How to make a stack near a pipe with your own hands. Do-it-yourself drainage from sewer pipes: a cheap alternative to purchased options. Additional parts: mounting hooks and connectors

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is installed. They are made from different materials, more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are substantial. You can save a little money by assembling the drain yourself. The features and installation procedure will be discussed further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common roof drains are made of galvanized metal. Let them not be as attractive as more modern options, but reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What’s also good is that if you have the skill of a tinsmith or just have “straight” hands, you can make a drain out of galvanized steel with your own hands.

If we talk about other metal systems, two of them belong to the elite category - copper and an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer coating. They are quite affordable in price, appearance- you can’t find fault, in terms of durability - it depends on the manufacturer. If the technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of roof drainage - made from polymers. They can withstand ultraviolet radiation, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered quite high price, especially European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the low-cost systems category.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located along the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly; for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered unnecessary. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with an overlap of at least 30 cm and connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe must be made curved. For this, there are maple or universal rings (from some manufacturers). The drainpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the entire system.

A system of the required configuration is assembled from all these elements. If you decide to buy ready-made elements and then assemble the gutter yourself, the best solution is to have a house plan with dimensions on hand. Using it, they will quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate required amount elements.

Installation features

Most of the questions arise about attaching brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made in one direction. If it is more, either they put an additional funnel (and a drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle in both directions.

When installing a drain with your own hands, you usually do this: nail the bracket in the very high point. Then the lowest one is nailed, taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the others are attached. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line you are focusing on. Usually this is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble level will do, but of a long length - at least a meter. You won’t be able to find your bearings with shorter ones at longer lengths.

Number of brackets and methods of attaching them

The number of brackets for installing a drain is calculated simply: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. To the resulting figure we add one (extreme bracket) and get the required quantity for one wall. All others are calculated similarly. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count one by one - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, please note that the brackets are nailed taking into account the created slope. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or a special tool - a hook bender (sold in the same place where gutters are made). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the range of 1/2 - 1/3. So most of The gutters “catch” water, which is important during heavy rainfalls.

At what level should I mount it?

Now about how high to raise the gutter to roofing material. If there is not much snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and attach it wherever you like. Otherwise, the gutter must be lowered so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “go away.”

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If you cannot lower the gutter lower, you will need to install snow guards on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow gradually melts and comes off in small fragments, without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snow melt looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are placed in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequences of actions. The first has a specially formed groove at the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, secured with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then pressed alternately into the locks on the front of the brackets.

The two fragments of the gutter must be connected using a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply laid overlapping with an overlap of 30 cm (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness, you can lay a strip of rubber between the two gutters and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel fastening

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues by installing funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, stepping back from the edge of the gutter about 20 cm, hand hacksaw a hole is cut out. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - there is a high probability that the cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it is wound up to the second edge and fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of drainpipes

Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotating element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows the pipes to be brought closer to the wall and secured there. For fastening there are special clamps painted in the same color as the entire system. They are there different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that secure the pipe to the wall.

The clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into drainage system(if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drainage pipe ends with a rotating element, which diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, you installed the drain yourself, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is placed on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow for less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true on tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done at the dacha and you need to spend a minimum for this? There are several very budget options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm or more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. As drainpipes you can use the same diameter or a little smaller. It’s more convenient to buy ready-made brackets, but in principle, you can make them yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, watch the video.

An even more budget option is drainpipes made of plastic bottles. They cannot make a normal gutter, but the pipe funnels work normally.

The drainage system involves the collection and disposal of precipitation, as well as melt water, but the capabilities of such systems do not end there, since with their help it is possible to direct liquid directly into storm drainage. As a result, precipitation does not fall on the walls, while ensuring the safety of the blind area. In addition, the accumulation of water near the foundation and in basements is eliminated, which guarantees an extension of the life of the building.

In this article we will look at some types of rainwater drains, and also learn how to make them yourself.

The design of the drain requires the presence of special gutters for removing precipitation, which are installed along the perimeter of the roof using brackets. Due to the fact that the storm drain repeats the configuration of the upper element of the building along its base, there are both external and internal corners. In this case, all elements of the system are connected to each other with sufficient tightness, which is ensured by rubber seals.

Many consider such elements to be superfluous, since the option of laying gutters overlapping is available, when one part overlaps the other by at least 30 cm, and their connection is carried out using self-tapping screws.

To ensure the removal of sediment, holes are made in certain places in the gutter necessary for the installation of funnels. After that, sewer pipes are connected to the installed cone-shaped devices, that is, they are integrated into the overall system.

When the roof has a large overhang, a curved cylindrical product is used, which is possible with the help of additional elements in the form of elbows and special rings. The drainpipe is mounted on the wall of the house using clamps.

The result of such an assembly is the creation of a system of the required configuration. For independent arrangement storm drains, you will need a house plan with its exact dimensions. This will allow you to understand what elements will need to be purchased for the future design, as well as determine their quantity.

Kinds

Drainage systems may differ in the method of installation and the material used. In the first case, the water drainage structure is classified as home-made and industrial, and in the second - as plastic and metal.

Homemade drain

Solving the issue of installing rainwater drainage on your own has certain advantages. Such a system can turn out not only beautiful, but also original. You can realize almost any fantasy in terms of creating a structure to protect your home from water. It is worth considering some nuances.

A homemade system requires significant costs and regular maintenance, since its arrangement is usually carried out using galvanizing, which quickly begins to rot. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the certain complexity of joining some elements.

We have tried to take into account the common mistakes of craftsmen and have provided installation rules below.

Factory drain

Purchasing a factory-made rainwater drainage system will save you from many problems of non-compliance with standards and parameters. By purchasing certain gutter elements from one manufacturer, you don’t have to worry that they won’t fit with each other, since the factory is distinguished by the production of standardized products.

Plastic drain

Plastic-based systems can be adhesive, which involves installing storm drains using glue, or glueless, assembled using sealing rubber bands. Regardless of the installation method you choose, plastic gutters have the following advantages:

UV resistance;
no corrosion;
strength;
light weight;
wide operating temperature range – from -40 °C to +70 °C;
the ability to create a drain of any configuration, which is determined by a rich assortment of components;
no need for regular care;
ease of installation;
variety of color solutions.

