Do-it-yourself copy-milling machine - we create reliable equipment! Do-it-yourself wood copying machine Pantograph for do-it-yourself router drawings

A pantograph is a tool with which you can draw a plan or map, drawing or drawing, etc., with great accuracy and on the desired scale (Fig. 1).

Such a homemade pantograph is of interest to specialists in many professions - architects, artists, engineers, inventors, innovators.

The pantograph uses the principle of a parallelogram mechanism, which makes it possible, with one rigidly fixed end, to two points of the mechanism to perform exactly the same movements. Depending on the size of the selected shoulder, the image scale can be different and change in the desired direction. The scale is fixed, it is set according to the marks with the corresponding digital marking.

How to make a pantograph - do-it-yourself homemade pantograph

Pantograph enough High Quality anyone can do it with their own hands, subject to the exact dimensions of all parts (Fig. 2).

The design of a home-made pantograph, which we want to bring to your attention, consists of four ruler levers (three long and one short), in which holes are drilled in a certain order to fix the axes. Brass bushings are inserted into the holes of the rulers.

The axes of the pantograph mechanism of various designs, the two central axes are a pin with a cap. Axes for fastening the stylus (copier) and the follower rod are made like a device for clamping the stylus in the leg of a compass. It is desirable to use a plastic tip as a follower rod. Such a tip does not spoil the original and provides good sliding softness. One axis (extreme) with a heel, on which the pantograph mechanism rests, and, finally, an axis that fixes the entire mechanism on the base boss.

All axes have an annular groove in the upper part, which serves to secure the wire pin-clamp.

The boss is metal. From below, three stings (gramophone needles) are embedded in the boss, making it easy to fix the base on the drawing board.

Rulers are best made of plastic, for example, from plexiglass (plexiglass), 5 mm thick. The most important operation is the marking and drilling of holes in the rulers, so it must be treated with special attention. To provide high precision and the alignment of the holes, it is enough to make markings on one ruler, put all the rulers in a bag and drill holes in all the rulers at one time using the marked ruler. Try to make the diameter of the holes so that the bushings fit tightly into them, with a slight interference.

The bushings are machined from brass according to the dimensions given in fig. 2. Axes - steel. The length of the axles is in direct proportion to the length of the sleeve. Bend wire studs-clamps from steel wire with a diameter of 1.2-1.5 mm.

The base boss can be made from a 39 mm thick aluminum block. In the lower part of the boss, punch three needles into the blind holes (possible from the gramophone), so that their tip protrudes 2-3 mm.

Specification of homemade pantograph parts

Letter designation details	the name of detail	Quantity	Dimensions in mm
			Length	Width	Thickness
BUT	Large ruler	3	406	20	5
B	Ruler small	1	220	20	5
AT	Base (boss)	1	60	40	30
G	bushing	12	8	-	Ø8
D	Axis fixing	1	-	-	-
E	Axle-support with a heel	1	-	-	-
AND	Axis of the copier (original)	2	-	-	-
Z	Axle middle	2	-	-	-
And	hairpin clip	6	-	-	1,2-1,5

When all the details are ready, assemble the mechanism. When assembling and fitting parts, try to achieve ease of movement of all links of the mechanism, for which their rubbing surfaces can be slightly lubricated.

The final operation of making a homemade pantograph with your own hands is marking the holes on the ruler, according to which it will be easy to choose the scale of enlargement (reduction) of the copy.

Be sure to check the conformity of the marking with the resulting dimensions empirically.

Milling is a type of mechanical processing of materials using a special cutting tool- cutters. The method allows to obtain a high quality of accuracy and the degree of roughness of the treated surface. In addition, it is distinguished by significant performance.

Surface treatment is carried out by up milling, when the rotation of the cutting tool is opposite to the direction of feed, and by climb milling, in which the direction of rotation of the cutter and feed are identical. Using milling cutters with cutting edges made of modern superhard materials, it is possible to replace the grinding operation.

Milling equipment is divided into universal and specialized. In the first case, these are machines general purpose to perform longitudinal and continuous milling, with and without tool mounted on the console. In the second - a mechanism for cutting threads, splines, making gears and keyways and milling on a copier.

