I want to weld a workbench for the garage. Locksmith, as in a workshop.
To cook on it, and to sharpen, and to fasten a vice, and to put tools in drawers.
I managed to visualize my intentions. I spent a long time going through different layout options and estimating the dimensions. I think I have found the best option for myself.
Blue indicates metal parts, yellow indicates wooden parts.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, surrounded by a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm sheet of metal. The workbench frame will be welded from profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffening ribs will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm thick boards. Guides for attaching the side panels will be made from a 40x4 strip. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and installed on powerful skids.
To purchase metal, we agreed with Dikiy to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to drag it out over the whole day, we went to the metal depot.
The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a torn army pea coat, who looked like he was suffering from a hangover, was taking out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut pieces of rolled metal splashed into a slush puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.
Don’t call me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed the grimy, rusty pieces of freshly purchased metal with water and wiped them dry. You still need to clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with.
On that harsh January morning the following were purchased:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
A total of 121 kilograms of metal worth 4,000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.
Cutting the main frame parts took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.
Now you can calmly put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick, stinking, sticky quagmire of your daily hopeless routine.
Welded brackets for the tool panel above the workbench.
And the base for the homemade table top was welded.
The cross members of the base for the table top are welded flush with the corner. For this purpose, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here is a small drawing of what it looks like:
In the meantime, I welded the instrument panel brackets.
Reinforced loaded joints with 4mm strip overlays.
I welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal, and look better.
The brackets provide additional rigidity to the entire structure.
I want to cover the tabletop with a 4mm or 5mm sheet of metal. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a sheet 2200x750.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then there will be two good pieces left (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the required sizes.
If such pieces will be useful to someone, then let’s cooperate, otherwise it’s a little expensive for one.
I made boxes from 15mm plywood. I assembled it with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It turned out solid, just the way I like it.
The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m
The slides were secured by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting in food processor 3 liter V8 car engine. It was just that TIG was too lazy to uncover. Moreover, it holds securely anyway.
Now I'm thinking about different options facades.
This completes the welding stage. There's carpentry and painting ahead. Some other little things like plumbing and electrical wiring.
Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wow, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, handing over a can of rust paint with metal chips for 500 rubles.
Covered the tabletop edged board 150x40. I fastened the boards to the frame with 4.0x35 self-tapping screws. In total I used 60 self-tapping screws.
I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay more tightly.
He talked about protecting wood from fire. Impregnated wood cannot support combustion on its own.
When impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I fire-retardant efficiency - the highest.
Of course, this does not allow you to weld metal directly on the surface of the workbench. The boards will still char if they don’t catch fire. To organize a welding station, I plan to weld a removable grill that will reliably protect the surface of the tabletop from heat.
After drying, I will cover the tabletop with an already prepared 4mm sheet of metal.
Covered the tabletop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The leaf was attracted to wooden base rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.
I used 10mm plywood shields to cover the extra openings in the workbench frame.
The photo shows a paint shop.
Registered permanent residents on the tabletop - grinder and a vice. They get lost on a hefty tabletop.
1) What is the best way to cover the bare metal on the countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter that will create a durable protective film and which is easy to update if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a durable chair with adjustable height?
P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ Following the links you can find the manufacturing process of everything presented.
Still, I took the plunge and coated the countertop with rust converter. Apply a thin, even layer.
While the tabletop was drying, I finished with the shelves in the left drawer
Well, in general, greasing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if it was covered with varnish. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because... the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the converter and dries again, hiding all old damage.
From the large one, all that remains is to make a panel for tools and place fasteners for everything, everything, everything on it.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or a solid one furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest exchanging it for a 4mm sheet of metal 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left over from the countertop).
Well, actually, that’s why...
Test passed
Class! No more having to live with hand power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - all in one place and at hand.
Mounted the tool panel. Solid, made of 21 mm plywood.
4 corners 50x50x4 plus 21 mm plywood plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals hanging tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking anything
I made the fronts for the drawers from the remains of 21-gauge plywood.
