Knowing the basic principles of electrical work, you can do the wiring in the house yourself and save a sufficient amount. The basis of all subsequent types of construction work, after the construction of walls and roofs, or before major repairs, is the correct installation of electrical wiring. I will try to talk about the most basic principles of electrical installation.
Moreover, it is not difficult to make it with your own hands, but for this you need to have the necessary knowledge and equipment. Equipment can be bought, but we will try to talk about the necessary knowledge in a popular way.
How to make electrical wiring?
1. Wiring diagram.
In most cases, the wiring diagram is compiled by the owner of the construction arbitrarily, in other words, from the bulldozer. And, as a rule, when the masters who came to do this work are standing over his head.
The schema is as follows. Using a piece of chalk or a piece of brick, draw the locations of sockets and switches on the walls. Switches near the doors, and sockets in the corners of the rooms. Are you familiar with this situation?
After the completion of construction work, the sockets are behind the furniture, and the switches are behind the open door, which, you see, is not very convenient.
The quality of the execution of the wiring diagram can be judged by the number of electrical extension cords and tees used in housing after the completion of construction work.
Therefore, the wiring diagram, indicating the location of sockets, switches and junction boxes, must be prepared in advance. You also need to calculate the required load, wire cross-section, and divide consumers into groups.
There must be at least two groups of consumers, that is, two circuits. One is lighting and the other is sockets. It is better if each room in the house has such two circuits separately. In addition, each powerful electrical appliance - an oven, electric stove or boiler must have a separate connection with its own machine.
It is imperative to coordinate this scheme with the location of heating pipes, water pipes and gas in the premises, the future arrangement of furniture and the place of stationary household electrical appliances. It is forbidden to place the socket closer than 50 cm from various pipes, radiators and sinks.
The socket can be located at the height from the floor that suits you best. In most cases, this is 30-40 cm from the floor. But be sure to consider the thickness of the screed and the future floor covering.
If you are in doubt whether to put an outlet here or not, put it on. It is better to have an extra outlet than not have it in the right place. After all, the arrangement of furniture in the apartment can change at any time.
And now about the requirements for switches. The switch should be located at a distance of 90-95 cm from the floor and 15 cm from the doorway, near the door to the room, and always on the side of the door handle.
The location of the switches should be such that it is clear which switch is responsible for which lighting circuit.
In the off position, the upper part of the switch should protrude, and in the on position, the lower part.
Two single-gang switches will always be better than one two-gang. But this requirement does not apply to chandelier switches.
The switchboard should be located in an accessible, dry place, preferably near the front door, at a height of no more than 70 meters from the floor. In no case in the bathroom or pantry, especially not in the wardrobe. Near it there should not be any connections of sanitary communications. All current-carrying parts in it must be closed.
2. Wire selection.
The wire must have conductors with different colors of insulation. Therefore, you need to take the entire wire of one manufacturer with the same color range of cores.
For wiring, it is best to use a solid copper wire, brand VVG - flat in double insulation. Better with the letters NG, which means non-flammable. Be sure to buy wire marked with trusted and well-known manufacturers. When buying, require a quality certificate for it from the seller. Do not take unmarked wire of unknown origin, even if it is much cheaper. Wiring in the house is done for more than one year and you can’t save here.
Do not use aluminum wire. With the same cross section, copper wire can withstand power 1.5 times more than aluminum. And with the current filling of the home with various household appliances, this is very important. In addition, copper wire is more durable, strong, less prone to corrosion than aluminum.
And now attention. For capital wiring, you cannot use a stranded soft wire of the PVS grades (like this - it is double-insulated, round) and ShVVP (like this) - they are mainly used only for extension cords. Such a wire has more resistance, and the electrical conductivity is lower than that of a single-core wire, so it heats up more when loaded. Although it is soft and easy to lay in the manufacture of wiring.
Do not use for electrical wiring in an apartment or house, at the same time wires of different brands and from different metals.
And now attention. Remember one of the basic rules for selecting the wire section. So that the wire does not heat up, one of its squares or 1 mm2 of the wire section must carry a total current of not more than 9 amperes, that is, devices with a power of not more than 2 kilowatts can be connected with such a cable.
Based on this, the following cable with a cross section of one core must be used in combination with the appropriate circuit breakers:
One more thing. If you plan to install sockets with grounding, and you have a ground loop equipped in accordance with all the rules, then you need to use a three-core copper cable for the sockets. Modern rules for organizing electrical wiring require the installation of sockets only with grounding.
But do not install sockets with grounding if the wiring is two-wire, without a ground wire! This can be confusing for the consumer. He may think that the outlet is protected by grounding and bitterly pay for it.
3. Choice of equipment.
When buying sockets and switches, pay attention to their quality and the presence of markings on withstand power. Do not buy very cheap and very expensive. Take the average price category. In my opinion, the difference in price does not cover the difference in quality.
Buy installation boxes (sockets) for them of the appropriate size and quality. All imported sockets and switches are designed for European standard installation boxes with a diameter of 68 mm.
If you plan to make a panel strip from sockets and switches, then the sockets should have special protrusions on the sides to connect them to each other, at a certain distance.
Circuit breakers, and other switchboard equipment, buy only well-known and trusted brands. It's not worth saving money here.
4. Installation of electrical wiring. Wire laying.
In houses with wooden walls, wiring is done externally. If you need to make an internal one, then only in a metal pipe. Sockets, switches and junction boxes in a wooden house can only be installed outdoors. If it is necessary to install internal, then also only in special installation boxes for wooden structures. All wire connections must be located only outside the walls.
In a brick house, wiring can be both internal and external. Near combustible structures made of plastic or wood, a metal cable channel is used to protect the wire. To protect the wire inside the walls, a plastic corrugation is used, and on the outside of the finished walls, a plastic box is used.
For internal wiring, two methods are used. The first, under plaster - from above along the walls, and the second, with cutting grooves - strobes in the wall where the wiring is placed. To avoid damage to the wire during further work, the wire must be completely recessed into the recess of the strobe, without protrusions. To cut the strobes, they use various equipment - from a grinder with a diamond disc to a puncher and a special chasing cutter.
It is especially important that according to existing standards, the wire should be laid only vertically and horizontally, and only with right angles. It can not be laid randomly throughout the room. Vertical sections of wires should not pass closer than 10 cm to the corners of the room, as well as window and door openings.
The wires are not laid in a bundle (they cannot be tied together), but each separately, with a distance of at least 3 mm between them. Because in a bundle, the wires have less ability to dissipate heat and can overheat. Also, there should be no intersection of wires with each other.
The wire from each outlet or switch should run vertically up to the ceiling. Then, at a distance of 10 to 25 cm from the ceiling, depending on how thick the ceiling will be (plaster, stretch, drywall), a junction box is placed and a wire channel is formed horizontally to the floor.
