Secrets of growing and abundant flowering of fuchsia. Fuchsia does not bloom Why does fuchsia not bloom what to do

Fuchsia: propagation, cultivation and care at home... Homemade fuchsia is most widespread due to its unpretentiousness in care and ease of reproduction.

Fast-growing semi-herbaceous fuchsia shrub with small oval leaves, surprisingly beautiful bright flowers, hanging like lanterns on long and thin stalks. Their sepals and corolla are brightly colored in different colors, which gives them a special charm. A fuchsia bush can be arranged in the form of a standard tree or grown as a hanging hanging plant.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

How to care and what to do if fuchsia does not bloom. Possible reasons may be that in winter time Inappropriate conditions were created for fuchsia. Ideal conditions in winter 5-10 degrees. In this mode, fuchsia stops shoot growth and goes into a dormant state. As the temperature increases, the intensity and duration of lighting should also increase.

The reason may be due to late pruning and pinching of fuchsia. Pruning should be done in spring and autumn, cutting out any diseased, weakened or broken branches. During cold wintering, the branches should be shortened by one third in the fall. During a warm winter, it is better to postpone drastic pruning until spring (February-March).

Pinch the shoots depending on what shape you decide to give your plant. When forming an ampel, pinching is usually done after the third pair of leaves. When forming a bush, pinch it after the second pair of leaves. You should not pinch more than two times on the upper shoots, and it is better to pinch the lower shoots once, otherwise you may not wait for flowering.

Errors in care during the growth and flowering period of fuchsia. The plant may be hot, as mentioned above, or bad light. Direct sunlight depresses a houseplant, causing it to suddenly become smaller and drop its buds, while the roots may suffer from the heat. Overfed with fertilizers (nitrogen), or vice versa, not enough nutrients(phosphorus-potassium) during budding. The size of the container does not correspond to the size of the root system. Fuchsias bloom after they have wrapped their roots around the entire lump of substrate in the pot.

Decent content for fuchsia!

Temperature
During the growing season, the most favorable range for fuchsia is 18-25 degrees. In summer, especially in August, it behaves well in open ground, but as soon as the temperature exceeds 30 degrees, the plant sheds its leaves, dries out and stops blooming. In particularly hot weather, fuchsia should be taken out onto a loggia or balcony, avoiding direct sunlight, which can lead to the death of the flower. To protect the sensitive roots of the plant from overheating, it is advisable to use ceramic pot large size (plastic containers get very hot).

Lighting
All types of fuchsia prefer bright, diffused light. They should be grown on the east (west) window of the room or in the garden in comfortable partial shade. This culture does not tolerate daytime heat, but can easily withstand morning (evening) sun rays. But the flowering plant can no longer be rearranged or rotated: this can lead to the fall of all the flowers and buds.

Watering fuchsia
In the spring-autumn period - abundant - as the top layer of the substrate dries; in winter - moderate. For irrigation, it would be better to use soft, settled water. By the end of the growing season, watering is noticeably reduced, and by October-November it practically stops. At low temperatures The indoor fuchsia plant is usually watered 1-2 times a month.

Air humidity
During the growth period, the leaves are sprayed with a spray bottle in the morning and evening, or, to transmit more humidity, a decorative bowl with pebbles filled with water is placed next to the pot. In autumn and winter, excess moisture in fuchsia is contraindicated, so spraying is stopped during this period.

Feeding fuchsia
For open ground, biofertilizers are most effective; as for indoors, you can use any ready-made fertilizers, intended for home flowering plants. Frequent feeding (once a week) is recommended from the end of March; in winter, fuchsias are not fed.

Soil and replanting
Fuchsias are replanted annually and always in the spring. For this purpose, use special substrates from the store or any fertile soil, not forgetting about drainage. Sand and humus are recommended as useful additives, and when growing on a balcony, loam, which retains water well.

Fuchsia pruning
The more often fuchsia is pruned, the thicker its foliage. Most suitable option for growing fuchsia - regular pot or hanging basket. When several multi-colored varieties are planted together at once, the result is a real floral fireworks display.

