The end of the season is coming. I'm getting ready mothball the boat. But before that I want to give her some minor repairs. Namely, I want to saturate it with some kind of impregnation to seal micro cracks and, well, tint it. I searched through a search engine, nothing useful. There is a lot of advice, but no one actually checked it, everything is from someone else’s words. Here are some tips.
Wash thoroughly cold water with some mild agent like fairy. Then wipe thoroughly, especially all corners, the main thing is to remove all the sand completely and dry it. Sprinkle with talcum powder and fold. Store at a temperature of 15-20 degrees, well, if this is not the case, then at room temperature, but not higher than 30 and not lower than 10. And be sure to fold it again several times during storage with kinks in other places. Thus, the boat “Nyok-2”, which I had in the second half of the 90s, lasted 8 years, after which it was still sold in good condition. As for all sorts of “what to lubricate”, then those who have storage experience advised me not to do this at all - it won’t be better, and it’s easy to get worse. All this is from personal experience.
- Still, it’s better not to bring it to 30. In this heat, the rubber cakes. I store it in the basement, it’s 15 degrees there both in winter and summer. You can’t store potatoes - they bloom, but here’s a warehouse for all sorts of things for which there isn’t much room at home.
Wipe the entire surface you want to renew. Use fine sandpaper, such as zero sand, remove dust with gasoline. Next, take rubber glue, which is sold commercially. In kits for rubber boats, dilute the galoshes with gasoline, add aluminum powder, and constantly stir to create a thin paint. I add powder for 1. the silver color reflects the sun's rays, does not age the rubber, does not heat up the balloon. 2 from a bird's eye view, the surface of the water is light due to the reflected sky and the dark boat is clearly visible, unlike the silver one, for a hunter this is essential. Next, we paint the boat in three or four layers with complete drying in between. The final procedure is to dust the entire painted surface with talc, I took baby powder from pharmacies. I sprinkled it and stroked my palm until there was no sticking at all, this is a must. You can also pour talc inside the boat, pump it up and tilt the boat for better uniform distribution along the inside. surfaces. You can also use oil paints instead of silver (aluminum powder) to imitate camouflage. The use of other solvents and adhesives is unacceptable and will damage the surface. I also covered an awning on a motor boat, a tarpaulin raincoat, 100% waterproof, but instead of rubber glue I used sealant in my household white color. Materials covered with sealant when sub-zero temperatures become brittle, this doesn’t happen with a rubber coating, however, it’s better not to disturb the product when it’s below zero. The boat has rowlocks and normal oars installed. The boat is used every year, on fishing and hunting trips to this day. The “paint” lasts for 5-7 years, it has never peeled off, it feels like it is getting thinner and the old coating is starting to show through.
If your boat is still leaky, then you can make a simple boat with your own hands. The main thing is to stay afloat.
Preventative work to rejuvenate rubber in the spring, before use.
I pump up the boat and with the help of an ordinary paint brush I completely lubricate the cylinders glue solution. I make the solution from rubber glue No. 88 (one part) and aviation gasoline (two parts). I do not recommend smoking during this procedure, unless you are a kamikaze, of course.
I mix the liquid thoroughly and apply a thin layer to the rubber surface. This achieves the following positive aspects: microcracks are sealed, through which air quietly escapes; joining seams are strengthened; old rubber absorbs the amount it needs liquid rubber and becomes elastic. It is advisable to carry out such prevention at least once a year. Then it will be like new for a long time. After each fishing trip, the boat must be thoroughly dried. It is advisable to do this as soon as you go ashore and wash the boat. If you leave this procedure for later, you can safely forget that your watercraft is lonely and moldy in its case. If this is repeated frequently, the threads on the connecting seams will rot and the boat will burst at the “most opportune” moment. If the day is sunny, insert one oar into the oarlock and put the boat on its butt. In twenty to thirty minutes it will be dry. Leaving your “rubber friend” on the balcony during the winter is tantamount to betrayal. Large temperature changes and cold negatively affect the properties of rubber.
