This tutorial will teach you about the hot new trend in photography. HDR! You'll learn how to take pictures, mix, and tone map to expand dynamic range and create paint-like results.
Lesson for working in Photoshop CS3 and higher.
Photo
Convert to HDR
Tone mapping / Tone mapping
Image merging
Curves
Click on the screenshot to view the image in actual size.
Step 0 (Introduction)
In this tutorial we will look at HDR photography. HDRI (High Dynamic Range Imaging) was originally used in 3D, and now in full force in photography. Simply put, it is the process of shooting at different exposures and combining the images into a single 32-bit image. So, I Let me explain: the camera is capable of capturing a limited number of tones in one photo. Usually we sacrifice some elements of the photo while taking it. For example, we have a landscape with clouds and rocks. If we expose the clouds, the rocks will become dark. If we adjust the exposure. cameras on rock details, then bright sky will fade and details will be lost. This is because the human eye can perceive a wider range of tones than what a camera can capture in a single photograph.
The solution to this is to take more than one photo and combine the photos.
Taking a photo with a normal exposure, then taking a photo with a lower exposure to make it bright, and then a higher exposure to capture shadow detail.
Ultimately, it is necessary to combine these images together to obtain a single image with wide range tones, which can now show all the details in highlights and shadows. This tutorial will show you how to carry out this process without fuss.
First we need to get the original images (You can use a 32-bit 3D image and skip straight to step 6). We will shoot this image with a camera. You need to take at least two photos with different exposure settings.
Adobe recommends limiting bracketing in increments of one exposure stop, which will help reduce the range.
Bracketing - Also called "forking". Shooting with the camera a series of frames (three or more), which differ in parameters with a specified value interval (exposure, white balance, etc.).
You can also take 5 or more shots with shorter bracketing intervals. Personally, I can do it good result from three pictures. I like to increase and decrease the shutter speed by two stops. I know it's a larger frame than most people are used to using, but for the type of HDR images I like to create (cityscapes), it's very suitable. If you're a photography enthusiast, you can even reduce the bracketing to 3 steps.
(Note: For true HDR, you cannot take one raw photo and change its exposure multiple times, as some people suggest. This effect is known as pseudo-HDR. Photoshop will not allow you to combine these images because they do not capture the desired tones).
Step 1. Let's start with three images. One with normal exposure, one with less exposure, and one with greater exposure. IN in this case I use bracketing at 2 stop intervals because I mostly shoot flat surfaces. If you are shooting round and uneven surfaces, then you are better off lowering the bracketing to get more smooth transition.
I set the bracketing on my camera to 2 stops. Then I set the shooting mode to a timer. After that I get three photos. I shoot in RAW mode to get a wider dynamic range. You can also create HDR even if your camera doesn't support RAW.
Make sure you are shooting in Aperture Priority mode or manual mode. You need to set the exposure time, but not the aperture. If you change the aperture, the depth of field will not be consistent with the settings and you will end up with a blurry image. Also avoid moving objects in the photo, otherwise you will get a ghost effect.
Step 2. It's time to combine the photos into a single 32-bit image.
Select File-
Automate -
MergetoHDR(File - Automation - Merge intoHDR).
It works in Photoshop CS2 and CS3 (CS2 does not have auto-align).
Select all images or a folder. I put each set of photos in a separate folder, so I select the option Folder(Folder). Highlight your photos for reference. Check the box AutoAlign(Auto-level) in Photoshop CS3. Click OK (Photoshop CS3 uses new technology auto-alignment, which even allows you to create HDR without using a tripod!).
Step 3. Your images are now combined into a single photo. You can move individual photos by unchecking the boxes next to them in the left column. If you end up with a slightly blurry effect on something as a result of camera movement during a long delay, you can turn that photo off.
Step 4. The combined result is a highly customizable bitmap. You can completely change the tones by moving the white slider on the right. Just go easy with it - the slightest movement of the slider gives absolutely excellent results.
Step 5. Click OK to convert the photo to a 32-bit image. Now is a very good time to save the image.
Step 6 To work properly with photos, you need to convert them to 16-bit or 8-bit images. Once you've converted them, we'll start creating what I call a photo interpretation. The reason I say this is because of the unlimited number of ways we can use to transform a photo. As long as we have a huge 32-bit image with high dynamic range, we cannot use it for further processing. Always start with a 32-bit image, then convert it and save other variations (your own interpretations). Avoid overwriting 32-bit images, they are our lifesaver, we can return to them many times.