If necessary, a horizontal section can be laid - on the ceiling, under the floor, or horizontally to the floor, but not lower than 10-25 cm from it.
Such norms exist so that after covering the wires with facing materials, you know at any time where they pass. Violation of this rule can lead to damage to the wiring and tragic consequences. If you decide to hang, for example, a picture on a wall or a cornice on a window, then you will know for sure that you cannot drill a hole above the socket or switch to the ceiling, as well as at a distance of about 10-25 cm from the ceiling. And in all other places it can be done safely.
At the connection points (socket, box), be sure to leave a wire with a length of at least 25 cm.
The choice of elements for fastening the wire to the wall today is quite diverse. A single wire is best strengthened with the help of such a herringbone mount. It has various shapes and sizes. It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall, preferably not in mortar, but in brick, put this "herringbone" on the wire, and insert it into the hole. The wire is fixed. For mounting a metal or plastic sleeve with a wire, there are also a variety of fasteners.
When outputting wires to the switchboard, they must be marked, glued with masking tape indicating exactly where this wire goes.
5. Wire connection.
Now attention! An important point.
Wires intended for lighting and sockets with a cross section of 1.5 to 2.5 mm2 can be cut, connected and branched from them.
The wire intended for powering electric stoves, flow heaters, that is, for powering powerful electrical appliances, with a cross section of 4 mm2 and above, cannot be cut, connected and branched. It must be solid, and go directly from the shield to the device. In addition, for each such device you need to put a separate machine in the shield.
This rule must never be broken!
The order of connecting the wires, in each case, is different, depending on which consumers are suitable for each particular box.
But there is one iron rule that should never be broken.
Attention! For a break, a wire with a phase, and not with zero, must be connected to the machine or switch.
The connection of wires must be reliable, safe and durable.
Simple twisting is prohibited by the electrical installation regulations. No matter how well it is made, over time the wires oxidize, the contact weakens, heats up and can lead to a fire. The twisting of copper with aluminum is also prohibited, because this is a guarantee of huge problems in the future.
And now about the methods of connecting wires.
The first way is welding wires with a welding inverter. First, a twist is made, and then its end is connected by welding. But not everyone at home has such a welding machine.
The second way is compression. Special sleeves of a certain size are put on the wires to be connected and, using special press tongs, are pressed into the sleeve. But not everyone, again, has such pliers, and the simplest ones cost about $ 20.
The third way is soldering. The twist of wires can be soldered using a soldering iron with a minimum power of 100 watts, tin and solder. The main thing is not to overheat the wires at the soldering point so that the insulation does not melt. This method is more accessible at home, with certain skills, of course.
After all these methods, the wire connection must be insulated with heat shrink or electrical tape.
All of the listed types of connections are reliable, but they are non-separable, time-consuming, and already outdated. Among other things, their implementation requires special equipment, and installers charge more for such connections.
So here I want to say a very important remark.
Namely, why is it not necessary to use these wire connections in a house or apartment: welding, crimping and soldering?
Because, any of the modern self-clamping terminal blocks manufactured by WAGO, and not Chinese fakes, can easily withstand the current that is used in a residential area. In addition, no additional tools and insulation are required for such a connection. Everyone can connect the wires using a terminal block with their own hands. And if necessary, you can easily change the circuit, because the connection with the help of terminal blocks is collapsible.
Again I ask for your attention. It is very important. In modern electrical wiring, a cable with a cross section of up to 2.5 mm2 must be connected only with terminal clamps, and machines no higher than 16 amperes should be used for them.
And the cable from 4.0 mm2 and above, as you remember, I hope, cannot be connected at all, it must be led intact from the switchboard to the device.
6. Verification of the completed electrical wiring.
Be sure after the wiring, you need to once again check the correct connection and connection of all wires visually. You can check them with the device. For such a check, there are special devices for sale (and this is not a tester), but they are not cheap. Therefore, it makes no sense to buy such a device for the home; it is easier to do an independent check by spending an extra hour or two. If errors are found, and this happens, it is necessary, of course, to correct them.
7. Assembly and installation of the switchboard.
The main thing that should be in the shield is a meter and circuit breakers - one common and several for consumer groups. All other equipment, RCD, difavtomat, voltage relay and more, it is advisable to install in order to protect the life of the household and the integrity of the connected electrical appliances.
The main machine is needed in order to de-energize the entire apartment with one movement of the hand. A difavtomat is needed to do the same action automatically.
The residual current device of the RCD is triggered if a differential leakage current appears in the network to which it is connected, when the insulation is damaged, it breaks through the heating element or other element onto the housing. When a person touches damaged wires or non-insulated parts of the equipment, the RCD will instantly turn off the power to the network.
Remember that the RCD does not protect the network from overload and short circuit. That is why the RCD is always connected in series with the machine. These two devices work in pairs, so to speak: one protects against current leakage, the other from overloads and short circuits. If you turn on the RCD without a machine and connect the phase and zero, having received a short circuit, then the RCD will not work. And the wiring, if there are no other protection devices, will burn out along with the RCD.
The differential machine is a unique device that combines a circuit breaker and an RCD. That is, the differential machine is able to protect your wiring from short circuits and overloads, as well as from the occurrence of current leaks.
The voltage relay or UZM (multifunctional protection device) turns off the power supply when it goes out of the range you set. This relay is installed to protect electrical appliances connected to the network from power surges in this network.
The circuit breaker must be accurately sized for the load. Here you need to apply the rule that it is better to put an automatic machine of less power than a larger one. In order for the machine to work earlier and turn off the power, than the wire overheats, a short circuit occurs and the wiring catches fire.
Remember that the machine does not protect the electrical appliance connected to it, but only the wire that feeds it from overheating.
About what kind of machine you need to protect the cable with what section, I already spoke above.
The main mistake here is that people are trying to install machines with more power, which is why wiring burns out and apartments burn out.
The wire does not heat up if a device of the appropriate power is connected to it. Therefore, there is no need to set the machine in terms of power higher than the calculated one.
The machines are of various categories. I won't explain the differences to you.
You only need to remember the following. For all sockets in the apartment, you need to use machines only with the English letter "B".
For lighting, you can use automatic machines of category B and category C.
And for all other power devices, you can use category C machines.
Attention! In no case should category D machines be installed in the apartment; they are designed for powerful machine tools and electric motors with high starting currents.
8. Installation of socket boxes.
A place for an installation box in a brick or concrete wall can be drilled using a puncher with a special nozzle - a crown with a diameter of 70-75 mm. The required cable is inserted into the socket.
Socket boxes are installed after carrying out all the necessary finishing work with the walls. That is, we drill a hole for the socket on a bare, untreated wall, and install the socket on the wall with a complete and finished finish.