Fuchsia propagation and care at home

Propagation by cuttings
This process of cutting fuchsia is carried out in February or March, sometimes in August-September (for slow-growing varieties). Cuttings 5-7 cm long are rooted in sand, water or any suitable loose substrate. Already on the 20-25th day, roots are formed, and the seedlings are transferred to pots 7-9 cm deep. Composition soil mixture- sand, humus, leaf and turf soil in equal proportions. To obtain a lush bush, cuttings should be planted several at once in one pot. The young growth blooms the same year.

Propagation by seeds
Artificial (cross) pollination is required for seed maturation. Mixing it yourself various varieties fuchsias, you can get new hybrids that delight the eye with a kaleidoscope of new colors.

Propagation by leaves
The stems, together with the most developed leaves, are torn off from the “mother” and placed in soft soil to a depth of 1 cm, after which they are covered with a plastic (glass) lid. For their growth, daily spraying with warm boiled water is necessary. Further transplantation into containers (pots) is possible when small rosettes appear at the base of the stem.

Possible problems with fuchsia leaves, diseases and pests

Problems arise most often due to improper care. Fuchsias rarely get sick, and among the pests it is most worried about white flies (from the moth family). Concerning external signs unhealthy appearance, then they allow you to correctly adjust the conditions of the plant:

  • powdery spots or fine dew on leaves. Reason - high humidity. The method of control is spraying with an aqueous mixture of foundationazole (dilution 1 to 11);
  • falling leaves. Possible reasons are insufficient watering, lack of light, or an excess of warm, dry air;
  • falling of flowers. This is exactly how fuchsia responds, the pot of which was rearranged or turned to the sunny side during flowering. Another common mistake is interruption in watering, that is, insufficient or too abundant supply of water to the plant;
  • short flowering season. It is difficult to identify the root cause, since several factors can influence it at once: lack of light and/or fertilizing, poor watering, keeping it in a room that is too warm, etc.;
  • yellow stripes and brown spots on the leaves. The reason is waterlogging of the soil in winter.

Among the abundance of beautiful flora there is a small fuchsia plant, named after the botanist L. Fuchs. It is a tree-like shrub with abundant branches covered with flowers. Can grow in open ground and in a pot at home. Flowers that look like lanterns different colors. There are more than 100 hybrid species. There are simple, double and semi-double flowers. But not everyone can wait for the fuchsia to bloom, and there are several reasons for this.

Fuchsia does not bloom: reasons

Why fuchsia doesn’t bloom interests not only novice gardeners. This plant is very whimsical and can disappoint even experienced gardener. There are many factors influencing the growth and flowering of a plant. Here are the main ones:

  • illumination;
  • air temperature;
  • lack or excess of moisture;
  • pests and diseases;
  • soil composition.

If at least one of the parameters is not met, this leads to a decrease or complete absence of buds. Therefore, as quickly as possible, it is worth finding out why fuchsia does not bloom at home and what to do to correct the situation. There are reasons that can be eliminated immediately and allow buds to appear this year or prepare the bush for flowering next year.

Lack of light

Fuchsia is a light-loving plant; lack of lighting affects the appearance of buds. Better flower place on the eastern, western and southwestern windows (sides of the site). It benefits from fresh air, so it is recommended to send the fuchsia pot to the garden in a pot for the summer, as it is, or transplant it to the plot. But you will need to protect the flower from the wind, and on hot sunny days, shade it from direct sunlight.

Fuchsia does not bloom what to do

Important! When the buds appear, under no circumstances should you move or rotate the plant.

Air temperature

For fuchsia, the air temperature has great importance. In summer, on hot days (over 30°C), to prevent the buds from falling off, spray the flower itself and the air around it twice a day. For additional moisture in hot weather, place a small container with expanded clay and water. And the main condition for winter maintenance is the air temperature not higher than 15°C.

