How to drill a large hole straight. How to drill a hole straight with a drill How to drill a deep hole vertically in wood

In a home craftsman's workshop, an electric drill takes pride of place. This is the first power tool invented in the world. The indispensable tool for drilling holes continues to surprise with its possible applications. A real lifesaver that is very easy to use. Below we will talk about how to work with this tool, how to insert or remove a drill, and what else is possible.

Main functions of the tool

The main purpose of an electric drill is to drill holes in materials. It was for this purpose that Wilhelm Fein invented it in 1895.

Inside the plastic case there are components:

electric motor;
starting switch;
gearbox;
reverse;
retainer;
capacitor;
impact mechanism.

A chuck for attachments is attached to the shaft (spindle) of the drill using a thread and a fixing screw.

The fixed drill rotates both to the right and to the left. For this purpose, a reverse switch is placed on the housing. In this mode, you can only remove the drill from the hole or unscrew screws and screws. Turn on for a short period of time at reduced speed.

Drill operating modes

Many had to hammer into the wall with a bolt in order to hang a cornice or a picture. Now this is done with a drill, setting the correct operating mode.

Unstressed. Carpentry and plumbing work is carried out in this mode.
Shock. For working with concrete, brick or stone foundations. The rotating drill moves in the longitudinal direction and makes translational (impact) movements.

The speed of the drill differs for different tasks and is adjusted in two ways.

Mechanical. The desired position is set on the scale. As speed decreases, torque increases. The output power does not change, even under load. You can set the speed while the drill is running.
Electronic. The speed is controlled by a built-in rheostat. When you lightly press the switch key, the drill rotates at low speed. As you press harder, the speed increases until it reaches the set limit. The extreme value can be limited by a special wheel on the button. The output power with this method is reduced.

Drill fixation mechanism

It is difficult to work with a drill that is inserted incorrectly. It breaks or flies out, resulting in an uneven hole.

The drill has a jaw chuck. An adjusting ring moves along the surface of the hollow cylinder. The chuck is mounted on the drill shaft with a base with a threaded or tapered hole.

How to insert a drill into a chuck

Step 1: The chuck jaws are closed.

Step 2. Rotate the adjustment ring counterclockwise by hand. The jaws inside the chuck diverge to a distance slightly larger than the size of the drill.

Step 3. Insert the drill into the chuck to the full possible depth. The diameter of the clamped tool is allowed 2 - 13 mm.

Step 4. By rotating the adjusting ring clockwise by hand, tighten the drill.

Step 5. Insert the drill key into the hole on the chuck body so that the teeth on the key and the chuck are closed.

Step 6. With slight pressure, turn the key clockwise until it stops to securely fix the drill. There are 2 - 3 key holes, we insert them into each one in turn for uniform clamping.

Step 7. The drill is ready for use.

Before carrying out any maintenance work, remove the plug from the socket.
To avoid losing the key, craftsmen secure it with electrical tape to the drill wire.

Less commonly used is a quick-release jaw chuck, which is tightened without a key. It comes with one or two adjusting sleeves with anti-slip notches. If there is only one sleeve, hold the drill body motionless. If there are two sleeves, the part fixed to the spindle remains motionless. The moving part is turned by hand: when securing the drill clockwise, when removing it counterclockwise.

How to remove a drill from a chuck

The drill can only be removed from a disconnected tool.
While rotating, the drill and chuck become very hot. Do not touch them with bare hands immediately after switching off.

If there are no problems with the drill such as jamming or breakage, it is easy to remove it from the chuck. Operate in reverse ok.

The key is inserted into the holes of the cartridge one by one and turned slightly counterclockwise. The clenching of the fists weakens.
The adjusting ring is manually turned counterclockwise. The fists inside diverge.
Take out the drill.

If the drill has a locking mechanism, first press the locking button.

How to use a drill: basic rules

Beginning of work

Before turning on, check the plug and cord. If damaged, do not use the drill. The plug must fit tightly into the socket.
The side handle (if present) is put on the spindle and secured in any direction. She gives additional control above the instrument.
The drill is tightly fixed in the drill.
Set the switch to drilling/drilling mode.
To limit the depth, set and fix the position of the limiter.
The regulator sets the maximum speed.
There are drills with a drill diameter recognition function in the range of 3 - 13 mm. In this case, the automation takes into account the size of the drill and the material being processed. The optimal speed is determined by the autopilot. Automation cannot be used if the drill diameter is larger than the shank. Then the required speed is set manually.
Press the switch key. If the speed control is electronic, it is changed by smoothly pressing the trigger.

How to make a vertical, horizontal, corner hole in wood

During drilling, the workpiece or part is tightly clamped in a vice on a workbench or with clamps to the work table.
Under no circumstances should you hold the part with your hands; both hands must be free.

Holes with an electric drill in any material are drilled only at an angle of 90 0.

How to drill a vertical hole

Put the drill in drilling mode.
Select speed: the thinner the drill, the higher. The diameters of the drill and the screw shaft must be equal. Otherwise, the screw is difficult to insert and the wood will crack.
If the hole is through, it is good to place it under the workpiece wooden block. This will prevent the edges of the hole from splitting when the drill comes out.
If the hole is blind, its diameter and depth should be the same as that of a screw for screwing in. Even if you screw in self-tapping screws, light pre-drilling will make the job easier.
The drill enters the surface only at a right angle. Having fixed the tip of the drill in the wood, turn on the maximum speed to obtain a smooth edge of the hole. The higher the speed, the more accurately the drill moves and cuts the wood fibers.

Video: how to drill a perpendicular hole using homemade products

For a horizontal hole, only the workpiece is moved. If a hole at an angle is required, the desired position of the part is set in a vice. It is clamped rigidly and skewed so that the drill enters perpendicular to the surface.

If a hole is needed in a part non-standard shape(for example, cylindrical), prepare one or more gaskets. They fix the desired position of the workpiece in a vice and guide the drill (preferably with a centering tip) to the drilling point.

The drill only goes into flat surface. Professionals use a jig device for drilling at an angle, which is attached to the part.

You can make the simplest conductor yourself.

In a block 50 - 60 mm thick, drill a hole at an angle of 90 0 with a depth of no more than 5 mm.
Without removing the drill from the hole, change its direction to the desired angle. Pre-drilling will prevent it from slipping out. Drill the block to its full depth.
The primitive conductor is ready. The drilled hole will serve as a guide for the drill.

If masters do not want to use conductors, they invent for themselves convenient devices.

Video: angle drilling device

How to drill holes in concrete and brick foundations

If perpendicular holes are drilled at construction work, the support stand will ensure the precise direction of the drill. The drilling depth limiter will tell you when to stop. If it is not included with the drill, do it yourself. A wooden cube is “cut” onto the drill that will be used to work. The free area of the drill is equal to the required depth. Or they wrap electrical tape around the drill in front of such a section.

Only a rotary hammer can withstand a long load in shock mode. But for short-term work, a drill is suitable. To do this, set the shock mode and operate at high speeds. It is important to ensure that there are no hidden wiring or fittings in the wall or ceiling.

