How to make a trailer with your own hands will be discussed in this article, and several manufacturing options will be described, depending on the wheel suspension. Many drivers are starting to think about self-production trailer when there is a need to transport some kind of cargo, for example during the construction of a house or cottage. And when searching for a ready-made trailer, many do not find what they need on sale, and if they do, the trailer costs quite a lot.
With self-production, car owners have the opportunity not only to save a significant amount of money, but also to make a trailer to suit their needs and the dimensions of the cargo being transported, as well as the size of their car. In addition, some trailer parts can be made literally from iron trash that is lying around in the garage or at the dacha, or you can find something for pennies at a car disassembly (for example, the same suspension parts and wheels).
Below we will first describe the manufacture of a soft (suspension) version of the trailer using a ready-made automobile beam, then it will be described in full homemade version with suspension, and at the very end, the simplest non-suspension option will be shown, which can be used locally (if cargo should be transported nearby and on a good road).
And of course, each driver will be able to choose the trailer manufacturing option that is more suitable for him in terms of operating conditions, as well as depending on the complexity of manufacturing. There is no point in listing what tools and materials you will need to make a trailer at the beginning, since everything will be described during the process.
Do-it-yourself trailer - an option with a ready-made car beam.
As the name already implies, you will need to find a rear suspension beam from some old car at a car disassembly site. Instead of a beam, you can use a suitable pipe (for example, 80 mm in diameter), this option will be easier, but in this case you will have to attach the wheel hubs to the pipe and attach the springs to the pipe. But with a beam everything is much simpler, since all the fastenings are already there.
However, some springs can also be secured to a regular pipe using hairpin clamps (as shown in the photo with a square adapter for the hub - below in the text). Using a pipe instead of a factory beam will lighten the weight of the suspension, since the beam is still significantly heavier than the pipe. What to choose - a pipe or a finished beam, everyone decides for himself, based on his capabilities and what material is available.
The price of a beam can be a penny if you use a beam not from a foreign car, but from a Soviet car. And if the price of some ancient Moskvich can be in the range of $100 - $150, then it is not difficult to guess that the price of the rear beam from the same Moskvich will be very low.
The advantage of the Moskvich beam and its rear suspension is that the Moskvich suspension uses leaf springs rather than springs, which means the load-carrying capacity of a trailer with springs will allow you to transport even cubes of a boiler for construction in the trailer. In addition, it will always be possible to add a couple of additional springs and thereby further increase the load-carrying capacity of the trailer, in case of emergency.
Well, another advantage of the leaf spring suspension is that you will not need to spend additional time making A-arms for the independent suspension, which is usually used with springs. However, this more complex option will be discussed below.
And so we purchased a beam (rear axle), preferably together with hubs and wheels, and of course with springs attached to the beam (see photo 1).
The axle shafts can be cut off, and the main pair of the gearbox can be removed from the housing along with the bearings - they will no longer be needed, and the weight of the beam will be significantly reduced. Well, the hole for the exit of the cross will need to be closed with a homemade plug. That's it - the base of the trailer is there.
Ear for attaching the spring to the trailer frame.
Next, you should make the ears shown in photo 2 below and in the photo on the left. “Ears” could also be cut off from the car body during disassembly (the factory ear is shown in the photo on the left), but if this was not possible, then they would have to be made from sheet metal, thickness 4 - 6 mm.
These "ears" will be used to attach the springs to the trailer frame once the frame is built.
It is best to make the frame from a profile pipe (a rectangular profile 40x60x4, but a square one 60x60x4 is also possible), since such a pipe is quite rigid, despite the small thickness of the walls, and is not too heavy, unlike a corner one. In addition, it is very convenient to weld the joints of the profile pipe at the corners of the frame.
Of course, before welding the frame, you should measure with a tape measure and mark the desired length with a marker, and then cut pipe blanks for the base, which has the shape of a rectangle.
The two longest pipes ( long sides frame rectangle) will be the length that you want to get the final trailer body (2 meters is quite enough, but if it’s longer, then it’s preferable to do two axle trailer). Well, the width of the other two transverse pipes for the short sides of the frame rectangle, if possible, should not be wider than the dimensions of your car.
Having cut two long pipes and two shorter ones with a grinder, we grind chamfers from the edges of all pipes (for a reliable weld) and lay the pipes on a flat floor, laying out an equilateral rectangle of pipes.
We check all the corners of the rectangle using a square (so that the angle is strictly 90º), then we electrically weld the pipe joints, check the corners again with a square and finally weld the joints.