Lack of moisture

If there is a lack of moisture, the soil dries out, the foliage falls off, and budding may not occur at all. Recommended good watering settled water, there must be drainage at the bottom of the pot so that the water does not linger, leading to rotting of the roots.

Pests and diseases

Fuchsia, like all plants, suffers from some diseases. She loves moisture, but too much can cause gray rot. Brown spots appear on the stems and shoots are affected. The treatment is carried out with copper-containing preparations, such as foundationazole, pureflower.

Important! If root rot The fuchsia root has been struck, it can no longer be saved, all that remains is to cut off the shoots and place them in a glass of water for rooting.

In order not to provoke the disease, use a coarse-grained substrate and water it rarely but abundantly. Glyocladin is used for prevention.

Whitefly

Their insects are loved by fuchsia spider mites, whiteflies, and aphids, so the plant must be inspected for the presence of these pests and treated with insecticides. For example, spider mite can be eliminated with karbofos.

Sometimes they appear on the underside of the leaf. yellow spots. This disease is called rust, which causes leaves and flowers to fall off. Treatment against it is carried out with the drugs Vertan, Bordeaux mixture, which are diluted strictly according to the instructions indicated on the package.

If the plant is affected by pests, but is still able to bloom normally, you still need to take all measures for treatment.

How to make fuchsia bloom profusely

For creating beautiful bush The crown is formed by pinching. In February, it is transplanted by transferring from a small pot to a larger one just a couple of centimeters. Fuchsia will increase root system and will spend less energy on flowers.

Since the shoots of the plant have grown over the winter, the central stem and several branches are selected to form a crown and pinched at the required height. After a few weeks, the fuchsia will be covered in flowers.

Important! Excess shoots can be placed in water until roots appear, and then planted.

The plant needs constant feeding, this is especially important during the period of flower ovary. How to feed fuchsia for abundant flowering? From spring to autumn, feeding (root and leaf) is carried out every week. The sheet is treated with plantofol in combination with zircon and epin. This will prevent the buds from falling off and will affect the abundance of flowering.

Applying fertilizer to the soil

How to make fuchsia bloom profusely

Flowering largely depends on the composition of the soil, what fertilizers are applied (dry or liquid) and fertilizers (mineral or organic). You can purchase ready-made soil in a store or prepare it yourself. The soil is suitable from a mixture of coconut fiber and any universal soil with the addition of vermicompost for softness and looseness.

Regardless of where you purchased the soil, it should definitely be calcined at high temperatures to destroy all microorganisms, disease spores, and weed seeds. Or this can be done by strong cooling: the soil is moistened with water, taken out to frost not lower than −10°C and left for several days. Freezing destroys all pests, but, unfortunately, beneficial bacteria too. Such procedures are carried out 2-3 times, then the soil is watered with biological products, for example, phytosporin containing microorganisms. In this state, the soil is left in a bag for 2 weeks.

Fertilizers for fuchsia are selected depending on the growth phase:

  • young specimens need fertilizing with a high nitrogen content to increase green mass and the growth of young shoots;
  • to make fuchsia cover itself with abundant flowers, you need to add fertilizers that include phosphorus and potassium;
  • when treating the bud with the drug, the color turns out bright and saturated;
  • It is good to alternate watering flowers with mineral and organic compounds.

Important! Under no circumstances should you water plants with fertilizer in dry soil. In 2 - 3 hours the soil is shed with clean, settled, warm water, and only then pour in solutions with useful microelements.

Knowing how and what to feed fuchsia, you can speed up plant growth, help it bloom on time, and increase resistance to various diseases.

Time and quantity of watering

During the period when the plant is actively growing and blooming, watering should be plentiful and frequent. There is an opinion that 90 out of 100% of the life activity of fuchsias depends on irrigation. Although they are considered to be moisture-loving, the majority of flowers die from overwatering, and it is impossible to save a flooded plant. For example, in indoor conditions, if fuchsia has dropped its leaves and buds, you need to check the soil for moisture. If it is very damp, it is worth taking the flower out of the flowerpot, with the remaining roots (white in color) transplanted into another soil, covered with a bag and left in the shade.