This process is simple. The hole for the socket, in a brick or concrete wall, is filled with a quick-hardening mortar, it can be a mortar of building gypsum.
Then the socket or switch box must be inserted into the hole, aligned to the wall surface and horizontally with a level so that the socket does not protrude from the wall and is not skewed to one side.
In drywall, a hole for the socket is cut out with a special cutter with a diameter of 68 mm and fixed with side clamps.
9. Installation of sockets and switches.
There are no special tricks here. It is necessary to remove the top cover of the socket or the switch keys. Connect the wires to the terminals, after cutting them to a length of no more than 10 cm. Lay the wires on the bottom of the socket. Insert the device into the socket until it stops. Fasten the device to the socket with screws and tighten the bolts in the niches on the sides to the stop, which press the special fastening tabs to the socket. Then reinstall the socket cover or switch keys.
After installing sockets, switches and a shield, we apply voltage to the wiring and check the correct operation of all sockets, switches and machines.
10. And the last.
You can do the wiring in the house yourself with your own hands, especially for a person who knows what zero is and what a phase is. But there are many different nuances here that even the so-called experts in this matter incorrectly perform. For example, when building a dacha, I only got to a normal electrician on the fourth attempt. Electrical installation is a very important section of work to trust it to non-professionals.
If you decide to hire an electrician, ask him how he plans to carry out the work and what tool he has for this. Real electricians have a whole set of special tools to carry out all types of electrical wiring work. And if electricians come to you who have one hammer for two and that one is borrowed from a neighbor, then drive them in the neck.
Ask the master where he has already done the wiring and ask the owners about the results. By the way he makes an order for consumables, you can understand his qualifications and draw conclusions. After starting the editing, carefully follow its work, based on the recommendations that I told you about in this video.
And if you want to do the wiring yourself, follow these rules too.
What is not clear, ask in the comments, and you will succeed. Remember that successful wiring depends on care, attention and following the instructions.
Choose the right wires, the power of the machines and try to do high-quality wiring with your own hands.
Video. How to make electrical wiring in the house?
Independent laying of new electrical wiring requires a competent approach and accuracy. Before starting direct installation, a wiring diagram is drawn. In a private house, this is especially true, since laying errors can lead to a fire hazard. The drawn power supply scheme will help you quickly and accurately repair future damage or upgrade your home network.
Requirements for wiring in a private house
Wiring is carried out in the form of a combination of wires and cables, as well as their fasteners and related protective elements. It can be installed both open and closed. Open type wiring is laid on the surface of walls, ceilings or floors using: cables, rollers, sleeves. Concealed wiring is laid in the middle of various elements of the house: under the floor, in walls, suspended ceilings or in other monolithic objects.
Do-it-yourself wiring installation in a private house is not difficult if there is a clear circuit diagram. At the same time, all work is much faster and the likelihood of errors is less. Before you start planning and drawing up a diagram, you need to know what the installation requirements are.
The list of requirements is established by special PES rules (rules for the operation of electrical installations), which are mandatory. Here is the main list:
Stages of electrical wiring
Compliance with all requirements will ensure the correctness of the wiring in the house with your own hands. A step-by-step scheme for drawing up a plan can be represented in the form of such operations:
- choice of material and its quantity;
- drawing of the installation scheme;
- laying and installation of all parts of the electrical wiring;
- performance check.
It is easy to complete the steps on your own. But before you properly conduct the wiring in the house, you will need to complete the preparatory stage. It includes determining the places where the connection points for electrical appliances and lamps will be located, their number.
Choice of materials and installation method
The power supply company supplies electricity through laid lines using poles and supports or through a power cable buried in the ground. From the common line there is a branch of the cable to the electrical panel, located on the territory of private ownership. Branching is carried out with a two-wire or three-wire wire. Accordingly, a two-phase or three-phase line is used. More often, a cable containing a phase and zero is diverted. An electric meter is installed at the end of this line. It is important to know that the line to the meter is wholly owned by the power supply company, and it is forbidden to perform any operations with it.
Further laying of the line is already carried out by the owner of the household himself or by an electrician. The line itself can be laid open or hidden..
Open type wiring is carried out on the surface in a visible form, which is both a disadvantage and an advantage. The advantage is the simplicity of laying, free access to any part of the electrical network, and the disadvantage is poor protection against mechanical damage. The cable, laid on the surface, is attached through insulators that resemble a fungus. In this case, the design of sockets, switches, junction boxes is used overhead. Plastic boxes are used to protect against damage and ensure electrical safety. They form a channel into which the cable is laid.
Hidden wiring is located in the made, and after laying the cable plastered, strobes. Hidden in floor screed or behind false panels. Electrical fittings are used internally. The wire itself, if not laid in a concrete or brick wall, is laid in a metal hose. The disadvantage is that if the wire is damaged, it will have to be removed from monolithic structures. It is possible to use a combined method, making some areas hidden, while others are external. Mandatory parts of the electrical wiring in the house will be:
- Switch box.
- Circuit breaker.
- Electrical connection point.
- Switch.
- Junction box.
- Cable.
The electrical panel is installed in such a size that all the input elements fit into it. The circuit breaker is designed to quickly break the wire in the event of an emergency on the line. Its main characteristic is the value of the rated current. How many amperes the machine will need in the house is calculated by summing up the power of the entire planned load, which can be included simultaneously in the circuit.
When choosing a machine, not only the power of the connected devices is taken into account, but also the quality, as well as the cross-section of the laid electrical wiring. A mismatch in the cross-section of the cable that will be used for distributing electricity can lead to its overheating, resulting in a short circuit and a fire.
The cross section of the wire is characterized by the amount of current that it passes through itself without deteriorating its electrical properties. For example, a copper wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm / 2 can withstand a continuous current load of 19 amperes. Therefore, it is impossible to use an automatic machine for 20 A with such a cross section, it will be needed for 16A.
The junction box looks like a plastic container with a lid, on the sides of which there are holes for cable entry. Its main characteristic is the size and quality of the material of its manufacture. Switches and sockets are designed for a current not exceeding the value of the devices connected to them.
Schema building
After selecting the materials and the location of the connection points for electrical appliances, a drawing of the electrical circuit is carried out. It is best to use a ready-made house plan, which depicts all the elements involved in building an electrical network.
To simplify the wiring, consumers are divided into groups, this will also help distribute the load and save materials. If a private house has many rooms, then the socket circuits and lighting are shown separately in the drawing. The diagram indicates the following:
The cable leaving the meter comes out and is switched on the distribution panel. A series of automatic protection is installed in it, consisting of an introductory machine and single-pole switches. Perfectly, each electrical point is equipped with its own machine, but this is not unprofitable in terms of costs. Therefore, groups are created, each of which has its own fuse.