I know people who, during multi-day rafting trips, covered bottom part boats with a thin layer of grease, explaining that, supposedly, this achieves extra point slipping in particularly shallow places, where the boat often scrapes its belly along the bottom and is not protected from cuts. I haven’t used this method myself, so I don’t have my own opinion on this. But it’s worth talking about it, in case someone decides that this is a worthwhile innovation.
Ufimka cannot be cured by prevention - a tear in the seam or a high-quality patch, this is possible, but in order to avoid etching along the seams, you need to disassemble everything and reassemble it again, while cleaning the seams from old glue!!!
This build quality is unfortunate...
If the boat slowly lowers and lowers and every year faster and faster. Is this the end of it, or is there something else that can be done? The most appropriate thing is to inflate the boat in the sun, degrease it with gasoline, then pour it with nairite glue, and rub it in with a spatula. Enough for two or three seasons.
Boats They have a base made of nylon or viscose, they cannot be vulcanized - they get big holes.
In most cases, glue is used 4508. or 4NBuv (less often). You can use other rubber-based adhesives, but not instant, etc. If the glue has thickened, you can dilute galoshes or Nefras B50-170 with gasoline. Immediately before use, add polyisocyanate or desmodur 4% of the glue volume and mix well. If you don't do this. then the glue will leak in the sun. Almost all rubber adhesives are raw, and the molecular lattice needs to be bonded. After mixing, you can use it for several hours, then throw away the unused one.
First, carefully clean the surfaces to be glued with sandpaper, the edge of a knife, degrease with pure gasoline, and apply the glue THIN! layer 3 times with intermediate drying on both surfaces.
Before gluing, we check the applied glue for “tack”, that is, when you touch it lightly, your finger does not stick, but if you press it, it sticks, and you can glue it together.
Roll on top with a roller FLAT surface(using a bearing or the edge of a knife from the center to the edges), inflate the boat by 80 percent and leave for three days. If you need to use it right away, then do not rock the boat too much, and repeat the operation at home; if the patch is large, then you need to match the stretch of the patch with the boat, the boat does not stretch along the diameter of the side, the fabric has a warp and weft. Any seamstress knows that if the stretch doesn’t match, even if you nail it, it will fall off. Overlapping fabric from a hole larger than 2.5 cm does not make sense.
It is better to store polyisocyanate in a syringe with a needle; it is resistant to atmospheric moisture.
NOTHING WILL WORK FOR YOU IF:
- You work in the sun (the glue polymerizes before it dries)
- Temperature below +16 (glue does not dry at all).
- Gasoline with oil.
- Oily hands.
- Didn't read the instructions carefully.
PVC does not need to be sanded; it is enough to treat the bonded surfaces with solvents: for PVC it is acetone, and for polyurethane it is MEK (metol-ethyl-ketone). In fact, MEK is suitable for both types of coatings, while acetone can only be used if a suitable solvent cannot be found.
When hot gluing, we heat the patch and the boat at the same time with a hairdryer, and the glue should warm up and not dry out completely and the fabric should not melt. Apply the patch and roll it with a roller while the fabric is warm ON A FLAT SURFACE.
Well, basically, it doesn’t hurt to give it a 12-hour exposure.
For household repairs UR-600 glue or Uranium is enough. Also 900i, (in shoe workshops)
Add and mix well polyisocyanate -4% by volume or desmodur.
You can get by with cold gluing, but I recommend it only for emergency repairs in nature. you need to catch the edge when the glue is not completely dry.
To glue the bottom, you need to tear it off completely, warm it up with a hairdryer, and clean it CAREFULLY, not to the base! Glue the sealing tape, then the bottom. Iron and press with a plate (10*10 cm) from the center to the edges, press the tape through the bottom and press at the junction of the tape and the bottom with the corner of the plate or the back of the scissors. We do everything on a tightly inflated boat! Afterwards, we lower and roll all the gluing places with a roller, pump it up to 90% and leave it for 2 days. You need to work at a temperature not lower than +16, not in the sun, apply the glue in a THIN layer 3 times with intermediate drying on both surfaces, before gluing, check the glue: with a light touch, the finger should not stick, with a strong touch, it will stick.
