The final stage of bathroom renovation is the installation and fastening of the toilet. This is a responsible task, since the toilet is not only an interior decoration, but also a functional device.
Often, even if the repair is done on your own, a craftsman is invited to carry out this work, but if you have the desire and initial skills of a builder, you can install and fasten the toilet to the floor yourself. Of course, we must approach the issue with all responsibility and prepare.
Types and features of installing toilets
There are many models of toilets, which differ in a number of parameters. Different models have different design, provide varying degrees of comfort, differ in installation method. When choosing a mounting method, it is important to consider the main characteristics of the device.
The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a toilet is the layout. There are three popular toilet designs.
The separate type differs in that the tank is distant from the bowl at a considerable distance. This guarantees powerful pressure, but also loud noise. The installation is quite complicated, since it requires separately mounting the bowl and tank. The scheme is outdated and practically not used.
Note! The compact system is by far the most common. It is distinguished by simplicity and functionality. The tank is simply placed on the bowl, which ensures ease of use and ease of installation.
Monoblocks have similar characteristics. IN in this case the cistern and the toilet are one whole. Such a system is easy to install; you can use dowels and glue. Installation is extremely simple; you just need to attach the toilet to the floor and supply water to the tank.
The list of materials from which toilets are made is wide. When choosing a method of operation, it is worth considering this characteristic of the device. Most often you can find:
- faience;
- porcelain;
- reinforced acrylic;
- cast iron;
- steel.
You can often see bowls made of exotic materials, stone or even glass. To install such products, you must follow the manufacturer’s recommendations, or it is better not to take risks and call a specialist.
Bowls made of cast iron and steel are most suitable for installation in public places; for the home, choose one of the first three varieties. Earthenware, porcelain and acrylic can be attached using almost any known method.
Fastening with dowels or anchor bolts
This method Suitable only for those models that have mounting holes in the base of the bowl. These are “ears” with holes into which dowels are screwed, or holes in the wall intended for hidden fastening using corners.
Before starting work, you need to prepare the tool. You only need a little:
- roulette;
- marker or pencil;
- electric drill and concrete drills;
- core and hammer.
You also need fasteners for the toilet (usually included in the delivery package), a wrench or a screwdriver (depending on the shape of the dowel head or bolt).
Step 1: fitting and marking
As you might guess, you need to start by choosing a location. There are unlikely to be any problems with this; the toilet is not a room where you can get wild. It’s better to try it on according to a sample, because a toilet is brought into the room. Costs once again measure the distance to the drain and the distances from the walls, the device should look good, stand securely, not wobble, there should be enough space between the wall and the side.
Mark up immediately. The easiest way is to outline the contours of the base of the bowl with a marker, separately marking the attachment points.
Step 2: Drilling
The most important thing is to drill the floor covering. Tiles require special care. Before starting work, use a core to mark the holes; this will prevent the drill from jumping off and ruining the repair. Drill tiles at low speed.
The hole should be a few millimeters deeper than the dowel used, and the included plastic insert should fit snugly into it. The criteria for the anchor bolt are the same; it should fit into the hole fairly easily, but not dangle.
Step 3: Installation
Before putting the bowl back in place, you need to remove any traces of drilling. Be sure to remove concrete chips and tile fragments. Insert into the prepared holes plastic inserts dowels; if necessary, they are finished off with light blows of a hammer through a block spacer. They put the toilet back in place. You can screw it on, but it is important not to forget the rubber or nylon washers, they will protect the material of the bowl.
In the same way, toilets are installed that are not vertically mounted, but laterally mounted. To fix them, special corner fasteners are used, but the sequence of actions does not change.
Glue installation
The method of installing a toilet using adhesives is not inferior to the previous one in popularity, which is not surprising, because it provides the proper result and has a number of advantages. The use of glue is:
- clean installation without noise and dust;
- ease of operation, even a beginner can handle it;
- the method allows you to fix a toilet bowl made of any material;
- absolute safety, the floor is guaranteed not to be damaged;
- reliability due to the use of modern materials.
The only one significant drawback This method is that you can use the toilet only after the glue has completely hardened, and this can take up to a day or more.
This installation method requires practically no tools; you just need to stock up on a tape measure and a marking pencil and a small spatula to remove excess adhesive. Of course, you can't do without glue. The choice of a specific brand depends on the wishes of the owner; we can recommend a time-tested epoxy resin.