In production, there is often a need to manufacture several pieces, a batch, or even a series of identical parts. For this, milling equipment equipped with a pantograph is used.

In the household, the functions of a milling machine are usually performed by a manual milling cutter. To perform the maximum list of works, the milling cutter is equipped with a whole set of devices. The main equipment is supplied with the equipment, additional equipment is purchased or manufactured independently. These are a variety of stops, clamps, templates. But you can go even further and make a copier for milling volumetric parts.

Milling and copying equipment: the principle of operation

The principle of operation of such a device is to clearly transmit the movements of the copy head through the holder profile to the cutting tool.

Buy a copier milling machine quite difficult, so craftsmen make it with their own hands from improvised materials. Everything happens by trial and error. Therefore, the craftsmen advise first to assemble the duplicarver, and only then to introduce it into mass production. As a rule, this stage is preceded by more than one serious fit and alteration.

Milling and copying equipment: areas of application

On milling copy machines, it is possible to process not only flat, but also volumetric parts. With their help, along with simple milling operations, you can engrave, repeat drawings, patterns and inscriptions. The design of the machine is quite simple, and any master can make it.

Copy-milling machines allow you to process not only wooden details, but also cast iron, steel and plastic blanks, as well as non-ferrous metal products. This is provided quality tool from high speed steel and hard alloys. The copy machine allows you to mill not only straight, but also curved surfaces. In this case, the details are completely identical.

Milling and copying equipment: design

The typical design of a copy-milling machine is quite simple. It consists of a working table and a system of rails with clips for fastening the router and copier.

Making a universal copy-milling machine at home is quite difficult, and there is no great need for this. For home conditions, equipment with a narrowly focused specialization is usually created.

Making a copy-milling machine: materials

To create a duplicarver at home with your own hands, you should draw an elementary sketch, which will become a guide to further action. In addition, you need to stock up on some materials. It:

1. Knee cemented polished shaft Ø 16 mm.
2. Linear bearings in the amount of 2 pcs.
3. Rail guides 900 mm long - 2 pcs. For ease of fastening, their length is taken as a multiple of 150.
4. Split linear bearings in the amount of 4 pcs. It is desirable to use bearings with a clamping screw to adjust the tightness of the fit on the guide.
5. profile pipe 30×60 with wall thickness up to 3 mm.
6. Metal plate 900 long and 100 mm wide.
7. End posts in the amount of 2 pcs.
8. Movable element in the form of a plate - 1 pc.
9. Rocker for attaching a copier and a router - 2 pcs. The length is chosen arbitrarily.
10. Movable couplings - 2 pcs.
11. Profile pipe 40×40 with wall thickness up to 3 mm.
12. Crown clutch for turning workpiece and template.

Making a copy milling machine: tool

After that, you need to prepare a tool that will definitely come in handy for assembling the machine structure. It:

• angle grinder;
• cutting and cleaning disc;
• welding machine;
• welding mask;
• petal disk or brush;
• self-tapping screws for mounting rail guides and movable elements;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver;
• measuring instruments: tape measure, caliper;
• puncher and scriber.

Making a copy milling machine: step by step instructions

After everything is ready, the direct assembly of the copy-milling machine begins.

Step #1

It is necessary to cut two pieces 950 mm long from a profile pipe 30 × 60 for fastening rail guides. A margin of 50 mm is needed to install the limit switches in order to prevent the linear bearings from jumping off.

Step #2

The profile pipe 40 × 40 must be cut into blanks for the base. Guided by the existing sketch, you need to cut off two pieces of 1350 mm and two pieces of 900 mm.

Step #3

From the same pipe it is necessary to cut small racks. Their linear size depends on the height of the subsequently processed parts.

Step #4

Now you need to remove rust from the pipes. To do this, you can use a petal disc or a brush.

Important! Before using the brush, pay attention to the maximum number of working revolutions on it and the grinder. The value of the speed on the brush must exceed the number of revolutions of the equipment.

Step #5

After that, we scald all the joints and clean the seams with a cleaning wheel 6 mm thick.