Adhesive for rubber boats-4508 Add and mix well polyisocyanate -4% by volume or desmodur acts for 2-4 hours, then dilute a new one.
Sealing tape. This is rubberized fabric cut from a roll at an angle of 45
There are also boats from Hypalon (Hipalon). This is synthetic rubber, or more precisely chlorosulfonated polyethylene from the French company ORKA. Really rare, but just in case:
Preparation
Make sure the surface is dry and clean. Mark the area to be repaired using a chemical pencil and applying a template shaped to match the area being repaired. Sand the entire area outlined with a chemical pencil with fine sandpaper until the surface of the material becomes slightly fleecy. If possible, clean the treated surface from possible contamination a carbon tetrachloride type solvent or a specially developed Bostic 501 composition.
Gluing
Only recommended types of adhesives should be used - "Bostic 2402", "Bostic 2405", "Dunlop 2000", "Tiptop 2000" or others special adhesives for hypalon.
When everything is ready, mix with glue required amount hardener (do not exceed the dosage!) and apply a thin layer on both surfaces to be glued - on the patch and on the repair area (make sure that the glue does not get beyond the borders of the patch, since it leaves dark brown spots when it dries). After 30 minutes, repeat the entire process, applying a thin layer of glue to both surfaces and, do not forget that the glue should not stain your inflatable boat!
After about 10 minutes, or when the second layer of adhesive has dried tack-free, apply the patch to the designated area, making sure that the inflatable cylinder is placed on a flat surface so that pressure is applied evenly to the patch.
Using a round object, such as the handle of a large screwdriver, smooth the patch over the entire surface to be glued, Special attention giving it to the edges.
Leave the boat with the patch lying flat for about one hour. Then you can carefully give the sides a rounded shape, but do not inflate them to working condition. The air cylinders should not be inflated to operating pressure for approximately 24 hours.
If a drop of glue has leaked past the gluing area, it should be removed immediately. How longer glue will remain on the sides, the more difficult it will be to get rid of it. Delamination is more difficult to detect. You need to spend as much time on this as necessary, but be sure to find the place of delamination. You should thoroughly clean the area of delamination, removing all traces of old glue so that both surfaces are completely clean. The preparation procedure for gluing two surfaces was described earlier. Then it is necessary to separate both surfaces to be glued and connect them only after applying two layers of glue with intermediate drying and only after the second layer has dried “tack-free”. Both surfaces to be glued must lie on flat base. Smooth out the edges of the glue.
I would be glad if I helped someone rubber boat repair.
The article contains some tips on how to seal a rubber boat. The technique works, it’s been tested.
I have already said that I am a supporter of fishing from the shore, but still, sometimes situations arise when you have to go out into open water on a rubber boat. I don’t have my own watercraft, but my friends, who are fans of fishing from a boat, have inflatable vessels designed for 1-2 fishermen. For those who fish from an inflatable boat, it has always been and remains topical issue about the reliability of the boat itself, the quality of the material from which it is made. In addition, it is important to store the rubber boat, otherwise the watercraft will leak.
This happens for various reasons
- Improper storage (high or low temperature)
- The boat was folded incorrectly
- Not regularly drying the boat
- Accidentally, a hook got into the sides of a rubber boat, or when aground, they “ran over” a piece of snags or rebar
- And just in the car, there is a possibility that there is a sharp object in the trunk that will certainly pierce the boat fabric.
There are many reasons that cause damage to a boat, but the result is always the same - such a boat becomes unusable. What to do?
The answer immediately suggests itself - seal the rubber boat
This is exactly what many people do, but it doesn’t work out for them. In this article I will try to briefly give some recommendations on how to apply your knowledge as correctly and systematically as possible in order to correctly seal a rubber boat and continue fishing in the future.
