Laying sewerage in the house by hand. Laying sewer pipes with your own hands in a private house. Do-it-yourself outdoor sewer installation

The elements of the external sewage system are subjected to significant pressure of the soil layer, moisture and frost, so the sewerage must be laid in accordance with all the rules. If you are going to lay a sewer yourself, you must carefully select building materials and take into account the features of installing the system in the ground.

Before laying the sewer, it is necessary to choose the right pipes. The materials used for the installation of internal and external sewerage are different. The yard (external) sewer pipeline combines outlets from a house or group of houses. Through it, wastewater is discharged into the external sewerage network in the presence of a centralized system. A septic tank is being built for sewerage in a private house. Until recently, the industry produced pipes for external sewage:

cast iron;
steel;
asbestos-cement;
ceramic.

Today, pipes for external laying made of plastic occupy a leading place in the building materials market due to their availability, ease and ease of installation. To understand which pipes are best used for outdoor sewage in your area, let's get acquainted with their advantages and disadvantages:

Polyethylene durable, flexible, which reduces the number of joints when laying, impact resistant.
Polypropylene is tougher than polyethylene, withstands high temperatures and pressures, so it is often used in the installation of hot water and heating pipelines. Manufacturers guarantee 50 years of service with proper operation.
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes of medium hardness are laid to a depth of 2 to 6 m. The maximum temperature of the drains should not exceed 40ºС. PVC pipe can crack even with a slight impact.

Plastic pipes are smooth inside, therefore they do not accumulate deposits, they are resistant to any aggressive substances found in domestic sewage and in the ground. For external sewerage in a private house, pipes with a diameter of 110 mm can be used. Pipes of larger diameter are used when draining wastewater from high-rise buildings or industrial facilities. Please note that the sewer pipe for outdoor installation is marked every 50-100 cm. It indicates the outer diameter, length, material name, manufacturer and allowable pressure.

For the installation of external sewage from plastic pipes, the necessary fittings are selected:

couplings;
knee;
stubs and more.

Required Tools

Strict requirements are imposed on the mutual arrangement of water and sewer pipes, since sewage can become a source of contamination of drinking water.

Laying water pipes in the same trench along with the sewer is prohibited.
If the installation involves the intersection of a water pipe and a sewer, then it must run at a right angle. The water pipeline must run at least 40 cm above the sewer.
The distance between the entry into the house of sewerage and water supply must be at least 1.5 m.
Wastewater must not be disposed of at potable water intake points.

After the pipes for the sewer are installed, it is necessary to check the correctness of the selected slope and the tightness of the system. To do this, a small amount of water is poured into the sewerage system and an inspection is carried out. Identified deficiencies are eliminated. The laying of sewer pipes in the ground ends with their entry into the septic tank. After that, the ditch falls asleep.

As a rule, the laid pipeline is covered with previously selected soil, while removing stones and crushing dense blocks. The best option is to fill the trench with sand. The tamping of the filled soil above the pipe begins after its layer of 30 cm. They fill up the trench with a mound, over time it will settle.

Laying sewer pipes in a private house can be done independently. Before performing work, a novice master needs to familiarize himself with the requirements of building and sanitary standards, as well as have the skills to work with metalwork tools. For the construction of external sewerage in the ground, the following tools are required:

angle grinder;
hacksaw for metal;
file;
roulette;
level;
shovel;

How to determine the slope of the pipe in the trench

To determine how to properly lay the sewer, you need to draw up a project that takes into account:

depth of soil freezing;
the depth of the entry of the sewer pipe into the septic tank or common pipe;
number of turns;
proximity to groundwater.

Proper laying of sewer pipes in a trench implies compliance with the slope. The slope of each linear meter of a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm must be at least 2 cm towards the drain. With a smaller slope, the water will go into the general sewer slowly, without the effect of self-cleaning. Since when drains are taken out of the house, their temperature is 15-20ºС, it is enough to deepen the exit from the building by 50 cm. If it is not possible to lay the pipe at such a depth, it must be well insulated. The pipeline is not buried in the case of a close occurrence of groundwater, in which case it is insulated along its entire length. The following materials can be used for underground sewage:

foamed polyethylene;
Styrofoam;
expanded clay.

The trench for pipes should be with a minimum number of turns, optimally - straight. If there are bends in the trench and the length of the system is more than 12 m, manholes are installed to eliminate blockages and breakdowns. The laying of external sewerage at the first stage involves excavation. For pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, they dig a trench 60 cm wide and 10-15 cm deep below that designed to create a shock-absorbing cushion.

The bottom of the trench is well leveled and rammed. Pour sand or fine gravel to the bottom. As a rule, the assembly of the sewer pipeline is carried out outside the trench due to the inconvenience of working in it. Then the pipes are carefully lowered into the trench and laid on a sand cushion according to the calculated slope. The slope angle is measured, if necessary, pour sand. Do not make the slope very large, the water should not drain in a raging stream. It is necessary to lay sewer pipes in a trench without sagging, under the guide cord.

Installation of the pipeline in the ground

The technology involves laying a sewer pipe in the ground with a socket against the flow of drains, that is, from the house. It is forbidden to shorten the pipe socket and fittings. Before laying the pipe, you must:

clean the internal cavity from possible contaminants;
check the presence of sealing rings;
prepare the necessary bends to change the direction of the pipe, if necessary.

Perhaps on your site there is a bathhouse or other building from which water must be diverted. The pipe from this room will cut into the main system through bends. Elbows are available with 15, 30, 45 or 90º elbows. At the junction, a manhole is made of a round or square shape. Its walls are usually laid out with burnt bricks. It is enough if the manhole is 70-80 cm wide. A revision is installed at the junction of pipes or a turn. To prevent groundwater and precipitation from entering the well, a clay castle is arranged at the bottom of the well and around it. To connect pipes and fittings, it is recommended to use:

technical vaseline;
silicone lubricants;
liquid soap.

These aids promote tightness and simplify assembly. The assembly technology is simple: the smooth end of the pipe is lubricated for the length of the joint and inserted into the socket with a seal. During installation, preference is given to double-breasted sealing rings (with two protrusions).

Connecting pipes from different materials

In some cases, when installing the system, it becomes necessary to join pipes made of different materials. This may be a connection of an old cast-iron riser with a plastic external sewer, or vice versa. In any case, cast iron and plastic will be combined. The connection is made using a rubber cuff, which can be purchased at a plumbing store. The process technology is as follows:

The socket is cleaned from dirt, rust, paint and dried.
Sanitary silicone is applied to the inner surface of the socket so that it fills the existing recesses.
Silicone is applied to the outside of the cuff seal.
The cuff is inserted into the socket.
A plastic tube is inserted into the cuff.

If the cast-iron socket is damaged, it is cut off with a grinder. Connection operations are almost identical, except that the cuff is put on a cast-iron pipe. After these operations, it is necessary to allow the silicone to dry for 2 hours. Then proceed to the system checks.

Treatment plants

In some cases, laying sewer pipes at the right angle is not possible due to the terrain. Then a pump is installed and sewage removal is carried out forcibly. In addition, the problem of difficult terrain can be solved with the help of a modern deep biological treatment plant (tanker), since it can be installed 2 m from the house. Aerobic bacteria process fecal matter, converting it into sludge, which is removed 1-2 times a year and used as fertilizer. Waste water is 98% purified. The indisputable advantages of the tanker are:

the processing process is ten times faster than in a septic tank;
the purified liquid can be collected in a tank and used to water plants;
the installation takes up little space and the soil under it does not become infected.