Step 1: fitting and marking
This stage is not much different from that described above, the only thing is that you don’t need to mark the holes, there simply won’t be any. It is enough to place the toilet in the chosen place, make sure that its location meets your own wishes, measure the distances to the walls using a tape measure and trace the outline of the base with a pencil or marker.
Step 2: surface preparation
One of the main conditions for the reliability of an adhesive connection is smooth and clean mating surfaces. You need to start from the base of the bowl. Using fine-grained sandpaper, level the surface.
Next they move to the floor. The tiles are degreased with ammonia and then wiped dry with a napkin. In some cases, it is advisable to sand the floor covering, but this must be done with all possible care.
Step 3: Gluing
An adhesive or sealant is applied to the edge of the toilet base. It is important to apply exactly as much as needed. If there is too little glue, it will not be possible to achieve proper reliability, otherwise excess may spoil the appearance of a fresh repair.
The prepared toilet is lifted and transported to the installation site. Here it is better to work with an assistant; he will help you navigate and place the device exactly in the chosen place.
You should immediately spray the floor around the bowl with soapy water; this will make it easier to remove excess adhesive and ensure the cleanliness of the room. Use a narrow spatula to remove any glue drips and leave the toilet until the seam has completely hardened. During drying, it is advisable not only not to use the device, but also not to touch it.
Installation on taffeta
This method is most suitable for installing a toilet in a bathroom wooden house. Its special feature is a wooden lining (taffeta), on which the plumbing fixture is installed. The method is distinguished by ease of operation and availability of the materials used.
Important! First, cut out the lining itself. For this purpose it is used durable wood, the dimensions are easiest to mark using the sample. The finished board is lightly sanded and impregnated with drying oil.
The next step will be to create anchors and clamps that will prevent the board from moving. Sufficient reliability will be ensured by nails driven into the board at different angles; for greater reliability, you can use anchor bolts.
A recess is left in the screed at the installation site. Pour the solution into it. Immediately, without allowing the concrete to harden, install the taffeta with the nails down. Press in such a way that the board is flush with the floor. Allow the screed to dry.
After the solution has hardened, all that remains is to screw the toilet using ordinary screws, under the heads of which you must place rubber or nylon gaskets. That's it, you can connect the drain to the sewer and supply water to the tank.
Installing a toilet in a screed
Previously, the most common way to attach a toilet to the floor was to install it on cement. The essence of the method is simple: when pouring the floor, a recess was left in which the base of the bowl was placed. The toilet was installed, leveled and filled with mortar.
The advantages of this method include the ease of operation and stability of the device; it does not need to be further strengthened, but careful dismantling of such a toilet is impossible, it can only be broken.
Attaching a toilet to the floor is a responsible process that requires not so much knowledge and experience as accuracy and diligence. You don’t have to be a major specialist to get the job done, you just need to be patient and choose the fastening method according to your own abilities. A little effort - and the toilet is in place, the device works, and money is saved on installation.
Nowadays there are three main methods of fixing a toilet. They differ in fastening elements (dowels, glue, screws), as well as in the base or material from which the floor in the bathroom is made. The time that will pass from the moment the work is completed to the start of using the toilet will also differ. We will try to consider these methods of attaching a toilet and the nuances that are worth considering.
Methods for attaching a toilet to the floor
Main methods:
- Fastening with dowels.
- Installation on adhesive based.
- Installation using taffeta.
Even before purchasing, you should also decide how to secure the toilet to the floor. Let's consider these methods.
Fastening with dowels
This fastening method is the most common. The base for this mounting is a concrete floor. The floor can also be tiled that can be drilled.
The underlying surface must be level enough so that the toilet can be mounted without distortions, and in the future the drainage system will work normally.
How to properly install and secure a toilet
Before proceeding with installation, you need to make sure that the connection between the toilet and the sewer pipes allows it to be mounted in the required location. If flexible corrugation is used, there will be no problems. If a rigid pipe or elbow is used, then it is necessary to first put them in the working position and, if necessary, adjust them to size by cutting off the excess. This adjustment is made for any mounting method.
When purchasing, make sure that it comes with bolts for attaching the toilet. Otherwise, you will need to purchase the kit yourself.
