Beams of a large section are often not even enough for a finished floor, so more even ones are laid on top of the beams. lags for the floor smaller section, but with a more frequent step. Lags should be positioned perpendicular to the beams. Under the logs to align them horizontally, place plastic wedges, which are sold in a box of 20-40 pieces.

In cases of excessive deflection of the beams due to a large span or small section of the beam, to reinforce them, it is necessary to use channels fixed along the entire length of the beam with bolts. Or increase the cross section of the beam due to the boards screwed onto the screws to the sides of the beam.

Before installing floor beams, it is necessary to wrap the ends of the beams two layers of ruberoid, fixing the roofing material with nails. This will protect the beams from rotting in places where they rest on the foundation.

First, two extreme beams are set, aligning them horizontally and relative to each other. At the same time, the extreme beams should be separated from the walls at a distance of 3 to 5 cm. To level the beams, use tarred wood scraps.

Once the end beams are set and aligned, pull a strong thread between them, securing it with nails to the beams. And already along the stretched thread, align all the remaining beams.

After installing the beams, it is necessary insulate the ends of the beams use mineral wool for this.

Necessarily fix beams with a metal corner. Screw one side of the corner with self-tapping screws to the beam, and fix the other side to the anchor to the foundation.

After fixing the beams, screw on the screws cranial bars section 50x40 mm. The cranial bars are attached on both sides of the beam flush with the bottom edge of the beam. These bars will serve as a support for the subfloor, on which the insulation will be laid in the future.

If you get a large length of beams, then to strengthen them you will need installation of support posts from ceramic bricks. Columns must be arranged at an equal distance within 2-3 meters. A small reinforced foundation on a sand-gravel bed with a size of 400x400 mm will serve as the basis for the posts. They dig a hole 35-40 cm deep. Sand and gravel fall asleep and compact. Then formwork and a reinforcing cage are installed and it is poured with concrete 20-30 cm high. Given that the top of such a foundation should be 5-10 cm above the ground. Then ceramic bricks are laid on the foundation to the desired level, given that the top row of bricks should be laid perpendicular to the beams. Between the foundation and bricks and between bricks and beams, a layer of waterproofing (roofing material) is laid.

Usually they are made from unedged boards, from grade 3 edged boards, from plywood sheets. It is not allowed to use fragile materials for the subfloor (cement-bonded particle boards, gypsum-fiber boards, drywall). The thickness of boards or plywood sheets should not be less than 25 mm. All black floor boards are necessarily covered with an antiseptic. The entire bark is removed.

After the installation of the black floor on all its surfaces, including beams, vapor barrier is laid. Vapor barrier sheets should overlap each other by 10-15 cm.

Laid on top of the vapor barrier insulation. It can be any insulation, rolled, slabs or bulk. It all depends on your desire and budget.

As a cheap natural insulation for the floor, you can use sawdust, which must be dried well in the sun before laying.

Medium insulation thickness for floor 200 mm. Depending on the outside temperature, this thickness can be less or more. In the event that your beams do not allow you to lay a heater of the desired thickness over the beams, then lay logs on top of the beams, and lay a heater of the required thickness between the logs.

After laying the insulation, it must be closed vapor barrier. Vapor barrier will prevent moisture in any form from entering the insulation from the room.

The device of a wooden floor on logs

Best for flooring grooved board first class which is well dried and free from defects. It is enough to varnish or paint such a board, and it will serve as a finishing coating.

The table below shows the thickness of the board at a certain lag step.

Boards are fixed on the logs using self-tapping screws. This will avoid creaking of the flooring, as in the case of fixing boards with nails.

The direction of annual rings in the boards must be alternated so that when the board bends as a result of shrinkage, the boards would compensate for the bend.

The board must be tightly fitted to the previous board, and then fixed with self-tapping screws with an inclination towards the previous board. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the groove of the board at an angle so that the head of the screw does not interfere with the crest of the next board.

If an ordinary edged board of the first grade is used, then the caps of the self-tapping screws must be sunk into the board so that in the future the cap can be covered with putty on wood and varnished.

The distance from the wall to the boards should be 10-20 mm.

In the bathroom and toilet, for laying tiles on the floor, it is necessary to lay cement-bonded particle boards over the wooden floor, fixing them with self-tapping screws. As an alternative to DSP, moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheets can serve.

We hope that after reading this article, you will gain the necessary knowledge for installing a wooden floor on beams and be able to make DIY wooden floor.

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Draft floors on wooden beams are widely used architectural elements in building construction. Depending on the specific location and features of buildings, they perform various functions and differ in the technology of arrangement.

Draft floors are used for the following purposes.

The manufacturing technology of rough floors largely depends on their specific purpose.

Design features of subfloors

Features of the manufacture of draft floors take into account the methods of fastening beams or floor logs. Beams can be installed on different structures.

Table. Structures on which beams can be installed.

It must be borne in mind that the fastening of the draft floors on the cranial timber reduces the thickness of the insulation layer. If the width of the beams or lag is less than 15 cm, then it is undesirable to use this option. The fact is that the recommended minimum thickness of the insulation is more than 10 cm, with a decrease in this indicator, the effectiveness of insulation is significantly reduced.

Beams - supporting elements for the construction of a floor or ceiling, must withstand the maximum design loads, have a margin of safety. Depending on the purpose and operating conditions of the premises, the thickness of the beams and the distance between them are selected. As materials, bars with dimensions of 50 × 50 mm or more or boards with parameters from 50 × 150 mm can be used. On lumber with even surfaces, the subfloor can be attached from the bottom, side or top, on round beams - only from the bottom or top.

Table. What elements does a classic draft floor consist of.

Depending on the specific placement and purpose of the subfloors, the listed elements may be added or excluded. We will look at some of the most commonly used types of subfloors.

Draft floor in a log house on beams

Beams should be thoroughly soaked with an antiseptic, preferably at least twice. The ends can lie on a strip foundation or beam, between concrete and wooden structures, two layers of roofing felt waterproofing must be laid. The upper and lower planes of the beams were hewn with an axe, the side surfaces were sanded. The subfloor will be made from sheets of moisture-resistant OSB approximately 1 cm thick. Keep in mind that the final thickness of the slab should be selected taking into account the distance between the beams. The main selection criterion is that the sheets should not bend under their own weight. Cheaper materials can also be used: unedged sanded boards of the third grade, used lumber, pieces of plywood, etc.

