Article text updated: 12/7/2018
Most of my photos posted in travel reports or in photo tutorials contain basic information from EXIF (Exchangeable Image File Format - data about shooting parameters, authorship, image processing program, etc.): shutter speed, exposure compensation, aperture, ISO and focal length lens. I publish these parameters at the request of novice amateur photographers who hope to find out in this way what settings are best for photographing certain subjects. I think that a more effective way is to figure out once and for all what parameters should be adjusted when shooting, what they affect and how they help to get a high-quality image.
Honestly, I believe that learning to choose correct parameters shooting is much easier by reading a photography textbook, camera instructions and trying out the knowledge gained in practice than learning from scattered articles on the Internet. The tips presented in today's photo tutorial are just an overview of the areas that a photographer must understand in order to get a clear, juicy, pleasing-looking picture. Even the basics include a very large amount of information, so in order not to get lost in the wilds of today's photo tutorial, let's see its contents.
- What is ISO, shutter speed and aperture. The effect of these settings on exposure.
- Why photos can be soapy due to long exposure.
- What are the advantages of high-aperture optics for a photographer?
- How to choose best mode shooting (PASM).
- Examples of settings for photographing various scenes.
- A portrait with a harsh background.
- Portrait with a blurred background.
- Options for landscape photography during the day.
- Landscape at night.
- Setting up a camera for shooting a wedding.
- How to set up a camera for a group portrait.
- Options for shooting a concert or matinee.
- Additional digital camera settings.
- Select the image quality when shooting in JPEG.
- You always need to adjust the white balance when shooting in JPEG.
- Single frame and continuous shooting.
- Autofocus setting.
- Metering mode. Exposure compensation. Bar chart. Active D-Lighting.
- Why exposure bracketing is needed.
- Brightness, juiciness, contrast settings when shooting in JPEG.
- Flash settings.
- How does the "Auto ISO" function work?
- Learn how to take good photos. It's not just the settings.
- Conclusion.
1. Basic settings of any digital camera: shutter speed, ISO and aperture
What is a digital camera (doesn't matter if it's a DSLR, mirrorless, soapbox or even a smartphone)? Enlarged - this is the case in which the light-sensitive element is located (the terms are also used: matrix or sensor, light-sensitive sensor), on which the light passing through the lens falls.
In the normal state, the sensor is closed from exposure to light by a shutter consisting of shutters. When we press the "Shutter" button, the shutters open for a predetermined time, during which the light waves act on the matrix, and then close again. Inside the lens there are lenses that allow you to zoom in and focus (sharpen) on the subject, and a diaphragm (a partition of several petals) that allows you to expand or narrow the diameter of the light flux passing through the lens.
One of the main parameters of shooting is the correct exposure of the photo. Very generally, we can say that this is the amount of light that manages to get on the matrix between opening and closing the shutter. When the exposure is correct, the picture looks normal, when there is little light, the image will be dark, and if there is a lot, it will be too light.
© 2012 website
Sometimes you can make a great photo out of a good one.
bypassing only the means of the camera.
I recommend to any novice photographer, whenever possible, to actively use the automatic camera. This applies to matrix metering, autofocus, automatic white balance, and everything else that can only be automated, and which modern cameras often do better than modern photographers. Put all the hard work on the camera, and pay more attention to finding beautiful scenes and harmonious frame composition.
But there are times when a camera that imagines itself too smart has to be taken with a tight rein.
Shot on full auto. What nonsense?
It didn't look like it at all!
It turns out that some simple manipulations can significantly improve the look of your pictures. I mean your good pictures. Mediocre shots with poor composition or dull lighting won't stop being mediocre no matter how much you fiddle with your camera settings.
The two most important parameters that you should be able to configure is exposure compensation and white balance. These settings are available for all cameras - the difference is only in the convenience of working with them. More expensive cameras allow you to adjust exposure and white balance directly, while cheaper ones can make you fiddle with menus. Please refer to your camera manual for details.