Make sure that the diameter of the dowels and bolts matches the hole in the base of the toilet. The bolts must be equipped with a rubber gasket under its head.
To secure the toilet to tiled floor, it is installed in the required position and future holes are marked. The toilet is removed, then using a drill in normal drilling mode, holes with the diameter indicated on the dowel are drilled to a depth of at least the length of the dowel .
It is necessary to drill holes in concrete (not in tiles) at a slight angle with the drill going inward, since the shelf on the toilet leg, by which it will be pulled, also has a certain slope.
- Drilling tiles. To drill tiles, drills with special tips for tiles are used. Do not use drills for impact drill or a hammer drill. Once the tiles have been drilled, drilling into the concrete can be continued using the hammer drill mode with a concrete drill bit. If the drilling depth is large, it is necessary to allow the drill to cool.
- Drilling porcelain stoneware. To drill porcelain tiles, use porcelain tile bits. Because small diameter crowns do not have a center drill, a jig is used to hold the crown in place. It is made from a piece of board by drilling a hole in it with a diameter corresponding to the crown. The jig is placed over the marked hole, a drill with a crown is inserted and a small recess is drilled. After this, there is no longer a need for a conductor.
- Cooling of the crown is carried out by pouring a small amount of water directly onto the drilled hole and around the future hole.
When the holes are ready, dowels are inserted into them, the toilet is placed on top and bolted to the floor.
Some experts advise using a rubber gasket between the tiles and the toilet. It will serve as a kind of damper, which will ensure a more uniform fit of the toilet to the tile and close any gaps. This gasket must be cut exactly to the shape of the mounting surface.
You can also use clear caulk to seal gaps. It is pre-applied to bottom part toilet bowl, or they are passed along the rim after installation.
To avoid damage to the ceramic coating on the toilet, a rubber gasket with a diameter of at least the head must be placed under the head of the bolt. Also, the bolt should be screwed tightly, but without excessive force. It's ceramic, not metal, and it's fragile.
Now all that remains is (if necessary) to ensure the tightness of the outlet element at the junction with the toilet and reception area sewer pipe crimp rings, connect the water supply, adjust the drain and the product can be used.
How to fix a toilet with side holes
This is a variation of the first method. However, the side attachment of the toilet to the floor is different. The fasteners themselves will be located inside the toilet mounting leg. For them, holes are also marked on the floor, and the fasteners are first screwed on. Then the toilet is installed on top of them and fixed to the fasteners through the side holes. This type of fastening is a little more complicated, but has a more aesthetic appearance.
If the toilet is installed before laying the tiles (which is undesirable), then it is necessary to provide a substrate on which it will be raised to the future floor level. Subsequently, this will make it easier to maintain and replace the toilet without damaging the floor covering.
Installing a toilet on an adhesive base
When drilling the floor in the place where the toilet is installed is unacceptable, then the only method of fastening is adhesive-based installation. If you were thinking about how to fix the toilet so that it does not wobble, then this method will probably be the most suitable.
Begin by cleaning the floor and base of the toilet from dust, dirt, grease and other substances that prevent adhesion. After which the toilet is installed in its future location and its shape is outlined with a marker.
The tile in the place of gluing must first be treated with rough sandpaper or other tool to roughen the surface. This will significantly enhance the adhesion (gluing) of the adhesive to the tile.
After this, dust is removed from the surfaces to be glued, and they are degreased with a solvent or acetone. A layer of special epoxy-based adhesive is applied along the line outlined on the floor. The thickness of the glue should be at least four millimeters. In order not to bother yourself with preparation, it will be much easier to buy it cooked.
Carefully install the toilet on top of the applied glue, aligning the toilet outlet with the sewer pipe. We press the toilet, leveling the seating surface.
Now it must be left alone for at least 12 hours until the glue hardens. At this time, it is advisable not to even touch it. After hardening, the necessary connections are made.
The toilet is ready for use.
Installation using taffeta
If your bathroom has wooden floors and the boards are thin, you will need to think about how to secure the toilet to prevent it from wobbling.
Methods for attaching the toilet using taffeta are designed to solve this problem. These methods involve creating some kind of void in the floor in the shape of the mounting surface of the toilet with a recess of 5 - 7 centimeters. It will fill up cement mortar to the depth from the floor level minus the thickness of the taffeta.
