Most of us school days have a clear vision of a perfectly designed page. An even scattering of letters, slender lines of words, a strict rectangle of text framed by even margins - this is exactly the picture we see when leafing through any printed publication. There is a great temptation to depict something similar on a web page, especially since a well-known means is proposed for this - text alignment in width. However, what is good for a typographer is a mortal sin for a web designer. And all because, when applied to site markup, this function is overgrown with so many shortcomings that its only advantage in the form of a smooth right edge simply fades before our eyes. Here are just a few reasons why you should ditch justification in favor of left alignment.
Visible clutter inside a text block
Yes, yes, the smoother the edges of the text block, the more obvious the mess inside it. In typography, a whole arsenal of tools can achieve consistency in text: hyphenation, adjusting the spacing between words and the distances between letters, and even slightly wider or slightly wider narrow options font. But the layout of an Internet page suggests, as a rule, only one way to “stretch” a line from edge to edge - an uncontrolled increase in the width of spaces. Not only does this lead to the appearance of unsightly gaps between words, but these gaps, as if by the law of meanness, often fall at approximately the same place in each line, forming so-called vertical “rivers”. All this gives the text a very untidy appearance.
Unreadability
But if aesthetics could still be sacrificed for the sake of neat edges, then the obvious problems with the visual perception of the text are still too high a price to pay for them. And justified text is objectively much less readable than left-aligned text. The main reason lies in the same increased intervals between words: the eye is constantly forced to look for the beginning of the next word, and due to the difference in spaces from line to line, it is also forced to adjust from one distance to another.
The need to work on line length, often to no avail
In fairness, it is worth noting that the identified disadvantages of justified text can be reduced by increasing the line length. However, this method will not always be effective. But it can reduce readability with a very high degree of probability: it is difficult for the eyes, having scanned one long line to the end, to accurately and quickly jump to the beginning of the next one.
Unsuitable for mobile devices
The narrower the column with text, the less it is subject to alignment. And here this format comes into direct conflict with the requirements of mobile devices, for which, on the contrary, the shorter the line, the better. Agree, it’s one thing to follow a long line on a full-screen monitor with your eyes, and quite another to scroll each line back and forth over and over again. A dubious pleasure, but the right way lose your mobile audience!
It would seem that if we could add a word wrap function to the page, all these problems that arise when aligning text to the width of the page would be solved. But the catch is that HTML markup does not provide such a function. So it turns out that today there is no other way to maintain acceptable spacing between words on a web page other than aligning text to the edge.
Thus, when creating an Internet page, it is important to remember the main thing: a website is not a book, and you need to approach its design from the positions dictated by technology and the psychology of perception, and not by someone’s aesthetic views, however, very, very conditional. Believe me, if your text is neatly placed and, first of all, readable easily and with pleasure, no one will pay attention to such a trifle as uneven margins!
By the way, when you read this article, did you notice that the text is not justified?
Laying the parquet so that it does not start to creak and “walk” in the first month after repair will only work on a flat floor. The same story with a bathtub on an inclined surface - an incorrect slope will prevent water from flowing by gravity into the flange drain. There are plenty of other reasons to correct the geometry of the room, hence the demand for screeds and other approaches to creating a flat floor plane. Let's consider in what cases it is especially important to spend money on major renovation floor.
Why do you need to level the floor?
It is necessary to level the floors so that the finishing coatings lie down neatly, so that there is no need to place bars and stones under furniture and equipment. felt scraps, and the plumbing coped with its functions. Leveling is not always a struggle with bumps and holes in a concrete floor slab, sometimes it’s perfect Smooth surface noticeably tilted, and this is much more dangerous.
Parquet, laminate and other floor coverings do not tolerate defects in the rough layer. In just six months, parquet without a screed will begin to loosen and creak, the locking joints will fall apart, the board will crack. The situation is similar with laminate, except that it will last much less than parquet, and on holes and bumps without a plywood backing, flaws will appear that are visible to the naked eye.
In the bathroom and toilet, a curved floor causes plumbing problems. Bathtubs and showers are initially made with the bowl tilted towards the drain. The water flows by gravity into the drain, and there are no puddles left. If the floor is inclined, gravity may not work due to the lack of the required angle in the direction of the drain.
