How to set up a digital camera. How to use any Nikon DSLR

Both experts and photographers unanimously agreed that each of the following 44 advice plays an important role in honing skills.

So arm yourself with new knowledge about using the settings of your digital cameras to reach new heights.

Imagine a situation in which an interesting picture suddenly appears in front of you, and you want to capture it. Push the trigger and get frustrated. Because the frame was shot with an inappropriate ISO value, etc. The moment is lost. You can avoid this if you check and reset your settings every time. camera before moving from one shot to the next. Choose the settings according to the shooting conditions.

Format the memory card before taking pictures. Quick format does not erase images. Formatting the memory card beforehand minimizes the risk of any data corruption.

The firmware in the camera is the image processing software, adjusting a whole range of settings and even controlling the functions available to you. Check your camera manufacturer's website for information on how to keep your camera up-to-date with the latest software.

Do not blindly rely on the fact that the battery in your camera is fully charged. Charge it up and make sure it has enough power if you plan on shooting for a long time. And in the event that you prefer to photograph a lot, then it would be best for you to purchase a spare battery.

In most cases, the camera defaults to shooting at high resolution no matter what you are photographing. But do you always need it? Sometimes a small image is enough for you. After all, reducing the resolution means not only that more photos will fit on the memory card. In such a case, you can also increase the shooting speed. If you like sports photography, then a reduced resolution will help you avoid delays while your camera clears its buffer.

If you are going to edit the captured frames, do retouching, then more suitable format RAW due to its increased capacity. But RAW files are large, so the camera will take longer to work with them. In addition, you will not be able to print them without pre-processing.

If the shooting speed does not play an important role for you, then it is difficult to decide. Why not use both formats at the same time in this case? Most digital cameras provide this capability. And only when the images are on your computer decide on the format. The main thing is not to forget about an additional memory card.

When professional photographers are not focused on target photography, they spend a lot of time experimenting. This could be testing a lens to determine the best aperture or focal length for it. As well as checking the ISO and white balance to see which options give the most top scores, or even dynamic range testing to keep abreast of the sensor's capabilities.
You can do the same with your camera to know exactly where its strengths and weak sides. This is not a search for the perfect shot, but experimentation with the equipment to learn about its potential and try out new methods that will come in handy in future shooting.

A good tripod is worth its weight in gold, so don't skimp on this item. It is better to buy a quality tripod that will last you a long time. This is a long term investment. And don't forget to take it with you when you go shooting.

The very fact of mounting the camera on a tripod can slow you down. While this will help you concentrate on what you are photographing, fixing the camera can take away the spontaneity of your shots. We come to the conclusion that it is best to mix both of these techniques, using them alternately. If you're rigorously using a tripod, try taking shots without using one. Also, if you usually work without a tripod, take it with you to see if the difference is in your photographic results.

Tip #10: Impromptu camera support

You don't have to use a tripod to keep the camera stable. Be creative. You can use a wall or a tree as support, or even a bag of rice as a platform. All this will help to avoid camera shake.

The horizon line in the photo should look strictly horizontal, without slopes. If your digital camera has a digital horizon, use it. This will help you save time when editing your shots later in Photoshop. Many DSLRs have an auxiliary reticle that can be activated. It is superimposed on the live image and is visible on the LCD screen of the camera. Focus on her. The horizon must match the horizontal grid line. Also, use the AF points in the center of the viewfinder to do the same.

This may seem obvious, but double-check your camera bag if you're going to be photographing away from home. It can contain a camera, lenses, a tripod and accessories for it. Don't forget the adapter ring (adapter adapter) if you use screen filters and the like. A forgotten small detail is more likely to ruin a trip than the main elements of your kit.

Do not rely too much on the camera's autofocus. In some situations, manual focus is much better. For example, to photograph a fast-moving subject on a race track or focusing in detail when shooting macro.

SLR digital compacts can have a dizzying array of AF points. But for most shots, you only need one - the center one. Position it behind your subject, press the shutter button halfway to lock the focus, and then simply recompose the shot.

A bad lens will always be a bad lens no matter what camera you put it on. Therefore, before you decide to change your camera, thinking that you have "outgrown" it, consider purchasing a new lens. This may turn out good decision. A few extra pixels and smart settings in a new camera might seem like a tempting prospect. But most likely you will be more suitable for a maximum aperture and more high quality optics to improve the quality of pictures with your existing camera.

There are thousands of lenses left from the days of 35mm film. Many DSLRs are "backwards compatible" with them (notably Nikon and Pentax). They can still find use in our digital age. In addition, they are so affordable that they provide a great opportunity to expand your arsenal with focal length. But there is also a downside. Some lenses perform better than others, and the only real way to sort out the good ones from the bad is to try them out. In general, zoom lenses, as well as wide-angle focal lengths, tend to perform worse. In addition, there is a need for manual focusing. In-camera exposure metering can be unpredictable and unreliable. However, there are a few manual focus lenses that can really out-perform the current inexpensive zoom lenses in terms of sharpness.

Wide-angle lenses can give the impression of increased distance between near and far elements, while telephoto lenses visually bring the subject closer, compressing perspective. Use focal length situationally. Consider the distance of the subject of photography.

