Do-it-yourself ventilation in a bathhouse: an algorithm for creating an effective system without extra costs. Ventilation in a bathhouse: how to do it For ventilation from wood in a bathhouse


Since ancient times, people have believed that the bathhouse can heal the body. It is not for nothing that the people have a saying: “The bathhouse soars, the bathhouse rules, the bathhouse will fix everything.” To really get a boost of vivacity and health, it is necessary to create the most favorable microclimate for this with sufficient oxygen content. This is what ventilation in the steam room serves, where the air must be renewed at least 2 times every hour. When we talk about a bathhouse, we also mean a steam room.

The quality of bath procedures and our well-being directly depend on whether the ventilation scheme in the steam room is correctly implemented. Before we look at how to make ventilation in a steam room, let's look at its functions.

Functions of natural ventilation of a steam room

The bathhouse needs ventilation, because... it performs 3 main functions:

  1. Saturation of the steam room with oxygen.
  2. Creation of optimal bath processes for managing steam and air exchange.
  3. Drying the bath after washing to prevent the formation of mold and fungi that destroy wooden structures.

In order for steamers to breathe easily, a constant supply of fresh air is required. Many argue that steam room ventilation is not necessary, because... After washing, ventilate the bathhouse through the door and window.

In the human body, at the moment of soaring, the process of oxygen exchange in the blood increases several times. During one visit to the steam room (up to 2 hours or more), an adult secretes 0.5-1.5 liters of sweat, which is a concentrated toxin. Without an influx of fresh air, we are poisoned by the products of our own vital activity. An air mixture low in oxygen and high in carbon dioxide can cause headaches, nausea, dizziness and lethargy. People perceive this as intolerance to the bath, and do not realize that they themselves have created such conditions. The reason is that there is no ventilation in the steam room.

How are steam regimes created? In order for the air flow to quickly heat up, it is introduced at the bottom of the furnace, from which it heats up and, mixing with steam, rises to the ceiling and to the soaring zone.

A layer of steam is created there, which, when cooled, begins to settle in the form of condensate. On the wall, opposite the stove, opposite side Below, under the bathhouse shelf, a hole is made to allow exhaust air to escape. Due to internal circulation, fresh air is actively mixed in and unnecessary air is removed. Valves are installed on the channels to adjust the air exchange in the steam room. This is how the steam is controlled, and bathing procedures take place in more comfortable conditions.

On the wall opposite the inlet in the upper part, another exhaust hole is made, which is closed for the period of heating and washing. The upper hood is not for steam modes. It is only needed to dry the bath after washing. After taking bath procedures, you need to open and top hole and the bottom to thoroughly dry the room.

Many people are mistaken, claiming that you can dry a bathhouse with a stove with the doors and windows closed. It's an illusion. If there is no air exchange, it will not be possible to dry the bath well. When heated, air can hold a lot of water (steam). When it cools, the opposite happens: the air cannot hold much moisture and begins to release it in the form of dew. As a result, a lot of dampness will remain in the bathhouse. With organized ventilation, with each new flow it is carried out into the street and excess moisture. Any steel oven can handle this, because the cooling process takes up to 3 hours.

Steam room ventilation through the foundation

The design of the building influences the choice of the type of ventilation system.

An example of steam room ventilation through the foundation

Previously in chopped baths there was no ventilation, or it was used in its simplest form. The air from the steam room exited through the vent of the furnace, which was installed here. Fresh air was supplied through a door slightly open by 5 mm. The design of the bathhouse was as follows: a steam room, a washing room and a stove in one room.

In order for the stove to work as a hood, it must be installed so that the vent is below the floorboards. It should be taken into account that ventilation through the stove ashboard occurs only while the fire is burning in the stove. If ovens are used for short periods of time, an improved ventilation system is indispensable.

Here is another diagram that will help those who have a metal stove. The basis for steam room ventilation is the burning stove itself. It should ventilate not only the bathhouse, but also the entire foundation. Bad air with an unpleasant odor usually accumulates under the bathhouse if everything is not arranged correctly. A vent placed in the foundation facilitates the flow of air under the floor.

With underground ventilation

In the heating (furnace) mode of the bath, air circulates between the washing room, steam room and the space under the common floor. To do this, a window with a latch is made in the partition between the steam room and the sink to regulate the ventilation mode.

From the stove chimney there is a draft to the surface. For her, air comes from all possible cracks.

By metal pipe with a diameter of 115 mm, 5-10 l/sec of flue gas passes through, which is equivalent to the suction air of the furnace - 300-600 l/min, and this is 2-3 barrels of air per minute, the furnace pumps out into the chimney.

Therefore, if your stove vigorously smokes through a chimney, it means that it absorbs the same amount of air through the ash pan from the bathhouse, while giving off a colossal amount of heat.

If your stove takes air with its blower from your steam room, it first of all ventilates your steam room, then the underground and through it the air flows back, because has a total volume. There must be a common underground space under all sections of the bathhouse. If the floors are made independent of each other, then there will be no ventilation. Floor boards should not be laid tightly, 5-10 mm apart from each other.

