This lesson will tell you about the new hot trend in photography. HDR! You'll learn how to capture, mix, and tonemap to expand the dynamic range and create a paint-only look.
Lesson for working in Photoshop CS3 and above.
Photo
Convert to HDR
Tone mapping / Tone mapping
Image fusion
Curves
Click on the screenshot to view the image in real size.
Step 0 (Introduction)
In this tutorial we will look at HDR photography. HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) was originally used in 3D and is now being used to its full potential in photography. Simply put, this is the process of shooting with different exposures and combining images into a single 32-bit image. So, I To clarify, the camera is only capable of capturing a limited amount of tones in a single photo.We usually sacrifice some elements of the photo while taking it.For example, we have a landscape with clouds and rocks.If we expose the clouds, the rocks will become dark.If we adjust the exposure cameras on the details of the rocks, then bright sky fades and details are lost. This is because the human eye can perceive a wider range of tones than what a camera can capture in a single photograph.
The solution to this is to take more than one photo and merge the photos.
Take a photo at normal exposure, then take a photo with less exposure to make it brighter, and then more exposure to capture shadow details.
Ultimately, you need to bring these images together to get a single image with wide range tones, which will now be able to show all the details in the highlights and shadows. This lesson will show you how to carry out this process without fuss.
First we need to get the original images (you can use a 32-bit 3D image and skip straight to step 6). We will shoot such an image with a camera. You need to take at least two shots with different exposure settings.
Adobe recommends limiting bracketing in increments of one exposure stop, which will help reduce the range.
Bracketing - Also called a "fork". Shooting by the camera of a series of frames (three or more) that differ in parameters with a specified interval of values (exposure, white balance, etc.).
You can also take 5 or more shots with shorter bracketing intervals. Personally, I get good result from three pictures. I like to increase and decrease the shutter speed by two stops. I know it's a bigger frame than most people are used to, but for the HDR type of image I like to create (cityscapes), it's very suitable. If you are a photography enthusiast, you can even reduce the bracketing to 3 stops.
(Note: For true HDR, you can't use one raw photo and change its exposure several times, as some people suggest. This effect is known as pseudo-HDR. Photoshop won't let you merge these images because they don't capture the right tones.)
Step 1. Let's start with three images. One with a normal exposure, a second with a lower exposure, and a third with a higher exposure. AT this case I use 2-stop bracketing because I mostly shoot flat surfaces. If you are shooting round and uneven surfaces, then it is better to lower the bracketing to get more smooth transition.
I set the bracketing on my camera to 2 steps. Then I set the shooting mode to the timer. After that I get three photos. I shoot in RAW mode to be able to get a wider dynamic range. You can also create HDR even if your camera doesn't support RAW.
Make sure you are shooting in Aperture Priority mode or in manual mode. You need to set the exposure time, but not the aperture. If you change the aperture, the depth of field will not be compatible with the settings and you will end up with a blurry image. Also, avoid moving objects in the photo, otherwise you will get a "ghost" effect.
Step 2 It's time to bring the photos together into a single 32-bit image.
Select file-
Automates -
MergetoHDR(File - Automation - Merge intoHDR).
It works in Photoshop CS2 and CS3 versions (CS2 doesn't have auto-align).
Select all images or a folder. I put each set of photos in a separate folder, so I choose the option Folder(Folder). Highlight your photos for reference. Check the box for AutoAlign(Auto Level) in Photoshop CS3. Click OK (Photoshop CS3 uses new technology auto leveling, which even allows you to create HDR without using a tripod!).
Step 3 Your images are now consolidated into a single photo. You can move individual photos by unchecking the boxes next to them in the left column. If you end up with a slightly blurry effect on one as a result of camera movement during a long delay, you can disable that photo.
Step 4 The flattened result is a highly customizable bitmap. You can completely change the tones by moving the white slider on the right. Just take it easy with it - the slightest movement of the slider gives absolutely excellent results.
Step 5 Click OK to flatten the photo into a 32-bit image. Now is a very good time to save the image.
Step 6 To work properly with photos, you need to convert them to 16-bit or 8-bit images. Once you've converted them, we'll start creating what I call photo interpretation. The reason I say this is because of the unlimited number of ways we can use to transform a photo. As long as we have a huge 32-bit image with a wide dynamic range, we can't use it for further processing. Always start with a 32-bit image, then convert it and save other variations (your own interpretations). Avoid overwriting 32-bit images, they are our lifesaver, we can come back to them many times.