In residential and non-residential premises, crooked floors cause problems with furniture and appliances. Simple task - install gas stove or a refrigerator - it turns into a problem and many hours of torment with placing pieces of plywood, linoleum, and felt under the legs.
Do I need to level the floor for tiles?
It is important to level floors with a tile screed for the reasons already mentioned above. In addition, when laying tiles on a lumpy surface, you will have to spend a huge amount of glue, otherwise it will not be possible to keep the plane flat. Screed, as a rule, is cheaper, and the thickness of the tile adhesive layer should not exceed 9 mm, otherwise the strength and tenacity of the composition is lost. It’s even worse if the floor is sloped - in this case, the tiles may “float”, which will distort the pattern, and cracks and voids will appear in the adhesive layer. If the tiles are laid in a damp room, for example, in a bathroom, fungi and mold will appear in the cracks - removing them from there will be very, very problematic.
About leveling the floor in a new building
Budget apartments from the developer in 99% of cases need serious improvement. The plane of the floor in adjacent rooms is often crooked, even visually, and when measuring the deviation it turns out that the slope is much greater than the norm of 1 mm per linear meter.
Are you going to install parquet or laminate? Get ready to make a screed. Self-leveling floors save the situation with differences of 1-2 cm, when a thin layer of coating is enough to smooth out flaws. In other cases, you will have to use a cement, semi-dry or dry screed.
Under linoleum or carpet, a screed is also required, otherwise roll materials will lie crookedly, distortions and folds will form. Prevent all these problems and not drag out repairs for months (and wet screed It takes at least three weeks to dry completely), a dry screed will help. Among the advantages of dry screed are ease and speed of installation, the ability to hide communications, no need to level the base, minimal load on the floors and 100% environmental friendliness. Solid base The Knauf prefabricated subfloor will hide unattractive pipes and wires, and for repairs or replacement it will be easy to reach communications.
The screed corrects surface defects, removes slope, and simplifies the laying of finishing floor coverings. You can do without it only if the floors are initially flat, without a slope, and there are no convex or concave areas, but such are found only in high-rise residential complexes or expensive country cottages.
Olga Emelyanova
Chief physician of the International Orthodontic Center Invisalign, Moscow.
If you've ever watched American teen comedies, then you probably associate staples with the image of a loser and a nerd, and getting rid of them is the first step towards turning an ugly duckling into a swan. Alas, the transformation occurs precisely while wearing braces, and this process is quite lengthy. However, technology does not stand still; dentistry today offers many options for straightening teeth.
Is teeth straightening really necessary?
The current trend towards accepting oneself and the imperfections of one's body is certainly very beneficial. Of course, you shouldn’t chase the ideal from the picture. But crooked teeth are both an aesthetic and functional problem.
Crooked teeth are fraught not only with an unattractive smile, but also with speech impediments (the notorious diction defects), microtraumas of the oral mucosa, and improper distribution of the load during chewing, which results in excessive abrasion of the enamel and the formation of microcracks on its surface. Also, crooked dentition can provoke migraines, jaw clicking, bruxism (uncontrolled teeth grinding), and problems with the temporomandibular joint due to excessive tension in the lower jaw. In case of serious curvatures, the quality of chewing food deteriorates, causing damage to the gastrointestinal tract.
Psychological problems are also likely: low self-esteem, stress due to peers, if we are talking about teenagers.
Does installing braces help in all cases?
If we are talking specifically about the curvature of the dentition (protruding forward or, conversely, recessed teeth; enlarged spaces between the front (diastema) and lateral (trema) teeth; deployed position of some teeth; crossbite), then any of the alignment methods, be it vestibular, lingual braces or aligners, with a competent approach and the patient following all the doctor’s recommendations will definitely help.
If problems at the dentition level are combined with malocclusion at the jaw level, a competent and experienced specialist at the first appointment will prescribe additional studies (most often x-ray) and determine which orthodontic system will best cope with your problem. Additional intraoral traction may be required.
In particular severe cases combined with malocclusion may require surgical intervention.