However, plastic also has a certain number of disadvantages, including the following:

weak resistance to mechanical impact, which eliminates the possibility of installing plastic building on high-rise buildings;
regular replacement of rubber seals, which can only be carried out by disassembling the problem area and reassembling it after eliminating the malfunction;
the inability to restore one or another destroyed instrument, which characterizes such systems as insufficiently repairable;
significant linear expansion of plastic elements.

Metal drain

Storm sewers made of metal differ from each other in that they can be galvanized, copper, or with a zinc layer supplemented with a polymer coating. The choice of a specific type of design is based on characteristics such as price and service life. In any case, metal gutters are good because they:

The disadvantages of such systems include:

significant weight of the drainage structure as a whole;
Not a large number of components, which makes it difficult to install such systems on roofs with angles other than 90 degrees;
installation complexity;
high price;
small selection of colors;
susceptibility to corrosion (except for copper systems);

Determining which drain is better is quite difficult, since much depends on various factors, for example, operating conditions. At the same time, it is necessary to understand that the main importance is not the cost of the design, but its compliance with quality parameters.

Do-it-yourself drain from various materials

Below are some examples of how to do it rain drainage for the roof yourself. This task is not difficult, the main thing is to have the desire to do such work, understand the process of creating a system and know some options for executing the plan. For example, a drain can be made from a sewer pipe, tin, sheet metal, wood, polyethylene, etc.

Sewage pipe

To correctly calculate the gutter parameters in accordance with the expected intensity of rain flow, it is necessary to determine the effective roof area. If such calculations cause you difficulties, you can use average values, which involves preparing the following elements systems:

plastic pipe with a diameter of 50 mm for arranging water drainage;
a cylindrical product with a thickness of 100 to 110 mm, necessary for the manufacture of gutters;
adapters that make it possible to connect the above-mentioned elements with each other when the inlet diameter reaches 110 mm, and the outlet diameter reaches 50 mm.

Since a plastic sewer pipe was used to make gutters, it will need to be split into two halves of equal size. To do this, you can use a grinder, an electric jigsaw or a hand saw. The first option is preferable, but there are some nuances of the process.

If you cut a pipe using a grinder, plastic will inevitably stick to the special casing, so it is advisable to dismantle this safety element. As a result, it is recommended to use other protection, part of which is a mandatory face mask. Although there is a more optimal solution to the problem - buy a special disk designed for working with plastic.

To ensure a high-quality connection of gutters and tees, do not unravel the pipe all the way: leave about 150 mm at the edges.

Metal

A sheet of metal is taken and cut into strips so that their width is 25 cm. Then these parts are given the shape of a gutter, that is, they are curved accordingly. The use of galvanized sheet or tin requires the manufacture of durable steel brackets. For this you can use wire rod (6 mm), but then you will have to double the number of hooks.

Making your own brackets shouldn't be difficult. To do this, it is enough to take a cut of a log with a diameter of 20 cm and wind a wire around it, making about three turns. After this, you need to remove the resulting workpiece and compress it. Then you need to bend the edge of the structure by 4 cm to fix it on the roof, and shape the remaining part in accordance with the required profile.

Using the same screws, the brackets are installed on the roof. Then the gutters are suspended and the catch basins are leveled to form the desired slope.

Wood and polyethylene

As a starting material for the construction of a drain of this type, you should use a thin board, total length which would be equal to double the perimeter applied to the roof overhang. After which you can begin the actual production of the drain:

Connect the boards in pairs using nails at 90 degree angles.
Assemble gutters that match the length of the walls of the house, which must be overlapped.
Make fasteners for installing gutters in the form of hooks using boards or wire rod. The best solution will be the use not of wire, but of scrap lumber, the use of which involves cutting triangular grooves that serve to secure the gutter.
Secure the brackets to the corners of the wall, for example, with nails.
Install narrow channels, guides rainwater from the top of the building, observing the overlap of their edges.
Adjust the slope of the gutters and place plastic film in them, securing it with shoe nails, buttons or tape.

For the manufacture of a drainpipe it is quite wooden will do gutter, if its length is at least 2.5 m. The purpose of arranging a drain is to divert atmospheric precipitation into a special ditch, which should have a depth of about 30 cm, and it must also be filled with crushed stone. When digging a ditch, you should create a slope that helps remove sediment from the wall of the house to a distance of at least 1.5 m.

A wooden roof drain will last longer if, to ensure tightness, you use not plastic film, but silicone sealant, having previously treated the wood with a preservative composition.

Installation nuances

After all the preparations have been made, let’s take a closer look at how to equip a drainage system with your own hands. Installation of brackets is carried out with the obligatory creation of a slope towards the funnels, when, taking into account the linear meter, a vertical displacement of 5 mm is assumed. If there is a need to accelerate the flow of water, this slope can be increased to 10 mm.

If the length of the pediment does not exceed 10 m, a slope is made to one side. A larger value involves the installation of an additional funnel installed in the middle with a drain pipe connected to it to form a drain. But you can also make two slopes of the gutter going from the middle of the gable.

To install gutters you need:

fix the first bracket at the point of maximum height of the sewerage system;
fix the second one, taking into account the fact that it will be lower than the first one, thereby creating the required slope;
Stretch twine between the installed brackets, which serves as a guide for marking the attachment points for other supporting parts of this type.

The described process of installing storm sewers looks quite simple from the point of view of its implementation, but there are certain nuances. To create a slope, they mainly focus on the horizontal, which is the front board, known as the wind board.

But is it always installed with strict horizontality? It is advisable to verify this, for example, using a hydraulic level or level. You can also use a simple option in the form of a bubble device, but only if its length is 1 m or more.

Installation of a metal drain

Installation of a metal structure is a little more complicated. The system is set up in compliance with a certain order of work: first, hooks are installed, then funnels are cut in, gutters are connected to each other, plugs and other elements are used to form the system as such, including connecting drainage pipes.

Hooks

Installation of long hooks at the stage of building a house, that is, before laying the roof, is the primary way to fasten these parts to the rafters. If the upper element of the building's covering is already equipped, short rods are used, the mounting location of which is the frontal board.

