Wood is a traditional material for building houses. It is intuitively clear that the more massive and thicker the wall, the lower temperatures it can withstand. Today, it is far from always possible to find the building material of the required dimensions. The solution is to perform additional thermal insulation of the walls.
Principles of insulation
So, for a wooden wall with a thickness of 150 mm, it can have two options.
Option 1:
- interior decoration;
- air gap;
- vapor barrier;
- insulation layer 5 cm;
- vapor barrier;
- air gap;
- wall.
Option 2:
- interior decoration;
- air gap;
- vapor barrier;
- insulation layer 5 cm;
- wall.
Both options work up to -15C° outside air temperature in exactly the same way. A comfortable thermal regime is maintained inside the room (+23 С°).
With further lowering of the temperature in the first variant with two air gaps, condensate does not form down to -20 ° C. In the second, starting from -16 ° C, the dew point shifts to the border of the timber-insulation.
Increasing the thickness of the insulation, paradoxically, will only worsen the situation. With a thickness of the thermal insulation layer of 10 cm, condensate will form already at -12 ° C.
It can be seen from the calculations that insulation from the inside during severe and prolonged frosts is ineffective. However, the option with two air gaps has the right to exist with seasonal residence in cold climatic zones and year-round in temperate zones with mild winters.
Ventilation air
The ventilation gap allows air to circulate inside the wall. It allows you to remove a certain amount of moisture (condensate formed in cold weather).
Internal vents are formed by stuffing vertical slats 20 mm thick and about 40 mm wide onto the wall surface. Fastening is carried out with nails or self-tapping screws.
A vapor barrier membrane is installed over the installed rails. It is fixed with a construction stapler. An important nuance is orientation. The smooth side should be facing the insulation, rough from it. This will allow water vapor to escape from the volume of thermal insulation towards the air gap and will not let them back.
Execution of the frame and installation of thermal insulation
The main part of the insulating structure is a frame for installing insulation mats. For its manufacture, it is best to use bars with a section of 40 x 50 mm or 50 x 50 mm. Such a section will provide sufficient spatial rigidity.
Fastening of vertical racks is carried out to the floor and ceiling with the help of profiled fixing plates and self-tapping screws. If necessary, to give greater strength, it is possible to carry out through fastening with large self-tapping screws directly to the wall of the house. For the convenience of carrying out subsequent work, the pitch of the vertical racks must correspond to the dimensions of the insulation mats (800 or 600 mm).
To fix the mineral wool in the frame, no fasteners are required. Mats are installed tightly, by surprise. It is very important to completely fill the entire space between the racks in order to exclude microconvection and cold air bridges through the internal slots in the insulation layer.
vapor barrier
The principles and techniques for installing the second vapor barrier layer are similar to the first. The diffusion membrane is unfolded over the entire surface with a smooth side to the insulation and fastened with a stapler.
A continuous barrier is created that protects the interior of the frame with insulation from the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room.
Air gap
By analogy with the first air gap, rails are stuffed onto the frame racks through the installed membrane. They serve to organize the ventilation space and are the basis for fixing the finishing of the room.
Finishing sheathing
Finishing can be the most diverse:
- lining;
- block house;
- OSB boards or drywall sheets, followed by plastering or wallpapering.
The best option to preserve the color and atmosphere of a wooden house is to imitate a bar. If everything is done carefully, then an ignorant person will never guess about the presence of a heater behind the sheathing boards.
Wooden buildings retain heat well. But if in a warm climate the natural properties of wood are sufficient to maintain comfortable conditions in the house, then in regions with low winter temperatures the house must be additionally insulated. Installation of a heat insulator is carried out on walls, floors, ceilings - if any surface is left uncoated, the insulation of a wooden house from the inside will be less effective. It would be best to do the insulation even during construction - it is much more difficult to carry out work in a habitable room
When installing the insulation, a gap must be left between it and the finish for air circulation. This helps to prevent the accumulation of moisture in the rooms, the appearance of mold and mildew.
How wooden houses are insulated inside
Most often, houses made of timber are insulated inside with various types of construction wool - basalt (mineral), fiberglass and others. These are light and affordable materials, environmentally friendly. The industry produces rolled and block types of cotton wool.
