All photos from the article
In art graphics, there is such a term as pyrography, which literally means drawing with fire and for this they use a home-made or professional wood burning machine. But at the same time, we should not forget that not only solid wood can be finished here, but also plywood and cork, leather and dense fabric, cardboard and felt.
Only the tip of the tool itself, of course, will differ in size and even in configuration. We will tell you what types of devices are and whether you can make them yourself, and we also bring to your attention the video in this article.
Pyrography tools
Types of burners
Note. Regardless of the brand or even the brand of the manufacturer, all burning devices can be different not only in terms of price-quality ratio, but also in terms of the method of drawing.
- The most common device for wood burning is an apparatus with a nichrome loop, which is precisely the carrier of high temperature, acting on the principle of a spiral - on a circuit, that is, it heats up when zero and phase are closed through it. Factory devices often have a power switch, which can be smooth or stepping (clicky), which, in fact, makes no difference.
The main convenience of the wire loop is that it heats up and completely cools down in a few seconds, therefore, you do not have to keep such a device on all the time, and this, in turn, will have a positive effect on power consumption.
- In addition, for manual work, an apparatus with interchangeable nozzles is used, as in the photo above, which can also be used as a soldering iron when working with tin and rosin (electrical devices and boards). Such a device also heats up, like a conventional soldering iron, with the help of a built-in spiral at the nozzle holder, therefore, the process of heating and cooling takes a long time and during operation it is usually not disconnected from the mains.
But this disadvantage is to some extent compensated by the power switch and so that the nozzle does not completely cool down, the toggle switch is switched to the weakest mode, although it is better to replace the nozzles in a cold state, since the metal expands when heated and the holder can be broken.
- In addition to the usual, pointed nozzles, a burner, working on the principle of an electric soldering iron, can be put on a nozzle in the form of a stamp, that is, it will be the same nozzle, only with an ending in the form of a plane with a relief image. Such devices are most often used for marking or mass production of any crafts and operate from a 220V network.
- Of course, the most expensive tool is a machine tool - laser wood burning with high accuracy is achievable only with mechanized processing with numerical control. The advantage of a pyrograph is that it is controlled via a computer, and you can upload a program there with the image you need (drawing or inscription).
Assembling the device yourself
Note. To make an electric burner for wood with your own hands in this case we need a soldering iron, an old power supply, for example, from a screwdriver or mobile phone(in our case, it will be a charger from an iPhone 5.1V 2A), two thick needles (from a syringe and a sewing needle) and a barbecue skewer.
In addition, we need shoe threads, flux (rosin) and solder (tin).
To begin with, we bite off the nozzle socket from the needle for the syringe - we will not need it, but it is best to take the second copy not for medical purposes, but for sewing.
Now we take a barbecue skewer (by the way, you can do it yourself by breaking off a piece of a pine wooden slat) and attach the needles to it with synthetic shoe thread so that they are located along the wooden holder on opposite sides, as shown in the photo above. At the same time, try to make the sewing needle a little longer than the medical one, by about 2 mm.
Now we need to carefully bend the tip of the sewing needle to the medical one so that its tip falls just into the outlet section of the hole (so the fixation will be more reliable). But do not try to close the ends so that they are in tension - a light touch will be enough.
What characteristics should a CNC burner have, how do the products differ and is it possible to design them yourself? Experts warn, before going to the store for the device or trying to assemble it, you need to understand the mechanism of the CNC machine and think about which one will be optimal.
IN Lately pyrography is developing and gaining special demand, people order paintings and portraits burned on wood from professionals as souvenirs and gifts. Therefore, experienced craftsmen and lovers of this activity had the idea to open their own small business based on burning images.
The laser CNC burner is one of the latest developments.
CNC laser burner
The main distinguishing feature of the device is the ability to accurately cut and draw borders, a high result is achieved due to the fact that the machine draws dots on wood. Advantages of the laser machine:
- Thanks to high precision it is convenient to burn small inscriptions and plates with the machine - the image will be clear with bright contours.
- The laser burner is suitable for processing wood, leather, paper and film.
- The machine works properly in a room with low or high temperature, drafts and drops do not affect the functioning.
There are major drawbacks.
