People who want to update furniture, but do not have the opportunity to buy new products, should pay attention to veneer. It consists of sheets of wood that come in different thicknesses and colors. The veneer is glued to old furniture which improves it appearance. Such a finish will further reliably protect objects from damage, so many are interested in the question of how to glue the veneer on the base. At home, this is quite possible.
How to glue veneer: a description of the main types of material
How to glue veneer correctly?
There are also root cuts of trees, from which nothing can be created on furniture production. However, they are still used because of the unusual pattern.
What glue to glue the veneer on?
To work with thin wood, it is better to use contact glue. It provides strong adhesion to surfaces. You can also try a different kind of glue.
- PVA. Suitable for gluing even parts when it is done tightly with a hot iron.
- Titebond. It is considered a professional moisture-resistant solution and is suitable for working with more complex elements.
- Epoxy resin. It is also used to bond thin wood to plywood and fiberboard, but not everyone likes it.
Remember that veneer is a porous material, so lubricate it only with a thick adhesive that does not contain water-based solvents.
How to glue veneer at home?
Gluing veneer to the base is also called veneer. When performing the procedure, follow certain rules:
- Prepare the bonding surfaces so that they are clean and level.
- Examine the veneer. If it has a layer of glue underneath protective film, remove it and walk over this place with an iron.
- If there is no adhesive layer, apply it, and when everything is dry, glue the strip of wood to the base.
- How to glue veneer with an iron? Do this by smoothly guiding the appliance along the direction of the wood fibers.
- Then be sure to varnish the veneer to protect it from external influences.
After prolonged use of the door leaf, its condition may deteriorate significantly. There are dents, chips, cracks, scratches. Paint may fade from direct sunlight, varnish may crack from mechanical impact. In order not to buy a new canvas, you can restore the old one. To do this, you need to know how to glue veneer at home. With the help of precious wood plates, you can not only restore the sash, but also give it a new design.
Not many people know how to glue veneer. This process consists of several key stages, each of which must be treated with special responsibility.
The first of these is the preparation of the work surface. Pasting with veneer should not be started on an unfinished old canvas.
Training:
- Remove fabric from hinges. For this, a mount is used if the hinges are old or a screwdriver (new fasteners) if the screws are located at the end of the door.
- Place the canvases on two chairs or on the floor. Hardware needs to be removed.
- When the handles decorative elements and the hinges are removed, clean the canvas from the old coating. You can remove it with building hair dryer, iron and metal spatula.
- Level the cleaned surface to continue work. The bumps are polished with a coarse sandpaper. Cover holes, cracks and chips with wood putty and carpentry glue. So you can restore doors from a typesetting array, MDF and chipboard.
Before preparatory work floor covering required plastic wrap. So it will be protected from stains of glue and putty.
Material preparation and cutting
After the canvas is prepared for holding further work, you need to buy material and cut it into pieces. Often in the production, sheets of wood are made, which are sold in rolls. If such material was purchased, it is required to straighten it in advance. To do this, straighten the roll, moisten the veneer with a damp sponge and place it between two sheets of plywood or drywall.
Advice! It is necessary to take dimensions from the prepared canvas. When cutting a sheet of veneer, an additional 5 cm must be left on each side. The margin will help to avoid inaccuracies with incorrectly taken parameters.
To cut the material, you need to use a plywood knife or a plunge-cut saw. With the help of a power tool, you can make the most even cut.
Do not use scissors when cutting veneer - the material may crack and become unusable.
What glue is best to use?
Glue for veneer also needs to be able to choose. It all depends on how flat the surface is, what parts need to be glued. If you need to glue small elements, you can use ordinary PVA. When gluing complex parts to create beautiful joints, you need to use special adhesive compositions for wood. Wood glue is well suited for gluing large surfaces.
Gluing methods
After the canvas is prepared, the material is cut to size, and the glue is selected, you need to learn how to stick the veneer at home. There are three ways to do this.
Cold contact method
Considered the most in a complicated way gluing wood with a treated surface. It involves the use of contact adhesive. The difficulty lies in the fact that the binder sets quickly. Because of this, it will be extremely difficult to correct inaccuracies when wrong placement contact surfaces.