Select Image - Mode - 16 bit (Image- mode-16 bit) (or 8 bits (8 bit)). Now let's play with interesting parameters. Now you have moved on to the process of the so-called tone mapping (tonal compression). This is the place for creativity.
(If you want to make a correction without conversion, select View - Preview Options 32 bit (view- 32 Bit Preview Options). You can also use several photoshop tools from the menu Image -
adjustment(Image - Correction). The most important of the presented parameters is the control parameter exposure (exposure)).
You will see a dialog box HDRconversion(Conversion/CorrectionHDR).
The default options are Exposure (exposure) and Gamma (Gamma)
(approx. degree of contrast). How can you better understand how they work? Set gamma first and then exposure as shown in the example. If you want the image to have more contrast, reduce the gamma value. Raise the gamma value to decrease the contrast. Finally, adjust the exposure to get the desired brightness. If you want more transformations, read on, if not, click OK.
Step 7 Replace method (method) on the local adaptation (localadaptation). (Before you 4 available methods, but only two are subject to user influence).
With this method, you can correct curves (curves).
Work with them as you are used to working, but don't be afraid to trim them a bit. This is acceptable because you are working with a larger dynamic range than you are used to. Pull out the details of the image, but don't forget to overlay the shadows where they will be a bit blurry or ugly. Once you understand the curves, adjust the position of the sliders radius (radius)
and threshold(threshold), to avoid the appearance of halos in the photo. (A badly converted HDR image has some glow around it in places of contrast). The radius is responsible for masking the blur, while the threshold decides what gets blurred and what doesn't.
Click OK to convert.
Step 8 Before us is a combined image from HDR. The second image is a variation. In the second variation, I applied the exposure (exposure), curves (curves) and sharpness settings (sharpening) in 32 bit mode ( Highlight Compression Method). Photoshop is just great for creating very realistic HDR images.
Step 9 If you want to achieve more surreal results, use various plugins. My favorite plugin is Photomatix Pro from the HDRsoft site. You can use this tonemapping plugin for Photoshop, it works great.
Using the Photomatix tonemapping plugin will allow you to fine-tune the texture in your photos. Combine them in Photoshop as shown in this tutorial. Then select Filter -Photomatix, to apply tonemapping. Convert and save normally.
Step 10 This image shows how the photo looks after tonemapping in Photomatix pro.
Step 11 Here you can see the comparison between a single image converted with Photoshop HDR and a radical effect in Photomatix. Regardless of the result you got, I hope this tutorial has helped demystify HDR creation.
Step 12
Here is another HDR shot of mine. This is a night shot converted to grayscale.
Hope you enjoyed this tutorial!
I express my gratitude to Evgeny Kartashov for consultations on terminology.
Working on HDR explains in detail:
HDR image fusion
HDR image processing
Working with image tones.
Image 1. Final result of Photoshop HDR image.
In picture 1 you see the end result of all the work we have done.
To see the full-size version, read the article at the bottom of the page.
Combining photos into HDR images
The process of creating an HDR image in Photoshop is quite simple:
Click Merge to HDR… on the menu ( File > Automate > Merge to HDR…)
Click on the Browse button and select the images with which we will work (at least two images). The photos themselves can be, for example, either in JPEG or RAW format.
Click OK and Photoshop will merge the selected photos automatically. This operation may take some time. If you decide to combine high resolution photos, such as raw photos. (In my limited experience, this can take ½-3 hours to Intel Core 2 Duo 1.8GHz combining 14-bit 12 megapixel raw photos.)
As soon as the merging is completed, you will immediately see a preview window, as in Figure 2. On the left side in front of you are your original photos, in the center you will see an HDR photo, right side a histogram is placed. The red ticks in the histogram represent EV steps. A normal digital camera is capable of capturing 6-8 EVS of dynamic range. My HDR photo covers a dynamic range of almost 10EVs (Figure 2). So the dynamic range of more than one frame can capture. In my example, an HDR image is created from 9 frames at 1EV intervals. Some may think that 9 Impact is too funny. It is true that a dynamic range of 10EVs can be captured even with just two frames and the result will be of poor quality. I don't know if programs merge HDR algorithms, but presumably they take the best parts of the photo and/or some kind of average difference between pixels in different shots, and so the noise is effectively reduced if there are at least a few exposures. Thus, several photos with short exposure intervals are better than several photos with long exposure intervals (at least that noise problem disappears). My example is a photo without noise, even in the darkest areas.