Within 15 minutes, all the air in the bathhouse changes completely; 100% air exchange occurs through the chimney. For additional thermoregulation, you can also open the door of the main room to the dressing room so that the air goes out there and then outside.

Optimal layout for a steam room

There are many schemes with different advantages. Here is one common scheme according to which ventilation in a steam room can be arranged with your own hands. It also allows you to adjust the air flow to maintain one or another mode.

Let's take a closer look. Stove and door on one side. Air flow behind the stove and through the bottom slot of the door. Opposite, two exhaust ducts are mounted (one under the ceiling, the other above the shelf), connected to each other by a pipe or duct.

  1. During the heating period of the steam room, both exhaust openings are closed, and the supply openings remain open.
  2. During the soaring period, the upper exhaust valve is closed and the lower one is opened. The circulation of air masses begins: from the stove it rushes to the ceiling, resting against the wall and descends. It is partially pulled outward by the lower flap, and the remaining part continues to move lower to the floor and back up.
  3. After steaming, to dry the bath, open both exhaust valves.

Application of mechanical and combined ventilation

In paired rooms, ventilation can be arranged in several ways. In addition to natural ventilation, mechanical and combined ventilation is used in the steam room. This depends mainly on the layout, for example, if the bathhouse is attached to residential building. When only one wall borders the street and all the valves are installed on it, then ventilation in the bathhouse in the steam room cannot be done without mechanical stimulation.

In mechanical and combined ventilation systems, special devices are used to control air exchange.

The lower the ventilation holes are placed, the more heat will be retained in the steam room. In order to achieve good result it is necessary to additionally equip the ventilation system with mechanical devices. For this purpose, deflectors or simple fans are used in air ducts. Air exchange follows the same pattern, only the removal of unnecessary air from the room is carried out by a fan. This is a combined system. At mechanical type ventilation, a fan is installed in both the supply and exhaust ducts.
A different type of system is selected individually for each room.

What conditions must be met?

  • Must not be violated temperature regime in the steam room. Ventilation must properly distribute air flows without disturbing set temperature: hot air at the top and cooler air closer to the floor.
  • To change the speed of air movement, adjustable valves should be installed on the channels.
  • The entry of new air masses into the steam room should come directly from the street. Based on the features of the building, air ducts can be installed.
  • To avoid reverse draft, do not allow a difference in area between the exhaust and supply ducts.
  • To protect floors from fire, an inlet duct under the floor is installed near the metal sheet of the stove, blowing cold air over it.
  • At the end of the bath, thoroughly dry the floors and all rooms.
  • Cover ventilation openings on the outside with grilles to protect against rodents.

Microclimate measurements in the steam room

Each steamer has individual requirements for temperature and humidity conditions. They are based on personal feelings. You can achieve the creation of certain parameters using instruments.

Measure the temperature in the steam room with an alcohol thermometer. Cannot be used mercury thermometer. You can use an electric thermometer. The thermocouple is placed in the steam room, and the indicator is brought out into the dressing room or rest room.

Air humidity can be measured with a hygrometer. Based on the individual preferences of the steamer, you can use this device to set a certain mode.

What's the result?

Comfortable vaping conditions and ultimately satisfaction are determined by a balanced regime of humidity, heat and the presence of fresh air. To create such conditions, supply and exhaust ventilation are used. The main thing is to organize it correctly.

A suitable microclimate and the correct air ventilation scheme create conditions for better vaping.

Ventilation in a log bath: its arrangement should be approached very responsibly, so that later there will be less hassle and situations do not arise when someone becomes ill in the steam room due to the lack of a sufficient amount of oxygen.

Ventilation is installed parallel to the construction of the building itself, and the choice of one or another type is made according architectural features the buildings.

Ventilation in the bathhouse, performed at a high-quality level, provides comfortable conditions for steam lovers and allows them to fully enjoy the bathing process

On a note! Ventilation in the bathhouse, performed at a high-quality level, provides comfortable conditions for steam lovers and allows them to fully enjoy the bathing process.

Why is there ventilation in the bathhouse?

To answer the question, why does a bath need ventilation, you should know its intended purpose.

If there is an air circulation system in the steam room and other bath rooms, they:

  • warm up faster, heat fills them more evenly (direct savings on heating);
  • they receive oxygen during the steaming process, vacationers feel comfortable, nothing threatens their health;
  • quickly get rid of excess steam, humidity, and dry;
  • walls, floors, ceilings do not become covered with fungi, mold, objects (benches, tubs) do not darken, the building as a whole does not deform, and will last longer.

If the room is insufficiently ventilated or not ventilated at all, unpleasant putrid odors appear there, and the internal surfaces become covered with a damp, sticky coating. During bathing procedures, vacationers experience a lack of oxygen, difficulty breathing, and risk poisoning carbon monoxide. Also, in the absence of proper air circulation, warm masses will quickly accumulate under the ceiling, and the area near the floor will be constantly cold.