That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. Some things came out a bit crooked in places, but I'm very pleased with the result.
The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. The tabletop area is 1.65 square meters, the toolbar area is 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right cabinets is almost the same cubic meter. The special feature of the workbench is that you can sit at it while working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm sheet of metal is not afraid mechanical damage. Spacious shelves, drawers and panels allow me to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient, quick access to them.
This is the homemade workbench of your dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will also work on it.
P.S. And after a little modification you will get an excellent makeup table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/
Well, to put the finishing touches on the project, a few more photos.
The screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (if you have a screwdriver, of course).
Over time, I’ll add wrenches, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a holder for paper towels, and additional lighting. Luckily there are two square meters there is room to turn around. I made an awesome thing. Satisfied like an elephant.
Firstly, the small vice could not withstand the load and burst.
Instead, a more powerful vice is installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of manufacture. So they are 56 years old? I hope they last me as long. In general, a good vice is the pride of a master.
The photo shows that the tabletop does not protrude much beyond the dimensions of the table. Therefore, when attaching a vice to bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. That's what I intended. The vice and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop using anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds up to death.
Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It was better to do them smaller size. I will come up with some kind of organizers inside them.
Otherwise it turned out great. All the tools are in one place, visible and always ready. There is also room to spread out on the large tabletop.
You can purchase some things from this blog in our VKontakte group:
Welcome to our page "Carpentry workbenches and tables for carpentry work: options and design"!
This is a 2019 update to the review photo gallery of Arsenal Masters specialists. We have collected and decided to show a variety of ideas and options for implementing workbenches for carpenters, home-made designs or manufactured ones.
* This photo review was created for informational purposes and is not a product, you can print this page independently and free of charge.
1. Workbench options:
2. :
3.
.
So let's consider Options for carpentry workbenches:
This option is compact, mobile and lightweight, and therefore ideal for working at almost any table. The workbench can be secured with ordinary clamps for greater stability.
Factory made:
And homemade desktop workbenches:
European type tabletop workbench:
Such a workbench can be installed or built even into a window sill:
There are many options for tabletop workbenches, both in terms of materials and design:
In our online store you can purchasesize 725 by 260 mm domestic manufacturer"Petrograd":
Technology self-made You can see such a workbench in the video:
And this is what a desktop workbench for jewelry work with a stand for working with a hand jigsaw might look like:
Another version of a serial portable workbench of the European type:
and its homemade analogues:
With a vice from and screw wooden vice:
Extended versions of the desktop workbench:
The desktop workbench option, which is a ready-made tabletop, is already half a step to a full-fledged stationary workbench:
Therefore, their workbenches are not table-top, but floor-mounted. In our opinion, this is essentially a workbench board.
In our assortment you can also choose this type:
The idea of a desktop floor workbench (workbench board) was expanded by FESTOOL by creating(you can buy from the link):
In this compact product, Festool combines both a mini workbench and a storage box. Moreover, it is convenient to work not only with rectangular elements, but also with round ones due to the triangular groove in the upper surface.
Recently, quite a few homemade copies of it have appeared on the Internet:
Folding mobile (portable) workbenches:
Surprisingly, most industrially produced workbenches were made based on samples from the best DIYers.
On this moment their diversity gives the most ample opportunities both for the home craftsman and for the Craftsman working on site.
Looking for ideas from DIYers, manufacturers began to offer completely unusual solutions.
We recommend that you pay attention to (can be purchased via the link).
Although these are more likely goats with a vice:
In our opinion, one of the best solutions for a mobile and at the same time full-fledged carpentry workbench is
Its popularity is due to the fact that the manufacturer combined the convenience of joinery solutions (with fastening stops and clamps on the table top in mounting holes) with a solution that came from the machine tool industry, where almost any equipment is installed on aluminum profiles with a T-shaped groove.