If you want to increase the depth of field in the frame at a given focal length, then select manual focusing of the camera to the hyperfocal distance (HFR). This will ensure maximum image sharpness from half the focal length to infinity.

Most viewfinders don't give you 100% coverage, so it's easy for unwanted elements to enter the frame. The only way to avoid this is to simply check the camera's LCD screen after taking a test shot. If there is nothing extra in the frame, change the composition and photograph again.

Even when shooting static subjects, use continuous burst mode. Subtle changes in lighting, such as when photographing a landscape with floating clouds. Or while taking a portrait, when a change in facial expression is noticeable. These are examples of shooting where "beautiful moments" happen, which can be missed if you take a single shot. So shoot a lot and then choose the best shots.

Serious photographers are skeptical about this. But we urge you not to completely ignore your camera's exposure modes. Especially for the paparazzi. For example, Landscape mode tends to set a small aperture and increase saturation. And Portrait mode combines a wide aperture with more muted colors. Both can be used outside of their intended purpose. The main thing is understanding the given parameters and their creative application.

Don't underestimate your camera mode (P). Selecting it effectively sets the most suitable aperture value and shutter speed for correct exposure of the frame in automatic mode. If you need a wide aperture, just jump into the program to get it. Want a slower shutter speed? Twist in the opposite direction.

In a nutshell, the aperture controls the depth of field of the image, and the shutter speed controls the shutter speed, that is, the speed of shooting. Not sure which shooting mode to choose? Decide which of these two elements you want to have maximum control over while shooting. This will be your decision.

If you don't know what the dynamic range of your camera's sensor is, you won't be able to tell when a scene will exceed it. This way you will lose highlights or shadow details. There are many ways to measure dynamic range. DxO Labs has tested many digital cameras. You can always use their data as a guideline. Visit www.dxomark.com for the range limits of your camera.

You can adjust the exposure of the image in the editor program. But any noise will increase in an underexposed frame, while overexposed shots are basically impossible to recover. When in doubt, apply bracketing. You will receive three frames from different values given parameter, one of which is correctly exposed. Use this feature even if you decide to shoot in RAW format.

Do not rely literally on the image histogram on your camera's LCD monitor. In bright light, images will appear darker than they really are. And looking at the screen at night, you will see a brighter image, even if it is slightly underexposed. Therefore, it is necessary to learn how to read the histogram correctly. It is the only way to accurately estimate the overall brightness level of an image and to assess the need for image adjustments. If the histogram hits the right end of the scale, consider reducing the exposure and reshoot.

It is much easier to restore image details in the shadow areas of the image than the highlights. Therefore, with a significant level of contrast, maintain a high level of detail in bright areas.

Matrix (evaluative, multi-zone) camera metering measures the level of illumination in a scene. Spot metering is also extremely useful. This matters when you are shooting mostly bright or dark scenes. You can use it to set the middle tone, for example when shooting pavement or grass.

The camera's spot metering will allow you to get accurate meter readings to determine the contrast in a scene. Pick one point from the brightest area and another from the darkest. Determine the range between them. If it exceeds the dynamic range of the camera, you will have to resort to some clipping such as shadows, highlights. Or consider shooting for HDR ( High Dynamic range).

To determine the exposure range for HDR images, you need to take a meter reading from the darkest and brightest part of the scene. Then set the camera to aperture priority mode. Switch to manual iris mode and use your readings as the starting and ending points for successive HDR images. Temporarily stop the shutter speed until you cover the exposure range. Exposures can be combined into programs such as Photomatix.

Tip #31: Use ND Filters to Balance Exposure

For landscape shots, use an ND filter (Neutral Density) to balance the exposure between the sky and the ground. It's best to have a set of NDs with varying degrees of shading to be ready for different conditions. Also, take two shots - one for the sky and one for the foreground. Then mix them in your editing software.

Tip #32: Using an ND Filter to Extend Exposure

ND (Neutral Density) filters are quite dark. If you want to extend your shutter speed, then they can be a problem for aperture control. A three stop ND filter will allow you to open your aperture three stops to get a shallow depth of field. Moreover, even in bright light conditions.

The effect of a polarizing filter cannot be recreated digitally. This makes it an indispensable choice for outdoor photographers looking to soften or enhance blue sky reflections. Don't skimp on price or you will have to skimp on quality.

Tip #34: Black and white on camera or computer?

If you're unsure that you want to print black and white images from your memory card, it's best to shoot in color. You can then convert pictures using image editing software. It will give you more options than your camera. If you decide to shoot black and white images in JPEG format, don't forget about the filter. Red, orange and yellow filters can add drama to a dull sky. And the orange filter will reduce the appearance of freckles and blemishes in portraits.

Since JPEG files are processed in-camera at the time of shooting, it is preferable for them to use a predetermined balance white color. Choose from the provided camera options (daylight, shade, incandescent, etc.) rather than relying on the automatic option. Although automatic white balance is considered "basic" to some extent. If you shoot in RAW format, you can afford to set the white balance when processing your images.

If you're shooting in JPEG format and your camera allows it, try activating white balance bracketing. JPEG files take up minimal space on your memory card, and this can save you many hours of fixing unwanted tints.

