Step-by-step instructions for the installation of metal tiles using a special technology from a to z. Installation instructions for metal tiles Installation instructions for metal tiles Microsoft Word

How to lay a metal tile? This question is asked by almost all developers who have chosen this modern, practical and durable material for their home. We will try to tell in the most detailed way what technology of metal tile installation is recommended by its manufacturers and which metal tile installation scheme is most preferable.

The main advantages of metal tile modules are good strength and high fire-fighting properties.

In addition, you will learn how the roofing "pie" works, what materials and tools will be needed to build the roof, and much more. We hope that our instructions for laying metal tiles will be useful to both developers and builders, regardless of whether you are building a house or making a canopy from metal tiles.

Metal tile: installation technology

A design made according to this scheme, with the proper selection of materials, will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Briefly about the roofing "pie". Before starting the installation of a metal tile (you can download the video or watch it a little lower), let's recall some concepts and a diagram of the roofing "pie". It got its name because of the large number of layers that perform various functions. It is this design, with the proper selection of materials, that will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.

Regardless of whether you do the installation of metal tiles with your own hands or hire installers, it is important to clearly understand that the roof is a rather complex structure, during the construction of which it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations for the installation of metal tiles, which are given by manufacturers, as well as all building codes and regulations.

Constantly keep under control the entire installation of metal tiles (you can download the video instruction or watch it here), since the consequences of poor-quality work may not appear immediately. So, poorly laid steam and waterproofing can lead to the accumulation of condensate, deterioration of thermal insulation properties, and rotting of wooden structural elements. Keep in mind that, only by observing all the rules for installing metal tiles, you can build a reliable and durable roof.

Metal tile and installation of structural elements is carried out according to the following sequence (scheme N 1):

The technology of installation of a roof made of metal tiles implies mandatory protection of the insulation from the side of the MCH with the help of film waterproofing, and from the side of the premises - film vapor barrier.

Rafter system.
Counter rails.
Waterproofing film.
Bars of a vertical crate.
The initial bar of the horizontal crate.
Bars of a horizontal lathing.
Additional crate.
Wind board.
Gutter bracket.
Cornice plank.
Metal tile.
Roof ridge.
Skate seal.
Hearing window.
Thermal insulation.
Vapor barrier.
Attic lining.

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Installation instructions for metal tiles (Monterrey and its analogues)

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Tools and equipment

Installation of Monterrey metal tile and its analogues must begin with the preparation of the necessary tool. You will need:

1. Manual scissors for metal.
2. Hacksaw (with fine teeth).
3. Cutting shears for metal.
4. Special nozzle for a drill for cutting metal.
5. Electric nibblers.
6. Electric jigsaw.
7. Circular saw.
8. Bulgarian with an abrasive wheel.

tool for cutting sheets of metal (MCH);
screwdriver (preferably cordless);
hammer of medium size;
long straight rail or rule;
marker.

scissors for metal (manual and electric);
hacksaw or electric reciprocating saw with appropriate blades;
electric cutting shears;
jigsaw;
circular saw with victorious teeth.

At the end of the work, carefully remove the metal filings, otherwise they, rusting, will spoil the polymer coating of the MP.

Attention! In no case do not cut the metal tile with tools with abrasive wheels ("grinder"). Otherwise, under the influence of high temperatures, not only the polymer layer, but also the zinc coating will be destroyed. The result will be disappointing: a rapid rusting process will begin, rusty streaks will appear on your roof.

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Installation of metal tiles (Monterey and analogues)

If thermal insulation boards have already been purchased, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since subsequently the insulation will be inserted between the roof rafters.

The step of the rafters under the metal tile should be in the range of 550-900 mm. Keep in mind that if you have already purchased thermal insulation boards, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since subsequently the insulation will be inserted between the roof rafters. As a material for rafters, as a rule, a bar with a section of 150x50 mm is chosen.

After the rafters are installed, it is necessary to perform control measurements of the slopes. Check the squareness and flatness of the structure, for this, measure the diagonals of the slopes. Small deviations (up to 10 mm) are acceptable, they can later be hidden with additional elements.