When drilling such surfaces, a lot of dust and debris gets onto the drill; it needs to be cleaned in a timely manner.
At the end of work, the cartridge is purged with a jet compressed air.

Drills marked “for concrete” with a carbide cutting part will quickly drill through walls or ceilings. It is optimal if they have a hex shank. Max diameter drilling in concrete 16 mm. If the holes are up to 8 mm, it is easy to work with diamond drills.

Video: hole in a concrete wall under the baseboard

To drill a large diameter hole (for an electrical outlet), use a ring bit.

When drilling brick, choose carbide drills with pobedit tip. Drill at high speeds in impact mode. It is important that no electrical wiring runs inside the masonry. The drilling site is marked with a center punch, and the tip of the drill is placed in the hole. Drill perpendicularly so as not to break the drill. The process requires gentle pressure on the drill and regular cooling of the drill cold water.

When using a drill in impact mode, safety glasses are required. They will protect your eyes from dust, pieces of concrete and brick.

How to drill metals

The maximum permissible drill diameter when working with steel is 13 mm.

For steel, choose drills marked “for metal”. If the part is small, secure it in a vice. Use a center punch to determine the drilling location and lightly hit it. A small depression is formed, and the end of the drill is placed into it at a right angle. Drill metal with constant pressure. If the metal is hard, drilling is slow. Soft metal is processed at medium speeds.

The drill is removed from the drilled metal without turning off the drill. It is turned off when it completely comes out of the hole.
Work with metal safety glasses, wearing tight-fitting clothing with long sleeves to protect yourself from sparks and sharp metal shavings.

For stainless steel, use drills marked “for stainless steel”. A simple drill immediately overheats during operation, and the viscous metal melts. Used for cooling special compounds based on sulfur and machine oil. The drill is set to minimum speed (100–600). If there is no smooth adjustment, drill gradually: start the tool for 1-2 seconds and immediately turn it off.

Video: how to drill metal correctly

After prolonged operation at low speed, the drill is switched to maximum speed. Let it idle for 2-3 minutes to cool down.

For cast iron, use drills “for cast iron” with special sharpening. But they are difficult to find, so they choose carbide drills for metal. Cast iron is a hard material, but if handled carelessly, it splits easily. The selected place is cleared. Drilling begins with a small diameter at low speed, constantly cooling the drill with kerosene or water-based solution. Haste and increased pressure will only do harm.

Excessive pressure damages the instrument. It is better to start drilling with small drill diameters or with less pressure on the drill.

For the channel, you need metal drills from 3.5 mm to the required one in increments of 2–3 mm. The holes for the drill are filled with a center punch. Drill with light pressure, starting with a smaller diameter, gradually drilling out the hole. Drills are constantly lubricated with machine oil. Diamond drill bits are easier to use.

How to make a groove in wood

The workpiece is securely secured in a vice or clamp to avoid twisting and prevent accidents. It is strictly forbidden to hold it in your hands.

You can make a clean, smooth, even groove only with a milling cutter. In the absence of a milling machine, craftsmen attach a cutter from a router with a shank with a diameter of 8 mm into a drill. The spindle speed of the drill is not enough for serious machining. This option is only suitable for rough work.

An attachment for drilling wood will help you make gutters and channels. The six-edge serrated drill drills at high speed. The wood does not split, the surface remains smooth. Drilling takes place in three directions and is successful where simple drills fail.

For small rough grooves, a special drill bit with longitudinal cutting edges and transverse cuts is used.

Video: drill bit in action

DIY method

They are used when there are no cutters or such a drill.

Markings are made on the workpiece and a furrow is simply drilled, controlling the depth. If the drill is with electronic adjustment, start at low speeds. When this function is not available, special wood drills are used. They are spiral, made of high-strength steel and have a point for centering. The tip of the drill is fixed in the wood and the maximum speed is turned on.

Jumpers remain between the holes, which are then removed with a chisel and cleaned sanding paper.

For holes with a diameter of 10–32 mm, ring drills are used.

How to drill tiles

Sometimes you need a hole in a lined wall tiles. Tiles, tiles and other materials that crack should not be drill in impact mode. If the hole is small, use a drill for glass and tiles to drill ceramic tiles all the way. Then insert a concrete drill and continue working in hammer drill mode. For a large hole, drill the tile with a diamond-coated core drill, then continue working on the concrete.

Why are sparks in a drill dangerous?

An electric drill, like any other power tool, requires systematic maintenance. Spare parts wear out during operation and the lubricant dries out.

Drill brushes require regular replacement. One of the manifestations of the problem is that at normal network voltage the electric motor does not work. A bright signal is the formation of a circular fire on the collector. The spectacle is beautiful, but dangerous. In order not to ruin the anchor of the drill, they are changed. It is advisable to buy original ones, not Chinese ones. With them the tool will last much longer.

Please note: brushes are not universal. If you don't know what size you need, take an old one with you as a sample.

The design of the drill allows you to replace the brushes yourself. There are models in which there are installation windows for brushes on the body. Replacement is simple:

The plugs are unscrewed from the installation windows.
Remove worn brushes.
New brushes are installed.
Screw in the plugs.

Other models require minimal disassembly of the drill:

Remove all screws on the housing. Remove the cover. It is more convenient to leave the screws in their “native” places.
Take out the brush holders and remove the worn brushes from them.
Insert new brushes, pushing the spring firmly into place.
Insert the brush holders into place, tighten the electrical contact of the supply wire well.
Close the housing cover and tighten the screws.

Video: how to replace brushes

Nozzles: saving effort and money

If we make a rating of power tools for which manufacturers produce additional attachments and accessories, the electric drill is the leader. The drilling tool turns into a multifunctional machine for repair work. She saws, cuts, mills, grinds and does much more. In terms of performance, it will not fully replace every tool, but short-term tasks home handyman decides.

To operate, the shank of the attachment is clamped in the drill chuck, like a simple drill, and the drilling mode is set.

Sanding and polishing

For grinding, use an attachment for wheels with Velcro, where abrasive wheels of different grain sizes are attached. Metal and wood are polished with cups or discs. IN hard to reach places use a fan nozzle.

A file attachment is a pin that is attached at one end to a chuck. On the other it has a solder in the form of a cone, bullet or ball. They are called cutters. The holes are bored and polished using a nozzle. For rough grinding and deburring, rasp attachments are used.

The drill becomes an electric sharpener with special attachments. The sharpening angle is adjustable, you can sharpen anything: drills, chisels, disc blades.

Properly sharpened drills provide quality drilling, are less likely to jam, and preserve the tool.

Polishing attachments: soft felt, special for cars, polishing leather ends and others. To work with rotation in any direction, select a speed of 1000 revolutions.

Scissor attachment for drill “Cricket”

With this attachment, the drill becomes a nibbler for thin sheet metal, corrugated sheets and plastic. The shank is attached to the drill chuck. It has two cutting heads that are set at the desired degree. At a rotation speed of 3000 rpm it produces a burr-free cut. You can sharply change the direction of the cut to make shaped parts.

Video: Cricket attachment in action

Attachments that make it easier

Corner. Works in hard-to-reach places as a drill and a screwdriver.