Intentionally setting the white balance incorrectly can give images an overall cast. of blue color. This is if you shoot in daylight with white balance in incandescent mode. And if you take a picture under an incandescent lamp with white balance in day mode you get a warm shade of orange. When shooting sunsets, auto white balance may try to change the overall warm tone, although that's exactly what you're trying to capture. In that case, trick your camera and set the white balance to cloudy mode, which is meant to warm up a cool scene.

If you want the colors in your photos to be consistent from shot to shot, set a color as the target in the first frame of the sequence. When it comes to processing, set the gray (or black and white) points with the target frame and your software will match the subsequent series of images.

Fill flash is great for lifting shadows, and it can also help create dramatic looks. Use the camera's exposure compensation to reduce the overall exposure by half a stop, and then increase the exposure compensation by +1/2 to balance it out. Some cameras allow you to adjust exposure for ambient light without affecting flash exposure, in which case you won't need to dial +1/2 for flash. As a result, you will get a frame where a well-lit subject dominates, standing out against a slightly darker background.

Like a flash, an external flash built into the camera has a qualitative effect on images. Especially if you use a dedicated flash that can be controlled and reflectors to reduce harsh shadows.

Use a significantly shorter flash duration than exposure time to freeze high-speed events. The easiest thing to start with is a drop of water. And all you need for this is a dark room, a flash, and lots and lots of patience. Try it and you will get mesmerizing images with water drops. And these are just the first steps in shooting with high-speed flash.

Video shooting with a SLR camera equipped with a CMOS sensor is accompanied by a rolling shutter. It may cause some peculiar phenomena when shooting video. Rolling shutter exposes each video frame in sequence, starting at the top and moving down. This is similar to how a scanner scans a document. If the camera is immobilized at this time, then there is no problem. But if you're taking panoramic shots, especially horizontally, the vertical lines can be deformed. Holding the camera in your hands and using a telephoto lens can exacerbate the effect. So use a tripod and/or a wider angle lens. Cameras with a CCD sensor don't have this effect because they use a "general shutter" that exposes each frame in its entirety, just like a still image.

Most DSLRs that allow you to shoot video offer a wide range of frame rates. By the way, in the UK, 25 frames per second (FPS) is considered standard. You can consider this speed as "standard" for your video if you are going to show it on a TV screen. However, if your camera allows you, you can increase the video recording speed up to 50fps. Thus create Effect delayed movement when the video is playing at 25 fps. It will look spectacular at half speed, because every second of the footage will play on the screen for two seconds longer. The standard level for a movie is 24fps. Although the difference of one frame per second does not seem significant, it is enough to give your footage a real cinematic look.

So much has been said about small dust particles that can get on the camera's sensor and cause image imperfections that many photographers are paranoid about changing lenses. But this is one of the main advantages of DSLR photography! There are a few simple precautions to take. Always turn off the camera when changing lenses. This will eliminate any static charge from the sensor that could attract dust particles. Shield your camera from wind and weather, and make sure you have an interchangeable lens ready for installation. And keep the hole of the camera lens pointing down. This will minimize the risk of foreign matter getting in when changing lenses.

In contact with

Many novice photographers have the question of how to set up their camera to get the best results their camera is capable of. While there are no “magic” settings that work in all situations and with any camera, there are some basic settings that work well with any camera you have.

In addition, do not forget about special shooting modes - they greatly facilitate the process of taking pictures, especially for beginners. So, let's take a closer look at the basic camera settings for beginner amateur photographers.

First of all, let's look at what settings are available in any modern digital camera. Since they are more or less universal, you should be able to find any of the following settings on a modern camera, regardless of its make and model:

Image quality: RAW
RAW format: Lossless Compressed (if available)
White balance: Auto
Picture Controls / Picture Style / Creative Style / Film Simulation: Standard
Color space: sRGB
Long exposure noise reduction: enabled
High ISO Noise Reduction: Off
Activ D-Lighting / DRO, HDR, Lens correction (vignetting control, chromatic aberration control, distortion control, etc.): off.

All the parameters listed above are extremely important. First of all, start by choosing the right RAW file format. If your camera has a RAW file compression option, always select the Lossless Compressed option, as this format reduces the amount of disk space taken up by RAW files.

Of course, when shooting in RAW, settings like Picture Controls don't matter (they only affect how the image is displayed on the LCD screen), but it's still best to leave standard values. The same should be done with such parameters as Sharpness, Contrast, Saturation, etc. since such settings only matter when shooting in JPEG format.

When shooting in RAW, you also don't have to worry about color space, since you can change their parameters at the post-processing stage.

It's a good idea for a beginner to turn on long exposure noise reduction, as it also works when shooting in RAW, reducing the amount of noise in your images (although it doubles the time it takes to take a picture).

All other functions and settings related to lens correction, dynamic range optimization, noise reduction, and so on, can be disabled, because when shooting in RAW, they do not have any effect on the image you receive.

Having finished with the basic camera settings, let's look at the points that matter when taking photos.

What is the best shooting mode?

Many photographers continue to argue that manual mode is the best shot because it allows you to have the most control over your camera, but let me disagree. Modern cameras are amazing at metering the scene correctly, so why not use one of the semi-automatic shooting modes instead of shooting in manual mode?

For example, I prefer aperture priority 90% of the time because not only does it do a great job of leaving me control over the aperture, but it also allows me to choose how bright or dark the resulting image will be. If the camera gives me an image that's brighter than I would like it to be, then I just use the Exposure Compensation button and I'm happy with the result.

