AvtoSaratov > Educational and entertaining section > Useful. Interesting. Informative > Drying oil, processing wooden surfaces
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Obi-Wan Kenobi
31.10.2011, 11:01
Treated with drying oil inner part garage doors. Reiki coniferous tree, probably pine.
What is drying oil needed for: what does it do and how to use it correctly
Why does it take so long to dry? Maybe there are some conditions temperature regime, at which drying will proceed faster?
Drying oil was produced in Voronezh.
Pinocchio
31.10.2011, 11:12
Is it just me, or does the second layer of drying oil always behave this way?
The first layer dried very quickly, in about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) and feels a little sticky to the touch.
Obi-Wan Kenobi
31.10.2011, 11:46
well, this is normal for the second layer of drying oil (((especially since the room is rather humid. If the basis of the drying oil is fuzz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), then such drying oil will never dry, and neither varnish nor paint will be able to paint over this disgrace. Drying oil based on fuse has a red color and a dark sediment. If there was natural drying oil, it would dry faster!!!
The room is not humid, moreover, it is heated.
Drying oil has a brownish color, the sediment is not visually determined.
31.10.2011, 14:19
All types of drying oils are used for impregnation and coating of wooden surfaces and various products made of wood.
The weather resistance of most drying oils is inferior to others available means protection of surfaces, therefore the use of drying oils in their pure form (not as part of paints) for outdoor work is limited. There is currently no point at all in using natural drying oil, the most expensive of all drying oils, for exterior work - the coating will have to be constantly updated, which is very expensive and impractical. Using natural drying oil to pre-coat surfaces for painting is also pointless, since cheaper drying oils - oxol and alkyd - are better suited for this. Weather resistance is greatest with alkyd drying oils - an alkyd drying oil coating is approximately twice as durable as any oil drying oil. In any case, it is better to use drying oil in exterior work only as a preliminary coating for subsequent painting.
For interior works, from the point of view of ease of use and environmental friendliness, natural drying oil has an advantage - it has virtually no odor, the coating does not emit substances harmful to health, and the work on the coating is also not associated with harm to health. But due to the high cost of this drying oil, oxol (or alkyd drying oils) are more often used for interior work. Due to the odor of oxol, work with it must be done in a well-ventilated area. Until complete drying, the applied coating continues to emit white spirit vapors, which is why a characteristic odor remains in the room for up to several days.
Composite drying oils are, as a rule, toxic, and not only during the drying period - the surface covered with composite drying oil may continue to smell and emit harmful substances for several years after coating. Therefore, composite drying oils can only be used for treating wooden and other porous surfaces for outdoor work, as well as in non-residential premises with good ventilation. They are not recommended for use in interior work in apartments and other residential premises. Surface treatment (http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9E%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%84%D0%B0)
Obi-Wan Kenobi
31.10.2011, 14:38
By the way, the drying oil I used has almost no smell...
Obi-Wan Kenobi
01.11.2011, 07:58
What do you think, what if you try to dry it with a hairdryer?
Will it dry out or, conversely, leak?
It will leak and it will get worse.
IMHO drying oil is hopelessly outdated... +100. Yes, and from that same drying oil there is only one name left, the one they sell now is just to dilute the red lead)))
Obi-Wan Kenobi
02.11.2011, 12:31
It will leak and it will get worse.
It was necessary to cover the thread with something containing wax. IMHO drying oil is hopelessly outdated...
I recently turned on the heating and it dried noticeably faster. It sticks only where the layer was thicker)
Moreover, it is heated.
Obi-Wan Kenobi
07.11.2011, 14:32
so you said that the room was warm?)))
They would have turned it on right away))) the losses will be great))
The room is initially dry and moderately warm) but with heating it is warmer))
Obi-Wan Kenobi
07.11.2011, 14:33
Something olifil about 15 years ago - sticks)))
I impregnated the chipboard on the floors with drying oil, axol in my opinion, it dries quickly, in two layers, both dried instantly)
Well, who's lucky)
But much less!
07.11.2011, 15:45
The first layer dried very quickly, in about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) and feels a little sticky to the touch.
Why does it take so long to dry?
07.11.2011, 15:47
What do you think, what if you try to dry it with a hairdryer?
bug...
07.11.2011, 15:49
Well, who's lucky)
Nope. depends on the degree of dilution and the diluent-solvent.
Obi-Wan Kenobi
08.11.2011, 09:41
😆 Drying oil is generally one of those that dry out...
