefore, it is better to give preference to decorative hooks purchased in the store. They are usually attached to the tree with a pair of self-tapping screws. If you have the necessary skills, then you can cut holes with a chisel square shape, where you should then "hide" the hooks. It will look better than just sticking it on self-tapping screws. When the hooks are in place, you need a square wooden insert connect with top products with a few screws.

As for the hanger itself, it can be painted or varnished. Choose the shade to your taste, but it is better to choose the style of finishing the room where the wooden floor hanger for the hallway will stand. A layer of paint or varnish is applied at least twice.

The base for the wooden floor hanger should be heavy and stable enough. As it, you can adapt the bottom of a floor lamp, the frame of a floor fan, or buy a stand for a Christmas tree.

Suit hanger floor wooden

The above hanger is not suitable for men's suits. Therefore, products of a slightly different design are made for them. Wood is similarly used as the main material. To assemble such a hanger, you must first measure and cut the blanks, according to the given dimensions. Then they are carefully processed and polished. After that, mounting holes are made in the right places.

Further, according to the scheme, the product itself is assembled and executed finishing. It remains to attach pieces of rubber or wheels to the base. A little more about the assembly of such a hanger: first, the vertical posts are screwed to the base with 4 large screws. Then a bar is inserted between these supports and a bar is screwed with small screws. Next, a trouser holder is inserted into the holes of the vertical racks. To securely fix it, a mallet is useful. After that, the structure is screwed to the vertical posts with four screws. Then the shoulders are screwed on. The suit hanger is ready to use.

How to make a wall hanger

The basis of such a hanger is a shield on which hooks are placed. It can be made both solid and lattice. For the last option, you need less material and it's also lighter. To assemble such a shield, a pair of bars is taken and attached parallel to each other by means of dowels. After that, they are nailed to vertical slats about 8 cm wide, and hooks are already attached to the boards.

The dimensions of such a hanger can be different and mainly depend on the dimensions of the wall and the entire room. If you wish, you can decorate it beautifully: varnish, paint or paste over with a self-adhesive film. In any case, do not forget how to process the ends and edges so that there are no rough edges. If you wish, you can make the top of the hanger with metal corners a shelf in the form of a board about 25 cm wide, where hats will be stored. If the hanger is made to the full height of the wall, then a shelf for shoes is usually equipped in the lower part. For reliability, it is desirable to install 5 × 5 bars from below, which will support this shelf.

Wooden floor hangers: photo

Clothes hangers are a must-have in every home, as otherwise outerwear quite problematic. In addition, floor hangers are also useful in the bedroom, so as not to put clothes in the closet every evening and not to use chairs or armchairs. But in the store beautiful furniture is quite expensive, so The best decision This is a DIY outdoor clothes rack. After all, from inexpensive materials, you can make original and beautiful hangers that will greatly decorate and make your interior comfortable.

You can make a clothes hanger from almost any material. But if you are going to do it yourself, the choice of material should be approached carefully.

Wood and plywood are best suited for work, these are the most practical and plastic materials that are easy to work with. If products from them are used in the house, then they are guaranteed not to be exposed to moisture and their service life will increase significantly.

Working with metal or plastic at home is quite difficult, so you should not choose these materials. It is worth considering the fact that sometimes there is a significant load on the hanger, so you need to use materials of appropriate strength so that the furniture does not break.

Examples of floor hangers using metal water pipes

When you buy wood or plywood, pay attention to their quality, because this is a guarantee that the hanger will look beautiful. In most cases wooden crafts covered only with stain or varnish, so the texture remains visible on the surface.

Floor hanger in the form of a tree

Making a floor hanger is easy, and it does not require a lot of tools and materials. This hanger is made from two sheets of plywood, approximately 70x170 cm in size and 18 mm thick. For manufacturing, you only need glue, a jigsaw and sandpaper. The work itself will also not take much time and you will not find such hangers in any furniture store.

