Drilling work is not particularly difficult and often does not require other equipment than a conventional drill. Therefore, in home workshops, a drilling machine may not be available. However, if you have a DIY bench drill press, you can breathe a sigh of relief, as part of your worries will resolve itself.
Purpose of the drilling machine
Sometimes there are situations when an electric or hand drill is not able to provide the desired parameters of the hole being drilled. Often in amateur radio practice, it is necessary to manufacture printed circuit boards, where many holes should be drilled, which have a small diameter. Drilling holes with a diameter of 0.5-1 mm with a hand or electric drill or a large drilling machine is inconvenient, and the drill may break.
Buying industrial drilling machines is not always economically feasible, and then you can make a homemade drilling machine. Many people choose mini drilling machines, because, despite the apparent complexity of the design, they are actually very simple equipment and consist of four parts.
A self-made drilling machine is designed for drilling through and blind holes in solid material, for example, reaming, reaming, countersinking, cutting discs from sheet materials and cutting internal threads. Drilling and milling machines can perform milling, surface grinding, bevel milling and horizontal milling.
To perform the above operations, a countersink, drill, tap, reamer and other tools are used. Using special fixtures and additional tools, you can cut a hole with a large diameter, bore a hole and accurately lap the hole.
Types of drilling machines
Drilling machines are of the following types: single and multi-spindle semi-automatic, vertical drilling, jig boring, radial drilling, horizontal boring, horizontal boring, diamond boring. Models are designated by numbers and letters. The first digit indicates the group to which the machine is assigned, the second - the type of machine, the third and fourth - the dimensions of the machine or the dimensions of the workpiece being processed.
The letter that comes after the first digit means that a certain model of the drilling machine is upgraded. If the letter is located at the end, then it should be understood that, on the basis of the main model, a drilling machine different from it was made. It is possible to distinguish from all drilling machines such main varieties of universal machines: multi- and single-spindle, radial and horizontal drilling.
Depending on the area of use, a distinction is made between special and universal drilling equipment. Specialized machines for mass production and large-scale industry have also found wide application, which are manufactured on the basis of universal machines by equipping them with multi-spindle thread-cutting and drilling heads and by automating the work cycle.
Drilling machine design
The drilling machine, like other technological machines, consists of the following components: a transmission mechanism, an engine, controls and a working body. The transmission mechanism is designed to transmit movement from the electric motor to the working body, which is considered to be a drill, which is mounted in a chuck mounted on a spindle - a rotating shaft.
Rotation to the spindle from the electric motor is transmitted by means of a belt drive. By turning the handle, the chuck and drills can be lowered or raised using rack and pinion.
On the front panel of the drilling machine there are buttons for switching off and on the electric motor. The device of the drilling machine is quite simple: the machine is turned on by pressing one of the extreme buttons, depending on the desired direction of rotation of the spindle, you can turn off the machine by pressing the middle red button.
A fixed vertical screw-column is attached to the base of the machine. By turning the handle, you can move the headstock up or down along the screw, the second handle serves to fix it in the required position. Control the depth of blind holes using the provided scale.
Depending on the workpiece material, different drilling speeds are required. To do this, it is customary to set a certain spindle speed by transferring a belt drive belt to pulleys of various diameters. In the workshops of factories, more complex schemes of drilling machines are used than have just been considered.
The principle of the machine
Before drilling with a homemade machine, you need to remove everything superfluous from the desktop. The workpiece with the marked centers of the holes must be fixed in a vise. Then insert a drill of the desired diameter into the chuck and fix it with a special key. To check the correctness of the work performed, the machine is turned on for a while.
If you have correctly installed the drill, when rotating, its tip will not describe a circle. If it is installed with a warp and its beating occurs, then the drilling machine must be turned off and the drill must be fixed according to the instructions of the drilling machine. Then turn the feed handle, lower the drill and set the vise with the workpiece in such a way that the core coincides with the tip of the drill.
Turn on the machine and drill a hole, press the feed handle smoothly, without much effort and jerks. When drilling a through hole, place the workpiece on a wooden block so that the drill does not break and the machine table does not deteriorate.
When drilling a deep hole, take the drill out of the hole from time to time and cool it by dipping it in a bowl of coolant. It is recommended to reduce the pressure on the handle at the end of drilling. After drilling a hole, smoothly turn the feed wheel, raise the spindle to its highest position and turn off the machine.
Drilling machine manufacturing
A drilling machine is easy to make with your own hands. In everyday life, it is beneficial to have fixtures and tools for carpentry and plumbing work on hand. After the obsolescence of many household appliances, many useful spare parts and electric motors remain in the arsenal of the owners, from which, if desired, you can make such useful equipment as a drilling machine.
Drilling machine from a drill
The easiest solution for you will be to assemble a mini drilling machine with your own hands using a drill. The drill weighs a little, so the rack can be made from chipboard, boards or sheet metal. For comfortable work on such a home-made machine, it is necessary that it turns out to be quite massive to absorb the vibration of the drill and sufficiently stable.
It is important to get a right angle between the holder and the base. Usually, the drill is attached with two clamps (it is better to place a rubber gasket between the clamp and the drill) to the board, which moves along the guides that are fixed on this movable board and on another fixed board. The downward and upward movement of the movable board is controlled by a lever associated with it.
The downward movement of the lever can be limited by a bar supporting the lever in the lower position. A fixed board is attached to a horizontal pipe through a flange. A horizontal pipe through a square is attached to a vertical pipe, which is attached through a flange to the base of the machine (to a thick wide board) or to a workbench.
The height of the bar, which limits the lower position of the lever, is adjusted, which allows you to change the depth of drilling. Make 4 holes in the movable board, which are intended for clamps fixing the drill. On its side, which faces the fixed board, narrow rails are glued, which are lubricated with wax for better glide.