Practical advice! If floor insulation is planned, it is recommended to keep the distance between the beams within 55 cm. The fact is that pressed or rolled wool has a standard width of 60 cm, due to this distance between the beams, the insulation will be pressed tightly against the side surfaces, and this greatly increases efficiency insulation. In addition, mineral wool does not have to be cut, which speeds up construction work and minimizes the amount of unproductive waste of expensive material.

Step 1. Set the beams in place at a given distance, check the position of the top surfaces - they should all lie on the same level. To check, it is better to use a rope. Stretch it between the two extreme beams and adjust the rest to this level. To fit, it is better to cut off excess height, if this is difficult to do, then you can use linings. Professional builders do not recommend laying wooden wedges, over time they will shrink. Much better to use plastic or metal. Level check the horizontal position of the beams.

Step 2 Remove the beam, unscrew from the square. In the future, the element must be installed in the same place, otherwise the linearity of the finished floor may be disturbed, unpleasant squeaks will appear when walking. Turn it over with the bottom plane up, put it in an empty place on the foundation.

Step 3 From OSB boards, cut strips 5–6 cm wide more than the width of the bottom of the beam. The length does not matter, if necessary, the strips can be joined.

Practical advice! In order to save material, in the lower part of the timber, non-solid strips can be screwed into squares. The distance between them is 30–50 cm. The subfloor does not carry any load, the mass of heaters is negligible, there is no need to make strong shelves to install the subfloor.

Bars are stuffed at the bottom across the beams - one of the possible options

Step 4 Using an electric drill or screwdriver, fasten the strips to the beam. Use self-tapping screws that are at least one third longer than the thickness of the OSB board. Otherwise, the fixation will be fragile. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use ordinary nails of the appropriate size.

Step 5 Do the same with all remaining beams. Unscrew them in turn, fix the OSB strips and install them in their original place.

Step 6 Cut the OSB boards to the width of the subfloor. If you have precisely maintained the distances between the beams, then you can immediately prepare all the elements. If for some reason the distances between the beams are not the same, then each strip will have to be measured separately.

Step 7 Lay the sheets on the shelves. There is no need to achieve a complete absence of gaps; the subfloor for insulation does not require exact observance of dimensions.

Practical advice! To make work easier, cut the sheets 1-2 cm narrower than the distance between the shelves. The fact is that the beam on the sides has bulges that narrow the clearance, due to a slight decrease in the width of the sheets, it is much easier to install them in place. Another plus of reducing the width is a compensating gap. OSB boards change their linear dimensions quite significantly during changes in relative humidity. If there are no compensating gaps, then the sheets may swell. For a subfloor, this is not critical, but swelling indicates a low qualification of builders.

Step 8 To reduce heat loss, you can blow out all the cracks with mounting foam.

On this, the manufacture of the subfloor is completed, you can begin laying the insulation. How to do it?

Step 1. Put a vapor barrier on the beams and the subfloor, do not pull it too hard, fasten it to the tree with a stapler. For vapor barrier, you can use expensive modern non-woven materials or ordinary cheap plastic film. There is no difference in efficiency, but the price may differ by an order of magnitude. Vapor barrier is a must, do not neglect it. The fact is that mineral wool reacts extremely negatively to an increase in humidity. With an increase in the index, the thermal conductivity increases exponentially, which sharply reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Another operational disadvantage is that the material dries for a long time. This means that wet wool will have a long contact with wooden structures. Such adverse conditions significantly reduce the life of lumber.

Important! Never store insulation outdoors. If you suspect high humidity, dry the material thoroughly, use only dry cotton wool.

Step 2 Lay the first layer of mineral wool 5 cm thick on the subfloor. Squeeze the edges tightly, do not allow cracks to form. Pressed mineral wool is slightly compressed and has elasticity, which allows it to occupy the most convenient place.

Step 3 Lay the second layer of insulation with offset seams. To do this, first lay the piece remaining from the last piece of pressed mineral wool. Using the same algorithm, insulate the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe subfloor. The thickness of the floor insulation for the northern regions of the country should be at least 15 cm, for the middle climatic zone 10 cm is enough.

Practical recommendation! It is not necessary to insulate the floor with one thin layer of mineral wool, a thickness of 5 cm has almost no heat-saving effect. Especially on the ground floor, where there is constant natural ventilation and heat is quickly removed from the premises.

Step 4 Cover the insulation with waterproofing. To do this, you can use any special materials. The waterproofing is fixed with a stapler, the width of the overlaps is at least 10 cm, the ends of the material are hermetically sealed with adhesive tape.

Step 5 On top of the waterproofing membrane on the logs, nail 20x30 slats or the remaining strips of OSB. Reiki will provide ventilation of the finished floor and will not allow mold to appear under it.

The underground must necessarily have ventilation openings that provide multiple air exchange. Do not forget to close the openings with metal bars that protect the underground from the penetration of rodents. Modern mineral wool has very thin fibers, rodents easily make passages in it and equip their nests. As a result, not only the thermal protection indicators worsen, but mice also appear in the premises.

On this, the black floor is completely ready, you can start laying the boards of the finishing floor.

Draft floor on the attic floor

It has several options, for example, we will consider the most complex of them. It is better to do the filing of the ceiling before the installation of the subfloor, but this condition is not necessary. When working with mineral wool insulation, it is recommended to use a respirator or mask to protect the respiratory organs, put on rubberized gloves on your hands.

Since there is no ceiling covering, nail a vapor barrier membrane underneath. Fasten it securely, it will hold the weight of the insulation for the first time.

Important! When performing further work in the attic for walking, make special passages, put long boards in these places. To improve security, it is recommended to temporarily fix them. The boards will somewhat complicate the process of laying the insulation, but they will minimize the risks of unpleasant situations.

Step 1. Start laying insulation in the space between the attic floor beams. We have already mentioned that when calculating the distance between the beams, the standard width of the materials for thermal insulation must be taken into account. Lay as tightly as possible, if there are two layers, then their joints should be shifted.

Important! When laying rolled mineral wool, do not allow sharp bends - in these places the thickness of the insulation is significantly reduced, a cold bridge is formed. And one more piece of advice. Do not press hard on the cotton, do not artificially reduce its thickness. Unlike pressed, roll does not withstand any loads.

Step 2 Install a wind and vapor barrier. Rolled mineral wool is easily blown through with drafts, and heat is removed along with the intake of fresh air. The membranes are fixed to the beams with a stapler. Professional builders do not recommend pulling the membranes strongly, it is desirable that they lie freely on top of the insulation. In the event of leaks, water will not enter the insulation through the holes made by the stapler brackets.