First you need to draw on one of the sheets of plywood the outline of the future product. This can be done simply by transferring the drawing to scale on plywood. The most important thing is that the legs are of sufficient width - about 60 centimeters. This is necessary for stability, since if you make them narrow, then the hanger will fall if you hang heavy winter clothes on it.

Do-it-yourself clothes hanger is a fruitful idea. Theater begins with a hanger; house too. In the sense of spirit, atmosphere, "energy". The reason is simple: the first thing a guest looks for is where to hang outerwear. And if the hanger is clearly home-made, but comfortable, stable and durable, a positive reputation for the owner is provided.

The second argument for making a hanger with your own hands is prosaic: purchase prices are clearly disproportionate to production costs. A homemade clothes hanger will save you quite a visible amount in the budget. It is not difficult to make it, it will take a little material, and waste from repairs will also go into business. The tool in most cases can be dispensed with by hand.

These factors are especially felt if a floor hanger fits in the hallway. In addition, it can also serve as a dryer if its design is frame, see below, because. On such hangers, it is convenient to hang clothes on hangers, and the hanger itself moves away from the wall. If in the house it was possible to shield the dressing room, then the floor hanger best option. The cost of floor hangers is significantly higher than wall hangers, but there is nothing in the design that would not allow you to make a floor hanger yourself.

On the floor or on the wall?

It has already been said enough to make a choice, as long as there is enough floor space. However, let's finally compare how attractive a hanger is in a floor-type hallway:

Clothes hung on hangers dry faster, do not stretch; the collar and lining are not torn.
On a hanger approx. 1.5 m fits a seasonal set of clothes for the whole family, which will save on the closet and the area under it.
A shoe rack is naturally attached to the floor hanger, which simplifies the work of equipping the hallway and saves its area.
With correctly calculated dimensions of the hanger, neither the wall from the clothes nor the clothes against the wall are damaged.
The mobility of the hanger does not interfere with the rearrangement of furniture; after moving the hanger, it is not necessary to seal the mounting holes in the wall.

However, floor hangers are different, and not all of them are most suitable for living quarters. For example, for orders (from the old Russian “order” - office, office, office) floor lamp hangers, pos. 1-4 in the figure, it is inconvenient to hang clothes on hangers. Due to the small area of support, they are rolled, especially loaded with wet winter clothes. To emphasize the functional inferiority of the product, such hangers are called hangers, and they often go on sale under this name.

Types of floor hangers

The best option is the same theatrical wardrobe frame hanger, pos. 5. In the version for residential premises, it is supplemented with shelves for hats, shoes and gloves / scarves; Maybe, additional bar for ties, pos. 6. Disadvantage - the "legs" of the hanger get underfoot. In an attempt to get rid of it, hangers were invented - frames on a stand, pos. 7, but generally speaking, they fell even more than the orderly ones hung up. Another option is a hanger-frame without legs, leaning against the wall; we will remember this one. There are also folding frame hangers, but in everyday life they have almost no advantages.

If in the hallway with a place is generally tight, then a wall hanger is still more suitable. Simple wall hanger-sconce, pos. 1 in Fig., is as compact as possible, but not at all more convenient than the order, except that it does not fall from the next jacket to one side. Hanger-shelf, pos. 2 won't fall off if it's attached properly, and neither will hats/caps, but the wall and clothes rub against each other.

Types of wall hangers

Wall hanger panel, pos. 3, saves the wall, but not the clothes. Most of all, leather things wear out on such hangers. Tanners jokingly advise: how, they say, to distinguish a sheepskin coat from full grain leather from it from reverse? The first, with everyday use of a hanger-panel, loses its appearance in 2 winters, and the second - in half a winter. Given the cost of genuine leather products, this is no good. Therefore, hangers-panels on the wall for expensive things are often supplied upholstered, pos. 4. As for wall hangers with an openwork shield, pos. 5, then in this case its meaning is only decorative: it does not protect either things or walls.