The disadvantage of the biological installation lies in its high cost and the need for constant monitoring of the living conditions of bacteria.

The location of the treatment plant is determined when planning the entire site. In addition to the sewage tanker in a private house, you can use the following disposal devices:

Cesspool with filter bottom. The distance from the cesspool to the water intake must be at least 30 m. Arrange it so that the contents can be pumped out with sewage equipment. This type of drain collection is suitable where people do not live permanently, for example, in summer cottages.
A cesspool without drainage is a sealed effluent reservoir. The disadvantage of an airtight pit is that you often have to turn to the services of sewers.
The septic tank consists of 2-3 chambers interconnected, each of which has a drainage pad so that water goes into the ground. The cleaning capacity of the septic tank is 60-70%. A septic tank is built 1 m above the depth of groundwater, at a distance of 25 m from the water intake and at least 5 m from the house to avoid soil erosion.

Depending on the number of people living in the house and the daily water consumption, each site owner chooses which local device suits him best.

If the above conditions are met, the system will work efficiently without harming the environment. A well-designed and built sewage system will not bring you unnecessary worries and will be the key to your peace of mind.

From this article you can learn how to create a sewer in a private house with your own hands: a diagram on the basis of which the construction of a waste system is carried out, its phased production with useful tips and recommendations from specialists, information on laying a pipeline and related procedures. An overview of popular types of sewage, their features, specificity for suburban areas and prices for them.

Unlike city apartments, not every private or country house has all communication systems. Therefore, the owners of such housing are forced to carry out their laying on their own in order to provide elementary conditions of comfort. If the organization of this system, along with water supply, was originally included in the design of the building, then there should not be any problems with their construction. It is much more difficult if you have to include a sewerage system in a private house that is already ready.

The simplest option for implementing such an idea would be a project in which the sink and shower are installed inside the building, and the toilet is located outside of it on the street. In this case, you can do without complex work on laying the pipeline, as well as the installation of treatment facilities. This scheme involves the removal of the sewer from the house and its supply to the sewer pit.

The second option is more difficult, since the toilet, shower and sink in this case are located inside the building. If incorrect calculations are made or the system construction technology is violated, there is a risk of contamination of the site and water located nearby with waste. In such situations, a septic tank is indispensable.

Useful advice! Experts recommend placing toilets, bathrooms and kitchens nearby. Due to this, it is possible to organize a single collector, thanks to which the waste liquid will be sent to a sewer or septic tank.

How to choose a sewerage scheme for a private one-story house

To choose the right sewerage system and the scheme for its creation, you need to consider the following factors:

whether the house serves for permanent or temporary residence;
groundwater level;
the number of people living in the house on a permanent basis;
daily water consumption, taking into account the needs of residents and household appliances such as a dishwasher or washing machine;
climatic conditions;
the area of the suburban area to determine the available areas for the installation of a cleaning system;
type of soil and features of its structure;
normative instructions SNIP.

Conditionally existing sewage systems can be divided into two categories: storage and purification. A more detailed classification will allow you to choose the type of system that meets the operating conditions, since even the same type of circuits can have significant differences.

A pit latrine is most often used for sites with a house used for temporary residence, for example, only a week a month. This does not consume a lot of water. An important condition is the groundwater level not higher than 1 m from the bottom of the pit. Otherwise, water pollution by sewage is inevitable. This type of sewer system is rarely used in modern construction.

Storage tanks are used for the construction of sewers in a private house with a high level of groundwater. Since the tank is sealed, there is no risk of soil contamination with waste. However, this system has drawbacks. Firstly, the additional costs associated with the need to call a sewage machine for periodic pumping of wastewater. Secondly, the scheme will have to provide a place for the entry of this equipment to the site and its placement.

Types of sewers in a private house with their own hands: photos and features of septic tanks

Single-chamber septic tanks are the simplest soil purification systems. Their principle of operation is in many ways similar to cesspools. The scheme is suitable if the groundwater is not high. If the house is used for permanent residence and there is an active use of water, then it is not recommended to use the scheme of a single-chamber septic tank for the construction of a sewerage system.

Two-chamber septic tanks are also dependent on the groundwater level. It is desirable that they lie at least 1 m below the day of the system.

Useful advice! In order for the sewerage in the form of a two-chamber septic tank to function normally, it is recommended to change the sand and gravel that was used during construction every 5 years.

Septic tanks with biological filters are considered the best sewage systems in a private house where people live on a permanent basis. For waste processing, special microorganisms are used, which result in there are no restrictions on such sewage, only a connection to the electrical network is required.

A septic tank with a filtration field performs two cleaning methods at once - soil and biological. The tank is divided into two sections. The installation of such a sewer is possible only if the groundwater runs at a depth of at least 2.5-3 m. Construction will require a significant amount of free space. Moreover, to neighboring buildings, as well as to the nearest sources of water, there should not be less than 30 m.

Aerotanks or systems with forced air supply are very expensive, but due to their advantages, they justify the money spent. Such structures are not limited in terms of installation, however, they require a power source and the constant presence of people. The minimum sewerage price for a private house with installation in this case is approximately $4,000.

How to make a sewer in a private house on your own

The construction of any communications should be carried out according to a previously developed and approved project. Such a project usually has a scheme for creating internal and external sewerage wiring in a private house with your own hands.

The internal system includes:

risers;
highways;
areas for connecting plumbing fixtures.

Plumbing fixtures include items such as a non-tray shower stall, bathtub, sink, and toilet. The internal system ends with an outlet pipe. This element is placed at the level of the foundation part of the building.

When arranging an external sewage system in a country house with your own hands, the diagram of this section of the system must contain an external pipeline that provides drainage from the building, as well as storage or treatment equipment. When the project is ready and approved, it is possible to determine the optimal diameter and size of the pipes, as well as the amount of material required for the job. At the same stage, a sewer collector is selected.

Useful advice! During the construction process, it is better to rely on the requirements of regulatory documents. SNIPs will help determine how to properly sewer in a private house, as well as eliminate errors in the design process.

Choosing a place for installing a septic tank for sewerage of a country house with your own hands

When arranging sewerage, the choice of a place for installing a septic tank is extremely important. Its placement is influenced by the following factors:

depth of groundwater;
relief features of the site (since the movement of water within the system is carried out by gravity, the slope of the territory should be taken into account);
the level of soil freezing in winter;
placement of sources of drinking water;
soil structure.

Sandy soils have a loose texture. Due to this, the liquid can easily pass through the soil, so there is a possibility of contamination of groundwater with waste.

When installing a septic structure, it is important to adhere to certain requirements:

The distance from the residential building is at least 5 m.
Distance from the source of drinking water (well) - 30 m.
Distance from green spaces - at least 3 m.

In addition, it will be necessary to equip an area for the arrival of sewage equipment.