In the middle of the group, the disconnection occurs in the following way. The power wire coming out of the machine is branched in the distribution box to each electrical point. Such a point is a place to which an electrical device is switched. In this case, a wire with two or three cores is connected to the outlet, and it is connected in parallel. The switch is installed in series in the break of the power wire.
A wire with three cores implies grounding, made on one of the three wires. The presence of grounding is important because there is a potential difference on the metal cases of electrical appliances, for example, on a refrigerator, kettle, heating boiler, etc. This voltage can be life-threatening in the event of an insulation breakdown. Grounding done eliminates this problem. For this purpose, a grounding contact is provided in the socket. In fact, this is a continuous connection of the metal parts of electrical appliances with the ground.
Grounding is carried out using a contour in the form of a triangle, welded from thick metal with equal sides. The ground loop is placed at a distance of no more than 1 meter from the foundation of the house. A large-section wire is screwed to the triangle with a bolt, the other end of which is connected to the grounding bar in the shield.
Cable laying and installation of elements
After drawing up the scheme and purchasing materials, installation takes place. The main thing is to observe safety precautions and follow the outlined scheme exactly. First, lines are drawn along the surfaces of walls and ceilings corresponding to the laying of the wire. Then the locations of the electrical accessories are marked. With hidden wiring, the following is performed: gating, preparation of recesses for sockets, switches, places for a shield. For outdoor versions, cable holders are attached at an equal distance and holes are made for fastening overhead fittings.
After laying and fixing the cable, a shield is assembled. To do this, an introductory machine is installed on the din rail and automatic switches are installed on each group of lines. If necessary, an RCD is added or a differential machine is placed instead of the introductory one. This is a type of circuit breaker that simultaneously combines the functions of an automatic circuit breaker and an RCD. The shield also has a ground bar and a zero bar.
After installing all the elements in the shield, the wires are connected. It is generally accepted to use brown for the phase wire, blue for zero and yellow-white for ground. All connections are made using device clamps. In the junction box, the wires are connected by twisting with further insulation or using clamps, in sockets and switches according to their design.
Health check
After the wiring is done in the house with your own hands or with the help of a specialist, it must be checked. To do this, using a multimeter, in the dialing mode, they check the integrity of the wiring, the absence of a short circuit in sockets and switches, and the performance of the machines.
Only after a successful check is the introductory machine connected to the terminals of the meter to supply electricity to the system. If possible, then the machine in front of the meter must be turned off when connected. It should be remembered that the voltage of 220 volts is life-threatening and working with it requires permission and knowledge of protection, so at the final stage it is better to invite an electrician.
Do you want to change the wiring in the apartment with your own hands? - It's possible! To do this, it is not necessary to have a valid electrician's permit, or an electrician's diploma. It is enough to be an electrician at heart, and have a little technical education and understanding of what you are dealing with. If you do not have enough practical experience, but you really want to change the wiring yourself, this article is for you.
Calculations and scheme
One-line diagram according to GOST
First you need to draw wiring diagram for your apartment. To do this, you do not need to be an engineer, because you do not need an intricate linear diagram according to GOST. It is enough to draw a schematic drawing "by hand". The wiring diagram is needed in order to correctly scatter the cable around the apartment, and calculate its approximate number, as well as determine the load on each future line.
wiring diagram
Draw where you will have sockets and switches. At the same time, consider what household electrical appliances you will include in them, how many and what kind of lamps you will use.
It is not recommended to hang more than 8-10 sockets on one line. Since all sockets in the line are through, then with each subsequent socket there is a possibility of weakening the contact. Especially do not make many sockets on one loaded line, for example, in the kitchen, it is better not to save money and extend two lines to the kitchen.
Determine the required number of lines and the expected load on them. It is better to divide the lines into zones, for example: kitchen sockets, corridor sockets, bathroom sockets, room 1 sockets, lighting, etc.
Cable selection
In order for electrical appliances to work without overloading the network, the cable of each line must be of the appropriate section. And if, on the same line (for example, to the kitchen), there are several consumers (and it will be), then it is necessary to calculate their total power and leave margin of "strength" of the cable, that is, select the desired cross section (wire thickness). The power of all household appliances is always indicated by the manufacturer. For example: an incandescent lamp is 40W, and a hob is 6000W, etc.
In order not to bother with the calculations, follow one simple rule. - For socket lines, use a copper cable with a cross section of 2.5 sq. mm., For all lighting 1.5 sq. mm, and for the hob or instantaneous water heater 4 sq. mm - and everything will be fine with you!
Each device (consumer) has its own declared maximum power, measured in watts.
Simplified power formula
The cable must be three-core (phase, zero, ground). Zero is always blue, ground is yellow or yellow-green, phase is any other color. If you change the wiring, do not skimp on the material - always take a cable with a third core (grounded), because all modern devices have an additional protective terminal, and protective automation works only using grounding .
To replace the wiring, it is best to use the VVG-ng cable. Of course, you can use NYM or PVS, but the advantages of the VVG cable over others are obvious. Firstly, VVG does not need to be crimped with sleeves (soft must be crimped). And secondly, it is smaller and flat, which allows you to make smaller strobes, and it is possible to push the cable into a thin slot (3mm for a three-core cable with a cross section of 1.5 mm)
Uncrimped wire with sleeve
Always take only cable according to GOST! For example, an excellent cable is Gost's VVG ng. This is a very important point in preparing for the wiring replacement! You can save on automation or sockets (you can always change them), but do not save on cable - take a good one.
markup
Determine at what height the sockets and switches will be located, the easiest way is to measure the lines of sockets and switches from the ceiling, because the floors in apartments are most often crooked. For example, if the height from floor to ceiling after repair is 250 cm, and you want to raise the sockets by 30 cm, measure 220 cm from the ceiling. If there are several sockets and switches in one group, draw a horizontal line along the level and put a mark every 7 cm (socket size 71mm), the same applies to vertical groups.
For lovers of standards, so that it is “like everyone else” or “how they do it” - remember they don't exist! There are requirements for kindergartens, kindergartens and schools where sockets and switches are installed at a height not less than 160 cm.. Everything else, especially at home, you can do as you like. For example, some make sockets in window slopes or even in the floor.
Preparing for chipping
Typically, wiring in apartments is carried out either on the floor or on the ceiling. There are other options, such as cable routing under baseboards or boxes.
Lighting lines, in any case, are laid behind a stretch or suspended ceiling, if they are not planned to be done, then the ceiling is to be shredded. And since, a monolith of ceilings shuffling is strictly prohibited, you need to apply a layer of plaster on the ceiling, which will allow you to hide the cable without damaging the monolith. We highly do not recommend chasing the ceiling on our own, since it is necessary to know the technology of proper chasing so that later the whole house does not collapse someday.
In cases where ceiling plastering is not planned, experienced craftsmen find voids in the monolith slab with the old cable, and a new one is pulled in its place.