Select Image - Mode - 16 bit (Image- Mode-16 bit) (or 8 bit (8 bit)). Now let's play with some interesting parameters. Now you have moved on to the process of so-called tone mapping (tone mapping). This is the place for creativity.
(If you want to make the correction without converting, select View - 32bit Preview Options (View- 32 Bit Preview Options). You can also use several photoshop tools from the menu Image -
Adjustment(Image - Correction). The most important of the presented parameters is the control parameter exposure (exposure)).
You will see a dialog box HDRConversion(Conversion/AdjustmentHDR).
The default settings are Exposure (Exposure) and Gamma (Gamma)
(approx. degree of contrast). How can I better understand how they work? Set the gamma first and then the exposure as shown in the example. If you want the image to have more contrast, reduce the gamma value. To reduce contrast, raise the gamma value. Finally, adjust the exposure to achieve the desired brightness. If you want more transformations, read on, if not, click OK.
Step 7 Replace method (method) on local adaptation (localadaptation). (In front of you there are 4 available methods, but only in two is user influence possible).
With this method you can adjust curves (curves).
Work with them as you are used to working, but don't be afraid to trim them a little. This is acceptable because you are working with a larger dynamic range than you are used to working with. Bring out the details of the image, but be sure to add shadows where they will be somewhat blurry or unsightly. Once you understand the curves, adjust the position of the sliders radius (radius)
And threshold(threshold), to avoid the appearance of halos in the photo. (A poorly converted HDR image has some glow around it in areas of contrast.) The radius is responsible for masking the blur, while the threshold decides what will be blurred and what will not.
Click OK to convert.
Step 8 This is a combined image from HDR. The second image is a variation. In the second variation I used exposure (exposure), curves (curves) and sharpness settings (sharpening) in 32 bit mode ( Highlight Compression Method). Photoshop is great for creating very realistic HDR images.
Step 9 If you want to achieve more surreal results, use various plugins. My favorite plugin is Photomatix Pro from the HDRsoft website. You can use this tone mapping plugin for Photoshop, it works great.
Using the Photomatix tone mapping plugin will allow you to add texture detail to your photos. Combine them in Photoshop as shown in this tutorial. Then select Filter -Photomatix, to apply tone mapping. Convert and save as usual.
Step 10 This image shows how a photo looks after tone mapping in Photomatix pro.
Step 11 Here you can see a comparison between a single image, a transformed image through Photoshop HDR, and a radical effect in Photomatix. Regardless of the result you get, I hope this tutorial helped dispel the myths about creating HDR.
Step 12
Here's another HDR shot of mine. This is a night shot converted to grayscale.
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial!
I express my gratitude to Evgeny Kartashov for advice on terminology.
Working on HDR explains in detail:
Merge HDR Photo Image
HDR Image Processing
Working with image tones.
Image 1. Final result of Photoshop HDR image.
In picture 1 you see the final result of all the work we have done.
To see the full-size version, read the article to the bottom of the page.
Combining photos into HDR images
The process of creating an HDR image in Photoshop is quite simple:
Click Merge to HDR… on the menu ( File > Automate > Merge to HDR…)
Click on the Browse button and select the images with which we will work (at least two images). The photographs themselves can be, for example, either in JPEG or RAW format.
Click OK and Photoshop will merge the selected photos automatically. This operation may take some time. If you decide to combine high-resolution photos, for example raw photos. (In my humble experience, this may take ½-3 hours to complete Intel Core 2 Duo 1.8GHz combining 14-bit 12 megapixel raw photos.)
Once the merge is complete, you will immediately see a preview window, as in Figure 2. On the left side in front of you are your original photos, in the center you will see an HDR photo, by right side a histogram is displayed. The red tick in the histogram represents EV steps. A normal digital camera is capable of capturing 6-8 EVS of dynamic range. My HDR photo covers a dynamic range of almost 10EVs (Figure 2). This way, the dynamic range of more than one frame can be captured. In my example, the HDR image is created from 9 frames at 1EV intervals. Some may think that 9 exposure is too funny. It's true that 10EVs of dynamic range can be captured in even just two frames and the result will be of poor quality. I don't know if HDR programs merge algorithms, but presumably they take the best parts of the photo and/or some average difference between pixels in different shots, and so the noise is effectively reduced if there are at least a few exposures. Thus, several photos with short exposure intervals are better than several photos with large exposure intervals (at least the problem with noise disappears). My example photo is noise-free, even in the darkest areas.
