Plant Narcissus: photo, types, cultivation, planting and care in the open field. Daffodils taceti

Planting and caring for flowers is done by daffodils on almost every personal plot. These plants appeared in Russia even earlier than tulips and hyacinths, and gradually the cultivation of this crop acquired the scale of a cult. Everyone knows what a narcissus flower looks like, but it will not be superfluous for beginner growers to familiarize themselves with the forcing technology and classification of these plants.

Description of narcissus: what stems and bulbs look like, flower structure

The narcissus plant belongs to the Amaryllis family. AT natural conditions grows in the Mediterranean, Asia and southern Europe. The genus includes about 60 species and thousands of hybrids and varieties bred by breeders.

It is worth starting a description of a narcissus flower with the fact that it is a perennial bulbous plant with basal linear leaves, a peduncle, the length of which can vary from 8 to 80 cm.

As you can see in the photo, the narcissus bulb has a round or ovoid shape, covered with a shell of scales:

Its structure is characterized by a distinctive feature: the bulb has two renewal buds, which are at different stages of development.

Narcissus blooms in white, yellow, orange, red and shades of red and orange. In the structure of the narcissus flower, a crown and tepals are distinguished. Flowers can be with a split crown and terry. At the same time, the shape of the flower is amazing: six perianth lobes, and in the middle there is an outgrowth - long or not very long. It is called a tube or a crown. The diameter of a white, yellow or cream flower is from 2 to 10 cm, the crown is from 1 to 6 cm, the height of the crown is from 0.5 to 6 cm. The edge of the crown is smooth or wavy. Tones - white, yellow, orange, pink, red. A border of a different color may be located along the edge of the crown. During the flowering of daffodils, there are from one to seven flowers on the stem, depending on the variety.

When describing the narcissus plant, it is worth noting that flowers with a pink and orange crown retain their color better if they are not in bright sun.

The root system of daffodils is fibrous and is formed from annually renewed adventitious cord-like roots, which are located in the lower outer part of the bottom. They are laid during the summer dormancy and appear on the bulb in the fall. In addition to the usual roots of daffodils, there are also retractable ones that contribute to the deepening of the bulb into the soil. They appear in small and medium-sized bulbs, as well as with a shallow (up to 10 cm) planting. The life span of the roots is 11-12 months, then they gradually die off. In August, the growth of new roots begins, and it is in autumn that they grow most intensively. In years with excess moisture, the death of old roots is delayed. With long-term storage of bulbs in conditions of high humidity, the growth of roots begins already in storage. This, of course, is very bad, since the roots can break off during sorting and planting. Subsequently, they are renewed at the expense of stocks of bulbs, but such plants develop poorly. The roots of the narcissus die off by mid-summer.

The leaves of daffodils are linear, erect, green or gray, collected in basal bunches. During the year of vegetation develops from 3 to 5 assimilating leaves. By the time of flowering, leaf blades reach their maximum size.

From the following description, you will learn what the daffodil stem, bract, pedicel and bulb look like.

The flower stem is leafless, 10 to 50 cm or more high, smooth, round or slightly flattened, sometimes ribbed with two keels on the sides.

The bract develops at the internodes, at the base of the pedicel, and consists of two fused leaflets forming a tube that protects the flower from damage during development. As the bud grows, the bract is torn, turning into a membranous wing that covers the pedicel and part of the ovary.

The pedicel is a thinner extension of the stem and varies in length in different varieties. The pedicel grows unevenly and therefore becomes curved. The degree of its curvature is different, in connection with which the flowers are arranged vertically or at different angles of inclination.

A narcissus bulb has 10–12 storage scales of two ages: current and last year. One or two daughter bulbs are laid inside the mother. Plant growth occurs due to nutrients from the external storage scales, after flowering they are deposited in the storage scales of the current year (internal). The advancement of the daughter bulbs embedded in the bulb to the periphery occurs over several years. Thus, the bulb is in constant development.

That is why daffodil bulbs can be left to winter in the soil, digging them up every 5-6 years. In old gardens, you can even once every 10 years. The signal that the bulbs need to be repotted is poor flowering, crushing of flowers, an outbreak of disease, or crowding the bulbs with each other. Usually a transplant is done in early August, when the leaves of the narcissus turn yellow. If the bulb has already begun to form new roots, it is necessary to carefully dig the bulbs so as not to damage the new roots.

The flowers of daffodils for bouquets are cut off in the bud phase at the moment when the covering leaf bursts and the bud turns colored.

Since mucus containing toxic substances is released from the cut, daffodils should not be placed in a vase with other flowers, which may fade prematurely from this, since the sticky juice will clog the vessels in their cuts and water will stop. The stems of daffodils should be immersed in water to a depth of no more than 6-7 cm. The beginning and duration of flowering of daffodils depends on the temperature of the soil and air. Air temperatures of 15 ° C are considered optimal, and soil temperatures of 10-12 ° C (this is April, May).

History and properties of daffodils

The history of daffodils in Russia began earlier than the history of tulips and hyacinths. And this flower became popular at the end of the 19th century, when breeders from Holland, England, the USA, and Japan began to develop new varieties.

The graceful forms of the daffodil have turned the flower into a real symbol of the awakening of nature. A flower can be called a romantic plant. Its petals are delicate, and the aroma is simply delicious. Many flower growers like to grow unpretentious daffodils.

They love daffodils not only in Russia. For example, among the Chinese, it is considered a traditional New Year's plant. The ancient Romans once had a tradition of meeting victorious warriors with bouquets of daffodils. The British especially like daffodils. In this country, the daffodil is even more popular than the beautiful rose. Once upon a time in Germany it was customary to bring a pot of narcissus after the wedding to the house of the newly-made husband. After that, the young wife carefully looked after the plant, which, according to legend, brought good luck and prosperity to the house of a young couple.

The properties of narcissus have been known for a long time traditional medicine. The ancient Greeks made an aromatic oil from the wonderful flower, which they used in the treatment of male infertility, as well as to arouse attraction. In the East, the leaves of this plant were used in the treatment of hemorrhoids and to relieve headaches. It is believed that the leaves contribute to the speedy healing of wounds and abrasions.

The leaves and bulbs of the plant contain a substance that is used in modern folk medicine to treat pneumonia, bronchitis, and as an expectorant. Dermatologists claim that narcissus leaves can be used as an adjuvant in the treatment of inflammatory skin diseases.

The advantage of daffodils over many bulbs is that they are not eaten by mice, since daffodil bulbs and leaves contain poisonous substances. Therefore, daffodils can serve as a "shield" for tulips planted nearby, small-bulbous ephemeroids, lilies and other bulbs.

Currently, daffodils are widely used in landscaping flower beds, lawns, borders, they are planted in groups between shrubs, they make up original compositions with other spring flowers. In addition, daffodils provide excellent cut material.

Narcissus plant: codes and classification

Daffodils are divided by scientists into 13 groups. And only one of these groups is those daffodils that are found wild in nature. The remaining groups of daffodils are the work of human hands: they are obtained by crossing.

If you buy daffodil bulbs from a catalog, you need to learn how to read the daffodil code - it is the same for the whole world.

Narcissus flower color codes:

g - green (green);
o - orange (orange);
p-pink (pink);
r - red (red);
w - white (white);
y - yellow (yellow).

