The right technology, according to which the installation of socket boxes is in most cases the same, with the exception of some nuances inherent in their installation in walls made of different materials. If we do not take into account the need for experience in conducting electrical work in general, do-it-yourself installation of socket boxes can be done by anyone with minimal drill skills.

Necessary tools and materials

When large-scale electrical wiring work is carried out, then all the necessary tools will most likely already be at hand, but if only the installation of socket boxes is on the agenda, then the following will be needed:

• Pencil and level - for marking the wall and aligning the socket block (if one needs to be installed).
• Drill with crowns for drilling socket boxes. If there are no crowns, then just a drill for concrete (or for wood, in that rare case when hidden wiring is mounted in wooden wall). A hammer drill or its mode on a drill may also come in handy.
• Spray gun (can be homemade) for watering the crown during drilling. Prevents the appearance of dust and prevents cracking of tiles if the socket box is mounted on a kitchen apron.
• Alabaster, plaster or cement mortar- to fix the socket in the wall.
• A trowel or spatula with which alabaster will be applied. Its size should allow you to lay the mixture inside the hole for the socket.
• Socket boxes desired design- are selected depending on the material of the wall.
• Dowels - are needed in rare cases, if the wall material is soft and it is problematic to install socket boxes without additional fasteners.

A detailed overview of the tools required for mounting socket boxes in this video:

The rest does not apply to the work itself, but a broom, cleaning rags and, possibly, a vacuum cleaner will still come in handy.

Varieties of socket boxes

Before you make the necessary purchases to start installation, it would be useful to understand what kind of socket boxes are and how to choose them correctly.

In total there are three main types - for installation in concrete or brick, drywall or wood. Each one is responsible certain rules security and provides proper ease of installation.

Installation in a concrete wall

It is most often necessary to install socket boxes in concrete or in a brick wall, so the method of such installation has been worked out to the smallest detail and that's it possible ways long tried:

Now it remains to wait until the solution completely hardens and on this the installation of a standard socket in concrete wall completed.

If for some reason it seems that the socket box will not hold inside the wall, then it can additionally be fixed with dowels, under which 4 holes are drilled with a slope of 45 ° (against) to the plane of the floor and wall.

Brick wall, sockets, plaster and tiles

The sequence of actions when installing socket boxes in an ordinary brick wall is somewhat different from work on pure concrete. All the techniques, tools and materials used here are the same, but there are some nuances, the implementation of which must be considered in advance.

The socket box must be installed flush with the outside of the wall. If wallpaper is glued to the concrete, then a layer of plaster will be laid on the brick wall. Of course, you can estimate in advance what the thickness of the plaster will be and move the socket box a little forward, but there will be an order of magnitude more trouble than with a simple installation. When sockets are planned in the bathroom or in the kitchen, where additional tiles will be laid, the calculations become even more complicated.

A long and complicated way to solve the problem lies in careful measurements after each stage of work - a place is marked, wiring is connected to it, plaster is applied, a hole is cut out in it, then the same is done with the tiles during its installation.

It will be much easier to make an initial recess in the wall where you can hide the wire (it is advisable to twist it tightly and fix it in the center). Then close the hole with a lid - you can even cut it out of thick cardboard, remember the "coordinates" of the future outlet and now you can putty. If the tile will be laid and symmetry must be maintained, then it will be useful to figure out in advance what pattern it will fit in this place.

This video shows how to install socket boxes on gypsum plaster:

When the plaster or tile adhesive hardens, the installation of the socket itself begins directly - one or for the socket block. According to the required coordinates, carefully, so as not to hook the wire, a hole is drilled (if it is a tile, then at the time of drilling it is necessary to continuously water the crown or drill). Next, the standard installation of the selected socket boxes is carried out - putty is applied, the box itself is recessed into it, the excess solution is cleaned off and after it hardens, everything is ready for the installation of the outlet.

Plasterboard wall installation

This modern material, in the work with which the appropriate tools and components are used. Here you will not need a puncher and mortar - the whole process is much faster, but for installation in drywall you need a special socket box - with additional paws that will press it against the drywall sheet.