The use of long hooks is preferable, as this gives additional strength to the system. In any case, regardless of the type of fastening, the installation step of the hooks should be observed - from 600 to 900 mm. If this is not followed, there is a high probability of the system collapsing due to the load created by the snow. To calculate the required number of hooks there is a simple formula:

n = L/b,

where L is the distance that determines the distance of the first two installed metal rods from each other, b is the installation step of the supporting parts of the type in question.

Number of hooks required during construction drainage system, is calculated not only using the above formula, but also taking into account the fact that these supporting parts must be present at the joints of the gutter and at its ends.

To create a flow of collected water towards the funnel, the system is given a slope of 5 mm per linear meter gutters. As a result, there is a need for vertical displacement of fasteners, which can be calculated using the following formula:

h = 0.005 x L,

where L is the distance between the outer hooks.

For example, with a gutter length of 10 m, the vertical displacement will be determined to be 5 cm. The installation of the so-called starting hooks is carried out taking into account the vertical displacement. Installation of other supporting parts is carried out along a line that is marked using twine stretched between the two initially installed hooks.

Before you begin installing these parts, it is advisable to check whether the position of the cornice is horizontal, as this may affect the accuracy of the markings. The hooks must be fastened with a distance of at least 25 mm between the line created by the roof slope and the edge of the gutter looking outwards.

Funnels

Mark the locations for installing the funnels, and then cut out the holes in the shape of the letter V. If you intend to install a 125 by 90 mm drain, then the width of such openings should be from 100 to 110 mm. When installing a structure 150 by 100 mm - from 120 to 130 mm. IN in this case it is necessary to maintain the distance of the upper edge of the gutter from the cutout in accordance with a minimum distance of 15 mm.

Stubs

Installation of such devices is carried out at the ends of the gutter. The implementation of this process involves the direct installation of a plug, followed by sealing the connection using a special silicone compound. Greater density can be achieved through the effectiveness of a rubber mallet.

Gutters

Using a hook, secure the gutter by inserting its inner edge into the clamp and ensuring that the outer edge is held due to the plate type of this fastener.

This installation involves fastening the gutter, ensuring that the outer edge of this element of the system should be 6 mm lower than the inner one. Setting the proposed angle of inclination is necessary to eliminate the possibility of water entering the façade during heavy rainfall.

In this case, the roofing covering should be located above the gutter, covering 50 mm of its width. At the same time, the slope line should not reach the edge of the gutter by 40 mm. Although a run-up is usually formed due to the fact that the narrow channel is installed at a slope, that is, at the top point of the gutter it can be 20 mm, and at the bottom - 70 mm.

Upon completion of the installation of the channel that collects and directs water from the roof of the building, the eaves strip is installed. Its lower edge should hang over the gutter, as this eliminates the possibility of the front board getting wet.

Connectors and corners

Special connectors make it possible to join gutters. Such elements contain rubber gaskets, which not only guarantee the tightness of the joint, but also eliminate negative impact thermal expansion.

The gutters must be fixed with the condition that there is a gap of 3 to 4 mm between them. Direct installation of connectors involves the following set of actions: bend the lock to an angle within 90 degrees; install the device so that its rolled side is put on the back of the gutter; Align the product and secure the lock.

Drainpipes

This stage requires the mandatory installation of at least 2 brackets with a step of 1 m. Supporting parts must be installed at the pipe joints and where the elbow is mounted.

If the walls of the house are wooden or the material from which they are made is quite soft, then the brackets are fixed with self-tapping screws. In relation to concrete and brick walls, installation of supporting parts requires the use of a drill.

The final installation process is the connection of the elbow of the cylindrical product, the drain and connecting pipes, as well as the drain elbow. Taking into account the fact that the connecting pipe is crimped on both sides, the product can easily be used when installing two risers, since it can be cut.

If there is a need to obtain a connecting pipe about 90 cm long, all you need to do is get rid of the top crimp, that is, cut it off. The height of the drain elbow from the ground level should be no more than 200 mm, as this avoids splashing water.

The last nuances of installing the system are connecting the sewer pipe to the funnel and snapping the bracket locks.

Installation of cylindrical drainage products should be done with crimping down, which is necessary in order to eliminate the possibility of leakage.

Installation of PVC drain

There is nothing complicated in installing this design, but it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

indicate how the system will be placed, taking into account the fact that it should receive the entire volume of precipitation collected from the roof;
determine the location of funnels and corners;
install the first bracket at the highest point in relation to the cone-shaped device;
using twine and a level, determine a horizontal line passing through the point where the bracket is installed, and, starting from it, set the slope;
install the last support part and connect it to the first using twine;
install other brackets in 40 cm increments, adhering to the marked slope line.

Gutter installation:

prepare a narrow channel by making sections of it of the required length;
connect the drainage components using appropriate elements or glue;
install the gutter on the brackets, using the latches and avoiding the joints of both the channels themselves and the funnels falling on these supporting elements;
install plugs.

Installation of a sewerage system:

connect the pipe to the gutter by diverting the drain;
align the vertical of the cylindrical structure using a plumb line and a square;
fix the pipes forming the sediment drainage structure in order to determine the installation locations of the clamps in 1 m increments, but with the obligatory location of the upper part on the line of the first joint;
fix the connecting elements on the wall, taking into account that the sewer pipe after installation will be 2 cm away from the side structure of the house;
mount the drain bell on the hatch, but without rigid fixation, so that you can control the drainage.

We tried to touch on all the nuances of installing rainwater drainage. Some work is quite difficult to do alone, so it is recommended to use a partner.

In hardware stores you can find a lot of options for ready-made drainage systems, but their cost is high. Having learned how to make a drain with your own hands, you can make such a structure from steel sheets with different types of coating. It will not cost much, but will serve as reliably as one made in production.

The selected material must be strong, durable and resistant to environmental influences - precipitation, temperature changes and ultraviolet rays.