(You might be surprised that the slider is below the histogram. We only need it to see the effect on the HDR image. All HDR images remain the same, even when using the slider.)
Saving an HDR image
After pressing OK in the HDR utility, our image will open normally in Photoshop. This is the first thing we must save. Our HDR photo should be saved in PSD or OpenEXR format as an example. Personally, the author uses the OpenEXR format because sometimes you have to work in third-party programs (for example, Photomatix) that support HDR images.
Image 2. Combining photos into an HDR image.
Original HDR image in Photoshop
In Figure 3, you can see what the original HDR image looks like in Photoshop. Consider this image and see what we still lack. There are a few issues: yellow tint, perspective distortion, some barrel distortion, and distracting elements on the left side. My goal is to fix all these little things and create a high-contrast and symmetrical photo, as well as make the sky completely black.
Image 3. Original unprocessed HDR image in Photoshop
Basic cleaning
First, let's take a couple of steps to clean up and fix some issues. I adjusted the exposure slider (at the bottom of the HDR image) to about 4 EV. To see problem areas in the sky. My goal is to fully reach the result when our sky is completely black. If you look at the image on the left (Figure 4), you will see some blurry spots in the image and some dots. I use the Clone Stamp tool and other clean background copying techniques to get rid of them (see picture on the left). After cleaning, some flaws disappeared from our sky, and imaginary reflections and glare, but the sky is still not black, we will deal with this later in the process of working with tones.
Image 4. Basic cleanup in Photoshop.
Perspective Correction
Our next step is to correct the perspective. First of all, turn on the grid ( View > Show > Grid). Then use the perspective tool ( Edit > Transform > Perspective) to eliminate perspective distortion. After the correction, I unfortunately notice that we still have barrel distortion. It is somewhat more difficult to eliminate the barrel of distortion, but nevertheless it is also doable, it is enough to use the Warp tool ( Edit > Transform > Warp).
Image 5. Perspective adjusted.
Removing unnecessary elements and creating symmetry
There are some elements in our photo that distract our attention, here they are in the lower left corner (image 5). Next, I will use the tool Clone Stamp and other methods to clear the corner of them. After I finished. We see that the photograph is cleaner, and the effect of symmetry is stronger (Fig. 6).
Image 6. Small things and symmetry.
Removing yellow and red highlights
Now is the time to eliminate yellow/red highlights from HDR photos. We do this by applying Hue / Saturation in the Hue and Color settings of the image. I slightly reduced the saturation of red and yellow colors (Fig. 7).
Image 7. The yellow and red tones have been removed with the Hue / Saturation tool.
More Light and Less Light
Our photo has some very dark areas (top of the dome and stairs) and some very bright areas (bright streaks). I can immediately say that the work on the correction of tones, on this stage, we will only worsen the picture. For example, in the process of adjusting the tone, working with a curve to darken the sky, we would spoil the domes, and the stairs. In the same way, when they began to lighten the church, we would spoil the lights. The solution to this problem is to work with the brightness of individual areas, which we can do manually:
More light for the dome and stairs
change the exposure (+1.5) adjust the layer to make the domes and stairs bright enough
fill the layer mask with black (to give effect to the whole image)
Less light, softer fields
Make exposure (Exposure) (-3) adjusting the layer so that the lights are softer
Fill the mask with black (to give effect to the whole image)
Go over a little bit with the brush and white and create a mask, doing this to lighten the image (dome and stairs)
In image 8 you can see what the image looks like after adjusting the exposure. Domes and staircases have become lighter, and the lights are softer. Agree that our HDR photography has become more beautiful. You can still make exposure (exposure) +1.5 in dark areas without fear that noise will appear. (There is another method of working with tones, in which initially we work completely in manual mode without affecting exposure settings, etc. However, in our example, we limited ourselves to minimal manual work.)
Image 8. The dome and stairs have become lighter, and the lanterns are clearer and darker.
Working with tones
The image is now ready for toning. The author had to do many tone adjustments in Photoshop in order to achieve best result. The reason for this is that when working on HDR photos, you can perform color correction without losing information (due to the high dynamic range). I recommend doing all color corrections before working with tones, and saving images every time before starting to work on tones.
In Photoshop, working with tones starts by converting the image to 8-bit or 16-bit:
Click on the menu: Image > Mode > 16 Bits/Channel. Then open Photoshop's HDR Conversion Tool ( HDR Conversion Tool).