- Surely, when you bought the boat, a repair kit was included with it. Rule 1: This kit should always be nearby, because the manufacturer selects the maximum effective means to repair your ships, and all you have to do is follow the instructions.
- Glue. In principle, you can take any waterproof glue for gluing PVC, rubber, etc. But, in order to be completely sure of the quality, it is advisable to purchase glue in specialized stores (often, glue and patches for boats are sold in fishing and hunting stores.
These are the two main points that you need to pay attention to. And then, the actual repair of the boat. It is customary to distinguish between ordinary small punctures, large punctures and torn coating violations, and material divergence along the seam. The simplest, and as practice shows, reliable and durable, is to seal small and medium punctures.
Below is an approximate method for sealing a boat
1.Inflate the boat, lower it into the water, carefully inspect it, identify all punctures, and mark them with a waterproof marker.
2.Next, take the boat out, dry it, and use a rag with acetone or gasoline (or the product from the repair kit) to clean the surface of the boat and the patches. Sandpaper It’s better not to use it, since in the absence of experience it is quite possible to wear the boat to holes.
3. In some cases, you can sew up the fabric of the boat with nylon thread
4.Then, apply glue to the surface of the damage (seam) and the patch, capturing approximately 3-5 centimeters of the entire tissue. Let the glue dry for 5-10 minutes, then repeat the manipulation 2 more times.
6.When the last layer of glue has dried, you need to straighten the fabric of the balloon, the patches and carefully combine them, it is advisable to provide some pressure and short, moderate heating of the area to be glued.
7.If the puncture or tear was extensive, you can glue another additional patch on top of the patch.
8.After 2-4 days the boat will be ready for use
I want to draw your attention that on some glue packages there is a recommendation for its use, in particular for gluing waterproof fabrics, PVC, etc. So, sometimes, you don’t need to invent a “bicycle”, you just need to follow the instructions.
Over time, the appearance of various holes cannot be avoided. To remove them you will need to purchase glue. Considering that stores offer big choice of this product, it is always difficult to decide.
Types of holes
Every fisherman who uses a rubber boat knows how easily it can be damaged. Even careless movement of the oar when it is strong can lead to serious consequences.
Damage to a boat can be completely different:
- as a result of a slight puncture, small holes appear;
- As a result of careless handling, cuts and cracks of quite long length may appear.
After detecting minor damage, you must immediately proceed to repair, otherwise the material in this place will subsequently begin to crack, and repairing the crack will take a lot of effort and time.
What glue is suitable?
After discovering holes, many citizens struggle for a long time with the choice of glue. Not every option is suitable. When choosing it, it is important to consider the following points:
- It is not advisable to take a budget option. There is a chance that you will purchase an incomprehensible mixture that will not repair the hole, but will rather harm the rubber.
- If you want to say goodbye to the damage for a long time, then you do not need to purchase superglue. They can glue holes, but your joy will be short-lived.
- It is worth choosing glue with high heat resistance.
- Should not be purchased universal remedies. They won't suit you very well. You need to pay attention to options that are designed specifically for spell rubber.
The best glue option usually comes with the boat. But if they didn’t supply it to you or the boat was bought second-hand, then you can buy black glue called “Radical”. It occurs in most construction stores. This product has good strength and water resistance.
Some citizens also choose polychloroprene glue for sealing boats. Before purchasing it, be sure to study its composition. It is included on every package.
An important parameter is heat resistance. The higher it is, the higher quality the product will be.
Patch material?
Before starting repairs, you need to stock up on tools and materials that will definitely be useful to you in the process. For this you will need:
- special glue;
- pieces of rubber. They are necessary for use as patches. The size is selected based on the width of the crack.
Boat repair
When repairing a rubber boat, problems arise mainly among beginners. For experienced fishermen who prefer this type of transport, this procedure is commonplace.
How to catch more fish?