To one degree or another, these requirements are met by:

Galvanized sheet steel is a budget option, actively used to create gutters for drainage systems. Its disadvantage is that it is not very strong; the structure can be damaged with a crowbar when cleaning ice.
Metal with polymer coating. They are excellent for buildings whose roofs are covered with metal tiles, since it is easy to choose a material that matches the color. Resistant to low temperatures and corrosion make steel gutters with protective film made of polymer is a good choice. The only negative is the noticeable noise that occurs when water passes through the gutters.
Painted sheet steel. Such structures will require periodic renewal of the coating. Not too much good choice for houses covered with a soft roof - abrasive particles falling into the gutters along with rainwater will gradually destroy the metal.
Plastic. Durable and corrosion-resistant material, products from which are quite easy to assemble. The design is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and is not destroyed by abrasive particles or acid precipitation. Doesn't make noise.
Copper and zinc-titanium alloy. They are distinguished by durability, strength and reliability, but are very expensive.

Main elements of the drainage system

A drainage system of any type consists of standard elements, each of which is responsible for a specific task:

Gutters. Water flowing from the roof enters gutters located around the perimeter of the building.
Drainpipes. From the gutters, wastewater is carried down through pipes.
Funnels. Connect gutters and pipes together.
Plugs. Elements that control the rate of precipitation runoff serve as limiters.
Adapters and couplings. Parts that connect straight sections of a structure together.
Tees, elbows, elbows. Used to distribute water, bring drainpipes closer to wall surfaces, and for corners.
Brackets and holders. They are used to secure gutters.
Clamps and pins - fasteners for pipes.

When designing gutters for the roof of a private house with your own hands, take into account:

Diameter of gutters and pipes. In each case, they are selected individually, taking into account the area of the roof, the abundance of precipitation in the region, and the angle of inclination of the slopes. Average parameters for small buildings (country houses, garages) – gutter d 7-11.5 cm, pipe d – 5-7 cm; for a cottage or house of medium size - d gutters 11.5-13 cm, d pipes 7.5-11 cm.
Location of drainage and water intake elements. The scheme depends on the type of roof and the length of the overhang. Pipes are usually installed in the corners of the building.
Quantity of materials. For an accurate calculation, you will need to calculate the total footage of the gutters (the perimeter of the building and a small margin of about 5%). You need to determine the number of funnels and pipes yourself, focusing on the length of the walls - they are installed at a distance of 10 m from each other. The length of the pipe depends on the height of the building (from ground level to overhang). The distribution, corner and connecting parts of the structure are determined individually, taking into account the configuration of your home.

Manufacturing of gutters from steel sheets

Gutters made of galvanized steel are the most popular and budget option. To make a drainage system you can use sheet metal with a polymer coating, which is more resistant to external influences, the procedure will remain the same.

Materials and tools

To create a drain with your own hands you will need:

sheet material 0.5 mm thick;
hammer;
pliers;
metal scissors;
marker for marking.

When performing work, you need to take into account that the width of the workpiece must be 1.5 cm greater than the diameter of the pipe - this gap is needed to connect the elements.

Pipe

Instructions for making a pipe:

A pattern is made on a metal sheet based on the previously calculated parameters. From one edge, running along the length of the sheet, you need to draw a straight line at a distance of 0.5 cm, from the other - with an indentation of 1 cm.
Using scissors, cut out the part.
The area with an indentation of 1 cm is bent at an angle of 90° using pliers, the second edge is also bent, but at a slight angle.
The workpiece is rolled into the shape of a pipe, with both curved edges fitting into one another.
Using a hammer, the pipe is lightly pressed down to give it shape and make it easier to connect to the next element.

Gutter

How to make a semicircular gutter yourself? Ideally, this work requires special equipment, since without it the product will have an uneven shape, but if you don’t have it, you can try to do it yourself.

From metal sheet cut out the workpiece, place it on a pipe or a tree trunk of the required diameter and, using a mallet, give the workpiece the required shape.

Funnel

The part consists of two glass pipes of different diameters, the diameter of which must be equal to the diameter of the pipe. The components are made independently using the method described above, however, during manufacturing, the edges should be flared not inward, but outward.

Installation of a self-made drainage system

When all the elements are ready, begin assembling the drainage system.

Installation can be carried out in various ways; the choice of method depends on the fastenings and the time of year when the work is carried out.

It is advisable to install the drainage system before the roof has been covered. The most reliable and successful method is installation on a rafter or external crossbar pitched roof. This allows you to protect suspended mounting structures from rain by covering them with a cornice strip.

If the roof is already installed, use a different method.

Work order

First, brackets are attached that will support the gutters. They are placed every 55-60 cm, and the level should decrease towards the drain. The holders should be installed so that the roof overhang extends approximately one-third of the semicircle, the remaining two-thirds will collect rainwater flowing from the roof.

To install brackets on a wooden cornice strip at the desired slope, use the following method:

Mount the highest positioned holder.
Install the bracket located at the lowest point (the slope is increased by 5 mm every meter). If you do not maintain the recommended tilt angle, water drainage will be difficult and leaks may occur.
The two installed brackets are connected with a thin rope, and a line is drawn along the wall along the rope.
The remaining supporting elements are installed at the required distance, placing them along the marked line.

After this, the gutter is installed; a plug is placed on the edge located highest. At the junction with the pipe gutter, a hole is cut out for a funnel, and the latter is installed.

After this work, the installation of waste pipes begins. To secure them along the wall, clamps are used.

If there is a storm drain on the site, the pipe is directed to it. In its absence, in case of water drainage into the soil, the pipe is placed at a distance of 30-35 cm above the ground level.

To prevent the system from becoming clogged with fallen leaves, it is advisable to install protective nets on the gutters. They will not interfere with water collection, but will protect gutters and pipes from large debris.

In ready-made systems, such protection is almost always supplied as a kit, but when making a drainage system yourself, it is easy to do it yourself.

This will require metal grid in rolls. Having cut strips whose width is slightly larger than the diameter of the gutter, it is fixed to the elements of the discharge system using ordinary plastic clamps.

Both ready-made and self-made drainage systems must be regularly inspected and cleaned of contaminants. Even a metal mesh will not protect the structure from dirt, dust, and small debris getting inside. As they accumulate, they can impede the flow of water or form blockages in pipes. This can cause water to enter the walls of the house and erode the foundation.

Having learned how to properly make roof gutters with your own hands, you can save a lot if you do all the work on manufacturing and installing the manufactured system yourself. At the same time, it is important to carefully follow the work technology, and when drawing up an installation diagram, take accurate measurements. A design made in accordance with all the rules will reliably cope with the task and will last for many years.