Although a puncher will not come in handy here, you definitely need a drill - with a crown for drilling socket boxes or conventional drill. The drilling site is marked and a hole is cut out, and its diameter must match the dimensions of the socket. The wire is brought out and threaded into the socket.

If there are fears that the drywall is weak and in the future the socket may simply break out of it, then from the inside, plywood or other dense, non-crumbling material is glued to the place where the paws of the socket will abut.

For more information about installing socket boxes in drywall, see this video:

Hidden wiring in a wooden house

This is very expensive pleasure. Although a puncher is not needed here, the labor costs are many times greater, because according to the requirements of the PUE, the entire installed wire should not come into contact with the tree anywhere and under any circumstances.

wiring in steel corrugation, metal sockets

Ordinary types of socket boxes are not suitable here - PVC burns perfectly and in the event of a short circuit, the probability of a fire when using them is very high. There is no question here which sockets will be better or worse - you can only put iron ones, the wall thickness of which can keep the arc that has arisen from a short circuit inside the case.

For the same reason, the wires in such wiring must be laid in iron pipe and all its joints with the socket must be carefully sealed. The entire line is necessarily grounded, therefore, a mounting bolt for the ground wire is additionally welded to the ends of the pipes that converge in the socket.

Based on this, there is only one way to install a socket box without turning it into a time bomb - to fulfill all the requirements of the PUE:

• For the socket with a drill and a chisel, the necessary hole is drilled
• If you wish to do additional protection, the bottom of the hole is laid with asbestos.
• A wire and part of the pipe supplying it are inserted into the socket, which is connected to the body, which, in turn, is screwed to the wall with screws.

This seemingly simple sequence of actions must be carried out with all possible care, because it depends Fire safety Houses.

This video shows the installation of socket boxes in a log wall:

Nuances of choice

In general, when choosing a socket, it is necessary that the person who selects them knows where they will be used - if your own socket is purchased for the desired material, then the question of how to fix this device should not arise.

Another thing is their elementary check, it is especially good to check those that will be fixed in drywall, since there are moving parts. Even those of them that will be planted on the solution must be intact and without cracks. Separately, it is worth checking the bolts with which the base of the socket will be screwed to the body, and also trying on so that the socket is normally fixed inside. At all perfect option- purchase of sockets and socket boxes as a set.

Auxiliary, but an integral element of the electrical system are the sockets. They are used both in industrial and domestic facilities in order to accommodate concealed wiring. It is permissible to hide the wires and contacts of not only sockets, but also switches, motion sensors, dimmers, terminal blocks, regulators of various built-in devices (for example, ceiling infrared heater, warm floor). Proper installation is a guarantee of reliable fixation of the device, and since the box is made of plastic - a dielectric material, then additional insulation between it and the wall.

Preparatory measures imply not only the adoption of a number of pre-installation actions, but also the advance purchase of certain materials and tools. For work you will need:

• alabaster / gypsum;
• primer;
• putty knife;
• perforator / drill;
• drill / drill 8 mm thick;
• diamond, equal in diameter to 68-70 mm (provided that the socket is standard);
• special spatula or chisel + hammer;
• building level;
• marker / pencil;
• ruler / hard tape measure;
• indicator screwdriver;
• sandpaper;
• cable/conductor products;
• the actual electrical device (if a socket, then preferably with a ceramic base) and a box of the appropriate size.

Having acquired the right tools and materials, start preparatory work it is necessary from the marking of the zone where the device will be located. For this purpose, the middle of a future outlet, switch or other device is drawn on a concrete wall with a pencil or marker. If it is planned to install a block, then the center of the extreme fixture is initially marked on the surface. Through it, a line is subsequently drawn along the level, equal to the length of the entire device. Using a tape measure or ruler, marks are made on this line for the rest of the electrical products.

Drilling holes for sockets

It is best to use a puncher for this. With the help of it, it is necessary to drill a recess in the intended center by placing a drill. After the nozzle should be changed to a crown: it indicates the dimensions of the future hole. As soon as the marked contour appears, the drill is removed from the tooling by unscrewing the bolt. Next, a crown is put on the puncher again, on which it is necessary to make a mark to what depth it will penetrate, usually 5-6 cm. Having reached the required distance, the nozzle changes again. This time, a shovel is put on the puncher, excess concrete is knocked out with it. If it was not possible to achieve the desired depth, then a chisel and a hammer are used.