Alas, with all the possibilities of modern orthodontics, there are still similar cases when the bite cannot be corrected without maxillofacial surgery. That is why it is so important to contact a trusted specialist who will not waste your money and time (treatment with braces usually takes from six months to two years) and will refer you to another doctor if necessary. However, fortunately, most problems with bite, not to mention curvature at the level of the dentition, are now successfully solved by installing braces or wearing aligners.
Which orthodontic systems are more effective?
From a functional point of view, all orthodontic systems are equally effective and reliable. The difference between them lies largely in comfort. How more modern system, the more aesthetically pleasing and convenient it is. It is not difficult to guess that comfort and aesthetics are proportional to the cost.
The choice of a specific orthodontic design should be based on the following factors:
- How important is it to you? appearance? (Here you need to remember that even metal braces today are not a death sentence; they are much more aesthetically pleasing than their predecessors twenty years ago.)
- How long are you willing to wear the design?
- What are your financial opportunities?
When is it too early to put on braces, and when is it too late?
We have to admit that the situation in Russia and the world is very deplorable. According to various statistics, up to 80% of the world's population have bite problems of varying severity. If you meet a person today with absolutely straight teeth, most likely he has undergone orthodontic treatment.
The formation of malocclusion and crooked dentition is influenced by many factors, from ecology to heredity, but the most serious problems occur due to improper bottle feeding and bad habits in infancy, such as thumb sucking.
Therefore, you should have your first appointment with an orthodontist before the age of 5.
Braces are not yet worn at this age, but a competent doctor will already be able to determine whether the child will have bite problems in the future. If serious violations are already observed, removable structures will help: plates or trainers. The doctor will determine what kind of exposure is necessary.
As for treatment with fixed structures (braces) and aligners, it can begin as soon as the bite is fully formed and the baby teeth are replaced by permanent teeth. There is no need to wait for the eruption of eights, the so-called wisdom teeth.
But there is no upper limit. Even for older people, teeth straightening is not contraindicated, and successful treatment significantly improves the quality of life.
Do I need to remove teeth, such as figure eights, to install braces?
Only an orthodontist can answer this question after examination and x-ray examination. However, tooth extraction, be it wisdom teeth or fangs, is not always necessary for the purpose of installing an orthodontic structure. If there is severe crowding, then you may have to get rid of the eights, but most likely they will not interfere with treatment.
What is the difference between braces and when is each of them preferable?
As mentioned above, the difference lies in the level of aesthetics and comfort. The simplest (and most affordable) braces systems are metal. Not very conscientious doctors continue to call them the most reliable, but this is not so: in terms of reliability, the same sapphire braces are in no way inferior to metal ones. But first things first.
Metal braces
Metal braces are more noticeable than others. But if you are not embarrassed by the fact that others will be aware of your treatment, today there are many ways to decorate braces: rhinestones, multi-colored rubber ligatures and much more.
Metal braces are most often recommended for teenagers, as they are not diligent in daily hygiene. As for comfort, you will have to get used to metal braces; they can injure the inner surface of the lips (in this case, the doctor will prescribe special remedy). You will need special V-shaped, as well as single-tuft brushes or brushes to clean the braces themselves.
During the treatment period, some foods will have to be excluded from the diet, and hard fruits and vegetables cannot be bitten off; they will need to be cut into slices.
Ceramic braces
Ceramic braces are more expensive and much more aesthetically pleasing than metal braces. They are less noticeable on your teeth because they are made to match the color of your enamel, and their arch can be painted.
At first you will also experience some discomfort, but when the period of adaptation passes, the only inconvenience you will experience is the dietary restriction.
As for caring for teeth with ceramic braces, you must remember that the plaque around them will be much more noticeable than when wearing metal structure, so you will need more careful daily hygiene and more frequent visits to professional cleaning sessions.
A special type of ceramic braces is sapphire. They are completely transparent and many people like them better, however fundamental differences from ceramic ones no.
It should be remembered that, no matter what type of braces you and your doctor choose, you will have to come in for “lifts” at certain intervals - adjustments to the pressure that moves the teeth in the desired direction.