And here FESTOOL was no exception and repeated good decision, but of course with expanded capabilities -
Mobile workbench FESTOOL MW 1000 complete with table TSB/1-MW 1000:
A good solution for realizing the idea of a multifunctional homemade workbench is the use of universal machine tools. aluminum profiles(for example, on the basis):
We also present- This:
Workbench;
goats;
assembly table integrated according to the “all in one” principle
.
And we will start with a classic wooden workbench, of which, depending on the country of origin and the desire of the Master, there are now quite a few:
Below are some photos from the Review , We recommend this to everyone who is passionate about carpentry:
for this workbench there is .
Table with P
Stationary versions of the festival idea Festool table MFT 3
2. Structural design of workbenches :
Structurally, workbenches differ in the design of the main functional elements: vice, tabletop, base (underbench). They may also differ in materials of manufacture (wood, metal).
Let's consider options for these functional elements.
Look In our catalog, we list what types of vices there are:
Front vice: vertical and horizontal, single screw and double screw, removable and stationary
Side vise: L-shaped box-shaped, o bottom screw, in carved.
They may differ in design. The vise screw can be either metal or wood. And the lower support can move along guides on bearings, along a metal guide, using parallelogram and chain mechanisms.
3D diagram of the most common design of a vertical vice with a roller lower support and discrete fixation:
Stationary o bottom screw vice:
Can
Homemade
And(can be purchased via the link)
Made from two single-screw vices or as the previous version with chain drive
Chain mechanism of one-handed double-screw vice:
Lateral in carvedsingle screw vice
VERITAS companies can
Side single screw t
claims based on pipe clamps:
L-shaped side single screw t claims:
with regular screw
with a homemade wooden screw
:
Table top with glued
Cutting workbench with
Classic work surface with side tray
The main object in a workshop or garage, around which the rest of the work area is arranged, is the workbench. Most often, they organize a workbench with their own hands from wood or other available materials. Purchase finished product It won't be cheap, so it's better to make it yourself. This way you can not only save money, but also organize your garage table in strict accordance with your needs for placement and functionality.
Purpose of the workbench
A workbench is a table that is designed for work on the manufacture and installation of products made of metal, wood and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with shelves and drawers for storing accessories and tools, and equipment for fastening workpieces. Based on the intended purpose of the workplace, a distinction is made between metalworking and carpentry workbenches for working with metal and wood, respectively.
Work tables for garages and workshops can be either multi-seat or single-seat. Workbenches that are designed for one workplace, usually have a width of 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The parameters of multi-seat locksmith tables grow in accordance with the number of craftsmen working at them. The gap between the working surface and the floor is usually 0.8−0.9 m, but there are also designs with adjustable height.
The workbench designs themselves are most often made of wood or metal, and their countertops are covered with sheets of materials such as:
- plywood;
- hardboard;
- galvanized sheet;
- boards, etc.
Equipment manufacturing instructions
It doesn’t matter what it is made of, the main thing is that it has the necessary functionality, is reliable and durable. Its designs do not require the use of expensive equipment or the use of any scarce parts, and during the installation process you can get by with minimal plumbing and carpentry skills.
Wooden workplace
Creating a carpentry workbench with your own hands contains a lot of advantages, which consist in the fact that you can arrange in advance the locations of the vice and other devices, think about the location and number of drawers, etc.
For self-production workbench You will need to prepare the following tools:
When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention to the integrity of the wooden parts - they should not have knots or cracks. To get started, you will need:
- Bars for the main legs 100 by 100 mm.
- 2 plywood sheets at least 20 mm thick (OSB can be used). One sheet will go on the bottom shelf, and the other on the table top.
- The boards are 50 by 150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted.
- Bolts (it is preferable to use furniture bolts with a square part - they effectively prevent their mobility in wooden parts).
- Nuts and washers.
- Self-tapping screws.
To facilitate assembly and avoid errors when cutting material, it is advisable to make drawings of the future workbench and indicate on them all the parameters of each part.
Sequence of work
First of all, you need to make the upper frame of the underframe. In accordance with the drawing, boards of the required length are sawn off.