If there are many colors and shades in the color of the daffodil, the code can contain up to 6 characters. The first describe the color of the petal, mentally divided into three zones: from the tip to the center. Three second - the color of the crown, also divided into three zones, but already from the center to the edge of the crown.

Narcissus flowering time codes:

1 - very early;
2 - early;
3 - early medium;
4 - medium;
5 - medium-late;
6 - late.

Peduncle height codes:

1 - below 20 cm;
2 - from 20 to 40 cm;
3 - from 40 to 50 cm;
4 - above 50 cm.

See how the general code looks like on the example of one of the daffodil varieties, namely La Belle: 2-Y‑GYO, 3, 3. This means that the variety belongs to the second group (2), that the flowers have yellow petals (Y) that the crown from the center to the paradise has a green-yellow-orange (GYO) color, the flowering time of the variety is early medium (3), and the height of the peduncle (3) is from 40 to 50 cm.

International classification of daffodils:

1. Tubular

Bloom early. These classic daffodils have one big flower on a strong peduncle. The tube is equal to or longer than the perianth segments. The color is white, yellow, one- or two-color (perianth and tube of different colors). Good for open ground and for forcing.

2. Large crowned

One flower on a peduncle. The flower crown is shorter than the perianth lobes, but is more than 1/3 of their length. That is, the crown is not very long. In this group, the most diverse combination of colors of the crown and perianth lobes. Perianth white, yellow, cream. The crown is white, cream, yellow, orange, orange-red, pink. Many varieties with a border of different widths of orange, pink or red, the edge of the crown can be wavy, corrugated, bent back, similar to airy lace. Insanely beautiful flower.

3. Small crowned

The length of the crown of these daffodils is small - less than 1/3 of the length of the perianth lobe. There is one large flower on the peduncle. Perianth white, cream or yellow. The crown is often bordered, yellow-orange, apricot, pink, red, greenish. They bloom later than varieties from the first and second groups.

4. Terry

These daffodils refute our usual ideas about daffodils! On the peduncle there is one or more flowers, with a terry perianth or a terry crown, or both the crown and the perianth are terry. One or two colors: white, yellow with red, orange, pink tones. Terry daffodils have been known for over a hundred years, but they were singled out as a separate group not so long ago, since terry varieties there were very few. These beauties have a drawback - the peduncles droop when wet, so after rain or heavy watering, the peduncles tend to the ground and can break. It is better to tie terry to the supports.

5. Triandrus

On one low peduncle there may be 2-6 small hanging flowers, the petals of which are slightly pulled back. Flower tones are white, yellow, golden. The crown is small, in the form of a glass.

6. Cyclamenoid

Blooms early. On a low (15–20 cm) peduncle, one graceful flower similar to a cyclamen flower. The perianth lobes are very strongly bent back, the flower is located at an acute angle to the peduncle, with a short pedicel, the crown is narrow, long. White, yellow perianth, crown white, yellow, orange.

7. Jonquiliform

They bloom late. There are several flowers on the peduncle, the perianth lobes are prostrate or bent back, the crown is small, in the shape of a bowl. Usually its width is greater than its length. The flowers are fragrant, the leaves are narrow. Coloring yellow, white.

8. Tacetoid

They bloom late, need shelter for the winter. On a strong peduncle there are several - more than three - flowers. The perianth segments are prostrate, not tilted back, the flowers are usually fragrant, with a specific aroma. Petals are rounded, with a folded surface. Crowns are small. The leaves are wide. Coloring white, cream, yellow. Good for forcing.

9. Poetic or real

This name was given to fragrant varieties of narcissus with a large flat single flower and a very small flat crown. Poetic daffodils bloom late, they can not be transplanted for a long time, up to 6 years. The perianth segments are usually white, the crown is folded, disc-shaped, usually with a green or yellow center and a red border around the edge (sometimes one-color). Can grow not only sunny place but also in partial shade.

10. N. bulbocodium hybrids

On a low (10–15 cm) peduncle, there is one flower, the perianth lobes are very small, almost not developed, the crown is in the form of a bell. These daffodils are also called daffodils - "crinolines". They can winter well in middle latitudes, but in cold winters it is better to cover them. Good in the ground too. And for forcing.

11. Split Corona

This daffodil looks like an orchid. There is one flower on the peduncle. The crown is severely dissected, more than half. The tones of the crown are very different: white, yellow, red, pink, orange. A very beautiful flower.

12. Wild species

Natural species and their cultural forms.

Varieties of daffodils: photos, names and descriptions of plants

Beautiful tubular daffodils Spellbinder with a white crown and yellow petals, large-crowned Precocious, Oregon Snow, Manon Lescaut, Rosy Sunrise, Berlin- with a strongly corrugated bright crown. Of the small-crowned, we can recommend graceful Audubon and Lancaster, from terry - amazing Obdam, Modern Art, Delnashaugh, My Story.

You won't regret choosing split crown daffodils - amazing Chanterelle, Pink Wonder, Sunny Side Up or fragrant triandrus Thalia, cyclamenoid Wisley, Cotinga, dance Avalanche.

When buying daffodil bulbs, you can see the Top size mark on the packaging. This means that the package contains a very high quality planting material, which consists of 2-3 bulbs that have grown together. Such daffodils will bloom beautifully immediately in the first year.

Here you can see photos of varieties of daffodils, the names of which are given above:

from the group of poetic Actea, Glory of Liss, Dante(white with yellow crown);

tacetate - aspasia(white with yellow crown), Geranium(white with orange crown),

Canary Bird(light yellow with an orange-yellow crown), Laurent Coster(white with orange-yellow crown),

Red Guard(orange-yellow with orange-red crown), Jellyfish(white with orange-red crown),

Elvira(white with yellow crown and orange border); jonquilloid - Campernelli(bright yellow);

tubular - Glory of Noordwijk(yellow), Godolphin(dark yellow),

Daisy Schafer(white with yellow tube), Rembrandt Emperor(white with yellow tube).

Look at the photos of varieties of daffodils that are very popular with gardeners:

Vegetative propagation of daffodils and how to store bulbs

Varietal daffodils reproduce only vegetatively. The seed method is used when breeding new varieties. Vegetative reproduction of daffodils is based on the separation of daughter bulbs from a multi-top bulb, already having their own bottoms and only slightly, on one side, connected with the mother. When separating the children, in order not to injure the mother bulb once again, only those that break off easily are alienated. If the daughter bulbs have not completely separated with this method of propagation of daffodils, you can cut them off with part of the common bottom. The reproductive capacity of daffodils is not a constant value, depending on many factors, including the biological characteristics of the variety, the meteorological characteristics of the season, the storage conditions of the bulbs, and agricultural technology. In many modern varieties, the coefficient of vegetative propagation of marketable bulbs does not exceed 2.0-2.6, which is clearly not enough. You can increase it by shallow cuts of the bottom. For propagation of daffodils, the prepared bulbs are laid out in a warm, ventilated room with a temperature of 18-20 degrees so that they do not touch each other. After 1.5-2 months, up to 10 or more small onions are formed on the wounded surface. At good care they will flower in 3 years.

A rather productive method of propagation of daffodils is by mechanically dividing large bulbs into parts and rearing the children that form in the axils of the storage scales on the bottom.