It is impossible to do without drainage systems attached to the roof of the house if you do not want rain streams, flowing from the height of the roof, splashing onto the walls and washing away the foundation. You can assemble a roof drain with your own hands by purchasing ready-made systems from well-known companies, or you can make it yourself, for example, from a galvanized sheet or even from plastic sewer pipes.

By purchasing professionally manufactured and structurally thought-out kits, you can choose everything for them necessary elements- from small fastener parts to complex angles and connections.

If a decision is made, then you will have to try and think carefully about what the elements of this system will be made of and how functional they will be.

What are drainage systems made of?

The most popular materials for the manufacture of gutters currently are special polymers that can easily withstand low and high temperatures, as well as their sharp changes. Such systems are produced by companies specialized in the development of plastic products for the construction and exterior design of buildings. Kits of professionally manufactured systems are quite expensive, and they are mainly installed on the roofs of respectable mansions and less often in — ordinary houses in the private sector, although they can transform any structure.

Galvanized steel gutters are a kind of “classic of the genre”

Since time immemorial, drainage systems have been made of galvanized metal. Such elements are usually ordered from tinsmiths or purchased in specialized stores. Metal gutters are more affordable and therefore are used more often. Despite the low price compared to other systems, and perhaps not as aesthetically pleasing, galvanized gutters have their positive aspects, in which they are even superior to similar sets made from plastic or metal alloys. The main disadvantage of galvanized systems is the divergence of connecting seams due to temperature changes. However, here a lot depends on the skill of the tinsmith who makes them.

Steel gutters can be coated with a layer of highly resistant polymer paint. This improves them significantly decorative characteristics and gives additional protection from corrosion.

Almost “eternal” gutters made of zinc-titanium alloy

Gutter systems are also made from a metal alloy called zinc-titanium, which is also coated at the final stage of production. polymer paints. The content of pure zinc in the alloy reaches 98 - 99% - a guarantee of corrosion resistance, the addition of titanium is a condition for the strength of products, and very small inclusions of aluminum and copper give this material high ductility during processing.

Such drainage systems look just as aesthetically pleasing as plastic ones, but are more reliable as they better withstand the influence of the external environment. Their external disadvantages, if the coating is of poor quality, include possible peeling polymer coating, therefore, having settled on this option, it is better to purchase kits from a trusted manufacturer that enjoys strong authority.

All of the listed materials are well suited for gutters - they are easy to process, install and look neat, blending organically with the exterior of the building and becoming both a necessary functional detail of the building and an important addition to its design.

Basic elements of a drainage system

If gutters are purchased in a store, you don’t have to think about how and what to make one of the elements of the system from - the manufacturer has already thought through all the nuances of the roof design. Having measured and specified all the parameters in your own home, you can buy all the necessary parts.

Despite the variety of options for drainage systems, they all have approximately general structure and consist of similar structural parts:

1. The gutter is the main part of the drain, which collects water flowing from the roof slopes. Typically, gutters are made up to 4 meters long.

2. Hook-brackets on which the gutter is laid. Plastic brackets are usually used for systems also made of polymers.

3. Gutter edge cap for right and left sides.

4. Funnels installed along the edges of gutters.

5. Central funnel, fixed with glue or using grooves and seals (5a).

6. Connecting piece (coupling) for the gutter. It can also be mounted with glue or with a clever groove connection using sealing gaskets (6a).

7. Universal connecting angle of 90º external and internal (7a).

8. Drain pipe with connecting pipe coupling

9. A screw clamp that tightens the coupling connection of pipes and other elements.

10. A tee providing a connection between two drainpipes.

11. Transition coupling - used when it is necessary to connect pipes of different diameters.

12 and 13. Bends (elbows) for connecting drainpipes. Usually have an angle of 60 ÷ 70º - different manufacturers may apply own standards. It is clear that in one system there must be elements with the same angle values.

14. Terminal outlet with an angle of 45 º - for directing wastewater into the storm water inlet. This detail is also called a mark.

15. Hook-bracket made of metal.

In addition to the presented elements, for some drainage systems, instead of brackets, the kit includes a curtain rod, which is an additional holder for the brackets or even performs their function itself.

Before going to the store, you need to draw up a drawing of the edge of the roof with all the turns and protrusions, while measuring the corners. Drawing with detailed parameters drainage system should be provided to a specialist who should help you select all the necessary elements for a complete set.

Video: example of installation of a finished GAMRAT drainage system

Prices for drainage systems

Drainage systems

Independent production of drainage elements

1. If you are installing a system made of galvanized metal, then, in order to save money, you can make gutters yourself, since sheets of material are much cheaper than ready-made elements.

You can make a semicircular or square gutter from galvanized steel, but the semicircular shape is still considered traditional.

It is easy to shape a thin sheet of metal using a pipe of the required diameter, making special bends at the edges so that they are securely held on the mounting brackets.

If you manage to make a gutter for the drain, then making the brackets will also not be difficult. Their semicircle should have a slightly larger radius, since the gutter should easily fit and be secured in the bracket.

It is easy to make a box-shaped gutter from galvanized metal. Its form is shown by wooden block the right size. One of the sides is made a little larger and bent to the side so that the flowing water gets to the right place. Then, its edges are bent in a special way.

2. If you need to make a drain only on a straight section to the roof, then the gutter can also be made from plastic sewer pipes. Such gutters will cost almost nothing in terms of price, since one pipe produces two gutters at once.

The pipe at the beginning and end is fixed on two boards using self-tapping screws; in its upper part, exactly opposite the lower fixation points, one more self-tapping screw is not completely screwed in. A thin line is pulled over their protruding parts. rope, a straight line is marked along it. Using this marking, the pipe is cut from start to finish using a grinder.
The pipe is then turned over and the process is repeated. Thus, we get two halves, which will serve as gutters. When assembling, individual parts can be screwed together from the inside. Using sewer pipes, you can also take from the same system corner parts, also sawing them lengthwise.

Video: making gutters from a plastic sewer pipe

Of course, homemade parts will not have such a spectacular appearance as professionally made ones, but you can save a decent amount on this.

3. If desired, you can select other components to assemble the entire complex, since currently you can find a lot suitable materials, which will serve as blanks. The only parts that you still have to order or buy are funnels. It is quite difficult to make them yourself without any experience in tin work.