However, you should also know the following: a bathhouse of classical Russian construction, that is, made of logs, is not provided with specially cut ventilation holes! Professionals consider them superfluous, but only in one case: if the bathhouse is not insulated, insulated, or finished with anything, either from the inside or the outside. In a bathhouse without finishing, the lower wall crowns are already laid with holes through which air flows naturally. If there is a stove inside, then ventilation is carried out through the ash pan. And so fresh air is allowed into a Russian bathhouse through a door or window that is open five to seven centimeters. At the same time, the room must be promptly cleared of wet leaves, benches must be dried outside, and heavy air must be expelled by flapping sheets.

Specially installed ventilation in a Russian log bathhouse must be installed in cases where:

  • there is additional insulation or any types of insulation;
  • the floors do not have natural cracks for draining water;

  • the stove is not in the steam room, but in adjacent room;
  • there are no windows.

Important! Only in these cases, the presence of additional ventilation holes and forced circulation systems in a log bathhouse is recognized as mandatory.

Ventilation device: important points

Let us clarify once again: we are talking about arranging ventilation in a classically built log bathhouse only if its natural implementation (through a stove vent, window, door, cracks in the floor) is impossible. Quite often, when building baths, two extremes are observed: ventilation is abandoned altogether or it is made more powerful and unregulated. We discussed above what will happen to vacationers in the steam room in the absence of ventilation. If the ventilation is too intense, the bath will take longer to heat, and the heat will quickly evaporate from the room. The floors will cool down faster, which threatens people with colds.


Fresh air should enter the steam room through an opening located directly behind the stove or under one of the sun loungers. In the first case, hitting a hot stove, the air quickly warms up, the difference between the ceiling and floor temperatures is neutralized. The ventilation hole located under the sunbed has only one advantage - it is not noticeable. There are two disadvantages here - constantly cold floors in the area of ​​the benches, difficult operation of the damper, since it is difficult to reach it with your hand.

Bath ventilation cannot be only supply or only exhaust. It can be exclusively supply and exhaust, since it provides a constant flow of oxygen into the room and the removal of harmful, heavy, exhaust air to the street. Hence, the answer to the question of whether ventilation is needed in a log bathhouse can only be in the affirmative. And we will talk about what types it comes in below.

There are three types of ventilation structures, and they differ in their design.


The systems are:

  • natural;
  • mechanical or forced;
  • combined.

Natural ventilation is ensured during the construction of the building by cutting holes. Dampers (covers) are installed on them, which, if necessary, block the flow of air flows completely or reduce (increase) their volume. This system functions due to the difference in pressure and temperature of the external atmosphere and the internal one. For natural ventilation to work effectively, the vents themselves need to be positioned correctly. The inlet (supply) opening is usually located behind the stove at a distance of 0.3 meters from the floor, the outlet (exhaust) is located opposite on the wall at a distance of 0.3 meters from the ceiling.

This is not the best for a steam room the best option ventilation, since in this case the outlet must be at the same level as the inlet. Thus, the air enters behind the stove, heats up, rises, cools, falls, and is discharged outside through the exhaust vent.

A mechanical or forced (artificial) ventilation system is provided by installing special fans on the openings, laying pipes, and installing electrical equipment. If we compare it with natural, a number of quite significant advantages are revealed, namely:

  1. Oxygen enters the room faster.
  2. The incoming air is filtered.
  3. The indoor microclimate is constantly kept at the same level.
  4. Fresh air is distributed evenly and renewed quickly.

However, in order to maximize the effect of its use, you should strictly monitor the correct location of the supply/exhaust openings.


On a note! Natural ventilation in a log bathhouse is inferior to forced ventilation in several respects.

For example, it is very dependent on the weather, especially if a strong wind is directed towards the intake hole at an angle of ninety degrees. The result of the forced system is always of the same quality in any weather. And the direction and strength of the wind do not play any role for her.

However, installing a mechanical system has its own difficulties. It is impossible to equip it without electrical equipment, which is quite sensitive to the humid microclimate in a steam room with high temperatures. Moreover, moisture and high degrees are the worst enemies of any equipment powered by electricity. Therefore, all elements of the system (fans, motors, etc.) should be reliably isolated from moisture, and when connecting it, strictly follow all operating rules. To seal electrical equipment and all seams, special casings, sealants and metallized tape are most often used.

The presence of ventilation is a prerequisite for a comfortable presence in the bathhouse. To bring in fresh air and remove exhaust air, regular ventilation is most often performed - opening windows, doors, and vents. This type of ventilation is called natural. Unfortunately, it is not always effective. For example, in large baths with a washing compartment (pool) to eliminate unpleasant odors To quickly dry surfaces and create an optimal microclimate, forced ventilation is more effective.

The principle of operation of such a system

Any ventilation system consists of at least two openings. One of them is supply, the other is exhaust. Fresh cold air, entering the steam room through inlet, mixes with warm “local” air. The heat flow is distributed throughout the room. In this case, the exhaust air is pushed towards the exhaust hole and removed through it to the street or to other rooms of the bathhouse.