You can propagate daffodils with paired scales. To do this, select large bulbs (4-6 cm), dug out somewhat earlier than usual. Within 7-10 days they are dried at a temperature of 19-20 degrees. Then they are cleaned of roots, covering scales and disinfected in a 0.2% solution of benlat, foundationazole or benomyl for 30 minutes. Disinfected bulbs are cut vertically into 8 parts (segments), after removing the upper part of the bulb. Each segment, in turn, is divided into paired scales with a common piece of the bottom. Optimal is paired scales, the mass of which exceeds 1 g.

And how to store daffodil bulbs to ensure good germination? Prepared scales are disinfected in the same solution as the bulbs, poured into plastic bags, pre-mixed with wet perlite or peat, tied tightly and stored at a temperature of 18-20 degrees. With proper storage of daffodil bulbs, after 12-16 weeks, bulbs form between the scales at the bottom and near the base of the scales. In October-November they are ready for planting. They are separated from the scales, pickled in a 0.2% benlate solution for 20 minutes and planted in boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand in a ratio (3:1). In winter, boxes with onions are kept in a cool place with a temperature of 5-10 degrees. In the second year of cultivation, the bulbs increase in size, and their weight reaches 12-20g. Grow them in open ground.

Distillation of daffodil bulbs at home

For forcing daffodils at home, it is best to take bulbs of early or medium-early varieties with white or bright colors of flowers.

Bulbs of the following varieties are used for forcing daffodils:

Narcissus poetic, or real (Narcisus poeticus L.). Homeland - Central and Southern Europe. Differs in linear leaves, the flower arrow is always one-color. The flower is pure white, fragrant, the crown along the edges is red, wavy. The bulb is large.

Tatsett (N. Tazetta L.). It is found in Southern Europe, North Africa, Asia Minor, China, Japan. With linear leaves, multicolor (4-20 flowers) flower arrow. There are forms with a white flower and a yellow crown, a yellow flower and a white crown, simple and double. The bulb is large.

jonkilly (N. Jonquilla L.). From Southwest Europe, Northwest Africa. The leaves are cylindrical, on the flower arrow 2-6 strongly fragrant, bright yellow, with a serrated crown of flowers. The bulb is small. Well-developed bulbs are planted in late August or early September (poetic and tacet-shaped - 3 each, jonkill-shaped 6-8 each) in pots with a diameter of 14 cm with compost soil and river sand, completely immersed in the soil, and above the surface leaving only a long neck. Then the pots are transferred to a frost-free room with a low temperature, watered, closely placed next to each other, covered with earth with a layer of 10 cm.

Daffodil bulbs differ from hyacinth and tulip bulbs in that there are both single-top and multi-top bulbs among them, so you need to stock up on a sufficient number of single-top bulbs. How to do it? If you dig up part of the daffodils every year, and not once every 5-6 years, as I and my friends growers do, then one-top bulbs will be enough for forcing. You just need not to get carried away and not dig out all the daffodils every year - with annual digging, they begin to multiply worse. Sometimes I use. For distillation and double-topped bulbs.

The technology for forcing daffodils consists of several stages. In plants that are intended for reproduction, the leaves are removed at the end of July, without waiting until above-ground part will fade. Then the bulbs are sorted and the most attractive and largest, about 4 cm in diameter, are selected from the single-top ones. Store them in a barn or basement at a temperature of about 17 ° C until early October. As soon as the roots appear, it's time to plant daffodils. Plant bulbs in pots. Can be planted in any container (at least 12 cm high) with drainage holes.

Usually such a substrate is used for planting: ordinary earth from the garden in half with sawdust. Some gardeners use only sawdust and daffodils are perfectly driven out.

Fill the pots with the substrate to 2/3 of their height, and then plant 5 bulbs in each pot. Top part bulbs should be slightly above the level of the rim of the pot. The substrate is poured into pots, watered and buried in the area. The planting is covered with sand or earth - you can use peat - a layer of 20 cm. With the onset of cold weather, they cover it with leaves, spruce branches or peat - the layer is also about 20 cm, roofing material is placed on top.

You can put the pots in any cool place on the street, so long as it is not flooded with water. Under a container with bulbs, then an ordinary film is useful for flooring. You can lay branches of spruce or pine on it, put containers with daffodils on the branches, and you can cover them with straw on top - mice that will certainly start in the straw, daffodils are not afraid, they are poisonous to mice. And you can cover well with spruce or pine branches.

Bulbs need two and a half to three months to root. In mid-January, the pots are dug up and placed for one or two days in a cool room (in the basement, on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator) at a temperature of 10 ° C, wrapping the pots with black paper. Water the daffodils two days later. Then they will be in the light at a temperature not higher than 12–15 ° C, for example, in glazed loggia. At higher temperatures, the stems of daffodils are very lengthened, you need to put props. And the flowers will be small. A month after taking the pots out into the light, daffodils should bloom.

It has been noticed that if daffodils are driven out after January, they do not even have to be kept in the light, and they will bloom so beautifully.

Daffodils do not need fertilizing during forcing, but they need to be watered often. It is desirable that the leaves do not get wet.

Daffodils of very early varieties can be expelled at an earlier date. With a later forcing, the forcing time is reduced, but the plants can hit hard in growth, then they will need props.

After distillation, daffodil bulbs are planted in May in the garden. This year they do not give leaves. For re-forcing, they grow them for three or four years to required size, digging bulbs every year.

Growing daffodils in open ground: planting bulbs and caring for flowers (with photo and video)

Before planting daffodils in open ground, it is recommended to treat the bulbs with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate or Hom fungicide (40 g per 5 liters of water), this is more effective.

The planting depth of the bulbs depends on the size of the bulbs and ranges from 12 to 20 cm, sometimes up to 25 cm for the largest bulbs.

The average planting depth is 15 cm, on heavy soils - 12, on light soils - 17, bulbs for children - 10 cm from the bottom. When planting daffodils in open ground, for ease of care between the bulbs in a row, a distance of 10–12 cm should be observed. With such a dense planting, the bulbs are larger, and with a rare one, they form more children.

After planting the bulbs of daffodils, the ground is mulched with peat or humus with a layer of 3–4 cm. When the soil freezes by 4–5 cm, the daffodils are additionally covered with foliage with a layer of 20 cm. When growing and caring for daffodils, do not forget that plants freeze more often on light, dry soils, than on heavy and wet.

The video "Planting daffodils" shows how to place the bulbs in the garden:

In the spring, after the snow melts, the shelter is removed from the daffodils, and the mulch layer is left.

One of the conditions for growing daffodils is the right choice of site. Groundwater should be no higher than 50–60 cm, otherwise, in seasons with heavy rainfall, the tips of the roots of daffodils may die off, which will lead to poor growth.

Daffodils are shade-tolerant, but in lighted places the quality of their flowers and bulbs is much higher. When grown outdoors, daffodils adapt well to any local conditions. Plants can grow in a flower bed, under the crowns of trees, on a lawn or lawn. Daffodils can grow without a transplant for 4-5 years. They should be transplanted when they grow strongly, forming large nests of bulbs.

Daffodils are undemanding to the soil, they are grown on any garden soil, but loamy soil with sufficient nutrition and a neutral reaction is most suitable.