The first layer did not dry out, but was absorbed.
But I have a hard time understanding why the second layer is needed. after all, varnish would be more appropriate.
For the second layer (I really don’t know why it is needed), the drying oil must be liquefied almost to the state of water and covered with the thinnest layer. When the diluent evaporates, “drying out” will occur.
Well, I didn't know)
On this moment almost everything has dried up, or been absorbed))
Obi-Wan Kenobi
02.05.2012, 14:32
Close the topic.
Michael, is it dry? 🙂
Obi-Wan Kenobi
02.05.2012, 14:54
Michael, is it dry? 🙂
Yep :)
I was surfing through my created topics and saw this old stuff)
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Is it necessary to dry the fiberboard if it acts as a substrate?
It was necessary to level the floors, but there was no way to make a screed.
How long does it take for drying oil to dry or when can you continue working?
We decided to install fiberboard. Do I need to pre-coat it with drying oil?
Of course, fiberboard is not the material that is placed on the floor or even as a substrate.
Fiberboard does not like moisture very much.
If possible, it is better to lay down plywood; the plywood should be no thinner than two centimeters.
As for the drying oil, it is better, of course, to dry it on both sides; if on one side, then the fiberboard can be unscrewed.
Before laying it on the floor, give it time to “sit”; do not nail the fiberboard to the floor right away.
If the room is damp, for example a kitchen, then drying oil will not save the fiberboard.
Alternatively, you can use paint instead of drying oil, dilute it with a solvent and paint the fiberboard on both sides, this paint will protect the fiberboard from moisture, the quality of the paint is in second place, it is important that it is present (although quite a lot of paint will be used, the surface is porous) .
Drying oil takes a long time to dry; when drying, it is advisable to use a temperature not lower than +20 degrees.
And lastly, in order to dry the fiberboard efficiently, heat the drying oil before applying it to the sheet; it must be heated to a temperature of fifty degrees.
It is advisable to cover the fiberboard with two layers of drying oil; before applying the second layer, you must allow the first to dry completely.
Naturally, two layers are applied to both sides of the fiberboard sheet.
When you lay fiberboard on the floor, leave a small gap for expansion.
Be sure to cover the fiberboard with drying oil on all sides, like the bottom and top part, and carefully process the ends, maybe even in several layers!
The reasons for this are as follows:
- Any room has its own humidity, which varies throughout the year depending on weather conditions, and fiberboard is susceptible to moisture accumulation, unless of course it is a special fiberboard that has been treated against water...
- Everyone washes their floors, some with vacuum cleaners, and others with a rag on a mop the old fashioned way, and during washing, moisture can get onto the fiberboard substrate and be absorbed into it...
- Also, no one is safe from a flood, when a large amount of water possibly gets under the floor...
Well, if water gets under the floor and the fiberboard absorbs it, then the following consequences are possible:
- rotting
- swelling
- destruction
Which will subsequently lead to the need to change the substrate, i.e. for repair...
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How to dry drying oil?
Apply drying oil to the surface of a metal barrel. The barrel has been sitting in a warm (+15 degrees) garage for a week and smells very strongly. How can you dry it faster?
Drying oil: varieties and applications
Is there a way to fit it into the day? If not, is it possible to dry it outside (currently the temperature is about 0)?
I wouldn’t like to upset you, but there is very little chance that the drying oil will dry out.
If there is a strong and unpleasant smell, then it is most likely Ansol drying oil, it is not even drying oil, but its artificial substitute, there is no vegetable oil in its composition at all, only petroleum products.
True, "Ansol" dries very quickly, a day maximum, which means you have two in one and the drying oil is not drying oil, and even stitched.
The first option is to try to dry it construction hairdryer(the usual one won’t work), direct the stream of hot air as if casually, so that the flow of hot air “fits” your barrel.
If nothing helps, then there are no options to dry it at all; the drying oil just needs to be removed from the surface.
Drying oil can be removed with gasoline, White Spirit, or even better, Solvent, a solvent for oil paints.
The procedure is not complicated, moisten a large rag with the products that I listed above (one of them, of course), then take a break for about forty minutes, then repeat the procedure, thus very quickly removing the drying oil from the barrel (You are writing about a whole day of work, that’s enough here several hours).
Drying oil has a short drying time, regardless of what it is made with. Usually it is 24-30 hours after application to the surface, after drying it shines and becomes glossy, the temperature required is 20 degrees Celsius.