Keep in mind that the green mode so beloved by beginners ( AUTO) usually does not allow the photographer to control exposure, white balance, or many other useful camera options. The same applies to the stupid scene modes (portrait, landscape, macro, etc.), which severely limit the flight of fancy.
(exposure compensation) is used to forcefully change exposure in automatic modes. Matrix metering of modern cameras works well in most situations, but in difficult lighting conditions it can be wrong. Many cameras tend to overexpose when the scene's contrast is high, as well as underexpose when shooting low-contrast highlight scenes. It is for these cases that exposure compensation was invented. If the picture comes out too bright, you reduce the exposure, i.e. enter a negative correction and get a correctly exposed frame. If the picture is too dark, the exposure should be increased.
On most cameras for exposure compensation you need to press the button +/- and turn the wheel to change the exposure up or down. Some cameras are equipped with a separate exposure compensation control, and in some you have to set the appropriate correction through a special menu.
white balance
White balance is called so because its task is to preserve White color in the pictures it is white, regardless of the lighting, whether it is the reddish rays of the setting sun or the blue-green light of a mercury lamp. By choosing a white balance value that matches the current lighting conditions, you achieve the most natural colors. Also, like any other customizable camera setting, white balance can be used for creative purposes. After all, no one forbids setting the “wrong” white balance in order to deliberately distort the colors in the picture. Auto white balance generally produces acceptable results in daylight, but unusual light often requires you to intervene with the camera.
Why is all this necessary?
And then, that the camera sees the world differently than a person. She is unable to appreciate the beauty and exclusivity of the scene being filmed. The algorithms that control it are designed to obtain more or less acceptable images in conditions close to standard, and in fact it is non-standard conditions that most often turn out to be the most attractive for shooting.
It’s not enough just to see a photogenic scene, you need to imagine how the camera will see it and make the appropriate adjustments. In the digital age, this is easy to do. Take a test shot and look at the screen - if the image doesn't look the way you'd like, make adjustments and shoot again until you're happy with the result. Over time, your experience will allow you to anticipate the necessary adjustments before shooting.
I do not urge you to blindly copy the surrounding reality. Usually I don't shoot what my eyes see, but what my mind sees. Nature is beautiful, but why not make it even better if it is necessary for creative self-expression?
Is it possible to correct errors later?
As for the exposure, no, you can't. Overexposure is not allowed in digital photography. Even if you shoot in RAW, RAW converters (contrary to what the developers claim) are very limited in terms of pulling out blown highlights. Underexposure is easier to fix, although at the cost of increased shadow noise. Correctly setting the white balance is not critical when shooting in RAW - you can easily change the balance when converting. Correcting an incorrect white balance in a JPEG file can be a very time consuming, although feasible task. However, I prefer to set the white balance as soon as possible, even when shooting in RAW. This allows me to more accurately judge the exposure of individual channels using a color histogram, and it also makes my images look more aesthetically pleasing even before they're converted to JPEG.
What else can be improved?
Almost all modern digital cameras allow you to adjust general form pictures or. so-called image style. Nikon calls it Picture Control, Canon calls it Picture Style, Sony calls it Creative Style, Pentax calls it Custom Image, Olympus calls it Picture Mode. Regardless of the name dictated by the manufacturer's imagination, all these menus do the same thing: they adjust the contrast, brightness, color saturation, sharpness and some other image parameters. It is possible to choose one of the established schemes(Portrait, Landscape, etc.) in accordance with the shooting scene, or create your own bank of settings. For example, I almost always shoot nature and landscapes in the Vivid style (or similar), and the Saturation parameter is often additionally raised to get more saturated colors, and the Contrast parameter, on the contrary, is slightly reduced to better control over complex light. If I shoot people with these settings, their faces will turn out to be unnaturally red, which is unlikely to be to their liking, and therefore the Portrait or Neutral scheme seems to be more preferable. For product photography, I usually use the Standard scheme, slightly raising the color saturation and lowering the contrast, which is necessary for more accurate color reproduction. You are free to use any style you like. There can be no irrefutable decisions here.