Drywall cutters. Used when installing sockets, distribution boxes.

Flexible shaft. One side is attached to the drill chuck, and the drill chuck is on the other end. Drills where a drill cannot cope without such an attachment.

How else to use a drill

Like a drill press

A well-equipped home workshop must include a stand for an electric drill. Only using this guide attachment, they make complex work. For example, a hole is drilled with extreme precision, down to tenths of a millimeter. A drill stand with a drill attached turns into a drilling machine.

Necessary when working with hard materials that are difficult to process. Without a strict direction, the drill does not plunge into depth, but only scratches such a surface.

A stand with a rotation of the working head or clamping device by 90 0 or 360 0 is preferable.

If the movable tripods are firmly fixed on the work table, they drill both perpendicularly and at the desired angle to the surface of the workpiece. In addition, tripods keep the drill from moving to the side. The set screws will help you accurately maintain the specified drilling depth.

The drill is clamped into the stand - a compact home drilling machine with a smooth feed is ready for work. Manufacturers allow the use of only tools marked “professional”.

Video: homemade stand for electric drill

If you attach a milling machine with an overhead spindle to a stand, you will get a homemade milling machine.

Like a screwdriver

A drill easily replaces a screwdriver. To work with screws, screws, or remove jammed attachments, turn on the reverse stroke. Screws and bolts are tightened at low speed.

Be careful, the drill may slip when tightening long screws.

The directions of rotation are switched using the reverse lever after stopping the drill.

Drill as a mixer

Manufacturers produce mixer attachments for drills that mix liquid and powdery materials from the bottom up. The drill will handle a volume of no more than 10 liters. It is better not to practice this regime for a long time. Not suitable for heavy concrete mixtures.

It is better to use special drill mixers. Their design has additional handles. The intended purpose is precisely mixing mixtures. It comes with attachments and works for a long time without overheating. Like a drill, it only supports drilling mode. The price of such units is much higher.

Drill: Unexpected Use

An electric drill is bought for drilling. Then they discover new wonderful application ideas.

Cut steel cable, copper and aluminum cable with a sector nozzle.
Remove dust by connecting the dust extraction attachment to the vacuum cleaner.
Cut threads in blind holes without fear of breaking the tap, using minimal torque.
Calibrate PP-R pipes calibrator attachment.
Pump and pump out liquids using a pump attachment.
Pluck the bird. The soft striking fingers of the attachment do not damage the skin.
Cream the honey using a stainless steel attachment similar to a mixer.

Video: interesting homemade products for electric drills

Proper handling prolongs life

In order for a home electric station wagon to help for many years, a number of rules must be followed.

Not allowed mechanical damage(blows, falls).
Constant overload mode is dangerous. When the light is on, the power tool is operating at its maximum capacity.
Avoid prolonged continuous work. A non-professional instrument needs frequent rest. The temperature of the body is periodically checked: if you cannot hold your palm on it, the drill is turned off. They recommend 15 minutes of work, then a break until the temperature of the drill matches the ambient temperature. Total time work per day is 4 - 5 hours, the intervals of switching on and respite are approximately the same.
Do not use in rain or snow, or in very dusty areas.
Rooms with an aggressive or explosive environment can have a dangerous effect on drill parts. The power tool generates sparks and may ignite dust or fumes.
Work with caution in the area of electrical wiring.
The drill is turned on and off at idle speed.
The drill is not released from your hands until the rotation of the chuck has completely stopped, so as not to lose control over it.
After work, remove dirt and dust from ventilation holes on the motor housing.
During long breaks in operation, the chuck and spindle are covered with a layer of preservative lubricant (technical petroleum jelly).

How do drills usually differ from each other? Power, modes, speed and dialing additional functions. They are different: miniature and large, battery-powered and powered, made of cheap plastic and with fancy anti-slip inserts. But each of them is a queen in the kingdom of home power tools.

Hi all!
I don’t know about anyone, but drilling a hole with a diameter larger than 10 mm is sheer hard labor. The hole, and there is no other way to call it, after drilling takes the shape of the USSR quality mark. Next, armed with a file or needle file, I begin to level it to the desired diameter and maximum circumference. But it turns out to be a very unround hole. Oh, how many cases have I ruined.... Somehow, while wandering through the departments of the OBI store, I came across step drill BOSCH company.

Well, I think it’s not bad... From 4 to 20 mm. But the price! almost 2500 rub. It bites:) Well, he licked his lips and moved on. More than a year has passed, and while once again studying the assortment on the well-known AliExpress website, I came across this thing.

And for such a set, the respected Ivy Khan wanted only 485 rubles. 73 kopecks Well, I think the price is small and if the drills are made of plasticine, it wouldn’t be a shame to throw them away. Drill sizes:
1. 4-12mm pitch 2mm 2. 4-20mm pitch 2mm 3. 4-32mm pitch 2mm Today I went to the post office and received the parcel. Unpacked. It looks like nothing. We must try it. I decided to carry out the tests on a duralumin corner with a wall thickness of 2 mm. The task is to install a motor for a CNC drilling machine on a corner. Go. Here is a corner with a prepared 6 mm hole. (This corner is for experiments)

I take the largest drill, since it has a diameter of 22 mm. and within 1 minute I slowly drill out to 22 mm.

By the way, there’s a motor with a 22 mm flange that needs to be mounted on a corner.

Now we apply the motor. And lo and behold! Just like in a pharmacy, there’s not even any play!

Summary:
If the drill can withstand the duralumin corner, then it will be simply superb for plastic cases. Of the minuses, the drill is straight, unlike BOSCH. If you make the drill a little twisted, it will be easier to transition from one diameter to another. Well, I think for 2000 rubles. You can be patient.
So I advise everyone who gets holes instead of holes)))

Drilling a hole straight at a 90 degree angle is not an easy task. It may take a lot of effort to keep the drill level and vertical. BullseyeBore suggests doing this using several laser concentric rings.

The BullseyeBore drill uses a simple red laser to project three rings onto the surface where you intend to drill. To keep the drill as level as possible during the process, watch the three rings. The inner two will remain in the same position no matter how the drill is tilted, but the outer one can move. By aligning the position of the largest ring relative to the two smaller ones, you will ensure that the drill is in a strictly vertical position, and the hole will turn out just perfect.

In addition, concentric rings can provide information about the depth of the hole. The distance between the large and middle circles will precisely indicate the drilling depth. If at the beginning there is a picture like this:

In the middle of the process the circles will come closer together:

And in the end they will simply merge:

The attachment looks like a small transparent disk with a connector for easy installation on any drill. Lasers, optics and batteries are already built inside. The disc is smooth, lightweight and impact resistant.

Manufacturers are now developing a model where all the filling will be implanted into the drill chuck.

You can find out more about the project.

A smart accessory will prevent you from drilling crookedly

In the middle of the process the circles will come closer together:

And in the end they will simply merge:

Manufacturers are now developing a model where all the filling will be implanted into the drill chuck.

You can find out more about the project here.