(You might be surprised that the slider is below the histogram. We only need it to see the effect on the HDR image. All HDR images remain unchanged, even when using the slider.)
Saving an HDR image
After clicking OK in the HDR utility, our image will open normally in Photoshop. This is the first thing you and I must save. For example, our HDR photo should be saved in PSD or OpenEXR format. Personally, the author uses the OpenEXR format because sometimes he has to work in third-party programs (for example, Photomatix) that support HDR images.
Image 2. Combining photos into an HDR image.
Original HDR image in Photoshop
In Figure 3 you can see what the original HDR image looks like in Photoshop. Let's look at this image and see what else we're missing. There are a few problems: a yellow tint, perspective distortion, some barrel distortion, and distracting elements on the left side. My goal is to correct all these little things and create a high-contrast and symmetrical photo, as well as make the sky completely black.
Image 3: Original unprocessed Photoshop HDR image
Basic cleaning
First, let's take a couple of steps to clean up and fix some problems. I adjusted the exposure slider (at the bottom of the HDR image) to about 4 EV. To see problem areas in the sky. My goal is to completely achieve the result when our sky is completely black. If you look at the image on the left (Figure 4), you will see several blurry spots in the image and some dots. I use the Clone Stamp tool and other clean background copying techniques to get rid of them (see picture on the left). After cleaning, some blemishes and imaginary reflections and highlights disappeared from our sky, but the sky is still not black, we will deal with this later in the process of working with tones.
Image 4: Basic cleanup in Photoshop.
Perspective correction
Our next step will be to correct the perspective. First of all, turn on the grid ( View > Show > Grid). Then use the perspective tool ( Edit > Transform > Perspective) to eliminate perspective distortions. After the correction, I unfortunately notice that we still have barrel distortion. Removing barrel distortion is somewhat more difficult, but still doable, just use the Warp tool ( Edit > Transform > Warp).
Image 5. Perspective corrected.
Removing unnecessary elements and creating symmetry
There are some elements in our photo that distract our attention, here they are in the lower left corner (image 5). Next I will use the tool Clone Stamp and other methods to clear the corner of them. After I finished. We see that the photo melted cleaner, and the symmetry effect was stronger (Fig. 6).
Image 6. Trifles and symmetry.
Removing yellow and red highlights
Now is the time to eliminate yellow/red highlights from HDR photos. Let's do this by applying Hue/Saturation in the Hue and Color settings of the image. I slightly reduced the saturation of the red and yellow colors (Fig. 7).
Image 7: The yellow and red tones were removed using the Hue/Saturation tool.
More Light and Less Light
In our photo there are some very dark areas (at the top of the dome and stairs) and there are some very bright areas (the bright stripes). I can immediately say that the work on tone correction is at this stage, we will only worsen the picture. For example, in the process of adjusting the tone, working with a curve to darken the sky, we would ruin the domes and the stairs. In the same way, when they began to lighten the church, we would have ruined the lights. The solution to this problem is to work with the brightness of individual areas, which we can do manually:
More light for the dome and stairs
change the exposure (+1.5) adjust the layer making the domes and stairs bright enough
fill the layer mask with black (to give the effect to the entire image)
Less light, softer fields
Do Exposure (-3) adjusting the layer so that the lights are softer
Fill the mask with black (to give the effect to the entire image)
We go over a little with a brush and white color and create a mask, doing this to lighten the image (the dome and the stairs)
In image 8 you can see how the image turned out after adjusting the exposure. The domes and staircases became lighter and the lights softer. Agree that our HDR photography has become more beautiful. You can also set the exposure to +1.5 in dark areas without fear of noise appearing. (There is also a method of working with tones, in which initially we work completely in manual mode without affecting exposure settings, etc. However, in our example, we limited ourselves to minimal manual work.)
Image 8: The dome and staircase are lighter and the lanterns are clearer and darker.
Working with Tones
Now the image is ready to work with tones. The author had to make many tone adjustments in Photoshop in order to achieve best result. The reason for this capability is that when working on HDR photos, you can perform color correction without losing information (due to the high dynamic range). I recommend doing all color corrections before working on tones, and also saving images each time before starting to work on tones.
In Photoshop, working with tones begins by converting the image to 8-bit or 16-bit mode:
Click on the menu: Image > Mode > 16 Bits/Channel. Then open the HDR conversion tool in Photoshop ( HDR Conversion tool).