Step #6

Then it is necessary to achieve parallelism of rail guides. To do this, you need to make the connection of the rack and the base of the rail guide detachable. You need to take the puck internal size rack, weld a nut to it and screw in the bolt. The bolt at this stage is needed in order to install the nut with the washer in the cavity of the pipe-rack flush and in a strictly vertical position, and when welding it, do not damage the thread. You need to do this with all four racks.

Step #7

Racks welded to the base.

Step #8

Holes must be drilled at the base of the rail guide at the junction with the uprights: in the upper shelf for the bolt head, in the lower shelf for the thread.

Step #9

Install the rail guides on the base (pipe 30 × 60), having previously drilled holes, and fasten with metal screws.

Step #10

Mount bases with guide rails and tighten with bolts.

Step #11

Check the parallelism of the guides. If it is absent, it is necessary to make adjustment by placing foil of different thicknesses on the racks under the guide.

Step #12

On a metal plate, you need to mark and drill holes for mounting split linear bearings and end posts.

Step #13

After that, it is necessary to make a movable element by welding rocker arms 300 mm long for a probe and a milling cutter to a metal plate, then attach linear bearings to it.

Step #14

After that, the movable element must be put on a polished shaft, along the edges of which end posts should be installed.

Step #15

The entire structure must be installed on a metal plate 100 mm wide and fixed with self-tapping screws.

Step #16

Then split linear bearings must be installed on the metal plate from the bottom side.

Step #17

Thereafter hinged structure put on rail guides with split bearings and end switches are installed.

Step #18

At the end of the rocker arms, movable couplings are installed and a probe and a milling cutter are attached.

Step #19

In order for the workpiece and the part to rotate synchronously, it is necessary to connect them with couplings. An asterisk and a crown are suitable for control. The copy-milling machine is ready. The design achieved 5 degrees of freedom. Movement along the X axis is ensured by the movement of the structure along the rail guides, movement along the Y axis - by the movement of the movable element along the polished shaft, movement along the Z axis - by the movement of the rocker arms.

Additionally, due to the movable couplings, the probe and the milling cutter can move left and right along the axis of the rocker, and there is the possibility of synchronous movement of the template and the workpiece. This makes it possible to process parts of almost any shape.

Copy-milling machines for metal in mass and serial production

Copy-milling machines for metal are used in mass production. With their help, propellers for ships, turbines of jet engines, pump impellers, dies for forging and pressing production, blanks for mechanical and foundry production are made. In everyday life, metal copiers are practically not used.

Pantograph for milling cutter: design features

To scale copy processes, there is a special device called a pantograph. It facilitates the manufacturing of parts with curved surfaces, allows you to make ornaments and patterns of any complexity in a reduced form. The cost of such a device is quite high. But making a pantograph at home with your own hands is quite realistic.

Pantograph for milling cutter: principle of operation

The schematic diagram of the pantograph looks quite simple. It is a square divided in half. All connections are hinged, so all sides are movable, and the square easily turns into a rhombus when impacted. The zero point, located in one of the corners of the square, is fixed rigidly. Relatively, its design can be modified, turning into a rhombus. A cutting tool is installed in the middle of the square. A copier is fixed diagonally in the opposite corner of the square. The distance from the zero point to the cutter is a certain value A, and to the copier 2A. This gives a scale of 2:1. The linear size of the long and short sides of the pantograph should also differ from each other by 2 times.

Pantograph for milling cutter: materials

In order to make a pantograph with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

1. Square metallic profile 12×12
2. Bearing 180201.
3. Bushings for the outer race of the bearing.
4. Fingers on the internal size of the bearing and thread M12.
5. Nut M12.
6. Bolts М6×45
7. Nuts M6.
8. Bushing for fixing the copier.
9. Profile pipe 40×40
10. The loop plastic window.
11. Dye.
12. Masking tape.
13. Metal plate.
14. Screw for fixing the copier.

Pantograph for router: tool

In addition to the listed materials, you need a tool:

• Manual frezer.
• Angle grinder.
• Welding machine.
• Spanners.
• Measuring tool.