Floor hangers with chest and bench

There are also floor hangers-panels with a stand, for example. in the form of a cabinet, chest or chest, pos. 1 in fig. on right. This is not the best option: someone will once put something on the lid, and with the clothes removed from the hanger it will be whisked to the floor. Much more practical are floor hangers-panels with a bench, pos. 2. The flower under the seat is a matter of taste of the owners, if only he survives there, but the shoe box or chest for accessories to care for her in the banquette drawer is the place.

Clothes and keys

Regarding hangers-panels, an amateur master appears additional opportunity, namely: to provide such a sidewall at the farthest from front door edge. Perhaps not reaching the bottom, with a bevel or notch. The factory ones do not do this: the hanger should be designed for clothes sticking out from the side. One sidewall almost does not interfere with this, but it is not known how the hanger will stand with the buyer, and it is unprofitable to make right and left hangers.

What gives such an addition? Place for the housekeeper, invisible from the threshold. In the same place, on the side, there can be a dressing table or cabinet, but the main thing is that the master's keys will not catch the eye of a random visitor, and they are in plain sight, according to criminologists, a serious factor in spontaneous illegal actions, without which, i.e. temptation, the visit of a not entirely trustworthy subject would have done well both for the owners and for him. You can, of course, make a key holder luxuriously designed and with a secret lock, but this is a lot of work and material costs. And so - a simple plank with hooks will do. Or just hooks screwed to the sidewall outside of the stowage section.

We will assume that suitable design already selected, and let's get down to how to make a hanger. Preferably wooden: the material is noble, natural, easy to process. Let's not forget other versions; more convenient in some cases. Let's start with floor hangers as the most functional.

floor standing

Lovers of crafting from the heart, having a milling tool for wood, can immediately take up the floor frame hanger with legs. Made from fine-grained wood hardwood(oak, beech, hornbeam, walnut, birch), it looks chic, and it will take only 360 mm of the floor in width.

A suit hanger works well as a prototype, you just need to make it higher and move the trouser bar up so that you can hang coat hangers on it. Instead of a tie rod and handles, a shelf can be installed, and a shoe shelf is mounted below. Drawings of such a hanger are shown in Fig.:

Drawings of a wooden floor hanger

With the indicated other dimensions, the structural and overall width (dimensions 430 and 460 respectively) can be increased by 1-1.4 m without compromising strength and stability, i.e. the hanger will be already a family width up to more than 1.8 m.

About hooks and trempels

Bags, umbrellas, scarves are also left on the hanger, and a bachelor can also have a skirt with lingerie there. Sometimes life is life. It is also more convenient to hang clothes on hooks for a short time. Therefore, in frame hangers, sometimes runner hooks are put on the main bar (the former trouser bar in Fig; height 1360). They or hangers, depending on the need, are shifted to the side in a crowd. But the hook-runners under the fingers turn out at the most inopportune moment. In a hanger of this design and similar ones, the problem is solved simply: the main bar is for hangers, and fixed hooks are attached to the top board.

Pipes and profiles

Original hangers are obtained from round or shaped metal or plastic pipes, see fig. However, despite all the design tricks, their organic vices do not disappear anywhere. The same as the orderly hung. But high labor intensity is added: in order to hide the connecting nodes, you have to strain both your arms and your head.

Pipe hangers

It is better to make a square base of a floor lamp hanger from pipes. With the same withdrawn floor area, the distance between the support points increases by 1.4 times. If the base is still heavier, then the hanger up to 1.7 m high turns into a full-fledged hanger. Most suitable sewer pipes 60 mm.

A short master class in pictures on making the base of a floor hanger from pipes is shown on the next. rice. Pipe sections - 150-300 mm each, depending on how much floor can be given to the hanger. In addition to them, you will need 3 straight tees, 4 right angles and 4 plugs. Connections - on glue for propylene or PVC, depending on the pipe material. Weighting - sand or small gravel.

Making the base of the hanger from pipes

One of the comments on the original design begins with a question like this: "Why couldn't you just solder?". Judging by the fact that later in the same comment, 90 angles with a clear claim to professionalism are called bends (plumbing bends are oblique tees), another 2-3 and the same number of exclamation points suggest themselves to the question mark.