Arrangement of internal sewerage for a private house: how to properly organize work

On the scheme of internal sewage in a private house with your own hands, you need to mark all points of the system. First, the installation of the central riser is carried out. The optimum pipe diameter is 110 mm. In order for gases to leave the room without hindrance, a riser should be installed so that its upper part is led to the attic or protrudes above the level of the roof of the building. The central riser should be located at a distance of at least 4 m from the windows of the building.

Next, a horizontal pipeline is laid. The installation of inspection hatches will allow you to monitor the state of the system and perform its cleaning in a timely manner. These elements must be placed at the lowest point of the sewer and above the toilet.

For each plumbing fixture, it is necessary to provide for the presence of a siphon with a water seal. This will prevent the entry of unpleasant odors into the room. In the process of laying sewers in a private house with your own hands, it is recommended to avoid turns at an angle of 90 °. These elements complicate the movement of effluents.

The pipe coming from the toilet is connected directly to the system. To do this, it is better to use a pipe with a minimum diameter of 100 mm. For the bathtub and sink, you can take a smaller pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. The line should be placed at an angle that will ensure the movement of fluid. In the foundation, you also need to make a blank for a hole to bring the system out. A non-return valve must be installed on this pipe, which will prevent sewage from entering back into the system.

Useful advice! If 90° turns cannot be avoided, the pipe bend area can be made from two 45° corners.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation technique in a private house: preparation for installation of a septic tank

The design is a two-chamber collector, the sections of which are articulated with each other using an overflow pipe. To begin with, a pit is pulled out with a depth of 3 m of the required volume, taking into account the number of permanent residents in the house. It can be formed manually or using special equipment (excavator). At the bottom, it is necessary to organize a sand cushion up to 15 cm thick.

Then a formwork structure is formed on the basis of chipboard or boards. It must be reinforced with a reinforcing belt, which is made of metal rods. Bandaging is carried out using steel wire. After that, you need to make two holes in the formwork and install pipe trims in them. Thus, the entry zones of the system main and the overflow pipe connecting the sections will be obtained.

The formwork structure is concreted. To distribute the solution evenly, you need to use a vibrating tool. The septic tank must be monolithic, so it is poured once.

Related article:

Overview of the available methods of treatment of domestic waste. The principle of operation of various sewer devices.

Installation instructions for external sewerage: arrangement of a two-chamber septic tank

The bottom of the first compartment must be formed by pouring concrete. The result should be a sealed section that will be used as a sump. Here, the separation of solid large fractions will take place, which will settle at the bottom. Clarified partially purified water will accumulate from above. Due to the connecting pipe, it will fall into the adjacent compartment.

Useful advice! The use of aerobic bacteria will enhance the decomposition of solid particles.

There is no need to organize the bottom in the second compartment. The section is made on the basis of monolithic walls. Suitable and stacked one on top of the other. The recommended diameter size is 1-1.5 m. A thick cushion of sedimentary rocks is formed at the bottom of the compartment, which acts as a filter for drains. For these purposes, pebbles, crushed stone, gravel are suitable.

An overflow pipe is installed between the two compartments. The angle of inclination is 30 mm per linear meter. This pipe is placed at the level of the upper third. Most often, the owners of summer cottages, when installing sewerage in a private house, use a two-section design, although it is possible to equip a septic tank even with 4 compartments, which will provide the best level of cleaning.

Overlapping for a septic tank can also be made by hand. For this, formwork and concrete are used. Alternatively, reinforced concrete slabs can be used. It is obligatory to install an inspection hatch that allows you to control the exhaust and filling of sections. Then the pit must be covered with soil or sand. The sump should be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Organization of sewerage wiring for a private house: how to properly lay a pipeline

From the area where the sewer pipe leaves the foundation and to the septic tank, you need to lay a highway. The pipeline should be located under a slope, due to which the flow of waste water will be ensured. The larger the diameter of the pipes used, the smaller the angle of inclination will be required for the full operation of the line. The average is 2°.

In the diagram, the depth of laying the sewer in a private house with your own hands should be below the freezing level of the soil in winter. The average is 1 m. In warm regions, there is no need for large pipe penetration, 0.7 m will be enough. If the house is located in a cold region, the depth indicator should be increased to 1.5 m. pillow, tamping it well. This procedure will allow you to securely fix the pipes and prevent the destruction of the line during seasonal soil mixing.

The most optimal for a summer cottage will be a scheme for laying a direct highway from the house to the collector. If necessary, you can rotate. In this place, you can install a manhole. Pipes made of cast iron or plastic, designed for external sewage, are suitable for work. The recommended diameter is 110 mm. All joints must be sealed. The trench with the laid pipeline is first filled with sand and then with soil.

Useful advice! If the trenches for the installation of the pipeline are shallow, the line must be additionally insulated using thermal insulation materials.

Features of the construction of country sewage without pumping

Systems that do not require pumping, as a rule, are represented by designs of two- or three-chamber septic tanks operating simultaneously. If the system has two tanks, at least ¾ of the structure is allocated to the sump, for three-chamber - half. In the first section, heavy fractions settle. As it fills, the liquid overflows into the second compartment, where light particles are separated. In the third section, the water is fully cleaned of wastewater and fed into a drainage well or filtration fields. It is important that the two containers are airtight.

This type of system also needs to be pumped out, but not as often as with a conventional septic tank. This is done using a drainage or fecal sewage pump, the price of which depends on the manufacturer and power and varies between 2700-25000 rubles. This equipment is used to remove sediment that accumulates in the sump.

The frequency of the procedure is affected by the composition of the wastewater and the size of the tank. The structure must be cleaned when the height of the silt reaches the level of the overflow. For six months, about 60-90 liters of sediment accumulate in the tank. Based on this data and the volume of the container, you can approximately find out how much time between cleanings.

To find out the required volume of a septic tank without pumping out, you should multiply the daily rate of water consumption per person (200 l) by the number of residents and add another 20% to the result. If the groundwater level is high, it is recommended to make a concrete screed at the bottom of the pit or lay a concrete slab for reinforcement.

A recess in the ground breaks out taking into account the size of the septic tank. To this is added a minimum of 20 cm on each side, and even more is better. Pipes are laid on a sand cushion in a similar way with a slope to a depth of 0.7-0.8 m.

Sewerage construction in a private house: installation price

The price of installing a turnkey septic tank is formed taking into account:

features of earthworks, for example, the formation of a pit or a supply trench;
the need to build a system that performs soil post-treatment;
the cost of laying sewers per meter in the ground (depending on the type of pipes and the length of the main, the average price is 35-65 rubles per 1 m);
installation of the necessary equipment;
the need to build an additional sewage disposal system, etc.

Most often, if turnkey installation of septic equipment is performed, 2-3 people are involved in the work. Since the installation of the structure is carried out manually, there is no need to use specialized heavy equipment. As a result, the landscape remains untouched, and the owner of the site has a chance to save a lot. It is impossible to do without changes on the site if sewerage is laid from the ground. The price per meter of work performed is included in the total cost of turnkey work.

Useful advice! To prevent the elements of the system from moving during installation and from floating up, it is recommended to perform the procedure for concreting the body.

If there are soils in the summer cottage that do not have filtering properties, like sand, installation work will increase significantly in price. These soils include loam and clay. To ensure normal conditions for the full functioning of the system on the territory, it will be necessary to form a bulk-type filtration field.