Pantograph for a milling cutter: step-by-step instructions for making your own hands

We proceed to the direct manufacture of the pantograph.

Stage number 1. cutting blanks

It is necessary to mark and cut a square profile according to the calculated dimensions. For convenience, you can use masking tape and a metal plate. Scotch tape will enable clear marking, and the plate will help to make a smooth and quality cut. The blanks for the platform for the milling cutter must be cut at a right angle, and on the sections of the profile for the connecting rods, make a bevel for maximum fit of the bearing sleeve.

Stage number 2. Drilling process holes

On all blanks, it is necessary to chamfer and drill holes Ø 6.2 mm for further connection into the structure.

Stage number 3. Welding a platform for a milling cutter

After that, you need to weld the platform under the milling cutter.

Stage number 4. Making connecting rods

On the board, it is necessary to make a semblance of a conductor and rigidly fix all the parts to be welded. To do this, a hole is drilled in the board, and the bearing in the sleeve is clamped with a bolt, the square profiles of the connecting rods are fastened with clamps. Beforehand, two washers must be inserted between them and fastened with bolts. After that, all joints of the structure are scalded and cleaned. Then you need to cut the bearing bush between the square profiles on each connecting rod. M6 bolts, washers and bearings must be removed. A mount for the router must be welded onto the frame, and an extension for scaling must be welded onto the short connecting rod at the point opposite to zero. The cranks can be painted to give an aesthetic look.

Stage number 5. Making a node for attaching a copier

Now you need to machine two bushings with an inner diameter similar to the size of the copier. On the side, drill a hole and cut a thread to install the screw that fixes the copier. After that, you need to cut off two pieces of a 12 × 12 square 20–30 mm long and weld them on the side between the bushings. The size between the squares should be 12 mm.

Stage number 6. Manufacture of the bearing lifting mechanism

It is necessary to make a bearing lifting unit. To do this, the zero point finger must be welded onto a piece of a 12 × 12 profile and fixed to a 40 × 40 profile pipe using a hinge from a metal-plastic window. The profile pipe will serve as a place for attaching the pantograph to the table with a clamp.

Stage number 7. Pantograph Assembly

The bearings must be installed in the bushings and securely fastened by tightening the square profiles of the connecting rods with M6 bolts. Using your fingers, you need to assemble the connecting rods in single structure. Fix the pantograph on the table with a clamp and install the router. The device is ready to work.

Cutting tool for milling work: copy cutters

Copy cutters are a tool on which, in addition to the cutting part, there is a bearing. Its size is equal to the diameter of the cutting part of the cutter. The bearing can be located both in the upper and lower part of the cutter. This is how the tool is classified. It is worth considering that the marking means the position of the bearing with the usual placement of the cutter - shank up.

They serve to fulfill copy work by template. When using a cutter with an upper bearing, the template is located on top of the part, if with a lower bearing position, then from below.

Work manual router involves the use of any cutters. It is safe. The only thing is that when using a cutting tool with a top bearing, you should pay attention to the overhang of the cutter so as not to damage the workbench.

Milling on a woodworking machine involves the use of cutters with only the lower position of the bearing. This is due to the fact that in a cutter with an upper bearing position, the open rotating cutting part is in the area of ​​the workpiece. Careless movement can result in serious injury. Such cutters are used on machines only in special cases with maximum compliance with safety regulations.

Copy-milling machines are unique equipment, with the help of which the most difficult work for the manufacture of identical parts. But for work at home, you can make simple analogues of such equipment and devices that will help in everyday life or a small business.

Quite often, it is required to increase (or reduce) several times any drawing, drawing or diagram. For example, in a magazine you liked the patterns for burning. But in the magazine they are usually given in a reduced form, so you have to increase them to the right sizes independently or manually by the “cell method”, or with the help of devices: an episcope, or a pantograph.