Step 3 Fasten the membrane along the beams with thin laths. Lay the subfloor boards on the slats. They can be screwed with screws or nailed.

Subfloor under laminate

This type of subfloor requires a more demanding attitude to the quality of the coating. If floors are made between floors, then insulation can be omitted. Warm air from the rooms on the first floor does not go outside, but heats the second floor. Due to this, the parameters of the microclimate of the rooms on the second floor are improved. Warming is done only on attic floors.

The subfloor serves as the basis for laminate flooring and must meet three requirements.

1. Hardness. The thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams are selected in such a way that deformations of the planes are completely excluded under the maximum possible loads.
2. Humidity. The relative humidity of lumber should not exceed 20%. Before laying the boards, it is necessary to dry them in a heated room for several days. During this time, they will acquire natural moisture and will not change linear dimensions.
3. Evenness. The deviation in the height of the plane cannot exceed two millimeters per two meters of length. Otherwise, the laminate floor will start to emit very unpleasant sounds during walking, appearing due to the friction of the elements in the connecting locks. It is impossible to eliminate these sounds. You will have to completely dismantle the flooring, level the subfloor and only then lay the laminate again. The work is long and expensive, it is better to immediately pay attention to quality. For rough floors, only sawn timber passed through a double-sided thicknesser should be used. The final adjustment of the subfloor to the laminate can be done with a parquet machine or a hand planer. The choice of tool depends on the total area of ​​coverage.

The evenness of the base should be checked with a long level or a rule, apply tools in various places on the subfloor and pay attention to the gaps. If deviations are found, the plane should be leveled with one of the tools. If the difference in height of the subfloor does not exceed a millimeter, then an unpleasant creak can disappear on its own after a few months of operation. During this time, the elements of the interlock will partially rub in, the abutting parts will reduce their thickness. Those that do not get used are slightly deformed, due to which the density of the locking joint decreases. These changes will not affect the quality and durability of laminate flooring.

When fixing the subfloor under the laminate, you need to slightly sink the heads of nails or self-tapping screws into the boards. The fact is that it is even theoretically impossible to achieve a perfectly even fit of the boards to the beams. Over time, in places where the boards sag, the nails may come out of the beams a little, because of this, the hat rises above the plane of the boards. This is highly undesirable for laminate floors. They are laid on a special bedding, have a sealed waterproofing. Hats of hardware with sharp edges damage the membrane layer, the tightness of the waterproofing is broken. Moisture that has entered through the holes between the laminate and the subfloor causes the appearance of fungi and rot on the wood. It is impossible to see the problem in a timely manner, it is detected after the lumber has lost its original properties. As a result, complex special measures are required for elimination, sometimes it is necessary to change the supporting structures.

On a note! Wooden beams should be able to move a little, never fix them in a stationary state. Today on sale there are special metal stops that allow the ends to move along the length.

And the last. The most optimal option for laying subfloors for laminate flooring are waterproof OSB boards or plywood. Sheets of large size, due to this, the number of joints is minimized, it is much easier to smooth out sharp differences in height. It is necessary to lay the slabs with damper gaps about 2–3 mm wide, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the material. Otherwise, swelling of the laminate floor is likely, their elimination will require the complete dismantling of both the finish coating and the leveling base.

smallpox stove

Video - Draft floor from OSB

23.12.2017

Wet floor construction on wooden beams. Draft floor on wooden beams

There are only two options for flooring in the construction of a wooden house: floors along logs and floors along floor beams. Which one to choose depends on the design features of the house. The easiest way is to lay the bottom floor on the logs, which in most cases happens. But the arrangement of beams has its advantages. Firstly, beams are an important part of the design of the house. They are built into the load-bearing walls, so the installation of the floor on them will give the house greater stability. Floors on wooden beams have one significant drawback: due to the fact that the beams are firmly built into the frame of the house, any impact on the floor is transmitted through beams to load-bearing and other walls. Therefore, the level of generated noise and audibility will be increased. In this regard, even if the structural feature of the structure is beams, the floors must be laid on them on a pre-fabricated frame that does not have points of contact with the crowns and walls of the house. However, there are still advantages in the arrangement of beams, as the basis for the floor, and not as a lag. First of all, these are low material costs for the construction of the lower floor, and the small weight of the material used for this purpose.

Embedding a beam in a brick wall

First of all, you should calculate the cross section of the beam and the distance through which they need to be laid. There are special tables for this, but most often the owner buys rectangular bars (often pine) 15/15 or 20/20, and stacks them with a distance of no more than 60 cm from each other.

In the event that the house is built of brick, or the upper part of the foundation is built on from this material, the beam is embedded tightly into such walls. Therefore, in the process of bricklaying, nests (openings) are necessarily provided, into which the ends of the beams will subsequently be laid. It is necessary to observe safety measures that will prevent rotting of the ends of the beams that will be laid in the nests. For this filter, the cavity of the opening in the brickwork is lined with a double layer of roofing material, and the beam itself, at a distance of at least 3/4 meters, is treated at both ends with a fire-retardant compound. It is highly desirable for them to cover all the wooden parts of the frame of the house. Important point: in order for the tree to be able to "breathe", which prevents the accumulation of condensate, the ends of the beams themselves cannot be treated with a composition that prevents this process. For example, resin. It is quite possible that the nest of the beam will be much larger than its section.

In this case, the resulting cavity is insulated with mineral wool or foam, or sealed with cement mortar.

It is important to consider here that between the wooden beam and the walls of the opening in the brickwork, an air gap of at least 3-5 cm must necessarily remain. The beams are laid freely, without attaching them to the masonry. It should be noted that the distance from the load-bearing wall to the first beam should not be less than 5 cm. The supporting part of the beam must be at least 15 cm, the nest depth - at least 18 cm. and laid in such a way that the direction of the cut forms a greater distance to the wall of the nest from above than from below. That is, the lower plane of the wooden beam should almost closely adjoin the brickwork, while its opposite, upper side, should be at least 5 cm away from the bricks.

The device of beams of the lower floor in a frame and wooden house

If the beams are installed during the construction of a frame house, then in this case they are arranged on the lower trim of the house and nailed to it with nails. The process is similar to the device of the lower strapping of the building.

In the event that the house is built from timber or logs, openings are cut in the walls, into which floor beams will subsequently be laid. In the same way as in the case of brick nests, wooden beams are treated with an antiseptic solution. Please note that the distance between the base of the stove, the chimney and the wooden beams must be at least 40 cm.