We use regular welding machine, with an electrode diameter equal to the thickness of the pipe wall, but it is much more convenient and faster to work with someone who has one, and the quality of the seam will be better (and without scale).
Having welded the rectangle, we then prepare (cut) two or three transverse pipes, which we weld in the middle of the rectangle (this will add rigidity and add an additional supporting surface to the floor of the trailer body, and the longer the trailer, the more transverse pipes should be welded).
After this, you can weld the frame to the suspension (through pre-made “ears”) and then weld it from the front to the rectangular frame of the future car trailer An L-shaped jumper, which is indicated by yellow arrows in photo 2 above), onto the top of which the ball joint of the towbar will subsequently be welded. I recommend reading about how to make a towbar for your car.
Well, now all that remains is to make a body with a hinged tailgate and attach it to the trailer frame. There are also several options for making the body. You can weld a frame from an angle (in the shape of a parallelogram) and then weld it to the frame (or bolt it).
Next, the frame from the corner (floor and sides) is sheathed with chipboard, plywood, textolite, metal sheet etc., depending on the cargo being transported.
But you can use not a corner for the body frame, but the same profile pipe(as in photo 3 on the left) only smaller in width (40x40x3 mm, or even 40x20x3 mm).
The floor of the trailer body can be made of metal sheet (as in photo 3, if you plan to transport something heavy), but you can also use chipboard, textolite, thick 20 mm plywood. If we use plywood or chipboard, then before painting they should be coated with natural drying oil to prevent exposure to moisture in the future.
If you plan to transport large cargo, then it is better to immediately increase the sides, as shown in photo 4 on the left. To increase the height of the sides, we again use a profile pipe, but of a smaller transverse size (30x30x3, or 30x20x3).
Next, all that remains is to weld the hitch for the ball joint (they are already on sale in car markets now) to the top of the L-shaped jumper, previously welded to the trailer frame. To the same jumper, in the area of the ball joint, but from below, an “ear” should be welded into which the axis of the folding stop will be inserted.
The support will be needed so that the trailer, after uncoupling it from the car, stands strictly horizontally on the ground. However, the presence of a stop is not necessary; you can do without it.
Then you should sheathe the sides of the trailer with metal sheets, plywood or textolite and then prime and paint the car trailer (photo 5).
It is advisable to hang the tailgate on door canopies (you can make the canopies yourself, as in photo 6) in order to be able to open the tailgate during loading or unloading.
Locks and hinges (door hinges) for the hinged tailgate can be purchased at markets or hardware stores.
Well, don’t forget that on the rear side, or just below, you should definitely attach and connect the brake lights, parking lights and turn signals. All this can be found from some car at a salvage yard for pennies. Attaching and connecting standard (factory) brake lights, turn signals and side lights to the trailer will allow you to easily register your homemade car trailer with the local MREO and then undergo technical inspection without any problems.
And lastly, if the trailer will be used somewhere in the village, then fenders are optional (as in the photo above), since the absence of fenders (mud flaps) increases the trailer's cross-country ability in mud. Well, if the trailer is made for the city, then installing fenders is very desirable, otherwise the trailer and the car will always be dirty. Making flat fenders for trailer wheels is very simple, from thin sheet metal, and therefore this process has not been described.
By the way, if the sides of your trailer are wider than in the photographs above (that is, the sides will overlap the wheels when viewed from above), then you can not make fenders, but simply hang rubber mud flaps under each side, in front and behind each wheel.
A DIY trailer is the second option with independent spring suspension.
This option is more difficult to make than the option described above with dependent leaf spring suspension. Since you will have to buy or make independent A-shaped arms (pendulums), and hang them on the trailer frame through machined lathe bronze bushings. You can use rubber silent blocks instead of bronze bushings, but bushings are still much more reliable and durable.
Zhiguli lever made of sheet steel.
This type of independent trailer suspension allows you to use homemade trailer on any off-road conditions and is more suitable for SUV owners. This option with soft independent suspension is also perfect for a boat trailer.
You can look at a motorcycle disassembly site for ready-made levers from the Ant scooter suspension, or common sheet steel levers from classic Zhiguli cars (shown in the photo).
Or look for levers from the rear suspension of some foreign passenger car (as in the photo on the right - by the way, this photo shows the rear suspension lever of a car along with a fixed factory hub, shock absorber and brake drum (with a brake cable), which means you won’t need to bother with securing the hub on the lever.