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How to drill correctly: drilling from “a” to “z”

How to choose a drill
Drill
What and how to drill

Drilling is one of the most frequently performed operations by home craftsmen. And any master has encountered problems when drilling, especially if the work is delicate. And delicate work most often occurs: the drill is missing half a millimeter - the furniture door is skewed or a simple towel hook in the bathroom is askew, and it is impossible to re-drill: the tiles have just been laid. Grace and “oakiness” are incompatible, so you need to know how to drill correctly with a drill.

Safety

In terms of electrical safety, commercially available power tools belong to class II: double working insulation, use without additional grounding is permissible, i.e. Such a drill can be plugged into a regular, non-European socket through an adapter. At “iron bazaars” you can find class I (“industrial”) tools with a grounding terminal on a metal body. It is dangerous to use it in everyday life, and its chuck is most often used for a drill with a conical shank (Morse taper), unsuitable for rotary impact drilling. Therefore, do not buy such a drill, even if it is powerful and inexpensive.

Class I is indicated on the nameplate of the drill, and if there is no designation, the body is partially or completely plastic, and the cord with a Euro plug is a class II tool. III class – power tools operating voltage up to 42 V (low voltage) can be recognized by the class designation on the nameplate and by a special plug with flat, cross-positioned contacts. It is suitable for home use, but inconvenient: you need a powerful step-down transformer.

For protection against foreign objects and moisture, power tools and equipment are marked with the letters IP (Ingress Protection) with two numbers after them: the first - from foreign objects, the second - from moisture. If the protection for any position is zero, the letter X is placed instead of the corresponding number. Thus, an IP32 drill can be used outdoors in good weather; IPХ2 - only inside, IP34 - outside in fog and drizzling rain, and IP68 can work during the Samum in the Sahara and under water.

Important: the first number 2 means that the device is finger-resistant; for example, a household socket has a degree of protection of IP22. But this in no way means that if you grab a drill chuck with the same degree of protection with your hand while working, it will stop on its own. The IP standard is not fool proof.

The regular three-jaw chuck is accurate and good at rotary drilling. When using a rotary impact drill, it quickly becomes loose, and the chuck itself loses accuracy and may completely fail: the threaded race of the cam mechanism bursts. For work on hard, brittle materials, the three-jaw chuck is suitable for occasional use or with a diamond working body in rotation-only mode.

In a quick-release chuck (you can recognize it by its corrugated plastic collar), the drill is clamped by a collet. Such a chuck holds the drill better during impact-rotary drilling, but is less accurate for fine work of little use. Powerful drills are equipped with a two-sleeve collet chuck– clamping and loosening are carried out by different rings.

The SDS cartridge (Steck-Dreh-Sitzt, German “inserted-turned-sits” or Special Direct System, special direct system, English) was invented by Bosh. SDS is ideal for construction work: the system of shaped grooves, see figure, absolutely securely fixes the working element according to the principle of a Chinese puzzle; Replacing the drill is done with just two light movements.

Unfortunately, SDS is not suitable for metalworking and carpentry: the centering accuracy of the drill is insufficient. An adapter from a three-jaw chuck to an SDS makes no sense: it will become loose from vibration, just like a regular drill. Therefore, the SDS drill is incompatible with the conventional working tool fit.

Note: SDS fit comes in three types: SDS+, SDS Top and SDS Max. SDS Top is rarely used, as an intermediate and generally unsuccessful option; SDS+ is designed for one-handed tools weighing up to 5 kg; SDS Max – for heavy two-handed.

Power and speed

Buying a rotary impact drill for general works, no need to save on power. Power reserve is needed to create the required torque at low speeds. External characteristics a commutator electric motor with sequential excitation used in drills is close to ideal, but the low-power motor at low speeds overheats from the high current. It is also advisable to purchase, if not included, a front slip handle.

The maximum speed of the drill is also important. The diamond tool is literally “eaten up” before our eyes at a rotation speed of less than 1600-1700 rpm; its normal operating speed is from 2500 rpm. Carbide tools require at least 1500 rpm. If you come across a drill at 600-1200 rpm, this is a special tool for work general purpose unsuitable.

For precision work on metal, a simple, rotation-only, low-power drill - 120-200 W - is best suited. A stand that turns the drill into a tabletop drilling machine will be very useful. And if you also fork out money for a rotary table for the bed, then you can mill small parts with a dental bur.

Mains or battery?

A home craftsman needs a cordless drill in two cases:

If you work on the side, this is your more or less regular extra income.
If you have a non-electrified cottage or garage.

In any case, an expensive professional drill with a lithium battery and a charging time of 10-20 minutes is unlikely to pay for itself. This is an option for professionals who work full shifts day after day. A regular alkaline battery, charged in 4-8 hours, will suit you. In extreme cases, you can “pump it up” to a hole or two in half an hour.

Section summary

All of the above can be reduced to the following recommendations:

Regular construction work, including metal structures - you need a hammer drill and an impact drill of 350 W or higher.
Occasional household work – rotary impact drill from 250 W.
For precision drilling - an additional precision drill for rotary drilling at 120-150 W; preferably with a stand.

Drill

The following types of drill bits are most commonly used:

Spiral - are made of tool steel, coated with carbide, with a carbide insert and solid carbide. Used for all types of work on any materials.
Spade bits can be used to drill wood, MDF and plastic. Allows you to drill large diameter holes. They are made either in one piece or in the form of a set of a shank with a groove and several inserts different diameters. This set is cheaper than a set of solid nibs, but less accurate.
Crowns (crowns) are used for excavating holes in hard brittle materials - stone, concrete and drilling wide holes in chipboard and fiberboard. Available with or without a centering twist drill. The latter are cheaper, but are only suitable for stone and require strong working skills.
A circular drill (centre drill, ballerina drill) is used to drill large-diameter holes in thin, durable but fragile materials with a decorative front surface, such as tiles or polished decorative rock. The drilling diameter of the circular drill can be changed smoothly. Rotary impact drilling with a circular drill is unacceptable.
Diamond drills are thin-walled tubes made of a special alloy coated with diamond. They can be used to drill glass, polished decorative stone, and glazed ceramic tiles. Roads require careful handling and precise adherence to drilling technology.

Drill sharpening

Self-sharpening of drills is acceptable for twist and feather drills. The first ones are sharpened with a diamond file - they are made of tool steel. Cheap sets can be made from regular carbon steel; their feathers can be straightened with a regular file.

Spiral drills are sharpened with an emery wheel (carbide - diamond) using a device - a wedge with an angle of 180 degrees minus half the sharpening angle. So, with a sharpening angle of 120 degrees, the wedge angle is needed at 30 degrees. In the hypotenuse (oblique side) of the wedge, a longitudinal hollow is made or blind hole, in which the drill is smoothly rotated when sharpening. The best sharpening is achieved using a fine (“velvet”) hand grinder. emery wheel, see fig. below.

For different materials you need different sharpening angles for the drill. Metal is most often drilled with drills with a sharpening angle of 116 degrees, concrete and stone - 90 degrees, wood - 60-90 degrees. The exact angles and sharpening methods for different types of drill bits for different materials can be found in material processing reference manuals.