Installation of a drainage system

The installation of the system is carried out differently, depending on the chosen fasteners and the installation period.

Installation on the outer crossbar or rafter of a pitched roof before laying and securing is considered optimal. roofing.

The presented diagram clearly shows how the brackets are secured and covered with a cornice strip. In this case, it acts as a kind of shield for the soffit, protecting it from direct moisture.

In other cases, the eaves strip is made from a board, and if the brackets are not secured before laying the roof, then they are attached to it.

Sometimes gutter mounts are attached to the bottom of the slope directly onto the roof, but this is not entirely the right option.

Wherever the brackets for the gutters are attached, their location must be calculated in such a way that water flowing from the roof in a large stream falls into this channel and does not spill beyond it.

This parameter depends on how much the edge of the roof protrudes. If it extends over a sufficiently large distance, sometimes it makes sense to choose a fastening option installed on the roof itself.

Video: example of calculation and installation of a house drainage system

So, having purchased or manufactured a suitable drainage system, you can begin its installation.

1. The first step is the process of installing the gutter holder brackets.

They are fixed at a distance of 550 — 600 mm apart, with a slight slope towards the drain. The brackets must be secured in such a way that the roof overhang is at gutter 1/3 the size of the semicircle, and 2/3 of the gutters will “catch” water from the roof.

If the brackets are fixed to wooden cornice strip, then in order to clearly see the slope and fastening line, carry out the following actions:

— First, install a bracket that will support the highest edge of the gutter, taking into account all the rules and recommendations.

— The next step is to secure the last bracket in the row. It is fixed with a slope of 4-5 mm per linear meter. Incorrectly calculated and installed system will not work efficiently, and over time it will inevitably develop leaks.

— Then, the brackets are fixed in the marked places. In this way, the required overall slope of the drainage system will be met. gutters

The gutter is laid and assembled, and a plug is installed on its raised edge.

If a funnel is to be installed at the end and in the middle of the gutter, and it is necessary to make a hole for it corresponding to the size of the funnel, then it is installed on the gutter and fixed.

An additional middle funnel is installed if the length of the side of the house exceeds 12 meters. If it is shorter, then it is enough to install this element only at the end of the gutter, in its lower part.
The gutter is fixed by sliding a groove on its edge onto the protrusion of the bracket.
If a ready-made drainage system is installed, then the individual parts of the gutter are fastened together with special connecting parts, which provide for precise mating and appropriate sealing. If the system is made independently, then the gutters are laid overlapping and twisted with self-tapping screws. In this case, it is also useful to provide a thin sealing gasket, for example, from a rubber strip.
When the sewer channel is laid and funnels are installed in it, sewer pipes and elbow bends are mounted to them, which are tightened at the joints with clamps. Drainpipes are secured to the wall with clamps. Using bends will allow you to position the pipes along the wall so that the clamp posts do not protrude too much.

If water from the roof goes into the ground, then the drain pipe attached to the wall should end at 300 — 350 mm from the ground surface.
If for collection and disposal rain or melt water, a storm drain is installed around the house, then pipe from the roof sometimes connect directly to it or place the edge of the drainpipe with a mark directly above the storm inlet opening or drainage tray.

Find out how to make different systems from our new article.

Something that many people forget about or simply don’t know. It is highly advisable to install a protective mesh on the gutters, which will not allow large debris and fallen leaves to accumulate at the bottom. In ready-made systems, it is usually provided in the form of a strip that is attached to the edges of the gutter.

For a homemade system, you can purchase mesh by the meter and place it in a gutter, rolling it into a roll, which is held together with special plastic clamps.

You can make such a “filter” yourself by rolling the mesh into a tube along the diameter of the drain

Video: an important element of the drainage system - a mesh to protect against large debris

Whatever drainage system is installed on the roof of the house, it needs periodic monitoring and regular preventative cleaning. Even if a mesh is installed on the gutter, it needs to be washed sometimes, since large fragments from the roof get into the drains with a large amount of dust and dirt, and the soaked fallen leaves that fall on the mesh are not always blown away by the wind. If the drain system is clogged, all the water that accumulates in it, along with dirt, will one day end up on the walls of the house.

Getting started with installation finished system or for self-production drainage, you need to correctly calculate all the parameters and slopes, make a drawing and, of course, evaluate your strength in performing this work. If you are not sure that it will be done with the proper quality, it is better to seek help from specialists.

Atmospheric water is one of the main causes of early wear and destruction building structures. If you do not protect the house from its harmful effects, the famous source of life will stubbornly “undermine” the foundation and blind area.

A drainage system, the construction of which can be easily completed by a home craftsman, can eliminate the negative impact. Just first you need to figure out how to install a drain with your own hands so that it serves flawlessly.

Among the functions entrusted to roofing systems are drainage activities. The runoff of precipitation and melt water is facilitated by the slope, which is characteristic not only of slopes, but also. However, the inclined configuration is not able to perform the work of protecting facades and blind areas with foundations. Guttering is required to protect structures below the roof.

Classification by degree of organization

In order for the result of the invested efforts to become a reason for well-founded pride, you need to understand the design subtleties and technological nuances drainage system.

According to the degree of organization, drainage systems are divided into two types:

Unorganized. According to the unorganized scheme, the flow of precipitation and the results of snow melting occurs freely. Along all areas of slopes, water simply flows onto the blind area, ground or paved path, persistently causing damage to the property that is initially imperceptible.
Organized. According to the organized scheme, all types atmospheric water, rushing down the slopes, are caught by water intake gutters or funnels. They are then transported through pipelines to points designated for the collection and disposal of stormwater.

Note that the SNiP regulation 06/31/2009 allows the use of an unorganized option in private construction. The regulations allow not to use a drainage system when arranging the roofs of one- and two-story cottages. True, cornice overhangs are narrower than the full 60 cm, but they are not supposed to be built, but entrance groups and balconies should be equipped with canopies without controversy.

An organized option is required for buildings with a height of three meters or more, but zealous owners do not refuse it when equipping one-story houses and domestic buildings. It's worthwhile if you put in the effort own hands not too expensive, and the benefits from it are quite real and economically tangible.