If natural reasons for the circulation of air flows are not enough, a forced ventilation system is installed. Its essence is that fans are installed on one or both ventilation openings - supply or exhaust. They provide forced air movement. Supply fan draws in fresh air from the outside with its blades, and the exhaust air, on the contrary, pushes out the exhaust air.

Often, grilles (slotted, louvered) or plugs are placed on ventilation ducts, with the help of which the size of the opening and the intensity of air flow circulation are changed.

If the supply opening is open less than the exhaust opening, then ventilation increases. If the air flow speed reaches 0.3 m/s, a feeling of draft occurs. This cannot be allowed. Ideally, air movement should be smooth, slow, and therefore ventilation holes should open approximately the same.

Types of forced ventilation

There are the following types of forced ventilation (depending on the purpose of the fans):

  • exhaust;
  • supply;
  • supply and exhaust.

Let's talk in more detail about each.

Exhaust ventilation

In design exhaust ventilation there is an exhaust fan. It is installed on the exhaust hole ventilation system. There is also a supply hole in this type of system. Usually these are vents with ventilation grilles, windows with plugs, a gap under the door, etc. Exhaust ventilation reduces the air pressure in the steam room (creates a vacuum), which is compensated by the influx of fresh outside air.

Exhaust ventilation effectively removes harmful gases, unpleasant odors, and excess moisture. This is especially true in showers, washrooms, rooms with a swimming pool, and sauna bathrooms.

The exhaust ventilation device is simple. It usually includes a fan and a ventilation duct. Sometimes, when a powerful hood is used, the system is supplemented with a silencer.

Forced ventilation

Supply ventilation almost completely copies the exhaust system. But the fan is installed not to remove used air, but to bring in fresh outside air.

When the supply system operates, the pressure in the room increases, and accordingly the exhaust air is drawn out through exhaust ducts, doors, vents, gaps in the floor, ceiling, and walls.

Supply fans work to draw in cool (and in winter - cold!) street air. To prevent this from reducing the temperature in the steam room, the ventilation system is equipped with special air heaters. Filters are used to clean the supply air.

Supply and exhaust ventilation

This is a combined system consisting of a forced air supply device and mechanical exhaust. In addition to fans, it can be equipped with recuperators, filters, and silencers. It is possible to make the supply and exhaust ventilation completely mechanical by equipping it with an automatic control unit.

The design of supply and exhaust ventilation is the most complex. It is very important at the design stage to calculate the air exchange in the bathhouse. The amount of displaced air must be equal to the amount of supply air. This is ideal. But sometimes this balance is deliberately disrupted to create air flows of the desired direction. For example, if there is a bathroom in the bathhouse, then to prevent unpleasant odors from entering other rooms, a reduced pressure is artificially created in it. By installing a high power hood. After this, the air from the room is more high pressure will independently go to the low pressure zone. That is, go to the bathroom, and not to the steam room, showers, sinks.

Methods of organization and ready-made schemes

Let's look at a few ready-made schemes performing forced ventilation.

Scheme #1. Exhaust ventilation

Behind the stove, 0.3 m from the floor, a supply ventilation hole is installed. The exhaust fan is installed on the opposite wall, a little higher - 0.4-0.5 m from the floor. Fresh air, entering the steam room through the inlet, passes through the stove, warms up and rises to the ceiling. Gradually cooling, it goes down and is drawn in by the exhaust fan. This forced ventilation scheme is quite popular due to the simplicity of the device and the rapid change of air flows.

Scheme #2. Forced ventilation

In a large steam room, for a quick change of air, it is advisable to equip supply ventilation. For better circulation, air flows are directed not from bottom to top, as with natural ventilation, but from top to bottom. An inlet with a fan is installed behind the stove, 0.5 m above its level. The exhaust hole is placed at the bottom of the opposite wall, at a distance of 0.2-0.3 cm from the floor.

Supply ventilation according to this scheme works as follows. Using a fan, cold air is forced into the steam room through the inlet. Once within the range of the stove, it quickly warms up and rises to the ceiling. Cooler currents are forced downwards and exit through the exhaust vent.

Scheme #3. Supply and exhaust ventilation

This diagram is intended for ventilation equipment in steam room and shower. A supply vent with a fan is placed above the stove. Minimum distance from the heater - 50 cm. The exhaust hole (without a fan) is made on the adjacent wall next to the floor, away from the stove. In this case, the diameter of the exhaust air duct should be 2 times larger than the diameter of the supply air duct.

Another exhaust vent with a fan is located in the shower room adjacent to the steam room, under the ceiling. Air enters the shower room from the steam room through the gap under the door.

Some installation features

After choosing a ventilation scheme, it’s time to proceed to its installation. For this you will need following devices and materials:

  • Fan. Heat-resistant, moisture-resistant fans with variable speed control are suitable for baths. Depending on the installation method, they can be channel or radial. Duct ones are installed directly in the air duct, and radial ones - at its outlet.
  • Ventilation box. It can be hard - made of plastic or galvanized steel. Or flexible, made in the form of a corrugated pipe on a metal frame.
  • Ventilation grates. Material of manufacture - according to your preference.