About hard alloys

Carbide alloys for drills are made based on boron, tungsten or zirconium compounds. The cheapest ones are based on boron, but such a drill will take concrete with great difficulty and will wear out quickly. Such drills are marked “by stone”. Drill with them decorative materials You can’t - the edges of the hole will chip. Tungsten and zirconium compounds differ primarily in their durability: zirconium compounds last longer. They cost more accordingly.

What and how to drill

Whenever drilling, the hole locations must be marked. For metal this is done with a center punch, and for glass, ceramics and stone - either with a special diamond center punch, or with half a pobedit roller from an old glass cutter, clamped into a homemade holder. Marking (more precisely, scratching with rotation) hole marks in fragile hard materials must be done manually. Now let's move directly to drilling technology.

Steel, brass, bronze, massive duralumin

Drilling of metal of normal viscosity is carried out at medium drill speeds, 400-1000 rpm depending on the hole diameter: 400 revolutions - with a maximum drill diameter of 13 mm for a conventional drill; 1000 – with a diameter of 3 mm. For smaller diameters, the speed is again reduced to the same 400 rpm for 1 mm.

We mean maximum speed at idle. During the drilling process, the regulator itself will reduce them according to the tool feed, i.e. according to how hard you lean on it. Selection of feed at manual drilling by weight requires a certain skill: if the feed is too small, crumbs will form, the hole will end up with uneven walls. And from the same crumbs the drill will overheat and quickly become dull.

If the feed is excessive, so-called drain chips will form - thick, curling in a spiral. The result is the same. To develop serving skills faster, you even need small holes drill with two hands, with a slip handle. The chips should be thin and fragile. For steels 42 and 44 (regular structural steels), chips with a bluish tarnish color are acceptable.

Bronze and some types of duralumin require special attention: they do not produce flush chips at all, and duralumin sharply loses strength when heated above 160 degrees. It is permissible to monitor bronze by its tarnish: its appearance is undesirable. The duralumin needs to be cooled with liquid machine oil: if it boils, you need to press it lightly.

You can set the idle speed by clicking the regulator. If the drill is at 2800 rpm, and the regulator gives 14 clicks from edge to edge, then 1 click is 200 rpm. The adjusting characteristic of the regulator is not always linear, so you need to carefully monitor the drilling process and then make the necessary correction: know at what clicks of this particular tool you need to drill a given material.

Note: When drilling steel and brass, no lube is needed, it will only prevent proper chips from forming.

Sheet metal

For the same materials, but sheet materials, so that drilling does not lead to bending of the sheet, two methods can be recommended:

When drilling from the bed, give more revolutions, up to 1500-2000, and quickly “pierce” the sheet, which should lie on a wooden pad. To prevent the sheet from turning and injuring you, it must be secured with nails driven into the cushion at its edges, or pressed to the table with a clamp; better - two.
When drilling by weight, as soon as you feel increased resistance to feed (this means that the drill is about to come out), you need to drill a hole on the other side, pressing the “pimples” inside with a center punch.

But radical way get in thin sheet metal wide hole with a regular drill– first drill a hole with a diameter equal to the thickness of the sheet, then in one or three steps expand it to the diameter of the required hole minus double the thickness of the metal, and drill cleanly. Each subsequent hole should be wider than the previous one by twice the thickness of the metal. The maximum permissible diameter is 5-6 metal thicknesses. That is, in a 2 mm sheet you can drill a hole with a diameter of 13 mm, and it will be round, and not like a triangle with very smooth corners.

Aluminum

Aluminum is a soft metal, very viscous and fusible: its melting point is only 660 degrees. Because of this, when drilling, it may melt on the cutting edge, the hole will spread out, its edges will bulge and the drill will bite. Therefore, when drilling aluminum, the speed should be one and a half times less than for other metals, cool the drill with liquid machine oil, emulsion or water, and feed the tool little by little, without interference.

The drill bit for aluminum must be sharp, factory sharpened or sharpened on a special machine. Hand-sharpened drills are not suitable for aluminum.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is drilled in the same way as structural steel, but with a solid carbide drill bit sharpened for metal. Such drills are very fragile, so the tool must be fed easily and without the slightest distortion. It is best to drill with a low-power precision drill in a stand.

Wood, MDF and plastic

Industrial wood is drilled with a twist drill or a feather drill, sharpened to look like wood. Dense woods (oak, beech, walnut) can be drilled with a core bit and a centering drill. Drill revolutions are 400-600 for a twist drill and 200-500 for feathers and crowns.

Drilling of plastic windows, MDF, plastic tiles and polished wood are produced either with a special wood drill (with shaped sharpening and a centering threaded cone) or with solid feather drills. In the latter case, a centering hole of 3-5 mm is drilled in advance; it can be drilled with a regular drill. The revolutions are the same as for industrial wood; The feed is easy, without pressure.

Concrete and reinforced concrete

Drilling of concrete is carried out using special drills for concrete with a super-hard solder or liner, using a rotary impact method at medium or 2/3 of the maximum speed of the drill. The best option is an SDS drill. If reinforced concrete is drilled, then the drill hitting the reinforcement most often leads to its damage: the hard tip gets chipped. Therefore, before drilling reinforced concrete, it is highly advisable to determine the location of the reinforcement using a reinforcement detector; This device works on the principle of a metal detector.

Drilling holes in the walls for socket boxes is done with a stone crown (for brick walls) or concrete, with the same precautions in the case of reinforced concrete. If the hole is drilled with a crown without a centering drill, then it is applied tightly, without distortion, to the wall, pressed, and with sharp, quick pressure, turn on the drill.

There is a special tool and technology for through-drilling walls, but this is the subject of a separate description.

Ceramics and stone

How to drill tiles is, without exaggeration, a whole science. The material is decorative; chipping of the edges of the hole is unacceptable. They drill into already laid tiles, so cracking is also unacceptable. By smooth surface the drill can easily slip off, which is again unacceptable. Drilling - only by rotation.

Drilling ceramic tiles is done as follows:

A hole with a diameter larger than the thickness of the centering drill web is punched manually with a diamond or carbide center punch; its diameter is 2.5-3 mm. When drilling a large diameter hole, the diameter of the centering drill should be equal to the diameter of the centering rod of the compass drill.
A centering hole is drilled using a concrete drill. When drilling holes for dowels up to 6 mm, you can immediately drill clean.
Using a concrete finishing drill, the hole is finally drilled.

Porcelain tiles are drilled in the same way as ceramic tiles. Drill speed is maximum, except for drilling with a circular drill; serving – light, minimal. It is advisable to provide continuous cooling working area water. You cannot cool the tiles with oil - when heated, it can ruin the decorative surface.

Drilling ceramics with a circular drill requires special care and steady hands: misalignment is unacceptable, and the drill is not balanced. Even experienced workers need to drill with a cetrobur with both hands, placing the front handle on the drill. The revolutions are higher, but not more than 900, because with large ones, an unbalanced drill will break the hole and chip off its edges.

Video: how to drill tiles

Solid stone and glass

Glass, granite and other brecciated (grainy) hard stone with quartz inclusions should be drilled with a diamond drill bit. This is a job for an ace and virtuoso of drilling. A low-power precision drill is set to maximum speed, tried on, aligned horizontally and vertically by eye, immediately turned on “full” and slowly, smoothly inserted the drill into the material. Pressure and distortion are unacceptable.

