Today I have absolutely small material. I continue to collect materials on epoxy resins in one place and it is time to talk about their coloring. There are several ways. The simplest and most logical is, of course, the acquisition of special dyes.
I occasionally buy bubbles different colors. I can suggest a couple of places: hobbymagic.ru and master-fimo.ru. And dyes can be purchased very diverse: transparent, mother-of-pearl, metallic, neon, etc. Usually add a small amount of dye to the resin, mix. Then the hardener is added and all components are finally mixed.
The maximum amount of dye added is sometimes specified, and sometimes not. As a rule, such a dye is a concentrated pigment diluted in the “A” component of the epoxy resin. So when you add it to a resin, you are essentially mixing one resin with another, and the proportions aren't that important. Everything is determined by the shade that you want to get. Proportions are important when adding component "B" (hardener).
And one more thing: if you buy dyes, then do not forget about the basics of mixing colors. The point is that if you decide to buy red and yellow dyes, then it makes no sense to take orange. It is enough to drop a drop or two of red into yellow and you have orange. Blue and yellow make green, blue and red make purple, and so on.
I think it will not be difficult to find information on mixing colors. And in the end you only need three primary colors (blue, red and yellow), from which you can get a lot of derivative colors.
The use of the described dyes has, perhaps, only a couple of disadvantages: price and availability. Even if the first one is not very scary (the bubbles are small, but they last for a long time), then the question of accessibility remains. Not all colors you need can be found in ready-made, i.e. either they will have to be mixed, or replaced with something else.
That's what we'll talk about. On the Internet you can find a lot of tips on how to paint epoxy resins. Alcohol inks, inks for ballpoint and gel pens, oil paints, toners for laser printers, dry pigment dyes, powders, stains on alcohol based. There is even greenery from the pharmacy on this list. The main condition is that the paint should not contain water, because. Resin is not friendly with water.
I'm going to experiment today on what's easiest to get. On the way home from work I visit a stationery store, I'm interested in gel pens. Rummaging through the shelves, I settled on two colors that I liked: green and purple metallics.
By the way, while I was digging in the shelves with writers and drawings, I read on one of the packages with gel pens that they use ink on oil based(I immediately remembered oil paints from the list).
When I got home, I started taking apart the handles. This is done very simply: it is enough to remove the writing knot with scissors or pliers and hold the rod over the cup in which you will knead the resin. Gel ink flows out of the refill very easily. I remembered how I tried to blow ink out of a ballpoint pen, then my cheeks almost burst. For accuracy, I decided to weigh everything: I dropped about half a gram of ink of both colors into two cups.
Then I added component "A" of epoxy resin to 10 grams.
And then he mixed the ink with the "A" component. The color of the ink is slightly faded. But this is quite understandable: after all, they have become less concentrated.
Now it's the turn of component "B" (hardener). Fortunately, the scales with the “TARE” button allow you to reset the indicator readings. It’s very convenient, because we have a glass, ink, resin and a stick, which everything interfered with.
I pour 5 grams of hardener (my hand trembled a little, I poured an extra gram, it's not scary).
It remains to mix everything completely and let it stand for a bit so that excess air bubbles come to the surface. In the meantime, I prepared a couple of molds. Since this is an experiment, I chose both matte (roses and button center) moldings and glossy ones (button rim and squares).
After a day, we take out remarkably frozen gizmos and evaluate the result. Personally, he quite suited me: affordable, budget and quite nice. Well, it's true, the button in this form resembles just a plastic one, but that's another story.
I'll try something else next time...
If you have questions about this part, feel free to ask them in the comments to the material.
Slide show:
» What is EPOXYCON, or how to paint epoxy resin
EPOXY RESIN. MIX, COLOR, FILL
SPECIAL FOR website
Hi all! My name is Yulianna Volkova, I am a jewelry designer and maker.
In this master class, I want to tell you what an amazing material it is - epoxy resin, and how many different styles and shapes of jewelry can be made from it! But first, we'll look at what this outlandish substance is and how to manage it.
Firstly, when working with epoxy, I recommend that you follow some safety measures:
1. Work in a well ventilated area
2. Wear gloves
3. Use for mixing components only disposable tableware to be thrown away after use.
4. If you intend to often work with epoxy, you should use a respirator.
Once cured, epoxy is completely non-toxic, unless eaten, of course.
Epoxy resin itself consists of two components that must be mixed in strict proportions indicated on the package. Mixing instructions are always included, follow them carefully.
For mixing, I use a disposable transparent cup, a disposable coffee spoon (you can use a wooden ice cream stick) and a couple of syringes of various sizes. Each syringe should only be used for the same component. I do not throw them away, but store them in a zip bag in a box along with epoxy.