And one more life hack... Teeth after orthodontic treatment will never return to their previous position in only one case: if, after removing braces, a retainer is installed on the back surface - a thin, invisible wire that prevents the teeth from moving to their previous position.
Doctors are still arguing about the retainer: is it necessary to wear it for the rest of your life, or is it enough for a period twice as long as the period of wearing braces? In any case, without a retainer, newly moved teeth can, by inertia, return to their usual position, and all treatment will come to naught. By the way, you can’t feel the retainer on your teeth at all.
But lingual braces - orthodontic structures installed on the back surface of the teeth - you will feel for the first time. Lingual systems are completely invisible on the teeth and are just as effective as vestibular systems (attached to the front surface of the teeth), but getting used to them may take a little longer, and diction will especially suffer.
Is there an alternative to braces?
An alternative to braces exists, and these are aligners - the most modern and comfortable way to straighten teeth. The main difference between aligners and braces is that they can be removed if necessary.
Aligners are completely transparent, completely invisible trays on the teeth that you remove while eating. Therefore, no dietary restrictions are necessary. If necessary, you can remove them before any important event, however, this is an unnecessary precaution: only an orthodontist working with this system will be able to see the aligners in your mouth, and only if he specifically looks into your mouth.
Also, transparent mouth guards do not require any additional hygienic devices. You simply remove them, clean them with a regular brush and paste, and rinse the aligners under running water and, if necessary, clean them with the same brush.
In terms of effectiveness, aligners are not inferior to conventional braces, but only if two conditions are met:
- The mouthguards should be on the teeth for at least 20–22 hours a day.
- Sets must be changed promptly. At each visit, your doctor will give you several pairs of mouth guards and tell you when to change them.
Another advantage of aligners is the predictable result. Even at the stage of planning treatment with the help of a special computer program you will be able to see how your teeth will move. Naturally, treatment with aligners is the most expensive way to straighten teeth, but this investment is justified by comfort, aesthetic appearance and predictable results.
Whatever your financial capabilities and aesthetic requirements, only an orthodontist can choose the right orthodontic design for you, determine the exact timing of treatment, and find out whether additional surgical interventions are required. It must be remembered that an experienced and competent doctor, even with the help of the most ordinary metal braces, can ultimately achieve an ideal result. This is why it is so important to find a good clinic and a conscientious doctor.
Leveling the floor is not a mandatory procedure before laying laminate flooring. But in most cases you can’t do without it. To check whether this needs to be done in a particular case, you should use a tape measure to measure the gap between the floor and the ruler over the entire area of the room.
If this indicator is more than 2 mm, it is necessary to level the floor. The choice of technique that will be used for this depends on which floor requires manipulation - wooden or concrete. It also matters what materials and tools the master has.
There are also taboo materials that are undesirable to use. These include chipboard sheets. Under influence external factors they emit harmful formaldehyde.
It is also important to determine the strength of the floor so that it can withstand the entire structure.
Do I need to level the floor for laminate flooring?
If you still have doubts about whether you need to spend effort and money on leveling the floor, you should take into account several features of this coating:
- Laminate flooring can easily bend under the weight of a person. If there are voids underneath due to an uneven floor, it may crack over time.
- The locks between the panels may come apart if the floor is uneven. As a result, moisture will get under the laminate and it will deteriorate from the inside.
- Large differences in the surface threaten swelling and cracks.
- Panels may creak.
- A person will feel the instability of the laminate.
As a result, the laminate will not last long and will soon have to be replaced.
To be sure that the surface leveling procedure is necessary, you should first perform several manipulations:
- analyze the floor for chips, potholes, and obvious unevenness;
- identify concrete “waves”;
- determine whether there are relief differences in the floor.
If one of the listed signs has been identified, then it is necessary to level the surface.
You need to carefully and slowly inspect the floor. If the wrong decision is made, the floor will either begin to “walk” underfoot over time, or money will be wasted on purchasing materials and time to level the coating.
Necessary materials and tools for leveling the floor
The main materials that will allow you to properly level the floor are cement and sand. But modern market building materials offers craftsmen to purchase ready-made mixtures. They have a number of significant advantages:
- have soundproofing properties;
- keep warm;
- have strong bonding properties.