There are four different methods working with tones in Photoshop. I choose the adaptive patch method as it is the only method that allows me to manually adjust the tone curves (click on the little arrow and adjust the tone curve).
In picture 9, you can see the HDR picture after working by adapting individual sections.
Image 9. adaptation of individual sections.
Site Adaptation and Tone Curve
Take a look at photo 10. On the left you see the default tone curve that belongs to image 9, and on the right you see the adjusted tone curve, the result of which you can see in image 11.
Want to know how to change the tone curve?
Well let's take a look at the histogram in front of us. The steep peaks on the left are sky pixels, the peaks in the middle are church pixels. I want to achieve two things: black sky and a good and contrasting church. The curve on the right picture does just that. All pixels on the left side of the left panel are completely black. By moving the slider from right to left, we make dark pixels light. The same adjustments can be made for a steep curve that equals high contrast.
Image 10. Left: initial position of the curve. Right: The tones are adjusted so that the contrast is clear.
In Figure 11, you can see the image after processing, but it is no longer an HDR image. This is only a 16-bit picture.
Image 11. 16-bit image after conversion in Photoshop
sharpness
Lastly, we work with sharpness. Let's convert the image to a smart object and apply the Smart Sharpen filter to it. In the picture you see 12 final processed photos.
Image 12. finalized photo
This article is a translation of Mons
Original text: www.secondpicture.com/tutorials/photography/photoshop_hdr.html
Photoshop lessons
Everyone has probably seen HDR photos on the Internet: sharp contours, fabulously saturated colors ... In fact, you need a modern professional camera to achieve the HDR effect. A photograph is created with different shutter speeds, i.e. the camera takes pictures several times - in light and dark versions, then either in hardware or software (Photomatix, or a plugin for Photoshop, again from Photomatix), the ranges are combined to obtain a rich image.
This tutorial will show you how to create a semblance of an HDR effect for a regular photo using basic Photoshop tools.
First, select an image. When choosing an image you are going to work with, make sure that the photo has the potential to create HDR effect. Photographs of buildings, landscape and other inanimate objects are more suitable for this. But you can experiment!
Open the selected photo in photoshop and immediately make a copy of the original layer (Ctrl + J).
Step 1
1a. Choose Image> Adjustment> Shadow / Highlight (Image> Settings> Shadows / Light).
1b. Set the values in the window:
Shadow Amount: 50%
Tonal Width: 45%
Radius: 44px
Highlight Amount: 65%
Tonal Width: 65%
Radius: 46px
Your photo should now look like this:
Step 2
2a. Select "Layers" from the menu or right-click on the layer in the layers palette and select "Duplicate Layer". Let's call this layer Color Dodge.
2b. Right click on this newly created layer (in the layers palette) and select "Blending Options" (Blending Options). Set the layer blending mode to "Color Dodge" (Lightening the basics). This will brighten the colors of the photo and lighten the light areas to white. Don't worry, we'll fix the image later.
The photo should now look like this:
Step 3
At this point, we will basically repeat step 2, but with a different result.
3a. Right click on the base layer you started with, but now the duplicate layer is called "Linear Burner". Right click on this new layer and select "Blending Options", set the blending mode to Linear Burn (Linear Dimmer). Don't worry when you see another photo result, and we'll adjust that later.
Step 4
This is a very easy step.
4a. Right click on the "Linear Burner" layer we made in the previous step and duplicate it. Name the layer "Overlay". Right click on this layer and change the blending mode to "Overlay".
By manipulating the layers and blend modes, we get this image:
Step 5
It's time to adjust the layers to get the final blend of layers.
5a. Now like this: in the layers palette at the top there is an option "Opacity" (Opacity). Let's change the transparency values of the layers and thus blend them. I used the following values for the layers:
Base Layer (the base layer we started working with): 100%
Color Dodge (Brightening the base): 100%
Linear Burn (Linear dimmer): 10%
Overlay: 100%
You can change the values a bit: 45% for the "Overlay" layer and 55% - 60% for the "Linear Burner". At this stage, select the values depending on the photo.
Step 6
Artifacting that has occurred (i.e. distortion of image data, which leads to a general deterioration in quality: blockiness (decay into squares)) can be eliminated with the "Neat Image" filter or similar, or slightly blurred with the basic one.
Hi all!
Photoshop in the Creative Cloud family uses Adobe Camera RAW as a built-in filter. It is constantly being improved and acquires more and more new and interesting opportunities. So in version 9.1 of this application, interesting features appeared for creationHDR images and stitching panoramas.