The price of sewerage installation in a turnkey private house:

Septic tank model	price, rub.
Tank	from 18700
Cedar	from 79900
Uni-Sep	from 56000
TopBio	from 111700

Do-it-yourself sewerage arrangement in the bath: a step-by-step guide

As in the case of a residential building, the sewerage of a bath includes an internal and external system. Even if the building has a dry steam room, it will be necessary to drain the liquid from the shower. The water collection system depends on how the floors are installed. The sewerage scheme is entered into the bath project at the development stage and is laid at the initial stage of construction even before the floors are equipped.

If it is planned to install wooden floors from boards, then the elements can be laid closely or with small gaps. If the coating is installed tightly, the floors are formed with a slope from one wall to another. Next, you should find the lowest point near the wall and leave a gap in this place, where the gutter will be subsequently installed (also with a slope). At the lowest point of its placement, a connection is made to the sewer outlet pipe.

Important! If the bath sewerage scheme involves the collection of liquid from several rooms, including from the toilet, it is imperative to install a riser with ventilation.

If the wooden flooring will be made with slots, small gaps (5 mm) should be left between the boards. A concrete base is made under the floor with a slope towards the central part of the room. A gutter and a sewer pipe will be installed in this area. Instead of a concrete base, metal pallets can be laid on top of the insulated floor under a wooden deck. If the floors are self-leveling or tiled, a water intake ladder is installed at the lower point of the slope, which drains the drains into the pipe.

A step-by-step guide to building a sewer in a bath with your own hands

For the installation of sewer pipes, it is necessary to form ditches with a slope of 2 cm per 1 m. Their depth is 50-60 cm. A pillow should be made at the bottom of these trenches. To do this, a layer of sand 15 cm thick is poured and carefully compacted. In this case, do not forget about the slope.

Next, the installation of the sewer line is carried out. Polypropylene pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are laid in trenches. If necessary, a sewer riser is equipped. It must be fixed to the wall with clamps. Be sure to organize ventilation. When the system is ready, the flooring is installed using one of the previously discussed methods.

Upon completion of all work, the ladders and gratings provided for by the project are connected to the system at the designated locations. In the area where the water intake is connected to the outlet pipe, it is desirable to install a siphon. It will prevent the penetration of odors from the sewer back into the room. Most often, ladders are equipped with built-in water seals.

On sale you can find gutters made of asbestos cement, plastic or cast iron. It is not recommended to use products made of wood and steel, because. they quickly break down under the influence of moisture. The minimum allowable gutter diameter is 5 cm. If the project provides for the presence of a toilet bowl or other sanitary equipment, it is installed and connected. This completes the work on the organization of internal sewage. The external system is carried out in the manner described earlier and may be a septic tank or a drainage well.

Sewerage construction in a private house: ventilation scheme in the bath

Air exchange in the bath can be organized in various ways. Each of them has its own characteristics and advantages. Having studied the specifics of each method, you can choose the best option for a bath.

The first method involves creating an opening designed to supply fresh air. It should be placed behind the stove-heater at a height of 0.5 m from the floor level. The exhaust air will be discharged through the opening on the opposite side. It must be placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor. To increase the movement of air flow at the outlet, you need to install an exhaust fan. All openings are closed with gratings.

Useful advice! The lower the ventilation hood is placed, the more intensive the air exchange process will be. It is important not to overdo it in this regard with the steam room, otherwise there will be a significant heat leak.

The second method involves placing both holes in the same plane. In this case, the work will affect the wall opposite to the one where the furnace is located. The inlet duct is placed at a height of 0.3 m from the floor level, at a similar distance from the ceiling, an exhaust hole must be made and a fan installed in it. Channels are closed with gratings.

The third method is suitable for flooring, where the boards are laid with gaps to drain liquid. The inlet is made at a height of 0.3 m from the floor on the wall behind the stove. In this case, installation of an outlet duct is not required, since the exhaust air will exit through the gaps between the boards.

Do-it-yourself arrangement of autonomous sewage in a private house: videos and recommendations

As a material for the manufacture of autonomous sewers, polypropylene is used, which is characterized by low weight, environmental friendliness, strength and high thermal conductivity. Wastewater treatment is carried out by certain types of bacteria that feed on organic waste. Access to oxygen is a prerequisite for the life of these microorganisms. The price of an autonomous sewage system in a private house is much higher than the cost of arranging a conventional septic tank.

This is due to the numerous advantages of autonomous type systems:

high level of wastewater treatment;
unique aeration cleaning system;
no maintenance costs;
no need for additional acquisition of microorganisms;
compact dimensions;
no need to call a sewage truck;
the possibility of installation at a high level of groundwater;
lack of odors;
long service life (up to 50 cm).

How much will it cost to build a sewer in a private house: turnkey price

The possibilities of autonomous sewers Unilos Astra 5 and Topas 5 are considered the most optimal for summer cottages. These designs are reliable, they are able to provide comfortable living and the necessary amenities for residents of a country house. These manufacturers offer other equally effective models.

The average price of autonomous sewers Topas:

Name	price, rub.
Topas 4	77310
Topas-S 5	80730
Topas 5	89010
Topas-S 8	98730
Topas-S 9	103050
Topas 8	107750
Topas 15	165510
Topaero 3	212300
Topaero 6	341700
Topaero 7	410300

Note! Features of the autonomous sewage system Astra, Topas, Biotank and other models listed in the tables allow for deep biological cleaning of drains. This figure in some cases reaches 98%. As a result of treatment, wastewater turns into clear water with a small admixture of silt.

The average price of autonomous sewers Unilos:

Name	price, rub.
Astra 3	66300
Astra 4	69700
Astra 5	76670
Astra 8	94350
Astra 10	115950
Scarab 3	190000
Scarab 5	253000
Scarab 8	308800
Scarab 10	573000
Scarab 30	771100

The tables show the standard cost of the system. The final price for the installation of an autonomous sewage system on a turnkey basis is formed taking into account the prices for laying an external pipeline and other points affecting earthworks and installation work in general.

The average price of autonomous tank type sewers:

Name	price, rub.
Biotank 3	40000
Biotank 4	48500
Biotank 5	56000
Biotank 6	62800
Biotank 8	70150

Tips for installing an autonomous sewer at their summer cottage

As in any other system, it is recommended to install the pipeline at an angle from the house towards the purification tank. The optimal angle is between 2 and 5° per meter. If you do not adhere to this requirement, the full discharge of wastewater by an autonomous sewer for a summer residence will become impossible.

During the laying of the highway, care should be taken to securely fix its elements. To eliminate the risk of pipe deformation and displacement during soil subsidence, the soil at the bottom of the trenches must be carefully compacted. If you fill the bottom with concrete, you get a more reliable fixed base. During the installation of pipes, it is desirable to adhere to a straight path.

Be sure to check the joints for tightness. Liquid clay is usually used for docking. It is allowed to use specialized tools recommended by the pipe manufacturer. If a line is being installed on the basis of elements with a diameter of 50 mm, the maximum allowable length of the straight sections of the system is 5 m. When using products with a diameter of 100 mm, this figure is 8 m maximum.

Important! The waste storage tank cannot be placed at a distance of less than 10 m from residential buildings.