O self-manufacturing the bishop has already been told in the almanac. Now let's deal with the pantograph.
Pantograph (the name comes from two Greek words (pantos) - everything and grаho - I write) - a device in the form of a sliding articulated parallelogram for redrawing drawings, drawings, diagrams in a different (enlarged or reduced scale). The main advantages of this device are the simplicity of design and rather high
What is the "accuracy" of the copied image. Unfortunately, the pantograph has not yet found due recognition among amateur artists and other handy admirers of arts and crafts.

On sale now find pantographs industrial production very hard. In addition, the pins of such pantographs are relatively small, and they are made of metal, which does not make the device convenient enough. So God himself ordered to make a pantograph for himself with long wooden rulers.
As already mentioned, the pantograph has the form of a sliding parallelogram and consists of four wooden planks (rulers) fastened together with hinges so that the rulers can move and move apart like an accordion (Fig. 1). As can be seen from the figure, a needle (pole), a marker (spire) and a pencil are fixed at the ends of the pantograph bars. When working, the needle is fixed at some point on the table, the marker is drawn along a given contour, and the pencil draws a copy of this contour, but already on a given scale.

First of all, for the pantograph, it is necessary to make four rulers 630 mm long, 15 mm wide and 4 mm thick. It is better to cut such pineys from thin slats, but you can also cut them out of plywood. On all rulers, the working part is first marked, for which 15 mm are set aside from the ends of the pin. Thus, there will be a distance of 600 mm between the marks, which will be the working part of the ruler. The beginning of the working part of the ruler will be denoted by the letter H, and the end by the letter K. Of course, we choose the beginning and end of the working part arbitrarily.

Next, we will put on the working part of each ruler the centers of the holes that we will need when setting the pantograph to one or another magnification. Suppose that we need to increase the original by 1.25 for work; 1.5; 2; 3; four; 5; 6 and 7 times. And in order to obtain, for example, the center of the hole with a magnification factor of 1.25, it is necessary to divide the length of the working part by 1.25 and put the resulting size on the ruler, taking point H as the origin. That is, the center of the desired hole will be at a distance of 480 mm from the beginning of the working part. In the same way, from point H, we determine the distance of the centers of the holes to increase the original at 1.25; 2; 3 times and so on (Fig. 2). Having marked the position of the centers on the rulers, at each mark we write a number that will correspond to the degree of enlargement of the picture.

Using the resulting markings, we drill holes in the rulers for the bolts with which it is supposed to connect the rulers. Bolts with MZ or M4 threads are most suitable for these purposes, respectively, and holes for them are needed with a diameter of 3 or 4 mm. But we make the extreme holes at points H and K with a diameter of 5.6 mm, that is, according to the diameter of the cartridge cases from a small-caliber rifle, which we will use to attach a needle, a marker and a pencil in them. Next, with the help of gypsums, we hinge the rulers in pairs, aligning the end of one pin with the beginning of the other (Fig. 3, a), after which we flare the open ends of the sleeves. It remains to choose the magnification factor and connect the pairs of rulers by installing the bolts in the holes with the required index. Thus, the pantograph shown in Fig. 3, b, ready to enlarge the original by 4 times.

At point P (Fig. 3, b) there is a pantograph pole (needle), at point O (the place of the hinged connection of a pair of rulers) - a marker, at point P - a pencil. If the ends of the rulers were connected with the help of sleeves, it is very easy to attach a needle, marker and pencil to the pantograph. To install the needle, it is necessary to firmly insert a stick (wooden cork) into the corresponding sleeve, into the center of which a piece of a thick needle is then hammered with a blunt end. But it is possible to fix this fragment of a needle in a sleeve by pouring molten tin or lead into it.

A pointed stick is suitable as a marker, which is not difficult to fix in the desired sleeve. The end of the stick should protrude from the sleeve by about 1 cm. If a long bolt is used instead of the sleeve, it is oriented with the head up, secured with a nut, and the end is sharpened with a file. Installing a pencil in the sleeve is also not a problem.

Once again, we emphasize that in the manufacture of a pantograph, accurate marking of holes is necessary, as well as full compliance with the diameter of the hole in the ruler with the diameter of the bolt. Only then, with the help of a pantograph, can sufficient accuracy be achieved even when copying very complex drawings.