I have been active fishing for quite some time and have found many ways to improve the bite. And here are the most effective:
- Bite activator. Attracts fish in cold and warm water with the help of pheromones included in the composition and stimulates her appetite. It’s a pity that Rosprirodnadzor wants to impose a ban on its sale.
- More sensitive gear. Reviews and instructions for other types of gear can be found on the pages of my website.
- Lures using pheromones.
You can get the rest of the secrets of successful fishing for free by reading our other articles on the site.
First you need to determine the location of the damage and prepare necessary materials. They should then be carefully glued to the boat. This process will not take much time and effort. But for the first time, it is better to seek help from citizens who have already carried out this process.
Preparation
Before repairing, you need to find out where the leak occurred. To do this you will need:
The pieces of rubber prepared in advance should be slightly larger than the hole.
This is necessary so that the rubber completely covers the hole. Besides, this advice will allow you to round off the remaining material and thanks to this, the fabric will not move away from the surface of the boat over time.
Gluing
The boat repair process is as follows:
- We cut the rubber. It is desirable that it be of exactly the same material as the boat. Many manufacturers provide material recommended for these purposes.
- We process the surface. For reliable adhesion, the surface of the boat should be rubbed with sandpaper or fine-grained paper. Then it will become slightly rough, and due to this the rubber piece will stick tightly to the boat. Then we rub the patches themselves in exactly the same way.
- We sew up the incisions. The resulting cuts must be sealed with nylon threads. The tighter the stitches are applied, the longer there will be no new damage in this area.
- Degrease. Before use, rubber must be degreased using special means such as: gasoline, acetone and thinner. The selected material is applied to the rough surface near the hole and to each patch you cut. Due to this, dust and dirt will be removed from it.
- Apply glue. This must be done on a rough boat surface. There is no need to pour glue on the patch. It is usually applied in 2 layers:
- The first, thin layer of glue is applied using a glue brush. After this, the surface must be given time to dry, usually this takes at least 10 minutes. The amount of time it takes for the adhesive to dry may vary depending on the conditions in which the repair is being carried out. You can check whether the glue has dried or not using a pencil or knife.
- the second layer is applied after the first, this is done in exactly the same way as in the previous version. Without letting it dry, apply a patch. It should be taken with both hands and very carefully applied to the glue.
Remember that once the patch is applied, its position cannot be changed.
- Smooth it out. After the patch has been applied to the surface, you need to start smoothing it out. This way the air will be removed from under it.
This completes the repair process. Remember that it is advisable not to use the boat for the next 3 days.
In order for the boat to serve for a long time, you need to follow these recommendations:
- some types of glue require additional drying when working; a regular hairdryer will help you with this;
- When using glue, it is best to work outside or in a ventilated area.
It is important that the air humidity does not exceed 60 percent.
Ignoring the above recommendations may lead to unexpected repeated failure. Remember that if you are sealing a hole at a temperature of more than 18 degrees or working with oily hands, then good result You can't count on it.
In order not to waste your time fixing holes, you need to carefully operate the boat. Of course, over time it will still have to be glued, because it is not eternal, but this process will have to be carried out only after many years of use.
If you are a fisherman, then you simply must have a rubber boat, because fishing from a boat has its advantages compared to shore fishing. Modern rubber boats are lightweight and easy to transport, there is no excessive noise during fishing that scares away fish, and they are quite easy to operate compared to boats made of metal and wood - actually a relic of the past. Of course everything has its own weak sides and a rubber boat will be no exception here. Its main disadvantage is that it is made of rubber and tends to get damaged. Careless handling of oars, pricking with any cutting objects, all this causes a violation of the integrity of the rubber coating. Moreover, these damages can be completely different - from a tiny hole to a large hole as a result of a cut, which occur during the most for various reasons. That is, sooner or later all this can happen to your boat and you need to know how to properly seal it, so this will be briefly described here.