The drill, in addition to clamps, is fixed with two rods that support it from below. Since with such a fastening, the shape of the drill does not strictly ensure the vertical position of the drill, it is necessary to glue a lath to the board to compensate for this.
To ensure the free movement of the drill, the guides must be prepared strictly in the vertical direction. They can be a protrusion of aluminum metal profiles, which are screwed with threaded screws to the boards along the entire length. Having assembled a solid and stable structure, it is necessary to fix the profile guides strictly perpendicular to the plane of the base and parallel to each other.
In the photo of self-made drilling machines, the places of attachment to the movable platform of the drill and the method of mounting the guide profiles are clearly visible. The guides must ensure high-quality pressing of the movable to the fixed board. The main condition for this is the absence of distortions and backlash.
When assembling the lever, remember that you cannot tighten the moving parts; it is customary to use a second nut to lock the nuts. The rail that leads to the movable board from the lever should be rounded at the end. After reducing the pressure forces to automatically raise the drill to the upper position, it is necessary to put the springs on compression or tension.
One end of the spring is attached to the horizontal pipe with a wire, and the other end is attached to the bottom of the movable board. When the spring is not flexible enough, and a fixed board interferes, then this is done through a rope.
Machine from a motor from a washing machine
The drawing of a drilling machine, which is assembled on the basis of a motor from a washing machine, differs from the one discussed above in the most complex mechanics and the type of electric drive. The asynchronous motor from the old washing machine is heavier and has more vibration. The shaking will be stronger the farther from the rack the engine is located.
Intense vibration provokes inaccurate drilling and breakage of the drill. There are two ways out - to make a powerful frame so that when the drill is lowered, the drive also lowers, or the motor is placed motionless closer to the holder stand, then only the working part of the drilling machine will walk.
The second method involves a more complex implementation. Here you need a pulley and a belt that allow you to adjust the speed of rotation. There are many solutions without a belt drive with a drive located against the wall. They are much easier to assemble, but the assembly, which will be discussed below, is characterized by an unconventional approach, and certain applied techniques may be useful.
Vibrations still remain, but they are so minimal that when drilling iron with a 0.7 mm drill, the drill remains intact. At home, you can only dream of high precision in the manufacture of such mechanisms, but you still need to strive for maximum fitting of parts. The characteristics of the drilling machine and its performance will depend on this.
The moving part of the machine consists of an axial hexagon, a tube of a suitable size, a clamping ring and two bearings and a tube with an internal thread to secure the chuck. On the hexagon, part of the future transmission system, a pulley is subsequently put on. The tube must first be cut with a grinder along both ends, and make the cuts on top deep enough to ensure a secure grip with the hexagon.
The entrance must be made tight, driven in with a hammer. If donning occurs without much effort, then you need to pick up another tube. Then stuff the compression ring and bearings. The height adjustment system consists of a pipe with cuts and a gear. To make the cuts accurately, you need to roll out the plasticine and drive along it with a gear.
An imprint will appear, which is easy to measure and make the appropriate markup on the adjusting pipe. The length of this ladder should correspond to the maximum height to which the drill can be raised. Press the axle with hexagon and bearings into the slotted tube.
Such a design will go back and forth vertically in the stationary tube of the bed when the gear is scrolling. At the same time, the axis is rotated in a horizontal plane through a belt drive. The bed is made of a metal corner with the help of bolts. The whole structure is attached to the wall.
And finally, remember that the first option for assembling a drilling machine is preferred. The proposed second version of the assembly can be supplemented or improved. However, such a simplified solution deserves attention.
Every master knows that a special tool is needed to make a hole - a drill. Now, no home is complete without this tool. Most of all, craftsmen who work with wood or stone all the time need to use a drill.
The most difficult thing in such cases is to make a lot of holes accurately and evenly. In large factories for the manufacture of such products, there are special machines for drilling.
For a master at home, such a huge device is useless, so most often people make their own drilling machines.
In size, such a machine is much smaller and more compact than the factory one. It can be easily placed in a small garage or workshop. We will now consider how to make and design a drilling machine with our own hands.
What is needed to make a machine
Such a tool is indispensable for those who constantly work with plastic, metal, stone or wood. When drilling, they can make many holes with great accuracy, as well as make wooden blanks, cutting them in the right places. In addition, it is very easy to change the height of the device and adjust the angle of inclination.
In order to manufacture the necessary machine, drawings are first of all drawn up. The second stage will be the selection and purchase of materials. Well, after purchases, you can begin to assemble the desired tool.
However, before making a drawing, choose how your machine will look like. There are many models of homemade drilling machines, so it is important to choose the most suitable one for you.
Types of drilling machines do it yourself
There are various types of drilling machines made at home. They differ in: material of manufacture, structure, size.
And home craftsmen do not stop coming up with new designs and select sizes for drilling machines. After all, not everyone makes machines according to ready-made drawings.
Here are some of the most popular drill press designs:
Cordless machine made of wood. This design is well suited for portable drilling of large workpieces. Since the work of the drill in such a machine is provided by the battery, it is necessary to make a special wooden box. The drawing of the machine is adjusted independently to the dimensions of the built-in drill.
Mini drilling machine. Making such a tool does not take much effort and time. This design is considered the most economical, does not require a large amount of materials. The model is designed depending on the size and shape of the drill; the drill itself can be fixed with ordinary rubber bands or cable ties.
Machine made of plastic pipes. This option is good for those who, after repairing plumbing, have pipe trimmings. Otherwise, this option is very economical, since PVC pipes are cheaper than metal or wood. It is not so difficult to make it, the main thing is to observe the proportions and sizes.