If the piece being processed can be laid on a table, then glass and stone can be drilled from the bed using the ancient Egyptian method: with a copper tube and quartz (not sea shell) sand:

A roller 1-1.5 cm high is made from plasticine or putty around the drilling site.
Fine powder is poured into the formed hole. quartz sand and moisten it to a liquid paste.
The drill chuck is filled with a flat, thin-walled copper tube.
The drill is set to MINIMUM speed.
Drill with a series of short, light pecks with the lightest pressure. Sand eats into copper, and the tips of its grains, which have the greatest strength, gnaw the material.

Note: You won't get the exact diameter, but you will get a matte spot around the hole.

Video: examples of glass drilling at home

Holes in pipes

If a piece of pipe can be laid in the center or clamped in a vice, then it is better to drill with a precision drill from the bed. If you have to drill by weight, then after punching the mark must be expanded to a diameter exceeding the thickness of the drill bridge. For metal, this can be done with a carbide drill, rotating it with your fingers with light pressure; on PVC - with the tip of a penknife.

Then the tip of the main drill is inserted into the hole with the drill turned off, the tool is leveled and tried on, as when drilling tiles, lightly pressed and turn on the drill, gradually increasing the speed. If the hole diameter is more than 1/5 of the pipe diameter, then first drill a centering hole 2-4 mm in diameter. In general, with some skill, drilling holes in pipes is not a difficult job. You just need to be careful: when drilling while hanging, the drill, if it splashes, can damage the wall or furniture.

Square holes

Is it possible to drill square holes? Yes, you can if you use a drill in the form of the so-called Renault triangle - simplest figure, as mathematicians say, of constant width. Renault drills come complete with a fixing frame; it is attached to the drill with a rod and clamp. The corners of the hole will be rounded, but the unnoticed area of the hole will be only 2%.

However, you can only drill square holes with a drill in wood, plywood and not very durable plastic: such drilling requires a lot of power, and enormous lateral forces arise on the tool. Square holes metal is drilled on special machines, but ceramics and stone cannot be drilled this way at all: lateral forces will tear the part into pieces.

Somehow piercing a clumsy hole with a drill is a simple matter. But drilling a smooth, round and neat hole is a job for a real master, knowledgeable, intelligent and with skillful hands.

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How to use a drill: how to remove and insert the drill, what to do if the drill brushes spark, video instructions

Main functions of the tool

The main purpose of an electric drill is to drill holes in materials. It was for this purpose that Wilhelm Fein invented it in 1895.

Inside the plastic case there are components:

electric motor;
starting switch;
gearbox;
reverse;
retainer;
capacitor;
impact mechanism.

A chuck for attachments is attached to the shaft (spindle) of the drill using a thread and a fixing screw.

Drill equipment

Drill operating modes

Many had to hammer into the wall with a bolt in order to hang a cornice or a picture. Now this is done with a drill, setting the correct operating mode.

Unstressed. Carpentry and plumbing work is carried out in this mode.
Shock. For working with concrete, brick or stone foundations. The rotating drill moves in the longitudinal direction and makes translational (impact) movements.

The speed of the drill differs for different tasks and is adjusted in two ways.

Mechanical. The desired position is set on the scale. As speed decreases, torque increases. The output power does not change, even under load. You can set the speed while the drill is running.
Electronic. The speed is controlled by a built-in rheostat. When you lightly press the switch key, the drill rotates at low speed. As you press harder, the speed increases until it reaches the set limit. The extreme value can be limited by a special wheel on the button. The output power with this method is reduced.

Drill fixation mechanism

It is difficult to work with a drill that is inserted incorrectly. It breaks or flies out, resulting in an uneven hole.

The drill has a jaw chuck. An adjusting ring moves along the surface of the hollow cylinder. The chuck is mounted on the drill shaft with a base with a threaded or tapered hole.

How to insert a drill into a chuck

Step 1: The chuck jaws are closed.

Closed chuck jaws

Step 2. Rotate the adjustment ring counterclockwise by hand. The jaws inside the chuck diverge to a distance slightly larger than the size of the drill.

Turn the ring counterclockwise by hand

Step 3. Insert the drill into the chuck to the full possible depth. The diameter of the clamped tool is allowed 2 - 13 mm.

Insert the drill between the cams

Step 4. By rotating the adjusting ring clockwise by hand, tighten the drill.

Rotate the adjusting ring clockwise

Step 5. Insert the drill key into the hole on the chuck body so that the teeth on the key and the chuck are closed.

Insert the key into the holes of the cartridge

Step 6. With slight pressure, turn the key clockwise until it stops to securely fix the drill. There are 2 - 3 key holes, we insert them into each one in turn for uniform clamping.

Turn the key clockwise until it stops

Step 7. The drill is ready for use.

View of a drill with a fixed drill bit

Before carrying out any maintenance work, remove the plug from the socket.

To avoid losing the key, craftsmen secure it with electrical tape to the drill wire.

How to remove a drill from a chuck

The drill can only be removed from a disconnected tool.

While rotating, the drill and chuck become very hot. Do not touch them with bare hands immediately after switching off.

If there are no problems with the drill such as jamming or breakage, it is easy to remove it from the chuck. Valid in reverse order.

The key is inserted into the holes of the cartridge one by one and turned slightly counterclockwise. The clenching of the fists weakens.
The adjusting ring is manually turned counterclockwise. The fists inside diverge.
Take out the drill.

If the drill has a locking mechanism, first press the locking button.

How to use a drill: basic rules

Beginning of work

Before turning on, check the plug and cord. If damaged, do not use the drill. The plug must fit tightly into the socket.
The side handle (if present) is put on the spindle and secured in any direction. It gives additional control over the instrument.
The drill is tightly fixed in the drill.
Set the switch to drilling/drilling mode.
To limit the depth, set and fix the position of the limiter.
The regulator sets the maximum speed.
There are drills with a drill diameter recognition function in the range of 3 - 13 mm. In this case, the automation takes into account the size of the drill and the material being processed. The optimal speed is determined by the autopilot. Automation cannot be used if the drill diameter is larger than the shank. Then the required speed is set manually.
Press the switch key. If the speed control is electronic, it is changed by smoothly pressing the trigger.

How to make a vertical, horizontal, corner hole in wood

During drilling, the workpiece or part is tightly clamped in a vice on a workbench or with clamps to the work table.

Under no circumstances should you hold the part with your hands; both hands must be free.

Holes with an electric drill in any material are drilled only at an angle of 900.

How to drill a vertical hole

Put the drill in drilling mode.
Select speed: the thinner the drill, the higher. The diameters of the drill and the screw shaft must be equal. Otherwise, the screw is difficult to insert and the wood will crack.
If the hole is through, it is good to place a wooden block under the workpiece. This will prevent the edges of the hole from splitting when the drill comes out.
If the hole is blind, its diameter and depth should be the same as that of a screw for screwing in. Even if you screw in self-tapping screws, light pre-drilling will make the job easier.
The drill enters the surface only at a right angle. Having fixed the tip of the drill in the wood, turn on the maximum speed to obtain a smooth edge of the hole. The higher the speed, the more accurately the drill moves and cuts the wood fibers.