A very interesting direction in photography is the creation of HDR images. The abbreviation HDR comes from High Dynamic Range and means "high dynamic range" in English.
In the material about the main stages of RAW conversion, I tried to tell in detail about the tonal range of the scene being shot and the dynamic range of the photosensitive element of the camera.
In short, the point is that when shooting a real high-contrast scene, our camera is not able to capture the entire wide tonal range.
In this case, an unpleasant moment arises - the dark parts of the photo, the tonality of which did not fit into the dynamic range of the camera, will turn black, and the light parts, which are lighter than the camera can fix, will be lightened to a bright white color. All detail in these areas disappears.
In such cases, you can compromise and take a picture with correctly exposed shadows or highlights, depending on what is more important, or you can use the capabilities of specialized programs or Photoshop, which allow you to create images with a high dynamic range - HDR images.
There are three techniques known to me that expand the tonal range of an image.
Mixing frames shot with different exposures in Photoshop, one shot exposed in bright areas, and the second in dark areas. After that, both frames in the same document are opened in Photoshop on different layers, a layer mask is applied to one of them and on it, for example, for an image with detailed shadows, normally displayed light areas from another image are shown.
tone compression. The point is that monitors, and even more so photographic paper, have an even smaller breadth of the tonal range than cameras. To convert pictures to a format that can be displayed on the specified media, i.e. into an 8-bit or 16-bit image, and this technique exists.
Well, the actual creation of HDR itself - images with a dynamic range greater than in conventional 8/16-bit images. The boundary at which HDR starts is 13.3 exposure stops (brightness range 1:10,000)
What is needed to create HDR images?
We need to take several frames in which the necessary real scene will be captured, but in each frame its own part of the tonal range will be fixed, that is, individual pictures will be exposed under various areas by brightness.
In modern cameras, there is a shooting function with automatic exposure bracketing. In this case, taking into account the special settings of the camera, at least three frames are taken - the main one, this is a frame with a normal exposure, and the rest are automatically fixed with an exposure of a certain number of steps in "plus" or "minus", for example +/- 1 EV.
To demonstrate processes in this material I borrowed photographs of my very good friend, Photographer with a capital letter, professional landscape painter - Oksana Ermikhina. Oksana often uses the HDR method in her work, you can easily find her excellent work on the Internet. The only thing is that she uses a specialized program Photomatix, and we will look at the principle using the example of the Camera RAW application in Photoshop.
So, we need to combine three images with different exposures into a single whole.
It is best to use the HDR method of creating images on RAW files, as they contain the maximum information recorded by the photosensitive element of your camera. Open them in Camera RAW.
After that, press the key combination " Ctrl + A"Or left-click on the icon with lines in the upper right part of the "Filmstrip" window and select the "Select All" line in the menu that appears.
The process of merging images and generating a preview preview is started.
Upon completion of this operation, a preview window for the combined images appears.
The settings are minimized, but the main tasks here can be controlled. The Deskew Image option allows you to eliminate possible movement in the frame. If you turn it off, then with the “Remove ghosting” function turned on, the program will show which parts of the image were shifted during the shooting process.
By enabling the Align Image command, this module eliminates mismatched elements in the image using a special algorithm. It does not always cope with the task and then retouching is required, but this is mainly due to the movement of large objects in the frame.
The Auto Tone option helps you automatically equalize the brightness and contrast of the resulting image.
Without using the "Autotone" function.
With its application.
You want it, turn it on, you want it, don't. That in the first case, that in the second you will still be able to make a correction in the future.
Click the "Combine" button. The program asks where to save the linked file. Saving takes place in the DNG (Digital Negative Specification) format, an open format for RAW image files used in digital photography.
In the process of assembly and saving in the application, the final HDR image is formed.
After working with the adjustments on the “Basic” tab, we get the following picture.
Let's see - this is how we had a normally exposed photo at the exit from the camera.
And this is what we got as a result of assembling an HDR image by combining three frames taken with exposure bracketing.
In principle, you can say that you can achieve such results simply by resorting to the Highlights and Shadows adjustments in Camera RAW. In principle, YES, but this is if the tonal breadth of the scene being shot is not so large, that is, the difference between light and dark areas of the image can be fit into the dynamic range of the image displayed on the monitor using a converter. But even in this case, the creation of HDR takes place, since when raising the brightness in the shadows using an ordinary conversion, it will cause sharp increase noise, and the HDR creation method frees you from them.