These machines are easy to assemble, not expensive and very convenient. But still, most often masters prefer a more classic version. What is required for its assembly, we will consider further.
Assembly materials and tools
Before starting work, first of all, you need to draw up a drawing of a drilling machine with your own hands. After that, the preparation phase begins. At this stage, the purchase of the necessary materials and the choice of a tool for work takes place.
The choice of tool is important, so when assembling a classic machine, you will need the following:
- Circular saw or machine.
- Electric jigsaw.
- Bulgarian with a nozzle for polishing.
- Drill.
- Grinding machine.
- Hand tools as needed.
After the tool is ready, we proceed to the choice of material and blanks. Here are the parts needed to make it:
- A sheet of plywood, at least 15 mm thick.
- Docks for the hull.
- Roller guides.
- Fasteners.
- Sleeve.
- Making a vise for a drilling machine with your own hands
The drilling machine itself consists of several important elements. These are elements such as the base, the working surface, the attachment of the drill itself, the drill and the handle mechanism.
The working surface is designed for the drilling process and for fastening all other parts. The handle is made on a spring mechanism and makes it easy to lower the drill when drilling. With the help of this manual, you can easily select the parts for the future machine.
DIY drilling machine photo
In carpentry, drilling holes is indispensable, so one of the most popular tools for a carpenter is a drill, electric or manual.
It is convenient to work with blanks of small thickness with such a tool, to drill sheet material, plywood, but it is difficult to make a hole in a thick blank without spoiling its geometry.
A homemade drilling machine will cope with this task. Made by hand, it will not be a heavy burden on the family budget and will become a reliable assistant to the home master.
Drilling machine, why is it needed
Drilling thin material is not a problem. It is enough to pick up a drill, a few seconds - and the job is done. But what if you need a precisely calibrated hole in a thick beam? A hand tool will not work, there is a high risk of spoiling the workpiece. The result will be a shift in the center of the hole, a change in geometry, torn edges. A drilling machine will help to avoid such shortcomings and create a hole with the given parameters.
Due to the reliable fixation of the workpiece and the centering of the tool, drilling accuracy is ensured, which cannot be achieved when working with a drill. Precision is a must when making furniture in the home workshop. To create a homemade welding machine for furniture, you will have to slightly modify the finished tool. Production does not require much effort and time.
Do not forget about the versatility of this machine: by changing drills, you can work with any material, from soft wood to metal, easily drilling sheet steel. Instead of a drill, you can use a milling cutter, then the device will replace a low-power milling machine. Among other things, a drilling machine will greatly facilitate the work of the master. It is easier to work with a stationary device, there is no need to carry a heavy tool.
Stationary machine from a hand drill
Almost every home craftsman has an electric drill. This is one of the most versatile power tools. By changing nozzles, in addition to drilling, it can drill walls, clean seams, and clean the surface of the material. Among other things, on the basis of a drill, craftsmen make a number of desktop machines, including drilling.
Tools that will be required for work:
- a circular saw;
- jigsaw;
- Bulgarian;
- coarse sandpaper;
- a simple set of hand tools;
- Ruler and pencil.
You will also need an electric drill itself. It will help in assembling the device, and then take its place on the bed. An additional plus from this design is that the drill can be removed at any time and used for its intended purpose.
The drilling machine from an electric drill is simple, because little material is required. It is necessary to prepare a piece of board, plywood with a thickness of 15 mm or more, furniture guides, as well as self-tapping screws and bolts with nuts.
The board from which the frame is made must be dry, without cracks and mechanical damage, with a minimum number of knots. Before starting work, it is cycled, if necessary, treated with sandpaper.
Instructions for the manufacture of the machine
The basis of the design of a homemade machine is a frame. It consists of a vertical stand and a horizontal support. A worktop and a spindle box are attached to the rack. The step by step assembly instructions are as follows.
Rack
As a material for the stand of a homemade drilling machine, slats cut from a pine board are used. You will need two blanks with a section of 30x40 mm and two 20x20 mm. The length of each of them is 60 cm. It is convenient to cut the board with a circular saw, after adjusting the side stop. Finished slats are sanded to remove burrs.
The bars are fastened in pairs, aligning along one of the faces. The joints are coated with carpentry glue, self-tapping screws are used for fixing. The result is two identical corners of wood.
The racks are interconnected by two jumpers, bars measuring 80x40x20 mm. They are installed on the inside of the corners, on the outside they are reinforced with inserts cut from the same board.
Spindle box
The second step is to make the spindle box. It holds the electric drill, while ensuring its movement in a vertical plane. The box is made from plywood. It is necessary to cut two blanks 155x55 mm and one 140x155 mm.
The mobility of the node is provided by furniture guides. You will need 4 pcs. 120 mm long. At the ends, using pliers, bend the stoppers. The guides are screwed onto plywood blanks, two for wide, one for narrow.
Assemble the spindle box. It has the shape of the letter P, the guides are on the inner surfaces. With the help of self-tapping screws, the box is mounted on a vertical frame. The resulting structure should move easily, but without distortions and backlashes.
Drill holder
Next, a drill lock is made. This is one of the most important parts of the machine. To ensure sufficient strength, it is made from two plywood blanks glued together with a size of 165x85 mm. A round hole is cut into the workpiece. Its diameter depends on the drill model. In any case, the drill should enter freely, but without a large gap. A correctly made latch will allow you to use the device as a grooving machine, it will be possible to make longitudinal grooves in soft material.
On the outside of the latch, a cut is made to allow the drill to be clamped, a hole is drilled in its cheeks, inside which a locking screw is installed. The latch is mounted on a movable box using self-tapping screws; for greater reliability, it is reinforced from below with a plywood corner.