With a crown for concrete at 70mm or 68mm (nozzle on a puncher), holes for socket boxes are drilled. With a wall chaser or grinder, strobes are cut for laying the cable. The grooves in the walls must be strictly vertical rather than horizontal or diagonal. The lines from the sockets to the shield are laid in the floor screed or along the ceiling.
If the ceilings are not wooden, then according to the PUE (electrician's bible), cable laying without corrugations is allowed! There is also no need for a corrugated floor screed, the most important thing is a high-quality cable with good insulation according to GOST! Save on corrugation, if you do not have drywall and wood (or other flammable materials) - then corrugation is not needed!
Noisy works
When you start pounding walls, don't forget about the law. You can make noise with a perforator in apartment buildings only at a strictly defined time, each region of the Russian Federation has its own rules. For example, in Dagestan it is necessary to obtain the permission of the elder, in Moscow they simply call the police without talking, and in Taganrog they begin to hammer in response. It is better to start work on weekdays from 9 to 19, with a break for lunch from 13 to 15.
Shtroblenie
Before you start chasing, it is highly desirable that the walls and ceilings are plastered with a leveling layer of plaster. Firstly, you will not have any further problems with the final installation of sockets, since all socket boxes will be flush with the wall, and not recessed into it (which happens when they are installed before the walls are plastered). And secondly, gating will occur much faster, since in some places it will not be necessary to saw a monolith.
Check in advance the places where you will ditch, so as not to touch the communications - old wiring and plumbing pipes. If you can't determine where the old wiring goes, call an electrician, or just disable it in the shield (if you are going to change it all). For the convenience of work, make yourself a temporary carrying (extension cord).
The hole for the sockets is grooved to the full depth of the crown. To quickly drill a hole in concrete, mark a circle with a crown, after which, with any drill, no less than the depth of the crown, drill the maximum possible number of holes around the circumference. After that, chasing with a crown will go much faster, you can say - it will go like clockwork. When hitting the rebar, it is best to use another crown, in extreme cases, you can knock it down with a spatula. It is better to use a puncher more help (do not forget about the neighbors and the police).
Working with a wall chaser or grinder
Strobe for cable laying, go from the socket to the floor or ceiling. You need to lower the strobe down so that the cable lies quietly in the screed and does not stick out in the corner, so you need to know the thickness of the future screed, the same with ceilings. It is best to have a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner for these cases, but in extreme cases you can get by with a grinder, with a diamond blade for stone. In the case of an angle grinder, take care of your health, put on a respirator and goggles. Close all windows and doors to isolate dust from entering adjacent rooms.
Cabling
It is not difficult to lay the cable on the floor, it is enough to grab it to the floor in any way so that it does not pop up when the screed is made. Usually the cable is laid along the walls (at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall), so that later you know exactly where the cable goes.
It is worth noting that it is better not to lay the cable under the doorways! For cable laying on the floor, it is better to make through holes between rooms. Otherwise, there is a chance of damaging the cable when installing interior thresholds.
Laying the cable in the strobe is also not particularly difficult. You can fix the cable in the strobe using dowel clamps or ordinary alabaster (gypsum plaster). Alabaster hardens quickly, so it is also convenient to use it for mounting socket boxes. But before smearing them with strobes, it is necessary to remove dust from them and moisten them with water.
If the cable is securely fixed in the strobe and does not stick out anywhere, the strobes can be covered with ordinary plaster mix, this will save a lot of time.
About junction boxes
Soldering (or junction boxes) are necessary for switching (connecting) wires in them and branching lines, for example, for a switch.
Today, professional electricians will tell you that it is not necessary to install junction boxes in modern apartments! They can play a cruel joke with your wiring. In the event of a short circuit, tearing off, neighbors flooded, etc., you will need access to this very junction box. It is easy to refuse junction boxes - do all the switching in the sockets! For this you need DEEP socket boxes, in which all switching for lighting will take place. Usually, deep socket boxes are made for light switches, but if switching is necessary to branch the outlet lines, then deep socket boxes are also installed under the sockets.
Electrical panel installation
The most budget option is to install all the circuit breakers in the stairwell in a common shield, where your old circuit breakers and counter are already standing. To do this, it is necessary to bring all the cables to the access shield. If you want a shield in your apartment, then you need to choose a suitable place for it.
Built-in or overhead shield, it's up to you. The built-in one looks more aesthetic, the invoice is easier to mount. All lines from the apartment go to the shield, and already one thick cable goes from it to the access shield, the cross section of such a cable must be at least 6 mm, that is, a three-core cable, for example, VVG 3 * 6.
Installation of circuit breakers
Each individual line is equipped with its own circuit breaker, with a rating depending on the cable section. According to the rules, it is impossible to insert more than two lines into one machine, if you are trying to power more than three lines from one machine, you must install a special branching bus.
Today, there are many ways to protect electrical wiring, even at the household level. The most necessary condition is the installation of overload and short-circuit protection circuit breakers (ordinary single-pole circuit breakers). It is also recommended to install an additional residual current device - RCD (protection against current leakage).
RCDs are best installed on the line of high-risk areas: wet rooms, children's rooms. It is not necessary to install one common RCD for the entire apartment! One common RCD is installed only with the goal of saving. The consequences of such savings are a complex diagnosis of a malfunction in case of a leak, + the whole apartment is left without light when it is triggered. On some lines, for example, on lighting or street lines, RCDs are not installed.
Installing additional types of protection is already a luxury: a thermal relay (protection against cable heating), lightning protection, a stabilizer or protection against voltage surges (saves from 380V), a fire alarm, etc.
Shield Assembly
One of the most crucial moments is the assembly of the shield. If you use a soft cable, then before inserting the wire into the machine, it must be crimped (to increase the contact area). Only phase wires are inserted into single-module machines (phase marking L - can be of any color except blue and yellow), all the rest (zero N blue, PEN earth yellow-green) are inserted into their tires. When using RCDs or difavtomatov (automatic and RCD "in one bottle"), the neutral wire is inserted into its groove (marking N - neutral, blue. The common phase connects all the machines to each other, for this, instead of jumpers from wires, it is better and more reliable to use special combs.
For all connections in the shield, it is very important to use wires of the appropriate section, that is, it is best to separate the phases and zeros by automatic machines with a cable with a section of 4 sq. mm or 6 sq. mm. Also, after tightening all the cables and combs in the machines, it is necessary to check the reliability of their clamping. Since it often happens that the wire simply does not fall into the clamp, or it is bad to hold on to it.
Final installation. Sockets and switches
Sockets and switches are installed last, after a clean finish (painting or wallpapering). The most important rule of good installation is good contact!