Video: how to drill a perpendicular hole using homemade products

Bench vice with spacers

If a hole is needed in a part of a non-standard shape (for example, cylindrical), prepare one or more gaskets. They fix the desired position of the workpiece in a vice and guide the drill (preferably with a centering tip) to the drilling point.

The drill only goes into a flat surface. Professionals use a jig device for drilling at an angle, which is attached to the part.

Jig for drilling holes at an angle

You can make the simplest conductor yourself.

In a block 50 - 60 mm thick, drill a hole at an angle of 900 with a depth of no more than 5 mm.
Without removing the drill from the hole, change its direction to the desired angle. Pre-drilling will prevent it from slipping out. Drill the block to its full depth.
The primitive conductor is ready. The drilled hole will serve as a guide for the drill.

If craftsmen do not want to use conductors, they come up with convenient devices for themselves.

Video: angle drilling device

How to drill holes in concrete and brick foundations

If perpendicular holes are drilled during construction work, a support post will ensure precise direction of the drill. The drilling depth limiter will tell you when to stop. If it is not included with the drill, do it yourself. A wooden cube is “cut” onto the drill that will be used to work. The free area of the drill is equal to the required depth. Or they wrap electrical tape around the drill in front of such a section.

Only a rotary hammer can withstand a long load in shock mode. But for short-term work, a drill is suitable. To do this, set the shock mode and operate at high speeds. It is important to ensure that there are no hidden wiring or fittings in the wall or ceiling.

When drilling such surfaces, a lot of dust and debris gets onto the drill; it needs to be cleaned in a timely manner.

At the end of the work, the cartridge is blown out with a stream of compressed air.

Drills marked “for concrete” with a carbide cutting part will quickly drill through walls or ceilings. It is optimal if they have a hex shank. The maximum drilling diameter in concrete is 16 mm. If the holes are up to 8 mm, it is easy to work with diamond drills.

Video: hole in a concrete wall under the baseboard

To drill a large diameter hole (for an electrical outlet), use a ring bit.

When drilling brick, choose carbide drills with pobedit tip. Drill at high speeds in impact mode. It is important that no electrical wiring runs inside the masonry. The drilling site is marked with a center punch, and the tip of the drill is placed in the hole. Drill perpendicularly so as not to break the drill. The process requires gentle pressure on the drill and regular cooling of the drill in cold water.

When using a drill in impact mode, safety glasses are required. They will protect your eyes from dust, pieces of concrete and brick.

How to drill metals

The maximum permissible drill diameter when working with steel is 13 mm.

For steel, choose drills marked “for metal”. If the part is small, secure it in a vice. Use a center punch to determine the drilling location and lightly hit it. A small depression is formed, and the end of the drill is placed into it at a right angle. Drill metal with constant pressure. If the metal is hard, drilling is slow. Soft metal is processed at medium speeds.

The drill is removed from the drilled metal without turning off the drill. It is turned off when it completely comes out of the hole.

When working with metal, wear safety glasses and tight-fitting clothing with long sleeves to avoid harm from sparks and prickly metal shavings.

For stainless steel, use drills marked “for stainless steel”. A simple drill immediately overheats during operation, and the viscous metal melts. For cooling, special compounds based on sulfur and machine oil are used. The drill is set to minimum speed (100–600). If there is no smooth adjustment, drill gradually: start the tool for 1-2 seconds and immediately turn it off.

Video: how to drill metal correctly

After prolonged operation at low speed, the drill is switched to maximum speed. Let it idle for 2-3 minutes to cool down.

For cast iron, use drills “for cast iron” with special sharpening. But they are difficult to find, so they choose carbide drills for metal. Cast iron is a hard material, but if handled carelessly, it splits easily. The selected place is cleared. Drilling begins with a small diameter at low speed, constantly cooling the drill with kerosene or water-based solution. Haste and increased pressure will only do harm.

Excessive pressure damages the instrument. It is better to start drilling with small drill diameters or with less pressure on the drill.

For the channel, you need metal drills from 3.5 mm to the required one in increments of 2–3 mm. The holes for the drill are filled with a center punch. Drill with light pressure, starting with a smaller diameter, gradually drilling out the hole. Drills are constantly lubricated with machine oil. Diamond drill bits are easier to use.

How to make a groove in wood

The workpiece is securely secured in a vice or clamp to avoid twisting and prevent accidents. It is strictly forbidden to hold it in your hands.

You can make a clean, smooth, even groove only with a milling cutter. In the absence of a milling machine, craftsmen attach a cutter from a router with a shank with a diameter of 8 mm into a drill. The spindle speed of the drill is not enough for serious machining. This option is only suitable for rough work.

For small rough grooves, a special drill bit with longitudinal cutting edges and transverse cuts is used.

Video: drill bit in action

DIY method

They are used when there are no cutters or such a drill.

Markings are made on the workpiece and a furrow is simply drilled, controlling the depth. If the drill is electronically controlled, start at low speeds. When this function is not available, special wood drills are used. They are spiral, made of high-strength steel and have a point for centering. The tip of the drill is fixed in the wood and the maximum speed is turned on.

Jumpers remain between the holes, which are then removed with a chisel and cleaned with sandpaper.

For holes with a diameter of 10–32 mm, ring drills are used.

How to drill tiles

Sometimes you need a hole in a tiled wall. Tiles, tiles and other materials that crack should not be drilled using impact mode. If the hole is small, use a drill for glass and tiles to drill into the ceramic tiles until it stops. Then insert a concrete drill and continue working in hammer drill mode. For a large hole, drill the tile with a diamond-coated core drill, then continue working on the concrete.

Why are sparks in a drill dangerous?

An electric drill, like any other power tool, requires systematic maintenance. Spare parts wear out during operation and the lubricant dries out.

Drill brushes require regular replacement. One of the manifestations of the problem is that at normal network voltage the electric motor does not work. A bright signal is the formation of a circular fire on the collector. The spectacle is beautiful, but dangerous. In order not to ruin the anchor of the drill, they are changed. It is advisable to buy original ones, not Chinese ones. With them the tool will last much longer.

Please note: brushes are not universal. If you don't know what size you need, take an old one with you as a sample.

Graphite brushes for drill

The design of the drill allows you to replace the brushes yourself. There are models in which there are installation windows for brushes on the body. Replacement is simple:

The plugs are unscrewed from the installation windows.
Remove worn brushes.
New brushes are installed.
Screw in the plugs.

Other models require minimal disassembly of the drill:

Remove all screws on the housing. Remove the cover. It is more convenient to leave the screws in their “native” places.
Take out the brush holders and remove the worn brushes from them.
Insert new brushes, pushing the spring firmly into place.
Insert the brush holders into place, tighten the electrical contact of the supply wire well.
Close the housing cover and tighten the screws.

Video: how to replace brushes

Nozzles: saving effort and money

To operate, the shank of the attachment is clamped in the drill chuck, like a simple drill, and the drilling mode is set.