Do-it-yourself construction of an autonomous sewer in a private house

First, the optimal place for the installation of a wastewater tank is selected. To do this, you can use the data recommended for the installation of a conventional septic tank, then you can start earthworks. A pit breaks out under the installation of the container. The dimensions of the recess in the ground must correspond to the dimensions of the tank with an allowance of 30 cm on each side.

The technology allows the installation of a biological filter and a septic tank in one pit. Earthworks also involve the formation of trenches for laying the pipeline. In this case, a slope of 2 cm must be observed for every 0.1 m of the line. The bottom of the pit is rammed and filled with concrete. After the site is fully dry and hardened, you can install the plastic container. To fix the structure on the base, it is desirable to use cables.

At the next stage, an autonomous sewage system of a country house is assembled and a pipeline is supplied in accordance with a pre-planned scheme. At the same time, the biological filter blocks are filled. For these purposes, an absorbent with a bioactive effect and expanded clay can be used.

After the entire system is installed, the recesses in the soil are filled back. For this, earth and sand are used, the use of a cement-sand mixture is allowed. All this is poured in layers and carefully compacted. At the same time, water is poured into the septic tank. The liquid level should be slightly above the top mark of the bulk material. The pipeline is covered with sand and then earth. In this case, there is no need to compact the backfill. The system can be connected only after the sewerage has been checked.

In view of the foregoing, self-assembly of stand-alone equipment is not so difficult. The use of ready-made structures eliminates any inconvenience associated with the removal and treatment of wastewater. By adhering to the manufacturer's instructions, any owner of a summer cottage can install an efficient and trouble-free system with a long service life with their own hands. If another system is being installed, the ideal result is only possible if the calculations are carried out correctly.

Sewerage construction technology in a private house: video instruction

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When arranging a country house, many communications are often installed by hand. There is nothing surprising in this: the process itself is quite simple, and the execution of work does not require special skills. Of course, there are certain rules that must be observed: for example, it is worth carefully designing the structure and making sure that one communication line does not interfere with another. About how to install a sewer in a private house, and will be discussed in this article.

If we talk about sewerage, then the first thing you need to know is that this system consists of internal and external parts, and the arrangement of each of them is carried out in its own way. External sewerage is installed somewhat easier, since the work is carried out in open space. From the inside, everything is a little more complicated, so installing a sewer in a private house with your own hands begins with it.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

The first step in building a structure is planning. You need to know exactly how much plumbing will be installed, and where it will be installed. When performing work, be sure to have a pre-drawn project at hand. One rule can be immediately deduced: when installing a riser, it must be placed as close as possible to the wall under which the sewer outlet is equipped. Naturally, this wall should be located on the side where the sewer well is located, which, in turn, is arranged as low as possible so that it is easier for drains to move there on their own (read also: "").

The riser is usually made of 110 mm plastic pipe. All outlet pipes are connected to the riser, through which drains are collected from plumbing fixtures. To connect the toilet to the system, straight sections made of 100 mm pipes are used, and other devices can be connected through various fittings using pipes with a diameter of 32 to 80 mm.

Do-it-yourself sewerage installation in a private house is usually performed parallel to the water line. Such installation of sewerage is especially convenient when communications will be installed in the walls. To do this, it is necessary to prepare the strobes intended for laying pipes. There is one caveat here: the plumbing system works under some pressure, so the slope of the pipes is not a necessary condition.

The sewer system requires a slope, otherwise it simply will not work: the structure operates on a gravity basis, so the slope must be observed in all its sections, regardless of the length of the pipelines or the location of the devices. According to regulatory documents, the average slope should be within 2-3 cm per 1 meter of the pipeline. When creating a slope, you need to carefully monitor compliance with this value, otherwise the system will begin to create problems very soon.

To connect plastic pipes, it is necessary to use fittings from the same material: such a connection will provide the structure with sufficient strength and tightness. With hidden sewerage, it is necessary not only to lay pipes in prepared strobes, but also to fix them with clamps for reliability. The strobes themselves are subsequently masked with a special solution.

Do-it-yourself outdoor sewer installation

The elements of the external sewer system include all parts that are equipped outside the building.

Installing sewerage in a private house requires attention, especially in such moments:

The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire line should be made as straight as possible.
If plastic pipes were used in the house, then the external sewage system should also be made of this material.

Installation of external sewerage also has some features that you will have to face:

Large volume of earthworks. It is necessary to lay the external sewage system, taking into account the level of soil freezing: the pipes must be below this level so that negative temperatures do not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
Creation of a sewer well. Before you create a sewer in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the amount of drains, which is primarily affected by the number of residents. The large estimated volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be large enough.
System type selection. The quality of the collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the convenience of operating the sewer system, will be directly affected by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, a conventional cesspool has an extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful biological treatment plant will be expensive, but its performance will be at the highest level. See also: "".

In any case, external sewerage imposes special requirements on its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the design to be as efficient as possible.

earthworks

Earthwork is one of the first stages of sewerage construction. You can perform these works both independently and with the involvement of additional forces (teams of workers or special equipment). Naturally, before work, it is necessary to mark the area along which the trench will pass.

In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the bottom of the trench: when using equipment, the required value will not be reached, so you will have to level everything yourself. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.

Arrangement of a sewer well

This design can be made from different materials:

brickwork;
metal tank;
reinforced concrete rings;
plastic septic tank.

Each system has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

It is worth saying a few words about each of them:

Devices made of bricks or blocks are pretty good elements of the sewer system, but their arrangement takes a lot of time. With little experience in construction work, it may take several days to create a brick well.
The metal structure compares favorably with the brick one by ease of installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device in this case will be much less: the metal is easily corroded, and very soon the device will become faulty.
Reinforced concrete wells are quite common structures, since strength, reliability and durability can be distinguished among their advantages. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is a difficult installation: finished rings have a considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them with your own hands.
Plastic septic tanks can also be attributed to reliable and high-quality structures: they are durable and much lighter than reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of construction is somewhat higher than the cost of previous devices, but the money spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs for arranging, for example, concrete wells, then the price will almost be equal. See also: "".

How to install sewer pipes

The installation of the pipeline usually starts from the house - it is easier to monitor compliance with the slope of the structure. When laying pipes, they must be connected with couplings. When connecting several drain systems into one, it is necessary to use tees or other appropriate fittings.

The last stage of laying the pipeline is connecting the line to the sewer well. For this, couplings are also used that connect all pipes of the external sewage system to each other and to the internal sewage system. When the pipes are mounted and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and the work is completed.

The subtleties of arranging sewerage

There are some nuances that you have to deal with when installing a sewer:

Too deep level of soil freezing. With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deep, and the amount of work will increase very much. You can avoid this phenomenon with the help of thermal insulation.

It can be done in two ways:

with the help of heat-insulating materials that do this job well;
with the help of electric heating, implemented by a cable stretched along the entire sewer line.

The need to maintain slope. It is imperative to observe the slope, and its value must be within the specified limits. The reason for this sounds like this: too little slope will not allow waste to move through the system, and the system will soon become clogged, and if the slope exceeds the standard, the water will move too quickly and will not be able to wash the pipes from the inside, which also leads to blockages.

Design choice. The selection of a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewerage more understandable, it is worth reading an article about the types of sewer systems.