There are dry mixtures separately for concrete and wooden floors. There are also these types:
- Primers - designed to prepare the surface for leveling.
- Repair - to eliminate serious defects and flaws.
- Sealing - for sealing cracks.
The master will also need the following tools:
- construction beacons (they need to be placed for screeding);
- building level;
- mixer for mixing the solution;
- kneading container.
In addition to tools and materials, it is advisable to enlist support. Otherwise, the task may turn out to be overwhelming. This is especially true for the period when the screed will be poured.
It is important not to skimp on materials. Then it will be much easier to achieve results.
How to level a concrete floor under laminate
Often the concrete floor seems perfect coverage for installation of laminate. But even that can be uneven. To level it, you first need to remove the old coating, clean the surface of debris, dust and concrete chips.
There are three ways to level a concrete floor:
- By using concrete screed.
- Thanks to the self-leveling mixture.
- Using plywood and chipboard.
Leveling with concrete screed
This method can be called ideal if the floor has serious unevenness and flaws. To level the floor using this method, you need to install special “beacons”. It is also better to do the work with an assistant, because one person cannot cope with pouring a concrete screed.
The algorithm for leveling a concrete floor using a screed is as follows:
- Use a level to identify the highest point of the floor. Mark a line along the perimeter to which the screed will reach.
- The cord should be pulled tight to mark this line.
- Install beacons. They need to be strengthened with slides of concrete mortar. During their installation, you need to constantly monitor their horizontal level. If inaccuracies are identified, they must be corrected promptly.
- Mix the solution. To do this, you need to mix 1 part cement, 3 parts sand (necessarily sifted) and water. You need to get a homogeneous mass. To get this, it’s best to take a drill with a special attachment and mix the ingredients thoroughly.
- Focusing on the “beacons”, fill the screed to the level that was noted earlier.
- Align the screed. This point is very important; it determines whether the procedure will be carried out efficiently.
- Use a needle roller to remove bubbles from the concrete. They need to treat the entire concrete surface.
- Now you need to let the floor dry. In the meantime, you need to lubricate it with water for two days. You need to moisten it moderately.
- After two days, remove the “beacons”.
- Places where there were “beacons” should be filled with fresh concrete mortar and rub down to the same level as the floor.
- Cover the floor with polyethylene and do not open it for two weeks.
When this time is up, check whether the screed is completely dry. After a positive result, you can begin laying the laminate.
Using a self-leveling mixture
This option is optimal if the floor does not have serious unevenness. There may be minor defects or differences within 5 mm. The advantage of this method is that you do not need to waste time and effort on installing “beacons”. This is one of the most modern and effective ways level the floor.
In this case, completing the task step by step means:
- Install the most high point floor using building level.
- Mark the line up to which the mixture will be poured.
- Prime the surface with a special mixture.
- 4. Waterproof the floor.
- Prepare a self-leveling mixture using the information from the instructions.
- Pour the resulting mixture to the level that was marked.
- 7. Level the surface with a spatula.
- Knead a portion of the mixture again, pour it in and level it out. Doing the work in parts occurs due to the fact that the mixture quickly becomes unusable. If you do not fill it immediately, then after 15 minutes you cannot use it.
- Leave the surface to dry. This will take approximately 3 days. At this time there should be people in the room comfortable conditions: there were no drafts and it was warm.
When the floor is completely dry, you can think about laying laminate. If the floor humidity is low (less than 5%), then installation can be done immediately. If this indicator is higher, then you should first use waterproofing and a cork backing so that it absorbs moisture.
This method of leveling the floor is also suitable for a single master. All stages of the process are clear, they are not difficult to perform if you refer to the specified algorithm.
Leveling with plywood or chipboard
This method is suitable for rooms with high ceiling. The essence of the process is that a dry screed is used. The plywood is not laid on the floor, but on the joists, which must first be installed. As a result, the height of the room decreases by 10 cm.
A positive result in this case is possible only when the logs are located according to the horizontal level. If there are depressions, then wedges need to be placed, and excess bulges should be trimmed off.