Overdrying the soil is also dangerous, as leaves and buds may fall off. The flowerpot is completely lowered into the water until it fills with water, and the plant itself is sprayed with a spray bottle. In general, it is better to spray fuchsia more often and generously than to flood it.

Both experienced gardeners and novice amateurs can cope with fuchsia only if they do everything as described above. It is very important to know how fuchsia grows and what to fertilize it with, then the result will not be long in coming. The plant will thank you with abundant bright flowering.

Exotic fuchsia does not bloom at home - is the microclimate at home suitable? We create all the conditions for fuchsia to bloom.

Understanding what fuchsia needs to bloom is half the battle in getting it to form inflorescences.

The plant belongs to the shrub species with a habitat in the central regions of America. Can be found in New Zealand. Having brought back from your trip the idea of ​​planting fuchsia at home, you successfully carried out the procedures, and even managed to get beautiful plants, but flowering did not occur. Let's figure out why.

  • Caring for fuchsia at home for flowering:
  • Abundant lighting;
  • Air temperature from 20 to 30° C;
  • Spraying;
  • Placement on east windows;

Application of biofertilizers; Fuchsia flowering at home depends on the amount of lighting. In spring summer period When foliage grows and buds form, you need to place the plant on eastern, western or southwestern windows. Avoid direct sunlight and heat. In the summer, try to provide neutral care for fuchsia, but in early spring there is room to roam. It is recommended to highlight fuchsia in the evening to increase the duration daylight hours

. This is effective not only on cloudy days, but also in the summer, when fuchsia closes up from the active sun. You can also reduce overheating of the roots and protect fuchsia blooms by planting the plant in a ceramic pot that keeps it cool. For supporting optimal level humidity, the plant needs not only to be watered, but also sprayed

, which will create a comfortable environment for flowering. Spraying is best done in the morning, but evening spraying is not excluded, but during the day, wetting the leaves is strictly prohibited. In summer, to prolong the flowering of fuchsia, you need to place a tray with wet pebbles. Fertilizing is based on the application of ready-made biologically active fertilizers once a week to stimulate flowering. You can start feeding from the end of March, when the plant fully wakes up after winter period

peace.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

Having analyzed the above proposed care methods, we can identify a number of exact reasons why fuchsia does not bloom.

  • Why fuchsia does not bloom at home:
  • Heat;
  • Lack of lighting;
  • Excess moisture;

Lack of fertilizing; In order to bring fuchsia out of its somnambulistic state and make it bloom, need to be moved to a place with diffused lighting, moderately watered and sprayed, fertilized with a mineral complex, focusing on elements. The plant buds will not keep you waiting if there are no other significant problems that would prevent their appearance.

Fuchsia diseases:

  • Rust;
  • Gray rot;

Pests on fuchsia:

  • Ticks;
  • Caterpillars;

Get rid of aphids and mites, which, moreover, “leave” rust behind them, you can using soapy water And mechanical removal, but if the degree of damage is severe - insecticides. Caterpillars remove from sheets and also use spot-on preparations or aerosols.

Insecticides:

  • "Aktelli";
  • "Anti-Aphids";
  • "BI-58";
  • "Decis";


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Fuchsia known to flower growers as a charming plant with flowers called who " Chinese lanterns ", Who " ballerinas", very popular and unpretentious plant. But this one indoor flower, nestled comfortably on an ordinary windowsill, was a mighty tree that grew in abundance in New Zealand and Central America in time immemorial.

In indoor floriculture, hybrid fuchsia is mainly grown ( Fuchsia hybrida), numbering a huge number of varieties, both double and semi-double, white, burgundy, red, purple.

Fuchsia - home care

Content temperature

In the warm season, the optimal temperature for fuchsia will be within +20-25 degrees. In principle, more is allowed heat, but not too much. When the temperature rises to +30 degrees, fuchsia can shed its leaves. This should be especially taken into account if you plant it in the summer open ground, which is not only allowed, but also has a beneficial effect on her. But in this case it must be planted in a place where heating to critical temperature. In the summer, many gardeners treat fuchsia as if it were a plant, that is, they dig it into the ground along with the pot. This will allow you to quickly change its location without damaging the plant.