In addition, it will be possible to use the brakes on the trailer (by connecting a cable to or to the brakes of the car), if you plan to transport something very heavy). Such a lever will need to be secured to the trailer frame rotated 90º, unlike the front suspension arms of Zhiguli and other cars.
In general, there are a lot of options for making a spring suspension for a trailer, just like there are designs for spring suspensions for passenger cars, there are as many options for making a suspension for a homemade trailer.
You can search and purchase on websites or in car dealerships, ready-made new levers with already welded support cups for the springs, as in the photo on the left. If you can’t find ready-made A-shaped levers, then you’ll have to make the levers yourself, there’s nothing complicated about it.
Springs can be found at disassembly, and their thickness and, accordingly, rigidity depend on what kind of cargo you are going to transport in the future. If you plan to transport a boat or a small light boat, then springs from an Ant scooter, or some kind of ATV, motorcycle, etc. will be quite sufficient.
When making your own A-arms, you will need steel sheet, for reinforcing gussets, a thick-walled round pipe, approximately 25 - 30 mm in diameter, a slightly thicker pipe for bushings for silent blocks (or for bronze bushings).
Homemade A-arm made from straight pipes. All that remains is to weld an adapter to the top of the lever to secure the hub axis.
The design of the levers is clear from the photo above. It shows levers with curved pipes, but if you don’t have one, you can make levers with absolutely straight pipes, in the shape of an even letter A, as in the photo on the right.
When the levers are purchased or ready, all that remains is to attach the wheel hub axles to the ends of the levers and put them on the axles themselves.
In order to secure the hub axles and the hubs themselves with bolts to the end of the A-arm, or to the end of the spring suspension pipe, you will need to cut square (see photo below) or round adapters with holes from thick sheet metal (thickness 18 - 20 mm) (round adapters - flanges can be cut on a lathe from thick sheet metal), into which the hub axle flange will be bolted (as in the photo).
Having cut adapters from thick sheet metal and drilled holes in them (at the same distance as on the flange of the hub axle), all that remains is to weld them to the A-shaped arm, or to the transverse pipe of the spring suspension (the photo on the left shows exactly the option with a pipe for spring suspension).
If the square adapter for the hub axle will be welded not to the spring suspension pipe, but to the end of the A-shaped spring suspension arm, then the adapter during welding should also be reinforced with gussets welded across the adapter (square) (as in the drawing on the right), cut from dozens of sheet metal (thickness 8 - 10 mm).
It is advisable to install shock absorbers inside the spring (or nearby), which will add comfort. However, this makes the design heavier and more complicated. It is much more convenient to mount shock absorbers from some kind of motorcycle, which themselves have a common design (shock absorber and spring as one whole).
By the way, when using shock absorbers from motorcycles (together with springs), it will not be necessary to make support cups for automobile springs from sheet metal and weld them. It is enough to weld ears to the suspension arms for mounting bolts for silent blocks of motorcycle shock absorbers.
Options for selecting parts and manufacturing independent soft suspension for a car trailer with your own hands, there are many and everyone chooses what is more convenient, and sometimes based on what comes to hand at a car or motorcycle disassembly. And of course, it is impossible to describe absolutely all options for manufacturing a suspension for a car trailer in one article. However, the main and most simple options The manufacture of trailer suspensions have been described.
Having made the suspension, all that remains is to weld the trailer frame and sides, then sheathe the floor and sides, as described above, in the first version (with a beam and springs). And then all that remains is to fasten the independent spring suspension to the frame (by the way, it is more convenient to make the suspension removable rather than welded). Of course, the places where the suspension of the right and left wheels are attached to the frame of a homemade car trailer must be absolutely symmetrical, which can be checked using a regular tape measure.
It should also be remembered that when attaching the upper spring and shock absorber support, you need to ensure that the wheels of the empty trailer are suspended with some negative camber. Otherwise, when the trailer is fully loaded, the tire tread will wear unevenly (more on the inside than on the outside).
Well, don’t forget about the feet, dimensions and turn signals (described above).
In conclusion (below), you can watch a video about making a trailer with your own hands, the simplest non-suspension version. And although it shows how to make a trailer with your own hands for a walk-behind tractor (the principle of constructing a car trailer is the same) and does not show how to attach the hubs to the transverse pipe, all this was described above, good luck to everyone.
Small trailers, as a rule, have two types of suspension - spring and rubber-harness.