In essence, Picture Style settings mimic choosing one or another type of film, but unlike film photography, where you were limited to a single roll of film, in digital photography you are free to set the style for each frame individually.
When shooting in JPEG, you definitely need to select the appropriate style before shooting. When shooting in RAW, this does not matter. Style will only affect how the photo will look when viewed on the camera screen. I like this feature because it allows me to better evaluate the received shots in the field, while I still have a chance to reshoot them; allows you to show pictures to others immediately after shooting, and also reduces the time spent on processing if the picture does not need it. If you're only shooting in RAW, manually converting all your shots, and showing the public only the final result of your work, set the Picture Style to Neutral (Faithfull) or Standard, and shoot all scenes that way.
And now - one more example.
The first picture was taken in automatic mode. I saw this scene very differently.
First of all, the picture is overexposed. The birch trunks and the reflection on the log floating in the lake are devoid of texture. The forest in the background, as well as the water in the lake, seemed almost black to me, but here they are of some indefinite cloudy tone.
Exposure compensation of -0.7 EV brought out details in the highlights and returned the shadows to their rightful place. But what about color? Why is it so cold? It was evening, and the shore of the lake was bathed in the golden rays of the setting sun. Is it possible to take a warmer picture?
Can. The white shade balance helped convey the warm evening flavor, but the colors still lack saturation and the scene as a whole lacks contrast.
That's much better! By changing the style to vivid, I was finally able to convey the fabulous atmosphere of a forest lake. The scene gained volume and depth, and the trees began to glow on dark background. (Move over to compare with the first picture.)
As you can see, the changes I made were not so significant, but the look of the photo changed in a striking way.
Thank you for your attention!
Vasily A.
post scriptum
If the article turned out to be useful and informative for you, you can kindly support the project by contributing to its development. If you did not like the article, but you have thoughts on how to make it better, your criticism will be accepted with no less gratitude.
Do not forget that this article is subject to copyright. Reprinting and quoting are permissible provided there is a valid link to the original source, and the text used must not be distorted or modified in any way.
18.09.2015 9161 photography tips 0
Whether you've just been given a brand new camera or you've given in to your impulse to shoot better than your smartphone can, here are some tips on how to set up your treasure for the first time. It is this request in search engines often leads you, our dear readers, to our website.
So, I decided to give you some tips about this, 12 tips, and here you will find all necessary information how to properly set up your camera for a beginner.
Council number 1. Charge your battery
If your camera does not come with AA batteries, which you must purchase yourself, then the first thing you will need to do after opening the box is to charge the battery.
Most cameras come with Charger, in which you want to insert the battery, and then connect it to the network. But there are also cameras that allow you to charge the battery inside the camera via a USB connection. Carefully read the instructions for your purchase in this regard.
All necessary cables or charger should be in the box with the camera.
Council number 2. Format your memory card
As soon as the battery is charged, insert it into the compartment provided for it (the card must be purchased additionally, in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations - read the instructions again). Then turn on the camera, enter the menu and find the format function.
Formatting the card prepares it for use and removes all existing images from the card. If you've used the card before, make sure you download any images you want to keep from it.
Council number 3. Image quality and size
All cameras are capable of capturing images in different and different quality. If you want to take the best shots, then set best option image quality. It may be called Highest JPEG, Fine JPEG, or Extra Fine JPEG.
If you're new to photography, don't shoot RAW files by yourself, shoot at the same time as JPEGs - this option will come in handy when you gain some experience and can process your photo archive. In the future, you'd better switch to the RAW format completely.
Council number 4. white balance
Our eyes and brain compensate well various colors of the light we are facing, so we see white objects as white.
The camera's white balance (WB) system is designed for the same purpose and in most cases setting automatic mode gives good result. But when shooting in JPEG format, in some situations it is not enough - in certain lighting conditions it is better to choose the "fluorescent lamp" (fluorescent lamp) or "incandescent lamp" mode, depending on the lighting.