If drying oil is expired, it has an unpleasant pungent odor, when applied it is sticky, viscous, and does not dry.
Yours metal barrel It dries for a week at a temperature of 15 degrees, but it stinks strongly, therefore the drying oil was old, there is no point in waiting for it to dry, the surface will only become more and more sticky, the smell does not dissipate even after a long period of time.
Wood is the most popular and environmentally friendly pure material in construction. And to preserve all its properties, it is treated with drying oil. Craftsmen who have encountered this substance know very well how long it takes to dry on wood, and that this process lasts quite a long time. However, until the surface is dry, you cannot continue further work. After drying, the drying oil creates a protective thin layer.
Why is drying oil needed and where is it used?
First of all, it is a paint and varnish material that is obtained from superheated vegetable oil. Various components are also added to the solution, such as solvent and alkyd resins, which are the main components.
The main function is to create on the surface protective film, which protects the material from mold, insects, mildew and dirt. Drying oil is also used for priming. With it, the paint is applied more evenly and economically.
You should also know that a surface covered with drying oil looks very beautiful. Therefore, it can also be used to improve appearance.
What types of drying oil are there?
The drying time of the composition on wood or wood-based particle material differs, since different types solutions dry differently. Also, all types are designed for different purposes. And before use, it is imperative to determine for what work it is needed. There are four types:
1. natural. Compared to other types, they are not flammable, since they do not contain flammable impurities. The hardening time will depend on the type of oil. It will take about a day for flax-based material to dry, but from sunflower oil it won’t have time to dry in that amount of time;
2. semi-natural. Half are made of flammable materials. They can be used not only to coat wood, but also to thin out paint. Its drying time will be approximately a day;
3. artificial. They are the cheapest. They are made from shale oil and then dissolved in an acidic substance. This type of solution is not used to protect wood or metal material. It must not be used indoors. Mainly diluted with plaster, concrete and mastic. Dries in more than a day;
4. mixed. They dry in no more than a day. They are made by dehydrating oils, and are used purely for the manufacture of paints.
How to dry drying oil faster on wood or chipboard?
Compared to paint, which hardens after the solvent evaporates, drying oil takes much longer to dry. Drying occurs as a result of the interaction of the substance with oxygen and oxidation.
Many people are interested in the question: how to dry drying oil as quickly as possible? But speeding up the process is not so easy, and there are only a few methods. These methods include the use of a heat gun, which reduces humidity and increases temperature. Also, applying a hot composition can increase the hardening process, but this method has not been used for a long time. You can also use a drying agent designed specifically for drying varnish materials. But before doing this, you should carefully read the instructions.
How to determine complete drying?
The main factor indicating 100% drying is the absence of stickiness. But there are cases when hardening does not occur even after ten days, and the main reason is the low quality of the coloring matter. In this case, it is not recommended to wait for complete drying. It is better to clean the surface and apply a new layer.
To remove a defective solution, you can use a solvent, but if the drying oil is absorbed deeply into the wood, then it will have to be removed with a plane.
Why apply hot drying oil?
If you treat wood with a heated mixture, this will significantly increase its durability. After which the material can be coated with varnish or enamel. Water-based paint It is not recommended to apply it, as it will not adhere well. This applies to all substances made from water.
In construction, when carrying out various painting work used as a binder for the preparation of oil-based coloring compositions different kinds drying oils
Drying oil is used to obtain oil-based paint compositions and in the manufacture of various primers and putties. Drying oil is obtained from dried vegetable oils (nut oil, linseed oil, tung oil and others), as well as from non-drying (castor oil) or semi-drying oils (sunflower), fats and organic products that do not contain varnish resins.
Photo-1. Natural drying oil
Natural linseed oil
1. Natural linseed oil (GOST 7931-76*) is a light and transparent oily liquid. It is made from linseed oil with the addition of a drier, which is also made on the basis of linseed oil. Natural drying oil is made in two types:
oxidized and polymerized with wide range densities from 0.936 to 0.950 g/cm3.
Drying time for drying oil at a temperature of 20 degrees is no more than a day. Drying oil is used when priming wooden, metal and plastered prepared surfaces. It is also widely used in the manufacture of oil-based painting compositions for the preparation of putties, putties, and various light, thickly grated paints.
Drying oil can be used when carrying out painting work during interior spaces, for painting building facades, for protection metal structures against corrosion as a binder for oil-based paint compositions.