Nevertheless, the author of the product, albeit not knowing plumbing terminology, solved the problem in a completely engineering way. The hanger does not need tight joints, and a tube of glue will cost much cheaper than renting a soldering iron for propylene. Which, moreover, you need to learn how to use, spoiling a fraction of the material. For greater reliability, you can reinforce the connections with phosphated (black) self-tapping screws: on black, their heads are not visible, and the strength of the hanger will not decrease.

Note: the pommel in the original design is also made of pipes, but, frankly, its design is not the same ... It would be better to drill inclined holes in the rack and insert some strong pins into them using the same glue; wooden, metal.

simple frame

Scheme simple floor and wall hanger from pipes

A frame hanger made of pipes can be without legs, just leaning against the wall with an inclination. However, its slope must be negative. There must be at least 350 mm between the wall and the clothes on the hangers. If the slope of the frame is positive (the upper crossbar is adjacent to the wall), then the lower one will "leave" from the plinth by 500-600 mm. In a small hallway, this is a serious inconvenience. In addition, they will either cling to the lower crossbar with their feet and it will beat the floor, or it will have to be attached to the floor, and this is really bad: any violation of the flooring is fraught with complex and expensive emergency repairs. Have you seen furniture for sale that needs to be screwed to the floor? Is that a special purpose, for example. rack. And then, they also try to get by with fastenings to the walls and, in extreme cases, to the ceiling.

A diagram of a frame hanger with a negative slope of pipes is shown in fig. The materials are the same: line segments sewer pipes 60 mm, 90 angles and straight tees. withdrawn usable area gender is nil. At the bottom there can be a shoe rack or a banquette. For fastening to the wall, in order not to drill a lot and do without expensive collet anchors, it is better to take a couple more tees: with their help, the holding beams - extensions are attached to the wall with a pair of self-tapping screws in dowels each.

wall

Simple hangers-panels do not require special analysis. How to make a wooden wall hanger, see for example. video.

Here we recall, firstly, the sconce hanger. Foldable, it can be very useful if a large company has gathered or the kids have returned from the yard at least squeeze it.

An example of such a structure is shown on the right in Fig. However, its creators were clearly guided by the principle: “Consumption is the basis of turnover Money". The outer (folded) side of the flap bar is inactive and a locking mechanism is needed. And a separate hanger for every day.

Compact folding wall hanger

Meanwhile, folding wall hangers have been known since ancient egypt. In the local climate, outerwear was worn occasionally, in bad weather, but after wearing it, it was necessary to dry it. There was no point in keeping a separate hanger for this in the regions where it rains and cold once a year, not every year, so they came up with the one on the right in Fig.

When folded, the compact wall hanger of the Egyptians was fixed with a cypress stick. Now, of course, you can put a ball retainer or just a hook. The main thing is that the hook hooks should be in 3/4 of the circle, then nothing will fall off them even with the bar folded back. And without need, the whole hanger looks like just a stick on the wall; you can hang bags, umbrellas, keys on hooks.

More about hooks

The original wooden hanger can be made without metal at all, not counting the fasteners. Do not rush to throw away the New Year's pine or Christmas tree (only the blanks will need to be turned upside down):

Video: original do-it-yourself wooden hanger

Best of all, such a hanger will look in the country, in a bar or frame house. Depending on the interior design - and in a city apartment. She will go to the bathhouse perfectly: the touch of steamed skin on metal is unpleasant, and to some extent even traumatic.

Hangers in the nursery

Probably, all children scatter wearable things. There is no need to especially scold them for this: without knowing chaos within reasonable limits, you will not accustom yourself to order. Who is against - answer Friday's question to Robinson Crusoe: "Why doesn't God kill the devil?"