How to properly seal a rubber boat? The first step is to find any existing holes in the boat. After all, even if you don’t notice a very small hole, over time it will increase in size and lead to the rupture of the boat, so you need to be careful. Actually detecting holes in a boat is quite simple. You need to pump it up and lower it into the water. If there are holes in the boat, then streams of air will come out of them, they need to be marked - for example, insert a match into the hole. More cuts There is no point in marking, they are already clearly visible. Once holes are found, repairs can begin.
Cutting patches. It is very important to make them from the material of your boat, this will guarantee quality. Although if you still have the instructions for the boat, it may indicate what material to use to repair the boat. The shape of the patches should be rectangular and the edges should be rounded. It is clear that they must be large enough to completely cover the hole.
The next step after cutting is to treat the surfaces. The rubber near the holes should be rubbed well with medium or coarse sandpaper. This is necessary in order to create roughness, because rough surfaces are very reliably and firmly connected to each other. The same thing needs to be done with cut patches.
At this stage we sew up the incisions. The roughness near the damage has been done, now you need to sew up medium and large cuts with nylon threads. The seams should be tight to minimize the likelihood of re-injury.
Before you begin gluing the boat, all subsequently bonded surfaces must be degreased. Here you can use your choice - gasoline, acetone or something like that. As a result, the rubber is degreased and characteristically swells, the grip will be better.
Apply glue to the surfaces to be glued. The glue should not be PVA, superglue or something like that, but special for rubber boats, it can be recommended by the manufacturer of your boat, very often it comes with the kit, as well as rubber for gluing damaged surfaces.
An important point is that glue should only be applied to the roughness on the boat itself, not to the patch. It is usually applied in two layers. Using a brush, apply the first layer and wait until it dries. When it's dry, apply a second coat.
Without allowing the second layer to dry, apply the patch. It must be taken carefully, without wrinkling, and applied to the glue. Try to do this the first time, because then it will be difficult to change its position. When you have finally applied it, level it evenly over the entire surface, smooth out any irregularities if they have formed, that is, you need to completely remove the air from under it. That's all, you sealed the boat with your own hands. You will be able to use your repaired boat in about three days.
By purchasing valuable and useful thing, any owner of it undoubtedly wants it to serve him as long as possible. In particular, lovers of fishing and hunting on open water, happy owners of rubber boats, treat their watercraft with trepidation and monitor their condition.
It's no secret that rubber is a special material that can often be damaged. To prevent the money spent on buying a boat from going down the drain, it is necessary proper care and repairs for personal water transport.
Popular brands of glue for rubber boats
The most reliable means for repairing rubber boats is undoubtedly glue. Its correct choice, in terms of composition, characteristics and purpose, guarantees the quality of repairs and the service life of the boat.
Let's consider the most popular brands of glue that have proven themselves among boat owners:
Glue 4508 (rubber, based on Nairit DP rubber)
This brand is considered the most effective for repairing all rubber products and, in particular, boats. Has high strength. Distinctive feature from other adhesives - does not require heating the product during work. If you use it in combination with hardeners (“Leukonate” or “Dismodur”), the wear resistance of the composition increases significantly.
Polyurethane glue for PVC boats
Polyurethane, as a substance, has special adhesive properties. In addition, it is plastic and does not lend itself to mechanical stress.
Radical
Adhesive withstand low temperatures, pressure and loads, adapted to sea water.
Gum
This glue contains natural rubber. Distinctive quality– increased water resistance of the repaired product.
Rubber glue NK
It is a solution of rubber and nefras. Gluing is carried out using the “cold” method.
Adhesives 88 SA, 88-NP, 88-N
These grades are suitable for bonding rubber surfaces, but are used for a specific problem.
Which glue to choose?
To eliminate defects on the surface of the case, it is best to use glue 4508. The natural rubber and resins included in its composition become elastic when hardened, so this glue can withstand loads and pressure well, and has high water-resistant properties.
Also for repair work Rubber glue and polyurethane adhesives work well.