How do you work with a pantograph? First of all, the pole (needle) of the pantograph is attached to the table at some point. The drawing from which you want to make a copy is placed where the spire is located, and a blank sheet of paper is placed under the pencil. Next, we draw the spire along all the lines of the drawing, while the pencil automatically draws an enlarged drawing on paper. And if you need to depict the drawing in a reduced form, you will have to use a spire and a pencil in places, which is not at all difficult in the presence of sleeves.

Usually, when working with a pantograph, the drawing hand leads the spire along the lines of the pattern. In this case, on the ruler next to the pencil, you will have to strengthen the load (nut, lead plate) so that the pencil is pressed against the paper. But you can copy in another way. Namely, to lead not a spire, but a pencil, while following the correct course of the marker along the lines of the pattern. In this case, the load on the line, of course, is not needed. And some more practical advice.

If the original being copied from is too large and it is not possible to walk the spire along all its lines at once, simply move the needle to a new place and continue working.

When enlarging (or reducing) a drawing or drawing, straight lines and circles usually turn out to be of poor quality. Therefore, you will have to correct such a marriage with a ruler and a compass.

It is known that a fairly good accuracy of a copy is ensured when the original is enlarged by no more than 2–3 times. Therefore, if you need to enlarge the picture by 4 times, it is better to first enlarge the original by 2 times, and then enlarge the already obtained copy again by 2 times.
It is not forbidden to change the dimensions of the pantograph rulers by making them smaller, for example. In this case, the place for calculating the positions of the holes on the rulers remains the same, that is, the length of the working part of the ruler will have to be divided by the magnification factor.

N. Morozov, Do-It-Yourself Magazine No. 6-98. Articles

A copy-milling machine is used to create copies of products made of wood or other material. certain form. Such machines are used on large and small industrial enterprises, as well as at home to create various details. Next, we describe the principle of operation of such a machine and give recommendations on how to make it yourself.

1

Milling equipment with a copy machine is used for machining various planes. With the help of a high-quality machine, you can reproduce copies of three-dimensional forms, engrave, make patterns, drawings. Its main feature is the simplicity of design, while it can perform quite complicated list works.

Copy-milling machine

Such equipment has a simple principle of operation. A special copy probe is connected to the working plane. Then he mechanically creates contours from a template or part. On the working plane, a cutter is mounted under wood or metal, depending on the purpose of the machine, which repeats the movements of the copy probe. In addition to these parts, the standard machine is also equipped with a cutter clamp or milling unit, an electric motor and a guide system. Usually equipment for simple jobs on wood or plastic consists of three main elements:

• work surface with a supporting element and a frame;
• cutter or milling machine with a clamping mechanism;
• copier (pantograph) and copy probe.

Depending on the type of copy-milling machine, it can work in two or three dimensions. For creating simple template in two dimensions, the standard version with a clamping profile is sufficient, but for the production and drilling of three-dimensional holes, the machine must be equipped with a pneumatic clamping unit, a drill and a drill or other drilling unit. Depending on the configuration and capabilities, it can work not only with wood, but also with plastic, cast iron and other non-ferrous metals. To do this, the machine is equipped with powerful and durable milling cutters under various materials, and copying equipment is being improved for certain forms.

Do-it-yourself machines are often used in the household for drilling lock holes, making frames, or creating grooves in wood or metal parts.

2

Today there is a large number of copy-milling equipment various designs with certain features of work. Their cost is usually quite high, so many amateurs make such devices with their own hands. Homemade option, of course, will differ from industrial counterparts, however, under certain conditions, it will do its job perfectly.

Copy-milling machine made by yourself

The standard scheme of a homemade machine consists of a working surface, load-bearing structure and a milling head, which is equipped with an electric motor driven to enable the head to operate at two speeds. Thus, to do the installation yourself, you will need a set of certain equipment and tools, namely:

• main frame made of wood or metal;
• wood plywood or panel, bars, boards and slats;
• fasteners in the form of bolts, nuts, screws or nails;
• milling machine;
• a set of keys, saws or a hacksaw for working with details;
• guide system and metal pipes;
• electric motor with drive or manual drive;
• drills and drilling installation (for more complex options).

instead of wood or metal frame you can use a ready-made milling machine as a base, however, attaching a copy device to it is much more difficult than making an apparatus from scratch. In this case, you will have to almost completely redo the milling machine, and this will take more time and optional equipment.