To level the floor using these methods, you need to follow these steps:
- Using a building level, mark to what level the floor will reach.
- Execute preparatory work: lay out waterproofing, sound insulation and shock absorption.
- Install logs. They can be purchased at finished form and do it yourself using beams.
- It is imperative to control the distances: there should be 3 cm from the walls, and 40 - 50 cm between the logs.
- Secure the joists with dowels.
- Lay out sheets of plywood or chipboard. You should leave a gap between them of 0.2 - 0.4 mm.
- Secure the sheets with self-tapping screws. You should adhere to a step of 50 - 70 cm.
The big advantage of this method is that the laminate can be laid immediately. This is a significant time saving, which is what attracts craftsmen.
There is also another “dry” way to level the floor - using dry mixtures.
The algorithm of actions will be as follows:
- Cover the floor with polyethylene to create waterproofing.
- Close the corners edge tape. It will absorb sound.
- A dry screed is made and leveled.
- Plasterboard and plywood are laid on top in two layers.
- Secure the sheets with self-tapping screws. If drywall is used, then optimal step- 50 mm. If other materials are chosen, then the screws can be mounted further away from each other.
The dry method was also liked by craftsmen due to the fact that there is no need to waste time preparing the solution. As a result, the floor is leveled, the room is isolated from extraneous sounds, and additional waterproofing will prevent the materials from losing their appearance and properties prematurely.
How to level a wooden floor
Leveling a wooden floor can sometimes be very difficult. If the boards are severely damaged or rotten, then they must be replaced. After this, level the surface. You also need to do the same with lags.
If at first glance the structure seems strong, you still need to tear off the board and check the joists for strength.
If all the elements are in order, then it is enough to use one of the options for leveling a wooden floor:
- scraping;
- using plywood or chipboard;
- puttying.
Sanding is a surefire way to make a wooden floor even.
If we are talking about leveling a wooden floor, then a proven way to do this is scraping. To do this, they use a special machine that will make the wood smooth and even. The procedure can be carried out without equipment, manually. But this is hard and long work that will take more than one day.
Before treating the surface with a machine, you need to check all the screws and nails that are driven into the wood. Any bulges of this nature must be eliminated: hammered in with a hammer and rubbed. Otherwise the machine may break.
The point of scraping is that the machine removes upper layer wood, making the surface perfectly smooth. The manipulation must be carried out carefully, without missing part of the surface.
The next stage is cleaning the floor from dirt and dust. After this, you can lay the laminate. Cycling allows you to quickly level the floor and get excellent results. But there is also a minus - the cost of the machine. Not everyone will be able to purchase it, given that it will not be useful often.
In this case, you should think about renting it.
Using plywood or chipboard
This option is implemented in the same way as when leveling a concrete floor. The main difference is that the logs are laid on wood and secured with self-tapping screws.
Between the joists a layer of waterproofing, insulation and sound-absorbing material should be laid. This way the floor will not only be smooth, but also warm. Neighbors will also appreciate such enterprise, because there will be less noise.
Puttying
This procedure must be carried out using sawdust and PVA glue. This option is considered the most budget-friendly, but it can only be used if the floor does not have serious unevenness.
Craftsmen are also attracted by the fact that puttying does not raise the floor too much, thereby not “eating up” the space in the room.
Puttying with sawdust and glue should be carried out in stages:
- Install the “beacons” and secure them with nails. This device will allow you to monitor the level. If there are no deformed boards or other flaws, then the “beacons” can be abandoned.
- Mix sawdust and PVA glue so that the mass resembles thick sour cream.
- Pour the mixture into the space.
- The mass settles quickly, so you need to fill it at least 2-3 times.
- Wait for the surface to dry.
- Lay thin plywood (5 mm thick) on top of the dried layer and secure it with self-tapping screws.
It is useful for a novice master to know the specifics of the procedure for leveling a wooden floor. Such recommendations include:
- The floor must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust. Therefore, it is best to use a vacuum cleaner, brush and other cleaning devices.
- Many important communications are located under the floor. To avoid harm, they should be secured and, if necessary, insulated.