There are four different methods working with tones in Photoshop. I choose the sectional adaptation method because it is the only method that allows me to manually adjust the tone curves (click on the little arrow and adjust the tone curve).
In picture 9 you can see the HDR image after working with the method of adapting individual sections.
Image 9. adaptation of individual sections.
Adaptation of individual areas and tone curve
Take a look at photo 10. On the left you can see the default tone curve from image 9, and on the right you can see the adjusted tone curve that you can see in image 11.
Want to know how to change the tone curve?
Well let's take a look at the histogram in front of us. The steep peaks on the left are sky pixels, the peaks in the middle are church pixels. I want to achieve two things: black sky and a good and contrasting church. The curve in the right picture does just that. All pixels on the left side of the left panel are completely black. By moving the slider from right to left, we make dark pixels light. The same adjustments can be made to a steep curve, which equals high contrast.
Image 10. Left: initial position of the curve. Right: Tones are adjusted so that contrast is clear.
In Figure 11 you see the image after processing, but this is no longer an HDR image. This is only a 16-bit image.
Image 11. 16-bit image after conversion in Photoshop
Sharpness
Last of all, we work with sharpness. Let's convert the image into a smart object and apply the Smart Sharpen filter to it. In the picture you see 12 final processed photos.
Image 12: final processed photo
This article is a translation of Mons
Original text: www.secondpicture.com/tutorials/photography/photoshop_hdr.html
Photoshop lessons
Surely everyone has seen HDR photos on the Internet: clear outlines, fabulously saturated colors... In reality, you will need a modern professional camera to achieve the HDR effect. A photograph is created with different exposures, i.e. the camera takes photographs several times - in light and dark versions, then either in hardware or software (Photomatix, or a plug-in for Photoshop, again from Photomatix), the ranges are combined to obtain a rich image.
This tutorial will show you how to create a similar HDR effect to a regular photo using basic Photoshop tools.
First, select an image. When choosing an image to work with, make sure that the photo has the potential to create HDR effect. Photographs of buildings, landscapes and other inanimate objects are more suitable for this. But you can experiment!
Open the selected photo in Photoshop and immediately make a copy of the original layer (Ctrl+J).
Step 1
1a. Select Image > Adjustment > Shadow/Highlight (Image > Settings > Shadows/Light).
1b. In the window we set the values:
Shadow Amount: 50%
Tonal Width: 45%
Radius: 44px
Highlight Amount: 65%
Tonal Width: 65%
Radius: 46px
Your photo should now resemble this:
Step 2
2a. Select "Layers" from the menu or right-click on the layer in the Layers palette and select "Duplicate Layer". Let's name this layer "Baselight".
2b. Right click on this newly created layer (in the layers palette) and select "Blending Options". Set the layer's blending mode to "Color Dodge". This will brighten the colors of the photo and brighten the highlights to white. Don't worry, we'll fix the image later.
The photo should now resemble this:
Step 3
At this point we will basically repeat step 2 but with a different result.
3a. Right-click on the base layer you started with, but now call the duplicate layer "Linear Burn". Right click on this new layer and select "Blending Options", set the blending mode to Linear Burn. Don't worry if you see another photo result, we'll adjust that later.
Step 4
This is a very easy step.
4a. Right-click on the "Linear Burn" layer that we made in the previous step and duplicate it. Name the layer "Overlay". Right click on this layer and change the blending mode to "Overlay".
By manipulating layers and blending modes, we get this image:
Step 5
Now it's time to adjust the layers to get the final layer mix.
5a. Now it’s like this: in the layers palette at the top there is an “Opacity” option. Let's change the transparency values of the layers and thus blend them. I used the following values for the layers:
Base Layer (the base layer we started working with): 100%
Color Dodge: 100%
Linear Burn: 10%
Overlay: 100%
You can change the values a little: 45% for the "Overlay" layer and 55% - 60% for the "Linear Burn". At this stage, select values depending on the photo.
Step 6
The resulting Artifacting (i.e. distortion of the image data, which leads to a general deterioration in quality: blockiness (decay into squares)) can be eliminated with a "Neat Image" filter or similar, or blurred a little with a basic one.
Hi all!
Photoshop Creative Cloud uses Adobe Camera RAW as a built-in filter. It is constantly being improved and acquiring more and more new and interesting opportunities. So, in version 9.1 of this application, interesting opportunities appeared for creationHDR images and stitching panoramas.