The device of wooden flooring and flooring on beams

• On both sides of each beam, bars are attached, to which the flooring is closely fitted. Boards, gypsum boards or other material can be used as it. The essence of the process is to form a flooring at the level of the lower plane of the beams.
• Waterproofing work should be carried out on the flooring panels to ensure the safety of the insulation. To do this, the entire plane of the flooring is smeared with a clay-sand mortar, or roofing material is laid.
• Floor insulation is installed. This can be done using slag, which is poured onto the flooring between beams, mineral wool boards, foam sheets, sawdust, or other floor insulation options.
• Next, the floors are laid on wooden beams. Planed boards with a thickness of at least 35 mm can be chosen as the material. Logs can be laid along the beams, and the floor can already be laid along them. This will be the best option, since in this case an additional ventilation gap is formed.

Private low-rise construction has become increasingly popular in recent years.

Do-it-yourself country houses and country houses are occupying an increasing share in the total volume of housing being put into operation.

The most demanded material in private construction is wood, due to its affordable cost and ease of processing. But not all individual developers have sufficient experience and knowledge to independently carry out the entire range of construction work. So, the question often arises of how to properly lay the floor of the second floor in compliance with all building codes and technologies.

Construction requirements for wooden floors

In order to mount a durable and safe wooden floor between the 1st and 2nd floors with your own hands, you must strictly comply with the technical requirements for them.

Thermal insulation layer

Thermal insulation of the floor will improve the temperature in the room on the second floor

If the wooden floor will separate the upper and lower rooms with a temperature difference between them of more than 10 ° C, it will be necessary to build a heat-insulating layer.

This is necessary, for example, when arranging ceilings between the first floor and the underground, basement or between the first / second floor and an uninsulated attic.

Beam strength

Beams and ceilings must withstand up to 180 kg / sq.m of load

When constructing the floor of the second floor on wooden beams, special attention should be paid to the strength of the supporting structures. The safety of the operation of the building depends on how durable the wooden beams of the floors are.

According to building codes for wooden low-rise buildings, the ceilings of the first floor should not exceed 210 kg per sq.m., the pressure on the wooden floor of the second floor should not exceed 180 kg / sq.m., and for attics and attics this figure should be less than 105 kg/sq.m.

Maximum deflection

In addition, building codes also impose requirements on the deflection of wooden floor beams. According to SNiP, this coefficient should not exceed 1 to 250. That is, the maximum deflection of wooden supporting structures during operation should be less than 4 mm per meter of beam length.

According to this standard, the deflection of a beam structure 4 m long in the center should not be more than 1.6 cm (4 m: 250 = 0.016 m). If it is planned to place massive furniture and household appliances in the room, flooring as a floor covering of tiles, etc., then the requirements for structural rigidity increase to 1 to 400.

That is, the deflection should not exceed 2.5 mm per meter. For non-residential attics and attic spaces, a larger deflection coefficient is allowed - 1 to 200 (5 mm per 1 meter).

Soundproofing

Fifty-millimeter mineral wool will not only insulate the floor, but will also become a good sound insulator

According to building codes, the sound insulation threshold for interfloor floors of residential buildings should be 50 dB.

To ensure this requirement, it will be enough to cover the floor of the second floor under the finish coat with mineral wool 50 mm thick.

The length of the beam should be no more than 5 m

The maximum allowable length of the free sag of wooden beams should not exceed 5 m for interfloor and 6 m for attic floors. If the design length of the room is more than 5 m, it will be necessary to install an additional support under the bearing beam. The fact is that the optimal length of the supporting wooden structure is 4 m.

With a further increase in its length, the rigidity and strength of the supporting structure decreases sharply and the requirements for the thickness of the beam section increase disproportionately. So, in order for the deflection indicators for an 8 m beam to “fit” into the SNiP standards, its thickness should be about 40 cm. For example: the same deflection indicator shows a 4 m beam with a cross section of only 15 x 15 cm.

Wood is a material quite vulnerable to external influences, primarily dampness and fire, therefore, before proceeding with the construction of load-bearing structures, all wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic materials and flame retardants.

Construction material

Before proceeding with the installation of the floor on the second floor on wooden beams, you should make a list of all the necessary materials. This will allow during work to avoid unforeseen downtime and delays caused by the need to purchase some building materials.

beams

A beam section of 15 x 15 will be enough

The basis of the entire structure of interfloor wooden floors is beams. They play the role of load-bearing elements, and the strength of the structure depends on them. For them, a bar or gun carriage with a section of 15 x 15 cm, or 18 x 18 cm is usually taken.

This section is usually enough to provide sufficient rigidity for a specific load of 400 kg per sq.m. In this case, it is necessary to observe the parameters recommended by building codes: the span is 4 m, and the step between the beams is 60 cm. Based on these parameters, you can also calculate the required amount of timber.

For the first floor of a residential building, this option is not suitable due to the low bearing capacity of the boards: to ensure the necessary rigidity, the step between the plank beams will have to be significantly reduced, which will lead to unjustified waste of material.

The most commonly used material for beams is pine. This is the best option according to the "price-quality" criterion: its wood is quite affordable and at the same time has good technical characteristics.

Bars made of wood of stronger species (larch, oak) can rarely be found on free sale, and their price is incomparably higher, and pine wood after appropriate treatment with antiseptics will not be inferior in terms of durability to the same larch.

When buying a bar, you should choose a material with dry wood. Otherwise, after mounting the beams, their deformation during the drying process is possible - bending and twisting.

Flooring

Wooden decking laid on beams will be a rough base for flooring

Usually, the flooring of interfloor ceilings is made in two tiers: from below there are rough floors, on which insulation is laid, and from above - pre-finishing flooring, mounted on top of the bearing beams. A decorative floor covering is laid directly on it.

To determine the nature and amount of material for flooring, you should clearly consider the design of the floors.

In the device of the subfloor, either 5 x 6 cm bars stuffed onto the supporting beams or grooves made in the beams can be used as a support for the floorboards. The latter option is quite laborious, so most often 5 x 6 cm bars are used to create a support.

To calculate the required number of bars, it is enough to count the number of beams and multiply them by the length of each of them. The resulting footage (the total length of all beams) is multiplied by two more (since the bars will be stuffed on both sides of each beam).