Support
The machine must be stable on the workbench, for this a horizontal support is used. It is made from the same plywood. It is necessary to cut blanks with dimensions of 260x240 mm and 50x240 mm.
First, the vertical frame and the narrow part of the base are connected, the junction is glued, self-tapping screws are used for fixation.
The resulting structure is attached to the support. It is best to use M6 bolts, the nuts of which are pressed into the plywood base from below. You can also use under-thaw bolts, then the nuts will be located at the top.
tabletop
The table of the machine is made of plywood, you can use laminated chipboard (LDSP). The dimensions of the working surface are 260x240 mm. For its fastening, you will need a piece of plywood 260x50 mm and corners with sides of 60 mm.
Using self-tapping screws, the table for the drilling machine is connected to the side bar. The connection must be reliable, it is recommended to glue it. Reliability of the design will add triangular inserts glued at the corners.
It will be more convenient to work with the machine if the tabletop is movable. It is not difficult to ensure its vertical movement, you just need to provide a guide bar on the bar, drill a through hole, and pass a long bolt through it.
Spring loaded and drill feed
In normal condition, the spindle box with the drill installed on it should be at the top of the vertical frame. To achieve this, use a spring with suitable parameters. It is installed between the corners of the frame, to fix it, a screw with a ring is screwed into the upper jumper, and a self-tapping screw into the box body.
Forced lowering of the drill is carried out using a movable handle. It is made from a bar, one end of which is fixed at the top of the frame. It is desirable to strengthen the lever; at the place of its attachment, a metal sleeve of a suitable diameter is pressed into the tree. Fix the lever with a bolt.
To transfer force, a metal bar with holes at the ends is used. Its length is chosen empirically, fixing - with ordinary self-tapping screws.
It remains to install the drill, fix it and perform test drilling. Just in the course of it, a technological hole will be drilled in the tabletop, at the exit point of the drill, which will allow you to work with material of any thickness.
The finished machine must be covered with several layers of varnish or painted. Thus, it will be possible not only to give it a finished look, but also to ensure durability and safety of operation.
Options for homemade drilling machines
A full-fledged drilling machine can be made from a used car steering rack. According to its dimensions, a frame is made on which the electric motor is mounted. The engine from an old washing machine is perfect. The transmission of rotation is carried out using a belt drive. It is better to use a pulley with several grooves, this will allow you to adjust the speed, thereby working with material of different hardness. According to the same scheme, do-it-yourself filler machines are made.
You can drill holes of small diameter on a small machine made from the skeleton of an old microscope, on which an electric motor from a tape recorder is installed. It is guaranteed to cope with thin sheet material. The only difficulty in the manufacture of such a device is that it is difficult to find a suitable cartridge.
A drilling machine in the workshop will make life much easier for the home master. Even a simple home-made device made from an electric drill can open up new horizons for him. Drilling wood, metal, making grooves, making furniture - all this will become possible with a homemade drilling machine.
A home drilling machine (simply a drill) is equipment that anyone who has ever mastered at least something once feels an urgent need for. Craftsmen sometimes make drills with 2-speed gear, part tables with more than 3 degrees of freedom, and even two-coordinate CNC drilling and milling machines, see fig. below. But in this publication we will consider the manufacture of a drilling machine with our own hands - one that simply drills and mills - but accurately, cleanly, and confidently keeps its accuracy for a long time subject to occasional short-term overload: stable processing accuracy is the main requirement for metal cutting equipment. Which in amateur designs is performed, unfortunately, most often only due to a random combination of circumstances.
Metal or wood?
Wooden drilling "machine"-monster
It always seems to beginners that woodworking is easy and simple. A damaged workpiece will fit into small crafts or fuel. Perhaps that is why a real craze has recently been observed: home-made machines with responsible wooden parts. As a result, monsters sometimes appear in the world, which, probably, would have surprised Archimedes, see fig. on right. However, remember: the best achievable accuracy on wood is +/- 0.5 mm. In metal cutting, the largest allowable error is 0.375 mm by default (in England and USA 0.397 mm = 1/64 inch). At this point, the question of using wood as the main structural material of the machine is closed without discussion that, they say, wood, moreover, is deformed, worn out and damaged by orders of magnitude lighter than metal. Well, for lovers of deep inner self-satisfaction in products - free will for their money and work.
Drill device
Fantasy is an indispensable condition for any creative success, but in mechanical engineering it is useless without precise calculations and reconciliation with proven solutions. The history of machine tool building goes back thousands of years - bow turning and drilling machines with a foot drive were used already at the end of the Stone Age. On the topic of this article, the tested sample is an industrial design desktop vertical drilling machine. We will refer to it, choosing and deciding how best to make a drilling machine with our own hands: there are single copies of drills in operation, which have exceeded 100, and they still hold accuracy.
The device of a desktop vertical drilling machine is shown in the figure:
Its main modules are a bed, a column, a console and a table for the part. The components of the main nodes are slightly highlighted in color, and their components are brighter in colors. The simplest table (not counting the wooden block) is a vise. The rotary-sliding table allows, in addition to drilling, to perform some milling operations. The frame is usually tightly attached to a workbench or other reliable support.
Screw clamp - fixing the console of the mini-drilling machine
In operation, the console is set in the required position according to the size and configuration of the workpiece using the lifting and turning mechanism of the slider, and fixed. The spindle is fed into the working stroke by a separate feed mechanism. In amateur and industrial designs for home use, the lifting and turning mechanism is most often the operator's hand, and the latch is the screw clamp of the slider, see fig. on right; in TB, both are acceptable. But what must certainly be in the design of a drilling machine according to the requirements of the same PB is a fender or just a fender: if you throw the feed handle, the spindle or carriage along with it should automatically bounce up to the stop. In home drills, the fender is most often a spring installed in a suitable place, see below.