Since the machine draws with dots, it will not be possible to output halftones and shadows with a laser. Even an experienced artist with an optimally tuned program will not be able to achieve a three-dimensional image.
The laser CNC machine is running slowly. Experts assure that in order to paint a portrait measuring 25×25 centimeters, the master will have to spend about 13 hours. It must be taken into account that the picture will be light, and additional drawing may be required.
When you enlarge a photo before transferring it to the canvas, the burner will draw it with pixels. Externally, the image will resemble a mosaic.
Masters say that it emits too bright a glow, over time, such brightness will negatively affect vision.
Burner with nichrome thread
The device is equipped with a different mechanism of action, which gives the burnt images a significant volume, the drawings seem natural and saturated. The image is applied to the wood with a nichrome thread, the brightness of the color depends on the heating temperature of the thread and the time of exposure to the surface.
While drawing the shadows, the wire tip must be quickly drawn over the surface, without stopping on the tree. But if the drawing requires bright and thick lines, the wire can be left for 3-4 seconds.
The advantages of the machine include:
- The saturation of the picture is adjusted on the device with a special button.
- The function helps to give the image any intensity, depending on the wishes of the client.
- It is easy to burn pictures on wood and leather.
- To draw a picture measuring 25 × 25 centimeters, an experienced specialist will take 3 hours.
- The drawing will not be pixelated when stretching and enlarging the photo.
- During burning, the device does not emit harmful light.
Disadvantages of the unit
To perform the work efficiently, the master needs to maintain a constant temperature in the room. A small draft will cool the nichrome sting, white stripes and light areas will appear on the image, the work will have to be redone.
The nichrome sting wears out quickly, it is replaced every 5 paintings. Despite the fact that the thread has a low price, its replacement takes a lot of time.
Self-manufacturing of the machine
Since a wood burner is expensive, a person with a high income is able to purchase a product, craftsmen are trying to build machines with their own hands.
It is difficult to design such a product, a person will have to spend a lot of time, effort and money.
The engraving machine can serve as the basis for the manufacture of a laser burner
If the master has certain skills in electronics and uses tools well, it is easy to build the base yourself.
The experts claim easy way- construct a machine from an unnecessary printer, the device will move the table in the transverse direction using a belt drive and computer control.
Above the table, it is recommended to fix the carriage from a typewriter with a movable part that moves in all directions. The needle of the burner is fixed to the movable element. The final stage is to connect the engine to the computer through a special unit and install the optimal program suitable for burning images.
Experienced craftsmen assure that it is quite difficult to assemble a burner with your own hands. The probability that the product will work properly the first time is about 50%. The indicators make specialists think about the feasibility of producing such a unit at home.
Continuing the theme of the open source project*. Like all stories begin with words - it was in the evening ... In this situation, everything is a little different. Last year it was designed and assembled (almost on a bet) cnc router printed on a 3d printer. . The machine was assembled, launched, a 5.5 watt laser was hung. After the "game" with the laser, the router itself faded into the background. Started to burn. As you know, the laser works very well with vector graphics, in this regard it can be said that it has no equal, but problems begin with the raster. And here comes into force the human “I want more!”. Without hesitation, the first thing that came to mind was a nichrome burner that caught my eye a couple of years ago. Yes, and financial investments required much less than the cost of the laser itself.
How it works?
The principle of operation can be compared, or rather, tested with a soldering iron at hand. Heating it to the maximum temperature, start to slowly hold on wooden surface, the slower you swipe, the darker the burnt surface turns out, if you swipe it very quickly, the surface will not have time to burn out (too short contact with the surface) in the figure, you can depict it like this: (the software is built according to this algorithm)
At maximum speeds, the color remains virtually unchanged relative to the surface.
Design and assembly
Initially, the design should not be according to the classical scheme, but after a little thought, I decided to leave the classics all the same, because. it was necessary to test one structural element, namely the X-axis with a carriage. Simply put, how the carriage will behave on two linear bearings. Although the machine does not bear any load during operation, but still two, this is not enough, the Chinese backlash is merciless
In general, except for the "small things" in the design, only 8 printed parts are used, at which the start of the machine is already possible, in general details 11 on this moment, (mount for arduino, cover with coolers, etc.). Due to its “simplicity” of knots, in theory, the size can be any, in theory, because 8mm shafts are over a meter, I think it’s already not very good. Yes, and initially the machine was planned in such a size that an A3 sheet could easily fit. But due to the fact that, as it turned out later, I did not have 500 mm guides for the X axis, since I spent them on the router, but there were 800 mm in the bins. It became a pity to cut, left them as they are, from which the machine grew in size. As it turned out during operation, this is only a huge plus.