Taffeta is made from hard rocks wood (oak, acacia). A board 28 - 32 millimeters thick is taken and a shape is cut out of it that matches the shape of the toilet sole. This form must be treated generously with drying oil to avoid wetting and swelling. Nails or anchors are placed at the bottom of this form in a checkerboard pattern. They should protrude beyond the board by 2 - 3 centimeters.
We produce mortar or concrete mixture. Depending on the required thickness of the solution, its strength should be selected. For a thickness of 3–5 centimeters, a proportion of 400 grade cement to 1/4 sand will be sufficient. As the thickness of the mortar increases, its strength should decrease and the number of driven nails should increase.
If possible, it is better to prepare a concrete mixture using crushed stone of fraction 5 - 10 with volumetric proportions of cement/sand/crushed stone - 1/3/3. The result will be sanded concrete that will not crack if the layer is thick, but will be flexible enough to embed taffeta into it.
Then the taffeta is immersed in a solution poured into the recess and lowered with vibrating movements to the same level as the floor. The excess solution should spread to the sides. If this is not possible, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of removing excess solution. To do this, the recess in the floor should be slightly wider than the taffeta, and the solution should have sufficient plasticity. This is achieved by adding a plasticizer, but not water.
Now you need to let the solution set. Although it is recommended to wait 12 hours, it is advisable to increase this time if no reaction accelerators were added to the solution. Wait at least a day. After all, the time for complete reaction of cement without additives is 28 days.
After the solution has set, you can install the toilet. It is secured with long screws of the appropriate diameter. Don't forget to place rubber gaskets under the screw heads.
Installing a toilet on a tiled floor can be done in several ways, depending on the design plumbing fixture. Before starting installation, you should carefully study the instructions and prepare necessary tools and carry out preparatory work.
In most cases, you can carry out the procedure yourself without the help of specialist plumbers.
After completion of the installation work, water supply is also carried out. It is also important to follow a certain algorithm of actions.
Preparation for installation work
Preparatory stage consists of the following steps:
- choice suitable place placement of plumbing fixtures in the toilet, creation of markings;
- sewer and water supply outlet. The ends of the pipes should be approximately 13-16 cm from the surface so that the device can be connected to communications;
- if a room is being renovated, you must first put tiles, and then proceed to install the plumbing. Otherwise, you will need to cut the required pedestal shape from the floor tiles.
After preparation has been completed, you need to prepare the necessary tools.
Tools and materials
To install on tile floors, you will need the following tools:
- a marker, pencil or chalk to mark the outline of the base on the tile or floor;
- a drill designed for ceramics and a drill for plastic dowels;
- product - sealant to ensure waterproofing;
- standard set of screwdrivers;
- drill or hammer drill;
- core for cleaning the top layer of tiles;
- wrench and adjustable wrench;
- bolts for attaching the toilet to the floor;
- pliers;
- grinding machine with diamond wheel;
- connecting hose;
- tap;
- an adhesive (for example, liquid nails), if you plan to use method No. 3 to attach plumbing fixtures to a heated tiled floor;
- plastic dowels;
- plastic spacers for bolts;
- spatula to remove any remaining sealant or adhesive.
Methods of fixing to a tiled floor
There are several options for installation, which differ in labor intensity and technology, they depend on the model of the plumbing fixture. It should be noted that all the procedures described below are not very complicated, but to carry them out correctly, it is imperative to follow the exact instructions.
To perform the last method, which involves adhesive fastening toilet, it is advisable to have at least a little experience in repair. If you have no experience, you can first practice on a small part of the tile.
If the tiles on the bathroom floor are very expensive, then it is advisable to entrust the installation of the toilet to specialists. Otherwise, in the process of work, you may accidentally damage the floor covering.
Types of toilet sink mounting and corresponding installation method:
- Method No. 1 – used when vertical arrangement fastening elements, dowels are used in the process;
- Method No. 2 - when placing the fasteners on the side, the toilet is fastened to the floor with corner brackets;
- Method No. 3 – use of an adhesive in the presence of a system of heated floors and communications under the floor covering.