Conclusion

Installation of sewerage in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any special problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for work, then the design will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and with high quality.

Modern man is spoiled by civilization. Sewerage, which not so long ago seemed to be a component of elite housing, today has become an integral part of almost any apartment. Those who live in multi-storey comfortable houses do not have to think about the design and installation of this system, but the owners of individual buildings have a harder time. Domestic sewerage is a rather complex system. The efficiency and reliability of its operation directly depends on the design and installation of the structure. How to avoid errors in the process of arranging the system? Let's figure it out.

Where to start construction work?

Arrangement of internal sewerage involves the installation of risers of fan pipes and the installation of piping in the premises. It is best to take care of the drainage system at the design stage of the building and place all the "wet" rooms at a minimum distance from each other. Ideally, make them adjacent, so you can significantly simplify the arrangement of internal sewage. It is also important to correctly determine the location of the collector pipe, to which all pipelines will converge.

Now you can begin to develop a scheme for future sewage:

Observing the scale, we draw a plan of the building.
We mark on it the location of the risers.
We put on the diagram all the plumbing fixtures that are planned to be installed. We note for ourselves the features of their connection.
We draw pipelines that will connect risers and plumbing equipment. We mark all the necessary turns, joints, etc. Be sure to indicate the connecting elements that will be required for the installation of tees, bends, etc.
We determine the parameters of the riser and the fan pipe.

In accordance with the scheme, the installation of the system will subsequently be carried out, in addition, it will help determine the amount of materials needed.

Internal sewerage includes risers of fan pipes and piping in all internal premises of a private house

Now you need to choose a pipe laying method. There can be two of them: hidden and open. In the second case, the trunk is mounted on a wall or floor. The first is more time-consuming and involves the execution of strobes in structures into which pipes are subsequently laid. When choosing this option, experts advise laying internal water and sewer pipes in one gate. Plumbing is on top and sewage is on the bottom. This is very convenient, as it reduces the time required for installation work, and their volume. In addition, much less material is required to seal the strobe.

Here is an example of such work:

Important points when designing a system

When designing internal sewerage, the following aspects must be taken into account:

For a gravity system, and internal sewage is such, it must be maintained. For pipes with a diameter of 50 to 80 mm, it is 2 cm per meter; for products with a diameter of 80-100 mm, the slope increases to 3 cm per meter.
The drain pipes of the dishwasher and kitchen sink must be equipped with grease traps.
The toilet must be connected to the riser only by a pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
For a house with several floors, the diameter of the riser should be 100-110 mm. It must be equipped with hatches for cleaning.
It is best if the house has only one sewer riser. All branches of the internal sewer system will approach it.
The location of the outlet of the pipeline is determined by the location of the collection well, which must be installed at the lowest point of the site. The outlet is located in the wall closest to the well.

By following these simple rules, you will avoid many problems.

Internal sewerage can be laid in a hidden or open way. The first option involves the implementation of strobes in which pipes are laid, which makes it quite difficult to arrange. The second one is much simpler in execution, but less aesthetically pleasing.

Choosing parts for the pipeline

First of all, we determine the material from which the elements are made.

Option #1 - cast iron pipes

Some time ago, there was simply no alternative to such details. Their advantages include durability, such pipes serve more than half a century, high strength and fire resistance. At the same time, cast iron is not sufficiently resistant to impact point loads, from which it must be protected as far as possible. The disadvantages of the material include a very large weight, high cost and difficult installation. In addition, the inner surface of such pipes is rough, which contributes to the deposition of layers, which, after time, can completely block the path of sewage.

Option #2 - polypropylene products

The advantages of such elements are resistance to all types of corrosion and solutions of salts, alkalis and acids, durability, high heat resistance. The latter quality allows the parts to easily endure both low and high temperatures, which makes it possible to lay them in almost any conditions.

Another advantage is increased fire resistance. Polypropylene is able to withstand the effects of fire for quite a long time and does not emit toxic substances. Attractive and affordable price. Some difficulty is the installation of parts, which requires special equipment.

The most popular are plastic pipes for sewerage. They are lightweight, easy to install and have a smooth inner surface that prevents build-up on the inner walls of parts.

Option #3 - PVC parts

They can be made from non-plasticized or plasticized PVC. The characteristics of products made from these materials are similar. The advantages of PVC pipes include a low coefficient of thermal expansion, which allows products not to increase or sag when heated, as well as resistance to UV radiation. In addition, a very large assortment of shaped elements is produced, which makes it possible to assemble a pipeline of any configuration.

The disadvantages of products include fragility at low temperatures, low resistance to fire and the release of toxic substances during combustion, as well as sensitivity to certain chemicals.

General installation rules

Internal sewerage in a private house is equipped with a number of rules:

Riser elements with a 90° turn are assembled from two plastic elbows rotated by 45°. If a cast-iron pipeline is installed, two 135 ° bends are used.
To be able to eliminate possible blockages in pipeline sections, an oblique plastic or cast-iron tee is installed at 45 ° with a plug and one elbow or cast-iron branch. Cast-iron fitting differs from plastic in names and gradations. For example, a 45° plastic elbow will fully match a 135° cast iron elbow.
Branch pipelines, which are located in the basements, under the ceiling of the premises, are connected to the risers using crosses or oblique tees.
The height from the lower section of the horizontal socket of the tee or straight cross to the floor should be no more than 20 mm.
The length of the pipeline from the toilet to the riser should not be more than 1 m. For other plumbing fixtures - no more than 3.5 m.
90° crosses or straight tees can be used to make turns on risers or transitions to horizontal runs.
To prevent the appearance of odors from the sewer in the room, an exhaust hood must be equipped. The so-called fan pipe is brought out through the roof to a height of about 0.7 m. It is unacceptable to connect it to a chimney or ventilation.
If not possible, a special air valve for sewerage is mounted.
The diameter of the riser must be equal to the diameter of the exhaust part. With one hood, you can combine two or even more risers on the top floor or in the attic. The horizontal sections of such a pipeline are fixed with hanging brackets or simply wire to the rafters.
On risers that do not have indents in the upper and lower floors, revisions for the sewer are installed. The standard height of the revision arrangement is 1000 mm from the floor level. If the part has to be installed in the corner of the room, it should be turned at an angle of 45 ° relative to the walls.
When installing an internal sewage system, all plastic pipes passing through the floors are installed in special metal sleeves. The height of the element depends on the width of the overlap. The top of the part should protrude 20 mm from the floor level, and the bottom should be flush with the ceiling.
The riser is installed with a sleeve on. In order for it not to fall from the pipe, it is tied with a thin wire to the superior socket of the cross or tee, or bursting with pieces of foam.
If it is assumed that a toilet bowl and other plumbing fixtures will be connected in series on a horizontal section, a sewer adapter must be installed between them. Plastic parts must not be turned high. This threatens with problems with the subsequent connection of equipment, especially with a shower or bath. On average, the turn should be carried out at half the socket of the tee in height with a direction towards the wall.
Clamps are used to secure the sewer. Plastic pipes are fixed in horizontal sections as necessary, so that no fractures occur. On average, one clamp is installed per half meter - a meter of the length of the line.
Cast iron pipes are mounted on steel brackets with a bend at the end, which prevent the pipeline from moving. Fasteners are installed under each pipe near the socket.
The risers are fixed to the side walls with 1-2 clamps per floor. Fasteners are installed under the sockets.