Organized drainage systems are, in turn, divided into internal and external options. characteristic of flat roofs. External ones are universal, they are successfully involved in the arrangement of almost all types of roofing structures. We will carefully study their design and installation technology.

Design specifics of gutters

All external water drainage systems from roofs of any type and steepness include two main components, these are:

Water intake devices. These include gutters, trays and funnels designed to directly collect water flowing from slopes.
Drainpipes. Vertical sections of drainage designed to drain collected water with its subsequent transfer to a storm sewer or with the discharge of wastewater to the ground outside the blind area.

In the external drainage family there is also a division into systems with wall-mounted, mounted and remote gutters, but the only difference is in the layout of the water intake device. The one we study is most in demand wall option as the simplest and most practical.

Hook-shaped brackets are used to attach drainage systems to the rafters, sheathing or front board of the roof being constructed. Clamps are used to secure horizontal sections of the drain. Together, a set of basic and fastening parts makes it possible to quickly and easily, like a designer, assemble and install a drain.

The choice of fasteners for fixing gutters depends on the type construction work(repair or new construction):

Long metal brackets are used when installing a drainage system before laying the covering. They are attached to the laths or rafter legs.
Short metal brackets are used in the process of carrying out repair work. They are fixed on the front board.
Plastic hooks are used when carrying out repairs or during new construction, if a plastic drainage system is being laid. The plastic parts are attached to the front board.

The brackets are fixed with anti-corrosion fasteners with wide caps with a diameter of no more than 8 mm. Fastening is done with galvanized screws, self-tapping screws with press washers, and ordinary roofing screws. The diameter of the working part of the fastener is at least 4.2 mm.

The installation step of the hooks determines the material from which the drain is made. For metal systems it varies from 60 cm to 90 cm, for copper circuits that are sensitive to deformation from 30 to 60 cm. Under plastic gutters, hook holders are installed every 50 - 60 cm.

The drainage system kit can be purchased fully assembled and ready for installation. Its modular elements are produced so that from individual components you can easily build a drain for a roof of any size and configuration with your own hands. Using industrial prototypes as a template, you can make elements from available and available materials, for example, from plastic bottles, roofing sheet or polymer sewer pipes.

Drainpipes and water intake devices come with round, rectangular and combined cross-sections. Rectangular and combined types have greater “throughput”. This characteristic is not very interesting for private owners, because for the arrangement of cottages, the option with an oval gutter is most often sufficient.

The size of the drainage system depends on the area of the roof being treated:

If the roof area does not exceed 70 m², then the gutter should be Ø 100 mm, and the Ø of the downpipes 75 mm.
If the roof area is in the range from 70 m² to 120 m², then a gutter is needed Ø 125 mm, drainpipes Ø 90 mm.

However, when choosing the shape and cross-section of the system, it is not necessary to focus only on specifications, because Gutters play a significant role in exterior design.

Materials used in production

The specific operation of external drains limits the choice of materials suitable for the manufacture of systems. It is clear that they will have to endure all the hardships of direct contact with atmospheric phenomena. This means that the elements of drains must be frost-resistant, “indifferent” to heavy rains, snow deposits and the scorching sun.

The following materials are used in the manufacture of drainpipes, water inlets and gutters:

Roofing steel. The priority is galvanized options, sheet thickness 0.63 mm or 0.7 mm.
Corrosion Resistant Roofing Steel. Similar to the previous position, but with a protective and decorative polymer shell. In production, rolled sheet metal with a thickness of 0.6 mm to 0.7 mm is used.
PVC. Light plastic gutters with a wall thickness of 2.2 mm to 3.3 mm are produced from polyvinyl chloride.
Aluminum. The systems are made from lightweight durable metal 0.8 mm thick. The decorative and protective functions of aluminum gutters are performed by a polymer shell.
Copper. An elite material that pleases with a service life of 150 - 200 years, but cools the dust at a respectable price. Wall thickness 0.6 mm.
Zinc-titanium. A new word in the production of gutters with excellent performance characteristics. The price tag is also unmerciful, but the promised 100 years of trouble-free service make us take a closer look at the specified sales position with interest. The thickness of the material used in the manufacture is 0.7 - 0.8 mm.

The choice of a drainage system based on the type of material is focused not only on personal preferences and financial opportunities future owner. To a greater extent, it depends on the type of roofing and architectural features of a private house.

Expensive copper and zinc-titanium options are appropriate on roofs with ceramic tiles, sheet copper roofing, slate tiles. Budget PVC is in perfect harmony with, steel gutters fit perfectly with metal tiles and corrugated sheets.

For purely economic reasons, gutters made of galvanized steel and PVC are most in demand. The first will last 10 years, the second 25 - 35 years, depending on the manufacturer’s assurances. It's hard to single out best option in terms of resistance to atmospheric attacks, because their performance characteristics are very similar. However, metal is preferred in the northern regions, and plastic in the temperate climate zone.

There are no particular differences in the design and installation sequence between steel and polymer gutters. Almost identical gutters, pipes, and funnels are supplemented with specially produced bends, couplings, tees, and plugs.

You only need to take into account the fact of linear expansion that occurs when the systems heat up. Polymer ones can elongate 5 times more than metal ones, the linear movements of which can be completely neglected.

DIY options

The elementary design of a gutter is unlikely to puzzle the home craftsman. Everything is extremely simple: after meticulously executed markings, rolled sheet metal must be cut into strips and bent according to the preferred cross-section configuration. Cutting and bending can be done by hand, but it is wiser to do it on a bending machine.

You'll have to tinker with the pipes. They can consist of several links depending on the height of the pipeline section and the size of the sheet. The algorithm for making your own drainpipes looks like this:

Open it up. It is carried out with special care and taking into account allowances for roller joints.
Formation of longitudinal edges. Bends are made along the allowance lines for roller seams.
Rolling out blanks. It is produced on roller machines or manually using a mandrel: a straight long pipe or bar.
Roller seam connection. The rolled out blanks are connected according to the markings and pressed onto the previously used mandrel.
Narrowing of one side of the link. They are narrowed by 5 - 6 mm so that the upper link fits freely into the lower element.
Formation of stiffening rollers. They are formed along the upper and lower edges of the links by rolling wire. Produced manually or using a zigging machine.
Assembling a drain riser.