In order for the gluing to turn out to be reliable, it is necessary to create a strong clamping force in the first seconds of contact between the materials (press with your hand or load). Experts do not recommend using for gluing large planes.
hot glue
A layer of glue is applied to the surfaces to be glued, which must dry for a certain period of time. After that, it is necessary to attach a sheet of veneer exactly in size. With the help of an iron, the sheet begins to smooth out from the center to the edges. Adhesive composition under the influence high temperature melts and sticks two materials together.
In order for the contact method of hot gluing to work, it is necessary to use an adhesive with a thick consistency. To prevent the glue from drying too quickly when using an iron, it is necessary to moisten the veneered surface warm water. In places of swelling, punctures or incisions are required to release air.
Cold bonding with pressing
The classic gluing method, which requires fixing the clamps on the glued surfaces. The exposure time is indicated on the packaging of the composition used. After drying, it is necessary to remove the clamps and check the condition of the ends of the door.
Now you know how to glue veneer. In order for the work to go smoothly, it is necessary to take into account the recommendations and advice of the tilers:
- When using veneer expensive breeds wood (oak, ash) is required to apply a layer of cotton fabric to the canvas.
- grind new surface It is possible only on the fibers with sandpaper.
- Since the new coating absorbs water well, immediately after gluing it must be covered with a layer of varnish.
- Using an iron, you need to constantly drive it over the work surface. It is forbidden to delay the heated metal surface at one place. If there are tan marks, it is necessary to remove the blackness sharp knife or blade.
- To fix a long strip of veneer on the edge, you need to fix one of the edges with an iron or a building hair dryer. It is convenient to fix the edges and corners with a soldering iron.
- The coating of radius doors must be entrusted to the tilers of old furniture.
- Docked veneer panels from different breeds wood.
- At the ends located at the bottom and top of the canvas, it is required to cut off 2 mm chamfers on both sides. The sash will not cling to the frame after gluing a new wooden covering.
- When cutting a sheet with a knife, it is recommended to do this across the fibers. If the sheet is cut lengthwise, it is necessary to make several movements with the blade. Otherwise, the cutting part of the knife will slip and ruin the sheet.
By following the basic rules, you can work without difficulty.
The skill of veneering can be useful not only for restoration door panels. With the help of new wood sheets, you can change the design wooden furniture. You can cover it with any color of paint for wooden surfaces. The main thing is to apply varnish or plastic film to protect the veneer from the damaging effects of moisture.
A fairly simple way to imitate solid woods using only glue, veneer and wood-based material (chipboard, fiberboard, MDF, plywood). Although precious wood veneer is used here, and the work itself requires care and precision of the eye, this work can be done even at home. But there are several features that must always be remembered and observed during work.
Glue the veneer only on very flat surface, slightly rough, but without visible notches. If I may say so, the surface of the base must be velvety, the veneer must be glued across the direction of the fibers of the base, but not along, otherwise cracks may appear that will only spoil the surface. They arise due to different shrinkage of the veneer and the base.
If you are using an expensive veneer and sticking it on a particle board, then be sure to stick an intermediate layer of cheap veneer or cotton fabric.
When using burl or high-grain wood veneer, choose a base of carefully dried wood to prevent cracks later.
First of all, the side edges of the product should be pasted over so that subsequently the end of this plate is not visible from the front side.
Should be paid Special attention at the joints between the slats. In order to avoid gaps, which you then have to fiddle with for a long time, first glue 20-30 mm plates along the edge of the joint, and then, when this operation is done and the seam is invisible, dry the plate with a hot iron, almost without pressing. If this is not done, the veneer will shrink and a gap will appear at the junction. If the gap could not be avoided, the veneer plate can be gently heated and lifted from the surface of the base with a knife or spatula, and then re-glued to a new place.
Leave a 10 mm allowance for veneer along the edges of the product; at the end of the work, it will need to be cut and sanded. From above and below, you need to chamfer 2x2 mm so that the edges of the veneer do not protrude beyond the dimensions of the product.