A wide range of materials can be used for finishing flooring. It can be boardwalk, plywood, chipboard, MDF, OSB, etc. Each of these materials has its advantages and disadvantages, after reading which you can choose one of them. To calculate the required amount of material, it is enough to simply calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

When purchasing building material, you should always purchase it with a margin of 10 - 15%, since unforeseen material overruns are inevitable during construction.

This will save you from having to interrupt work and buy the missing part.

Impregnation

Antiseptic will extend the life of the tree

To maximize the service life of wooden structures, they must be treated with antiseptic materials.

It will also be useful to treat wood with fire retardants, which increase its fire safety.

To calculate the required amount of impregnation, you should read the instructions for its use - it always indicates the approximate consumption of the mixture per sq.m.

Waterproofing

Since wood is afraid of moisture, waterproofing materials are always used in construction.

This can be rolled waterproofing used to create a water-repellent layer between wooden floor structures and the finish coat, or between wood and brick (stone, cinder block, etc.).

To protect the tree from moisture, you can also apply a coating waterproofing based on polymers or liquid bitumens.

Heat and sound insulation

If it is necessary to create a barrier to noise or cold, insulating materials are used in the construction of floors. Most often, for these purposes, use a minplate or foam. Their total number in area should be approximately equal to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. For more information about floor insulation, see this video:

Expanded clay or ordinary slag mixed with sawdust can also be used as an insulating material.

Fastening materials

To fasten wooden floor elements, you should purchase self-tapping screws, nails, steel corners, anchor bolts and other consumables. When purchasing screws and nails, attention should be paid to their length.

According to the standards for a strong connection, the nail should be 2/3 longer than the thickness of the attached element (board, bar). For self-tapping screws and screws, this figure can be reduced to 50%.

Those. for reliable fastening to the beam of the “magpie” board, you will need 120 mm nails or 80 mm self-tapping screws.

After all the necessary materials have been purchased, and all preparations have been completed, you can proceed directly to the construction work. The construction of interfloor floors can be divided into several main stages.

The part of the beam inserted into the wall is wrapped with three layers of waterproofing material

The installation of load-bearing beams is most often carried out at the stage of erecting the walls of the building. Before laying the bearing bars, their surface is treated with all the necessary impregnations.

Then their ends are cut at an angle of 60 ° and that part of them that will be walled up in the wall is wrapped in 2-3 layers of rolled waterproofing.

The ends of the beams are usually also coated with waterproofing compounds, but some experts advise leaving them open to allow the moisture contained in the wood to freely escape.

The depth of the beams to the depth of the wall should be at least 15 cm. The step of laying the beams is usually taken at 0.6 m, but depending on the expected load on the floors, as well as on the thickness of the beam section, this indicator can be reduced or increased.

The choice of the interval between the beams is also influenced by the technical indicators of the material used for the finished floor.

If the top flooring is supposed to be made of inch boards, plywood or chipboard, then the distance between the beams should not exceed half a meter, otherwise the floors will sag when walking. For more information about the installation of beams, see this video:

Floor joists must lie in the same plane

The installation of load-bearing beams starts from the two extreme walls, while the beams should be located at a distance of 5 - 10 cm. After installing the two extreme beams, we mount the rest, observing the required interval.

When laying beams, special attention should be paid to the horizontal slope: all floor beams must lie in the same plane. To do this, a cutting board is placed on the edge between the two extreme bars, or the twine is pulled tightly.

If the base on which the beams are laid is uneven, then mortgages should be installed under the ends of the beams to level the horizontal level. For mortgages, material is used that is resistant to decay and physical stress - metal plates, pieces of tiles, etc.

It is not recommended to use wooden wedges to adjust the level of the beams, as they can quickly rot, which will cause the lowering of individual floor beams and the curvature of the floor line.

The bearing bars are attached to the wall with anchor bolts and steel corners.

Fastening of support bars

After all the floor beams are exposed, bars with a section of 5 x 6 cm are attached to them (the so-called "cranial" bars). They serve as a support for laying the subfloor and are attached along the entire length of the bearing beam, on both sides.

They should be nailed in such a way that their bottom is flush with the bottom of the beams.

Most often, the draft floor is made from an inch board.

For the device of the subfloor, edged boards are taken and laid across the beams on the support bars. Since the distance between the beams usually does not exceed 0.6 - 0.8 m, then an inch or thirty board is quite suitable for subfloors: the pressure on them will be limited only by the weight of the insulation.

Also for these purposes, you can use a cut slab. You can also combine the draft floors of the second floor with the finished ceilings of the first floor or basement. In this case, edged boards are hemmed from below, from the side of the first floor to the beams. For more information about the draft field, see this video:

Thermal insulation flooring

After the installation of subfloors, compartments are formed between the beams, which, if necessary, can be filled with heat-insulating materials.

To do this, a hydro or vapor barrier (roofing material, isospan, etc.) is laid on top of the subfloor boards, and then mineral wool, polystyrene, slag with sawdust, etc. are laid.

In this case, the entire space between the bars should be densely filled. We fill the gaps between the beams and foam sheets with sealant.

It is also desirable to lay waterproofing on top of the insulation, which will protect it from moisture leaks from above.

The final stage will be the flooring of the finishing floors, which is mounted on top of the supporting beams with self-tapping screws or nails.

To do this, the material (boards, OSB, plywood) is cut in such a way that their joint falls in the middle of the beam. The finished floor is the basis for the finishing coating - laminate, linoleum, parquet.

Draft floors on wooden beams are widely used architectural elements in building construction. Depending on the specific location and features of buildings, they perform various functions and differ in the technology of arrangement.

Draft floors are used for the following purposes.

The manufacturing technology of rough floors largely depends on their specific purpose.

Design features of subfloors

Features of the manufacture of draft floors take into account the methods of fastening beams or floor logs. Beams can be installed on different structures.

Table. Structures on which beams can be installed.

It must be borne in mind that the fastening of the draft floors on the cranial timber reduces the thickness of the insulation layer. If the width of the beams or lag is less than 15 cm, then it is undesirable to use this option. The fact is that the recommended minimum thickness of the insulation is more than 10 cm, with a decrease in this indicator, the effectiveness of insulation is significantly reduced.

Beams - supporting elements for the construction of a floor or ceiling, must withstand the maximum design loads, have a margin of safety. Depending on the purpose and operating conditions of the premises, the thickness of the beams and the distance between them are selected. As materials, bars with dimensions of 50 × 50 mm or more or boards with parameters from 50 × 150 mm can be used. On lumber with even surfaces, the subfloor can be attached from the bottom, side or top, on round beams - only from the bottom or top.