What is exposure compensation, and how to use it, you can learn more from.

Exposure compensation button on Nikon (A) and Canon (B)

If you're wondering if it's worth shooting in any of your camera's scene modes (e.g. Macro, Sports, Fireworks, etc.), I would not recommend using these modes for a number of reasons. The main one is that such modes differ significantly not only between different camera manufacturers, but also different models the same manufacturer. Therefore, if you get used to shooting in one of the scene modes on one camera, then when you switch to another, you may not find it. In addition, in most models of professional and semi-professional level, there are simply no scene modes.

Which autofocus mode is best for shooting?

Whatever you photograph, you should always be sure that you have selected the best autofocus mode. For example, if you are photographing a stationary subject, you can use the single focus mode (also known as "Single Area AF", "One Shot AF" or simply "AF-S"), but if the subject you are photographing is constantly moving, you you need to switch to continuous/servo autofocus mode, as you will most likely want the camera to actively track the subject.

To make shooting easier for beginners, camera manufacturers sometimes include a hybrid mode in the camera that automatically switches between single focus mode and continuous autofocus mode depending on whether the subject is static or actively moving. This hybrid mode ("AF-A" on Nikon and "AI Focus AF" on Canon) can be an excellent choice for those who find it difficult to constantly switch between single and continuous focus modes.

On some cameras, you may come across an automatic autofocus (Auto AF) mode that evaluates the scene and tries to focus on the subject closest to you or on the subject that the camera considers the most important. I wouldn't recommend this mode for beginners as it's still better to control where the camera focuses by moving the focus point. To do this, you will need to select the single-point focus mode. You can then either move the focus point in the viewfinder or move the camera so that the focus point is on the subject:

Which metering mode to choose for shooting

Your cell may have several different modes exposure metering - you can learn more about each of them from our article:. For most situations, matrix/evaluative metering is best because it evaluates the entire scene you are shooting and is usually the best at revealing objects in your scene.

What is the best aperture for shooting?

Lens aperture affects not only the degree to which the subject is isolated from the foreground and background, but also the amount of light that passes through the lens and hits the camera sensor. That is why the aperture value in a given situation must be chosen very carefully. In addition, aperture can affect image sharpness and depth of field.

If you're shooting in low light or want to avoid fuzzy photos due to camera shake when shooting in manual mode, then your best bet is to choose the widest aperture your lens can offer. So you can ensure that the camera sensor hits most Sveta. For example, if you're shooting with a 35mm f/1.8 lens, then under the conditions described above, you should stick with f/1.8. If a beautiful landscape opens up in front of you, and you want to capture a sharp photograph of the entire landscape, then the best option will cover the lens aperture to f/5.6.

Aperture often determines how far the subject will be separated from the background, but its functions are not limited to this.

Aperture is often related to how your subject separates from the background, but this is just one of its many functions. The photo above clearly demonstrates the differences in images captured at various apertures - f / 2.8 and f / 8.0, respectively.

How to choose a shutter speed for shooting?

As with aperture, the answer to the question of what is the best shutter speed to use for photography depends on what you are going to shoot. For example, if your goal is to take a romantic photo of a waterfall, you should choose a slow shutter speed, on the order of a few seconds, to get a blurry image of the water flow:

If you want to freeze a subject, especially a moving one, you will need to use very fast shutter speeds of a fraction of a second:

However, for most situations, you're better off using a shutter speed that is fast enough to capture a clear image of your subject without causing camera shake. For this reason, you should activate the Auto ISO feature.

What is the best ISO to use for photography?

You have most likely heard and read that it is always best to choose the lowest available ISO for shooting, as it provides least amount noise in your images (reduces their graininess). Any photographer strives to ensure that his photos are less noisy due to too high an ISO value.

However, shooting at the lowest ISO settings isn't always practical, especially when shooting in low light. In such situations, you need to increase the ISO to slow down the shutter speed to avoid image blur due to unintentional camera shake.

Remember that a good photo always balances between aperture, shutter speed and ISO.

Your camera most likely has an ISO Auto (or equivalent) function, which can be very handy tool for the beginner photographer. Once activated, your camera will automatically adjust the ISO based on how bright your subject and surrounding scene are, trying to keep your shutter speed consistent with the minimum shutter speed set in the ISO function setup menu.

Probably, every novice photographer, seriously passionate about his work, sooner or later thinks about buying a SLR camera. However, do not think that the acquisition of a “SLR” alone is enough to start creating masterpieces.

Of course, most DSLRs come with decent auto settings to take decent amateur shots, but it's much more fun to use your camera to its full potential. And he, believe me, can do a lot - you just need to learn how to use it correctly.

So, let's start talking about how to take pictures the right way. reflex camera.

Focus and Depth of Field

Surely, looking at the work of professional photographers on the Internet or in magazines, you paid attention to the difference in sharpness between the foreground and background. The main subject of the picture looks sharp and clear, while the background is blurred.

It is almost impossible to achieve such an effect with an amateur camera, and this is due to the smaller size of the matrix. The sharpness of such images is evenly distributed over the entire screen, that is, all the details have approximately the same clarity.