In situations where neither a puncher nor a drill is available, you can use a grinder. The work is carried out by creating cuts that have a different direction in the places of markings. After the pieces of material are knocked out with a chisel until the desired depth is obtained.

Wall Mounting Guide

Having drilled a hole and punched strobes to it - grooves for laying communications, then it is allowed to proceed to direct electrical installation. For this purpose, a socket should be placed in the recess and check how well it is fixed. It is considered correct: the plastic case is completely recessed into the wall, tightly fixed and not tilted at all. Then you need to bring the wires feeding the future device into the hole located in the background.

The next goal is to securely fix the box in the wall:

1. clean the base from dust;
2. treat the hole with a primer that will ensure durability;
3. dilute the plaster / putty mixture on a gypsum base (instead of building / medical gypsum it is allowed to use alabaster: it is diluted with water until a creamy homogeneous consistency is formed);
4. with a spatula, apply the composition inside the hole;
5. put the socket in the socket and press it into the solution (it should crawl out on concrete surface through slots).

Installation is important to produce extremely quickly, because the mixture used hardens in just 2-3 minutes. The product must be leveled so that the screws are horizontal to the floor, and the box is completely deepened into the base. Check the correctness of the level applied to the fixture diagonally. In the future, it cannot be moved: the gypsum / alabaster must harden to the end. Surplus, crawled out, are removed.

If there are gaps, chips, potholes in the concrete for the socket after work is completed, these areas must be primed and covered with plaster. From the moment the wall dries, it will need to be puttied and leveled with sandpaper. Final stage– finishing on request (wallpapering, painting, etc.).

Possible mistakes

Do-it-yourself installation is often fraught with backfire. The most common problem is falling out or poor fixation of the product in the wall. If this happens, you can deal with the problem in 2 ways:

• screw a self-tapping screw with a dowel into the base of the socket;
• applying glue gun, securely fasten the box in the nest.

Also common mistake is to interrupt the cable with a spacer from the socket / switch. A hazardous potential develops on the device case, which can lead to a short circuit when electricity is supplied. To avoid this, the entry of the wire into the socket should not interfere at all future design, especially on the side of the spreader legs.

1. It is allowed to install switches and socket boxes anywhere. The main thing is to observe one condition: water, gas, heating systems must be located at least 1 m from the selected mounting point. The exception is the bathroom and toilet room, it is generally impossible to install electrical devices due to danger.

2. When fixing into a concrete or brick wall, it is advisable to use gypsum / alabaster only with small holes. In situations where the nests are larger, it is wiser to use cement-sand mortar or construction adhesive.

3. It is better to leave some wire in the installation box. It will come in handy when it comes time to repair contacts.

4. If we are talking about the installation of 1-2 socket boxes, then buying a diamond crown will be a waste of money. It is more appropriate to change it for nozzles equipped with victorious teeth, or even use a grinder with a disk.

Articles

Installing outlets in a concrete wall is quite complicated, like everything related to electricity, because special care is needed here. Having decided to do this work, be sure to strictly follow technological process. Installing new sockets is an important issue, because after each repair or simply moving furniture, you change your home. For the convenience of using certain devices, they are transferred to more “accessible” places. If you want to do everything yourself, you need to know the theoretical minimum, which I will discuss in this article.

Getting Started preparatory stage, you must already have purchased an electrical appliance, as well as purchased the right materials, tools and brought to the proper form of the work site.

Usually, the location of sockets is not regulated in height, so electrical appliances can be installed wherever you want, observing only one condition: heating, gas and plumbing systems must be 1 meter away from your chosen installation point. The exception is the toilet and bathroom; under no circumstances should electrical sockets be installed in them.

Necessary tools and materials

For work you will definitely need:

1. Electrical outlet (better take a product with a ceramic base);
2. Appropriate sized installation box;
3. Cable and wiring products;
4. Alabaster.