The frame is made of an aluminum square profile 20x20 mm around the perimeter, and the "table" is made of the same material 12x12 mm, it's all fastened with rivets. You can also twist it with bolts, but I didn’t bother with unnecessary movements, the rivets perform their task in full
What is good about such a frame, so that the wiring is easily hidden in the pipes, thereby winning the overall appearance
General form:
Electronics:
All this is built on the basis of Arduino UNO + cnc shield 3.0, respectively. Moreover, the shield in my household has the role of a gypsy, pumping from machine to machine ... one for all, a kind of prostitute churn)) (it's corny there is no money to order additionally). Firmware GRBL 1.1. This economy is powered, including the glow of the sting, from a 12-volt power supply 40A (40 is too much, there was simply no other) 20 - 25 amperes preliminary calculations quite enough.
Forced cooling of drivers
Software part:
To generate g-code I use a wonderful free program Converter Bmp to GCode. What I really liked is that there are black speed tinctures, i.e. experimentally select at what speed the black line is burned without spoiling the surface "without digging into it" and set this value in the program. Thus, I came to the conclusion that the sting glow regulator is essentially not needed, it is enough to set the maximum heat once during assembly and find the minimum black speed. In the future, when burning, if you need to make the photo lighter, then simply increase the speed of the black value, the sting moves faster, hence the "drawn" line is lighter. The maximum glow can be limited by only one parameter - the maximum speed of the carriage and acceleration, in my case the maximum speed of the carriage is 16700 mm / s, you can increase the speed by putting a pulley on the motor with a larger diameter. Search experiments are ongoing. After the code file is generated, it can already be pushed into any program that "knows how" to send code to the arduino. I use LaserGrbl, I'm already used to it, it's convenient that it shows the program execution time, you can press pause, and other goodies.
And now the mechanics are assembled, the electronics are connected, the arduino is flashed and configured to the parameters of the mechanics, I put the parameters into the keyboard by guessing my fingers, not knowing what step to take in Y, in general there are a lot of questions and tests ahead in my head.
First burn
Looking at this disgrace, scratching the back of his head with intelligent eyes, it became clear to that goat that it was necessary to change the program settings based on the characteristics of the mechanics. I decided to google a little, delve into the topic. Tons of useless pages on the net, a couple of centuries of YouTube videos that just show how it burns out, without any special voiceovers, in general, I didn’t learn anything from anyone, everything is so beautiful for everyone, but it’s not clear how. I came across a "mysterious" printer, I will not disclose its name, many will understand it, I will only say that I directly confused its price where the left is where the right is. And then I finally thought. The price for it is not small, there is probably some kind of chip, from which such an amount is added, so I did something wrong ...
Looking carefully at the first burning test, we conclude that the carriage speed is too high, the tip temperature is low, big step between lines. Change the settings, increase the temperature, burn:
Well, I thought better, but what kind of wild stripes? I understand that the distance between the bands is less where there is more black. But the fact is that over time, carbon deposits appear on the sting, as well as on soldering irons, and when it reaches a critical, let's say, mass, the carbon deposits are chipped off, and the temperature of the sting rises sharply, as a result of which a difference in shades appears, while the speed is constant. There was no need to invent a bicycle here, everything is already smart people they came up with for me, in which everything is beautiful and without jambs. Ruler. When approaching the X = 0 coordinate, the sting runs into a metal ruler, literally a centimeter. But here, too, there is a little trick, I did not find information about this on the network, I just followed the logic and errors. Option one is NOT correct:
It is not true that when approaching the ruler, the sting that receives some pressure on the surface due to the usual rubber band in my case, you need to "climb" onto the surface of our cleaner, and the thicker it is, the sadder it is, so the ruler should be the cheapest , i.e. the thinnest, but this is not enough, due to the fact that the sting is in a hot state, and nichrome is not quite such a hard material, hitting an acute angle simply bends the stings into a ram's horn. Exit. Sharpen the edge a little:
This can be done with the help of the daughter of a Bulgarian, or by any other means, there is no point in making it super sharp, it’s proven. Just sharpen the corner and the problem is solved.