This is by no means a bad thing, and is great for shooting landscapes or architecture, but for portraits, a well-detailed background will distract from the main subject, and the overall picture will look flat.

The reflex camera, having a large matrix size, allows you to adjust the depth of field.

Depth of field of the depicted space (DOF)- the range between the front and back borders of the sharp area in the photograph, that is, exactly the part of the image that the photographer highlights in the picture.

What affects the IPIG and how to learn to manage it? One such factor is focal length. Focusing - aiming the lens at the object, providing it with maximum sharpness. SLR cameras have several focus modes, from which you have to choose the most suitable one for specific shooting conditions. Let's consider each separately.

Single autofocus – the most popular and convenient mode in static conditions, in which focusing is carried out, as mentioned above, by half-pressing the shutter button. Its undoubted advantage is the ability to change the position of the camera at your discretion without lifting your finger from the button. The object you selected will remain in focus. The disadvantage of the mode is the delay, which is created by the need to refocus on the object each time.
Continuous autofocus – mode suitable for shooting moving subjects. The focus moves at the same time as the subject, and you don't have to refocus every time. Of course, this mode has a number of errors: due to the change in speed and distance, the device does not always manage to focus in the right way, and not every frame will be successful. However, the chances of taking at least a few good shots are also quite high.
Mixed autofocus – a combination of the first two options. When it is activated, the camera shoots in the first mode exactly until the moment when the object starts moving, and then automatically switches to the second one. This shooting mode is great for beginners as the camera takes care of focusing issues, leaving the photographer free to focus on composition and other factors.

Learn how to get rid of the first steps in your career and your path will be easier.
Always try to develop and improve. In addition to practice, theory will also be useful: big selection photosites for photographers.
For high-quality portrait work, good light is needed. You can learn how to make a softbox with your own hands at this address:

Shutter speed and aperture

The second factor that affects depth of field is aperture value.

The aperture controls the amount of sunlight that enters the lens by opening and closing the shutters of the lens aperture. The more open the sash, the more light it lets in. It is with its help that you can distribute the sharpness in the picture and achieve the creative effect you need.

You need to remember a simple ratio:

how smaller hole aperture, the greater the depth of field.

If the aperture is closed, the sharpness is evenly distributed throughout the frame. An open aperture just makes it possible to blur the background or other not so significant objects, leaving sharp only what you want to focus your camera on.

Excerpt- the period of time during which the shutter is open. Thus, the number of light rays that have ripened to pass inside depends on the duration of this gap. Of course, this affects the look of your image in a very direct way. The longer the shutter speed, the more "blurred" the objects will be. A short shutter speed, on the contrary, makes them static.

With stable lighting, shutter speed and aperture are directly proportional to each other: the more open the aperture, the faster the shutter speed - and vice versa. Why this is so is not difficult to guess. Both of these affect the amount of light needed for your shot. If the aperture is wide open, the amount of light is already sufficient and a slow shutter speed is not required.

Light sensitivity

Light sensitivity (ISO)- the susceptibility of the matrix to light during the opening of the diaphragm.

The ISO value also does not have to be set by yourself - you can use the automatic mode, in which the camera will pick it up itself. But in order to understand what ISO is and what it affects, it's still better to take at least a few frames, raising and lowering ISO and comparing the results.

A high or maximum value allows you to take pictures in low light conditions, thus being an alternative to flash. This will be ideal for you in situations where flash photography is prohibited, such as at concerts or other official events.

Also, ISO will help you out in a situation where a wide open aperture and a slow shutter speed result in a too dark image. But experimenting with ISO, you will quickly notice that increasing its value also increases the amount of noise in the frame. This is an inevitable effect, but it can be smoothed out, for example, using graphic editors.

Shooting modes

The SLR camera has a wide range of shooting modes, which can be divided into manual and automatic. The latter roughly correspond to similar modes on an amateur camera: they are called "Sport", "Landscape", "Night portrait", etc.

When you select this mode, the camera automatically selects the settings necessary for the given conditions, and you no longer need to worry about anything. This is quite convenient, and photos taken in such modes may well be very successful. And yet, if you set the SLR camera to manual settings, then you are provided with creative scope, and a person who plans to take photography seriously needs to be familiar with them.

So what are manual shooting modes are at our disposal?

P (programmed)- a mode similar to AUTO, but leaving more room for independent action. Using it, you can independently change the ISO and white balance, as well as adjust the shutter speed and aperture automatically set by the camera. All other settings, as in automatic mode, the caring camera will select itself.
Av(aperture)- a mode that allows you to set the aperture value at your discretion, without worrying about the shutter speed - the camera will select it on its own. Great for portraits and other experiments with depth of field.
S(shutter)- in contrast to the previous option, this is the shutter priority mode. It is easy to guess that in this case the camera will automatically set the aperture. Suitable for shooting moving and dynamic subjects.
M (manual)- a truly manual mode, in which the camera no longer interferes at all. Here all the settings: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are up to you. Using this mode, you can give yourself complete creative freedom and try out a wide variety of combinations in unusual shooting conditions. Of course, it is worth using this mode when you really understand the settings of your camera and approach the matter with knowledge.

In everyday, natural shooting the best and easiest way is to use Av mode. It is the most convenient for controlling the depth of field and allows you to fully surrender to the artistic process of creating the best composition.