Using self-tapping screws, short and long parts are attached in such a way as to create a frame rectangular shape. Then by long side measure the distance to its middle and install a spacer bar in a deliberate place. As such, the same board 50 by 150 mm is used, it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws at both ends.
The support legs for the workbench are made of six bars of the same size. To fasten them to the upper frame, long bolts with washers and nuts are used. To install the support, place the block in the corner of the frame and drill 2 through holes through the side board and the leg. After this, the connections are tightened using nuts and bolts.
To achieve the required structural rigidity, lower boards are installed. By the way, the same the parts will also form the base of the lower shelf. For this purpose, 4 are sawn off in full accordance with the drawings. wooden parts, the cross-section of which is 150 mm.
In order to secure the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the end of each support. At the measured height, one part is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and on the front side, the board is attached between the side and middle support on the side in which the additional shelf will be installed.
Several short boards are mounted at the same height along the side edges of the workbench.
With help electric jigsaw or hacksaws, elements for the table top are cut from plywood or OSB sheets. It will be fixed flush to the upper area of the desktop with self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is placed on top of the plywood, which can be removed as it wears out. special effort replace with a new one. To mount the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the outer to middle legs. The material is cut to this size using a hacksaw or jigsaw, and cutouts are created in its corners for support legs. Attaching the sheet to the lower base is carried out in the same way as installing a table top.
To achieve stability of the frame structure, a carpenter's square must be used when installing and securing the supports when assembling the workbench frame. After installation of the structure bubble level measure accuracy the horizontality of its location. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces of thin plywood under the legs.
Upon completion of assembly, the workbench is impregnated with a protective special composition, and also painted or varnished.
Making an outdoor workbench for working outdoors - in a country house or in the courtyard of a private house - is, in general, no different. The only thing worth considering is portability and foldability. A folding workbench may be appropriate if there is not enough space for technical premises.
However, given the specifics of outdoor placement, it is necessary to take care in advance about the stability of the place where the workbench is placed, as well as its sufficient protection from weather conditions: you will need to place it under a canopy and cover the structure itself with special protective compounds.
1. Glue together the front beam from several layers A and cut to final size (Fig. 1 And 1a). Then mill grooves 19 mm wide and 41 mm deep into it (Fig. 1a, photo A And IN).
Quick tip! Do not glue the parts of the milling jig-template, but fasten them only with screws. The template will again be needed to make grooves in the rear vise block, which is wider than the front cover beam.
From a couple of scraps of thick board and 12mm thick material, assemble a simple template for routing grooves at a 2° angle, which will become holes for the bench stops.
When routing the grooves in the front beam using a 12mm helical router bit and a 19mm coping sleeve, remove material a little at a time, gradually increasing the depth.
2. Cut out the trim IN and glue it to the front beam, aligning the right ends of the parts. Carefully remove any squeezed out excess glue.
3. Using the template that is usually supplied with the front vise, mark and drill holes for the rods (photo C, Fig. 1).
Position the mounting template so that the vise holes do not intersect the bench stop holes in the A/B front rail. Mark the centers of the holes with an awl.
Note. This project uses front and rear vicesLee Valley. They differ good quality manufacturing, smooth operation and come with detailed instructions on installation.
4. Now make the cover shield WITH, lower pads for front D and rear E vice, spacer F and rear beam G. Glue the trims, rear rail, spacer and front rail to the cover (Fig. 1).
5. Make the left and right tips N, I (Fig. 2). Form 36mm wide by 57mm deep dowels along one edge of the ends and drill 12mm holes.
Quick tip! To quickly make clean and tidy rabbets, remove most material with a groove disc, and then clean the sides and bottom using a router table.
6. Mill the ends of the lid A-G folds on both sides 57 mm wide and 36 mm deep (photoD), to form ridges that are inserted into the tongues of the tips N, I.
Use the tip as a guide to rout the folds on the lid. Be careful not to touch the front trim B with the cutter.