Table. What elements does a classic draft floor consist of.

Depending on the specific placement and purpose of the subfloors, the listed elements may be added or excluded. We will look at some of the most commonly used types of subfloors.

Draft floor in a log house on beams

Beams should be thoroughly soaked with an antiseptic, preferably at least twice. The ends can lie on a strip foundation or beam, between concrete and wooden structures, two layers of roofing felt waterproofing must be laid. The upper and lower planes of the beams were hewn with an axe, the side surfaces were sanded. The subfloor will be made from sheets of moisture-resistant OSB approximately 1 cm thick. Keep in mind that the final thickness of the slab should be selected taking into account the distance between the beams. The main selection criterion is that the sheets should not bend under their own weight. Cheaper materials can also be used: unedged sanded boards of the third grade, used lumber, pieces of plywood, etc.

Practical advice! If floor insulation is planned, it is recommended to keep the distance between the beams within 55 cm. The fact is that pressed or rolled wool has a standard width of 60 cm, due to this distance between the beams, the insulation will be pressed tightly against the side surfaces, and this greatly increases efficiency insulation. In addition, mineral wool does not have to be cut, which speeds up construction work and minimizes the amount of unproductive waste of expensive material.

Step 1. Set the beams in place at a given distance, check the position of the top surfaces - they should all lie on the same level. To check, it is better to use a rope. Stretch it between the two extreme beams and adjust the rest to this level. To fit, it is better to cut off excess height, if this is difficult to do, then you can use linings. Professional builders do not recommend laying wooden wedges, over time they will shrink. Much better to use plastic or metal. Level check the horizontal position of the beams.

Step 2 Remove the beam, unscrew from the square. In the future, the element must be installed in the same place, otherwise the linearity of the finished floor may be disturbed, unpleasant squeaks will appear when walking. Turn it over with the bottom plane up, put it in an empty place on the foundation.

Step 3 From OSB boards, cut strips 5–6 cm wide more than the width of the bottom of the beam. The length does not matter, if necessary, the strips can be joined.

Practical advice! In order to save material, in the lower part of the timber, non-solid strips can be screwed into squares. The distance between them is 30–50 cm. The subfloor does not carry any load, the mass of heaters is negligible, there is no need to make strong shelves to install the subfloor.

Bars are stuffed at the bottom across the beams - one of the possible options

Step 4 Using an electric drill or screwdriver, fasten the strips to the beam. Use self-tapping screws that are at least one third longer than the thickness of the OSB board. Otherwise, the fixation will be fragile. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can use ordinary nails of the appropriate size.

Step 5 Do the same with all remaining beams. Unscrew them in turn, fix the OSB strips and install them in their original place.

Step 6 Cut the OSB boards to the width of the subfloor. If you have precisely maintained the distances between the beams, then you can immediately prepare all the elements. If for some reason the distances between the beams are not the same, then each strip will have to be measured separately.

Step 7 Lay the sheets on the shelves. There is no need to achieve a complete absence of gaps; the subfloor for insulation does not require exact observance of dimensions.

Practical advice! To make work easier, cut the sheets 1-2 cm narrower than the distance between the shelves. The fact is that the beam on the sides has bulges that narrow the clearance, due to a slight decrease in the width of the sheets, it is much easier to install them in place. Another plus of reducing the width is a compensating gap. OSB boards change their linear dimensions quite significantly during changes in relative humidity. If there are no compensating gaps, then the sheets may swell. For a subfloor, this is not critical, but swelling indicates a low qualification of builders.

Step 8 To reduce heat loss, you can blow out all the cracks with mounting foam.

On this, the manufacture of the subfloor is completed, you can begin laying the insulation. How to do it?

Step 1. Put a vapor barrier on the beams and the subfloor, do not pull it too hard, fasten it to the tree with a stapler. For vapor barrier, you can use expensive modern non-woven materials or ordinary cheap plastic film. There is no difference in efficiency, but the price may differ by an order of magnitude. Vapor barrier is a must, do not neglect it. The fact is that mineral wool reacts extremely negatively to an increase in humidity. With an increase in the index, the thermal conductivity increases exponentially, which sharply reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Another operational disadvantage is that the material dries for a long time. This means that wet wool will have a long contact with wooden structures. Such adverse conditions significantly reduce the life of lumber.

Important! Never store insulation outdoors. If you suspect high humidity, dry the material thoroughly, use only dry cotton wool.

Step 2 Lay the first layer of mineral wool 5 cm thick on the subfloor. Squeeze the edges tightly, do not allow cracks to form. Pressed mineral wool is slightly compressed and has elasticity, which allows it to occupy the most convenient place.

Step 3 Lay the second layer of insulation with offset seams. To do this, first lay the piece remaining from the last piece of pressed mineral wool. Using the same algorithm, insulate the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe subfloor. The thickness of the floor insulation for the northern regions of the country should be at least 15 cm, for the middle climatic zone 10 cm is enough.

Practical recommendation! It is not necessary to insulate the floor with one thin layer of mineral wool, a thickness of 5 cm has almost no heat-saving effect. Especially on the ground floor, where there is constant natural ventilation and heat is quickly removed from the premises.

Step 4 Cover the insulation with waterproofing. To do this, you can use any special materials. The waterproofing is fixed with a stapler, the width of the overlaps is at least 10 cm, the ends of the material are hermetically sealed with adhesive tape.

Step 5 On top of the waterproofing membrane on the logs, nail 20x30 slats or the remaining strips of OSB. Reiki will provide ventilation of the finished floor and will not allow mold to appear under it.

The underground must necessarily have ventilation openings that provide multiple air exchange. Do not forget to close the openings with metal bars that protect the underground from the penetration of rodents. Modern mineral wool has very thin fibers, rodents easily make passages in it and equip their nests. As a result, not only the thermal protection indicators worsen, but mice also appear in the premises.

On this, the black floor is completely ready, you can start laying the boards of the finishing floor.

Draft floor on the attic floor

It has several options, for example, we will consider the most complex of them. It is better to do the filing of the ceiling before the installation of the subfloor, but this condition is not necessary. When working with mineral wool insulation, it is recommended to use a respirator or mask to protect the respiratory organs, put on rubberized gloves on your hands.

Since there is no ceiling covering, nail a vapor barrier membrane underneath. Fasten it securely, it will hold the weight of the insulation for the first time.