If you are shooting in RAW format, then the WB setting, feel free to set it to Auto mode - you will set the desired light temperature during post-processing in the editor (provided that you have these skills).
Council number 5. Exposure metering
Many cameras offer three metering modes that allow you to evaluate the brightness of light and suggest appropriate exposure settings: spot, matrix, and multi-zone.
It's best to set multizone to start with, this mode is a good choice as it takes into account the brightness across the entire surface of the scene and tries to recommend exposure settings that will produce a beautifully balanced shot. In the process of mastering the camera, you will use all three modes, depending on the shooting tasks.
Council number 6. Focusing
A modern camera offers several. In AF-S (Single) mode, the camera will focus on the subject according to the active AF points when the shutter button is pressed halfway. Once it is in focus, the lens will keep focus for as long as you keep the button pressed. This is a good option for many situations, but if the subject is moving, the focus will not be corrected.
Many cameras have an AF-A (Auto) option that automatically detects if the subject is moving.
If the subject is stationary, then Single-AF is used, but if it moves, the camera activates the continuous autofocus system, that is, the focus is adjusted as needed.
If your camera has an auto focus mode, then set it.
Council number 7. Selecting AF Points
Most cameras have a setting that tells the equipment which autofocus points to use. it a good choice if you are a beginner.
The camera has a tendency to focus on what is closest to the center of the frame. So if your subject is not quite centered and there are other objects between it and the camera, then keep an eye on what your camera is focusing on.
Switch to single-point AF (or similar) if necessary. It allows you to set the AF point using the navigation buttons.
Tip #8. Shooting mode: single shot and continuous shooting
When your camera is in single shot mode, it takes one shot each time you press the shutter button. Even if you keep your finger pressed.
In "continuous shooting" mode, it will continue to take pictures until you release the button or until the buffer or memory card is full.
This mode is useful when taking pictures of moving subjects, but in most cases you'll want to take one photo at a time.
Tip #9. Image stabilization
The slightest accidental camera movement can blur your images at relatively slow shutter speeds, but this can be easily fixed with the help of an image stabilization system (some cameras use , most use it in the lens).
Stabilization works by shifting the sensor or elements inside the lens to compensate for camera shake. As a rule, the stabilization system is very effective and allows you to use a slower shutter speed.
If you shoot handheld, be sure to activate image stabilization, but when you install the camera on a tripod, turn it off.
Tip number 10. color space
Many cameras offer two color spaces to choose from: . Adobe RGB has a larger color range than sRGB. Therefore he will the best option In most cases.
Tip #11. Picture Style or Picture Control
Most cameras can process images using a number of various ways using Picture Style, Picture Control, color modes, or film simulation.
As a rule, there are several options. One produces black and white (monochrome) images, the other boosts saturation to make the image brighter, "landscape" enhances blue and green color etc.
By default, the camera uses the "standard" option, which is usually suitable for most situations, so make sure that is set. And you can easily get the rest of the effects in the graphic editor during the subsequent processing of the frame.
Tip #12. Shooting modes
The vast majority of beginners immediately set the Auto mode after purchase (well, such a cool camera, it will definitely do everything right for me!). And this is a mistake. You need to immediately understand and use creative modes: aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode and manual mode. On most cameras, they are marked as "A", "S", "M", respectively. If you have a Canon camera, you will notice that it likes to be special, and the same modes are labeled Av, Tv, M on it (Av is aperture priority mode, Tv is shutter priority mode, M is manual mode).
You are probably a little scared to switch to creative modes, but I categorically insist with them, and in most cases, use aperture priority mode as a tool for adjusting exposure and depth of field (DOF).
That, in principle, is all, now you can safely go on a photo hunt for masterpieces. Although ... I don’t want to call this tip "thirteenth", I'm a little superstitious, but still - take a look at our free.