Method No. 1 - with vertical arrangement of fasteners
This method of installing a plumbing fixture on a tile floor is the least labor intensive. It is suitable for models that have ready-made mounting holes at the bottom. Installation instructions:
- Determined optimal place to place a plumbing fixture, the distance from the drain to the entrance to the sewer must be taken into account. This length will be required when selecting a corrugated pipe connecting the toilet to the sewer.
- The contours of the selected installation location should be marked on the tile with a marker or chalk, and the location of the factory holes for fastening to the floor should also be marked. It is important that the product is installed strictly perpendicular to the floor, because otherwise, the risk of slight displacement of the toilet during fastening increases.
- At those points that were marked on the tile in the previous step, use a core to knock down the tile covering to prevent the tool from accidentally slipping while performing the procedure. It is advisable to moisten the area where the stuffing will take place, this will help make the work more accurate.
- After the holes for the fasteners have been made with a drill, the plumbing is installed. If there are no problems and the location is satisfactory, the toilet is removed and a special sealant is applied along the marked contour. The use of such a product will avoid the formation of water puddles under the toilet. The fastening holes must also be filled with sealants to make the fastening more dense and reliable, as well as to ensure waterproofing of the concrete screed.
- The plumbing fixtures are being installed along the contour. Then the fasteners are carefully tightened so as not to displace the product. The sealant, which will certainly be squeezed out under the weight of the toilet, must be removed immediately with a spatula.
- The sealant strip is decorated by grouting.
- And corrugated pipe, plumbing is connected to sewer system and cold water supply pipeline.
Method No. 2 – for side placement, fastening to the floor with corner brackets
This method involves installing plumbing fixtures in which the fastening components are hidden. This procedure is more complicated than the previous one, since it should be performed only in accordance with a clear algorithm of actions. The main difference is the location of the sewer drain as close as possible to the toilet.
Instructions for attaching the toilet to the floor:
- Unlike the previous method, in this option First of all, it is recommended to carry out all pipe laying work. It is best if this is done before laying the tiles as flooring.
- The plumbing is installed without fastening; a contour is drawn on the floor and marks are placed showing the points of the fastening elements.
- The lower component of the toilet (so-called " hidden mount") is mounted on the floor. Plumbing fixtures are fixed using corner brackets. The fasteners must be wrapped one at a time, not forgetting to constantly monitor compliance with the contour. This will allow for rigid installation and prevent even minimal movement of the plumbing fixture.
- The upper component of the product is installed into the already installed lower one, and then securely fixed through the ready-made side holes of the toilet. At the stage of connecting the sewer communication, adjustments can be made.
After complete installation of the product and checking the quality of installation, the elements used for fastening to the floor are closed with special decorative plugs (so that these parts do not stand out from the interior design). The procedure is of medium complexity and requires extreme care and accuracy.
Method number 3 - use sealant
Quite often in bathrooms a “warm floor” system is installed on electric or water based, so you cannot drill individual mounting holes. This can lead to significant disruption of functioning, because There is an increased risk of damage to cables or waterproofing.
In such a situation, the only way out is to use products based on construction adhesive. To attach the toilet to the floor on tiles, the following materials can be used: liquid nails, some silicone mixtures, resins.
Algorithm for installing a toilet on a tiled floor:
- Place the plumbing fixture and mark the outline of its base on the tile.
- The surface layer of the tile is carefully cleaned off using a diamond wheel or other similar tool. The resulting roughness will ensure reliable adhesion to the toilet base. A similar procedure is performed with the toilet.
- At a distance of 3-4 mm from the created contour, a layer of adhesive is applied so that the main part of it is preserved directly under the pedestal. Any substance squeezed out after installation must be immediately removed with a spatula. If this is not done, after hardening the adhesive can only be removed together with the ceramic tiles.
The procedure for attaching components to the toilet, connecting to the sewerage system and water supply
Connections to the water supply also vary in type, depending on the design of the toilet:
- in the presence of internal system For water supply connection, a flexible hose or a special copper tube is used. As a rule, when sold, such elements come complete with parts for fastening to the floor, but it is advisable to clarify this point with a consultant separately. Sometimes it happens that the tap thread and the thread on the copper tube, then you will need an adapter and sealing elements;
- at external system Water supply connection is the easiest. Usually, additional details not required.