However, teaching children to handle things properly is necessary. Only a children's hanger, so as not to cause obvious psychological rejection, should look somewhat disordered. It is also highly desirable that the child associates it with a favorite game or hobby. Examples of wall hangers in the nursery of the "game / hobby" type are given in pos. 1 and 2 fig.

Baby hangers

A universal method of this kind is a tree hanger, pos. 3. In the contour of a tree, as in any fractal structure, order and chaos interact and complement each other, creating a harmonious whole. Do not forget to just make the tree stronger, for example. from plywood from 12 mm, and, as it should, with a step of no more than 250-300 mm, attach to the wall with self-tapping screws from 6 mm in propylene dowels. A tree, after all, to climb on it.

Floor hangers in the nursery are undesirable for the same reason: well, they will climb anyway and crash. Therefore, if you already want a floor hanger in the nursery, you need to make one that you can’t fit on, which can be seen in pos. 4 and 5.

About cutting plywood

In any case, parents face problems that small ones don’t care about yet: material consumption and labor intensity. It is no longer easy to draw a complex contour along a grid on a solid sheet of plywood, then it must be accurately cut out, which is even more difficult. And in the end it turns out that 60% or 80% of the material went to waste, no longer suitable for anything. It is necessary, on the contrary, to make a children's tree hanger from waste. Or cut a denser whole sheet.

Assembling parts of a plywood hanger-tree

The method for this has long been known: element-by-element cutting and assembly. If the tree is plywood, for full strength finished product each part is recruited from 2 layers, leaving resp. folds and grooves, see fig. Fragments of blanks are assembled on PVA glue, wood glue or Express (liquid nails). If the assembly is on PVA, the fragments must be additionally fastened with small nails with a snake in increments of 100-150 mm with an indent from the edges of 30-40 mm.

They assemble a tree hanger on the same adhesives, but now each connection must be fastened with self-tapping wood screws with an envelope. Then the gaps and fastener heads (they must be drowned during assembly) are rubbed with putty from sawdust of the same plywood on PVA. Such a tree, even without painting, only under varnish, will look solid.

Note: just in case, we recall - all wooden details before assembly, any wooden hanger must be sanded with fine sandpaper and treated with a water-polymer emulsion or PVA diluted with water three to five times. After impregnation before further work make a technological break until the part is completely dry (1-3 days, depending on its size).

And one last thing about hooks

In the illustrations above, you most likely noticed curved wooden hooks and other hanger details. It is quite possible to make them at home. In production, dense, small-layer, defect-free wood or waterproof birch plywood (grade BS) is bent heated with steaming or dry, but for homework these methods are too complicated. Only bamboo is more or less simply steamed: the workpiece is boiled for half an hour or an hour in rapidly boiling water, after which it is bent by hand. In case of bending according to the template, the workpiece must be fastened to it quickly, before it has cooled down, with a wide cotton braid or a strip of natural tarpaulin.

Wood rasp

At home, it is easier to cut blanks of the required configuration from a sheet of plywood (any) or MDF desired thickness or, twice or four times more in number, from a thin sheet material to dial then how much is required in thickness. Cut with a finishing allowance of approx. 1 mm. The cut blanks are tightly pulled together in a package in a carpenter's vice or in a locksmith's through gaskets made of thick plywood and processed with a rasp on wood to size, and then with a clean sandpaper. One rasp is enough, with flat and semicircular working surfaces, see fig.

The workpieces are assembled into parts in the manner described above. The end surfaces, if you need to hide the layered structure of plywood, are sealed with strips of self-adhesive film under the tree. After that, the part is varnished twice or thrice. acrylic varnish on water based; nitrolac can ruin the self-adhesive. Edge (edge) plastic furniture edge not worth it: you need to accurately select the groove for the edge anchor, which requires a milling machine, but on curved surfaces of large curvature and short length, the edge still does not hold well. And the details pasted over with self-adhesive, under varnish, from solid wood, even the master cabinetmaker will not immediately distinguish.