7. Place the left tip on the comb N, pushing it towards the front pad IN. Right tip I align with the front edge of the shield WITH. Mark the centers of the 12mm holes (photo E). Remove the tips and use an awl to mark other centers, moving them 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the combs (photoF). Draw parallel lines, retreating 6 mm on both sides from each mark left by the awl, so that the distance between the lines is 12 mm.
Use the point of a 12mm drill bit to transfer the centers of the holes in the H, I tips to the ridges of the cover.
Move the centers of the holes 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the comb so that, when driving in the dowels, the tip and the cap are tightened more tightly.
Using a thin round rasp, work all the holes except the first one. Do not go beyond the parallel lines so that the parts fit together tightly.
8. Drill 12mm holes according to the markings. Then, starting with the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it by 2 mm in both directions, without going beyond the parallel lines, to create an oval 16 mm long. Do the same with the other holes, increasing the length of each next one by 1.5 mm in both directions (photoG, rice. 2). This will allow the lid to change its width with seasonal fluctuations in humidity. At the right tip I make a 57x165mm cutout flush with the bottom of the spacer F and the end of the bottom pad E.
9. Put on the tips N, I onto the ridges and secure with 12mm hardwood dowels, driving them into the holes without using glue. Saw off the protruding ends of the dowels flush with the top and bottom edges of the tips.
Quick tip! To make it easier to install the tips, take dowels of increased length and make narrowings at their ends.
Add a vise
1. From scraps, assemble a frame that will limit the area of movement of the router when making a recess in the bottom pad D for front vice (photo N). Mark the recess so that it is located at a distance of 70 mm from the front edge of the cover, and its middle coincides with the center big hole for the vice screw.
Use a 12mm helix bit to select a 57x305x406mm recess for the vise mechanism. Rearrange the cuttings supporting the router as necessary.
Separate the back plate to insert the vise mechanism into place. Then install it again and the operation is complete.
2. Cut out the block J for the movable jaw of the front vice. Drill holes in the block, marking them according to the template you used earlier, positioning it so that the left end of the block is aligned with the left edge of the lid.
3. Mill along the ends of the movable jaw J fillet with a shoulder and attach the front vise to the cover, following the instructions (photo I). Reinstall the standard handle-lever.
4. Cut the block to the specified dimensions TO for rear vise. Rework the milling jig you used before and form grooves 19 mm wide and 41 mm deep at an angle in the block (Fig. 3 And 3a).
5. Saw out the trim L for rear vise. Drill into the block TO 10mm through holes with 25mm counterbores (Fig. 3 And Behind). Pressing the trim against the block with clamps, mark the centers of the holes on it using a 10 mm drill through the holes in the block. Then drill 16mm diameter holes at the marked points. Note. Our method is slightly different from that described in the instructions and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included with the vice. By doing this, we hid the bolt heads under the plugs rather than leaving them in plain sight.
6. Glue the overlay L to the block K (photoJ) and carefully remove any squeezed out adhesive from the bench stop holes.
Precisely align the holes of block K with the holes of the cover L. To avoid spending a lot of time removing excess glue, apply it evenly in a thin layer.
7. Attach the assembled block K/L together with the rear vice mechanism into place, following the instructions. Close the bolt heads with plugs and install the standard lever handle.
Make bench stops
1. Cut out 17 stops according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials” M and 17 springs N. We chose cherry wood for the stops, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the parts, and its color contrasts well with the white oak wood from which the workbench lid is made. Dense and elastic wood, such as maple, is suitable for springs.
2. To give the stops the required shape, make copies of the template, enlarging them 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops fit into the holes and adjust them if necessary. They should be removed and recessed without much effort and still remain at the desired height. To learn more about them, read the article “Bench Stops” published in this issue of the magazine.
Let's go to the bottom
Note. Before you start making, measure and write down the dimensions of the recess on the underside of the lid. The top of the cabinet base should fit tightly into this recess. If it cannot be inserted, you will need to resize it to fit the recess or widen the edges of the recess for final assembly.