Please note that if a metal tile is used for the roof, the slope of the slope must be at least 14 °. The length of the sheets is determined by the main size - the length of the slope. It is measured from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the eaves overhang (at least 40 mm). If your slope is more than 6 m long, then the sheets must be broken into two or more pieces, which are then laid with an overlap. The overlap of the metal tile should be about 150 mm. Of course, when using long sheets on a slope, fewer joints are obtained, but it is much more difficult to lay them than short ones.

The length of the insulation should be 2-3 cm more than the distance between the rafters.

With diurnal temperature fluctuations, condensation may appear on the lower surface of the MP. Also, warm air from the house, containing moisture vapor, penetrates into the cold under-roof space. Excess moisture leads to wetting of the insulation layer, and consequently, its thermal performance deteriorates. As a result, the roof freezes, ice forms on the metal tile, the rafters and lathing rot, mold appears and the interior decoration of the premises is destroyed.

To avoid all these troubles, the installation manual for metal tiles of any manufacturer strongly recommends using insulation of the required thickness. In addition, the technology of installation of a roof made of metal tiles implies mandatory protection of the insulation from the side of the MCH with the help of film waterproofing, and from the side of the premises - film vapor barrier.

To remove moisture vapor from the under-roof space, it is necessary to create natural ventilation, that is, to ensure free movement of air from the roof eaves to its ridge. To do this, a free space (about 40 mm) is left between the MCH and the waterproofing film by means of the crate. On the cornice overhangs, when they are hemmed, gaps are left, and special holes are released in the rubber seal of the ridge.

Roll out the waterproofing horizontally on the rafters. Start from the eaves, making a sag of about 20 mm. Make an overlap between adjacent panels (approximately 150 mm). Films of the Yutafol or Yutacon brand should be placed outward with the side that has a colored strip along the edge. Flipping the film is not allowed. On the market today you can find a sufficient number of certain roofing films. Consult with managers about the features of their application.

1. Rafter leg.
2. Waterproofing material.
3. Control grid.
4. Lathing.

After installing the waterproofing material, it is possible to simultaneously lay the roof covering on the outside and thermal insulation inside the building. Install heat-insulating plates between the rafters, leaving a gap of at least 20 mm for the Yutafol or Yutacon waterproofing, otherwise the film will lose its properties. If you purchased Tyvek or Yutavek brand film, there is no need to make a gap.

On the inner surfaces of the rafters, fix the vapor barrier "Yutafol H Silver" or "Yutafol H 110" with a stapler. Lay the vapor barrier sheets with an overlap, hermetically connecting them with adhesive tape. After completing this stage of work, you can begin the interior lining (if it is an attic floor).

Carry out the crate from antiseptic-treated beams with a section of 50x50 mm and edged boards 32x100 mm (approximate values). First, nail falling beams onto the rafters over the waterproofing film from the ridge to the eaves, and then fasten the battens boards on them.

Take the first board of the crate (if you count from the cornice) thicker than the others (about 10-15 mm). Now the most important thing is to maintain the necessary distances between the boards. If you have a Monterrey metal tile, the installation of the second board must be carried out, stepping back from the bottom edge of the first board 300 mm (measure to the middle of the second board being nailed).

Before mounting the metal tile, in the inner junction of the slopes, the bottom bar of the valley is fastened with self-tapping screws to the solid crate. If the planks need to be joined, an overlap is made (100-150 mm).

The same distance for MCH "MP Maxi" is 350 mm. The center distance of all subsequent boards of the crate (32x100 mm) for the "Monterey" or "Supermonterey" MCH is 350 mm, for the "Maxi" MCH - 400 mm. If you have made a rafter pitch of more than 1000 mm, use thicker batten boards.

Perform a continuous crate in the valleys, near the chimneys, along the perimeter of the dormers and dormers. On both sides of the ridge, nail two additional edged boards, and lift the end strips above the ordinary crate, to a height equal to the height of the MCH profile.

Before mounting the metal tile, at the inner junction of the slopes on a continuous crate, fasten the bottom bar of the valley with self-tapping screws. If the planks need to be joined, overlap (about 100-150 mm). Then mark and cut (if necessary) the MCH sheets. Mount the metal tile from the bottom up.

From above, at the junction of sheets (it rarely looks beautiful), install a decorative element - the upper bar of the valley. Attention! Junction nodes are the weakest point of the roof. Therefore, so that later you do not have to repair metal tiles, approach their device especially carefully.