It is important to note that at the end of the installation work, tests for tightness are mandatory.

The fan pipe can be brought to the roof in different ways. The diagram shows three possible design options.

For the arrangement of internal sewage, various connecting elements are used. It should be borne in mind that the same cast-iron and plastic elements may differ in names and markings.

Sewerage is a necessary element of any comfortable home. Its arrangement does not require special special knowledge, but, at the same time, it cannot be called a simple matter. There are many nuances and features of the arrangement of the system. You should start with the development of a pipeline laying scheme, which will become the basis for subsequent work and help you correctly calculate the amount of materials needed. Already at this stage, you can evaluate your strengths and understand whether you will be able to cope with the work on your own or you will need to look for assistants. Many companies specialize in providing plumbing services. Professionals will quickly and competently carry out the installation of a sewer system of any complexity.

Sewerage in a private house is necessary if you live there permanently, and it is highly desirable if you bring there only the summer months. I will help you understand the basic schemes of sewer systems, and together we will analyze the algorithm for performing the key stages of work.

sewerage scheme

Sewerage for a private house is an essential condition for a comfortable stay. You can use the street and garbage pit only temporarily. Sooner or later, the question of creating an integrated system is understood.

Before you make a sewer in a private house, you need to decide on its configuration. The easiest way to do this is sequentially:

Analysis of existing communications. If the settlement has a centralized sewer network, then the work is simplified by an order of magnitude. We just need to get to the collector pipe and connect to it.

To connect to a common collector, you need permission from the local administration, and it is better to entrust the work itself to specialists. But in any case, it will be much cheaper than making a sewer tank yourself.

Determining the type of tank. Here we have only two options: a septic tank or a cesspool. It is more difficult and expensive to make a septic tank, but it rarely needs to be pumped out, a cesspool is the opposite. The optimal choice is a septic tank combined with a biological treatment plant, but high cost acts as a limiting factor.

Choosing a location for the tank. In this matter, one must be guided by the current regulations, which determine the minimum distance from a pit or septic tank to various objects. It is advisable to find a point in the lower part of the terrain (less digging) at a distance of at least 10 m from the house and at least 15 m from the well / well.
Room selection. The sewerage of a private house should tie together all the water drain points. It is worth collecting them as close to each other as possible, so we determine where the bathroom will be located. It is advisable to place it near the outer wall, on the side of the house where the tank will be - this way we will spend less effort and money on laying pipes.

Advance planning. Based on the information received, we build a plan for the entire system and preliminarily calculate how much and what materials we will need. According to the calculations, we plan the budget (immediately put in it an excess of 30%) and evaluate whether the project will be “elevating”.

If the preliminary stage is completed successfully, you can proceed to procurement and preliminary work.

Materials for creating an autonomous sewer

An independent sewerage device in a private household is a rather resource-intensive project. What is the minimum material required for its implementation?

The main items of expenditure are reflected in the table:

Illustration	Structural element
	Ready septic. The optimal solution for an autonomous sewer system is the installation of an industrial septic tank (Tank, Triton and analogues). Such products are equipped with multi-chamber tanks of sufficient volume and all the necessary devices for primary wastewater treatment, so we just have to install them. Main disadvantage- high price.
	Plastic container for a septic tank. As a reservoir, you can use a plastic (polyethylene, polypropylene) tank for waste accumulation. You can also purchase the so-called "Eurocube". A plus- complete tightness of the system. Minus- rather high cost and the need to install additional cleaning devices.
	concrete rings. If saving money is a priority when creating a sewer system, then tanks for the accumulation and treatment of wastewater can be made from standard concrete rings. Flaw- the need to additionally seal the containers and the complexity of installation. Perhaps, it is impossible to do without attracting a crane.
	Pipes for external sewerage. To connect the cesspool or septic tank to the house, special external pipes (orange color) are used. They tolerate temperature extremes well and do not deform even under significant pressure when laying at a depth.
	Pipes and fittings for internal sewerage. The internal sewer wiring is formed from polypropylene (gray) pipes with a diameter of 110 to 40 mm. Together with pipes, it is advisable to purchase the required number of fittings for making turns, bends, revisions, etc.
	Pipe thermal insulation. When laying the outer part of the network, as well as when installing communications in unheated premises (basement, basement), there is a risk of pipes freezing. To avoid this, it is desirable to insulate the sewer system using casings made of mineral wool, polyethylene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.

In addition to the basic materials that are used directly to create the system, additional ones will be needed:

gravel and sand for excavation and laying of the drainage layer;
cement mortar;
sealant based on moisture-resistant silicone;
revision wells - if you need to lay a long or winding pipeline.

outdoor work

Stage 1. Principle of operation and calculation of the volume of the septic tank

Installation of sewerage in a private house includes two types of work:

outdoor- consist in the construction of a reservoir (cesspool or septic tank) and laying a pipe to the house;
internal- involve the installation of pipe wiring in the house and the connection of water consumption points to it.

If possible, then these works are performed in parallel, if not, then you need to start with the device of the outer part.

The most effective design for autonomous sewerage of a private house is a septic tank. Unlike a cesspool, it does not accumulate wastewater, but provides for their processing. The output is relatively pure water, which is filtered into the soil, polluting it with organic matter at a minimum level.

The septic tank works quite simply:

settling. First, wastewater enters the first tank - a sump. It separates wastewater into fractions: solid particles precipitate (silt), light organic matter floats on the surface, and a clarified liquid collects in the middle part. Here, bacterial decomposition of waste occurs with the release of gaseous reaction products and the mineralization of residues.

overflow. An overflow hole is made in the wall of the first container, which is located at the filling level. Through the overflow pipe, clarified water flows from the sump into the second chamber, and solid residues are retained.
Filtration. In the second chamber (filtration or drain well), clarified effluents pass through the drainage layer at the bottom. Drainage retains another part of the pollution, because almost pure water enters the soil.

Almost all septic tanks work according to this principle - both home-made and factory ones. The difference lies in the design of the tanks, as well as in their number. Sometimes a septic tank has not two, but three chambers - then another tank is added between the sump and the filtration tank for more efficient cleaning.

Before you arrange a septic tank, you need to calculate its optimal volume.

The calculation of the volume of a septic tank is carried out according to the formula:

V = n * Q * 3 / 1000, where

V- the desired volume of the septic tank in cubic meters;
n- the number of people permanently residing in the house;
Q- rate of water consumption per person, liters per day;
3 - average duration of wastewater treatment, days.

If we take 200 liters approved in SNiP as the consumption rate, then, for example, for 4 people, the volume will be as follows:

V \u003d 4 * 200 * 3 / 1000 \u003d 2.4 m3.