3

The basis for making a machine with your own hands will be manual. Attach it to wooden support from thick plywood (at least 12 mm thick). Several holes are also made in the support for fasteners and a router holder. Additionally, a frame should be built and several bars should be made, which are installed along the edges of the support, they will hold the apparatus during operation.

Manufacturing of a milling plant

We use as a guide metal pipe medium diameter. We install a carriage with a milling cutter inserted into it on the pipe. We attach a bar to the carriage, which plays the role of a copy probe, after which it is necessary to fix the horizontal bar on which the main template is attached. A machine made according to this principle can be used to process and create copies from simple household products, for example, door handles, castles, furniture legs. The milling unit with a motor is inserted inside the carriage and connected to the power supply. A template is fixed on the support, a copy probe moves along it.

The router is powered by the mains, the carriage moves manually, so that the working head repeats the movements of the probe. To create more complex models, it is necessary to connect additional working heads and install a drive with a belt drive. It is now possible to connect homemade installation to software however, this will require a CNC and additional equipment and tools. Such homemade machine will cope with their household functions quite well.

4

The practice of using homemade copy-milling machines various types shows that the final part manufactured on such equipment has certain inconsistencies with the drawings and forms and some manufacturing defects in the form of chips and distortions. These flaws are due to the constant vibrations of the machine and the movement of the working head. Get rid of them in living conditions very hard.

DIY copy-milling machine

To avoid such shortcomings in the work homemade equipment, we recommend manufacturing highly specialized machines, not equipment universal type. That is, before starting work on the manufacture of the machine with your own hands, you need to decide for which specific parts it is planned to use it. So you can optimally select the weight and dimensions of the hand-assembled copy-milling machine. It is important to remember that the larger the size of the parts to be machined, the more powerful and heavier the working rig must be.

For large parts, additional holders and a more massive support are needed, this will allow you to dampen the vibrations that will occur during operation as much as possible. Also, it's better to use electric drive instead of manual and make sure that the guides have a sufficient margin of safety. Remember that the smoothness of movement of the cutting equipment in various planes depends on the type of work surface, and therefore the final result.

Do it for school

Pantograph

This simple drawing tool can be used to redraw plans, drawings, maps or decorative elements, increasing or decreasing their scale by 1.5, 2 and 3 times.

The device is a parallelogram formed by four planks - two long and two short from well-planed wood. hard rock(oak, beech or birch). The planks are connected to each other with screws and nuts. Pay attention to the screw (view B) - it unusual look. With its lower rounded head, it rests on the surface of the table, thus unloading node A, with which the pantograph is attached to the lid.

If the device is used to obtain a copy on an enlarged scale, a bypass pin is fixed in node B - it can be a blunt nail clamped into a collet pencil, and a regular pencil, felt-tip pen or ballpoint pen is fixed in node C. Outlining the lines of the original with a pin, we will get a copy of the specified magnification scale on paper. To obtain a copy in a reduced form, the bypass pin and the writing instrument are interchanged. To select the scale, holes are provided in the long and short bars and a numerical designation, a reduction or increase ratio is entered.

Clamping pins are easiest to make from a piece of rubber in the form of flat washers. The holes in the washers should be cut so that the collet pencil and writing instrument fit snugly into it.

A clamp is provided for attaching the device to the desktop. It must be made of a steel plate 1.5 mm thick. To prevent the clamp from scratching the table top, cut a 2 mm thick rubber gasket under it. A hole is provided on the upper plane of the clamp, where the axis of the pantograph is inserted. As you can see, there is no bearing here. Therefore, to reduce friction between parts, install washers.

A. SALNIKOV

In the figure, the numbers indicate: 1 - clamp, 2 - rubber gasket, 3 - table cover, 4 - long lpank, 5 - short bar and 6 - rubber clamps.