Note: industrial production, sale and use at enterprises and in workshops of IP drilling machines without a fender are prohibited by the PTB.
Make or buy?
An electric drill is a ready-made drive, gear, spindle and chuck in a monoblock. Put it on the carriage of the machine - and you can drill. In terms of accuracy, the solution, generally speaking, is not optimal (see below), but in many cases it is acceptable, but it eliminates the need to order expensive turned parts of increased accuracy, see below. In view of what the beds for installing a drill are now sold, perhaps not on the street from trays; prices are affordable. When choosing one to make a drilling machine from a drill, be guided primarily by the mode of operation of the equipment; the price also depends on it:
- Episodic drilling / milling for yourself with the accuracy of what happens - a cast plastic bed or stamped steel. The feed mechanism is lever with a cranked lever (see below). Sliding bearings of the carriage (see below) steel on steel or with nylon liners. Prices are $20-$30.
- Regular drilling for yourself or to order with conventional machine-building precision. Processed materials - up to the hardness and toughness of conventional structural steel. Everything is the same, but plain bearings are steel on steel (worse) or with bronze bushings, and the frame is cast iron or (more expensive) composite is also vibration-absorbing. Prices are $30-$40.
- Regular drilling and milling of any materials that can be tooled with periodic overloads of the tool and / or with increased accuracy - plain bearings only bronze on steel, cast iron bed. The feed mechanism is rack and pinion (see more below); vibration-absorbing console. Prices are $60-$180.
Note: As a rule, a rotary-sliding table for the workpiece is optionally offered with drill stands, which allows for certain types of milling. Price within $20.
Choosing a bed
The frame for the drill (which sellers for some reason stubbornly call racks) must be chosen not by manufacturer (“China” - not “China”); Now the market is full of "German China", not to mention the products of the post-Soviet states. You need to check the design.
Firstly, specimens with plastic non-nylon sleeves of plain bearings are unequivocally rejected: the runout and drift of the drill by more than 0.5 mm will appear already on the 10th - 20th "hole" and will continue to increase. The second is the backlash of the console. We take it by the far end, shake it up and down and to the sides with the clamp clamped. There should not be a noticeable "talker" (the tactile sense of an untrained person feels a beating of 0.4-0.5 mm).
Next - inspection of the structure, see fig. below. For conventional drilling, the one shown in pos. 1. The ideal option is on pos. 2: drill collet clamp, shifting the column to the side reduces the vibration of the console by an order of magnitude, and turning it sideways by 45 degrees, you can mill by hand with precision “as best you can” a part on a standard non-sliding table, removing a pair of table mounts, because at the same time, its manual displacement relative to the horizontal working axis of the console will be linear.
And here is a sample in pos. 3 do not take in any case. Firstly, the collar of his column is low and its fastening is unreliable. Secondly, the longitudinal grooves under the table facilitate manual milling “how it goes”, but, unlike the diagonal ones, they do not dampen the vibrations of the bed. Moreover, they will concentrate where indicated by the arrows (the tide under the column is made too narrow) and from there they will go straight to the column and table.
What is cheaper?
Let's say the price of the frame you like does not suit you. Or a drill, if it is a "draft", with a percussion mechanism, which was in work on building structures and the beating of the cartridge can be seen by eye. Then, first of all, we find out if the master who owns a lathe of increased accuracy (not coarser than 0.02 mm) is within reach. Which, by the way, is not a fact - a high-precision machine is very expensive and never pays off on a stream of common orders. But, let's say, found. We take the drawing in Fig. on the right, we go to him and ask if he can carve it out of steel no worse than 30HGSA, and how much he will take for work. “This” is the drawings of the table drill spindle. The rest of its details can be machined on a conventional machine, or found in the ruins at the iron market or in your trash. Most likely, it will turn out that buying a bed + table is cheaper, and if you estimate the costs for the rest, then, perhaps, a drill with increased accuracy will be outlined. On sale there are; they can be recognized by the absence of a percussion mechanism and a collar specifically for installation in a bed: a turned steel cuff is put on it.
If you still do
However, there may be cases when a homemade drilling machine will either be cheaper or even for nothing, or the best drill on the frame will not replace it. The fact is that, in addition to bending and vibration loads, torsional loads are also transmitted from the working body (tools - drills, cutters). This is due to the difference in the lever arms from the axis of the column to the closest to it and the far edges of the tool; torsional loads from the cutter, gnawing the material with one edge, are an order of magnitude greater than from the drill. Therefore, it is unrealistic to obtain an accuracy of processing with a drill on a bed over 0.1 mm (why - see below), but let's say, a hole of 2.7 is needed for the M3 thread; under M2.5 - 2.2, and the processing error in this case is unacceptable. In general, it makes sense to make a drill with your own hands, despite the costs, if:
- You are a radio amateur and work with components with a pin pitch of 2.5 and 1.25 mm (“thousand-legs” with a pitch of 0.625 mm are already mounted only on a plane). Then you need a PCB drilling machine with an accuracy of at least 0.05 mm;
- You are engaged in other fine work on wood and metal. For example, it is impossible to make a beautiful elegant box or a reliable hiding place in the house using only manual drilling;
- You drill / mill from time to time for yourself and the accuracy will suit you which will come out, and there is a lot of junk in the gas holders.