Basalt wool retains heat well, but lets air through. Thanks to this quality, fungus and mold do not appear in the rooms.
glass wool absorbs a lot of moisture, so in order to avoid condensation, an additional layer of waterproofing is made for it. A big disadvantage of glass wool is its complex structure. The material is saturated with a large amount of glass microparticles (hence the name). When working with cotton, they get into the respiratory organs, on clothes. For safe work with glass wool, special clothing and a respirator are required.
All types of wool are easy to install. To install a heat insulator from such a material, high qualifications are not required. Roll types of cotton wool have high plasticity, but they are less dense than block ones. When working with roll materials, you can cut off the required amount of insulator. Tiled ones are made of the same size, therefore, during installation, the battens take into account the size of the pieces.
Source building.lvInsulation of wooden walls is also carried out with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene.
Styrofoam popular due to its low cost. In addition, it is easy to work with and retains heat well. It is a good sound insulator. The disadvantage is the release of toxic substances during combustion.
Video description
We will dwell in more detail on the insulation of the house with foam plastic. Find out how safe polystyrene foam is in our video:
Preparatory work
How to properly insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside, largely depends on the right materials. If this issue is resolved, then you can proceed to the preparatory work, which consists in preparing the surface and making the crate.
For reference! When preparing the surface, it is required to close the gaps that may have appeared between the bars or logs. To do this, you will need additional materials: tow, felt or polyurethane foam.
Wooden blocks are most often used as crates. Rarely mount a metal crate. The metal for the crate must be coated with an anti-corrosion compound.
Preparation of wooden surfaces
For high-quality application of the insulator, the surface is prepared for coating with insulation. Tow/felt/foam is placed in the slots. After the gap is completely closed, the foam has dried and its excess is removed, putty is applied to the wall. The putty layer is carefully leveled. The wood is coated with a special composition that protects against mold and fungus damage. All wooden surfaces are treated with a fire-fighting compound before installing the insulation.
On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of wooden houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Basalt wool insulation technology
After the walls (ceiling) have dried after processing, proceed with the installation of insulation.
Stages of work when insulating walls with basalt wool:
Determine extreme elements crates. They are carefully checked using a level and a plumb line, since further installation work depends on their position.
Fix the first vertical bar with screws and dowels.
At a distance of 1 m, fix the following vertical slats and so on, until the entire surface is covered with a crate. For the installation of rolled wool, the installation of the crate at this stage ends.
If there is on the wall windows or doorways, separate bars are installed along their perimeter.
For installation lumpy heat insulator make a grid of battens with horizontal elements. On the resulting vertical grid, horizontal strips are stuffed at an equal distance. The distance between the bars should correspond to the dimensions of the insulation. The result was a grid for the installation of thermal insulation.
In the cavity between the fixed strips are placed cotton wool. When installing the heat insulator on the walls, do not use glue or other means for fixing. If the crate is done correctly, then the cotton wool will fit snugly against the surface, but you must remember about the ventilation gap. If the ceiling is insulated, then the insulation will have to be fixed.
Any cotton has a porous structure, so it accumulates moisture. Therefore, when insulating a wooden house with cotton wool, it must be covered with a vapor barrier. When installing the roll material, cut off the required length and fix it on the wall. Before starting work, you should calculate how much material is needed to insulate a wooden house. Add 10% to the resulting number.
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer home insulation services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".
Installation of foam
Styrofoam is rarely used as a heater. Despite the fact that the material has low thermal conductivity and retains heat well with a small thickness, it is considered an economical option.
Video description
For some thoughts on the use of foam and polystyrene foam, see the video:
In particular, there are many claims about the release of toxins during combustion, plus, it is believed that the foam plastic evaporates harmful substances into the air even at normal temperatures.
The material does not pass steam well and in a room without good ventilation, moisture will constantly accumulate.
Relatively easy installation can be attributed to the advantages of the material, which means that high qualifications will not be required from the workers, and the cost of work will be lower.
Styrofoam is available in slabs of various sizes and thicknesses Source on-woman.com
Stages of work on the installation of foam:
On a pre-prepared surface install the crate with a plank step equal to the size of the foam boards. Begin installation with load-bearing walls.
Between the bars lay the foam while maintaining the ventilation gap.
On top of the insulation is fixed membrane film. If it is possible to use other materials for other insulators, a special film with membranes is chosen for the foam. It will allow you to maintain a normal microclimate in the room.
Completing the installation of insulation finishing work.