Regardless of the method of connection to the water supply, all connections should be coated with special sealants for plumbing fixtures to ensure waterproofing and minimize the risk of leakage.
Common Mistakes
If the technician did not follow the algorithm when installing the toilet on the tile floor, the result may be improper functioning of the plumbing fixture, damaged waterproofing (leaks) and the spread of an unpleasant odor in the room.
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Common mistakes when installing on tiles:
- Uneven position of the toilet - to avoid this, it is important to use building level. The absence of the leveling step can lead to a violation of the waterproofing and damage to the plumbing.
- Insufficient treatment of joints with silicone-based sealants. The product should also be applied to the contour of the corrugation and pedestal of the toilet. The result of this error, most often, is the formation of puddles under the equipment or drain pipe.
- When renovating a bathroom in installed toilet sometimes some debris gets in. Before connecting the pipeline, it is important to check all components of the structure to ensure that there are no foreign objects. Otherwise, it may lead to a clogged toilet.
- Insufficient sealing of the tank valves or their damage can lead to tank leakage after a certain time.
Thus, you can install the toilet on the tile floor yourself. Depending on the design of the model, the appropriate installation method is determined.
After installation, a problem may occur; see common causes and methods for eliminating them.
When carrying out the procedure, it is important to strictly follow the instructions, then the installation will be carried out efficiently. It should be noted that if the apartment owner is not sure about own strength, better to trust installation work professionals.
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By understanding the technology for installing a toilet, you can save on plumbing services and get the job done to the highest possible quality. The toilet can be mounted traditional way or more modern method- with installation. In the second case, the cistern will be hidden in the wall, which will have a positive effect on the interior of the room.
You are provided with instructions for completing each of the listed installation options.
| H | h | h1 | L | l | l1 | B | b | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| With a solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | Not less than 605 (by agreement between the consumer and the manufacturer, it is allowed to manufacture toilets with a length of 575 mm) | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Without solid cast shelf, mm | 370 and 400 | 320 and 350 | 150 | 460 | 330 | 435 | 340 and 360 | 260 |
| Children's | 335 | 285 | 130 | 405 | 280 | 380 | 290 | 210 |
Set for work
- Hammer.
- Roulette.
- Adjustable wrench.
- Fan pipe.
- Flexible hose.
- FUM tape.
- Fasteners.
- Sealant.
In the case of installing a toilet on an installation, the listed list will be expanded with the corresponding set. Everything you need can be purchased at any plumbing store.
Removing the old toilet
First step . Turn off the water supply and drain all the liquid.
Second step. We unscrew the hose through which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Third step.
Unscrew the tank fasteners. If they are rusty, we arm ourselves with a screwdriver or open-end wrench. We press the bolt head with the selected tool and unscrew the nut using an adjustable wrench. If that doesn’t work, pre-soak the nut with kerosene. We remove the tank.
Fourth step.
We dismantle the toilet mountings.
Fifth step. Disconnect the toilet flush from the sewer. In older buildings, drains are usually secured using cement coating. To destroy it we use a hammer and chisel. We need to crack the cement and carefully rock the toilet to the sides. The drain should turn and become loose. We tilt the product, allowing the remaining water to drain into the sewer.
If the toilet had an outlet to the floor, you need to clean off the wax ring
Sixth step.
We close the sewer hole with a wooden or other suitable plug.
- Important! Sewage gases do not have the most pleasant smell. However, they are poisonous and flammable. Be sure to take this point into account as you work.
- If the floor is tiled and is not level, we install the toilet using choppers. To do this, holes are drilled in the floor, the choppers are driven into them at a level, and then the toilet is attached to the choppers using screws;
- if it is planned to replace the tiles, we will dismantle them old cladding and fill in a new screed if the old one has differences in level;
- if the toilet is installed in a new house or apartment without any finishing, fill in the screed and lay the tiles.
We pay attention to the pipes. The sewer line is cleared of debris and various deposits; we install a tap on the water supply line (if it was missing before) to shut off the water supply to the tank.
Installation procedure for a regular toilet
As a rule, when selling, the toilet and cistern are disconnected. The internal fittings of the barrel are most often already assembled, which greatly simplifies the installation process.
First step. We put the toilet bowl in its place and make marks at the attachment points.
Markings on the floor for fasteners Second step.