The ventilation system is installed according to the following plan:

  1. According to the chosen scheme, holes are made in the walls (top and bottom). It is advisable that they be planned at the stage of building the bathhouse.
  2. Ventilation ducts are installed in the holes.
  3. Mount (in the box or outside the hole) a fan - exhaust or supply.
  4. Connect the fan to the electrical network. The connection diagram will depend on the desired method of turning on the fan. The fan can turn on in the following ways: simultaneously with the lighting, by pressing a separate switch, through a motion sensor. Shutting down can also be done in different ways. For example, either when the lights are turned off, or after a scheduled time (when using a timer).
  5. Ventilation grilles are placed on the ventilation holes.

Here is an example of fan installation:

Proper installation of forced ventilation will help you organize active air exchange in the bathhouse. As a result, you will get rid of unpleasant odors in washrooms and bathrooms, ensure “easy breathing” in the steam room, and protect yourself from carbon monoxide damage.

The sauna is a great place to spend free time and improve your health.

However, a quality stay in it can only be ensured thanks to ventilation.

During the construction of the steam room, special role Always pay attention to proper sauna ventilation.

This is explained by the following reasons:

  • Provides fresh air supply.
  • She is the one who is capable distribute oxygen throughout the room heat it evenly and evenly.
  • Will contribute to rapid removal of accumulated carbon dioxide, which will facilitate the process of staying in such a space.
  • Due to ventilation in the steam room, proper air circulation, which avoids excessive moisture deposition on all wooden surfaces. As a result, the tree will last longer, it will not become covered with a layer of mold and fungus harmful to the human body, and will not rot.
  • Correct the operation of the stove also directly depends on air exchange.
  • Eliminates the possibility of suffocation, because quite often a group of people gather in the steam room and can drink alcohol to improve their mood. Without an influx of fresh air, within 30 minutes it will be almost impossible to breathe in such a room.
  • The entire room can be well ventilated and thoroughly dried, which is important for a comfortable stay in it.

Paying attention to all the above arguments and asking yourself the question:

Is ventilation needed in a sauna? There is, of course, a clear answer - yes!

The main thing is to do it in a timely manner and correctly, in order to avoid the processes of wood rotting, drafts and unpleasant odors in the future, which will not please visitors to the steam room.

Proper ventilation of a sauna or bathhouse

Access to fresh air and maintaining constant, high temperature can only be achieved thanks to the presence of ventilation in the Finnish sauna. It cannot exist without exhaust and inflow.

The exhaust in the sauna is needed to remove carbon dioxide from it, and the influx creates all the conditions for pure oxygen to enter the room.

Before you start construction, you need to know about the constant rules and regulations for creating it in a bathhouse.

  • After 25-30 minutes of using the sauna, it often becomes difficult to breathe in it, your head begins to feel dizzy and hurt. The reason for this lies in the fact that there is an incorrect change in the musty air filled with steam and human sweat. According to SNIP, the air in such enclosed spaces must be renewed at least 5-6 times per hour. Moreover, its speed can be at least 20 cubic meters for 60 minutes.
  • The exhaust pipe should not be very narrow. It is better to make its diameter the same as that of the inlet.
  • Inlet openings may only be placed at the bottom. The permissible height from the floor cannot be less than 20 cm. Install it strictly behind the stove. Otherwise, the cold air will not have time to heat up, which will lead to drafts and uncomfortable feelings for people staying in such a closed space.
  • To know what pipe cross-section you need to purchase, you should take into account certain norms and rules: per 1 cubic meter of the room being equipped there must be a pipe with a cross-section of at least 24 centimeters.
  • The inlet and outlet openings cannot be opposite each other.
  • It is imperative to think about the possibility of adjusting the air flow, reducing or increasing it. This can be done using valves that are installed in the vents of the bath.
  • Often in a sauna there is a gap left between the bottom of the door and the floor. due to the absence of a threshold or its very low height. Need it for natural exhaust in the Finnish sauna.

The oxygen flow pattern will look correct only if there is more than one hood in the room in question. Paying attention to where the inflow is located, the first exhaust hole is installed strictly on the opposite side of it at a height of up to one metre. The second must be done directly under the ceiling. The main thing at this stage of work is to connect both openings with a single box leading into the chimney or common exhaust duct.

Let's look at the operating principle of a Finnish sauna:

  1. Before starting the steam room, it should be thoroughly ventilated, which will freshen the air.
  2. Close the outlets and doors using valves, which will allow the air in the steam room to heat up quite quickly.
  3. The inlet valve remains open. This is done in order to avoid air thinning.
  4. After waiting for the room to completely warm up, we monitor proper ventilation in the sauna. To do this, open the lower channel slightly. This is how the gradual movement of oxygen begins. At the same time, you need to remember that the upper channel should not be opened, so as not to lose well-heated air from the bath. Fresh, cool air, after entering through the supply channel, is slowly warmed up by the stove and immediately begins to gradually displace the air that has already become stagnant.