Flash

Built-in flash – faithful assistant when shooting in low light conditions. But she, like other features of a SLR camera, needs to be used wisely. If handled incorrectly, there is a high probability of spoiling the frame by illuminating it. Here are some tips to help you avoid this:

Use manual flash output, the value of which can be reduced when receiving too bright frames.
Try switch the camera to automatic mode "Night shooting". Unlike AUTO, this mode “softens up” the flash action and diffuses the light slightly around the subject, rather than focusing only on it.
Experiment with light scattering(how to do it we wrote here). To do this, you can use a white cloth, paper, or any other material that will need to be fixed before the flash. But you should not use materials dyed in other colors for this purpose - they can give the skin the wrong tone and generally have a bad effect on the picture.
Use the modes of your camera discussed above - ISO, aperture and shutter speed. After trying different options, you will be able to find the one that will make your shots successful.

white balance

The matrix of the camera is more sensitive than the human eye and sensitively perceives color temperature. You must have seen pictures with strange lighting effects: faces in them may turn out to be blue, green, orange. This often happens when shooting indoors with incandescent lighting. Setting the white balance on your camera will help correct the situation.

Yes, you certainly may use automatic tuning (AWB), but then there is still a risk of error. The best way is to “tell” the camera what color is white, which can be done using manual mode (MWB). First you need to select the manual white balance setting in the menu of your camera.

After that, it is enough to take any white object, for example, a sheet of paper, take a picture of it, and fix the color as correct. The algorithm may differ depending on the model of your camera, but if you encounter difficulties, the instructions will help you out.

Choose a SLR camera to start

When choosing photography equipment to start with, a novice photographer should be aware of some important details that you should definitely pay attention to when choosing a SLR camera. It is clear that you should not start working on expensive equipment. And not only because of the high price, but primarily because, without knowing the basics, it will not only be difficult, but often impossible, to master the functions of a “fancy” camera. Inexpensive cameras have a lot of tips, automatic modes, which are simply necessary at the start.

You should especially understand the resolution of the matrix. These are exactly the pixels that are indicated in the main characteristics and on the camera body. But at the same time, remember that for beginners it is better to choose a “SLR” with crop matrices.

If you're serious about taking photographs, choose a technique with manual settings. In the future, this technique will give you good experience and the chance of great opportunities in this field of activity. And it is better to choose the camera itself from the list of the most recommended SLR models for beginners, which are produced by well-known world manufacturers. Don't hesitate to reach out to those who are familiar with photography for a long time and will help you in choosing the right camera to start with.

If the abundance of difficult terms did not scare you, and you are still full of enthusiasm, ready to work and improve, go ahead! A few simple tips will help you on your creative journey:

In order to learn how to professionally photograph with a DSLR, constant practice required. Try to take your camera with you wherever you go, and do not miss the opportunity to take a good picture. Develop your artistic mind! As a photographer, you need to be able to build the right composition mentally, cut off interesting shots from ordinary ones, be able to notice what another would not pay attention to.
Learn the modes of your camera, try various combinations. Do not be afraid to squat, take various positions in search of the best angle. So you will greatly increase your chances of getting the desired result!
Draw conclusions based on the finished material. Mark your mistakes - you can even have a special notebook for this - and try to avoid them in the future.
View the work of famous photographers. The more time you spend on this, the more ideas you will get and draw the right conclusions. On the early stages there is nothing shameful in imitating one of the professionals and copying their work. Over time, you will certainly develop your own style, but at first you should not neglect the experience of others.
Read relevant literature, watch video tutorials, attend courses, communicate with professional photographers. You need to be fluent in the technical side of the photography process, this will play into your hands. You will not notice how much more confident you will be in handling the camera.

The DSLR is your ticket to the world of professional photography. By working, experimenting, acquiring additional equipment - such as lenses and flashes - you can achieve the most amazing results. We hope that the information on how to learn how to use a SLR camera will be useful to you.

Make the most of your camera and let it become your reliable friend and assistant in the implementation of your ideas!

As soon as you get your first professional camera, it seems to you that now you can do everything, and ... you start taking pictures in auto mode, sincerely not understanding why the professionals look at you with a smirk.

The thing is that the automatic mode, or as it is also called the “green zone”, is one of the top things in the contempt rating of professional photographers (after the whale lens, of course). It is considered "the fate of dummies," a label that turns all photographs into bad taste, no matter how talented they are. And that's why knowledgeable people When buying a camera for themselves, they first of all scroll the mode wheel away from the “green zone”. Of course, you should not indulge the majority, and if you like shooting in automatic mode, shoot as long as it brings pleasure. But looking at it the other way around, there are quite a few downsides to auto mode where shooting in manual mode will give you more of both great shots and professional growth. Cons of the "green zone":

Lack of RAW in Canon cameras.
Often there is no way to correct the exposure.
You cannot control the depth of field.
In general, all levers, buttons and knobs become absolutely useless, the camera simply does not work out the money that you paid for it.

But if you are just getting into the art of photography, then starting with auto mode will be useful. And after you learn how to compose a frame, you can climb into the settings.