Sanding and polishing

For grinding, use an attachment for wheels with Velcro, where abrasive wheels of different grain sizes are attached. Metal and wood are polished with cups or discs. In hard-to-reach places, use a fan nozzle.

The drill becomes an electric sharpener with special attachments. The sharpening angle is adjustable, you can sharpen anything: drills, chisels, disc blades.

Properly sharpened drills provide quality drilling, are less likely to jam, and preserve the tool.

Polishing attachments: soft felt, special for cars, polishing leather ends and others. To work with rotation in any direction, select a speed of 1000 revolutions.

Scissor attachment for drill “Cricket”

Video: Cricket attachment in action

Attachments that make it easier

Corner. Works in hard-to-reach places as a drill and a screwdriver.

Drywall cutters. Used when installing sockets and distribution boxes.

Flexible shaft. One side is attached to the drill chuck, and the drill chuck is on the other end. Drills where a drill cannot cope without such an attachment.

How else to use a drill

Like a drill press

A well-equipped home workshop must include a stand for an electric drill. Only using this guide attachment can complex work be done. For example, a hole is drilled with extreme precision, down to tenths of a millimeter. A drill stand with a drill attached turns into a drilling machine.

Necessary when working with hard materials that are difficult to process. Without a strict direction, the drill does not plunge into depth, but only scratches such a surface.

A stand with a 900 or 3600 rotation of the working head or clamping device is preferred.

The drill is clamped into the stand - a compact home drilling machine with a smooth feed is ready for work. Manufacturers allow the use of only tools marked “professional”.

Video: homemade stand for electric drill

If you attach a milling machine with an overhead spindle to a stand, you will get a home milling machine.

Like a screwdriver

A drill easily replaces a screwdriver. To work with screws, screws, or remove jammed attachments, turn on the reverse stroke. Screws and bolts are tightened at low speed.

Be careful, the drill may slip when tightening long screws.

The directions of rotation are switched using the reverse lever after stopping the drill.

Drill as a mixer

It is better to use special drill mixers. Their design has additional handles. The intended purpose is precisely mixing mixtures. It comes with attachments and works for a long time without overheating. Like a drill, it only supports drilling mode. The price of such units is much higher.

The drill mixer has additional handles

Drill: Unexpected Use

An electric drill is bought for drilling. Then they discover new wonderful application ideas.

Cut steel cable, copper and aluminum cable with a sector nozzle.
Remove dust by connecting the dust extraction attachment to the vacuum cleaner.
Cut threads in blind holes without fear of breaking the tap, using minimal torque.
Calibrate PP-R pipes using a calibrator attachment.
Pump and pump out liquids using a pump attachment.
Pluck the bird. The soft striking fingers of the attachment do not damage the skin.
Cream the honey using a stainless steel attachment similar to a mixer.

Video: interesting homemade products for electric drills

Proper handling prolongs life

In order for a home electric station wagon to help for many years, a number of rules must be followed.

Do not allow mechanical damage (impacts, falls).
Constant overload mode is dangerous. When the light is on, the power tool is operating at its maximum capacity.
Avoid prolonged continuous work. A non-professional instrument needs frequent rest. The temperature of the body is periodically checked: if you cannot hold your palm on it, the drill is turned off. They recommend 15 minutes of work, then a break until the temperature of the drill matches the ambient temperature. The total operating time per day is 4 - 5 hours, the turn-on and rest intervals are approximately the same.
Do not use in rain or snow, or in very dusty areas.
Rooms with an aggressive or explosive environment can have a dangerous effect on drill parts. The power tool generates sparks and may ignite dust or fumes.
Work with caution in the area of electrical wiring.
The drill is turned on and off at idle speed.
The drill is not released from your hands until the rotation of the chuck has completely stopped, so as not to lose control over it.
After work, clean the dirt and dust in the ventilation holes on the motor housing.
During long breaks in operation, the chuck and spindle are covered with a layer of preservative lubricant (technical petroleum jelly).

How do drills usually differ from each other? Power, modes, speed and a set of additional functions. They are different: miniature and large, battery-powered and powered, made of cheap plastic and with fancy anti-slip inserts. But each of them is a queen in the kingdom of home power tools.

Drilling a hole with a feather drill

At first glance, when the question arises about how to drill a hole in wood, most people have no doubt: just think, wood is not metal and can be drilled easily. Yes, this is partly true if you want to make not a hole in the wood, but a banal hole. And in order to drill a hole in wood correctly and efficiently, you need to listen to the advice of processing experts wooden structures, who are also called wood modelers.

Rules for drilling holes in wood

The rules are definitely simple, but following them will help you save your time, nerves and Consumables in the form of wooden blanks and ready-made parts. So, what you need to pay attention to:

Before drilling, you need to accurately mark the location for the hole.

Choose the right one cutting tool. This refers to drills for working with wood, countersinks, pen drills with a drilling depth limiter and annular cutters of the required diameter.

When drilling, the tool (mostly a drill) must be held strictly vertically.

Use drills designed for specific materials only.

Wooden parts must be firmly secured in a vice.

The cutting tool should be pressed firmly, but with uniform force.

Techniques for drilling holes in wood

Countersink hole for screw head

Let's start drilling simple holes for a screw or. Usually these holes are small in diameter and drilling them is not difficult. The only thing you need to do is to countersink the hole before drilling, that is, turn the surface of the wood under the screw head. To do this, firmly fix the wood and use a countersink to make a recess in it slightly larger than the height of the head of the screw or self-tapping screw. After this, firmly pressing a drill of the required diameter to the surface, drill the hole you need.

There are situations when you need to drill a “blind” hole for a tenon joint. To do this you need to use feather drill with a limiter that fits onto the drill according to the size of the drilling depth

It is more difficult to make holes in large diameter wood, since the use of conventional cylindrical drills chips the surface of the material, damaging it appearance. To successfully cope with this task, feather drills and annular cutters are used.

Drilling with feather drills

Feather drill

For successful work When drilling with feather drills, secure the wood firmly in a vice and press the tip of the drill to the surface of the material. Then drill (at low speed) the hole until the tip of the drill appears at the bottom of the wood. Stop drilling and remove the feather bit from the hole, then turn the wood over, clamp it in a vice and drill the hole on the other side. This will prevent the block from splitting when drilling.

Drilling with an annular cutter

Wood annular cutter

An annular cutter is used to drill holes in wood with a diameter greater than 38 mm. Drilling begins with a small-diameter guide drill, structurally connected to the cutter in one piece. This guide serves as a guide for the annular cutter.

Here are some tips from professionals that will surely help you when drilling holes in wood:

a) for vertical drilling, you can install a square parallel to the drill;
b) if you often have to do carpentry work, purchase a special stand for a drill, which allows you to hold the tool strictly vertically and controls the depth of the holes;
c) be sure to use a vice when drilling to avoid splitting the wood;
d) so that the outlet hole does not have chips, place it under wooden part unnecessary block and drill them together. This is especially applicable when making holes in a thin board;
e) if you do not have a drilling depth limiter, wrap the drill in the area of limitation with bright electrical tape or masking tape.