Such a system will not be noticeable to people if its preliminary installation is carried out correctly, adhering to all the advice and recommendations of specialists. While in it, vacationers will not even feel discomfort and will enjoy a pleasant temperature and comfortable humidity.

An equally important role is played by the oven, which is installed either in the steam room or in a separate room. It is made of metal and lined with brick on the outside. Performs the following functions in the sauna:

  • Heats the total area of ​​the room.
  • Heats up the water.
  • Produces steam.

When choosing this device, you should be guided by the following criteria:

  • Size is great if the oven is small, which will save space.
  • Must be reliable and safe.
  • Have the ability to heat up quickly.
  • Have a low cost.
  • Must have a long shelf life in order to constantly withstand heavy loads and temperature changes.
  • When choosing a stove, first of all, consider its power and size relative to the size of the sauna.

Kinds

Today, there are three types of sauna ventilation. Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Natural

Occurs due to pressure differences indoors and outdoors. It is characterized by low installation costs and ease of operation. This is done in the following ways:

  • Due to wind pressure, which seems possible only in buildings made of logs. Air pressure inside a room arises due to powerful gusts of wind, which create a significant vacuum of air on the leeward side. The movement of air in and out occurs through the gaps between the logs.

The disadvantage of this type of ventilation is that it is impossible to regulate it, which directly affects the temperature inside the bath.

As a result strong wind drafts are possible, which also causes no less inconvenience for vacationers.

  • Thanks to aeration. Its meaning lies in the penetration of air masses directly from the street through the bottom of the room, in which there are special vents. Street air, entering the sauna, squeezes out a hot stream from above and directs it into the air duct. This sauna ventilation system is perfect for rooms with very hot air and big amount pair. Oxygen circulation occurs very quickly here.

Mechanical

It is installed only in cases where it is impossible to provide fresh ventilation in the sauna. That is why it is also called forced. It consists of quite expensive elements: coolers, heaters, fans and air filters.

To achieve the exit of treated air from the room, during forced ventilation in the sauna, exhaust fans are used, on which filters must be mounted.

This type of ventilation is used in very large rooms, where there are swimming pools, showers and a huge number of visitors. It makes the air clean from steam, sweat and unpleasant odors in a short time.

Using mechanical ventilation, a forced flow of oxygen is used. This is achieved through very complex system, having the following components:

  • Supply chamber.
  • Mechanisms that reduce noise.
  • Diffusers.
  • Check valves.
  • Distribution grids.

To ensure that the supply air is comfortable when entering the room, it is pre-cleaned and heated.

Combined

It is used in baths only if this is directly due to the peculiarities of their structure. Thus, a sauna located in a house and bordering three of its walls with common housing cannot have natural ventilation. In this case, it will not be possible to arrange the inlet and outlet holes according to all the rules. Therefore, in compliance with the standards, it is allowed to equip the supply opening at a height of at least 20 cm from the floor, and the exhaust opening is placed on the same wall at a similar distance from the ceiling.

The principle of operation of such air exchange is that cold air enters the room, passes it through the stove, heats it and circulates throughout the sauna.

Be sure to install valves on all openings to regulate the flow.

The disadvantage of such a system is the rather strong speed and amount of air masses.

In some cases, the supply channel is mounted not under the heater, but above it. The outlet is placed on the opposite side a few centimeters higher. This will reduce the air flow, but there is rice that does not have enough air flow. To avoid this, a fan is additionally installed in the outlet channel.

Ventilation system diagrams

There are three device schemes:

  • Express consists of installing the supply duct strictly behind the stove at a level of 20 cm from the floor. Be sure to place an exhaust vent on the opposite wall at the same distance, inside which a fan is placed.

The street air entering the room is instantly warmed up by the stove, which is already hot at that time. Then it rises to the ceiling, cools down a little, lowers it down and is taken out of the bathhouse. Thanks to this air flow, the most comfortable temperature for the human body is achieved, because all air masses are mixed gradually and evenly.

  • If the sauna is located inside an existing premises and it has only one wall bordering the street, the inlet and outlet channels are mounted on this surface. Main conditions: they are located at the same distance from the floor and ceiling (20 cm) directly opposite the stove. So, there is a forced outflow at the top, and an inflow at the bottom.

With this scheme, the air entering the room is immediately directed to the stove and gradually heated, after which it is discharged outside.

  • The mildest heating of air masses is achieved through the use of this scheme. Its principle is to locate the inlet channel behind the stove at a height of 60 cm from the floor, and the outlet channel with a fan just on the opposite wall at a height of 20 cm from the floor.

Outdoor oxygen, penetrating into the room, heats up and rises. Already slightly cooled air masses leave the building. Thanks to the slower flow, staying in such a sauna becomes very comfortable.