We remove the toilet and drill mounting holes in the marked places.
Third step.
We hammer the dowels into the mounting holes.
Fourth step.
Install the bowl. We insert the fasteners through special sealing gaskets. Tighten the fastenings. You should not pull too hard - you can damage either the fastenings or even the toilet itself. We pull until the sanitary ware is firmly attached to the surface. We close the fasteners with plugs on top.
Fifth step.
We install the cover and seat. A manual for assembling them usually comes with the toilet, so we won’t dwell on this event separately.
Sixth step.
We connect the toilet to the sewer. The procedure depends on how exactly the toilet outlet is connected.
Video - Installing a Compact toilet with a wall outlet Prices for components for toilets and urinals Accessories for toilets and urinals
If the release is made into the wall, we work like this: If a floor outlet is being installed, do the following: Helpful advice! If the toilet connection is drain pipe is performed using corrugation; in most cases, sealing can be abandoned, because the design of such an adapter hose itself is capable of providing a fairly tight fit.
We take the gasket from the kit and install it in the water opening in our toilet. Place the tank on the gasket and tighten the bolts.
The most convenient way to install fasteners is as follows:
Eighth step.
We connect the tank to the water supply using a flexible hose. We turn on the water supply and check the quality of the system. If it leaks somewhere, tighten the nuts a little. We adjust the level of filling the tank with water by moving the float lower or higher.
Let the tank fill several times and drain the water. If everything is fine, we accept the toilet for permanent use. Modern version
installations. A special wall installation is used in which the tank mechanism is hidden. As a result, only the toilet bowl and flush button remain visible.
We install a wall-mounted toilet on the installation
Video - How to install a wall-hung toilet on a Geberit Doufix installation
The first stage is installation of the frame
We install a metal frame with fasteners. We attach the tank to the frame. The position of the frame is adjustable using brackets at the top and screws at the bottom. The frames are sold separately, have the same structure and are suitable for use in combination with any toilet bowls.
The assembled structure will have a height of about 1.3-1.4 m. The width should exceed the width of the tank.
Second stage - hanging the tank
- The installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations: drain button
- place it at approximately a meter distance from the floor;
- between the fastening points we maintain a step equal to the distance between the lugs of our toilet;
- the drain pipe should be located at a height of about 220-230 mm; wall-mounted toilet
- hang at a distance of 400-430 mm from the floor. These are average values. In general, focus on the growth of future users;
We maintain a distance of no more than 15 mm between the cistern and the wall.
The third stage – we install the finished installation
We first check the evenness of the wall using a plumb line. If deviations are detected, do the following:
Stage four - install the tank First we connect the tank. The drain can have top and side outlets. Almost everything modern models
tanks allow you to choose between these two options.
Important! When installing a toilet on an installation, it is better to refrain from connecting the tank using a flexible hose. will last much longer than a hose. In the near future, will you want to destroy the frame casing in order to replace such a hose in five minutes? That's it! The best way to connect is to use. All necessary fasteners are usually included with the tank. Separately, you only have to buy a panel for the drain buttons, and that’s not always the case.
We connect the outlet of our toilet to the sewer. The most convenient way to do this is with corrugation. We check the tightness of the structure. If everything is fine, turn off the water, temporarily disconnect the toilet from the flush and move the bowl to the side.
Important! The procedure for connecting the tank to the toilet and water supply may vary depending on the product model. We clarify these points separately and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Fifth stage – covering the installation
To do this, we use moisture-resistant plasterboard with a thickness of 10 mm. It is recommended to fasten it in a double layer. First we do the following:
- screw the pins into the frame for hanging the toilet (included in the kit);
- We close the drain holes with plugs (also included in the kit) so that they do not become clogged with dust and debris;
- We make holes in the drywall for pins, pipes and a drain button.
We attach the sheathing sheets to the frame using special self-tapping screws. Keep the fastening pitch at 30-40 cm. The structure will have small sizes and weight, so there are no strict recommendations regarding the distance between fasteners.
We cover the drywall with tiles or finish it in another way at our discretion.
Helpful advice! Before tiling the box, we install a plug and cuff at the future location of the drain button. Usually they are included in the kit.