To increase the nutrient content, it is necessary to make compost, humus. Daffodils do not tolerate manure, so it can only be applied under the previous crop. Liming of the soil is recommended to be carried out a year before planting the bulbs: add 200 g of fluff lime or dolomite flour per 1 m2, and wood ash, which helps to reduce soil acidity, is applied every year in the spring when plants appear at the rate of 1 glass per 1 m2.

Top dressing is usually carried out two. The first - during the budding period: dilute 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate per 10 liters of water, spending a solution of 5 liters per 1 m2. The second top dressing is carried out during the beginning of flowering: for 10 liters of water, dilute 1 teaspoon of nitrophoska, Humatakalia for garden flowers and Intermag for flowers and ornamental crops (solution consumption - up to 5 l / 1 m2).

Liquid dressings can be replaced with dry ones, especially in rainy summers, while carrying out only one top dressing in early spring - scatter fertilizers per 1 m2: 1 teaspoon of superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea, "Potassium humate" for garden flowers and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of wood ash.

The soil of the site for planting daffodils is prepared in the summer or at least a month before planting the bulbs so that it has time to settle. The earth is dug up to a depth of 35 cm, then 3–4 kg of compost and peat are added, and a bucket is used on heavy soils. river sand and overripe humus. From mineral fertilizers - 2 tbsp are applied per 1 m2. spoons of superphosphate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and "Intermag" for flowers and ornamental crops (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water, solution consumption - up to 5 l / 1 m2). Then they dig it up a second time to close up the fertilizer to a depth of 10–12 cm. This can also be done with an iron rake. In this form, the site is left until the fall, that is, before the bulbs are planted.

Daffodil bulbs are planted when the heat subsides - at the end of August, during September. Before planting, the bulbs are well looked through and all suspicious with spots, soft and damaged are removed.

If the weather is hot, dry in May and June, then daffodils should be watered from the time of growth until the leaves begin to wither. Watering after flowering promotes the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb. The bulbs are usually dug up in July, when the leaves and roots have dried up.

If the bulbs are not dug up, then after drying, the leaves are cut off and the soil is loosened with a rake, preventing weeds from developing. In the second half of August, if the weather is dry, be sure to water it, as the growth of roots begins at this time.

The photo of planting and caring for daffodils shows how to grow these flowers:

Control of diseases and pests of daffodils

Compared to other bulb crops, daffodils suffer less from diseases and pests. Of pests greatest danger represent the narcissus fly and bulbous hoverfly. In appearance, lifestyle and the nature of the damage they cause, they are similar to each other. Harm the larvae. Having penetrated inside the bulb through the top, bottom or mechanically damaged areas of tissues, they penetrate its juicy parts with passages. In a badly damaged bulb, only the walls remain, the inside turns into a black rotting mass.

Control measures. To reduce the degree of infection, during the growing season it is recommended to periodically spray the plants with a 0.3% solution of karbofos. Instead of spraying, the tape application of granulated bazudine (0.3 g / m 3) into the soil is effective. It will make it difficult for the larvae to penetrate the bulb and a simple agricultural method - loosening the surface of the site after harvesting the leaves.

The stem nematode, a microscopic filamentous pest, is also widespread. Overwinters in bulbs, in soil, on plant debris. Nematodes lay their eggs in plant tissues, penetrating into the bulbs through the bottom or stomata of leaves, larvae hatch there, which, like adult nematodes, feed on plant sap. Narcissuses affected by the nematode are stunted, the leaves are bent and thickened in the lower part, gradually turn yellow and dry out. White spots appear on the bulbs. When cutting the bulbs, you can see that the internal tissues have a loose structure of brown or gray. The scales of the affected bulb do not adhere tightly to each other, so it becomes soft to the touch. Due to the growth of the storage inner scales, the outer scales crack. With a strong infection, the bottom of the bulbs becomes rotten and disappears, the bulb dies.

Control measures with stem nematodes - agrotechnical, providing for the introduction of crop rotation, in which daffodils can be returned to their original place no earlier than after 4-5 years, and in the interval not to grow plants affected by the nematode on it. Nice results gives bulbs treatment with hot water (43-45 degrees) for 2-3 hours. The soil where the daffodils affected by the nematode grew is disinfected with Milon (60g / m2) 30-40 days before planting. Protects daffodils from nematodes and sowing between them calendula or tagedes, the root secretions of which attract pests and kill them.

Root bulb mite is a ubiquitous pest. It affects bulbs during the growing season and during storage. Settling on the bulb, the mite wears out the bottom, which turns into a rotten mass. Having penetrated inside the bulb, the mite feeds on scales. The affected areas are easy to detect by yellow-brown stripes, lines on the scales and mealy secretions of the tick.

Control measures. To protect the bulbs from damage by ticks during storage, it is necessary to disinfect the storage before loading with sulfur dioxide (80-100 g / m3), maintain the air humidity in it no higher than 70%, pickle the bulbs with a 0.3% solution of one of the preparations: fundazol, rogor, cidal, bazudin, carbicron for 20 minutes.

Of the diseases, Fusarium bulb rot is the most common, which mainly affects daffodils during storage, and is less common in the field. In diseased plants, the leaves turn yellow and are relatively easily pulled out. The roots of the bulbs rot and fall off the bottom. On the bottom, visible scales white coating(fungal mycelium). The fungus penetrates deeply into the tissues of the bulbs, which soften and turn brown. Outward signs of bulb disease in storage are manifested in the fact that the tissues in the area of the bottom and the bases of the scales soften, turn brown, chocolate brown, and sometimes brick red. The rot gradually spreads up the scales. Fusarium most often develops when the bulbs are dug up late, affecting them during storage, especially if the bulbs were dug out in wet weather and were poorly dried before storage or, conversely, were exposed to high temperatures (24-27C) and direct sunlight for a long time. time. Having found bulbs sick with Fusarium, it is necessary to immediately disinfect healthy ones with a 0.2% solution of foundationazole or topsin for 20 minutes. During the growing season, preventive treatments of plants with fungicides are carried out: benlat, foundationazole at a concentration of 0.2% or captan at a concentration of 0.5% with a flow rate of working fluid from 80 to 120 ml/m2.

Gray rot- a disease that actively develops in spring in cold rainy weather, especially in low areas with heavy soils. The plant becomes infected in the field, and during the storage of bulbs in cold and humid conditions, the disease progresses. The bases of the leaves are affected, especially on one side, where brown depressed spots are formed, which further grow. The leaves turn yellow from the bottom up and dry out before flowering. With an excess of moisture, a gray coating appears on the dead parts of the leaves, small spots on the flowers, and wet rot on the bulbs. Black sclerotia are formed on the surface of the affected tissues.

Control measures. During the appearance of the first foci of the disease, daffodils are sprayed with captan or benlat at a concentration of 0.15-0.2%. They are processed several times with an interval of 8-10 days. Sick bulbs are discarded and destroyed.

Overdose organic fertilizers cause sclerotial rot. In affected plants, the leaves turn yellow, wither, and then completely dry out. Bulbs under the influence of the pathogen soften, become covered with abundant mycelium, radiantly diverging in the form of long white threads, and die.

Control measures: early digging, deep plowing of infected areas, proper crop rotation, destruction of affected plants.