Ventilation device in the sauna

When planning to make ventilation in the sauna with your own hands, you should not forget that you need to ensure high-quality air exchange of the floor of this premises. Otherwise the premises will quickly fall into disrepair, and flooring will not last more than 3 years.

Floor ventilation involves the following stages:

  1. During construction concrete base install vents on opposite walls of the basement. If the foundation has already been built, then any interference with its integrity can significantly affect the quality of the entire structure.
  2. In opposite walls, cut through holes for air intake, which are recommended to be covered with metal grilles. This will prevent various rodents and insects from entering the room.
  3. When arranging the stove, the vent should be slightly below the upper floor level, which will allow it to work as a hood.
  4. When installing floor boards, it is necessary to leave small gaps between them, the size of which should not exceed 10 mm. This will allow the water to drain naturally through the floor.

Let's look at how to make ventilation in a sauna depending on its location.

Ventilation in a sauna with an electric heater:

  • Be sure to leave a height gap of up to 5 cm under the door.
  • The inlet channel is placed under the stove.
  • Exit holes are made on the opposite wall: one above the floor, the other under the ceiling.
  • For proper operation, the holes are connected by a duct, which is discharged into the chimney or the entire ventilation system of the house.
  • Shutters are installed on the air ducts, which makes it possible to regulate the flow.

Ventilation of a sauna in a private house requires the presence of ideal waterproofing material in such a room.

Most often it is placed near the bathroom, because it already has its own hood, which facilitates the process of connecting two air exchanges.

Ventilation in the sauna in the basement is connected using ducts to common system Houses. In these types of baths, an electric stove is installed on the floor or hung on the wall.

  • We should also not forget about ventilation errors in a home sauna:
  • Air duct diagrams need to be thought out in advance.
  • Lack of clearance under the door and an opening for inflow can lead to suffocation.
  • Creating a hole only for air outflow results in a lack of air circulation.
  • The absence of valves results in an inability to regulate flow.
  • The input and output channels are placed opposite each other at the same level, which leads to the presence of drafts.
  • For ventilation, you should not use too expensive equipment, because constant temperature fluctuations will quickly require repairs and, possibly, renewal of some components.

How much does it cost

When planning to make ventilation in the sauna with your own hands, you need to know that its cost will cost approximately 24-38 thousand rubles. Everything will depend on the cost of components.

  • A ventilation valve can be purchased for 650-1500 rubles.
  • A grill for 300-400 rubles.
  • Supply and exhaust system for 18,500 rubles.

Creating a high-quality air exchange system is an important part of the operation of a sauna, so the selection of its components, as well as the installation process, must be approached thoughtfully and in a timely manner.

It is impossible to answer the question of whether plastic ventilation is possible in a bathhouse. Such systems have proven their practicality and performance in home and industrial environments, but the bath environment has its own specifics, which to a certain extent limits the use of plastic. When choosing plastic products for a bath in each specific case should be approached taking into account all influencing factors and possible consequences.

The bathhouse can use plastic pipes for ventilation in the bathhouse

Reasons for the popularity of plastic

Ventilation structures made of plastic elements have gained wide popularity in various areas of human life. This is due to their attractive appearance and numerous advantages over traditional metal competitors.

Note! The most widely used parts are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyurethane and polypropylene.

The following positive aspects of plastic ventilation are highlighted:

  1. No corrosion. This advantage most often determines the choice of plastic. Any metal (even stainless steel) in ventilation systems where steam condensation occurs and the aggressive effects of various substances that pollute the air are susceptible to corrosion. Plastic is absolutely resistant in this regard.
  2. Low cost. Plastic systems have a significantly lower price compared to metal, which provides increased resistance to corrosion.
  3. Simplicity and quality of installation. During installation metal boxes and pipes, problems always arise in places where there are knocks, requiring rolling, welding, and other operations. Cutting and joining plastic elements is not difficult, and the ends are easy to process and align. Thus, sealing plastic boxes much easier to provide.
  4. Light weight. This advantage is ensured by ease of installation at the installation site and transportation when delivering the goods.
  5. Plastic elements are resistant to water, steam, aggressive environments, and ultraviolet rays. They match everything sanitary standards under normal conditions.

Installation of PVC pipes for ventilation

Features of use in the bath

In order to decide whether plastic ventilation is suitable for a bathhouse, it is necessary to note the disadvantages of such systems:

  1. Low heat resistance of plastic. Already at temperatures above 80-85 degrees, the release of harmful components from the substance that poisons begins human body. When heated, plastic loses its strength and rigidity, which leads to deformation.
  2. Low resistance to impact open fire. Despite the fact that PVC does not support combustion, it easily melts, and its drops, falling on other structures, cause a fire. In general, plastic elements belong to the group of flammable materials, which requires great care when placing them near sauna stove and chimney. Even with a small fire, a large amount of acrid smoke is released, which is very dangerous for humans.
  3. Reduced resistance to cutting, abrasion, scratching. Under impact and cutting loads, plastic is easily damaged or deformed.