Most of the outlets in your apartment are walk-through, that is, a cable goes through them with a loop to each subsequent outlet. In order to avoid problems with wiring in the future, firstly, do not buy cheap sockets (for example, IEK), they have a very bad (to put it mildly) clamp, and subsequently such sockets and switches can simply burn out. And secondly, stretch all the connections a second time! Check each pinched or twisted wire by tugging on it. If the wire jumped out of the clamp, then you clamped it badly or the clamp turned out to be defective.
Among professionals, it is believed that LeGrande products and Schneider have the best clamps in sockets.
To make the frames fit evenly and tightly, install a group of sockets or switches in level, butt-to-butt, and screw them to the sockets with small self-tapping screws from two opposite sides close to the wall. Then screw the spacers inside the outlet (if any). It is important not to touch the wires inside the socket with spacers or self-tapping screws!
Track the position of the cable in the socket so that it does not fall on the spacers. Also, do not use too long self-tapping screws, which can touch the wires.
At each stage of the repair, it is necessary to check the lines for operability, since after the final finishing it will be impossible to fix anything without damaging the finish.
With electrical work in the private sector in our country, it is more bad than good. For most unfortunate electricians, protecting a person from electric shock, and property from a fire, unfortunately, does not mean anything. At the same time, one gets the impression that ordinary users skipped physics lessons at school and do not understand at all what an electric current is. But they very well believe in marketing tricks and happily pounce on "branded" automation, rejecting any other.
I propose to step by step understand all the issues of power supply of a private country house using the example of a single-phase input. Also, this guide can be applied to use in the apartment. I’ll note right away that my particular decision of certain nodes is the optimal balance between functionality and price, but without sacrificing security!
I hope there is no need to retell the full course of physics and explain what an alternating electric current is. We also omit the moments when this electric current appeared at the power plant and got into the power line through a step-up transformer. I will only note the important nuance that the entire power supply system in Russia is three-phase. The single-phase 220 volt voltage at your outlet is just the phase voltage on one of the three phases. And the line voltage will be 380 volts. This circumstance should be taken into account in view of such a phenomenon as “phase imbalance”, which, nevertheless, is relevant only with old wiring that is not designed for modern loads.
2. So, a step-down transformer in SNT. A high voltage of 10 kV comes through three wires. Then 4 wires (3 phase and one neutral conductor) diverge along the SNT. In the photo you see a modern transformer and taps in the form of SIP wire. At the moment, the air lines in our SNT are being upgraded.
3. With a single-phase input, two conductors are connected to each consumer: phase and zero. In the photo you can see the old aluminum wires on the pole closest to the house. The outlet to the house has already been made using the SIP wire. Particular attention to the fact that all overhead line supports must have a re-grounding of the neutral conductor (upper right photo). This is necessary in order to exclude emergency situations, such as "break zero". At the same time, you should pay special attention to your own grounding in the absence of repeated groundings on intermediate supports, otherwise, in an emergency, your own grounding may be the only one for the entire village.
4. Get to the point. The last section of the overhead line from the nearest pole to the building is stretched with a SIP wire, in our case 2x16. Stands for self-supporting insulated wire, it is aluminum with a cross section of 16 mm². For ease of installation and laying at the place of anchoring with the help of special clamps (SIP wire implies the installation of a live line, on special clamps the nut is not energized, and also has a shear thread that guarantees the necessary tightening force) goes into VVG with a cross section of at least 10 mm² . It is in this form that two wires enter the input shield. In the shield we have an introductory two-pole circuit breaker and a surge arrester (required on the final support for air input), which will protect the network when lightning strikes the phase conductor of the overhead line. It is connected in front of the machine to the phase conductor. Here, in the shield, the ground connection is made strictly BEFORE the introductory machine. We are considering the TN-C-S grounding scheme, since the TT system is still designed for mobile buildings, not permanent buildings, and it has its own characteristics in terms of safety requirements. There are no shortcomings in the TN-C-S system with proper installation. Even if you go deep into this topic, if you make a CT, then this will only be your final section, while the entire overhead line from the transformer will be TN-C.
5. Mandatory grounding. Three corners with a wall of 50 mm (steel thickness 5 mm), 2 meters long, are driven into the ground with a sledgehammer and welded together in the form of a triangle. A steel strip 40 mm wide goes up to the wall of the house. The last meter to the shield is made using a copper conductor with a cross section of at least 16 mm². It is absolutely impossible to underestimate the cross section, in the event of any accident on the line, your grounding may become the only one for the entire line / street / quarter. Switching in the shield is as follows. The combined PEN (Protected Earth + Neutral) conductor from the overhead line is divided on two buses into N and PE. After that, the introductory machine is switched, next to it is a surge arrester. From the machine, the power line goes to the electric meter. A three-core copper wire with a cross section of each core of 6 mm² goes directly into the house. The phase and neutral conductors come from the meter, grounding from the corresponding bus.
6. Let's move on to the internal wiring of the house. I repeat that when designing the electrical network, the principle of reasonable sufficiency was used. Of course, it was possible to make 2 times more sockets and increase the number of power lines by the same amount, but I think that there is absolutely no need for this. Explanations for the diagram: red squares - junction boxes, yellow circles - lamps. Blue indicates wiring in the screed, red - in the walls. Everywhere in the house only LED lighting is used (the total consumption of all lamps turned on at the same time does not even reach 300 watts). The lighting is powered from a power line to a specific room, I see no practical need for separation, and besides, this significantly increases the amount of installation work. The diagram shows all consumers existing in the house. If you have questions - ask.
7. So let's get started. This is a temporary electrician for the period of construction work. We turn to the laying of power lines. There are 10 of them in total. Some of them will go along the walls, some in the floor in the corrugation.
8. Let's start with floor lines of force. We use a NYM cable with a cross section of 3x2.5 mm² in the corrugation (the gray corrugation does not burn at all, the black corrugation does not support combustion and has UV protection - it doesn’t really matter what to use in the screed, it’s not so easy to find a strong gray one, but I would trample on a soft one while preparatory work). Frequently asked question - why not VVG? In terms of performance, they are completely identical, but NYM has the advantage of being triple insulated while having the disadvantage of not being UV resistant. Therefore, for open wiring, VVG is preferable. Otherwise, NYM is more convenient, including because of its round shape (round VVG also exists, but it is extremely difficult to find it in stock). Round NYM is pulled into a corrugation with a diameter of 16 mm in an elementary way, which is extremely convenient. As a keepsake, it is worth documenting the routes for laying lines along the floor, although nowhere except for door thresholds there is even a theoretical probability that you will need to drive something into the concrete floor screed.