1. Cut out the shelves according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials” ABOUT, partitions R and edge trims Q, R. Glue trims to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4). Then glue the shelves O/Q to the partitions P/R and additionally secure with screws.
2. Cutting out the plinth boards S and kings T, glue them to the O-R partition shelf assembly.
3. From 19mm plywood lined with cherry veneer, cut out the side and back walls U, V. Glue it in place first side walls, securing with additional screws, then add the back wall, using only glue to attach it.
4. Note. Check the dimensions of the assembled frame before cutting the crossbars, posts, and trims to ensure that the lengths listed in the Bill of Materials are correct for your project. We advise you to cut out the detailsW— GG with a small allowance in length, and then adjust them in place.
Cut out the top and bottom rails W, X, as well as racks Y (Fig. 5). Glue the top and bottom rails to the base at the front, then add the posts.
5. Now cut out the back crossbars Z, AA, racks BB, middlemen SS and side bars DD, EE. Glue the bottom rear crossbar AA and mullions to the rear wall V (photo K). Next, glue the rear top rail and posts into place, then the side bottom rails and mullions to the side walls, and finally the top side rails and posts.
Use a couple of thick, straight-edged pieces of wood to press the CC mullions tighter against the back wall.
6. At the corners of the body, mill 10 mm chamfers ending at the joints of the crossbars with the racks (Fig. 6).
Before connecting the base boards, you need to saw off the bevels on the slats glued on top. After this, you can begin milling the fillets.
7. Cut the side, front and back plinth boards from 19mm cherry boards FF, GG specified length with an allowance of about 3 mm in width. Then saw off a 19x19mm strip from the top edge of each plinth board and mark the pieces so you can put them in place later. Finally, make the connections " dovetail" to fasten the plinth boards (Fig. 6a).Note. If instead of dovetail spikes you decide to make simple connections To be sure, cut out the base boards to the specified width (without allowance) and do not saw off the lath from them on top.
8. Saw miter bevels only on the slats for the side plinth boards, without shortening them. Glue each of them to the corresponding part from which it was sawn. Then glue the slats without the bevels to the front and back plinth boards. Bevel just the top of the front and rear plinth boards so that they meet tightly with the side plinth boards. The bevel edge should be close to the marking line, and precise matching of parts can be achieved by adjustment, removing material little by little (photoL). Then route a 19mm fillet with a 3mm offset along the top edge of all the plinth boards.
9. Glue the plinth boards to the base. You may need to use screws or nails to attach them if you have beveled the ends instead of dovetails.
Add doors
1. Cut out the crossbars NN, racks II and panels JJ specified sizes (Fig. 7).
2. Make tongues 6mm wide and 12mm deep along the center of the inner edges of all posts and crossbars. Then form tenons 6mm thick and 12mm long at the ends of the crossbars.
3. Assemble the doors by gluing the posts, crossbars and panels together. Once the glue has dried, check how the doors fit into the base opening and adjust them if necessary. Then mill 5x5 mm folds on the top and bottom edges of the doors with inside, as well as 10x5 mm folds on racks where there are no hinges. These folds leave enough space between the doors and the cabinet to install magnetic latches.
Attach the doors to the cabinet using overhead hinges and reinstall the magnetic latches.
Lower the lid onto the base
1. Invite three strong friends to help lift the heavy workbench cover and place it on the base. There is no need to fix it - thanks to its massiveness and precise fit, it is well held in place.
2. Once you've installed your new workbench in your workshop, get started on your next project right away and you'll be able to enjoy your time in the workshop even more!
Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have strived to arrange the workplace as comfortably as possible and, to put it simply, modern language, ergonomic, which was considered the key to not only fast and efficient work, but also safety. In this regard, premises intended for repair and handmade, were filled with all kinds of tables, shelves and drawers, the original material for the manufacture of which was wood. Over time, cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not correspond to the specified characteristics, and sometimes cost the same as industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and we'll tell you how to do it wooden workbench with your own hands.