Now let's get down to the fun part - the process of creating the jewelry itself!
INGREDIENTS
We will need the following materials:
Pictures suitable in size for our blanks and printed on a laser printer or on professional photo paper (this is important, I'll explain why later).
STEP 1
First, mix component A and B in the proportions indicated on the package, typing into each syringe right amount component A and B. I mixed in double volume. That is, not 4:1, but 8:2.
STEP 2
It is better not to knead too large portions at once, otherwise it will be difficult to bring it to a homogeneous state, and it is important for us that both components mix very well with each other.
To do this, I heat some water (up to about 70 degrees), do not boil!
Then I take a deep dish and pour this water into it. There, very carefully, I immerse a glass with already mixed components and heat the epoxy in this water bath for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally. As a result of this procedure, bubbles come out that we do not need in the process of work, and the mass becomes more homogeneous. Be careful not to get water into the epoxy cup, otherwise the mixture can be thrown away - it will lose its transparency!
STEP 3
Then I pour the resulting amount of the mixture into three cups (a transparent mixture should remain, and in the other two cups we will add epoxycone. For the master class, I chose Epoxycone yellow and blue sparkling shimmering.
STEP 4
To give the necessary color to component A of the adhesive compound, a concentrate of organic dyes (fluorescent or pearlescent pigments) EPOXICON is added so that the ratio of the total mass of the colored mixture to the mass of component B remains 80:20.
STEP 5
Pearlescent dye must be mixed before adding to the bulk. You can do this with a knitting needle or a wooden stick.
Now the cups with epoxy must be set aside for 2-3 hours. I also set it to 5 (at a temperature of 24-25 degrees). Then the liquid becomes more viscous and a high lens can be formed from it.
ADVICE: For pouring rings, earrings and pendants, do not use epoxy immediately after dilution - it is still too liquid! We need a slightly convex coating, so we wait until it thickens to a state of viscous honey. If you pour epoxy into a silicone mold, you can safely use it right away.
STEP 6
While our epoxy resin acquires the desired consistency, we will prepare the molds for pouring, cut out the pictures and - most importantly - make a retainer for rings and earrings.
With pictures, everything is clear: it is better to print them on a laser printer, because the ink lays down in a dense layer on the paper, and does not penetrate into the fibers of the paper, like ink in an inkjet printer. Because we will need to cover the picture acrylic varnish, this is a prerequisite. After all, epoxy applied to an unprotected picture will leave on it greasy spot. When protected with varnish, a dense film is formed. It is better to apply varnish in 2-3 layers and dry properly.
We cut the picture in shape, then paste it into the base (you can use PVA glue, you can use the same varnish), then varnish it. This is the best algorithm to follow. We also carefully coat the junction of the picture and the base. For this I use a soft brush.
STEP 7
Now let's make a holder for rings and earrings. It is needed so that our molds are well fixed. We take a piece of foam, it should be even on all faces. With a clerical knife, we cut out rectangular grooves into which our ring-earrings will subsequently be fixed.
These are the rings I got after about 2 days. This is how long it takes for the resin to cure. Will have to be patient!
But such earrings, similar to lollipops, turned out when poured into molds.
And some more inspiration
You can experiment with fillers, shapes and use of ready-made jewelry items. You can add various dry glitters, potal, colored foil, which is sold in nail art stores, dry pigments, dried blades of grass, flowers, leaves, and even tint it with old unnecessary eye shadow, pouring them a little into the finished mixture.
Epoxy resin is a multifunctional substance. synthetic material used as in industrial production, and in the household, for the embodiment of creative ideas.
How to tint epoxy resin? A uniform shade or beautiful color transitions, mother-of-pearl shine and even glow in the dark are given using both special and improvised means.
special means
For successful staining, the easiest way is to purchase a special dye for epoxy. The paint is monophonic, mother-of-pearl, with sparkles, fluorescent. If you add a drop of dye to the substance, you get a translucent shade. To obtain a rich color, the epoxy is first dyed white, and then the desired color.
Advice! You should choose those paint manufacturers that offer the epoxy itself. Such products meet all the requirements for coloring as much as possible. Examples: POLYMAX DREAM, MG-EPOX-COLOR.
improvised means
The basic rule for coloring epoxy is that the dye must not be on water based. How can you tint epoxy resin:
- Ballpoint pen ink. Minus - they can change color, and the result of staining will be unpredictable (for example, green ink sometimes gives a brown tint).
- The ink of gel pens is more reliable, and they also provide vibrant color.
- Oil paints from art stores. Gradually introduced into the resin, and only then the hardener is added.
- For the purpose of coloring, polymer clay ink is also used.
- Alkyd paints, nitro paint for cars.
- Printer toner or activated charcoal is used to impart black.