Floor insulation
The concrete floor must be insulated. The wooden one is covered with a heat insulator as desired, but after insulation, the room will be much warmer.
In wooden houses, insulation is laid on a rough coating, and a finishing floor is already mounted on top.
As a vapor barrier, a film with a membrane, polyethylene is used. Insulation using roofing is popular among the people. This material has been known for a long time, it is cheap, well protected from moisture, durable.
Mineral wool is used as a floor insulation. It is cheap, easy to install, durable, has good heat and sound insulation properties. In addition, a relatively new material is increasingly being used - expanded polystyrene, which is gradually replacing cotton wool from the building materials market.
The sequence of actions when installing insulation on the floor of a wooden house.
Levels out surface for insulation.
Is being laid waterproofer/ vapor barrier, the task of which is to prevent moisture from entering the insulation from outside. In regions with wet soil, this stage should be given special attention.
Install lags. The thickness of the log must be at least 5 cm. The distance from the wall is 30 cm. The distance between the bars is 50 cm.
Between the lags are laid insulation. The presence of voids between individual pieces of heat insulator is not allowed.
Lay on top of the insulation vapor barrier film.
After the formation of all layers, lay finishing floor.
Video description
How the insulation is installed on the walls of a wooden house from the inside, see the video:
vapor barrier
If there is a need to install a vapor barrier, it is better to use a special film with a membrane.
It will allow the walls to pass air normally, and after installation, condensate will not accumulate inside the “pie”. To install a vapor barrier, a film or polyethylene is applied to the insulation. An allowance is made along the edges.
Elimination of heat losses
The weakest points in terms of cold penetration are the joints. There should be no gaps between the individual pieces of insulation. Insulating material is laid tightly to the crate. For floor insulation, an important point is the connection with the walls. In these places, the insulation is laid with a slight overlap on the walls and fixed.
When applying a vapor barrier, make sure that each layer of material is superimposed on the previous one with a slight overlap.
Insulating material is applied directly between the wooden beams before insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside. For this, long-known materials are used - tow, linen rope, linen. It is possible to fill the joints of the bars with modern sealants - latex, acrylic, rubber.
Still, to reduce heat loss in a wooden house, the “warm seam” method is used.
Conclusion
Despite the fact that it was previously believed that a wooden house should be insulated exclusively from the outside, modern materials allow high-quality insulation of the building from the inside. With such insulation, the external design is not violated and it will not be necessary to carry out work at height if the house is two-story or with an attic. The main thing is to choose the right material for insulation and entrust the work to professionals who know all the additional nuances. For example, they can calculate where the dew point will be after insulation so that condensate does not form right inside the wall.
Each person dreams of a warm house, so that even in the most severe frosts it would be comfortable to be indoors. Therefore, the first question that confronts the owners of their home is how to insulate the walls from the outside on their own. This is especially true for wooden buildings. In this article, we will give instructions according to which the walls of frame and timber houses are thermally insulated from the outside. And for a more visual example, you can watch the video.
There is a huge variety of thermal insulation materials. Let us dwell on the choice of insulation for wooden houses, which are massively used by consumers.
Warming a wooden house will help keep the wood from destruction Stone wool in slabs. Such material is easy to cut even with a conventional knife. Due to the light weight of the plates, it is easy to transport even in a passenger car, especially if you need to insulate a small area. During installation, stone wool is placed in the gap between the racks of the frame, and then insulated with vapor barrier material from the inside and waterproofing from the outside.
Attention! During transport or installation, never compress or tamp the mats.
Ecowool. This is an environmentally friendly material for insulation, based on cellulose fibers. Produced in a package, in a slightly compressed form. There are two ways to insulate this material:
- dry. To do this, the packaging with glass wool is opened, the material is kneaded and rammed into the walls. The disadvantage of this method is that over time the fibers can shrink, and this will lead to heat loss. However, some manufacturers give a guarantee that this material will not settle for 10-20 years.
- wet. Ecowool is sprayed onto the walls and clings to the building frame, so that the material does not settle.
Insulation of a wooden house from the outside Styrofoam. One of the most budgetary types of insulation. This material does not absorb moisture, so it is not necessary to cover it with a moisture-proof membrane. However, when working with foam, you need to show maximum accuracy, because it can crumble and break.