Gluing a rubber boat, step-by-step instructions
In order to start repairing a boat with your own hands, you need to correctly identify the problem and its location.
The most common problems
- holes;
- tears on surfaces and at seams;
- damage to oarlocks;
- bottom defects;
- damage and deformation of tapes.
If it is not possible to visually determine minor damage to the body or bottom, you should gradually inflate its compartments and treat the surface with a foaming soap solution. Bubbles will form at the rupture site, indicating the location of the defect dislocation.
Necessary tools and tools
- glue and instructions for it;
- “Galosha” gasoline (automotive gasoline will not work, as it contains oil);
- patch material;
- self-adhesive tape;
- sandpaper (fine-grained);
- marker;
- brush;
- scissors.
Basic “steps” of repair
Determining the location of the rupture
Significant damage such as holes, cuts and tears will help identify visual inspection. If the boat allows air to pass through, but the defect location is not found, as mentioned above, you will need detergent, which covers all cameras in turn. Inflated.
Treating the edges of the damaged area
Having identified the defect, its size and location, the edges of the damaged surfaces are processed before gluing.
The area of intended gluing is cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper. This is necessary in order to increase the quality of adhesion of materials and glue to each other. The fragment cleaned using “sandpaper” is treated with “Galosha” gasoline for a degreasing effect.
Gluing
If additional components are used for gluing surfaces, such as hardeners or similar substances, the adhesive mass must be prepared in advance.
According to the instructions, glue is applied to the contact points of the elements in a thin layer.
In some cases, after applying the glue, it is necessary to maintain a certain temporary exposure for better contact, among themselves, adhesive fragments.
Repair instructions for individual components
Gluing a rubber boat along the seam
Fishermen and hunters who use rubber boats are well aware that elements such as seams are the first to fail. What does it look like? The special tape that protects the seam begins to peel off over time, allows water to pass through and can contribute to rotting of the suture material.
First, the watercraft should be thoroughly dried and make sure that there is no moisture left anywhere.
Boat seam repairs should be carried out in a dry, ventilated and warm room. At the beginning, the boat should be inflated, but not too much. Then, determine the location of the detachment or damage. Lightly sand it, degrease it and apply the glue itself directly.
It is necessary to ensure that the adhesive is distributed evenly over the entire area. Next, the surfaces are pressed tightly against each other and fixed with fingers or a press for several minutes. To fully achieve the effect, the boat, with taped seams, is left in an inflated state for the time specified in the instructions.
Gluing the transom
The transom of a boat is a special area that can withstand the highest loads, since the motor is attached to it. Under the pressure of the weight of the motor, this element often fails and requires constant repair.
To glue the transom, you need to choose a high-quality adhesive. They cope with this task perfectly polyurethane adhesives. Due to their special composition, they have a high adhesive effect, capable of holding foreign materials (plastic, wood) on the rubber surface.
Rubber rubber adhesive is a popular rubber adhesive that contains natural rubber, urethanes, and various specific additives. It has proven itself as a repair tool. various surfaces and materials, including rubber.
Due to its increased viscosity and increased elasticity, this adhesive has the following positive effects:
- corrosion resistance;
- vibration resistance;
- resistance to mechanical damage;
- resistance to abrasive materials;
- resistance to deformation.
FAQ
Is it possible to use Moment glue in the repair of rubber boats?
Based on practice, experts and experienced fishermen do not recommend using Moment glue for repairing watercraft. This glue reacts to high temperatures and dries out when exposed to sunlight.
How to remove old glue from a rubber boat
It is worth taking into account that when the glue comes into contact with a rubber surface, a vulcanization effect occurs, in which the glue itself seems to be embedded inside the rubber. Therefore, it is not worth tearing off by hand or removing with solvents and other aggressive substances, as this can cause damage to the fabric.
In conclusion, I would like to remind you that sealing a damaged boat at home is one thing. But if it breaks down in nature, it’s not an easy task. Therefore, when going fishing or hunting, keep a boat repair kit with you.
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