2. Natural hemp drying oil (GOST 7931-76*) is a dark, oily and transparent liquid. Made from driers and hemp oil.
Hemp drying oil is produced only oxidized, its density is 0.94 g/cm3, drying time is no more than a day at an outside temperature of 20 degrees. Used for priming various wooden, metal and concrete surfaces.
It can also be used in the dilution and preparation of dark oil paints, putties, putties, undercoats, as well as in the manufacture of high-quality paint compositions for doors, window frames, floors, roofing and other construction products.
Drying oil is divided into four types:
1. Semi-natural (compacted).
2. Natural.
3. Synthetic.
4. Combined.
Photo-2. Drying oil-oxol
Drying oil-oxol
Semi-natural drying oil-oxol is a solution of oxidized vegetable oil and drying agents in white spirit (up to 45 percent). Drying oil-oxol is available in several brands:
Brand B is made from linseed oil, Brand CM is made from a mixture of linseed oil, hemp and sunflower oil. The PV brand is made on the basis of soybean oil, sunflower, corn and other types of oils. Drying time when applied in an even layer to the base is approximately the same for all brands and is approximately a day, provided that the outside temperature is 20 degrees Celsius.
Drying oil of grade B is used in the production of oil paints of various compositions, which can be used for painting work both indoors and outdoors. Drying oils of the PV and SM grades are mainly used in the manufacture of various primers and putties. It can also be used in the production of oil paints used during interior work except for floors.
Photo-3. Combined drying oil
Combined drying oil
1. Combined drying oil (TU 10-1203-76) is a product of dehydration and polymerization of semi-drying and drying oils. The drying time of the combined drying oil is 24 hours. This drying oil is used for preparing oil paints and painting compositions for interior work.
Photo-4. Alkyd pentaphthalic drying oil
Alkyd glyphthalic drying oil
2. Alkyd pentaphthalic drying oil is obtained by diluting pentaphthalic resin with white spirit and modifying it with vegetable oils. Alkyd pentaphthalic drying oils dry within 24 hours. They are used in construction for the same purposes as glyphthalic.
3. Alkyd glyphthalic drying oil is a transparent liquid that is obtained by mixing vegetable oils with glycerin, phthalic anhydrite, driers and white spirit in an amount of up to 50%.
This drying oil is not inferior to natural types of drying oils. It is widely used in the manufacture of thick-set and ready-to-use paints for interior and exterior use. Such paints can be applied to prepared wood, metal and concrete surfaces.
4. Synthetic drying oils. Shale drying oil is a dark-colored liquid with a sharp and unpleasant smell. It is a product of the oxidation of shale oils dissolved in xyol.
Drying oil is weatherproof and dries in 24 hours. Used for diluting paints and for preparing dark colors used for painting internal metal, plastered and wooden surfaces, as well as for painting external surfaces. Not used for painting floors and various household items.
Photo-5. Drying oil - ethinol
Drying oil-ethynol
5. Drying oil - ethinol is ethinol varnish and is a transparent and light liquid with a pungent odor. It is made from various waste products from the production of chloroprene rubber. It forms a shiny, acid- and alkali-resistant film that is very durable. Drying oil - ethinol is added in amounts up to 15 percent to other types of drying oils used in the manufacture of primers and paints for metal coatings.
How to dry drying oil?
Apply drying oil to the surface of a metal barrel. The barrel has been sitting in a warm (+15 degrees) garage for a week and smells very strongly.
Lecture 4 Drying oils
How can you dry it faster? Is there a way to fit it into the day? If not, is it possible to dry it outside (currently the temperature is about 0)?
I wouldn’t like to upset you, but there is very little chance that the drying oil will dry out.
If there is a strong and unpleasant smell, then it is most likely Ansol drying oil, it is not even drying oil, but its artificial substitute, there is no vegetable oil in its composition at all, only petroleum products.
True, "Ansol" dries very quickly, a day maximum, which means you have two in one and the drying oil is not drying oil, and even stitched.
The first option is to try drying it with a hair dryer (a regular one won’t work), direct the stream of hot air as if casually, so that the flow of hot air seems to “fit” your barrel.
If nothing helps, then there are no options to dry it at all; the drying oil just needs to be removed from the surface.
Drying oil can be removed with gasoline, White Spirit, or even better, Solvent, a solvent for oil paints.