Manual camera setup: basic modes

P– program mode. This mode is almost automatic, since the camera selects the exposure pair (aperture and shutter speed) on its own. You will be able to adjust only less significant parameters, such as: ISO, jpeg settings, white balance, etc.
A or Av- Aperture priority. Here you can set the aperture value, and the camera itself selects the optimal shutter speed for it according to the data of the exposure meter built into it. This mode is the most commonly used by photographers as it allows full control over the depth of field.
S or TV– shutter priority mode. This is where you set what you think is the appropriate shutter speed, and the camera sets the aperture value. This mode is rather limited and is usually used when photographing various sporting events, when it is important for the photographer to catch interesting point, and the study of the background fades into the background.
M- fully manual mode of the camera. Usually it is used only by those who are well versed in photography. All required parameters are set manually, various restrictions are removed, and you can set absolutely any aperture and shutter speed at any ISO value. Also, the flash in manual mode can be used by the photographer at his discretion. Free use of the flash allows you to achieve various artistic effects in your pictures. In addition, in this mode, you can take deliberately overexposed or underexposed photographs, shoot with lenses that were not originally intended for this camera, etc. Using the M mode requires the user to have a thorough knowledge of the basics of photography.

Setting the manual mode in the camera: M mode for different types of shooting

1. Settings for portrait photography Manually setting up a DSLR to shoot a portrait is a science. It is important to consider the lighting and how the light falls on the face of your model, based on this, set the main values. For example, when shooting a portrait indoors with windows that create pleasant natural light, you need to open the aperture to the maximum (for a “whale” it is f3.5-f5.6, and for a fast lens it is f1.4-f2.8), then it can be determined with exposure. Exposure, depending on natural light and lens, will range from 1/30 to 1/100. And the ISO value is best left as low as 100 units so that the image does not lose its quality. Such settings rarely result in underexposed shots, but if you do get a dark shot, then just turn on the flash and everything will be fine. When shooting in overcast or cloudy weather, there is usually a problem with the exposure of the frame. If you get dark photos, but you didn’t plan it at all, then in this case, increasing the shutter speed to 1/8 - 1/15 will help you, it would also not hurt to increase the ISO (200 - 400 units).

Sunny weather at portrait photography also doesn't always work. You will have to compete for shots with minimal shadows! Moreover, by setting the aperture and shutter speed values only once, you will never be able to shoot from different angles and points. And therefore, throughout the entire photo shoot, you have to look at the resulting material every time. If you have a frame overexposure, then we advise you to reduce the ISO value, make the shutter speed a little shorter (about 1/800 - 1/1000). It is possible that you will have to slightly cover the diaphragm. If it is simply impossible to place the model in the shade, then use a flash - this way you can even out the light a little.
2. Dynamic scenes in manual mode. Photos that convey the dynamics of movement always look very impressive. Let's say you wanted to feel like a magician and use your camera to stop time and capture the first-class trick of a young and promising skater. To do this, you need to set the following parameters: shutter speed from 1/320, aperture from f4 to f 5.6. Light sensitivity: if there is enough lighting, then 100-200 units, if not - 400 units. If necessary, use a flash - it will add sharpness to the picture.
3. Photographing objects in manual mode in low light Shooting in manual mode is especially relevant at night. Walking around the city at night, fantastically beautiful fireworks, the romance of the starry sky, a concert of your favorite band - all this requires special camera settings.

Concerts: ISO 100, shutter speed 1/125, aperture f8.
Fireworks: ISO 200, shutter speed 1/30, aperture f10.
Starry sky: ISO 800 - 1600, shutter speed 1/15 - 1/30, minimum aperture.
Night city lights: ISO 800, shutter speed 1/10 - 1/15, aperture f2.

Flash setting in manual mode (M and TV)

TV/S (Shutter Priority) and M (Full Manual) modes are just perfect for convenient flash use, because in these modes you can set a fast shutter speed. In manual mode, the exposure depends on the shutter speed, aperture and ISO you set. You need to calculate the amount of light needed to illuminate the subject, and only then adjust the flash. Good brain training, right? manual mode will allow you to use a wider amount of flash output than the other modes.

It is worth noting that in any shooting mode, you may notice a blinking setting indicator in the viewfinder. This happens when the set parameters cannot "work" with the flash. The main reasons are the aperture that is inaccessible to your camera lens or the shutter speed is too fast and is not supported by your device or flash.

Shooting in manual mode: so which one to shoot?

Aperture-priority (AV) mode - in our opinion, great for everyday shooting. Choose the required aperture value (based on what kind of depth of field you want to get), and the camera will select the desired shutter speed itself.
Program mode (P) - of course, it allows you to change the shutter speed and aperture settings, but it does this only in pairs. When making the next frame, the values will be set automatically again, and it is possible that you will need to adjust them again.
Manual mode (M) - great, but very inconvenient because it requires a large number of any manipulations, and the probability is much greater.

Make sure the exposure matches the subject you are going to capture. If the subject is evenly lit, choose evaluative metering, and if there are objects contrasting with the general background, select spot or partial. Are there equal numbers of dark and bright objects? Choose center-weighted metering. There is no perfect "recipe" - experiment and learn from your own experience.

And one more piece of advice. Work in RAW! So you can increase the likelihood of "rescuing" good composition images that have technical problems. Good luck!