Note: in the latter case, you are lucky, suddenly an old children's bicycle is lying around somewhere. The tubes of its frame are of excellent steel, and the wheel hub is almost a finished spindle; on order, only an adapter with a Morse taper for a tool chuck remains. Working thoughtfully and carefully, an old bicycle can be turned into a drilling machine with an accuracy of approx. 0.1 mm, or actually a free drill stand, see for example. video:
Video: do-it-yourself drill stand
Layout
But, let's say we need higher accuracy, and we need to mill the grooves without losing it. In this case, the layout of the machine is of paramount importance.
The best option is the location of the spindle and the drive on opposite sides of the column, pos. 1 in fig. The heavy motor in this scheme acts as a counterbalance to earthquake-resistant buildings: it reflects vibration and torsional loads from the spindle in antiphase. In the area of the column from partially extinguish each other. The damping is maximum if the center of gravity of the carriage is exactly along the axis of the console, and the higher, the thinner the drill and the less pressure on it. That is, the accuracy of the machine for fine work increases, and at the same time, without loss of accuracy, it can withstand quite significant overloads.
Note 4: it is possible to make a drill for precision work with a direct drive to the spindle and the location of it and the drive on the same side of the carriage if there is a ready-made vibration damping frame, for example. from an old microscope (under 2), etc. optical devices.
In mini machines for printed circuit boards and jewelry work, an unpleasant effect is observed: in order to obtain an accuracy above 0.05 mm, the column has to be made disproportionately thick, pos. 3. This is due to the fact that its ability to absorb vibrations and torsional loads is determined by the cross-sectional area, which falls squarely with a decrease in the size of the part. For boards for components with a lead pitch of 2.5 mm, as well as small metalwork and carpentry work, an accuracy of 0.05 m is sufficient. In this case, the main influence on its deterioration is exerted by loads bending the column. To parry them, it is enough to use a double column of a 10-14 mm bar from ordinary structural steel, pos. 4. If the usual accuracy of 0.375 mm is sufficient, then by doubling the column, a drilling machine for episodic work can even be made from a drill and propylene water pipes, pos. 5. Its resource before loss of accuracy is small, but the material is also cheap and does not require processing to order.
Innings
An important role for the accuracy of drilling is also played by the device of the spindle feed mechanism (carriages in the machine from a drill): jerks and / or uneven feed force at least increase the runout of the drill. When drilling with a thin carbide drill, in this case, its removal, breakage and, as a result, irreparable damage to the labor-intensive workpiece are very likely.
In machines and beds for a drill of increased accuracy, a rack and pinion feed mechanism is used (on the left in the figure), which ensures its complete uniformity and, which is especially important for manual feed, exactly proportional return of the tool stop to the hand. This requires a rack and pinion with a well-defined tooth profile - involute. Otherwise, the feed will go jerky even with absolutely smooth pressure on the handle. It is unrealistic to make a pair of rack and pinion with the same involute teeth “on the knee”; picking up a suitable ready-made pair is unlikely, so rack and pinion feeders in homemade drills are extremely rare.
More often they make a simple single-lever feed mechanism, in the center in the figure, but this is far from optimal. At the beginning and at the end of the stroke, when smooth feed and drilling accuracy are especially important, it transfers the emphasis to the hand insufficiently, and excessively in the middle of the stroke, which increases the likelihood of the tool getting stuck in viscous material. From these shortcomings, the feed mechanism with a cranked breaking lever, on the right, is free; in addition, it additionally dampens console vibrations. The ratio of the shoulders of the knee take approx. 1:1.
Table with serving
Drilling thin brittle / sticky parts is more accurate, and the likelihood of drill loss and breakage is less if the spindle is fixed and the table with the part is fed up to it, therefore, in many drills for fine work, the table is equipped with a separate feed mechanism. Due to the inertia of thinking, it is often also made rack and pinion, see for example. Further. But, given that the mass of the table in this case is much larger than such a part, a lever-feed table turns out to be no worse, but it is completely affordable for home production. Its device is shown in Fig.:
There is only one nuance: so that the clip does not lead during assembly, it is tightly inserted into the through hole of the base and welded from below (from the underside). You need to cook with an OMA-2 electrode or thinner with a direct current of 55-60 A with short diametrically opposite tacks (“pokes”). Dimensions of the table for printed circuit boards and jewelry work 60-150 mm in diameter; thickness 6-12 mm. Table shank diameter 12-20 mm; length by the feed stroke +(20-30) mm. The tube for the shank (wall thickness from 1.5 mm) is desirable to be machined or drilled and reamed so that the shank runs smoothly in it without noticeable play. The short lever arm is made approx. equal to the diameter of the table; long - whatever you want.
Console
Let's look again at Fig. with factory settings. The designs of their half-frame carriage consoles are similar; they are quite rational, but designed for automated and robotic production: precision casting and then finishing in place on a CNC machine and laser measurement.
A diagram of an analogue of a console with an amateur-designed semi-frame is given on the left in the figure:
The first thing that attracts attention is that you need to cut 5 parts from a thick steel sheet, trimmed (processed with an end mill) for evenness and parallelism of the sides. Second, the end sections of the inserts filled with dark gray must also be even, clean, and parallel. Those. and here you can not do without a milling machine. Finally, outside the production conditions, it is unrealistic to perform a sliding pairing of the slider and the guide carriage (shown by the arrow) with a backlash of less than 0.1 mm. Let's estimate the ratio of the lever arms - the transverse runout of the drill is more than 0.5 mm.