The procedure is not complicated, moisten a large rag with the products that I listed above (one of them, of course), then take a break for about forty minutes, then repeat the procedure, thus very quickly removing the drying oil from the barrel (You are writing about a whole day of work, that’s enough here several hours).
Drying oil has a short drying time, regardless of what it is made with. Usually it is 24-30 hours after application to the surface, after drying it shines and becomes glossy, the temperature required is 20 degrees Celsius.
If drying oil is expired, it has an unpleasant pungent odor, when applied it is sticky, viscous, and does not dry.
Your metal barrel dries for a week at a temperature of 15 degrees, and it stinks strongly, therefore the drying oil was old, there is no point in waiting for it to dry, the surface will only become more and more sticky, the smell does not disappear even after a long period of time.
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leave a comment
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How to speed up the drying of drying oil on the surface of wood?
Natural drying oil
(GOST 7931-76) consists of 97% natural vegetable oil (most often linseed, less often sunflower), the remaining 3% is a drier (a substance that promotes rapid drying). Natural drying oil is used for diluting thickly rubbed paints and for impregnating wooden surfaces indoors. Experts do not recommend using natural drying oil for outdoor work - it is expensive and impractical.
Oxol based on linseed oil is considered the best, because after drying it forms a hard, waterproof and elastic film and does not turn black for a long time. Oxol is intended mainly for treating wooden and plastered surfaces indoors. Applied to a plastered surface, oxol improves the adhesion of oil, alkyd, dispersion paints and putty. Oxol can also be used for external work, but it should be remembered that this material serves only for temporary preservation of the surface, so it must be painted, paint, varnish or enamel.
If you need cheaper oxol, you can buy its “sunflower” version, which can be used when treating wooden and plastered surfaces indoors, and outside you can only treat those surfaces that are under a canopy or roof to protect from water, or even better - paint over it with a layer of oil paint so that the wood does not begin to rot.
The cheapest and most fragrant composite drying oils, they do not have a GOST number that would strictly regulate their composition, but they are produced according to technical specifications(THAT). The composition of combined drying oils includes chemical components that replace natural resins, petroleum polymer resins and other petrochemical by-products. It is better not to use composite drying oils to treat wall surfaces either in an apartment or on a balcony. They are toxic and harmful, and even after drying, they continue to smell for several years.
Therefore, when purchasing composite drying oils, be careful!
If the drying oil is based on fuz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), such drying oil will never dry out, and neither varnish nor paint will be able to paint over this disgrace. Drying oil based on fuse has a red color and a dark sediment.
If you treat the surface with drying oil made from osprey (a substance consisting of petroleum-polymer resins), it will either never dry out or begin to crumble. This drying oil is the most liquid, lightest and cheapest of all existing varieties.
When choosing and purchasing drying oil you should:
— if the packaging allows, pay attention to the transparency of its contents. Natural drying oil should have a dark brown tint. And the more transparent the liquid, the greater the chances that this is a composite drying oil, and most likely a fake;
— “carefully study the composition of the product indicated on the label, and the label itself, which should contain information about the manufacturer (name, coordinates), GOST or TU number, product composition, instructions for use;
— “check the availability of a certificate of conformity for natural drying oil and oxol, and a hygienic certificate for composite drying oil. High-quality drying oil must be homogeneous in composition - without mechanical inclusions and without sediment; The weaker the drying oil smell, the better.
AvtoSaratov > Educational and entertaining section > Useful. Interesting. Informative > Drying oil, processing of wooden surfaces
View full version: Drying oil, processing of wooden surfaces
Obi-Wan Kenobi
31.10.2011, 11:01
I treated the inside of the garage door with drying oil.
Drying oil: what is it, composition and properties
The conifer slats are probably pine. The first layer dried very quickly, in about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) and feels a little sticky to the touch.
Why does it take so long to dry? Maybe there are some temperature conditions under which drying will proceed faster?
Drying oil was produced in Voronezh.
Pinocchio
31.10.2011, 11:12
Is it just me, or does the second layer of drying oil always behave this way?
The first layer dried very quickly, in about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) and feels a little sticky to the touch.
Well, this is normal for the second layer of drying oil (((especially since the room is rather damp. If the drying oil is based on fuz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), then such drying oil will never dry out, and neither varnish nor paint will be able to paint over this disgrace.
Drying oil based on fuse has a red color and a dark sediment. If there was natural drying oil, it would dry faster!!!