To ensure a hermetic adjoining of the roof from the MCH to the chimneys and walls, an internal apron is made on the slope. Use the lower junction bars for its manufacture. Attach the plank to the pipe wall and mark the top edge of the plank on the brick. Then, along the marked line with the help of a grinder, punch a strobe. After chasing is completed, remove dust and rinse the working section of the wall with water.

Start installing the inner apron from the wall of the pipe located on the underside of the slope (from the side of the eaves, not the ridge). Cut the bar in place, install and secure with self-tapping screws. Using the same principle, install the apron on all remaining sides of the pipe. If you have to join the planks, overlap (about 150 mm). Treat the edge of the apron inserted into the strobe with silicone sealant (it is better if it is colorless).

Fasten the gutter holders to the bottom board of the crate. Their method of attachment and pitch is determined by the type of drainage system used.

Then, under the bottom edge of the inner apron, put a flat sheet, the so-called tie, which will provide water drainage. Direct the tie either into the valley or down to the roof eaves. Along the edge of the tie, using pliers and a hammer, make a rim.

Mount MCH sheets on top of the apron and tie. After laying the roofing around the chimney, proceed to the manufacture and installation of the outer apron. For its manufacture, use the upper junction bars. Install them in the same way as the lower ones, only do not insert the upper edge into the strobe, but fasten it directly to the wall.

Attention! All movements on the roof from the MCH must be carried out only if safety measures are observed. Wear soft, comfortable, non-slip shoes. Step only into the deflection of the wave. Put on the installer's belt and fasten the tether.

Fasten the gutter holders to the bottom board of the crate. Their method of attachment and pitch is determined by the type of drainage system used. So read the instructions that come with it. Pay special attention to the location of the edge of the gutter. It should be below the edge of the metal tile by 25-30 mm. This is necessary to maintain the integrity of the gutters when snow layers leave the roof.

If the gutter system has a rectangular cross section, then the gutter is simply inserted and fixed in the holders. The cornice strip is attached to the roof lathing, while the lower edge of the strip overlaps the edge of the gutter. The waterproofing film is removed above the eaves (to drain condensate).

When installing a round gutter, it is necessary to bring its rear edge into the fixing ledge on the holder. The cornice strip is installed according to the above method. Roofing film is also displayed above the cornice strip.

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Installation of metal tiles - instructions for installing skylights

The number of windows required for a comfortable level of attic lighting can be determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the area of the room. Values from 1:8 to 1:12 are recommended.

Let's make a small digression and consider the option of a roof with skylights. The number of windows required for a comfortable level of attic lighting can be determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the area of the room. Values from 1:8 to 1:12 are recommended. That is, if your attic has an area of 100 sq.m, then the total area of \u200b\u200bwindows should be 10 sq.m. It is recommended to install skylights at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor level. When choosing windows, also keep in mind that two small windows located at some distance will give more light than one large one.

In addition, you can install skylights in groups, horizontally, vertically or in combination. As a rule, windows are installed on the crate with simultaneous fastening to the rafters. Although there may be their own characteristics, depending on the manufacturer of roof windows. If the horizontal dimensions of the window do not match the pitch of the rafters, a partial change in the truss structure will be required. In this case, it is recommended to install a rafter fragment and additional horizontal counter rails that fix it. The opening under the window should exceed its dimensions by 40-60 mm in the horizontal plane and by 45 mm in the vertical plane. Usually the installation of skylights is not difficult, since each window has detailed installation instructions.

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The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and is fixed with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, a visor made of metal tiles (removal) of the order of 40 mm is made at the eaves.

Align the first sheet along the end of the roof and secure with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, make a visor of metal tiles (removal) of about 40 mm at the eaves. Lay the second sheet with an overlap on the first (if you are mounting from right to left) or bring the edge of the second sheet under the first - when mounting from left to right.

Between themselves, connect the sheets with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the overlap, while not screwing them to the crate and provide them with the opportunity to move relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the upper, ridge part.

Lay the third sheet in the same way as the second. Align all three sheets connected to each other parallel to the eaves. If it is necessary to join the sheets along the length, lay them in the order indicated in Figure B. Attention! If your metal tile is equipped with a protective film, be sure to remove it during installation.