Video - Installing a wall-hung toilet
Stage six - installing the toilet
To do this, we connect the outlet of the bowl to the sewer hole and hang the product on pins (we installed them at the previous stages of work). These steps can be done in reverse order, as you prefer. Tighten the fastening nuts.
Important! The tile that will come into contact with the surface must first be covered with a layer of silicone sealant(you can install a gasket instead).
You can turn on the water supply and use the toilet for its intended purpose.
The installation instructions remain the same. Only the order of installation of the toilet bowl changes. Work in the following order.
First step. Keep your knee position firmly in place. Metal fasteners will help you with this.
Second step. Treat the toilet outlet with technical ointment.
Third step. Place the toilet in its designated place. Trace the outline of the plumbing product and mark the holes for the fasteners.
Fourth step. Remove the toilet and install the mounting brackets from the kit according to the markings.
Fifth step. Install the bowl, press its outlet into fan pipe and secure the plumbing product using bolts or other fasteners included in the kit.
Sixth step. Connect the tank to the drain. Installation and connection of this element is carried out in the same way as in the case of installation wall model toilet.
Seventh step. We insert the drain button into a pre-prepared hole in the casing, turn on the water supply and check the operation of the toilet. If everything is normal, we accept the product for permanent use.
Read our new article- and also find out what types there are, how to choose and install.
Video - Installing an attached toilet with a hidden cistern
Happy work!
Video - DIY toilet installation
Modern technologies for the manufacture of plumbing fixtures make it possible to fill the market building materials various models of toilets.
Sanitary fixtures vary in modifications cisterns, material of manufacture (porcelain, earthenware), fastening device, location of water supply and drain outlet. In most cases, bathrooms and toilet rooms decorated with tiles.
Walls and floors are covered with tiles. How to fix a toilet on a tiled floor so that it stands firmly on its base? In this article we will give the reader information on how best to do this.
Preparatory work before installing the toilet
Find a comfortable toilet pipe length The drain sink is installed when the work on tiling the walls and floors with ceramic tiles is completed.
If you install the plumbing first, and then start installing the ceramic floor covering, you will have to deal with rather complex cutting in the slabs to contour the base of the pedestal of the plumbing fixture.
This will cause a risk of damage to the cladding if the selection of cut tiles is unsuccessful.
When tiling walls and floors with ceramic tiles, you need to achieve a comfortable protrusion length from the wall water pipe.
The outlet of the water pipe must be such that a shut-off valve can be installed.
The sewer drain can protrude from both the wall and the floor. The sewer socket must provide a tight connection with the corrugation.
Required tools and materials
To successfully complete the task, you should have patience and prepare the following set of tools:
- perforator, drill;
- marker;
- drills for glass and ceramics;
- screwdrivers;
- sealant;
- spanners;
- adjustable wrench and sockets with collar;
- dowels with self-tapping screws;
- pliers;
- corrugated pipe;
- tap;
- core;
- grinder with abrasive wheel;
- connecting hose.
Installing a toilet on a tiled floor
Toilet installation
Installing a toilet on a tiled floor different ways depending on the position of the mounting holes in the sink pedestal.
There are three options for attaching a plumbing fixture to ceramic coating gender:
Most models sink drains manufactured with mounting holes for vertical fastening. Installation of the sink is carried out in several stages:
Before installing the toilet, check the horizontal position of the installation site. If no deviations are detected, then the base of the pedestal and the tiles along the contour of the sink support are not cleaned.
Installing a toilet with side mounting holes is somewhat different from installing a sink with vertical fasteners.
The difference is that the mounting parts are hidden under the pedestal of the device.
Install this model of the device as follows:
This installation method is used if the base of the floor is equipped with a heating system. There is a risk of damage heating equipment when drilling mounting holes. For more information about the work, watch this video:
In this case, cleaning the base of the pedestal and the surface ceramic tiles along the contour of the toilet support is required. This is done to increase the adhesion of the bonded surfaces.
Press the toilet firmly to the floor Gluing a toilet bowl to a tiled surface liquid nails. The surfaces are covered with glue, then they are pressed against each other.
The toilet is removed from the installation site and placed on its side. Maintain the time specified in the instructions. Then set the sink in place and press it to the floor.
The rest of the installation work is carried out in the same way as in previous cases.
You can begin installing a toilet on a tiled floor yourself only if you have the skills and experience in this type of work.
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