Obi-Wan Kenobi
31.10.2011, 11:46
well, this is normal for the second layer of drying oil (((especially since the room is rather damp. If the drying oil is based on fuz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), then such drying oil will never dry out, and neither varnish nor paint will be able to paint over this disgrace. Drying oil on The base has a reddish color and a dark sediment. If there were natural drying oil, it would dry faster!!!
The room is not humid, moreover, it is heated.
Drying oil has a brownish color, the sediment is not visually determined.
31.10.2011, 14:19
All types of drying oils are used for impregnation and coating of wooden surfaces and various wood products.
The weather resistance of most drying oils is inferior to other available surface protection products, so the use of drying oils in their pure form (not as part of paints) for outdoor use is limited. There is currently no point at all in using natural drying oil, the most expensive of all drying oils, for exterior work - the coating will have to be constantly updated, which is very expensive and impractical. Using natural drying oil to pre-coat surfaces for painting is also pointless, since cheaper drying oils - oxol and alkyd - are better suited for this. Weather resistance is greatest with alkyd drying oils - an alkyd drying oil coating is approximately twice as durable as any oil drying oil. In any case, it is better to use drying oil in exterior work only as a preliminary coating for subsequent painting.
For interior work, from the point of view of ease of use and environmental friendliness, natural drying oil has an advantage - it has virtually no odor, the coating does not emit substances harmful to health, and work on the coating is also not associated with harm to health. But due to the high cost of this drying oil, oxol (or alkyd drying oils) are more often used for interior work. Due to the odor of oxol, work with it must be done in a well-ventilated area. Until complete drying, the applied coating continues to emit white spirit vapors, which is why a characteristic odor remains in the room for up to several days.
Composite drying oils are generally toxic, and not only during the drying period - a surface coated with a composite drying oil may continue to smell and emit harmful substances for several years after application of the coating. Therefore, composite drying oils can only be used for treating wooden and other porous surfaces for outdoor work, as well as in non-residential premises with good ventilation. They are not recommended for use in interior work in apartments and other residential premises. Surface treatment (http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9E%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%84%D0%B0)
Drying oil for wood is a film-forming transparent liquid made from natural or artificial components. It can be used for priming and as an additive for more complex mixtures.
What is drying oil used for? It is used separately and as a material for surface treatment when working on wood. Why treat the surface? Wood itself is not very strong and is not very durable. . In addition, it allows you to reduce consumption rates decorative covering, such as varnish, or a coloring agent - it will not be additionally absorbed into wood already impregnated with oil.
All existing species Drying oils can be roughly divided into the following categories:
- natural;
- semi-natural;
- combined;
- synthetic.
When processing, it is necessary to apply a fairly large amount of drying oil to the product, because the wood needs to be well saturated. If necessary, after drying, apply another layer - the treatment can be repeated if the wood still absorbs the solution.
How much impregnation will you need to treat the surface? The calculation will be easier to do if you remember that the consumption rate of linseed oil per 1 sq.m. wood is from 80 to 100 grams. These standards may vary depending on the type of solution and external factors.
Drying the surface after impregnation
How long the drying oil dries depends on the amount of drying agent, temperature and humidity, as well as the type and quality of the impregnation itself.
It has been noticed that solutions with polymetallic driers dry much faster. Natural drying oil made from flax dries in 20 hours when adding lead and 12 hours when adding manganese. If you add a mixture of these metals as a drier, the drying time will be reduced to 8 hours.
Temperature and humidity are very important for drying speed. Drying drying oil with cobalt drying agent will require 2 times less time, and with manganese drying agent - 2-3 times, if the thermometer shows more than +25ºС. The drying speed will decrease significantly if the indoor air humidity is 70% or more.
Removing drying oil
Almost all types of impregnations are removed from a wooden surface using gasoline. A small piece of rag is soaked in gasoline and wiped over the desired area. After 15-20 minutes, the oil can be easily removed from the surface with the same rag. However, it must be remembered that it is possible to delete only upper layer impregnation - the absorbed drying oil will remain in the wood forever.
- Instead of gasoline, impregnation can be removed with white spirit, which has a less pungent odor. In this case, the same actions are performed. When working on wood, instead of drying oil, a product such as stain is sometimes used. This liquid is also absorbed into the wood. But it has a different purpose - stain is needed to emphasize the natural wood grain, it makes the wood more beautiful appearance. Classic stain does not have wood-protecting properties; it is a purely decorative product.