As a snap, select:

• perforator;
• chisel;
• putty knife;
• indicator screwdriver.

Types of sockets

There are several main types of outlets. By type of installation there are: built-in for open and built-in for internal wiring. Embedded are used when the wires pass through the wall. This usually happens in apartments, as this is a guarantee of security. Overlays are more suitable for wooden houses where the wiring goes over the wall.

Sockets with protective shutters are good because the openings are protected. The curtains are retracted only if the fork enters. They can open up, with a certain pressure, in a circular motion, etc.

Push-pull sockets are suitable for multi-appliance use where the plug needs to be unplugged and replaced frequently.

The socket with a timer is more suitable for children and the elderly. On it, you can program the inclusion of a particular device. So, for example, you can do with a teapot.

Sockets with indicator. Using the indicator, you can determine whether there is current in the network.

Installation instructions

markup

First of all, we proceed to the markup - we mark the center of the future outlet with a tape measure and a pencil on the wall. When installing the block - apply all the centers.

Holes in a concrete wall

For further installation of socket boxes, make a hole in the concrete wall. To facilitate the work, use a perforator and prepare a special crown. With it you make holes with a depth of 50 to 60mm. Then you insert a crown for concrete into the puncher and use it to designate the future dimensions of the hole.

Make 12 holes along the resulting length. Drill them to the installation depth of the selected socket boxes (usually no more than 50 mm). Using a spatula, remove the remaining concrete.

Installation of electrical wiring

After you have made all the holes and punched strobes to them, you can proceed with the installation of electrical wiring. You must run the power wires to the sockets. The best option: connect your own electrical cable to each.

Installation of socket boxes

At this stage, carefully follow the things I have described, because durability, reliability, convenience and, of course, your safety depend on it.

Considering the number of sockets that you want to install, assemble the appropriate block. Let's take two as an example.

1. Connect two sockets together.
2. Make the plugs that are needed to enter the cable.
3. Remove unnecessary connecting elements interfering with installation.
4. Try on the socket by placing it in the already formed hole. After making sure that it does not stick out, does not stick out and is not tilted, you can proceed to the next step.

1. Clean the hole from dust.
2. Primed with a special primer that guarantees durability.
3. Dilute putty or plaster mixture plaster based. Then apply the mixture inside the holes. In such cases, the use of alabaster is also allowed.

Important! You need to work quickly, because gypsum hardens in a very short period of time.

1. "Push" the sockets with the wires in them into the solution.

wall decoration

Next, you need to prime, and then cover with plaster significant chips, dips and indentations. Especially carefully you need to coat the socket boxes themselves. After the wall dries, putty and process sandpaper areas so that everything looks even and beautiful.

After that, you can easily switch to finishing(paint, wallpaper, etc.).

A socket is not only an obligatory functional element of electrical wiring that serves to connect electrical household appliances, but also a significant interior detail.

Trouble-free operation of the outlet, as well as its neat appearance to a large extent depend on how well the installation is done, right? To do correct installation, it is necessary to take into account a number of nuances that are present in this work, one of which is correct installation socket boxes.

Have you ever installed a socket and are afraid to make mistakes? We will help you deal with all the features - the article discusses in detail the types of installation boxes and the subtleties of installing each of them.

Also, attention was paid to the installation of socket boxes in common types of bases - concrete, drywall, tiled wall. Material added visual photos and helpful videos.

Modern sockets, both in appearance and in the method of installation, differ significantly from those that were installed in the houses of the Soviet era.

If earlier they were simply embedded in the wall without the possibility of replacement, today installing them, and if necessary, is not particularly difficult.

And all this thanks to the socket, which, in fact, is a box that securely holds the socket in its bowels and at the same time ensures its fire safety.

Socket boxes come in different shapes and sizes, differ in materials of manufacture and installation method, so before you buy, you need to understand their types.

Image Gallery

Installation of a socket in a concrete base

If you have already decided where you will have outlets, you can proceed to installation work which consists of several steps.

Before installing the socket in concrete, markings are made, then a hole is made in the wall and a gypsum mortar is prepared.