Stage 2. Installation and equipment of the sewer tank

Now let's figure out how to properly make a sewer in a private house. The algorithm of work on the installation of a septic tank in the table:

Illustration	Stage of work
	Digging a pit. In the selected place, we apply markings to the site, after which we dig a pit for the installation of tanks. We select the dimensions of the pit with a margin - so that a layer of backfill and waterproofing / drainage can be laid on the bottom, and a clay castle can be made on the sides. For septic tanks of a small volume, the pit is dug manually; for large-scale structures, it is better to use the services of an excavator.
	Foundation preparation. We level the bottom of the pit, after which we lay a sand bed up to 20 cm thick. We ram the bed. Under the installation site of the sump (the first tank), you can pre-lay a waterproofing cushion made of clay or a concrete disk, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the well.
	Installation of containers. We lower concrete rings to the bottom of the pit, from which we form two wells. We seal the joints between the rings in order to prevent the ingress of untreated drains into the ground.
	Tank bottom device. We make the lower part of the sump tight by pouring a layer of concrete up to 10 cm thick. Additionally, you can treat the base with bituminous mastic and lay waterproofing roll material. We fill the bottom of the filtration well with drainage: pebbles, gravel, broken ceramic bricks, etc. You can also make holes in the lower ring of this tank or use a special perforated blank made of reinforced concrete.
	Overflow design. We connect both tanks with an overflow pipe, which we insert into holes at a distance of about 1.5 m from the bottom. In order to prevent organic waste from getting into the filtration tank from the sump, we install a T-shaped fitting on the pipe. Due to the presence of a lower branch pipe, such a fitting allows you to make a selection of clarified liquid under the surface film of organic matter. The installation sites of the overflow pipe are carefully sealed.
	Cover and necklines. Floor slabs with holes for hatches are installed on the wells. If the septic tank is located deep, then necks can be additionally used - narrower rings that provide access for cleaning, revision and repair.
	Ventilation and hatches. We build a ventilation pipe into the ceiling. It is desirable to make it higher - so the unpleasant smell will disappear faster. We cover wells or separately brought out necks with hatches of a suitable diameter, fixing them with cement mortar.

If the septic tank is below the groundwater level, then it is desirable to seal it from the outside using roofing material or bituminous mastic. Also, laying a dense layer of clay around the perimeter of the tanks, the so-called clay castle, will help prevent moisture from seeping into the chambers.

Stage 3. Laying pipes from the tank to the house

The next element of the external sewage system is a pipe connecting the tank to the house. Wastewater will flow through it to the treatment/storage facility.

Pipe laying technology:

Illustration	Operation in progress
	Digging and preparing trenches. Between the house and the septic tank, we dig a trench with a depth of 50 cm to 1.5 m (the deeper the soil freezes in winter, the more you have to dig). For the most efficient flow, we form a slope towards the septic tank of about 2 cm per 1 m. We lay a sandy bedding up to 15 cm at the bottom. We moisten the bedding and ram.
	Pipe laying. In the trench we lay a pipe for draining waste. The optimal pipe diameter for the outer part of the sewer system is 110 or 160 mm.
	Pipe insulation. If the septic tank is located relatively shallow, and the pipe cannot be buried more than 1 m, the circuit requires additional insulation. To do this, we wrap it with roll material based on glass wool or mineral fiber, or use cylindrical casings of a suitable diameter.
	Entering a septic tank. We can see one end of the pipe into the septic tank through a hole in the concrete wall of the well. As with the installation of the overflow, we carefully seal the hole.
	Entering the house. The entrance to the house can be decorated in different ways, but most often the pipe is wound through a hole in the basement or foundation. It is desirable to insert a metal sleeve into the hole, which will protect the sewer from damage during movements and subsidence. Also, the input node should be insulated.

After completing these works, we fill up all the trenches and pits completely, and then we lay fertile soil or a layer of turf on top of the backfill.

It is also advisable to make marks on the wall of the house at the entrance. These marks will be needed when we look for exactly where the sewer pipes are laid.

How to make sewer wiring

Stage 4. Basic elements of the internal network

The next stage is the arrangement of internal sewage. Its configuration directly depends on where the sources of waste are located, so here I will describe its main elements:

Riser- central vertical pipe, large diameter (minimum 110 mm), which combines all the circuits together. As a rule, one riser is made in a private house, but in large buildings there may be several. In the lower part, through the knee, it is connected to the outlet sewer pipe.
fan pipe- mounted in the upper part of the riser, serves to remove gases accumulating in the pipes from the system to the external environment. It is discharged into a separate ventilation shaft or connected to a ventilation pipe located above the roof level.

Without a drain pipe, the pressure in the system will increase, which can lead to incorrect operation of the valves. In addition, the accumulated gases cause unpleasant odors.

Main branches- pipelines with a diameter of about 50 mm (2 inches). Used to connect plumbing fixtures and other sources of drain to the riser. Since the local sewage system is usually made gravity-flowing (i.e., working without additional pressure), the pipes are laid with a slope towards the drain. For two-inch pipes, the optimal slope is about 3 cm per 1 m.
supply pipes- used to connect the outlets of plumbing fixtures with highways. The diameter of such a pipe cannot be larger than the diameter of the line.

Revisions- special fittings, which are a tee with one outlet, equipped with a closing hatch. The audit is placed at the base of the riser, at turns, branches and at the ends of highways. It provides access to the inside of the pipeline to remove blockages or preventive maintenance.

Stage 5. Pipe connection

All pipes are interconnected using fittings that allow you to make turns, branches, branches, etc. When installing the system, it is desirable to avoid turns at sharp and right angles, forming smooth arcs - this way we will reduce the risk of blockages in the place where the flow rate decreases.

Typical modern pipes, equipped with sockets and elastic cuffs, are easy to assemble with your own hands :

Illustration	Mounting operation
	Pipe cutting. Using a hacksaw with fine teeth, cut the smooth end of the pipe to the desired size.
	Chamfer removal. We clean the trimming place, removing burrs from the outer inner side - they can cause blockage.
	Trumpet preparation. We insert a rubber sealing ring into the socket. We level the sealant, laying it in the groove and making sure that there are no bends or creases.
	Pipe connection. We insert the nozzle into the socket and push it in until it stops. If necessary, turn the pipe so that the outlet or revision hole is in the desired position.

After assembly, all pipes are installed on bearing surfaces. The instruction allows both hidden (in strobes or behind the skin) and open gaskets. In the second case, plastic clamps with a latch or screw fixation are used to fasten the pipes.

Stage 6. Connecting to plumbing fixtures

At the last stage, the plumbing equipment is connected:

Toilet- usually installed in the immediate vicinity of the riser. The outlet of the toilet bowl is connected by a corrugation or a piece of pipe either with a riser outlet or with a short line with a diameter of at least 110 mm.

Bathtub or shower- are connected to the sewerage by means of compact siphons which are placed under drain openings. The optimum diameter of the outlet pipe is at least 50 mm.

Some models of shower cabins and toilets require a vertical sewerage supply - this must be taken into account in advance when designing the system.

Sinks in the kitchen and bathroom- are built into the system using siphons with water seals. The siphon is usually bulb-shaped and placed under the sink, and it is connected to the sewer outlet with a flexible corrugated pipe.
Washing machines and dishwashers- also mounted using flexible corrugated hoses. To connect such devices, it is necessary to install a separate outlet of the sewer pipe, equipped with a socket with a rubber sealing cuff.

Conclusion

The installation technology of the sewage system includes a number of nuances that directly affect the final result. Now you know them too. You can clearly get acquainted with the intricacies of the topic in the video in this article. You can get answers to any questions you have in the comments to this material.