In winter, this indoor plant must be given a rest. Accordingly, the temperature during this period should be significantly reduced (about +8-12 degrees). But severe hypothermia is just as dangerous as overheating. This especially applies to the root system. To maintain optimal winter temperatures, fuchsia is placed on the windowsill at this time, where the required temperature is most likely. In order to avoid hypothermia of the roots from a cold window sill or, on the contrary, overheating from a window sill heated by a radiator, the flower pot must be insulated from it. This is easy to do - place the pot on a suitable piece of foam.

Lighting

Indoor fuchsia is a light-loving flower, but the light for it should be, although bright, but diffused, without midday sunlight, which poses a danger to most indoor plants. At home best place for the vast majority of indoor flowers, and fuchsia in particular, these are windows oriented to the east or west. Even if in the morning or evening hours if a certain amount of sunlight hits the flower, it will only benefit it. The same rule should be used if you plant fuchsia in open ground.

Note. During flowering, you cannot rearrange or rotate the flower! This can trigger the shedding of flowers and buds.

Watering, air humidity and fertilizers

Fuchsia, which is essentially very simple to care for at home, is still demanding proper watering. During active development, which occurs during the spring-summer period, it must be watered regularly and abundantly. But regularity does not mean continuous watering and waterlogging of the soil. Here it is necessary to follow the rule of the “golden mean”. The smartest thing to do is to water the fuchsia as soon as it dries out. upper layer soil in a pot. This way, you will protect it from drying out and overflowing.

In winter, watering is significantly reduced. Some seasoned gardeners recommend not watering it at all in October-November, but I would not recommend novice gardeners to do this. Let the soil dry (not completely), and then water it. In general, it is recommended to water fuchsia once or twice a month if it is kept cool. It would be enough. For watering at any time of the year, use settled water, preferably soft and, of course, not cold.

In summer, try to spray the flower regularly. Fuchsia loves it. Others can also be used. During the dormant period, the flower should not be sprayed.

Fuchsia is fed only during the growing season. From March until the onset of autumn, it can be fed with any complex fertilizer for flowering indoor plants weekly ( good result showed fertilizers for ). From the end of summer, fertilizing should be gradually reduced, and with the onset of the dormant period, it should be stopped altogether.

Transfer

At home, replanting fuchsia is a mandatory and annual event, regardless of the age of the plant. It is carried out in the spring, before the start of the growing season. During the same period, other manipulations with the plant are carried out that accompany the transplantation. Be sure to prune the plant before planting. Remove dried, weak or elongated (fatten) shoots completely. Cut the rest by a third. Taking the plant out of the pot, be sure to check the roots. Remove damaged areas, if any.

It is best to plant fuchsia in a ceramic pot. It will better protect the root system from overheating and hypothermia than plastic. With each transplant, take a pot slightly larger than the previous one, about 1-2 centimeters in diameter.

Unpretentious fuchsia to the composition of the earth special requirements does not present. There are many soil mixtures on sale that are suitable for replanting. This is usually light, loose soil. If you want to make your own soil for fuchsia, you can mix the following ingredients:

  • Leaf soil - three parts;
  • Peat - two parts;
  • Sand (or perlite) - one part

It is highly advisable to add to the mixture wood ash . It can also be added to the purchased mixture if it is not contained in it.

Be sure to provide.

Fuchsia propagation

Three methods of reproduction are used: seeds, leaves and cuttings. The first two methods are used much less frequently. But this does not mean that they are less effective. They are simply more labor-intensive and take much longer to get results. Beginner gardeners (and experienced ones too...) prefer propagation by cuttings. That's where we'll start.

Propagation of fuchsia by cuttings

This can be done both in spring and autumn. Autumn propagation (August-September) is used mainly for slow-growing varieties. Most often, cuttings are taken in February-March, in which case flowering may occur in the same year.