Image Gallery

It is very possible that you already do not have enough sockets in the apartment and there is a desire to add a few more, especially if renovation is underway. How and with what to drill a niche for socket boxes? Do I need to buy an expensive crown or get by with perforator drills? You will learn more about this later in this article.

Crowns for socket boxes

For cutting holes or niches for socket boxes V brick wall, inexpensive crown - the best option. brick very soft material compared to concrete or titanium.
It is unlikely that you will need to install sockets in a titanium wall. It is unlikely that you have a titanium wall in your apartment. But, concrete - it is quite likely. To drill holes for sockets in concrete, you will need a very good hole saw and a good hammer drill, at least with an active anti-bite system. Otherwise, you are at great risk, having an inexpensive but powerful Chinese puncher, to dislocate your hand. This is possible if the crown bites into the concrete. And the power of the perforator is 950-1200 watts. will provide you with a visit to the traumatologist. A puncher of lesser power simply will not cope with the task.

You can, of course, buy a crown of thousands for 5-6 rubles. And a puncher, thirty thousand. Drill a couple of holes, break its teeth and curse the hour when you decided to make these purchases. But if you need to install just some 10-12 socket boxes, it’s easier and cheaper to use a regular perforator drill and a chisel for it. And there is no need to buy an expensive hammer drill, which we are amazed at in the videos on You Tube.

To begin with, we will examine for installation in concrete or brick. They don't have any significant differences. In principle, for a single socket or switch, you can purchase absolutely any socket. If you need to install several sockets in a row, then it is better to buy models that connect to an infinite number of sockets. On sale you can also find ready-made "double", "triple" and "quadruple" socket boxes. Their design is more rigid than those connected in a chain. It is easier to mount them in the wall due to their rigidity of maintaining the plane, but they also cost several times more. In general, the choice is yours. I will show on the example of cheap socket boxes.

Layout of socket boxes

So, you want to move a switch, a socket, or move a socket and increase their number.

First, of course, you should decide how many outlets or, as they say, “places” will be located in one place or another. Basic principle here is this: “There are never many outlets!”. Let me remind you that both power outlets (220 V) and low-current ones, that is, telephone, television and for the Internet, can be combined into one line. Low-voltage sockets are best located on the edge of the power ones. So it is more convenient and more correct to stretch the wire. The distance between the power and low-current wires should be at least some (just kidding). In general, these cables should not be laid side by side to avoid exposure to electromagnetic fields. In the best case, the antenna, telephone or Internet wire must be in a shielded sheath. And the closest distance between them will be two sockets, to which they approach from different sides. Then, guaranteed, your Internet will be free from troubles in the form of electromagnetic waves. I will add that 15 cm between the shielded low-current cable and the 220 V power cable is a sufficient distance for the normal operation of the TV and the Internet. Tested by experience. For those who do not have enough of my statements, they can refer to the specialized literature.
So, you have decided how many outlets you will have in this place on the wall. I don't recommend more than 5. You simply will not find a bar that combines six outlets. I was not lucky enough to meet such a person on this planet. But you might be lucky.

Next, you need to choose a place for the location of these same outlets. Here, the most correct thing would be not to adhere to some mythical rules and norms, but to do it in the way that is more convenient for you. To make it convenient to turn on the plug and pull it out if necessary. So as not to look for sockets under the table, bed or behind the closet. But even in the most prominent place, like a picture, it should not be installed either. I am sure that you are able to solve this problem on your own. The article is not about that.
Draw a strictly horizontal line on the level. Face your sockets against the wall, centering along the line, and circle them with a pencil. Step back and enjoy. There will be socket boxes first, and then the sockets themselves.

Hollowing out a niche for socket boxes

Load a 6-8 mm drill into the puncher. and drill, slightly going beyond the contour marks of the socket boxes, holes, 6 cm deep.

It is better to immediately drill wider than the mark by 5-8 mm. When gouging, the chisel will tend to the center, forming a cone-shaped niche. Getting the edges inside the niche will be difficult. Make the niche a little wider.