Fasten the lower part of the sheet with self-tapping screws to the sole of the MCH wave. Step through the wave. Arrange the subsequent rows of self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern, also alternating them through the wave. Fasten the side overlaps of the sheets with self-tapping screws for each ridge. The estimated consumption of self-tapping screws during the installation of metal tiles is 6-8 pieces / sq.m of roofing.

Attention! When buying a metal tile, check with the supplier for the terms of the guarantee. The fact is that some manufacturers provide a guarantee for the MCH only if they use self-tapping screws of a strictly defined brand. Therefore, advice: buy self-tapping screws from a metal tile supplier.

At the ends of the roof, install end strips with an overlap of 50 mm. Fix them with self-tapping screws through 550-600 mm. Use self-tapping screws 80 mm long on the top, 28 mm on the side. Trim the planks if necessary.

Under the ridge, a curly seal must be placed, after releasing the ventilation holes.

Skate bars can be flat or round. Start installing the round ridge bar by fixing flat or conical plugs on its ends with self-tapping screws or rivets (choose their shape in accordance with the shape of your roof). For a flat ridge, no plugs are required.

Place a curly seal under the ridge, after releasing the ventilation holes. Install a flat or round ridge on the laid seal. Place ridge screws 80 mm long through the MCH wave. Make an overlap of 100 mm between the individual ridge panels.

The question of how to properly lay a metal tile is asked by most developers who decide to choose this practical, modern and durable material when building a house. This article will talk about how the installation of metal tiles is carried out - the instruction will tell you about all the subtleties and nuances of this work.

The article also talks about the construction of a roofing pie, the materials, tools and much more necessary for the construction of a roof.

The “metal tile - installation - instruction” scheme used in the article can be useful both for developers and for the builders themselves, both when building a house and when performing such work as erecting a canopy from metal tiles.

Mounting technology

Before proceeding with the installation of metal tiles, you can watch or download a video on the Internet - installation of metal tiles, but first of all, consider the scheme and basic principles of the so-called roofing pie for metal tiles.

This name is associated with a large number of layers, each of which performs a specific function.

Subject to the correct selection of materials, as well as the calculation and installation, it is this design that makes it possible to make a roof made of metal tiles the most reliable and durable.

Regardless of how the instruction will be applied - the installation of metal tiles is planned to be carried out with one's own hands or with the invitation of hired workers, one should be aware that the roof is a rather complex structure, during the construction of which it is important to strictly follow the recommendations of manufacturers for the installation of metal roofing, as well as all building rules and regulations.

Let us remind you once again that it is recommended to watch the video - the installation of metal tiles, and the entire process of installation itself should be constantly monitored, since poor-quality work may not be detected immediately, but during operation.

For example, poor-quality installation of hydro- and vapor barriers can lead to the accumulation of condensate, a decrease in the quality of thermal insulation and rotting of wooden structural elements.

Important: a reliable and durable roof can only be built in full compliance with all the rules that the instruction includes: installation of metal tiles.

rafter system;
counter rails;
Waterproofing film;
Bars of vertical lathing;
Starting beam of a horizontal crate;
Bars of horizontal lathing;
The crate is additional;
wind board;
Gutter bracket;
Cornice plank;
metal tile;
Roofing ridge;
Ridge seal;
Dormer window;
thermal insulation material;
vapor barrier material;
Attic lining.

The figure shows the installation scheme of the metal tile, in accordance with which the work described below is carried out.

But first you need to figure out what tools will be used to install the coating.

Tools and equipment

This instruction: metal tile - installation describes the process of installing metal tiles using the example of the Monterrey brand and similar ones, the installation of other brands is generally carried out according to the same principle, the distinctive features will be discussed at the end of the article.

To perform the work, you will need the following tools and materials:

Tool for cutting sheets of metal;
Screwdriver, preferably on batteries;
Medium-sized hammer;
Rule or even long rail;
Marker.

In order to cut sheets, manufacturers advise using the following tools:

Scissors manual or electric for metal;
Hacksaw or reciprocating electric saw with the necessary blades;
Perforated electric scissors;
Electric jigsaw;
A circular saw with teeth from Pobeda.

After the cutting of the sheets is completed, various sawdust should be removed, which, when rusting, can damage the polymer coating of the metal tile.

Important: when cutting sheets of metal, do not use a tool with abrasive cutting wheels, such as a grinder.