For gluing veneer on small surfaces, use PVA glue, and on large surfaces, use wood glue. This will help you to make the sticking better.
As well as gluing, gluing is carried out in two ways: by pressing and lapping. Both methods are performed in the following sequence: First, apply a layer of glue to the base, then put veneer on it, iron it with a clean cloth, thereby removing all air bubbles from under it. After that, for a better connection, moisten the top of the veneer with a sponge and warm water. After 1-2 hours, when the glue begins to thicken, lap the veneer in the direction of the grain, being careful not to pick up the edges. To do this, all movements must be directed towards the edges or diagonally to them;
Before leaving the structure to fully bond, lay sheets of white paper over the seams. Now all this can be left as it is, or you can put it under a press, laying paper on top of the veneer, then a gasket, and only then clamp it with clamps;
Screened and heated sand can be used as a press for parts with an uneven, curved surface. Lay a sheet of paper on the surface first, thereby protecting the veneer from contamination, and then a canvas sandbag. How more sand the more pressure will be exerted. But it should not be excessive so that the veneer does not deform. The optimal pressure will be exerted by a layer of sand of 9-11 cm. It is possible to release the surface from such a press only after the sand has completely cooled down so that the veneer does not “bubble”.
Grinding is done with sandpaper No. 3 and only along the fibers of the glued veneer. Electrical grinding machines in no case should be used, because the resulting transverse risks under the varnish will be very noticeable and it is almost impossible to hide them. All grinding work is done by hand, it is not at all as difficult as it seems at first glance.
When the glued surface is already cleaned and sanded, a layer of varnish should immediately be applied to it, because the veneer, like any thin cut of wood, tends to instantly absorb moisture and peel off. For processing veneer, it is better to use furniture nitro varnish, it dries quickly enough and already 10-15 minutes after applying the first layer of the product, it will be possible to turn over and continue working on its reverse side.
Now let's talk about the disadvantages that may arise when gluing veneer to the base. First of all, this is the formation of so-called "siskins" - places where the adhesive layer was insufficient, and air cushions were formed. The simplest tapping will help you find such areas - empty places will sound muffled, under blows. "Chizh" should be cut with a joint knife, then carefully lift one edge and pour a few drops of glue into the void with a pipette or syringe with a needle with a large clearance. After that, with a rag, stroking the surface in a circular motion, spread the glue inside the former "siskin" and iron the seam, on which you then need to apply a paper strip.
Then, this place must be ironed with an iron heated to a temperature of 100-110 degrees.
It is possible to select experimentally optimal temperature iron. To do this, it is installed on the surface of the veneer for 20 seconds, after which the presence of marks is checked. The iron should be as hot as possible without burning the veneer. This temperature will be sufficient for work, because the adhesive layer applied to the veneer heats up within 8-10 seconds, and cools down within 5-6 seconds after the iron is removed. Air bubbles formed due to uneven grinding most often have a convex shape. Such a bubble also needs to be cut, soak the veneer around the bubble a little, then pour a few drops of glue from a pipette or syringe and rub it with a warm iron through the paper.
If suddenly, during the work, a section of veneer broke off, cut a neat wedge from the remnants, and, attaching it to the door, circle it with a pencil. Then cut a hole in the veneer, insert a wedge, heat it with an iron and sand it. If the defect is not located on the edge of the base, but closer to the middle, you can cut out not a wedge, but a patch in the form of a diamond.
If a piece breaks off on the edge of the veneer, which should be perfectly even, glue two adjacent plates overlapping, and when the glue hardens, cut off the resulting step or sand it off with sandpaper.
The adhesive backing of the veneer should be warmed up uniform movements iron, it is unacceptable to apply it to the surface with “steps”, because the glue will subsequently harden unevenly and with side lighting these “steps” will shine through on the veneer.
So that when sticking long strips of veneer do not move, you should pin them to the door with the tip of a sharp knife from one end, or lightly grab them with an iron. But what to do if some parts of the veneer still shifted during gluing, due to which millimeters of excess veneer appear at the edges? Only after the glue is completely fixed, they will have to be leveled. Depending on the size of the protruding edges, either a joint knife or a planer is used. The planer is suitable only for a relatively small protrusion - about 1 mm. The larger protrusion is removed with a joint knife. At the same time, be sure to place a plank of the same thickness next to the part so that the veneer does not break off during alignment.