In low, damp areas, penicillosis may occur. In diseased plants, leaves and flower stalks are deformed, light yellow spots of various sizes and shapes form on the leaves near the surface of the earth. The affected areas soften, rot and become covered with blue-green spores of the pathogen. On the bulbs, penicillosis is easily detected by spots covered with bluish-greenish sporulation of the fungus. The disease develops very intensively during storage on poorly dried bulbs at high relative humidity.

Control measures: reduction of relative air humidity to 60-65%, storage ventilation, dusting of affected bulbs with a mixture of sulfur and polycarbacin in a ratio of 1:1.

Stagonosporosis- develops in early spring during a cold snap. On the leaves, first in the upper part, then along the entire leaf blade along the main vein, spots of a rounded or oval-elongated shape appear. A chlorotic (lighter) zone is visible around the spots. As the spots dry out, pycnidia (receptacles of asexual spores of the fungus) are formed, clearly visible to the naked eye, small, black, convex, arranged randomly or more often in zones. Stagonosporosis is very rare on bulbs. The disease is clearly visible 4-8 weeks before the onset of the natural death of the leaves.

Control measures: at the first signs of the disease, the plants are sprayed with fungicides (0.5% Bordeaux liquid, 0.4% polycarbacin or 0.3% figon, etc.). After 10-12 days, the treatment is repeated.

Daffodils are also affected by viral diseases of various nature. Strokes and stripes appear on the leaves (light, yellow, silvery), spots on the flowers irregular shape lighter than the main tone. There are no visually detectable symptoms on the bulbs.

Control measures. The disease is extremely dangerous; its spread can only be prevented by digging up and destroying diseased plants.

Prevention from diseases and pests consists of several methods. It is necessary to apply optimal doses of fertilizers to the soil. An excess of phosphorus and nitrogen contributes to the development of fusarium, potash fertilizers increase resistance to it. Daffodils cannot be planted on an infected area for 5 years. The boxes in which the bulbs are stored must be disinfected. Weak and diseased bulbs must be destroyed immediately after digging. Bulbs need to be cleaned of old scales and roots in time, stored at a temperature not higher than +18 ° C and humidity not higher than 60%.

Against fungal diseases, before planting, the bulbs of daffodils must be soaked for half an hour in a solution of the Maxim preparation.

A decrease in the number of flowering plants serves as a signal for transplanting daffodils. Immediately after the leaves turn yellow, you can start digging up the bulbs. It is advisable to do this on time, because the bulbs will quickly begin to root. In addition, late digging of the bulbs can reduce their quality.

The dug bulbs must first of all be carefully examined, removed and destroyed if diseased or rotten. Healthy bulbs are thoroughly cleaned, sorted by size, washed, disinfected in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate and left to dry in the open air in shallow boxes or boxes without access to sunlight. The storage temperature should not exceed +17 °C and the room should be ventilated frequently.

–Perennial spring garden flowers of the Amaryllis family. There are more than 25 thousand varieties of daffodils, which are classified into 13 groups, of which only one group is a wild species (about 60 subspecies), the rest are selective. In the natural environment, they are common in Eastern and Western Europe, Asia, and northern Africa. A favorite habitat where you can meet the most beautiful daffodils is mountain alpine meadows and forests.

Did you know?The flower got its name from the name of the beautiful young man Narcissus. An ancient Greek myth says that a young man, seeing his reflection in the water, could not turn away and leave, his face seemed so beautiful to him. Struck by his own beauty, he died by the pond from admiration and hopeless love for himself. And at the place of his death, delicate beautiful flowers appeared, and they were called - daffodils. That is why in Ancient Greece they were considered the flowers of the dead.

The color of flowers in all species is diverse - cream, pink, yellow, white-orange, sand, white and various variations white and yellow combinations. The leaves of the flower are basal, green, different types their width, length and shade are different. The bulbs are brownish, covered with scales, rounded, oval or elongated.

The cultivation of daffodils is becoming more and more widespread - both because of the decorative properties that they possess, and because of the relative cheapness of acquiring these flowers for planting. Next, all types of daffodils with a description will be presented.

Their flower crown is the same length as the petals or slightly longer, which is why it resembles a gramophone tube - hence the name. There is one flower on the stem with a diameter of 7 to 13 cm, the peduncle is strong and tall.

Tubes - red, white, orange, yellow. The flowers are white and yellow or yellow-white at the tips. They are garden daffodils, bloom well in winter. Looks great in a vase and bouquets. These types of daffodils grow and develop well in our climate. These include the following varieties:

white - Kantara, White Knight, Peter Bahr, Birshiba, Madame de Graf;
yellow - Maximus, Dutch Master, Obvallaris, Ballad, Albert Schweitzer, Birscheba, Golden Harvist, Hans Christian Andersen, Premble, Golden Medal, Celebreti, Golden Harvist, King Alfred, Lunar C, Easten Bonnet, Golden Spar, Musical Hall, Little Jam, Point Barrow, Mount Hood, Pseudonarcissus, Henry Irving;
barely perceptible cream color - variety Milner;
bicolor tubular varieties of daffodils - very fragrant yellowish-white Spring Glory and Garden Imperor, Impress.

These garden daffodils have the largest crown-shaped inflorescences of all species - up to 12 cm in diameter or more. The inflorescence consists of six identical lobes and an elongated wavy crown. The colors of the crowns are rich orange, pink, yellow, white, red. Petals white, orange, yellow. Peduncle solitary, long - up to 50 cm in height, tubular.

Around it are 2 - 4 narrow leaves. But their tubers are mostly small - up to 3 cm in diameter. Large-crowned daffodils are very popular with flower growers, their best varieties are Anthea, Voa, Konfuoco, Smaragd, Kentucky Cardinal, Lagerlef, Velasquez, Daydream, Fortune, Carlton, Mount Tekoma, Tibet, Curly, Modern Art, Ringleader, Record, Mercato, Flower, Shi, Orange Progress, Selma, Professor Einstein, Rococo , Salome, Prekoshes, Sound Semiramis, Royal Orange, Lady Bird, Scarlet.

Inflorescences with a diameter of 5-8 cm with a low crown - no more than 2/3 of the length of the perianth. The color of the crown is white, pink, yellow-orange, red in the center with a green eye. The peduncle is low and strong. it universal view daffodils - they are quite unpretentious, easily take root, grow well without creating any special conditions.

They are great for forcing and gardening, as well as for cutting into bouquets. Varieties of small-crowned daffodils - State Fair, Amor, Jewel, Matapat, Barrett, Audubon, Altruist, Browning, Verona, Chinese White, Burma, Lymerick, Verger, Epricot.

Did you know?For small-crowned daffodils, a bordered crown is often characteristic.

They have either a terry crown, or the whole flower is terry. The crown can be white, yellow, bright orange, red. Perianth - white, yellow, yellow-orange. They have one or more inflorescences on a peduncle.

For example, terry multi-flowered daffodils varieties Yellow Chirfulnes. Other varieties - Ice King, Van Season, Replit, Modern Art, Irene Copeland, Texas, Acropolis, Golden Ducket, Tahiti, Obdam, Exotic Beauty, Manly, Rip van Winkle, Indiana Chief, Dorchester, White Lyon, Fashion, Mary Copeland. Well rooted, relatively unpretentious, suitable for lawns, gardens and cutting.