Despite the fact that from time immemorial all trailers in Russia have been made with springs, we have not observed any positive trends in this area. The matter has not yet gone further than using the suspension from Moskvich-412. Depending on the load capacity, only the number of sheets changes. This suspension is poorly suited for trailers, since it is not designed for “empty”/“loaded” modes. Still, the car is constantly under load. But a trailer either has it (almost full) or doesn’t have it at all. And if a loaded trailer moves along the road normally, but an empty one jumps to the envy of the frogs and thunders like artillery cannonade. Therefore, imported spring packages are used on the right trailers. They only have one sheet working without load, and the rest are connected only after the trailer is filled. In addition, although it is believed that springs dampen vertical vibrations well due to interleaf friction, in fact, shock absorbers must still be installed with them. Hence the rather high cost and relatively expensive maintenance.
Rubber harness suspension and cheaper than spring ones, and requires virtually no maintenance. You just need to monitor the wheel bearings and change the lubricant in them on time. The first maintenance is carried out after running-in (1000 km), subsequent ones - once a year or every 10,000 km. The range of such suspensions is designed for different loads - from 500 kg to several tons, so customers are not in danger of overpaying for “underload”. Externally, the rubber-harness suspension is a pipe of complex cross-section, from which two curved levers protrude. In fact, this is - complex design. Inside the outer pipe there are two “thinner” pipe sections that act as “fingers” for the pendulum arms with wheel hubs. Complete rotation of the inner pipes relative to the outer pipe is prevented by rubber bands located between their walls. At the same time, the “rubber bands” allow the fingers of the levers to rotate slightly inside the pipe, absorbing bumps. The smoothness of a trailer with such a suspension is affected by... the profile of the pipe. If it is square, then there are four harnesses inside, and the suspension is rigid, although energy-intensive. The design with a hexagonal pipe and three harnesses is practically not inferior to it in its ability to withstand the blows of fate, but it works noticeably softer. The rubber-harness suspension also has its disadvantages. So, it is repaired only at trailer manufacturing plants. And a ready-made rubber-harness “bridge” can only be purchased from regional dealers. Therefore, you should not get carried away with fast driving. After all, if the speed is exceeded, the manufacturer is not responsible for the breakdown. Meanwhile, at high speeds, a small hole is enough to damage the suspension.
By the way, the safe speed for our roads is asphalt pavement, according to manufacturers, from 80 to 100 km/h, and according to traffic regulations, you cannot accelerate faster than 70 km/h with a trailer on any road. But on unpaved roads, in order to avoid unplanned repairs, it is better not to exceed 30-40 km/h, and to drive over deep potholes at walking speed.
So which is better - rubber or spring? It is difficult to answer this question unequivocally. Rubber-harness suspension is cheaper to purchase and easier to maintain; a trailer with such a “shock absorber” rides more smoothly, but in case of a breakdown you can get into a steep hit. There are known cases when people had their levers pulled out (albeit at high speeds and on rough roads) near Astrakhan and they had to abandon the trailer with its contents. good people and go to Moscow for spare parts. It's easier with a spring. The fastening did not hold up - there is a welder in almost every village, the spring sheets broke - I found similar ones or even put a suitable one and got to the nearest auto shop. The spring also treats overloads stoically. Well, the body lay on the bridge, well, it turned out to be a peasant cart of the nineteenth century, when depreciation was unheard of. And here inner tube the harness suspension may turn. Especially if it is made poorly. But the rubber-harness suspension has better maneuverability. Indeed, in this case, the frame is the lowest point of the trailer, and the springs are almost always lowered below the frame.
To transport large and bulky cargo over long distances, we are accustomed to using freight vehicles of various tonnage, and a wheelbarrow is also perfect for moving heavy loads inside a farmstead. But what if you need to transport a small cargo over a medium distance. In this case, using a wheelbarrow is inconvenient and requires significant energy expenditure, and hiring a special one freight car and not at all profitable. For such purposes, a trailer is perfect, the tractor for which can be a passenger car, a mini-tractor, or even a walk-behind tractor.
All this is presented in household farming, but, so to speak, in miniature. For example, even a wheelbarrow will do for transportation within the farm.
You can also hire a truck to deliver goods from afar. But when transporting heavy loads over medium distances, the wheelbarrow turns out to be unproductive and the truck unprofitable. Therefore, for my yard, I decided to make a trailer with my own hands, and such that it could be used as a tractor for a walk-behind tractor, and, if necessary, a passenger car.