If you have any questions - ask them on the site's forum, in our photo club. All you photographic!
If you have just started to master the art of photography and have acquired for this good camera, then you will need knowledge of how to set it up after purchase. In this article, we will give you all the information you need.
Step #1: Charging the Battery
In order to set up the camera, you must first charge it. This should be done immediately after opening the package. As a rule, a special charger is supplied with the camera, into which you need to insert the battery, and then connect it to electrical network. But there are also batteries that are charged inside the camera itself via a USB connection. All charging cables must be inside the box.
Step 2: format the memory card
As soon as the battery is charged, you need to insert a memory card into a special slot. After that, turn on the camera and press the "menu" button and find the option to format. Please note that formatting will delete all files from the card. Therefore, if you used a memory card, then make sure you download valuable images from it.
Step 3: Image size and quality: Extra Fine and Large
To take pictures best quality choose the size of the picture, which is called Large. Only then can you get the most out of your pixels. Next, set the most optimal picture quality option, which can be called ExtraFine JPEG, Highest JPEG or Fine JPEG.
If you're new to the art of photography, then don't shoot RAW files on their own, but shoot as JPEGs at the same time. After you gain experience, this option will come in handy.
Step 4: Auto White Balance
In order to adjust the camera, it is necessary to take into account the balance white color. As a rule, setting the auto mode gives excellent results. But sometimes it is not enough. And in some cases of lighting, you must select the "incandescent lamp" or "fluorescent lamp" (fluorescent lamp) mode. You should start adjusting the white balance yourself later.
Step #5: Metering exposure: multi-segment, matrix or evaluative
Most cameras offer 3 metering modes with which you can estimate the brightness of the light and suggest exposure settings. In addition to spot and center-weighted metering, there is a third option - evaluative. It is also called matrix or multisegment. This mode will excellent choice, as it takes into account the brightness of light across the scene and recommends exposure settings that produce a balanced shot.
Step #6: Focus - SingleAF or AutoAF
In SingleAF mode, the camera focuses on the subject, taking into account the active AF points when the shutter is pressed halfway. Once the camera is in focus, the lens will begin to focus until you press the button all the way down. This is a great option for most situations. True, if the subject is in motion, the focus will not be adjusted.
Many cameras have a special Auto-AF option. It automatically determines whether the object is in motion or not. Typically, if the subject is stationary, then Single-AF is applied, and if it moves, then continuous autofocus is activated. Use autofocus to set up your camera, otherwise set to Single-AF.
Step #7: AF Points - Auto Select
Many cameras have a setting that tells the equipment which autofocus points to use. If you are a beginner, then such a device will be a good choice for you.
Step #8: Choose a Shooting Mode: "Continuous Shooting" or "Single Shot"
If the camera you are setting up is in single shot mode, that means it takes one picture each time you press the button.
With continuous shooting, the camera will take pictures until the memory card is full or until you stop holding your finger on the button. This mode will be useful when shooting subjects that are in motion.
Step #9: Turn Image Stabilization On or Off
The slightest movement of the camera can cause photos to be blurry. But this is easily avoided by using the image stabilization system in the lens or the camera itself. If you are shooting handheld, be sure to activate the stabilization, and when mounted on a tripod, turn it off.
Step #10: Adobe RGB - Color Space
To set up the camera, you must select a color space - Adobe RGB or SRGB. The first option has a wider color range.
As you can see, setting up the camera is not so difficult. If you have carefully read this short instruction and everything was done according to it, then you can safely start creating your first masterpieces!
If your camera does not accept AA batteries, then the first thing you will need to do after opening the box is charge the battery.
In some cases, a charger is supplied in which you need to insert the battery and then connect it to the mains. But there are also batteries that are charged inside the camera via a USB connection.
All necessary cables should be in the box with the camera.
No. 2. Format memory card
Once the battery is charged, insert the memory card into the slot provided for it. Then turn on the camera, press the "menu" button and look for the option to format.