Important! When performing further work in the attic for walking, make special passages, put long boards in these places. To improve security, it is recommended to temporarily fix them. The boards will somewhat complicate the process of laying the insulation, but they will minimize the risks of unpleasant situations.

Step 1. Start laying insulation in the space between the attic floor beams. We have already mentioned that when calculating the distance between the beams, the standard width of the materials for thermal insulation must be taken into account. Lay as tightly as possible, if there are two layers, then their joints should be shifted.

Important! When laying rolled mineral wool, do not allow sharp bends - in these places the thickness of the insulation is significantly reduced, a cold bridge is formed. And one more piece of advice. Do not press hard on the cotton, do not artificially reduce its thickness. Unlike pressed, roll does not withstand any loads.

Step 2 Install a wind and vapor barrier. Rolled mineral wool is easily blown through with drafts, and heat is removed along with the intake of fresh air. The membranes are fixed to the beams with a stapler. Professional builders do not recommend pulling the membranes strongly, it is desirable that they lie freely on top of the insulation. In the event of leaks, water will not enter the insulation through the holes made by the stapler brackets.

Step 3 Fasten the membrane along the beams with thin laths. Lay the subfloor boards on the slats. They can be screwed with screws or nailed.

Subfloor under laminate

This type of subfloor requires a more demanding attitude to the quality of the coating. If floors are made between floors, then insulation can be omitted. Warm air from the rooms on the first floor does not go outside, but heats the second floor. Due to this, the parameters of the microclimate of the rooms on the second floor are improved. Warming is done only on attic floors.

The subfloor serves as the basis for laminate flooring and must meet three requirements.

1. Hardness. The thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams are selected in such a way that deformations of the planes are completely excluded under the maximum possible loads.
2. Humidity. The relative humidity of lumber should not exceed 20%. Before laying the boards, it is necessary to dry them in a heated room for several days. During this time, they will acquire natural moisture and will not change linear dimensions.
3. Evenness. The deviation in the height of the plane cannot exceed two millimeters per two meters of length. Otherwise, the laminate floor will start to emit very unpleasant sounds during walking, appearing due to the friction of the elements in the connecting locks. It is impossible to eliminate these sounds. You will have to completely dismantle the flooring, level the subfloor and only then lay the laminate again. The work is long and expensive, it is better to immediately pay attention to quality. For rough floors, only sawn timber passed through a double-sided thicknesser should be used. The final adjustment of the subfloor to the laminate can be done with a parquet machine or a hand planer. The choice of tool depends on the total area of ​​coverage.

The evenness of the base should be checked with a long level or a rule, apply tools in various places on the subfloor and pay attention to the gaps. If deviations are found, the plane should be leveled with one of the tools. If the difference in height of the subfloor does not exceed a millimeter, then an unpleasant creak can disappear on its own after a few months of operation. During this time, the elements of the interlock will partially rub in, the abutting parts will reduce their thickness. Those that do not get used are slightly deformed, due to which the density of the locking joint decreases. These changes will not affect the quality and durability of laminate flooring.

When fixing the subfloor under the laminate, you need to slightly sink the heads of nails or self-tapping screws into the boards. The fact is that it is even theoretically impossible to achieve a perfectly even fit of the boards to the beams. Over time, in places where the boards sag, the nails may come out of the beams a little, because of this, the hat rises above the plane of the boards. This is highly undesirable for laminate floors. They are laid on a special bedding, have a sealed waterproofing. Hats of hardware with sharp edges damage the membrane layer, the tightness of the waterproofing is broken. Moisture that has entered through the holes between the laminate and the subfloor causes the appearance of fungi and rot on the wood. It is impossible to see the problem in a timely manner, it is detected after the lumber has lost its original properties. As a result, complex special measures are required for elimination, sometimes it is necessary to change the supporting structures.

On a note! Wooden beams should be able to move a little, never fix them in a stationary state. Today on sale there are special metal stops that allow the ends to move along the length.

And the last. The most optimal option for laying subfloors for laminate flooring are waterproof OSB boards or plywood. Sheets of large size, due to this, the number of joints is minimized, it is much easier to smooth out sharp differences in height. It is necessary to lay the slabs with damper gaps about 2–3 mm wide, which will compensate for the thermal expansion of the material. Otherwise, swelling of the laminate floor is likely, their elimination will require the complete dismantling of both the finish coating and the leveling base.

From the author: hi all! When we hear something related to wood, such as a wooden house, wooden furniture or a wooden floor, associations with warmth, comfort and ecological naturalness immediately arise in our head. If we are faced with a choice between wood and plastic, between wood and stone, we will always choose wood. It is not for nothing that many set out to bring into their lives as many things as possible from this wonderful material. Someone has already made their dreams come true by building a wooden house, and someone is just planning this step. But it will be useful for both of them to learn how to lay a subfloor on wooden beams.

Subfloor concept

The draft floor is a kind of frame, the skeleton of the floor. It contains insulating elements and other materials that give the coating the required characteristics. Let's list what it consists of:

• support beams;
• lags;
• shard timber;
• lower draft flooring;
• soundproofing;
• waterproofing;
• thermal insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• upper draft flooring.

In certain cases, you can do without some elements, but it all depends on the desired end result. Also, the subfloor is the basis for a finishing coating, for example, for parquet, laminate or boards, which will be polished in the future. It comes in two types: single or double.

• single - used mainly in apartments. Made of logs, overlaid with plywood or chipboard sheets;
• double also consists of logs, sherd bars, first and second floors. It is used in private homes where there is a need for insulation or sound insulation.

The components for covering the rough flooring can be chipboard, plywood, OSB board. Also began to gain popularity such material as fiberboard. It has excellent properties and is excellent for making bottom decking. Fiberboard does not support combustion, does not transmit sound waves well, is an excellent insulation, frost-resistant and moisture-resistant. The components of this material are wood fibers, “hair”, impregnated with a solution of durable cement.

How to choose wood?

It is necessary to take this task with all seriousness, because not only the life of the floor, but the entire house will depend on the correct choice. When choosing wood, you should focus on such important aspects:

Installation of a rough coating

Before starting the installation of a rough coating, let's take a closer look at how it is made.

1. For the log, a beam of the second or third grade is purchased, it has significant surface flaws, which must be removed before use with a planer or hand tools - a chisel, a mallet, an ax, a planer.
2. Then, all wood must be treated with an antiseptic. You should not save on these compounds, but it is better to repeat the treatment several times. Ignore the advice of "economists" who will tell you not to do this or treat with machine or transformer oil. You will spoil the tree forever, it will exude a pungent smell, and soon it will completely deteriorate.