Main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench
Regardless of its design features, a workbench is a work table, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and intended for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, and it is practiced to process products as manually, and with the use of power tools - drills and electric planes. A typical layout of a standard woodworking bench consists of the following elements:
- The working surface for which it is used solid board, the thickness of which is at least 60 mm. To make the lid, experts advise giving preference to hard wood, such as oak or beech, using which you will not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, which is due to the high wear resistance of the material.
- A vice designed for securing workpieces. They are installed on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
- Bench supports are designed to increase the stability of the overall structure, which are connected by longitudinal strips. To make them, it is advisable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
- In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers intended for tools and any other work accessories.
Carpentry workbench: types of design
When developing a workbench project, it is important to take it into account design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be presented as a mobile structure. If you prefer a mobile design, the optimal solution would be to lighten it due to the material used, which should be less thick. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible tabletop, as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, three types of workbenches are distinguished:
- Mobile workbench designed for small repair work and manipulations with wood blanks;
- A stationary workbench used for processing massive wood pieces and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but is “tied” to one place;
- A collapsible or “transformable workbench” is convenient due to its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can find out how to make a retractable workbench in specialized guides.
Carpentry or metal workbench: differences
In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and metalworking workbenches. Since creation mechanic's workbench is associated with a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.
Dimensions and location of the workbench
In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about electrical outlets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in work area, it is preferable to include corrugated pipe or box
Before starting to build a workbench, experts recommend deciding on its final height. To do this, you need to lower your arms down, after which your palms are parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and your palms is the very height of the desktop that is most convenient for you. Since homemade workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the length of the table is 1.5 m and the width is 0.8 m.
How to make a workbench video
How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials
The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the entire work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed for its manufacture. According to experts, to build a workbench optimal material there will be planed timber, which is suitable for making a frame frame and legs.
Ideal dimensions of planed timber:
- for legs - 100x70 mm;
- for jumpers - 100x50 mm;
For the tabletop, it is better to choose boards 5 cm thick, or solid canvas, such as old wooden door or chipboard characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference hard rocks woods such as oak, maple and beech.
How to make a workbench table? Sequencing
Making a workbench includes several stages, the most fundamental of which are:
- Base assembly;
- Installation of countertops;
- Installing equipment on a workbench.
Base assembly
Foundation like structural element workbench, represents wooden frame, fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to install a horizontal jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a frame. Both the lintels and the drawer are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the beams are secured using a tongue-and-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and tenons, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.
If you're building a permanent workbench, one or more pieces of the frame can be attached to the wall, adding even more strength to the final structure.
Making a countertop and installing it
- When thinking through the stages of making a tabletop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of previously specified dimensions is knocked together, for fastening which they use long nails, driven in from the inside of the boards. The boards used are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from getting into the existing cracks. For the installation of the countertop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. Horizontally oriented slats, which are needed for sliding the drawers, are attached to these jumpers using self-tapping screws.
- The tabletop is attached to the base with bolts. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the tabletop for bolts, the heads of which are recessed into the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the tabletop. In order to avoid injury from falling wood chips during subsequent work, the tabletop is sanded several times and coated with drying oil.
Equipment installation
- TO installed countertop attach a vice, for installation of which recesses should be provided in the end of the tabletop. In the place where the vice is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the tabletop. When installing a vice, first lay it down, mark where it will be attached, and then secure it with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be positioned on the edge, which will cause gravity to shift as you work.
- In addition to the vice, the classic equipment for the workbench are wooden clamps and a stationary drill. high power, certain types of turning equipment, milling element. In a dacha setting, it will also be useful to install an angle grinder and a circular saw. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to think through all the details of convenience and safety, and also check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment operates from electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of simultaneously connected equipment, as well as correctly carry out the connection itself.
How to design and make a universal workbench?
This article did not examine in detail the process of making a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench due to the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider an option that involves combining metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in conditions country houses and plots.
To do this, make the same workbench as given in the instructions, but slightly increase the working surface area. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the tabletop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is secured with self-tapping screws. IN ideal cover not only top part countertops, but also its end elements.
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