The vast majority of photographs are taken in auto white balance. This is a simple choice that is justified in most cases. But it is not 100% reliable.

In general, white balance systems tend to correct for natural color deviations in the highlight area, making images look too bland. For example, warm sunlight early mornings or evenings can become too cold.

When shooting outdoors, in many cases the best results are obtained using the day (Daylight) or Sunny light. They may give even better results than the Auto setting in shady or overcast conditions.

Most cameras also have white balance options for shadows or cloudy day (cloudy), which will add some warmth to your images.

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In some situations, this color shift may be excessive. However, it's worth experimenting with the camera to understand how each white balance setting works under different conditions.

For maximum control, use custom setting (Customs Manual) white balance and set the value manually.

You can find exactly how to do this in your camera manual, but the basic method is to photograph a white or neutral gray target (a piece of cardboard works well) in the same light as the subject and use that image to set the white balance. . When you photograph the white or gray cardboard again after manually setting the white balance, you should see it become neutral.

If you like, you can use your camera's white balance settings to "warm up" or "cool down" your photos. You can try experimenting with a non-neutral calibration target.

2. Sharpness

Most digital cameras allow you to adjust the level of sharpness that is applied to JPEG images when they are processed.

Some photographers suggest that maximum setting- the best option, as this will give the clearest images. Unfortunately, this doesn't always work. Highly contrasting edges, such as a clear horizon, may be cut off, becoming overly sharp and haloed.

Application the smallest value On the contrary, it may lead to small parts will look a little blurry. However, this usually looks better than overly pointed edges.

The best way to get nice results- apply sharpening carefully, gradually increasing from image to image until a perfect result is achieved. Or at least use installation in the middle range for most shots.

3. Auto focus

Many photographers let their cameras automatically set the focus point for faster and more convenient shooting. However, most cameras assume that the main target of the photo is the nearest object and that it is close to the center of the frame.

Although this allows you to get good results in most cases, if you shoot someone who is not in the center, and even with large quantity objects around, the camera may not focus correctly.

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The solution is to take control of AF point selection. So you can place the hotspot in the right place.

Your camera's manual will explain exactly which mode to select, but it's usually called either Single point AF, or Select AF.

After correct mode is set, use the camera's navigation controls to select the AF point that is on the target subject in the frame.

In some cases, you may find that there is no AF point in line with the desired subject. In such a situation, focus and recompose techniques should be used. To do this, simply select the center AF point (as it is usually the most sensitive) and move the camera so that it is on the subject. Then lightly press the shutter button to let the camera focus the lens. Now, with your finger on the shutter release, compose the shot. When the composition suits you, press the shutter button all the way down to take the picture.

4. Flash synchronization

By default, cameras are set to fire the flash at the start of the exposure. This does not pose a problem at fast shutter speeds or when the subject and/or camera is stationary. But with slow shutter speeds or in the case of moving objects, this can lead to strange results.

The problem is that the ghostly, blurry image of the subject is carried forward of the correctly exposed, sharpened version. This gives the impression that the object is moving in the opposite direction.

You can easily get out of this situation if you delve into the camera (or flash) menu and turn on the function second curtain flash sync (Rear Sync). It will cause the flash to fire at the end of the exposure. Then the movement of any subject will be recorded as a blur behind it, and not in front of it, which will make the image much more natural and can really emphasize the speed of movement.

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5. Long exposure noise reduction

The Noise Reduction function is to compare the main image with a "black frame" and "subtract" its noise to get the final photo. The "black frame" uses exactly the same exposure time as the main image, only the shutter does not open and the light does not reach the sensor. The idea is to record non-random noise caused by changes in pixel sensitivity and visible at slow shutter speeds.

As a result, when using the noise reduction function, it takes almost twice as long to record a picture, which is especially annoying with long exposures. Therefore, many photographers are tempted to disable this feature.

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However, the noise reduction results are worth the wait.

Of course, you can do the black frame extraction yourself with image editing software, but it's still a good idea to make at least a few "black frames" throughout the shoot, as the noise level tends to increase due to the sensor warming up during the shoot. intensive use.

The most reliable approach is to use the camera's built-in noise reduction system.

6. Long exposure

Many aspiring photographers overestimate their ability to hold the camera firmly, and therefore shoot well at relatively slow shutter speeds.

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The general rule for getting a sharp image when shooting handheld with a full-frame camera is to use a shutter speed of at least one second divided by the focal length of the lens. This means that if you are shooting with a 100mm lens, your shutter speed should be at least 1/100s.

This rule can be adapted to work with DX cameras by taking into account the crop factor (a factor in increasing the focal length). For example, a 100mm lens on SLR-type digital cameras (in other words, DSLRs) with an APS-C sensor (such as the Canon EOS 700D) has a crop factor of 1.6. Therefore, a sharp shot will require a shutter speed of at least 1/160 s.

Let me remind you that the shutters of modern cameras use standard shutter speed scale in fractions of a second: for short exposures, the numerator is omitted, and the exposure is described by the denominator: 1/100 → 100; 1/250 → 250 and so on.

Many photographic lenses and some cameras now have built-in image stabilization systems. This allows you to use slower shutter speeds when shooting handheld.

Plus some lenses provide exposure compensation up to 4eV, which allows you to further reduce the shutter speed - from 1/125 to 1/16.