Everything that will be inside the contour must be hollowed out with a chisel, replacing it with a drill in a perforator. To facilitate gouging, drill additional holes in the center of the marked contour of the sockets, thereby weakening the concrete. The whole point of this action is to rarefy and weaken the bonds of concrete molecules, if only it consists of molecules. Here, than more holes, the easier and faster the process of choosing a breed will be. Feel like a miner!

If fittings come across, then cutting it with a grinder is not difficult. When you decide that you have worked hard enough, insert the sockets into the niche, check their location along the horizontal level and along the plane of the wall. They should be buried in the wall with a small margin for the plaster solution, on which they will be fixed.
A small digression. If you are going to plaster the wall, leveling it into a plane and a vertical level, then the plane of the socket boxes should be leveled according to the applied layer of plaster. And if the layer is supposed to be large, then you will have to gouge in depth less.
I prefer to gouge out a niche for the sockets even before applying the plaster. Don't want to spoil it already flat wall such devastating effects. Pieces of concrete come off unevenly and break out along with the plaster. It hurts my eyes and nerves unpleasantly.
I do so. First I carve, then I plaster. Then I “freeze” the socket boxes, leveling them along the plane of the plastered wall. If leveling with a plaster layer is not required, then I level it along the existing plane, as in this example.

Chasing walls for wiring

Now need shtroba for wire. Draw horizontal and vertical lines from the recess you created to where you want to connect the new wire. IN this case- this is the old outlet, which it was decided to get rid of. According to the rules, you should not make a strob diagonally. This makes it easier to remember the location of the wire hidden under a layer of putty or plaster. If you believe Pythagoras, then the diagonal is much shorter, and if you do not intend to subsequently drill a wall in this place, then do as your mind tells you. Just in case, strobes with wires can be photographed by adding distances from the corner and from the floor level to the photo.
Chasing concrete can also be drilled holes 10 mm deep. and the same diameter according to the marking of the strobe, that is, to apply perforation with a perforator. After that, with the same drill, pierce all the partitions between the holes, making a continuous strobe. It’s easier, of course, with a wall chaser, but you probably don’t have one.
Having chiseled under the wire, do not forget to drill holes in the strobe with a diameter of 6 mm. under the dowel, a clamp fixing the wire. After that, it is necessary to sweep out all the dust from the niche and the strobe and prime it. After the primer dries, you can start attaching the wire.

Fastening the wire for the socket boxes in the strobe

It is convenient to fasten the wire to the strobe using dowel clamps. In the places where the wire enters the socket, use a knife to get rid of the outer insulation that combines the wires into the cable so that the insulated wires enter the socket separately. So, subsequently, it will be easier to mount the sockets themselves, and in the present - to fix the sockets. For ease of installation of the sockets themselves, leave the wire with a margin, then you can cut it off. It will be worse if you do not have enough wire. At the entrance to the socket, make the strobe a little deeper so that the wire does not squeeze the socket out of the fresh solution. Each socket has places for the entry of wires. Make sure in advance that the strobe is suitable for this particular place. Of course, holes should be broken in the sockets for the wire to enter. They are visually easy to distinguish, it is impossible to make a mistake, unless you are crazy. But, in this case, you are unlikely to take up this matter. Crazy people don't install sockets, and this fills our hearts with compassion for them.

How to fix the sockets

Fix, or as they say, " freeze”to the place of her further and lifelong stay, it is possible with the help of any solution. The easiest way to do this is with gypsum plaster. I, in most cases, use the same one that I plaster the walls with. "Rotband" - that's what it's called. Do not use building plaster (alabaster). It will grab faster than you set the desired position. Prepare a solution. The more gaps you need to fill between the edges of the socket box, the thicker and harder the solution is needed. One socket box is easier to fix than several in the assembly. It is easier to align it with the plane of the wall and with a horizontal level. Before final installation, check whether the socket boxes easily fit into the niche and whether the wire interferes with their correct position. If necessary, you can use a grinder or metal scissors to slightly enlarge the holes for the wires to enter.

Thoroughly coat the inner walls of the niche with mortar and fill the niche with plaster by 2/3. After that, press your sockets into the solution, squeezing the excess out. As soon as you achieve a clear position, align the mortar with the plane of the wall and let it dry. In the meantime, you can clog the strobe with the wire with a solution.