Let's try next:
The result is literally on the face. And that's it, here it started! Burn all the plywood in the hut!
I won’t upload a lot of photos, because. not everything is perfect yet, tests are ahead, tests and more tests, you need to find its maximum capabilities, thereby increasing the speed. This is not a quick pleasure, the last two scorched photos were printed on average 5 and a half hours each, size 310x410. At the same time, the average speed based on the code is about 50-60% of its capabilities. This is very short, but that's it. The approximate amount of components for the assembly of this shaitan machine is about 4t.r (later I will give a more accurate amount) Based on whether it will be interesting for you further, the next article will follow, with the completed project and its final capabilities.
Link to kirviks projects
According to the author, his imagination has always been excited by the miracles that can be created with your own laser engraving machine. All attempts to lay a paw on such equipment ended in failure, which could not but upset ...
However, being an active and creative nature (that is, a real Mozgochin), he solved this problem simply - he made his own (albeit small) CNC machine. We will talk about this project in our article.
Despite the very small working area, the main advantage of the design is its simplicity and low cost. In turn, it means ease of repetition in a home workshop.
When working on the project, the author adhered to the principle maximum efficiency, that is, individual electronic components, the manufacture of which would require an unnecessary investment of time, were purchased ready-made. However, these parts are quite easy to find and order via the Internet (and for the most advanced, make it yourself).
The author is completely satisfied with the result obtained, even though there are opportunities for further improvement and modernization of the design. Of course small size and low power impose their limitations. However, the author has quite successfully established the production of paper stamps, plates for marking domestic plants, and the like. Of course, the machine will not fit into your pocket, but compared to other tools and equipment, it can still be called "pocket".
A few words about security. The project used a red laser with a power of about 200 milliwatts. Of course, it will not be enough to cut a wooden block in one fell swoop, but going blind forever is easier than ever. Never, under any circumstances, aim the laser at your eyes. Remember that even the reflected beam poses a danger to vision!
Let's get started...
Step 1. Gathering the Parts
Most of the details of any Mozgochin can be found in their personal bins of the Motherland. I guess, that aluminum profile, snot and sticks, fasteners, MDF - plates and wires can be found in any home workshop. Most of electronics purchased by the author in ready-made in Internet shops and on E-bay.
Arduino and all We will need:
- Arduino is the heart of the design. As you understand, she will be responsible for controlling stepper motors.
- Stepper motor control boards. The author used Easydrive boards, however, you can use any of their analogues or make boards yourself, incl. and from the Brainkit set (of course, when it goes into circulation).
- 2 (two) unused DVD drives.
- Laser power control circuit.
- Housing for a laser LED (again, you can buy it in the Internet - stores or make it yourself).
- Bolts, nuts, and other necessary little things.
Step 2. An autopsy will show ... Kurochim disassemble DVD drives
Everything we need from the dead DVD drives - these are blocks of stepper motors and one laser diode.
The very first pancake turned out to be a lump when the author discovered that in the devices chosen for preparation, the base was not metal, but plastic, which would greatly complicate the work. I had to choose new applicants among the residents of the pantry ...
The one plastic frame far left... > The disassembly itself is not particularly difficult and is generally the same for DVD drives of any brand.
First, unscrew the 4 screws that hold the bottom plate of the case and remove it. Under it, you will find two boards, which also need to be removed by unscrewing the screws that secure them.
Removed lid... In principle, boards are useless for you (unless you are familiar with smd-wiring), but you can use other drive parts in your projects. For example, a tiny motor is placed under the boards near one of the case walls. direct current worth saving. In the same time, asynchronous motor the main drive of the disk without the use of a special controller is quite difficult to even get to move.
Attention! Be careful with cables - one of them is responsible for controlling the stepper motor and positioning the laser head.
Now unscrew the screws securing the stepper motor module and remove it from the drive housing. In principle, this is exactly what we need for further work. Finally, carefully remove the focusing lenses from the optical module - we will need them later. try do not damage the laser diode, without it our whole construction will turn into banal CNC plotter.
Mechanical contenders
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