9. Corner of the kitchen area. Aerated concrete is simply an excellent material for processing - you can ditch the walls with even an ordinary screwdriver. So, we drill holes for mounting and junction boxes. The wire in the walls of non-combustible bases is laid in the form in which it is. No corrugations are required. All eyes on the tracks. Lines of force are laid only at right angles. The main line runs along the floor at a height of 20-30 cm, then it rises strictly VERTICALLY to the sockets and switches. Diagonal laying is prohibited and is dangerous by the risk of getting into the wire, for example, when driving a nail into the wall (and you know for sure that you cannot drive nails exactly under sockets and above switches). The cable is attached to the wall using plastic round brackets (two holes are drilled, a bracket is inserted).
10. The floor screed is filled. The question at what stage to lay the cable on the wall is solely from your personal preferences. Someone first plasters the walls, then makes a strobe, lays a cable and closes the strobe back. I prefer to do the wiring before plastering the walls. This method may seem inconvenient. increased attention will be required during plastering to points with mounting boxes (you need to plug them with something, and then pick them up). Pay attention to the left corner - all switching on the feed-through lines of sockets is made not in socket boxes, but in separate junction boxes.
11. I will repeat with the type of wires. NYM is the ideal and versatile cable. The cross section is selected according to the load. Usually a 3x2.5 mm² cable is used. For powerful consumers, such as an electric hob, a wire with a core cross section of 4 mm² may be required. For lighting lines, where in my case LEDs are used (maximum power consumption in the largest room is 80 watts), I use a PUNP cable 2x1.5 mm² (grounding in the lighting network is not needed, there is nowhere to connect it). In general, the regulations prohibit the use of PUNP due to the fact that the technical conditions allow to underestimate the cross section of the cores up to 30% compared to the standards, and with wholesale savings everywhere and in everything, this can cause a fire due to exceeding the permissible load. In my case, my maximum load is more than 30 times less than what a 1.5 mm² cable can safely pass. Therefore, a larger cross section is not required, and this cable is most convenient for mounting a lighting line. Yes, keep in mind that for fixed wiring, only rigid cable with a solid core is used. Socket boxes and junction boxes are mounted into the wall on building gypsum (alabaster), as the fastest drying solution.
12. Now directly the stage of assembly and installation of power lines. You will need a few handy tools. The topmost one is used for crimping the lugs of multi-core cables, for example PV3 (currently being replaced by PuGV), which are used in the assembly of the electrical panel. The middle tool is useful for quickly stripping the NYM cable sheath - pinch, turn, pull. Below is a simple tool for stripping the end veins, not very convenient, but more than enough for one-time work.
13. It is also necessary to have such a thing as an indicator screwdriver. There are two varieties of them. The original device with a neon light bulb without a power source is able to determine only the phase voltage. The same simple Chinese device with a power source has more advanced functionality and allows you to determine not only the phase (important! To determine the phase, do not touch the screwdriver cap with your fingers), but also the integrity of the line, as well as the location of the conductor break. On the right is the initial blank for the electrical panel. When switching, it is important to distribute everything in such a way that it is intuitively clear where everything is.
14. I’ll immediately note a nuance that the “specialists” will definitely get to the bottom of - the neutral conductor should be blue, and I have it black, since in our tree called Moscow there is never anything available at the moment when I need it (since the shield obviously single-phase, there is no obvious catastrophe and mistake to confuse zero with the second phase). For switching in an electrical panel, I use a PV3 wire (you can take a modern PuGV) with a cross section of 6 mm². Also, it will need special lugs NShVI (insulated pin sleeve tip), they are needed in order to put together a stranded wire before switching under the screw (the cores will spread - there may be poor contact). It is also convenient to use special single-pole and double-pole busbars (in the right photo in the background) to connect a number of circuit breakers.
15. Switching in junction boxes is as follows. The WAGO 2273 terminals (left) are used on conductors with a cross section of 3x1.5 mm² (why and why - further) and WAGO 222 (on the right) on conductors with a cross section of 3x2.5 mm². Be sure to always follow the color coding of the conductors. WAGO 222 series is perhaps the best option if you don’t want to mess with soldering and crimping.
16. Installation of sockets and switches. I really like Schneider Electric products, the Unica series. Switches according to modern standards must be turned down. Turning up is old school from the days of circuit breakers, which were designed to turn up. Switches of the Unica series turn downwards, this is their regular position.
17. The switching of double sockets standing next to each other is as follows. The power wire comes to the terminals of one outlet, and then a branch is made to the next one. The rules of good manners prescribe when installing sockets to connect the phase conductor on the right.
18. We return to the electrical panel. I want to draw your attention right away - always take a shield with a very large margin, it definitely won’t be superfluous. I kind of did everything to a minimum, but almost all 36 positions (3 rows of 12 positions) were occupied. Be sure to leave a supply of wires of power lines equal to at least one and a half height of the shield. On the right you can see the first version of the switching, but in fact this is the moment when the house was switched from a temporary electrical circuit to a permanent one. In the process, a couple of consumers appeared and the circuit was slightly modified.
So, I tell you in detail what, how and why. Go!
A few words about the components of the shield.
Automatic switch or just automatic. Provides short circuit protection and also provides electrical wiring protection. Therefore, it contains two releases - electromagnetic and thermal, respectively. The first is triggered in the event of a short circuit on the line, the response time is determined by the time-current characteristic, which in any case is several times higher than the current rating of the machine. The thermal release is a bimetallic plate with different coefficients of thermal expansion and is designed to protect electrical wiring. It is in accordance with the cross section of the cable and the sockets used that the nominal value of the machine is selected. The most popular mistake is to put a 25A machine on a power line with a 2.5 mm² wire on the basis that the cable will withstand. No you can not. And the reason lies in the sockets. Ordinary sockets are designed for current up to 16A. Therefore, this should be the value of the machine. And in general, in general, it is better to play it safe and reduce the nominal value of the machine, since it is he who will be able to protect the wiring from overheating or, even worse, a fire.
RCD is a protective device that detects leakage current. The simplest mechanical device is a differential current transformer. If you explain on the fingers, then the amount of current that "came" through the phase conductor should be equal to the amount of current that "left" through the neutral conductor. If "left" less than "came" - there is a leak, the protection is triggered. If there is grounding, the RCD will work as soon as a dangerous voltage appears on the device case, if there is no grounding, the RCD will work as soon as a person touches the case (it will be shocked a little). It follows from this that the RCD should always be used, and the presence of grounding only increases the level of safety. At the same time, it is categorically impossible to do self-made grounding in the apartment in its absence, the consequences can be very sad. It is worth noting about the RCD that it itself needs to be protected from short-circuit current, therefore, after it, there should be an automaton (s) in the line with a lower rating than the RCD itself. The rating of the RCD itself implies what maximum current it is designed for, it is better to focus on a 20-30% margin from a constant load. The easiest way to check the operation of the RCD and the correct grounding is to close the zero and ground conductors in the outlet. The RCD should immediately turn off.