Stunningly beautiful, decorative with the correct rounded shape of the flower. They have a noticeably dissected crown with, as it were, a second row of petals. This effect is created due to the fact that the six free lobules of the crown grow together only at the base. This species has one inflorescence up to 11-12 cm in diameter on a long peduncle. The color of the inflorescences is white with pink, white, yellow, white.

Flowers are universal: indoor, garden and cut. Light-loving - avoid shading when planting, warming is necessary in winter. One of the best varieties Baccarat, Dolly Molinger, Cassata, King Size, Modesta, Palmares, Lemon Beauty, Chanterelle, Canasta Baccarat, Orangerie, Split Corona. The flowers of the Split Crown variety have an incredibly attractive appearance - they look like an exotic butterfly or orchid.

Triandrus, triandrus daffodils

Hybrid, garden, miniature, with a small goblet-shaped crown with all the signs of three-stamen daffodils. Very narrow and rather long (sometimes longer than the perianth) tube with perianth segments bent at a large angle backwards.

Flowers on a low peduncle drooping, with single or multiple inflorescences - from two to six. The color of the crowns is yellow, pale yellow, yellow-green, white, golden. Triandrus look great in flower beds, suitable for complex flower arrangements, rock gardens, but they are not cold-resistant, this must be taken into account when disembarking. Varieties - Tresemble, Ice, Liberty Bells, Wings, Havera, Stoke, Talia.

Not higher than 20 cm in height, they look like cyclamen. Peduncle with one inflorescence, flower drooping, with petals shifted back. The crown-tube is long and narrow. Characterized by early flowering, look great in alpine slides, borders, flower beds. Varieties - Beryl, Tête-à-tête, Baby Dowell, Andalusia, Jenny, Jetfi, Jack Sneal, February Silver, Piping Tom.

Important!For the rapid and full development of daffodils, clay must be present in the soil.

Heat-loving, unusually fragrant (their essential oils used in perfumery) and graceful daffodils. On the peduncle there can be from one to six inflorescences with a short crown. The leaves are thin, flexible, the stem is up to 35-40 cm high.

Very interesting jonquill-like daffodils yellow varieties Baby Moon - with very small inflorescences. Basically, all varieties of this species are sensitive to cold, but in the southern regions they can grow without transplants up to 6-7 years. Common varieties - Suzy, Cherie, Golden Chain, Sweetness, Trevitien, Hill Star, Step Forward, Belle Zong, Pipit, Hesla.

On the peduncle is a single inflorescence with a small crown and trumpet. A tube with a bright red border is a feature of the daytime species. The inflorescence has six pure white petals. Peduncle up to 40-45 cm high, narrow gray-green leaves. They have a sophisticated fragile appearance and a pleasant, subtle aroma, for which they got their name. They require shelter for the winter. Varieties - Margaret Mitchell, Sarchedon, Red Rome Actea, Milan.

Narrow-leaved daffodils growing naturally in groups and even entire fields. They have white, pale yellow, cream inflorescences with red or orange edging. On the territory of the CIS, this species grows in the Carpathians - in the Valley of Narcissuses.

In Europe, in the Alps. Found in Russia, Italy, Greece, Romania, Great Britain, Monaco. The narrow-leaved species is unpretentious, but prefers the mild, humid climate of the Mediterranean.

Did you know?The ancient Romans, unlike the ancient Greeks, considered daffodils the flowers of the victors, garlands and wreaths of them were a symbol of victory in battles. In China, the daffodil is still a symbol of the upcoming New Year. And in Chinese medicine, narcissus takes pride of place as an excellent remedy for treating mastitis.

multi-flowered daffodils

The peduncle of these garden daffodils is crowned with eight or more flowers, forming a magnificent "cap", due to which one stem looks like a small bouquet. The color of the inflorescences is white, apricot-beige, yellow. The crown is light or bright orange.

Narcissus, or Narcissus, belongs to the genus of monocot plants and is a member of the Amaryllis family. Features are the presence of bulbs and ribbon-like leaves of different widths. The flowers are located on top of leafless stems, which are covered with a membranous streak.

Features of daffodils

Flowers can be single or arranged in several pieces at once. The perianth is petal-shaped and looks like a tubular funnel, which passes into a straightened limb. It consists of six identical parts. Appearance flower - a solid or lobed bell with six stamens and a trihedral lower ovary.

The presence of a strong, intoxicatingly sweet smell, made it possible to use narcissus oil in perfumery in ancient times. Narcissus is very common in Europe. It is especially grown in Mediterranean countries. There are varieties and species that grow in Asia, Japan and China.

Trumpet
small-cupped
Triandrus
Jonquilla and Apodanthus
Poeticus
Split Corona: Collar
Miscellaneous
Large-cupped
Double
Cyclamineus
Tazetta
Bulbocodium
Split Corona: Papillon
Species

Photo gallery

Varieties of daffodils

In nature, there are about 60 species of these flowers. In addition, it was possible to withdraw a huge number different varieties and hybrids of this magnificent flower. The narcissus selection has been replenished with 35,000 new varieties.

The following types of daffodils have the greatest popularity and demand among flower growers:

Tubular, or trumpet. It is distinguished by the presence of large, single flowers, which have a crown in the form of a bell with a very long tube. The color scheme is represented by white, yellow, less often two-color flowers.
Large-crowned, or large-cupped. The special sizes of a single flower and bract are characteristic. A short crown occupies a third of the perianth. The color scheme is very diverse.
Small-crowned, or small-cupped. This group of daffodils closely resembles natural and wild varieties. The flowers are quite small in size. Most often they can be seen in the photo of wildlife.
Terry, or double. This group of daffodils contains several subgroups at once. They come with additional perianth segments; with a terry tube or crown; with terry perianth; have several flowers on one peduncle. A photo of terry daffodils most often adorns calendars.
Triandrus, or Triandrus. This species belongs to the multi-flowered daffodils, in the breeding of which the three-stamen daffodil was involved. The color scheme is white or yellow.
Cyclamenoid, or Cyclamineus. It is distinguished by the presence of characteristic drooping, solitary flowers, which, with their length, have a narrow tube and bent perianth lobes.
Jonquilla, or Jonquilla. Low stems are equipped with a significant number of small, strongly smelling flowers. Highly decorative look daffodil.
Multi-flowered, or Bunch-flowered. The name of this type of daffodils speaks for itself. The peduncle may have more than eight flowers. Photos of such daffodils can often be found in magazines.

Interesting combinations of daffodils with other plants

Daffodils are flowers that look great in combination with other plants. An interesting and bright floral ensemble allows you to get a combination of daffodils and tulips. Suitable neighbors for daffodils, with which you can decorate a modern flower garden, are hyacinths, crocuses and pushkinias.

Rules for planting daffodils

Daffodils are perennial flowers. They are shade-tolerant, but at the same time they are light-loving plants. Daffodils are unpretentious, planting does not take much time and effort. These hardy flowers prefer regular garden soil and moderate moisture. The best places for planting are loamy soils with medium shade. A month before planting, fertilizer should be applied to the soil, as well as sand and peat.

Landing takes place at the end of September. This period allows the bulbs to take root even before frost. You can grow daffodils in a pot. Healthy daffodil bulbs should be treated with a disinfectant solution. The pot is filled with light and nutritious soil mixture. Optimum temperature for growth is 20 °C.