How to make a reinforced trailer for a car with your own hands
You can make such a light trailer with your own hands. To make it, you can use spare parts and parts that can be found in the garage or at a disassembly site.The frame will be made from two spars and two crossbars (front and rear crossbars). And the platform lattice is made of five crossbars, which are placed between the traverses. Crossbars and traverses relative to the side members must have cantilevered outlets small size. Longitudinal parts must be welded to the ends of the outlets. They will play the role of lining the frames of the sides of the trailer. You can weld the racks onto these parts, and the upper trims to the racks.
Trailer for a passenger car, drawings, dimensions
The spars are made of pipes rectangular section 60x30 mm. All other frame and body frame parts listed above (traverses, cross members, racks, trim) are made of square steel pipe with a cross-section of 25x25 mm.
The front and rear sides of the body are the same. They are made folding (this allows you to transport long loads on a trailer), and therefore their frames, although all made from the same 25x25 mm square pipe, are made separately from the general body frame. The platform grille is covered on top with a 2-mm duralumin sheet, forming the floor of the body, and the outside sides are sheathed with thick tin - 0.8-mm steel sheet. The floor is attached to the grille with M5 bolts with countersunk heads, and the side trim is carefully (dotted) welded to the frames and posts.
The bridge beam also has a tubular rectangular cross-section: it is welded from two identical sections of channels No. 5, inserted into one another. Two wheel axles are pre-welded at the ends of one of them. The gaps between them and the beam channels at the ends were closed with plates made of steel sheet.
The beam is connected to the frame side members by means of two springs used from the old Moskvich-412 car; 13-inch wheels are also taken from the same car. The middles of the springs are pulled to the beam by stepladders, and their ends are attached to the side members: one is put on the axis of the bracket, and the other is put on the axis of the shackle. Shock absorbers in the design of a simplified cargo trailer for passenger car considered unnecessary.
With such a suspension, the distance from the ground to the platform was about 600 mm, which, as operation has shown, is quite acceptable.
The drawbar of the homemade trailer is double-beam. Made from the same rectangular pipe with a cross section of 60x30 mm, the same as the side members. The rear ends of the drawbar beams are docked and welded to the front ends of the side members with a 200 mm overlap. The front ends of the beams converge on the body of the towbar and are also welded to it. I have it homemade, but I never go on the roads with my trailer common use(Yes, this is not necessary). Technical requirements simply prohibit the use of homemade towing devices.
The homemade trailer does not have brakes - I use the tractor brakes to stop or slow down the speed of movement. But I installed alarm devices - rear position lights with turn signals and brake lights - so that my actions would always be clear to those driving along the road.
DIY car trailer video
Hello everyone, dear friends! Today we will talk about trailer springs.
Some models already have them, so the only question that arises is how to strengthen and increase the load-carrying capacity of the structure.
In other cases, passenger car trailers have rubber-harness (torsion bar) suspension options.
Their disadvantages are complex maintenance and repair. You can only change the bearing yourself, but the lever or torsion bar will be replaced either at a service station or at the factory where the trailer was manufactured. The price of such a repair is equal to the cost of a new torsion axle. Therefore, for many, it is preferable to convert the torsion bar to a leaf spring suspension (RS).
Features and Benefits
If you have purchased a new passenger car or a used trailer with a torsion bar suspension, you may want to change the design to a spring one. I won’t name the reasons and motives; everyone has their own.
Spring devices have objective advantages. They appear as:
Even if one sheet fails on the road, there is nothing terrible about it. This type of suspension allows you to get to a service station or a spare parts store, take an additional sheet and change it yourself.
Many people consider RP to be the prerogative of a truck and its trailer. There is some truth here, since it is actively used on:
- tractor trailer PTS 4;
- MAZ;
- Samro;
- Kamaz;
- SZAP.
But no one forbids you to put the RP on a regular single-axle or two-axle passenger car trailer, but only with fewer sheets. By the way, I already...
On trailers, the suspended equipment is located above the bridge. He takes on the main load. The springs serve as a load-bearing damper unit. This allows you to take lateral, vertical and longitudinal loads. The bridge in trailers is conventional design in the form of a pipe, and there are no additional mechanisms.
What to choose
A logical question when choosing springs will be which ones to install on your passenger trailer. This depends on a number of factors. There are also good Volgov springs available on the market, products from Al-Ko and other domestic or foreign manufacturers.
Here I want to make a few clarifications.
Designs may differ in the number of sheets. Reinforced models are made of more spring leaves, but they are stiffer and designed to work under heavy loads. For passenger cars, usually from 3 to 9 units are chosen.
Which one to choose from, decide for yourself.
DIY installation
I suggest you find out how you can install an Al-Ko spring with your own hands. As an example, I use a boat trailer and a floating type of spring design.