These factors are especially felt if a floor hanger fits in the hallway. In addition, it can also serve as a dryer if its design is frame, see below, because. On such hangers, it is convenient to hang clothes on hangers, and the hanger itself moves away from the wall. If the house managed to shield the dressing room, then the floor hanger is the best option. The cost of floor hangers is significantly higher than wall hangers, but there is nothing in the design that would not allow you to make a floor hanger yourself.

On the floor or on the wall?

It has already been said enough to make a choice, as long as there is enough floor space. However, let's finally compare how attractive a hanger is in a floor-type hallway:

Clothes hung on hangers dry faster, do not stretch; the collar and lining are not torn.
On a hanger approx. 1.5 m fits a seasonal set of clothes for the whole family, which will save on the closet and the area under it.
A shoe rack is naturally attached to the floor hanger, which simplifies the work of equipping the hallway and saves its area.
With correctly calculated dimensions of the hanger, neither the wall from the clothes nor the clothes against the wall are damaged.
The mobility of the hanger does not interfere with the rearrangement of furniture; after moving the hanger, it is not necessary to seal the mounting holes in the wall.

Types of floor hangers

The best option is the same theatrical wardrobe frame hanger, pos. 5. In the version for residential premises, it is supplemented with shelves for hats, shoes and gloves / scarves; perhaps an additional tie rod, pos. 6. Disadvantage - the "legs" of the hanger get underfoot. In an attempt to get rid of it, hangers were invented - frames on a stand, pos. 7, but generally speaking, they fell even more than the orderly ones hung up. Another option is a hanger-frame without legs, leaning against the wall; we will remember this one. There are also folding frame hangers, but in everyday life they have almost no advantages.

Types of wall hangers

Wall hanger panel, pos. 3, saves the wall, but not the clothes. Most of all, leather things wear out on such hangers. Tanners jokingly advise: how, they say, to distinguish a sheepskin coat from full grain leather from it from reverse? The first, with everyday use of a hanger-panel, loses its appearance in 2 winters, and the second - in half a winter. Given the cost of genuine leather products, this is no good. Therefore, hangers-panels on the wall for expensive things are often supplied with soft upholstery, pos. 4. As for wall hangers with an openwork shield, pos. 5, then in this case its meaning is only decorative: it does not protect either things or walls.

Floor hangers with chest and bench

Clothes and keys

Regarding hangers-panels, the amateur master has an additional opportunity, namely: to provide such a sidewall on the edge farthest from the front door. Perhaps not reaching the bottom, with a bevel or notch. The factory ones do not do this: the hanger should be designed for clothes sticking out from the side. One sidewall almost does not interfere with this, but it is not known how the hanger will stand with the buyer, and it is unprofitable to make right and left hangers.

What gives such an addition? Place for the housekeeper, invisible from the threshold. In the same place, on the side, there can be a dressing table or cabinet, but the main thing is that the master's keys will not catch the eye of a casual visitor, and they are in sight, according to criminologists, a serious factor in spontaneous illegal actions, without which, i.e. temptation, the visit of a not entirely trustworthy subject would have done well both for the owners and for him. You can, of course, make a key holder luxuriously designed and with a secret lock, but this is a lot of work and material costs. And so - a simple plank with hooks will do. Or just hooks screwed to the sidewall outside of the stowage section.

We will assume that a suitable design has already been selected, and let's take a look at how to make a hanger. Preferably wooden: the material is noble, natural, easy to process. Let's not forget other versions; more convenient in some cases. Let's start with floor hangers as the most functional.

floor standing

Lovers of crafting from the heart, having a milling tool for wood, can immediately take up the floor frame hanger with legs. Made of small-layer hardwood (oak, beech, hornbeam, walnut, birch), it looks chic, and it will take only 360 mm of the floor in width.