- Laminate flooring will last for many years, so it makes sense to do everything to make it comfortable to walk on. To do this, you need to insulate the floor.
- All nails must be combed - this is the main point of the preparatory stage.
- It is important not to skip the puttying and sanding stage. Then the surface will become even smoother and more even.
- There should be no voids between the floorboards. Otherwise, moist air will flow through them under the floor. As a result, the wood will quickly begin to deteriorate and will have to be replaced. flooring fully. You can close the voids with wooden strips, which must first be lubricated with glue.
- If scraping is chosen for the procedure, the master must be prepared: have special glasses, a respirator, and earplugs. It is important to close the windows tightly, and it is best to seal them with electrical tape.
- Looping involves starting work from a corner. You need to move diagonally. After this, go perpendicular to the previous path.
- To rub out unevenness you need to use sandpaper. It is better to opt for fine-grained.
If the wooden floor is completely rotten, then it needs to be torn down entirely and leveled concrete base. After this, lay the laminate according to the already known scheme.
Leveling the floor is not an easy task. The choice of technique depends on many factors: the height of the ceilings in the room, the surface topography, its problematic nature and dilapidation.
You also need to pay attention to the training of the master and the presence of assistants nearby. If we talk about durability, then laying laminate flooring on a concrete floor is considered more reliable. Even after many years have passed, this design will hold up. But it’s better to work with this surface with an assistant to do everything perfectly.
Wood is easier to process, but there is no complete certainty that moisture will not get into the middle and ruin the base over time.
Leveling the floor will require additional expenditure of time and money on purchasing materials, but you can be sure that the laminate will fit perfectly and will last much longer.
By leveling the floor we usually mean creating horizontal plane floor. But everything is not as obvious as it seems. The plane of the floor may not be strictly horizontal - one corner may be a centimeter or two higher than the other, but the plane will be flat (although not strictly horizontal).
If the floor has no plane at all, then it is simply crooked and even uncomfortable to walk on. It’s clear here that we need to level it out. But if the floor plane is flat, but it is not completely horizontal, is it necessary to level it? Here you need to look at specific situation. They are leveled strictly horizontally due to the fact that if the floor is “littered”, this can be noticeable from the furniture (for example, it will be visible from the wardrobe, but kitchen furniture The legs are adjustable, it's not scary there). But if the floor plane is flat, although not strictly horizontal, and long cabinets are not planned there, you can leave it as is.
However, if you still have to level the floor throughout the entire apartment, it is better to level it strictly “to the level” so that later a curvature does not appear somewhere. If you need to level only part of the apartment, and in another part of it this is not required, then everything is a little more complicated. Let’s say you need to level the floor in the hallway and kitchen to match the tiles; and there will be laminate in the rooms - there is no need to level them. If you try to level it, the old floor is probably a little littered, and there will be a three-centimeter layer on the doors to the rooms. Here it will no longer be possible not to level it under the laminate, otherwise there will be a step on the threshold. In such a situation, it is better to level not by level, but to try to make the layer on the thresholds smaller, so that you do not have to raise the floor in the rooms later.
Cases when the floor needs to be leveled
- On the floor concrete plates, and between the plates there are differences of several centimeters.
- Removed old parquet or hardboard on bitumen mastic, large influxes of mastic remained.
- The old wooden floor creaks and wobbles.
- There is an old screed, but it is completely crooked.
- There will be tiles on the floor.
- You want to make a warm floor. The classic heated floor is covered with screed. Nowadays, warm floors made from film have appeared - they are simply laid under the laminate, but the prices there are steep.
Other reasons, for example, if you need to hide electric wires in the screed cannot be considered a sufficient reason to get involved with leveling the floors. The same wires, for example, can be hidden in a groove, or in extreme cases - in a box.
Another common situation is when there are concrete slabs on the floor. The slabs themselves seem to be even, but they lie unevenly: there are differences between the slabs. IN standard houses Usually the joints of the slabs lie on the walls. As a result, differences are visible only at the door thresholds, the rest is hidden by the walls. Because of this, leveling the floors throughout the apartment is expensive and unnecessary. It is enough to level out the differences in the thresholds to zero.
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