Rolling out metal blanks will require the most effort if done manually. Each of the cut blanks is placed under a mandrel and, grasping the edges, is carefully bent in one place.

Having ensured that a sufficiently curved plane has been formed, the workpiece is moved 20º - 30º relative to the mandrel used. Then they bend it again until it takes the required configuration.

Making a drain from polymer sewer pipes is much simpler. They are produced with a fairly wide range of shaped parts suitable for the construction of full-fledged systems. In fact, the home craftsman will only need to make a gutter by dissolving a solid pipe into two symmetrical parts.

Personal assembly and installation

During new construction, the installation of drainage systems is carried out on a fully prepared continuous rough flooring, rafters or firmly fixed sheathing. All work on laying the foundation for laying the roof must be completed by the time the drain is constructed.

When carrying out repair restoration roofing system It is necessary to eliminate defects in advance or completely replace the frontal board.

Design and calculation rules

Before starting work, the drainage route must be thoroughly thought through and a laying diagram must be drawn. Design preparation will help to correctly calculate the consumption of pipes, gutters, the number of funnels and shaped parts. It’s better to try different options in advance on the drawing and decide how you can make an impeccable drain with your own hands, so that your own efforts and funds are properly invested.

The configuration of the drainage system in plan depends on the roof structure:

Gable roofs are equipped with two gutters along each eaves. If the length of the slope is no more than 12 m, one funnel is mounted on the gutter in a corner convenient for installing the drain riser. If more than 12 m, drainage funnels and one compression funnel are installed in both corners in the middle of the slope.
Single-pitch ones are equipped with one gutter. The number of water intake and compression funnels is calculated according to the standard rules for pitched planes, as in the previous paragraph.
Four-slope buildings are equipped with gutters around the perimeter. All corners are equipped with water inlet funnels. Long slopes are equipped with compression funnels, which are recommended to be positioned symmetrically relative to each other.

Compression funnels are needed to provide a reserve for linear expansion when the drain heats up. At the same time, they will play the role of a stiffener and prevent the long gutter from sagging.

The calculation of the number of rotating elements and drainpipes is purely individual. It all depends on the area of the roof being installed, the height of the building and the length of the slopes. Eat general rules assembly and installation of gutters, which should be taken into account regardless of the type of structure, system material, roof configuration and dimensions:

Installation of the drain is carried out according to the “top-down” scheme. First, the water intake part is assembled and installed: gutters with funnels, then drain risers.
Gutters must be installed with a slope in the direction of the water intake funnel. The slope is formed by lowering the system by 2-3 mm per linear meter.
The roof overhang must cover the gutter by 1/3 of its width, so that during heavy rainfall, drops do not overflow through the water intake device.
The outer edge of the gutter should be 2 cm below the line that conventionally continues the slope.
There should be 30 - 70 cm between the outer side of the front board and the edge of the cornice.

If it is not technically possible to install a gutter according to the specified distances, the roof must be equipped with snow protection.

When designing, it should be taken into account that fastening the clamps of the drain riser to a wall covered with siding can only be done on the sheathing.

Installation of the polymer version

Do not forget that polymer elements have the property of expanding when heated. Therefore, we retreat 5–10 cm from the edge of the front board on both sides, if the system is linear, and use compression parts on long slopes and corners.

Let's look at the simplest example of installing a drainage system on one slope with brackets attached to the front board. A gutter will be laid along the eaves overhang, ending in a corner convenient for collecting water with a water intake funnel with a riser attached to it.

The actions of an independent installer will proceed according to the following scheme:

Marking the frontal board. Mark the attachment point of the outer bracket under the gutter. Do not forget that it should be 3×N mm above the opposite point where the funnel will be located (N is the distance between the fastening points in m). We mark the point of the central axis of the funnel according to the calculations.
We install the outer bracket and funnel according to the markings. It is better to buy a funnel with a plug located on the required side of the water collector.
We stretch the twine between the established extreme points of the system. It will indicate the installation line for the intermediate brackets. The bracket closest to the funnel must be removed from it at the distance specified by the manufacturer (5 - 10 cm). According to the markings, we install intermediate brackets.
We install the gutter. Its elements are inserted into the far edge of the hooks and snap into place. Factory-fabricated parts have assembly direction markings, limiting edges, and alignment marks. temperature conditions, indicating in what position the parts should be connected at specific degrees. We work according to the manufacturer's instructions.
We equip the edge of the gutter with a plug. If you bought a funnel without a plug, then that too.

The assembly of the drainage riser is usually carried out after laying the roofing. The process can be roughly divided into three stages: construction of the transition to the riser, installation of the riser itself and connection of the outlet.

Final stages The drainage system is assembled as follows:

We put the adapter elbow on the funnel pipe. It should go all the way. To go into the drainage pipeline you will need two elbows with equal angle. Transition elbows are released at 67º or 45º.
We attach the second elbow to the wall at an equal angle. We measure the distance between them and cut the pipe to the resulting size. We cut with a hacksaw for metal, clean the cut from burrs.
We assemble the transition and fasten the lower elbow with a clamp.
On the facade, strictly under the funnel, we mark and fix the clamps for the drain riser. The standard distance between clamps is 1.5 m, maximum 1.7. But it should be so that there is at least one clamp for each section of pipe.
We mark a point for attaching the drain, the lower edge of which should be 25–40 cm above the ground surface.
We fix the clamps and assemble the drainage pipeline. The clamps should not be tightened all the way in order to leave the drainage system the opportunity to move slightly during linear expansion.

If couplings were used in the installation, the places where they are attached must be marked in order to secure additional clamps at the marked points. Do not forget that the drainage riser must be perfectly vertical, so markings along the facade are carried out using a plumb line.

Upon completion of the assembly and installation work, means of protecting it from clogging are installed. It is advisable to equip the gutter with a grid to prevent clogging from the penetration of debris and leaves. If the drainage system is too light or there is no suitable grate on sale, a mesh that looks like an inverted basket is placed over the funnel.

Video to help self-installers

Instructions for installing a plastic drainage system:

Specifics of assembly and installation of metal drainage:

Detailed demonstration of making a drain from sewer pipes:

You can handle the installation, assembly, and even manufacturing of the drainage system yourself. The main thing is to adhere to technological rules and comply with the manufacturer’s instructions.