Therefore, after it dries, additional varnish is applied to the wood. Wood protection is provided only by stain, one of the main components of which is alcohol or solvent. Stain and varnish are usually used in combination; the surface of the wood is properly impregnated with the stain, and when it has dried, varnish is applied to the treated areas. To protect the tree, it can be coated with other materials, such as antiseptics.
Old drying oil is an excellent analogue of modern and more expensive methods of impregnation and priming of wood surfaces. But it is worth remembering that use in residential buildings is not permissible for all types.
Drying oil is a film-forming substance made from natural or artificial components. Drying oils are used as independent primers, and also as one of the components of more complex compositions. In addition, drying oils can be used as independent material for decorative and protective processing of wood.
Varieties of drying oils
Existing compositions can be divided into the following groups:
- natural;
- semi-natural;
- combined;
- synthetic.
Natural compositions
Natural drying oils are made from vegetable oils. Compositions of this variety are manufactured in accordance with the requirements of GOST 7931-76. Most suitable for chemical composition the substance is linseed oil, although hemp, sunflower or tung oil can also be used.
Natural drying oils contain only a very small percentage of chemical additives. The main component added to the impregnation is a drier, which is a substance that accelerates the drying process.
It is not practical to use natural compounds for treating facades due to high financial costs. In addition, the treated surface will not be protected from fungus, mold and harmful insects.
Natural raw materials are used to prime the wood before applying paint and varnish. Natural compositions are also used as a primer and as a component of paint and varnish primers, putties, plaster compositions. Such drying oils are also used for treating indoor surfaces.
Drying time of the composition, subject to optimal temperature air (20 degrees above zero) is about a day. The lightest of all types of impregnations is sunflower, linen is noticeably darker, and the darkest is hemp.
Compositions made from various raw materials have their own characteristics. For example, hemp drying oils are used to dilute dark, thick-coated paints.
Sunflower impregnations have the longest drying time - 24 hours at optimal air temperature and humidity. Moreover, this is a minimum period, but in practice, even after a day, the surface will most likely remain slightly damp. Sunflower formulations have strong point- increased elasticity. At the same time, in terms of such an important indicator as hardness, sunflower impregnations are inferior to flax and hemp options.
Semi-natural compounds
Semi-natural drying oils (oxols) are also made from oil (usually sunflower), but differ from natural compositions availability large quantities organic solvent - white spirit. Its share reaches 40%. Semi-natural impregnations also include driers (about 5%). There are no mineral oils or surrogates in semi-natural solutions. The standard for the production of this type of drying oil is GOST 190-78.
The scope of use of oxol is the same as that of natural compounds. Most often, semi-natural solutions are used in combination with oil paints or as a primer. Such drying oils are not suitable for treating surfaces in a bathhouse, but can be used, for example, for impregnating fiberboard, plywood, and lining in drier rooms.
Semi-natural compositions dry a little faster than natural ones, and the material consumption is 1 m2 less. In addition, the cost of their production is lower.
The color of semi-natural impregnations is light brown. The film that appears on the surface of the processed material is characterized by hardness and good resistance to moisture. However, the strength of this type of drying oil is still not enough to use it for treating surfaces subject to increased mechanical stress (for example, floors).
Combined formulations
Combined mixtures are almost no different from semi-natural ones - they are a product of polymerization of drying fats. However, they contain less solvent (about 30%). The main advantage of combined formulations over semi-natural ones is less toxicity. Combined impregnations often contain special modifiers that increase the required paint and varnish materials quality.
Combined drying oils are usually used as a primer before painting wooden surfaces. Drying time of the coating is up to 24 hours.
The concept of combined drying oil Synthetic compounds
Synthetic impregnations are made only from artificial components - polymers. The raw material for this type of drying oil is oil, coal or waste generated during the production of synthetic rubber. Characteristic synthetic solutions - dark color and a strong unpleasant odor.
Synthetics are practically not used as a wood impregnation agent. Most often, synthetic drying oils are used for breeding dark varieties paint and varnish materials used for facade works or as a component of putties and pastes. This is the lowest quality type of drying oil, which is reflected in their cost.
Synthetic mixtures cannot be used to treat surfaces inside buildings. Otherwise, a pungent odor will remain in the room for many months, and the people living there risk becoming intoxicated.
Synthetics take a long time to dry and are also characterized by a variety of properties, depending on the components included in the mixture. For example, drying oils based on fuse (a red-colored liquid with a dark sediment) do not dry out at all, and if they cover a surface, the surface cannot be painted.