Taking into account the above problems, we can conclude whether plastic ventilation is suitable for a bathhouse. The most extreme conditions celebrated in the steam room. In the Russian bath, the temperature is maintained at about 60-65 degrees with saturated water vapor. Such temperatures seem to be lower than permissible, but they are close to critical values, and at the slightest excess they lead to the decomposition of plastic. Thus, the use of plastic ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath is dangerous to human health. It is completely unacceptable to use it in a sauna steam room, where the temperature can reach 100 degrees.


Smoke from burning plastic is very corrosive and can lead to poisoning.

In other bath rooms (washing area, dressing room, rest room) the air temperature does not have large quantities, and extreme conditions are associated with high humidity, which is not at all dangerous for plastic. Therefore, we can conclude that ventilation in a bathhouse made of plastic pipes is quite acceptable in all rooms except the steam room.


Important! Please note Special attention on the location of the stove and its chimney, near which the air temperature may be critical. In addition, fire hazardous conditions arise here.


Particular care must be taken with the location plastic pipe for ventilation in the bathhouse. It is better to place it behind a brick lining if it is located near the stove.

Design features

IN standard kit Bath forced ventilation includes the following main elements: fan (exhaust and supply); ventilation pipes and ducts; vents with plugs; connecting and component elements. Among the important components, the following stand out:

  • turns: designed to change the direction of the ventilation duct;
  • adapters: necessary when connecting route elements of different sizes;
  • forks and tees: installed when it is necessary to divide the incoming air flow into several rooms;
  • couplings: connecting and holding elements;
  • flanges and gearboxes.

The basis of forced ventilation is made up of exhaust type fans installed on the outlet vent, or the supply type, designed to suck in fresh air from outside and form an air flow. Most commonly used supply system, and the fan can be installed alone to serve all rooms or several devices separately in each room. In the first case, a fairly powerful mechanism is installed, usually with metal blades, and the flow distribution then proceeds through plastic ventilation channels. Small fans in a plastic case with plastic blades can be installed in each room.


Plastic fans are used for exhaustion in the sauna.

Plastic air ducts for ventilation of the type of bath in question are an important part of the system. They distribute the incoming air flow and direct it to desired zone.


Another option is to install an exhaust fan not in the outlet vent, but directly in the most stagnant area. In this case, it is mounted at the end of the exhaust ventilation duct, through which contaminated air is directed outside.

Plastic boxes and pipes are produced various shapes and sizes. They can be round or rectangular in cross-section, and smooth or corrugated in design. Most often, the incoming powerful air flow is directed into rectangular boxes and then distributed through round pipes.

Nuance! Corrugated construction is used in places where pipe movement in different directions is required, or to adjust elements to length.


Types of composite connecting elements of the ventilation system

Air ducts have various sizes, which are selected depending on the required system power and the volume of incoming air. Round pipes for the bath they have standard diameter in the range of 56-160 mm. Among rectangular ducts, the most common are air ducts measuring 6x12 and 6x20.5 cm. Corrugated elements usually have a round shape, and the diameter of such a pipe ranges from 15-55 cm.


Plastic air ducts for ventilation are round and rectangular shape

Additional items

In addition to the indicated elements used when installing the ventilation system in the bathhouse, they are used plastic parts, performing protective and regulatory functions. These include various dampers, hatches and grilles.


Plastic grilles can have different purposes. The following main varieties are distinguished:

  • inertial type: for flow separation without pressurization;
  • adjustable grilles: allow you to change the volume of incoming air and distribution in one direction while blocking air movement in the other;
  • unregulated type: distribution or flow restrictions without the possibility of regulation;
  • external protective grilles: to prevent foreign bodies from entering the channel.

Hood grates can be of an adjustable type

Plastic hatches can be installed in powerful, branched systems to allow access to the ventilation line for inspection, cleaning, and repair. They can be mounted on the ceiling or walls of the bathhouse. Door-style flaps are designed to allow access to natural flow. They can be mounted on natural ventilation vents in a window or door. Standard sizes– 10x10, 15x30 and 25x60 cm.

Features of the arrangement

You can install plastic ventilation in a bathhouse yourself. Main stages of work: production of vents; installation of fans; installation and fastening of the entrance box; installation and fastening of the incoming air flow branching system; arrangement of an outlet vent; installation of dampers and hatches.


When carrying out work, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

  1. The plastic elements are connected to each other by soldering. If there are threaded elements, sockets, flanges, adapters, and couplings are used, which makes it possible to provide a dismountable system.
  2. A special sealant is used to seal the joints.
  3. Cutting elements or changing their shape is done using a knife or a special hacksaw.

Connection diagram of the fan section in forced system ventilation

For installation work You will need the following tools: electric drill, screwdriver, grinder, knife, hacksaw, pliers and side cutters, screwdriver, paint brush, tape measure, metal ruler.


Before use, it is necessary to check the ventilation system in the bathhouse

Plastic ventilation in the bathhouse can be installed in all rooms except the steam room. Plastic cannot be used in it due to the risk of harmful emissions when heated. You can easily install the system yourself.

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