A furniture maker rarely manages to get by with one sheet or a strip - more often you have to join the glued veneer fragments together. This, too, should be learned.
At home, veneer joining is not at all the same as in production. In the second case, the docking is carried out even before the veneer is glued to the furniture base, that is, the cut and well-fitted veneer sheets are interconnected into a single web using adhesive paper tape applied along the seams (the paper will be peeled off after gluing). It is clear that if in the process of cladding tightly you try to glue veneer sheets in advance, then paper tape, moistened when wetting the veneer, it will fall behind, and the seams will open. And how do you imagine gluing large sheets veneer in an apartment? You will have to learn how to stick veneer sheets separately, one after another - gluing from the middle of the surface to be treated to its edges. By the way, remember that glue is not applied immediately to the entire surface, but only to the place where the sheet fragment will be glued.
The most difficult thing in this work is that, being moistened, the veneer, firstly, twists, and secondly, expands across the fibers. As a result, after lapping the next sheet to the previously glued joint along the joint parallel to the fibers, a fold will certainly form - due to the expansion of the veneer. And if you rub this place again, moving the entire sheet, then after drying, when the veneer shrinks slightly, the seam will open and your work will go down the drain.
How to avoid it?
The next sheet of veneer is rubbed not close to the previous one, but with some overlap on it. And already when the veneer has expanded, it should be cut through with an overlap through both sheets - with a sharp knife along a tightly pressed ruler. Then carefully remove the cut strips of veneer - using a knife or chisel, slightly bending the edge of the second sheet and again rubbing the joint with a heated iron (and also, if necessary, introducing glue under the edge of the second sheet). So that during the drying process the seam does not diverge, a paper strip 2-2.5 cm wide is glued (with the same glue) on it. After drying, it can be peeled off.
An overlap can be avoided if the butt weld is perpendicular to the fibers (or runs at an oblique angle towards the fibers). True, then it will be necessary to even more carefully adjust the edges of the joined sheets, and sometimes again cut the edges of the already glued sheet, tightening new leaf with the previous paper strip so that the density of the joint is not damaged during grinding.
It is possible to glue non-overlapping, but then you first need to stick paper strips on the seams, and only then, facing the edges, join the veneer strips according to the direction of the fibers.
Now we glue the front face and the front edge with veneer. You can decide for yourself whether to glue the face or the edge first. This will depend on whether you want to make the edge of the veneer on the edge or the edge of the veneer on the face invisible. Of course, it is better to start with the lining layer of the edge, then paste over the face and only then move on to facing the edge layer. And first, I remind you, you should carefully prepare the surface for cladding, picking up and cutting the veneer. We number the cut blanks and the places where they are glued, mark the lines of the joints. Warm up the glue in the oil pan, take a brush for applying glue, an iron for lapping (not electric, but heated on fire), a rag and paper strips for gluing the seams. Having fixed the furniture element in a vice with the edge up, apply glue to the edge and grind the prepared veneer strip with an iron. Having glued the strip, carefully clean its edges with a file - so that they do not end up behind the edges of the edge. That's it, you can start facing the plate.
First, we glue the veneer sheet on one side of the joint line marked on the plate - make sure that there is no skew. Then (with an overlap) we glue the second sheet, cut the overlap, remove the veneer trimmings, grind the joint and glue the seam with a paper strip. Since we cut the veneer sheets with allowances, as a result, when moistened, they will expand somewhat across the fibers and slightly protrude beyond the plate. Therefore, they need to be trimmed immediately. To do this, we turn the element lined with the face down and cut off the protruding veneer along each edge with a sharp knife. It remains to clean the edges with a file.
We again install the furniture element vertically. For finishing Glue the edges first middle lane, then - side. The main thing is to prevent the veneer from breaking during the lapping process, because in the front layer the fibers are directed perpendicular to the edge. After waiting until the glue is completely dry, we clean the edges of the lining on the edge and remove the paper strips from both the edge and the face with a damp cloth.