Osprey-based solutions dry very poorly, and when dry, the coating is a crumbling glass-like film. This impregnation is the most liquid, light and cheap of all the options available on the market.
The best synthetic option is alkyd drying oil. It is less toxic in comparison with materials made from petroleum polymers.
However, even this type of impregnating agent can only be used for finishing external surfaces.
- Some useful tips when buying drying oil: It is recommended to pay attention to the composition of the product (it is indicated on the packaging) and compliance with GOST. State standard
- (GOST) applies only to natural and semi-natural impregnations. Synthetics are supplied with a hygienic certificate.
- The liquid must be homogeneous; there should be no deposits or mechanical particles at the bottom of the container.
It is worth taking a closer look at the transparency of the content. Natural drying oils are brown (of varying degrees of color saturation, depending on the type of base raw material). The color of synthetics also depends on the main component and can vary from colorless liquid to dark red.
Surface treatment
Before sanding, the surface should be prepared. To do this, the wood needs to be degreased and dirt and dust removed. The material being processed must be dry.
Application
- You can apply impregnation using several types of tools to choose from:
- brushes with long bristles;
- roller;
- spray bottle;
rags made of natural fabric.
- Below are several ways to saturate wood with drying oil: Hot impregnation. Impregnation is carried out in a water bath. The method is especially good for processing small products . We put the material in a vessel with a hot solution, holding it there for 4-8 hours, and then dry it for 4-5 days. Helpful advice
- : if you add to the composition (2-3% of the total volume), the surface will dry much faster - in 2-3 days. Drying oil with kerosene. To create the mixture, we take the indicated components in a ratio of 1 to 1. It is acceptable to use both hot and cold solutions. However, the temperature of the drying oil affects the length of time the wood needs to be cured. If we are talking about the hot method, it will take only 3 hours, but cold version
- will require 1-2 days. Drying time for the coating is 2-3 days. Drying oil, paraffin and turpentine. Mix 5 parts of drying oil, 1 part of turpentine and 8 parts of paraffin. Moreover, first we dissolve paraffin in turpentine, for which we use water bath . Next we enter required quantity
- Drying oil with wax. For 20 parts of the base material we take 3 parts of wax, which we first grind. The surface will dry in 2-3 days.
- Soaking using a plastic bag. Take an undamaged bag and pour a little liquid into it. Next we place it in a bag wooden part. We wrap the product by sealing the hole with tape. Soaking will take several hours.
During impregnation, you need to apply a sufficient amount of drying oil to the surface. The liquid should saturate the wood well. When the coating dries, apply a second layer. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated until the tree stops absorbing the solution.
Drying
The speed of drying depends on several factors, the main ones being the content of the drying agent, temperature and humidity, as well as the type and quality of drying oil.
Impregnations with polymetallic driers dry the fastest. For example, natural linseed oil with the addition of lead or manganese drier dries in 20 hours and 12 hours, respectively. However, it is worth using both of these metals, and the drying speed will not exceed 8 hours.
Air temperature and humidity have a direct impact on drying time. For example, it will take 50% less time to dry impregnation with cobalt drier if the air temperature is at least 25 degrees above zero. The surface treated with a composition containing manganese drier dries even faster (at least 2-3 times). Favorable air humidity is also important; this figure should not exceed 70%.
After processing, the wooden part should be placed in a dry and warm place. There should be no drafts in the room. There is no need to specifically heat the surface; such actions can only cause harm.
Advice! Drying oil is fire hazardous and toxic material, so you need to take precautions when working with it. For protection, it is recommended to use a gown, goggles and a respirator. Impregnated containers should be stored away from fire, electrical and gas appliances.
Replacement of drying oil
If you don’t have drying oil on hand, the surface can be treated with a casein solution. Such a composition will be cheaper than factory impregnation, and its properties are no worse. In addition, the casein solution dries much faster.
To prepare it you will need 20 parts of casein, 3 parts of soap solution and 10 parts of slaked lime. Mix the ingredients thoroughly and add 7 parts of turpentine. The consistency of the solution should resemble thick drying oil. If sediment appears at the bottom of the container, add a little ammonia to the composition.
Drying oil is an excellent replacement for more modern and expensive methods of impregnating and priming wood. However, do not forget that not all types of this type of impregnation are suitable for use in residential premises.
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