  • Cuttings for propagation are taken small (6-10 centimeters long) from the top of the plant, cutting them off under the lower bud.
  • The lower leaves must be removed, leaving 3, maximum 4 pairs.
  • You can root cuttings in loose (peaty) soil or in wet sand, and in the water. For beginner flower growers, I would recommend the last method, for clarity.
  • After about 20-25 days (possibly earlier), the cutting will produce roots sufficient to be planted in a pot. For young fuchsias, the composition of the soil should be as nutritious as possible. A mixture (in equal parts) of leaf, turf, humus soil and sand is recommended.

Propagation of fuchsia by leaf

  • In this case, you need to take not just a separate leaf, but cut it off with a small piece of the stem.
  • The petiole with a piece of stem is buried in the ground (about 1 cm). To do this, you can take the nutrient mixture described above.
  • The soil and leaf are moistened and covered with a transparent cap (jar, PE bag, etc.).
  • For better rooting, the leaf should be sprayed daily.
  • After the young rosettes of the plant appear, they can be replanted.

Propagation of fuchsia by seeds

This process is quite complicated, so I would not recommend it to novice gardeners. Just as an experiment. The difficulty is to properly pollinate the flowers of the plant. Self-pollination of the mother plant is unacceptable! Requires artificial pollination. If not all flowers are pollinated, then the pollinated one must be isolated from the rest by placing a protective film cap on it. After the flower bears fruit and it has matured, you can collect the seeds and begin sowing.

This procedure is simple and not much different from obtaining plants from seeds. The only thing I would like to note is that there is no need to bury the seeds in the ground, it is enough to scatter them on the surface of the moistened soil.

This method, despite its complexity and labor intensity, is quite interesting. After all, in this process you can truly get YOUR flower, with a unique color. So, even novice flower growers can feel like real breeders.

Pruning fuchsia

Proper pruning of the plant will not only give the bush a neat appearance, but also stimulate more abundant and lush flowering. In addition to pre-transplant pruning, there are other types of pruning.

Pruning is carried out throughout the summer. Long shoots are selectively pruned, which will later produce new flowers in the fall.

Krona correct form can be formed by evenly cutting off the shoots, leaving two to four pairs of leaves on them.

The standard form of fuchsia looks very beautiful. It's easy to get. It is enough to remove all the side branches of the plant to the desired height. For stability, the central stem of the flower is attached to a support.

And, of course, immediately after rooting the cutting, you need to take care of the future type of the plant. Once established in the permanent pot, be sure to pinch off the top.

Why doesn't fuchsia bloom?

This question comes up most often. And the reasons may be different.

The most common reason is a warm winter. If you cannot provide the plant with the necessary winter temperature at home, then in the spring, carry out more radical pruning of the shoots.

The second reason is that the pot is too spacious. Fuchsia, like many flowering plants(, for example) will not bloom until its roots completely entwine the earthen ball.

Lack of light is another reason. It can be easily removed...

Despite all the love for watering, it is excessive waterlogging that can be the reason that fuchsia does not bloom. Organize your watering.

Be sure to feed the plant. Lack of essential nutrients can cause this problem.

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1. Fuchsia does not bloom!

But there is no way to alleviate the suffering from changing the place - spray it 2 times a day, do not keep it in bright sun and do not feed it for a month. Sometimes you have to trim the crown if it is very large. If its condition begins to deteriorate - the branches dry out, mold appears in the pot, the trunk rots at the base - then you will have to check the roots again. This can also happen from overfeeding.

9. The tips of my fuchsia leaves are drying out.

Answer: In most cases, the tips of fuchsia leaves dry out when the root system is damaged (flooding, root collar rot, drying out of the coma, overheating of the roots, underground pests). The reason may also be a sharp change in air humidity (for example, if fuchsia, accustomed to high humidity “under a hood,” is placed in a hot dry room without adaptation), frostbite, chapping (when taking out a person accustomed to room conditions fuchsia on the balcony without adaptation), sunburn of leaves, ground pests

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