Attention! As a heater, you need to purchase non-pressed foam sheets.
polyurethane foam. It is sold in the form of two-component substances that begin to foam when applied to walls when exposed to air. In operation, such material is similar to mounting foam. They fill the voids in the wall, and cut off the excess. The result is a monolithic layer of insulation, which completely eliminates heat loss. Polyurethane foam has water-repellent properties.
Insulation of a house from a bar with polyurethane foam Natural heaters. These include slabs of sawdust or a mixture of clay and straw. Such materials are environmentally friendly, inexpensive, but their main disadvantage is the complexity of manufacturing. Linen fiber is also a natural insulation. It has antiseptic properties, preventing the formation of fungus and mold. It is easy to cut, mount, it does not cause allergies and is moisture resistant.
What is the best way to insulate walls?
The key to a quality repair is a well-thought-out work plan. Therefore, it is worth considering in advance how you will insulate the walls: from the inside or outside. Internal insulation is rarely used, because. because of it, the size of the rooms is significantly reduced. In addition, experts do not recommend insulating wooden houses in this way, because. moisture will penetrate into the wood, from the side of the street. Because of this, mold and fungus may appear inside the structure, and the tree itself will begin to rot. In addition, it is necessary to buy material that, in its properties, will match the tree. Linen fiber, soft fiberboard, basalt and fiberglass materials are suitable for this.
House insulation with mineral wool With the external method of thermal insulation, a uniform layer of insulator is formed for the free release of vapors. The insulation is less dense than wood, because of this, steam escapes through the ventilation gap. The external method of thermal insulation is an ideal option for those who want to insulate old houses made of timber, which have lost their “presentation” over time, after sheathing they will look like new. However, if the walls are not properly insulated, the wood will begin to deteriorate, and under a layer of exterior finish, you will not be able to control the condition of the wood.
Insulation of the walls of a frame house with mineral wool
Thermal insulation of a frame house begins with waterproofing. To do this, you can use glassine - a cheap but effective material. It is cut into strips and fastened with a stapler to the frame of the house, in increments of no more than 12 cm. Sheets of glassine are glued with an overlap of up to 10 cm to protect the insulation from condensation.
Advice! If the frame of the house will be sheathed with siding, then a distance of 30-50 mm should remain between it and the insulated facade so that moisture does not linger in the frame.
Then we lay a layer of insulation. Mineral wool is an excellent option for wall insulation. It does not cause allergic reactions, has low flammability and high thermal conductivity, such plates are easily cut with a construction knife. The laying process is simple, first we measure the distances between the racks and add 5 cm on each side for allowances. We cut the sheets of the desired size and lay them on the waterproofing. We close the joints between the frame and the insulation with a strip of mineral wool 3-4 cm wide.
Mineral wool We lay a layer of vapor barrier on top, for this we use foam phenol. It must be shot to the frame of the building using a construction stapler. Penophenol is laid in a horizontal direction, leaving 5 cm joints with the foil part outward. After that, we sheathe the walls of the house with edged boards or siding.
Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic
In order to fix the foam on the wall, first we install vertical canopies from the cord. Then glue is applied to the foam sheets, along the edges and at five points inside, and fixed on the wall. Thus, the entire insulation is laid. Next, you need to seal the gaps with mounting foam. For additional strength, we fix the sheets with plastic dowels.
Attention! Styrofoam does not absorb moisture, so additional insulation is not needed in this case.
Outside, the walls must be plastered, and before that, a reinforced mesh must be mounted. Putty will help protect the structure from the influence of external factors, but it should be applied in two layers. After the surface has dried, a finishing layer can be applied with decorative plaster.
Insulation of the walls of the frame house with foam plastic Insulation of the walls of the house from a bar
External insulation of houses made of timber should be made with slab materials, they are more rigid and do not shrink over time. If you prefer basalt or fiberglass insulation, then you need to choose the right thickness. If the house is made of 15 cm timber, then the thickness of the heat insulator is 10 cm, and if the timber is 20 cm, then you can take a thinner material - 5 cm.
To begin with, the surface of the house is coated with waterproof mastic. Then a vertical wooden frame is installed, which must be smeared with an antiseptic to prevent decay. Then basalt wool is attached to it with the help of self-tapping screws or dowels-umbrellas, for 1 sq.m of insulation - 4-6 fasteners. A diffusion membrane is laid on top as a waterproofing agent. We nail slats on top of the wooden frame, 5 cm thick, which will create a ventilation gap to remove moisture. Then we nail the profiles to the rails and install the siding, starting from the bottom, checking the horizontal laying with a level.