Although you can put it on any other trailer:
- MZSA;
- Flint;
- KMZ;
- Moskvichevskie trailers;
- Bee;
- any homemade trailer, etc.
Now about the installation itself. This sample instructions, since the assembly differs depending on the type of selected RP, the trailer itself, the pursued goals of the car owner, etc.
- At the front, the spring is fixed with an eyelet. The thickness of its metal is 5 mm. Fastening is carried out with an M12 bolt;
- The front eye will contain a fluoroplastic spring bushing, which will have to be changed every 50 thousand kilometers;
- When ordering or making lugs, make sure that the distance between the metal of the lug and the spring is 0.25-1 millimeter;
- The tightening torque is not regulated;
- The spring at the rear will be floating, with a metal thickness for the fixation point (a kind of closed eye) of 5 mm. Be sure to periodically apply lubricant, otherwise strong friction will occur and the spring will quickly wear out;
- The spring and beam are connected by two metal plates (top and bottom) each 1 cm thick;
It is equally important to competently operate a vehicle modified with your own hands.
Service
During operation, you need to adhere to some rules for servicing a modernized trailer.
These include:
- The frequency of replacement of fluoroplastic bushings is 50 thousand kilometers. But this is a conditional figure. If the trailer is actively used and driven under heavy loads, replacement may be required earlier. Monitor its condition and change it promptly;
- To prevent the spring from failing at the most crucial moment and breaking, do not forget to check the level of tightening of the bolts at the point of its connection with the beam. They gradually weaken, which leads to accelerated wear and deformation. This should be done at least once every 10 thousand kilometers. Avoid the formation of backlash. The connection should always be tight;
- Lubricant is placed in the eye with the floating part of the spring. Many people use grease, although it is more practical to use graphite lubricant. To do this, use a pry bar to bend the spring plate and add lubricant. Just don't do it with your fingers, otherwise you risk simply losing them. Use a cotton swab or brush;
- The frequency of adding graphite lubricant or grease is not regulated. Check the status of the node. It must always be wet, that is, be in this material. Otherwise, the plates will begin to wear out and break.
Some argue that a floating part for trailer springs is a bad thing. It's better to put a silent block there. But this design has clear advantages. It’s not for nothing that they put it on cargo trailers and cars.
If factory trailers for cars do not suit you in some way and you decide to make a two-axle trailer for a car with your own hands, then this article is for you.
GOST requirements for the parameters of a passenger trailer
If you want the State Traffic Inspectorate to allow you to operate your homemade trailer, you need to make it yourself in accordance with the requirements of GOST 37.001. 220-80 “Trailers for passenger cars.” For those who do not want to read the original source, we will briefly outline the main restrictions imposed by this document on trailers for passenger cars.
List of things needed to make a trailer
If you decide to make a trailer for a car with your own hands, you will need the following parts and materials.
The tools you need are a welding machine, a grinder and an electric drill.
Making a bridge
Fold the channel sections to form a rectangular pipe and tighten them with clamps. Boil the joints. Weld the hub axles to the ends. Attach the resulting bridge beam to the springs using stepladders.
Frame welding
Finishing operations
Cover the sides with sheet iron. Make the floor by attaching the plywood to the crossbars with countersunk screws. Wings cut from sheet iron and attach them to the sides on the brackets. Prime and paint the structure. Attach the lights and run the wiring. Make a towbar insurance from a chain or cable. Only after this can you begin registration.
Want a dual axle? Weld 2 bridge beams, buy 4 short springs and install everything so that the distance between the axles is no more than a meter.
How to register a homemade trailer
A homemade trailer that you can use without fear is necessary. To register you must have:
- Conclusion of a technical examination on the conformity of something made by hand vehicle requirements of GOST001. 220-80. Where such an examination can be done, you need to check with the MREO. Since a conclusion issued by a laboratory not accredited by the State Traffic Safety Inspectorate may be declared invalid.
- Receipts confirming the purchase of parts and materials used to manufacture the vehicle.
- Certificate for the hitch hinge (this is why we advise you to buy it and not do it yourself).
- A copy of your passport.
- A copy of the vehicle's registration certificate.
- An application addressed to the head of the MREO with a request to register a homemade trailer.
- Receipt for payment of state duty.
- 4 photos of homemade products taken from different sides (size 10 by 15 cm).
If you present all these documents, you will be allowed to undergo technical inspection. A positive inspection result will be the basis for registering a self-made vehicle.
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