- AT hardware store dry pigment dyes and alcohol-based stains are sold.
- Colored powder, talcum powder, baby powder.
- Idea: shredded colored pencil leads.
- Pastel colors make the resin colored, but not transparent.
- White color will be obtained using chalk powder, kaolin (white clay) or tooth powder.
- Bright green gives the usual pharmacy brilliant green.
- Non-water-based stained glass paints are also used successfully.
On a note
In order for the staining procedure to be successful, follow these recommendations:
- The mass of oil paint should not exceed 10% of the mass of epoxy resin, otherwise it will turn out too soft.
- Use protective gloves when working. In case of contact with skin, wash immediately with soap and water.
- Do not allow water to enter the substance.
- Ventilate the room.
- Work with epoxy at a temperature not lower than 22 degrees.
The proposed staining methods arose as a result of experiments. Perhaps these are not all ideas, and you will discover other ways.
Heretic 02-05-2007 10:35
Here, in fact, it took "radical black" epoxy. Quite a lot, so the option with scraping pencils had to be postponed as a spare. What else can be mixed in to tint? some soot gas? In powder or directly paint from the art store?
Help, who can ... Who can, help ..
Sincerely.
EgorB 02-05-2007 11:06
Powder toner for printers will help
Gadyukin 02-05-2007 11:46
I made a handle out of ebony, there was a bunch of this dye. Probably any loose filler in the form of powder.
AE 02-05-2007 13:17
On all sorts of demobilization crafts, epoxy was tinted with paste from ballpoint pens.
Konstantinovich 02-05-2007 13:25
You can get any color by mixing epoxy with nitro paint. A long time ago, for example, I imitated "mammoth bone" inlay like this (epoxy + white nitro enamel: 1: 4).
bigdad 02-05-2007 13:39
Udod 02-05-2007 13:45
Modern tinting compounds are mixed with almost all types of paints. I just don't know if it's black.
Heretic 02-05-2007 14:34
quote: Originally posted by bigdad:
Mixing epoxy with artistic oil paints you can get almost any color. Checked multiple times.
quote: Originally posted by Konstantinych:
You can get any color by mixing epoxy with nitro paint. A long time ago, for example, I imitated "mammoth bone" inlay like this (epoxy + white nitro enamel: 1: 4)
and the curing time/strength of cured varies greatly?
Sincerely.
Konstantinovich 02-05-2007 15:39
The polymerization time is accelerated by an order of magnitude.
The strength of the composition after that is excellent, like a bone.
sleep 02-05-2007 17:23
I used powder activated carbon for black - very successful, and flour for white - it turned out like a bone, the epoxy was yellow
sergeant 02-05-2007 19:46
When they cast a stock for a rifle (pneuma), they used the simplest recipe.
interfered with epoxy and poured ink from a conventional rod. very thorough mixing is a prerequisite. The color was simply controlled by a drop of ink and mixed. what kind of flowers did not achieve
The rifle has been serving faithfully for 8 years already, the epoxy stays dead, does not paint anything, the rifle is actively used as a screw for entertaining.
Today we will talk about tinting (staining) transparent epoxy resin.
Transparent epoxy resin (MG-EPOX-GLASS) and dyes, open up an endless number of options for us colors(it all depends on your imagination).
The use of these two materials in pairs gives rich colors, as well as smooth shades.
To obtain semi-transparent flowers, a small drop of dye is enough, then you can mix several translucent shades in the casting, the effect is amazing and very similar to precious stones.
To obtain the maximum number of shades, the epoxy resin must first be converted to White color(color) and then add color dye, so we get smooth transition color from pale to saturated.
Coloring the epoxy white does not mean that the transparent effect is lost, we add the minimum amount of epoxy dye.
How to check the transparency of dyed resin?
Very simple, mix epoxy resin and dye in a transparent container, a gap will be visible on the walls and at the bottom of the container, if the product is 5 mm (thickness), then the container should be 5 mm (thickness), only this way you will achieve the perfect result in final product.
There is a very interesting technique for painting epoxy resin and subsequent application:
- The blank of the future product must be exhibited in horizontal position
- We pour the base layer of epoxy resin (painted or transparent),
- We take an epoxy of a different color, add solvent 646 or acetone, mix thoroughly until a homogeneous liquid (closer to water) mass is obtained.
- Then, using various improvised tools, we spray drops onto the workpiece.
The effect will be as follows: we dilute the epoxy with solvents and when the drops fall on the base layer, it begins to stretch, creating chaotic patterns and craters.
(Watch this video until the end to see what I'm talking about.)
Dyes MG-EPOX-COLOR are compatible with each other, so you can get the maximum shade!
If you have any questions, write to e-mail, leave comments or just call:
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