The design of the console of a drilling machine, which is not very technologically advanced in mass production, but adapted for manufacturing by handicraft methods, is shown on the right in Fig. (the feed mechanism and the drive with the bracket are conventionally not shown). Moreover, in it, the beating of the drill on the inhomogeneities of the material causes the carriage on the column and the guide to skew in opposite directions, and the lateral drift of the tool does not exceed the amount of play in the slip liners. Only one detail is cut out of a thick plate - slider 4. Its precise processing is only necessary in the area of \u200b\u200bclamping the column and installing the guide, and 3 bronze bushings-inserts will precisely fit any turner of average qualification in place, if you give him a column and a carriage guide (they can be machined with normal precision).
So that the entire assembly does not lead to welding, you need to cook as before. case: OMA-2 electrode or thinner, direct current up to 60 A. The seams are also welded alternately with tacks: a “poke” on one, the same on the same far one, located symmetrically. Then the tacking of the seam closest to the first, the same on the diametrically opposite one, etc., etc., until all the seams are welded.
Note: the accuracy of the machine with the described console will be higher if it is assembled not by welding, but by screws with gluing with high-strength glue for metal (cold welding). First, everything is assembled without glue, the clips are aligned for parallelism and the fasteners are tightened. Then the screws are turned out one by one, glue is dripped into the nest and tightly wrapped back. A dreary business, but in this way it is realistic to get a home-made drill with a drill runout of less than 0.02 mm. Unless, of course, the spindle and chuck are centered no worse.
Errors in design
All efforts to make a drilling machine with your own hands will go down the drain if fundamental mistakes were made during its design. The most common of them are shown in Fig.:
Typical mistakes in the manufacture of a drilling machine
Pos. 1 is the console or what? This frame will not withstand the standard load from the tool stop for a long time. There is no need to talk about accuracy. Pos. 2, in addition: it is impossible to make the column of the drilling machine tubular. The pipe holds bending loads, but is powerless against torsional loads, and only intensifies vibrations.
Pos. 3 - to make a drill from an old photographic enlarger, the temptation is great, especially since it was made with at least initial, but optical accuracy. But! The magnifier rod holder is not designed to support the tool. As a result, when drilling hardboard, the drill departure at a feed rate of 20 mm reaches 1.5 mm (!). And the bracket is silumin: this material does not absorb vibrations, gets tired quickly, and the bracket breaks in less than 200 holes even when drilling printed circuit boards.
Pos. 4 - doubling the column in the transverse direction does not give anything. The resistance of the machine to loads will be no higher than on a single pin of the same diameter. Pos. 5, in addition: the rebound spring, which is asymmetrical about the axis of the column, does not dampen vibrations and torsional loads, but enhances them. If so, it was necessary to put 2 identical springs on both racks. And it would be better to make a column, as shown here:
Video: do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill
Pos. 6 - installation of the drive and spindle on one side of the column, and even asymmetrical, does not reduce, but enhances vibrations, because they are transferred to the column in phase, see above. Pos. 7 - where is the fender? Yes, it cannot be here, since the screw feed drive. With a screw, you can accurately set the slider (which is not here at all), which is generally not necessary on a home machine, but in no case should you feed the carriage! This structure will be thrown a little bit with fragments of drills and chips, and the operator's eyes are in close proximity to the danger zone.
Structural analysis
We will consider examples of successful technical solutions, as well as not so significant design flaws, using the examples of several home-made drilling machines.
For a radio amateur, modeller, craftsman-miniaturist and / or jeweler, a simple mini-drilling machine with direct drive may be of interest (the drawings are given in the figure on the right). The design feature is that the drive motor is rigidly attached to the slider, and the feed is only from below by the table. The massive electric motor itself serves as a vibration damper and torsional load absorber, just like an anti-seismic load on high-rise buildings. Thanks to this, all parts, except for the Morse taper with an adapter to the motor shaft, can be performed with normal accuracy: the drilling accuracy is determined by the beating of the motor shaft + the beating of the cone with the adapter + the beating of the drill itself. A table with a rack and pinion feed mechanism can be easily changed to a lever one. It is better to use a collector DC motor: for asynchronous motors with a capacitor start, due to the unevenness of the rotating magnetic field and the sliding of the rotor in it, the rotation of the shaft is less uniform. In addition, the speed of rotation of the collector motor is well regulated even with a simple rheostat, and to adjust the speed of the asynchronous motor, you need to change the frequency of the supply current. The same is for synchronous with a magnetic rotor. The maximum speed of the motor shaft is 800-1500 rpm. Power on the shaft for drilling holes up to 3 mm - 20-30 W; for holes up to 6 mm - 60-80 W.
Note: this machine is not suitable for milling, because motor shaft bearings are not designed for lateral loads and the machine in this mode will quickly lose accuracy.
Here in fig. drawings of a fully functional mini-drilling machine of the same purpose, also with direct drive, are given:
It is equipped with a separate spindle, which allows, firstly, to fill a drill with a maximum diameter of 6 mm into the chuck No. 1a; for 8-10 mm drills, the engine is rather weak. Secondly, to make milling with dental burs. Apparently, the author of the design often uses this particular operation, on the basis of which the motor rotation speed was chosen. Without reducing it, it is necessary to drill on this machine with carbide drills, and to use ordinary drills, supplement the design with a speed controller; in this case, the motor needs at least 60 watts. A conspicuous drawback of this machine - a simple lever feed drive - can be easily eliminated: the feed lever is replaced with a cranked one without modifying the rest of the parts. To improve the accuracy of processing, it is also desirable to put the second rebound spring (pos. 14 in the figure and 9 in the specification; there and still confused) symmetrically to the first, at the other end of the spindle leash. A more serious design flaw is that the rebound springs are not involved in damping vibrations and torsional vibrations. At rotational speeds above 5000 rpm, their influence on accuracy practically does not affect, but already at 1500 rpm, the runout of the drill during the working stroke increases by approx. twice.