Drawings of a wooden floor hanger

About hooks and trempels

Pipes and profiles

Pipe hangers

Making the base of the hanger from pipes

simple frame

Scheme of a simple floor-wall pipe hanger

A diagram of a frame hanger with a negative slope of pipes is shown in fig. The materials are the same: 60 mm straight sewer pipes, 90 angles and straight tees. Withdrawn usable floor area - zero. At the bottom there can be a shoe rack or a banquette. For fastening to the wall, in order not to drill a lot and do without expensive collet anchors, it is better to take a couple more tees: with their help, the holding beams - extensions are attached to the wall with a pair of self-tapping screws in dowels each.

wall

Simple hangers-panels do not require special analysis. How to make a wooden wall hanger, see for example. video.

Video: do-it-yourself wall hanger made of wood

Here we recall, firstly, the sconce hanger. Foldable, it can be very useful if a large company has gathered or the kids have returned from the yard at least squeeze it.

An example of such a structure is shown on the right in Fig. However, its creators were clearly guided by the principle: "Consumption is the basis of cash flow." The outer (folded) side of the flap bar is inactive and a locking mechanism is needed. And a separate hanger for every day.

Compact folding wall hanger

Meanwhile, folding wall hangers have been known since ancient Egypt. In the local climate, outerwear was worn occasionally, in bad weather, but after wearing it, it was necessary to dry it. There was no point in keeping a separate hanger for this in the regions where it rains and cold once a year, not every year, so they came up with the one on the right in Fig.

More about hooks

Video: original do-it-yourself wooden hanger

Best of all, such a hanger will look in the country, in a timber or frame house. Depending on the interior design - and in a city apartment. She will go to the bathhouse perfectly: the touch of steamed skin on metal is unpleasant, and to some extent even traumatic.

Hangers in the nursery

Baby hangers

About cutting plywood

Assembling parts of a plywood hanger-tree

The method for this has long been known: element-by-element cutting and assembly. If the tree is plywood, for the full strength of the finished product, each part is recruited from 2 layers, leaving resp. folds and grooves, see fig. Fragments of blanks are assembled on PVA glue, wood glue or Express (liquid nails). If the assembly is on PVA, the fragments must be additionally fastened with small nails with a snake in increments of 100-150 mm with an indent from the edges of 30-40 mm.

Note: just in case, we recall that before assembly, all the wooden parts of any wooden hanger must be sanded with small-sized sandpaper and treated with a water-polymer emulsion or PVA diluted with water three to five times. After impregnation, before further work, a technological break is made until the part is completely dry (1-3 days, depending on its size).

And one last thing about hooks

In the illustrations above, you most likely noticed curved wooden hooks and other hanger details. It is quite possible to make them at home. In production, dense, small-layer, defect-free wood or waterproof birch plywood (BS grade) is bent heated with steaming or dry, but these methods are too complicated for homework. Only bamboo is more or less simply steamed: the workpiece is boiled for half an hour or an hour in rapidly boiling water, after which it is bent by hand. In case of bending according to the template, the workpiece must be fastened to it quickly, before it has cooled down, with a wide cotton braid or a strip of natural tarpaulin.

Wood rasp

At home, it is easier to cut blanks of the required configuration from a sheet of plywood (any) or MDF of the desired thickness, or, twice or four times as many in quantity, from thin sheet material, in order to then gain as much as required in thickness. Cut with a finishing allowance of approx. 1 mm. The cut blanks are tightly pulled together in a package in a carpenter's vice or in a locksmith's through gaskets made of thick plywood and processed with a rasp on wood to size, and then with a clean sandpaper. One rasp is enough, with flat and semicircular working surfaces, see fig.

The workpieces are assembled into parts in the manner described above. The end surfaces, if you need to hide the layered structure of plywood, are sealed with strips of self-adhesive film under the tree. After that, the part is varnished twice or thrice with water-based acrylic varnish; nitrolac can ruin the self-adhesive. It is not worth edging (edging) with a plastic furniture edge: you need to accurately select the groove for the edge anchor, which requires a milling machine, but on curved surfaces of large curvature and short length, the edge still does not hold well. And the details pasted over with self-adhesive, under varnish, from solid wood, even the master cabinetmaker will not immediately distinguish.

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