Due to ethical reasons, I, unfortunately, cannot provide you with the RAW files of the author, but I think you can easily check the effectiveness of this method on your own works.
CreationHDR it's very simple and effective!
Happy creative success!
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Why is photographing a room with a pleasant view from the window always fraught with either harsh overexposure of bright areas, or the effect of a cellar immersed in darkness? Why are the buildings so well drawn in the photo, while the sky against them takes the form of a colorless spot? All this is an unfortunate manifestation of the limited capabilities of the matrix.
Opportunities that allow you to recreate the image with good elaboration in the most and least illuminated areas, as it is within the power of human vision. For comparison: our eye is able to catch brightness differences of 12-14 steps (or 12-14 stops - units in which the dynamic range is measured, that is, roughly speaking, the difference between the darkest and brightest point of the image); black and white film - about 10; color negative film - 7; and matrices of digital cameras - up to 8 stops for the most expensive models and 4-6 for most cameras. But even such a minuscule as 4-6 stops is not a sentence for your creative possibilities. After all, it is not the camera that shoots - the photographer shoots. And in such cases, HDR photography technology (High Dynamic Range - English “extended dynamic range”) allows you to jump above your head in such cases.
Lesson result:
Of all the ways to edit HDR photos, we will now look at the main ones. The classic technique for creating HDR is to take several identical frames with different exposures using a tripod. Usually there are three such frames: normal - for transferring halftone sections, underexposed - with well-developed shadows, and overexposed - for transferring light areas. To get them, resort to the following maneuvers:
Exposure bracketing or bracketing - consists in setting a kind of "fork" relative to normal exposure, after which the camera takes not one, but 3 pictures at once - one with a "normal" exposure, and the rest, underexposed and overexposed - with an exposure shift by a given size.
Exposure compensation: the meaning is the same, only you set a different offset for each individual shot. The resulting images are then combined.
The disadvantage of the above methods is that they are applicable only in the case of absolute static objects. Of course - in some cases it is possible to take only one picture. For example, if we are dealing with photography of moving objects. Then an alternative for exposure fork can be the overlay of different exposure versions of one RAW file. Any RAW converter has an exposure compensation function. Naturally, the possibilities for expanding the dynamic range in this way are much narrower than with bracketing. But in order for the HDR photo not to lose its realism, it is enough to set the difference between under- and overexposed images by 2-3 stops.
So the way to create an HDR image using Photoshop.
With the two layered files converted at different exposure compensation settings, we continue to work in Photoshop. The halftone layer should be on the bottom. To perfectly fit the images to each other, drag the image from the source files to the final one while holding down the Shift key. One of the options for further processing is as follows:- The key combination is Ctrl+Alt+~ to select the light areas.
- Invert the mask (top menu Photoshop Select => Inverse).
- Create a new layer with this selection (top menu Photoshop Layer => New =>Layer via Copy).
- Turn off the visibility of the middle layer and adjust the transparency of the topmost layer (slider Opacity in the Layers window, F7) in order to get the desired final image.
However, processing of this kind is not always appropriate. An alternative algorithm - starting from the top layer, with a soft translucent brush, we remove areas with incorrect exposure, gradually reducing the Opacity value for it. Then we move on to the next layer, if there are several.
Unfortunately, not all cameras support RAW format. When, for example, a lone JPEG file remains on hand, you can simulate 2 exposures using Levels or Curves correction, but often, due to the truncated amount of information that is generally inherent in this format, it will only be possible to draw out problem areas slightly. The same can be done with TIFF - the quality of this, however, will not increase, but the loss of the latter will decrease slightly during processing.
The creation of HDR photos can be entrusted to a program such as Photomatix.
In this case, the process of generating HDR will be less time-consuming.
Open in Photomatix 3 images exposed with a difference of 2 steps, to do this, select the Generate tab from the top HDR menu. After Photomatix asks which images to use, the exposure settings for each photo will be checked. In this case, you should make sure that the program determined the values correctly and there is a checkmark next to the use standard response curve. If you select the Align LDR images before generating HDR image option, Photomatix will align the images when they are merged. Click OK. HDR is ready. True, at this stage the resulting image is unlikely to correspond to the traditional idea of HDR photography and the desired result. To give it a more acceptable look, go to the HDR menu and select the Tone Mapping item. Experimenting with adjustments as well various functions Photomatix, you can achieve the transmission of the most balanced and realistic images.
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