To summarize: a circuit breaker protects wiring and equipment, an RCD protects a person. There are still difautomats (here and earlier I use the terminology that has developed in our country, although it is not entirely accurate), a device that combines the functions of an automaton and an RCD.
Now let's move on to the shield:
We start from the top left corner. Here comes the 3x6 mm² cable from the street shield. Introductory RCD with a leakage current of 300 mA. Popularly called "fire fighting". It is used in combination with an RCD for a lower leakage current, firstly, to ensure selectivity during shutdown (first of all, it will knock out the “junior” RCD), and secondly, to increase fault tolerance. Behind him is the ABB C11 meter, which I use exclusively for technical electricity metering (to report to you the consumption figures of an air source heat pump and not run to the street shield for this). After it, there are two bipolar automata that also act as knife switches. The left one, with a rating of 40A, is used to de-energize the entire electrical system of the house, with the exception of the air source heat pump. The right one, respectively, controls the air source heat pump). To the right is the anti-icing system thermostat (20 meters of heating cable in the gutter and drains) and three machines: for it and two lines of street outlets (which in turn are powered by one RCD from the next row).
Second row. In the left corner there is a common ground bus for all lines. Pay attention to switching. You should not lay wires behind the rails, it is better to conduct them as openly as possible. Next, we have a line of RCDs in the amount of 6 pieces, along which all consumers in the house are evenly divided. The leakage current of all RCDs is 30 mA, although ideally for a bathroom it is worth using an RCD with a leakage current of 10 mA.
Third row. State machines of consumers along the lines. On the left, right and bottom are the corresponding zero tires extending from a specific RCD for each line. They must be separate, otherwise there will be no point in separating the RCD along separate lines. The automata are combined into groups according to the types of load.
How to choose the rated current of the machine? As we explained above, the rating of the machine is selected based on the cross section of the conductor (a copper conductor with a cross section of 2.5 mm² can withstand 25A of long-term load) and switching devices (household sockets are designed for currents up to 16A). Everyone knows how to convert amps to watts - multiply by voltage (220 volts).
20. Close-up of the bottom row of machine guns. Single-core cables are switched directly under the screws, multi-core cables must first be crimped with a ferrule. There are many unfounded claims of "specialists" to IEK products, and very in vain. This is an excellent option in terms of price / quality ratio. They are made in China, Russia and Turkey. And they perform their function no worse than the "racially faithful" ABB and Legrand. Don't believe? Ask real electricians, not charlatans selling what is more expensive. All of Moscow, after a recent modernization, is electrified on IEK automation, of course, on a million scale, the quantitative statistics of failures will be higher than in the case of other brands that are used in the housing stock by several orders of magnitude less. What bad things can happen to IEC? Nothing that could harm a person. The RCD or machine after operation simply will not turn back on and will require replacement. That's all.
21. Assembled shield assembly.
22. And the layout along the lines with signatures. Simple and functional. Line groups are highlighted in color. If an accident occurs, for example, on the line with the pump, then only it will turn off, and the power supply of the entire house will not be affected. To many, such an amount of RCDs may seem redundant. Indeed, a sufficient minimum is one introductory RCD for the entire object with a leakage current of 30 mA. Remember - RCD should always be. Even if you do not have a modernized input in your apartment and use a TN-C connection with two wires. Yes, you don’t have a separate ground, and the RCD will not work out the phase leakage situation on the device case without the “help” of a person. But RCD will protect a person.
23. Well, the final types of sockets in the premises. Let me remind you that on outlet lines the machine should not exceed a rating of 16A (for example, I have a line to the bedroom with a NYM 3x1.5 mm² cable (I don’t see the need to turn on a load of more than 2 kW there), and therefore the machine on this line has a rating of current 10A.
24. And a couple of words about lighting. Everywhere in the house there are inexpensive lamps chambered for GU10. From LED lamps, I ordered several models from China for tests, and also took “Russian China” under the Camelion and Woltra brands. With the price of the latter about 230 rubles per lamp, I will honestly say that it is pointless to buy anything from China. All samples at a price of less than 150 rubles apiece have a serious variation in color temperature, not to mention too low (Ra<70) индексе цветопередачи.
Everything related to electrical networks is described in detail and clearly in the PUE (Electrical Installation Rules). There are some disagreements between the chapters, but in general everything is correct.
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An obligatory part of the repair work in the apartment is the replacement or installation of electrical cables, junction boxes, electrical panels. A well-chosen wiring diagram will protect your home from accidents and unforeseen situations.
We will tell you what you need to provide for self-replacing or laying electricians. Here you will learn how to draw up a diagram and distribute electrical outlets in one-room, two- and three-room apartments. Based on our recommendations, you will be able to provide yourself with a trouble-free energy network.
Modern household technologies at the end of the 20th century made a tangible breakthrough. In addition to televisions, computers, security and video surveillance systems, powerful household appliances, and wireless communications appeared in homes. In this regard, the wiring of electrical cables has become much more complicated, although the principles of the device have not changed.
Difficulties begin with the very first stage - design. In order to correctly draw up a wiring diagram in an apartment, you need to know in advance the approximate power of household electrical appliances, their location. At the same time, it is necessary to think over the lighting system in all rooms.
If you do not take into account the laying of computer cables and the installation of a router for a home network, in the future you will get wires hanging on the wall or stretched along the floor. At best, they can be hidden in the plinth or sewn into boxes.
In addition to a large number of new devices, another difference has appeared: along with the power network, there is always a low-current system, which traditionally includes telephone and television wires, as well as computer, security, acoustic equipment and an intercom.
These two systems (power and low-current) cannot be separated, since all devices are powered by 220 V power sources.
Wiring diagram of a low-current system in an apartment. Includes three networks: computer, telephone and television. Each network has its own types of cable and equipment.
The number of devices and cables operated simultaneously has changed. If earlier it was enough to install one chandelier in the hall, now many people use a lighting system that includes, in addition to the chandelier, spotlights and lighting.
An increase in power must be added to the increase in the number of equipment - for this reason, the old cables are no longer suitable, and the dimensions of the electrical switchboard have grown noticeably.
What is a wiring diagram for?
It turns out that the device of modern electrical wiring in an apartment is a real art, which only a professional electrician can handle.
If you do not want to constantly change the wall decoration in order to mask cables that appear here and there, we recommend that before repairing an apartment or building a house, draw up a drawing indicating all significant objects related to electricity: sockets, switches, electrical panel with, lighting fixtures.
Consider the power grid in terms of its constituent parts:
- Automatic protection devices installed in the electrical panel. The functioning of all home equipment and the safety of users depend on their quality and proper installation.
- Cables, wires with a properly selected section and good insulation.
- Sockets and switches with high-quality contacts, safe cases.
In private houses, an obligatory element is an introductory machine and a power cable from it to the shield. With the help they regulate the power consumption and, if necessary, turn off all the electricity at home.
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