Two types of draft floors can be distinguished: for installation on the floor, that is, for the manufacture of an interfloor floor and for installation on the base - for the first floor.

It must first be determined that called the subfloor because there are several opinions.

In some cases, the name is applied to the flooring laid on the support beam, fixed at the bottom of the log. The draft floor on wooden beams is the basis for the finish coat.

In contact with

Wooden floor construction

Properly arranged wooden floor able to serve without repair for more than a decade, so you should take the design calculations and the acquisition of high-quality materials very seriously. Wooden floors are of two types: having one coating and mainly used in non-residential premises and cottages, and multilayer, which being built in residential buildings. When installing a multilayer structure floors apply:

Choice of floor covering on wooden beams will largely depend on the finish, financial capabilities and desires of the owner.

The design can changes to be made with a small size of the room, there is no need to use retaining supports. If it is necessary to equip a concrete floor on wooden beams, asbestos-cement sheets are used as a rough coating, the surface of which provides the necessary adhesion to concrete.

Rough base

Most often in the subfield remains ground cover, but at a high level of groundwater, it is recommended to manufacture a concrete screed with subsequent waterproofing, which further protects the wooden structure from excessive dampness. The subfloor frame can be made according to a simplified scheme in small and narrow spaces, where the distance of the walls does not exceed three meters, when the log or beam in brick houses rests on the protrusion of the top of the foundation.

Roughing device floors in a wooden house has its own peculiarity: logs or beams are fastened with a groove connection with a lower trim or crown. Recently, instead of the groove connection, chrome-plated metal brackets, the use of which greatly facilitates and speeds up the installation process.

In large rooms, depending from the distance between the walls often a support beam is installed, and a log is attached to it. Such a frame requires a large amount of scaffolding. Sometimes, in order to save money, only a beam with retaining supports made of concrete and brick is used as a log. Both options are able to withstand significant loads.

Installation of a frame in a wooden house

Make a subfloor in a wooden house with your own hands is quite realistic if you have the necessary carpentry tools.

The best thing support beam installation and timber to be produced at the zero mark of building a house, especially if a groove connection is used . For this you need:

1. On the bottom harness use a level or spirit level to make marks so that they are on the same level.
2. Mark and make grooves on the harness and beam.
3. Install the bar in place.
4. Align the installed beam using a level or spirit level.
5. Carry out fixing work.

Installed timber fastened with nails or chrome-plated mounting brackets using screws.

Advice! the distance between the lags directly depends on the intended coating material and its thickness.

Log section calculation table and the distance between them, as well as the thickness of the board for the subfloor. If you plan to use sheets of plywood or OSB as flooring, then you should choose the minimum distance between the lags.

Fastening a beam to a wooden wall

There are circumstances when a building is erected under a roof and it is necessary to install flooring first floor on wooden beams . The question arises about the method of attaching the timber to the finished wooden wall. The easiest and most convenient way is to use special brackets designed for installing a wooden beam.

Mounting technology is simple. Brackets are attached to the horizontal marks with the required interval, on which the timber is subsequently laid and fixed with screws. This method allows you to quickly and make a quality device floors on the second floor on wooden beams .

Flooring manufacturing

For laying insulating material flooring required. The supporting part of the flooring is a beam 40x40 mm, which is fastened with nails or screws at the bottom of the log.

To fill gaps thin boards, plywood sheets or fiberboard sheets can be used, which are cut to size and stacked on the installed timber.

Attach boards or sheets there is no need, since they do not carry any load other than the small weight of the insulation. Sheets and boards should also not be fitted tightly; the remaining gaps are necessary for air circulation.

Note! in order to avoid the appearance of fungus, the occurrence of the process of decay, all used lumber must be treated with special impregnations before installation. All necessary information can be obtained from the seller.

isolation device

Insulation is needed to reduce heat loss at home. As a heater are most often used:

1. Expanded clay.
2. Styrofoam.
3. Penoplex.
4. Mineral wool.

It is worth noting, that expanded clay and foam were mainly used in the recent past and have a number of disadvantages compared to foam and mineral wool. Most often, various types of mineral wool:

1. Glass wool.
2. Slag cotton.
3. Basalt wool.

They are somewhat different according to specifications and price, but in particular, any type can be successfully used as a heater for laying a subfloor on logs. A waterproofing polyethylene film is laid on the flooring, then the opening is filled with mineral wool flush with the top of the log. Insulation is covered from above vapor barrier film, on top of which the draft floor will be mounted. In a similar way, sound insulation is laid under the floors along the wooden beams of the floor of the 2nd floor.

Structural materials

It is important to black floor covering was even and did not have hills or dips, such flaws will appear when laying the finishing floor. Most commonly used for coating the following materials:

1. Softwood edged board GOST 24454.
2. Waterproof sheets fiberboard GOST 10632.
3. Gypsum fiber board GOST 51829.
4. Softwood plywood GOST 3916.2.
5. Hardwood plywood GOST 3916.1.
6. Bakelized plywood GOST 11539.

It is possible to use OSB and other wood-based boards with a low formaldehyde content not higher than E0 or E1. You can calculate the required thickness of the selected material from the table.

Table structural materials calculations most commonly used to cover the subfloor.

Coating laying

For draft first floor floor it is desirable to use a grooved board with a tongue on one side and a groove on the opposite side. This option will reduce heat loss due to a tight butt joint. The board is laid perpendicular to the direction of installation of the lag. In large rooms, if the length of the board is not enough, and there is a need for docking, installation is carried out staggered with an offset . Fixing is carried out screws at the bottom of the groove at an angle of forty-five degrees.

Warning! the heads of the screws must be recessed into the groove so as not to interfere with the entry of the tenon.

Screws are driven with a screwdriver or an electric drill with a special nozzle.

Subfloor laying methods for sheet material are somewhat different from covering with boards. Sheets of plywood, OSB and other wood-based panels are laid on the logs apart, while the junction of the long sides of the sheets must be in the middle of the log.

The gap between the plates should be two to five millimeters, which will eliminate the possibility of squeaking with temperature changes. Sheets are fastened with countersunk head screws with a recess or flush with the surface of the floor material. At the end of the installation work, the joints and fastener holes are filled silicone sealant.

Useful video

Making a subfloor not as technically complex as it might initially seem, and quite within the power of almost every man with basic carpentry skills. The design of the subfloor must be designed for long-term operation, which is facilitated by compliance with technological conditions.