First of all, it is necessary to inspect in detail the reliefs to be faced and remove all irregularities, potholes, gaps, as well as other damage and defects. It is better to process the area with sandpaper.
In the case when the basis is applied softwood lumber, be sure to look for the presence of resin performance, you need to scrape it off with a knife and, for the sake of correctness, rinse with a solution (aqueous 25% acetone solution or an aqueous 5-6% soda ash solution). Concentrate the concentration that the veneer sticks weakly to the knots, they are better drill and erase, and "close up such a space with corks on glue. The moisture content of the veneer should be in the range of 8-10%, and the veneered parts - 7-9%.
To level the surfaces of the base, it is possible to use a putty of the following composition:
a) rosin - 60 segments zinc white - 30 segments wood flour - 10 segments Rosin must first be melted;
b) carbamide glue - 67 segments; wood flour - 33 parts.
For gluing veneer, it is best to use protein glues - mezdrovy or bone.
When using prepared glue, do not forget to check it. To do this, dip a wooden stick into the prepared mass and, after mixing the glue, remove it. If an even continuous transparent stream flows from the stick, this glue is good, it can be used. If, instead of a continuous stream, separate drops flow from the stick, then the glue is too liquid and cannot be used, since the veneer simply will not stick.
With excessive density, the glue slides off the stick slowly, in clots, or does not drain at all. You can't use this glue either. It lays unevenly on the surface.
To obtain the desired density of glue, add glue solids in the first case and water in the second. Reheat the glue in the oilcloth to the desired state.
AT working conditions usually the veneer is glued in special heated hydraulic presses.
At home, you will have to apply manual way"very tightly". Its essence is as follows: a thin layer of glue is applied to the prepared surface with a hard brush along the wood fibers, while making sure that lumps do not form and there are no smeared places.
After applying the glue, a slight exposure is made for 3-4 minutes and veneer sheets are applied.
After laying the veneer on the base, you need to smooth it with a damp cloth, and then start rubbing, and the lapping hammer or iron should be heated to a temperature of about 150-200 ° C, so that during rubbing, the glue under the veneer warms up again and gains stickiness. It is necessary to grind the veneer along the fibers, from the middle to the edges.
It is very important that excess adhesive and remaining air are squeezed out during lapping. Lapping is carried out until the veneer sheets are completely glued. Wipe off excess adhesive immediately with a damp cloth.
Sometimes veneer stickers are produced as follows: a layer of glue is applied to the base and remains so until it dries. After about an hour, the surface of the adhesive is moistened with a damp cloth, veneer is applied and rubbed with a heated iron. The veneer sticks very quickly and securely.
It is possible to assemble small sheets of veneer into a set before gluing the right sizes. To do this, veneer sheets are laid out according to the selection with the face up, the planed edges are carefully joined and fastened with adhesive tape. The set is inverted and can be applied to the surface to be coated.
And yet, at home, preference is usually given to the sticker on the surface of individual small sheets sequentially, one after the other. In this case, sheets are usually glued from the middle of the surface to be lined to the edges. Glue is not applied immediately to the entire surface, but only to the place where the veneer sheet is glued (remember: we numbered and outlined the set).
The main difficulty in facing with separate sheets may arise due to the fact that the moistened veneer has the ability not only to twist, but also to expand across the fibers. And therefore, after you have rubbed the first sheet of the set and next pasted the next sheet along the joint parallel to the fibers, a wrinkle is formed from the expansion of the veneer.
If you rub this place again by shifting the entire sheet, then after drying, when the veneer sheet shrinks slightly, the seam will open. To prevent this, the next sheet is rubbed not close to the one pasted earlier, but with a slight overlap on it. After the veneer has expanded, the overlap is cut by cutting through both sheets of veneer.
The cut strips of veneer are removed. The junction of both sheets is rubbed again with a heated iron. For insurance, so that the seam does not open when it dries, an adhesive tape is glued over the seam, which is subsequently peeled off.
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