Scheme: home insulation Thus, the choice of insulation depends on your personal preferences. And to decide whether to do internal or external thermal insulation depends on how the finishing of the external walls will be done. Well, if you want even the most severe frosts not to bring you inconvenience, you can insulate the walls both inside and outside.
Warming the house with mineral wool: video
Insulation of a wooden house from the inside using, among other things, is a necessary set of measures in order to increase the level of comfort when living in it.
When insulating the roof, ceiling, attic and floor, in most cases one technology is used. In this case, thermal insulation can be provided with mineral wool or foam.
1 Insulation of the walls of a country house from the inside
Before you start warming the walls in a wooden house with your own hands, you should thoroughly clean all surfaces from dust and dirt. If the house is made using timber, then thermal insulation can be provided with foam or mineral wool.
Before this, the wooden surfaces of the country house, including the surface of the ceiling, the ribs of the timber, the walls of the attic, and the inner surface of the roof, must be subjected to detailed treatment using a special insect repellent emulsion. All insulation work of a country wooden house, brought inside with your own hands, consists of:
- Caulking of cracks in the walls of the attic, the surface of the ceiling and inside the roof, as with;
- Creation of a vapor barrier for the floor using timber;
- Lathing installation;
- Laying insulation and ensuring the sealing of the roof of a country house;
- Creation of a ventilation system between the walls of the attic;
- Internal finishing work on the preparation of beams, ceilings and roofs.
In addition, with the internal insulation of the walls of a wooden country house made of timber with your own hands, you need to carefully monitor the condition of the electrical wiring.
For example, if the walls of a country house are made using timber, and the technology involves wiring surface wiring on the walls of the attic, then it does not have to be separated from the wall surface.
To do this, it is enough to hide the wiring in special decorative casings. Inside them, the wiring will be safe.
After the walls are cleaned and the thermal insulation is prepared, it is necessary to caulk all the existing cracks.
Caulking is carried out not only on the surface of the walls of the attic, but also in the inner surface of the roof. It is known that in the case when a house is built using a beam, the floor, attic walls and the inner surface of the roof are re-caulked only a year after the building is put into operation. .
In the case when people immediately began to live in a house with a timber, drying the ceiling, floor and inner surface of the roof will be much slower.
Based on this, it makes sense to carry out the second caulking in at least 2-3 years. By the way, for caulking the walls of a house made of timber with your own hands, in most cases, jute fiber is used.
After that, you should proceed to the insulation of the walls with foam or minata. The inner surface of the ceiling and roof (in the attic) can also be insulated with foam plastic with your own hands.
2 Creating a vapor barrier
When insulating a wooden house with your own hands, an extremely important point is the creation of a vapor barrier inside the walls of the attic.
This is because the space inside the wooden base of the attic wall consists of those bars that are locked between two heat insulators.
In this case, the humidity level in the rooms will certainly increase, which will lead to the appearance of a "thermos effect" in the space from the ceiling to the roof.
This will lead to the fact that the entire structure will stop "breathing". Excess moisture is eliminated by ventilation.
The main thing is not to allow the tree to become damp, while slow decay of the entire structure may begin. To avoid this, before starting the installation of a heat insulator, the entire surface of the wall to be insulated must be equipped with a vapor-water-proofing film.
When carrying out installation work, as in the case of creating, associated with the crate, on load-bearing walls made using timber, an additional metal profile is installed.
This is especially true when finishing and vapor barrier will be made with the participation of moisture-resistant drywall.
After that, a strip of mineral wool is located inside, in the space between the bars. And its layers will join the base of the wall with the help of anchors equipped with enlarged round caps. A second layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation.
2.1 Creation of ventilation insulation of walls with foam plastic
A well-designed ventilation system should not have direct outdoor hoods in its communications.
The most suitable option is to combine the system into one circuit through the communications of the ceiling and the attic.
This is done through ventilation ducts. Any axial fan with a low or medium power rating can be used as a supercharger.
When the ventilation system is activated, using it in the winter season for half an hour, you can influence the parameter of optimal air humidity.
Inside, the second layer of vapor barrier film is attached to the bars with staples of a construction stapler. After the bar is installed, it should be sheathed with a clapboard made of wood.
This will give the room a certain degree of aesthetic appeal and insulate its contour. In addition, it is desirable to finish the room inside with a vertically located planken.