Transplantation of these flowers is not required for several years. It is recommended to grow them in one place for no longer than six seasons.

Care for daffodils

Daffodils and their planting require careful attention. Basic care and feeding must be carried out three times per season. The first feeding is carried out immediately after the emergence of shoots. The second - during the budding period, and the third corresponds to the flowering stage. Daffodils do not need top dressing after flowering. You can learn about by reading an article posted in one of our previous publications.

For bouquets, flowers should not be cut, but broken out. This method is less traumatic for a flowering plant.

For reproduction and wintering, only healthy and high-quality planting material should be left. Bulbs of daffodils should be elastic and large. The covering scales should have a healthy white or yellowish color. Peeling scales can be a sign of various fungal diseases.

The flowering period of daffodils is relatively long and stretches to April-June. In the northern regions, which are characterized by severe winters, daffodils must be covered just before the onset of stable frosts.

Diseases and pests

Like other plants and flowers, daffodils are prone to various diseases, and also often become an object of nutrition for some pests.

Fusarium okusporum f. narcissi causes the severe Fusarium disease in daffodils;
Sclerotinia narcissicola infects daffodils with sclerocial rot.

Daffodils are susceptible to viral diseases and attack by the following pests:

root, bulbous and stem nematodes;
narcissus and bulbous flies;
thrips.

Variety daffodils (video)

Reviews and comments

(2 ratings, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Marina 14.04.2016

Recently I bought several narcissus bulbs already with sprouts, but without roots (although I found the beginnings of roots in one). I want to put it on the run. I plan to do this: hold for 30 minutes in potassium permanganate, then soak in the root for several hours and plant in a pot. And what to do with them next? What is the best way to root? Put in the refrigerator in the fruit compartment or put on the windowsill, and after rooting in the refrigerator? I don’t know if they were kept in the cold before, but I want to try, suddenly something will work out. Do daffodils, like tulips, need a period in the cold to lay buds?

Valeria 17.04.2016

For a long time, my love with daffodils was not mutual, and only last year for the first time they pleased with their flowering. Moreover, the old ones, living on the site for more than 6 years and newly purchased, also bloomed. After that I bought more daffodils. And now I'm looking forward to it. This year, even 2 varieties of flower stalks were released, which I bought 4 years ago and it seemed that they had completely died, but last year the leaves were released, and this year the flower stalks.

Elena 04/17/2016

I prefer to plant daffodils in the spring, because. you can immediately see where which bulbs grow and where to dig them out. Otherwise, then some of the bulbs will be lost and remain in the ground, and some of the varieties will be confused with each other. The main thing is to carefully dig with a pitchfork (grab deeper so that the roots are less damaged), it is advisable to do this not on a hot sunny day (so that the roots do not dry out) and plant as soon as possible after digging.

Inna 19.05.2016

Little advice For lovers of these beautiful flowers, Daffodils can be planted both in an open sunny place and among trees and shrubs that do not give a dense shade in spring. In an open place, they bloom earlier and more amicably, but on a slightly shaded one, the flowering is longer, the peduncles are longer, the color lasts longer, does not fade.

Milena 19.05.2016

I have been planting my daffodils since the beginning of August although recommended best time for planting - the second half of August and the beginning of September (this is for purchased bulbs). If you are growing your own daffodils, then first dig up the bulbs, separate the children and immediately plant them again.

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Which variety to choose?

In the variety of varieties of daffodils, you can get confused.

The selection is in full swing, - said Tatiana Evgenievna. - Flowers have become very different in shape and color. Apricot tones, pink and even almost red appeared in the colors of daffodils. Classical daffodils - they are called poetic - are still the most fragrant of all groups, but now they are also the most modest in appearance and color.

Terry daffodils. Now this group of daffodils is in unprecedented demand among flower growers - it is very elegant! Some flowers have double petals, while others have a core. It looks very impressive.

variety "Manly"

Large crowned daffodils. A very interesting group of daffodils. They sometimes have the size of the crown (core) is almost equal to the size of the flower. New varieties are usually in a contrasting color. For example, a bright orange crown against a background of yellow petals.

Variety "Bantam"

Split crown daffodils. it little known band daffodils, but what an unusual! The name literally translates as "split crown".

These daffodils have a dissected core, as if the daffodil does not have it at all, but in two skirts of petals.

Particularly interesting in this group are the varieties: "Palmares" (the core is pale pink against a background of white petals), "Changing Colors" (changes color during the season), and the novelty of this season's variety "Waltz" has an apricot crown.

Variety "Waltz"

Tubular daffodils. Their flower core is elongated like a tube.

This group of daffodils is very well illustrated by the Mount Hood variety, where the flower looks so amazing, as if made of porcelain.

cultivar "Mount Hood"

Tacety daffodils. This group includes multi-flowered daffodils. Their flowers are not large, but there are many of them.

They can be with terry centers, upright and drooping, as, for example, in the Thalia variety.

variety "Thalia"

Botanical daffodils. They have tiny flowers, which are especially good for landscaping alpine slides, for planting in the foreground of flower beds, between stones.

There is an amazing variety " Rip van Winkley", In which the flowers are double, tiny, yellow, resemble stars and look great. This variety of daffodils is one of the first to bloom and gives the garden a sunny hue in any weather.

variety "Rip van Winkley"

Care: cut the leaves - daffodils will not bloom

In care, daffodils are not at all capricious, if only because they do not need to be dug up annually.

In one place, daffodils grow for 4-5 years, and then they need to be dug up to be planted. Bulbs multiply over time, become larger, then they simply do not have enough space, and they begin to overwhelm each other. In order for flowering to please from year to year, the bulbs must be transplanted.

To the soil, daffodils are unpretentious: they grow quite well both on loam and on sandy and peat soils.

The only caveat: if you have heavy soil, then when planting, it is recommended to add a little sand or peat, which, when moisture stagnates (especially during the rainy season), will save the bulbs from rotting. The sand will act as drainage.

As daffodils grow, you need to feed them four times a season. In the first three top dressings make a complete mineral fertilizer: during germination, during the formation of buds and during flowering. The last top dressing is done after the end of flowering: phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied.

But not all summer residents know that by cutting the leaves of daffodils after flowering, they will no longer receive abundant flowering next year.

During the death of the leaves, the accumulation of nutrients in the bulb occurs, what is necessary for further flowering, - explained Tatyana Evgenievna. - Therefore, the leaves should not be cut. If you are afraid of the unsightly appearance of faded daffodils, try, before they bloom, plant seedlings of annuals that have arrived nearby or, for example, plant daylilies and peonies nearby. You can remove the foliage only when it completely dries and turns yellow.

And do not forget to remove the flowers immediately after flowering. If they are left, then the plant will spend its strength on the formation of seeds, which will take away the strength of the bulb and prevent it from ripening.

BY THE WAY

It is necessary to plant daffodils, like all bulbous plants, when the soil temperature drops to +10 degrees. It is at this temperature that the ideal rooting of the bulb occurs. If you plant daffodil bulbs at a later date, then you need to deepen the bulbs a little more and slightly cover the planting site to prevent freezing.

ON A NOTE

On autumn days, in addition to tulips and daffodils, you can also plant other bulbous flowers. For example, bright hyacinths, botanical irises, decorative bows, muscari, hazel grouse, crocuses.