Drawings of a drilling mini-machine, conceived as a full-fledged structurally, but with annoying errors, are given in fig; the design of the carriage is similar to the console in the previous. designs.
Thanks to the installation of a strong rebound spring in the right place, it was possible to firmly fix the spindle in the carriage, which at first glance reduced the number of parts that require increased precision. But only when feeding from below by a table, and even then, the fixation of the slider 5 and the carriage 4 with pairs of screws 17 and 16, respectively. unreliable and spoils the column; it would be better to use screw clamps. And when the released carriage is fed by the lever, only its joints prevent the carriage from turning. A play of any of the hinges of the lever of 0.02 mm, taking into account its ratio with the length of the knee shoulders, will give a lateral drift of the drill by 2 mm or more, which can only be parried by hand. In this machine, the console with an additional carriage guide, described above, would be most appropriate; in this case, it would be quite possible to achieve a runout of the tool due to backlashes in the interfaces of the parts of the machine itself no more than 0.02-0.03 mm.
On this fig. - drawings of a bed for a drilling machine from a drill with a semi-frame carriage, "almost like a real one."
Everything is good in it, and something is even better than the "firm": plates 5, which prevent the lateral displacement of the carriage, perfectly "catch" and suppress the vibrations of the instrument in their very bud. There is only one question: how to do all this if a machine park worthy of a small machine-building plant does not doze in the garage (shed) in anticipation of the master's hand? It is easier to make a drilling machine from a drill as shown in the video:
Video: homemade stand-machine for a drill
Involuntarily, an old Soviet joke comes to mind:
“Dear Comrade Leonid Ilyich honored a certain industrial enterprise with his visit. They are walking through the workshop, suddenly the general secretary stops the retinue with a wave of his hand, one approaches the worker at the machine:
- Comrade turner ...
- Yes, Petrovich, I ...
- Good. Comrade turner Petrovich, tell me frankly - do you drink vodka?
- But how! We use!
- And if a bottle costs 10 rubles, will you still drink?
- Will.
- And 25?
- Will.
- And 50?
- Will.
- And 100?
- I will anyway.
- Petrovich, ... but where can I get so much money for my salary ?!
- Gee ... what does the loot have to do with it ... this little wick (shows) how it cost a half liter, and it will cost.”
Who is happy, who is alas, but those Petrovichs, general secretaries and industrial relations are no more. And it will not be - they turned out to be completely ineffective.
About steering drills
A fairly popular request on this topic is also "drilling machine from the steering rack of a car." It seems to be a ready-made converter of rotational motion into a linear one, and even with a geoid transfer characteristic: in order to “peck” a little with a drill, you do not need to “catch microns” with your hand. You just need to adapt the steering wheel to the rail, make a drill holder (see the figure on the right), and you're done, see video.
» From the material presented by the author, you will learn how you can independently make a budget drilling machine from a conventional electric drill.
Every craftsman would like to have such a machine in his household, because in comparison with factory analogues it will cost ten times cheaper, and if all spare parts and components are available, then it is generally free.
The author of this machine is Igor Stasyuk, for which many thanks to him, he shared step-by-step photographs of the assembly of the machine with the people. The design is quite interesting and at the same time simple. Corners and 4 legs are welded onto the base from a 3 mm metal sheet, a 500 mm rod from a professional square-section pipe is welded onto this plate, the slider is made of 2 corners welded into the pipe and put on the lifting column with a gap so that the slider can move up the column and down. The lifting mechanism is driven by a cable stretched from the top point to the bottom, and on the slider the cable makes several turns.
And so, let's take a closer look at what exactly the author needed to assemble the machine? As well as the whole step-by-step process.
materials
1. sheet metal 3mm
2. armature
3. corner
4. cable
5. drill
6. workpiece vise
7. bolts, nuts, washers, engravers
8. drill clamp
9. paint
10.professional square pipe
11. drill
Tools
1. welding machine
2. grinder (UShM)
3. drill
4. file
5. vise
6. clamp
7. caliper
8. ruler
9. corner
10th level
11. sandpaper
12. brush
13. hacksaw
14. emery
The process of creating a drilling machine from a drill.
And so, first of all, the author makes the base of the machine from 3 mm sheet metal, cuts the workpiece with a grinder (angle grinder) And welds 2 corners and 4 legs from a steel bar or reinforcement into the lower part. The length of the legs should be the same so that there is no skew of the bed.
Welded corners and legs.
Making a slider! 2 corners are taken and applied to a square-section professional pipe that will serve as a lifting column and pulled together with a clamp.
At the edges, it is seized by welding in order to simply bait for now, and only then specifically boil a normal seam.
This is how the preparation turned out.
The lifting column is made of a professional square pipe 500 mm long.
A bracket with a movable shaft is welded onto the body of the slider, on which the turns of the cable will be made.
A thread is cut into the drilled hole.
Handles of the lifting mechanism are made of fittings.
On the shaft there is such a head, which will be the basis for the handles.
And so, 3 handles are welded for the convenience of raising and lowering the drill through the mechanism.
Installed on a lifting column.
At the end of the cable, such a loop is made.
I hope the principle of lifting is clear and without explanation)
A square pipe is welded onto the corner.
Here is actually such a mount for an electric drill turned out.
Then a drill is installed and secured with a clamp of bolts and nuts.
Now let's go back to the lifting mechanism.
A nut is welded into the upper part of the lifting column and a bolt is screwed into it, a cable is fixed to the bolt itself, and when the bolt is tightened and unscrewed, the cable is tensioned to the optimum norm.
It is advisable to pre-lubricate the moving parts with grease or lithol.
These small vices can be purchased at the hardware store in the tools section.
All parts were sanded by the master with sandpaper, and then painted.
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