In addition, the walls can be insulated from the inside with foam. It makes sense to start installation work with the selection of suitable sheet sizes. They can be much thinner than with the behavior of external insulation work. Styrofoam is different:
- Simplicity and ease of installation;
- Low degree of thermal conductivity;
- High soundproofing characteristics;
- Long operational period.
When the internal walls of a wooden house are insulated with such material as penofol, convection and significant heat loss through the cracks will stop forever due to the fact that the caulking was produced poorly.
If the timber will have a relatively small thickness, then frost formation will not be observed in the corners and on the walls of the house in the winter season. When using foam, the space of the room from floor to ceiling will warm up quickly enough.
2.2 Floor insulation
In addition to a set of obvious advantages, in the event that the wooden floor is insulated, the level of heat loss in the house will significantly (up to 20 percent) decrease. That's an example.
The simplest and most effective method of floor insulation is associated with the use of mineral wool as a heater.
The technology of insulation using mineral wool is quite simple and not expensive. Particularly relevant is the insulation of the floor with mineral wool in the case when it is mounted directly on the surface of the soil.
The choice of a type of heat insulator directly correlates with the features of the arrangement of the floor. So, if the installed insulation will not be subjected to regular technical loads, it is recommended to opt for a mineral wool with a density of 50 kg / m3.
If the load on the slabs is carried out with a periodic frequency, then the limiting density of the min-slab can reach 160 kg / m3.
In this case, the material is not mounted with fasteners, but is laid freely. Another option for warming a wooden floor is associated with the use of foam.
First you will need to dismantle the old coating. After that, you need to take care of installing a waterproofing layer.
For this purpose, polyethylene can be used. After that, you can start applying penoplex, which is characterized by low hygroscopicity.
In some cases, it is possible to insulate the floor of a wooden house using foam boards. You can use for this one of its varieties - expanded polystyrene, which is a fairly relevant heat-insulating material.
The whole process begins with the fact that a gravel cushion is formed on the ground, the thickness of which can reach 30-40 centimeters. This layer is thoroughly compacted, after which cleaned sand is poured on top with a layer of 10 centimeters.
2.3 Ceiling insulation
Currently, despite the colossal abundance of insulating materials on the modern construction market, a large number of homeowners prefer to insulate the floors in a wooden house the old fashioned way - with sawdust.
This method is primarily characterized by its high environmental friendliness parameter and relative cheapness.
However, the work associated with the presented material is quite troublesome. In addition, this method requires some preliminary preparation.
For example, sawdust must be carefully treated with an antiseptic before starting insulation in order to avoid the appearance of mold.
Sawdust should also be sprayed with a flame retardant in order to improve their fire-resistant qualities, as with. Before backfilling, this material must undergo a long drying.
And in order to prevent rodents from climbing into the insulation, it must be diluted with fluffy lime. This mixture must be poured into the voids formed.
Moreover, its layer can reach a height of 20 centimeters. For floor insulation, modern materials such as mineral wool, polyplex, expanded clay and foil-type polyethylene foam can be used.
It is not bad to use such alternative heaters as glassine. It can cover foam boards.
Insulation of a wooden house from the inside - layout of materials
When choosing one or another material, special attention is paid to the financial capabilities of the owner of a wooden house. Based on this, you should decide on the price segment in which this or that heater is located.
2.4 How to insulate a wooden house from a bar? (video)
Does your wooden house require insulation? But you don't know how to do it right? Then the following information will definitely come in handy. It will be about. Although I would like to note that this method is not used as often as the external installation of insulation. Why is this method considered less popular?
Modern thermal insulation materials have high technical characteristics: light weight, flexibility, excellent ability to maintain the microclimate in the room.
There are several good reasons: firstly, the internal version of the insulation slightly reduces the living space; secondly, by performing the installation of a heater on your own, due to inexperience, you can get a violation of the microclimate due to high humidity. That is why it is best if the insulation of a wooden house from the inside occurs after consultation with specialists or professional builders. They will tell you how to insulate a wooden house inside competently, quickly and correctly.
Please note that the method of internal insulation is fundamentally different from the installation of insulation outside the house.