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Daffodils are decorative perennials. They are perennial bulbous plants amaryllis family. The flowers are usually yellow or white, solitary or several at the top of the peduncle. Many people love these flowers and plant them for improvement.

The purity of "friendly eyes" looks at us in spring garden. A garden without daffodils, their charm, delicate, exquisite beauty and delicate aroma of flowers loses a lot. Plant just a few bulbs of this unpretentious plant in any corner and you will see their beautiful bowed heads.

About 60 species of narcissus are known, which are common in the Mediterranean. Narcissus loves alpine meadows, mountain slopes, lowlands, mountain valleys.

Narcissists - what are they? Daffodils with an overview by group

The Latin name for narcissus is Narcissus Poeticus. It comes from the Greek words "narkao" - to intoxicate, stun and "poeticus" (poetic) - evoking a poetic mood. Daffodils are always beautiful.

According to the modern classification, all varieties are divided into eleven groups. Groups are determined by the ratio of the length of the petals to the height of the crown, the number of flowers on one peduncle, the color of the perianth segments and the crown. Let's analyze each group separately.

Tubular

Flowers solitary. The tube is the same size or longer than the perianth segments. In turn, the group is divided into subgroups, distinguished by the color of the same color and tube:

in the first subgroup, the perianth and tube are colored (the latter is slightly paler)
in the second subgroup - the perianth is white, and the tube is colored
in the third subgroup - all white
in the fourth subgroup - a different combination of colors

Large crowned

Flowers solitary. The height of the crown is more than one third of the length of the perianth lobes. Large-crowned daffodils are divided into subgroups in the same way as tubular ones.

crowned

Flowers solitary, crown no more than a third of the length of the perianth lobes. They are divided into subgroups in the same way as tubular and large-crowned.

Terry

They are called by the doubleness of the flowers.

Triandrusaceae

Flowers drooping. The first subgroup includes those plants in which the crown is larger in size, and the second - less than two thirds of the length of the perianth lobes.

Cyclamenoid

As with triandrus plants, the flowers are drooping. The perianth segments are strongly bent outwards. The division into subgroups is similar to the fifth group.

Jonquiliform

The flowers are collected in brushes of two to six on one peduncle. The group is divided into subgroups:

in the first subgroup - the crown is larger
in the second subgroup - less than two thirds of the length of the perianth lobes

Tacetoid

Flowers (from three to twelve) are collected in inflorescences.

Poetic (real)

Flowers solitary. The crown is saucer-shaped, much shorter than the length of the perianth lobes.

Wild and their hybrids

Other

This group includes those plants that are not included in any of the ten groups.

All types of narcissus are very poisonous.

Daffodils - photo: Daffodils with variety name and photo

Modern varieties pleasantly surprise with rather unusual shapes and a wide range of colors - from snow-white to cream-white, creamy - and greenish-white and from lemon yellow to bright saffron yellow, dark orange. Among the latest breeding novelties there are even outlandish white and pink colors of flamingos.

Variety - Orange (Orangery)

Variety - Palmares (Palmares)

Sort - Intrigue (Intrique)

Variety - Flowerbed (Floverdrift)

Variety - Dear Love (Dear Love)

Variety - Good mood (Narcissus Erlicheer)

Sort - Rainbow (Rainbow of Colors)

Variety - Glorius (Gloriosus)

Variety - Florali (Floralie)

Narcissus Floralie

Variety - Chanterelle

Variety - Trepolo (Trepolo)

Sort - Berlin (Berlin)

Variety - Flyer (Flyer)

Variety - Irene Copeland (Irene Copeland)

Daffodils - planting and care

Narcissus, like the tulip, belongs to ephemeroid plants, that is, vegetative in spring and early summer. Its flowering is long and depends on the variety and weather conditions. By selecting varieties, you can extend the period of flowering daffodils to thirty or more days. Usually, in open ground, they bloom in the second half of May.

Landing (reproduction)

Daffodils reproduce by bulb and baby. Sites with light to medium loamy soils, with good drainage and where groundwater is at least 60 cm deep are most suitable for growing daffodils. The soil must be cultivated, contain a lot of organic matter and have a neutral reaction.

If you live in the Middle Urals, then it is advisable to start planting in the second half of August. It is very important that the bulbs take root before the onset of stable cold weather, otherwise they do not overwinter well and often die.

The optimum soil temperature for their rooting is 9-17 degrees. After planting, the soil is watered.

The depth of planting depends on the mechanical composition of the soil and the size of the planting material. For example, the bulbs of the first (diameter 4 or more cm) and second (diameter 3.9 - 3.0 cm) parsing are planted at 12 - 15 centimeters, and the children of the first (diameter 2.9 - 2.0 cm) and second (diameter less than 2.0 cm) categories are planted at 10 centimeters. On heavy soils, the depth decreases.

The distance between the bulbs in a row for parsing, respectively, is 15, 10 - 12 and for a baby 8 - 10 centimeters.

When planting large material for growing plants for cutting for four to five years, the distance in the row between the bulbs of the first analysis is increased to 20 - 22 centimeters. Between rows, it depends on the method of planting and care.

You can plant them single-line (between rows 45 and 70 cm) and two-line (between lines 20 and ribbons 50 cm). On the small areas landing four-five-line (between rows 20 cm) with a track width of 30-40 centimeters.

Where there is a lot of precipitation, daffodils are grown on ridges 12–20 cm high and 100–120 cm wide.

Care

Planting care includes a number of agrotechnical measures: mulching, fertilizing, watering, loosening the soil, weed control, pests and diseases, and removal of diseased plants.

During the growing season, daffodils consume a lot of water. Its deficiency reduces the intensity of their growth and size.

The soil should be moist even after flowering plants. During this period, bulbs, babies grow intensively and nutrients accumulate in them. Irrigation rate depends on the characteristics of the soil, its moisture content. Plants are watered 2-4 times during the growing season.

The soil is loosened starting in spring throughout the growing season, usually after watering or rain. In areas mulched with peat, the soil is loosened less frequently.

Pests of daffodils

Like all beautiful plants, daffodils also have pests:

Root onion mite. It lives in the soil on plant debris and settles in planted bulbs. It develops at 23 - 25 degrees. At temperatures below 10 degrees and soil moisture below 60%, the development of the tick stops.

Adult mites and larvae eat the bottom and scales of the bulbs. These daffodils don't grow. Causative agents of fungal and bacterial diseases settle on damaged tissues. In the fight against ticks, it is necessary to destroy plant residues, carefully select planting material. Soaking the bulb before planting in karbofos (0.5%) for 30 minutes is effective.

Onion and tuberculate hoverfly. Onion hoverfly greenish-bronze. There are three semilunar light spots on the sides of the abdomen, body length 6.5 - 9 millimeters. The tuberculate hoverfly is similar in appearance and lifestyle to the onion. Fly years begin in June 0-July.

The female lays her eggs in the soil and on the lower parts of plants. The larvae penetrate the bulb, hibernate in it and damage it. The fight against hoverflies is the same as with the onion mite. During oviposition, the soil near the plants is watered with the same solution of karbofos.

There are many legends about daffodil flowers. In all legends, a delicate flower is associated with water. So, in China it is called the flower of the "water god". Here, daffodils give when they want to thank a person for their kindness.