A very interesting direction in photography is the creation of HDR images. The abbreviation HDR comes from High Dynamic Range and means “high dynamic range” in English.
In the material about the main stages of RAW conversion, I tried to talk in detail about the tonal range of the scene being shot and the dynamic range of the photosensitive element of the camera.
Briefly, the point is that when shooting a real high-contrast scene, our camera is not able to capture the entire wide tonal range.
In this case, an unpleasant moment arises - the dark areas of the photo, the tonality of which does not fit into the dynamic range of the camera, will turn black, and the light areas, lighter than the camera can record, will be brightened to bright white. All detail in these areas disappears.
In such cases, you can compromise and take a photo with correctly exposed shadows or highlights, depending on what is more important, or you can use the capabilities of specialized programs or Photoshop, which allow you to create images with an extended dynamic range - HDR images.
There are three techniques known to me that expand the tonal range of an image.
Mixing frames taken with different exposures in Photoshop, one image exposed to light areas, and the second to dark ones. After this, in Photoshop, both frames are opened in one document on different layers, a layer mask is applied to one of them, and on it, for example, for an image with detailed shadows, normally displayed light areas from the other image are shown.
Tone mapping. The point is that monitors, and especially photographic paper, have an even smaller tonal range than cameras. To bring pictures into a format that can be displayed on specified media, i.e. into an 8 or 16 bit image, and this technique exists.
Well, and the actual creation of HDR itself - images with a greater dynamic range than in conventional 8/16-bit images. The limit from which HDR begins is considered to be 13.3 exposure stops (brightness range 1:10,000)
What is needed to create HDR images?
We need to take several frames in which the required real scene will be captured, but in each frame its own section of the tonal range will be recorded, that is, individual photographs will be exposed under various areas by brightness.
Modern cameras have a shooting function with automatic exposure bracketing. In this case, taking into account the special settings of the camera, at least three frames are taken - the main one is a frame with normal exposure, and the rest are automatically fixed with the exposure at a certain number of steps in “plus” or “minus”, for example +/- 1 EV.
To demonstrate the processes in this material I borrowed photographs of my very good friend, Photographer with a capital P, professional landscape painter - Oksana Ermikhina. In her works, Oksana often uses the method of creating HDR; you can easily find her excellent works on the Internet. The only thing is that she uses a specialized program Photomatix, and we will look at the principle using the example of the Camera RAW application in Photoshop.
So, we need to combine three images with different exposures into a single whole.
It is best to use the method of creating HDR images on RAW files, since they contain the maximum information recorded by the light-sensitive element of your camera. Open them in Camera RAW.
After that, press the key combination “Ctrl + A” or left-click on the icon with lines in the upper right part of the “Film Strip” window and select the line “Select all” in the menu that appears.
The process of combining images and generating a preview preview starts.
Upon completion of this operation, a preview window of the combined images appears.
The settings are minimized, but the main tasks here can be controlled. The Straighten Image option allows you to eliminate possible movement in the frame. If you turn it off, then when the “Remove ghosting” function is turned on, the program will show which parts of the image moved during the shooting process.
By enabling the “Align Image” command, this module uses a special algorithm to eliminate mismatched elements in the image. It does not always cope with the task and then retouching will be required, but this is mainly due to the movement of large objects in the frame.
The Auto Tone option helps automatically equalize the brightness and contrast of the resulting image.
Without using the Autotone function.
With its use.
If you want, turn it on, if you want, not. Either in the first case or in the second, you will still be able to make corrections in the future.
Click the “Merge” button. The program asks where to save the linked file. Saving occurs in the DNG (Digital Negative Specification) format - an open format for RAW image files used in digital photography.
During the process of assembly and saving in the application, the final HDR image is formed.
After working with the adjustments on the “Basic” tab, we get the following picture.
Let's see - this is what we had as a normally exposed photo coming out of the camera.
And this is what we got as a result of assembling an HDR image by combining three frames taken with exposure bracketing.
Basically, you can say that you can achieve these results simply by resorting to the Highlight and Shadow adjustments in Camera RAW. In principle, YES, but this is the case if the tonal width of the scene being photographed is not so large, that is, the difference between the light and dark areas of the image can be included in the dynamic range of the image displayed on the monitor using a converter. But even in this case, the creation of HDR has its place, since raising the brightness in the shadows using ordinary conversion will cause sharp increase noise, and the HDR creation method frees you from it.