Causes of a cold snap in the house and the procedure for thermal insulation work
Usually houses built of wood are particularly comfortable: they are cool in summer and warm in winter. Most often, a cold snap in a wooden house can be caused by 2 main reasons. It:
- poor-quality or improperly mounted outer heat-insulating layer;
- the appearance of cracks in the walls of the house as a result of improper installation, or drying out.
After the reasons for the cold in a wooden house have become clear, you can proceed to familiarize yourself with the list of upcoming work aimed at its internal insulation.
This process will take place in several stages:
- First you need to prepare the surfaces.
- Then caulk all existing gaps.
- Arrange a layer of vapor barrier.
- Mount the crate.
- Lay a layer of thermal insulation.
- Arrange ventilation system.
- Next comes the finishing work.
And now about all these stages in more detail.
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Work on preparing the surface for insulation
The first stage of work on insulation involves the preliminary preparation of surfaces.
When working on laying heat-insulating material, it is necessary to protect the respiratory and vision organs from the ingress of fine dust and other substances.
To begin with, clean all surfaces of the walls from dirt and dust. And then you can proceed to the careful processing of wooden walls with the help of a special composition that protects the tree from insect reproduction. It is very good if the composition you have chosen will additionally perform a function that prevents the process of decay of wooden surfaces, and protect it not only from moisture, but also from the risk of fire.
And yet, at the same stage, it is necessary to take care of the safety of electrical wiring. If there is an option for its surface location, then it must be separated from the wall. Close up the gaps
Having done all the above procedures, you can proceed to the second stage of warming. It provides for the implementation of work to eliminate existing gaps. They need to be carefully sealed. Many people know that after a house is built from a bar, it is necessary to carry out an additional procedure to eliminate gaps, after about 1 year.
Naturally, this is done if the house remained uninhabited. During the operation of the premises, re-caulking of cracks can be carried out later, after about 3 years. What is the best way to fill gaps? Usually, a material such as jute fiber is used for these purposes.
From the tools you will need a chisel, preferably wide and rather thin. For especially large slots, a tape tow is used, which, before being placed in the gap, is twisted in the form of a roller. It is necessary to fill the slots until the material used can no longer be placed in them.
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Vapor barrier layer: nuances
Cork insulation retains heat very well and lends itself well to processing.
The presence of a vapor barrier in a wooden house is very important, since as a result of insulation, the wall is blocked between 2 heat-insulating layers. In this case, the degree of humidity in the room increases, since the walls arranged in this way are not capable of breathing. What to do in this case? A high-quality ventilation system saves, only with its help an effective fight against moisture is possible. If you do not allow dampness on the walls, then you will avoid the process of wood decay.
Simply put, you need to equip a high-quality vapor barrier. It is performed using a special film, which is placed on the surface of the wall with its rough side towards the wooden surface.
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Sheathing and thermal insulation layer
You can mount the crate layer on the walls using a wooden beam. It is also allowed to use a metal profile, but only in the case of subsequent sheathing with moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.
Scheme of wall insulation: 1 - outer skin (lining); 2 - polyethylene; 3 - OSB plate; 4, 6 - vapor barrier layer; 5 - thermal insulation layer (mineral wool); 7 - ventilation gap; 8 - inner lining.
In order for the corners of the crate to be even and correct, it is necessary to take care of the preparation of the corner posts in advance. To do this, make measurements of the height of the room and, in accordance with this value, cut the timber. The cross section of the beam used for these purposes should be 50 × 100 mm.
As a result of these manipulations, you should get a stand that resembles the letter “G” in its outline. Each of the corners of the room should be equipped with such a rack. When mounting, do not forget to check the verticality of their location.
Now you can proceed with the installation of vertical bars in increments of about 0.5 m. The bar should have a cross section of 50 × 50 mm. Do not forget that all wooden parts of the crate must be pre-treated with a protective compound against decay and fire.
After the crate is completed, you can proceed with the installation of the heat-insulating layer. For these purposes, a material such as mineral wool is well suited. After you have unrolled the roll of material, you need to cut it according to the desired height value. And the width of the heat-insulating layer should be 2 cm greater than the distance between the two vertical bars.
Having placed a strip of a heat-insulating layer between the bars, you need to fix it on the wall with anchors. Please note that anchors with large round caps are used. A second layer of insulation is fixed to the surface of the bars. Vapor barrier, or rather the film used for its device, will help to avoid dampness, and will also prevent small particles of mineral wool from getting into the air. The vapor barrier layer is fastened to the bars using a construction stapler.
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