Formatting the card prepares it for use and removes all existing images from the card.
If you've used the card before, make sure you download any images you want to keep from it.
Number 3. Image quality and size - Extra Fine (Highest JPEG) and Large
If you want to take the best pictures your camera can take, select the image size Large. Then you will get maximum benefit from all pixels.
Then set the best image quality option. It may be called Highest JPEG, Fine JPEG, or Extra Fine JPEG.
If your camera allows you to shoot RAW files, then you can use this feature at the same time as the JPEG format, because RAW files contain the largest number image data.
If you're new to photography, don't shoot RAW files by yourself, shoot at the same time as JPEGs. But you will need this option when you gain some experience.
No. 4. White balance - automatic mode
Our eyes and brains are really good at compensating for the different colors of light we encounter, which is why we see white objects as white.
The camera's white balance system is designed for the same purpose, and in most cases, setting it to automatic gives good results.
But in some situations it is not enough. And in specific lighting conditions, it is better to choose the "fluorescent lamp" (fluorescent lamp) or "incandescent lamp" mode.
Manual white balance allows you to set it by photographing a white object, such as a sheet of paper, but this option is worth considering later.
No. 5. Exposure metering: evaluative, matrix or multi-segment
Many cameras offer three metering modes that allow you to judge the brightness of light and suggest appropriate exposure settings.
In addition to center-weighted and spot metering, there is a third option called evaluative, matrix, multi-zone, or multi-segment.
This mode is a good choice as it takes into account the brightness across the entire surface of the scene and tries to recommend exposure settings that will produce a beautifully balanced shot.
No. 6. Focus: Auto-AF or Single-AF
In Singe-AF (Auto Focus Single) mode, the camera will focus on the subject according to the active AF points when the shutter button is pressed halfway.
Once it is in focus, the lens will keep focus for as long as you keep the button pressed. This is a good option for many situations, but if the subject is moving, the focus will not be corrected.
Many cameras have an Auto-AF option that automatically detects if the subject is moving.
If the subject is stationary, then Single-AF is used, but if it moves, the camera activates the continuous autofocus system, that is, the focus is adjusted as needed.
No. 7. AF Point Selection - Auto Mode
Most cameras have a setting that tells the equipment which autofocus points to use. This is a good choice if you are a beginner.
The camera has a tendency to focus on what is closest to the center of the frame. So if your subject is not quite centered and there are other objects between it and the camera, then keep an eye on what your camera is focusing on.
Switch to single-point AF (or similar) if necessary. It allows you to set the AF point using the navigation buttons.
No. 8. Shooting mode: "single shot" (Single) and "continuous shooting" (Continuous)
When your camera is in single shot mode, it takes one shot each time you press the shutter button. Even if you keep your finger pressed.
In "continuous shooting" mode, it will continue to take pictures until you release the button or until the buffer or memory card is full.
This mode is useful when taking pictures of moving subjects, but in most cases you'll want to take one photo at a time.
No. 9. Image stabilization - turn on or off
The slightest accidental camera movement can blur your images, but this can easily be fixed with the image stabilization system in your camera or lens.
It works by shifting the sensor or elements inside the lens to compensate for movement. As a rule, the stabilization system is very effective and allows you to use a fairly long shutter speed.
If you shoot handheld, be sure to activate image stabilization, but turn it off when mounting the camera on a tripod.
No. 10. Color space - Adobe RGB
Many cameras offer two color spaces to choose from: sRGB and Adobe RGB. Adobe RGB has a larger color range than sRGB. Therefore, it will be the best option in most cases.
No. 11. Picture Style or Picture Control - "Standard"
Most cameras can process images in a number of different ways, using Picture Style, Picture Control, color modes, or film simulation.
As a rule, there are several options. Including one that produces black and white (monochrome) images, another boosts saturation to make the image brighter, and "landscape" that enhances blues and greens.
By default, the camera uses the "standard" option, which is usually suitable for most situations, so make sure that is set.
Loading...