Due to ethical reasons, I, unfortunately, cannot provide you with RAW files of the author, but I think you can easily test the effectiveness of this method on your own works.
CreationHDR it's very simple and effective!
Happy creative success!
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Why is photographing a room with a pleasant view from the window always fraught with either harsh overexposure of bright areas or the effect of a cellar immersed in darkness? Why do buildings appear so well in the photo, while the sky against their background takes on the appearance of a colorless spot? All of these are unfortunate manifestations of the limited capabilities of the matrix.
Opportunities that allow you to recreate an image with good detail in the most and least illuminated areas in a way that human vision can do. For comparison, our eye is capable of detecting brightness differences of 12-14 stops (or 12-14 stops - the units in which dynamic range is measured, that is, roughly speaking, the difference between the darkest and brightest point of the image); black and white film - about 10; color negative film - 7; and the matrices of digital cameras are up to 8 stops for the most expensive models and 4-6 for most cameras. But even something as small as 4-6 stops is not a death sentence for your creative capabilities. After all, it’s not the camera that takes pictures, it’s the photographer. And in such cases, HDR photography technology (High Dynamic Range - English “extended dynamic range”) allows you to jump above your head.
Lesson result:
Of all the methods for editing HDR photos, we will now look at the main ones. The classic technique for creating XDR is to take several identical frames with different exposures using a tripod. Usually there are three such frames: normal - to convey halftone areas, underexposed - with well-developed shadows, and overexposed - to convey light areas. To get them, resort to the following maneuvers:
Exposure bracketing or bracketing - consists of setting a kind of “bracket” relative to the normal exposure, after which the camera takes not one, but 3 pictures at once - one with a “normal” exposure, and the rest, underexposed and overexposed, with the exposure shifted to the specified one size.
Exposure compensation: The idea is the same, only you set a different offset for each individual shot. The resulting images are then combined.
The disadvantage of the above-described techniques is that they are applicable only in the case of absolutely static shooting objects. Of course - in some cases it is possible to take only one photo. For example, if we are dealing with photographing moving objects. Then an alternative to exposure bracketing can be the overlay of different exposure versions of one RAW file. Any RAW converter has an exposure compensation function. Naturally, the possibilities for expanding the dynamic range in this way are much narrower than with bracketing. But in order for the HDR photo not to lose its realism, it is enough to establish a difference of 2-3 stops between an under- and overexposed photo.
So here's a way to create an HDR image using Photoshop.
With two files in the form of layers, resulting from conversion at different exposure compensation settings, we continue to work in Photoshop. The halftone layer should be on the bottom. To perfectly match the images to each other, drag the image from the source files to the final file while holding down the Shift key. One option for further processing is:- The key combination is Ctrl+Alt+~, thereby selecting the light areas.
- Invert the mask (top menu of Photoshop Select => Inverse).
- Create a new layer with this selection (top menu of Photoshop Layer => New =>Layer via Copy).
- Turn off the visibility of the middle layer and adjust the transparency of the top layer (Opacity slider in the Layers window, F7) in order to get the desired final image.
However, processing of this kind is not always advisable. An alternative algorithm - starting from the top layer, using a soft translucent brush, we remove areas with incorrect exposure, gradually reducing the Opacity value for it. Then we move on to working on the next layer, if there are several of them.
Unfortunately, not all cameras support the RAW format. When, for example, you have a single JPEG file on hand, you can simulate 2 exposure versions using Levels or Curves correction, but often, due to the reduced amount of information that is generally inherent in this format, you will only be able to pull out problem areas insignificant. The same can be done with TIFF - this, however, will not increase the quality, but the loss of the latter will be slightly reduced during processing.
Creating HDR photographs can also be entrusted to a program such as Photomatix.
In this case, the process of generating HDR will be less labor-intensive.
We open 3 images in Photomatix, exposed with a difference of 2 stops, to do this, select the Generate tab from the top HDR menu. After Photomatix asks you which images to use, the exposure settings for each photo will be checked. In this case, you should make sure that the program has determined the values correctly and there is a checkmark next to use standard response curve. If you select the Align LDR images before generating HDR image option, Photomatix will align the images when merging them. Click OK. HDR is ready. True, at this stage the resulting image is unlikely to correspond to the traditional idea of an HDR photo and the desired result. To give it a more acceptable look, go to the HDR menu and select Tone Mapping. Experimenting with adjustments as well as various functions Photomatix, you can achieve the most balanced and realistic image.
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