In this case, exposure to high temperatures will lead to the destruction of the zinc and polymer coating of the material, which will subsequently cause a corrosion process, as a result of which rusty smudges will appear on the roof.

Installation instructions

Beneficial: Although laying long sheets reduces the number of joints, the installation process itself is much more difficult than laying shorter overlapping sheets.

Roof freezing;
Formation of ice on the metal tile;
Rotting of the crate and rafters;
Destruction of interior decoration.

In order to avoid these unpleasant consequences, the rules for installing metal tiles recommend using heat-insulating material of the required thickness.

In addition, when installing a metal tile, it is imperative to protect the insulation material from the side of the metal tile - using a waterproofing film, from the side of the interior - with a vapor barrier film.

The removal of wet vapors from the space under the roof is ensured by the creation of natural ventilation, which is the free movement of air masses from the eaves to the roof ridge.

To do this, a gap of approximately 40 mm should be left between the waterproofing film and the metal tile using the crate. When hemming the overhangs of the cornices, gaps should be left on them, as well as special holes should be freed in the rubber seal on the ridge.

Useful: in the case of Yutavek and Tyvek films, thermal insulation can be laid without a gap.

The crate is made of beams or edged boards, treated with antiseptic preparations. The recommended section of the bars is 50x50 mm, the boards are 100x32 mm.
The installation of the crate is carried out in several stages:

On the rafters, bars are nailed over the waterproofing film, falling from the ridge to the eaves. Lathing boards are attached to these beams;
The first board of the crate from the eaves should be approximately 10-15 mm thicker than the others. Next, you need to observe the correct distance between the boards;
In the case of Monterrey metal tiles, installation instructions: the metal tile prescribes to install the second board with an indent from the bottom edge of the first 300 mm (measured from the middle of the second nailed board), for the Maxi metal tile this distance is 350 mm;
The distances between the axes of the boards of the lathing, nailed in the future, are for different brands of metal tiles: for "Monterrey" and "Supermonterrey" - 350 mm, for "Maxi" - 400 mm.

Important: if the pitch of the rafters exceeds 1000 mm, boards of greater thickness should be used for the crate.

Solid lathing is performed in places such as valleys, chimneys, the perimeter of dormer and roof windows. On both sides of the ridge, two additional edged boards are nailed, while the end strips rise to the height of the metal tile profile above the ordinary crate.

Installation of metal tiles. endova

Before the metal tile is laid, the instruction provides for fastening the bottom plank of the valley with self-tapping screws to a continuous crate along the inner junction of the slopes.
If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of 100-150 mm is made. Next, markup and, if necessary, cut sheets of metal tiles.
Installation of metal tiles is made from the bottom up (see. Fig.). The upper joint of the sheets rarely has an attractive appearance, so a decorative element is installed on top of it, for example, the top bar of the valley.

Important: the weakest point of the roof is the junction nodes. In order to avoid subsequently repairing the roof, their device is an instruction: metal tiles must be performed with special care.

The hermetic adjunction of a metal-tiled roof to the walls on the slopes and chimneys is carried out using an internal apron, manufactured using the lower adjoining strips:
- The bar is applied to the pipe wall, after which its upper edge is marked on the brick;
- With the help of a grinder, a strobe is punched along the drawn line, after which dust should be removed and the area should be washed with water;
- The installation of the inner apron begins on the wall of the pipe, which is located in the lower part of the slope, that is, from the side of the eaves. The bar is cut in place, installed and fastened with self-tapping screws;
- Similarly, the installation of the apron is carried out on all remaining sides of the pipe;
- If it is necessary to join the planks, an overlap of approximately 150 mm is performed. The edge of the apron, wound into the strobe, should be treated with silicone sealant, preferably colorless;
- Further, a tie is inserted into the space under the lower edge of the inner apron - a flat sheet that provides water flow. The tie can be directed either into the valley or down to the very eaves. Along the edges of the tie with a hammer and pliers, a side is made;
- Sheets of metal tiles are mounted over a tie and apron;
- After laying the roofing around the chimney pipe, the manufacture and installation of the outer apron, made using the upper abutment strips, begins;
- The upper strips are installed similarly to the lower ones, but the upper edge does not go into the strobe, but is attached directly to the wall.
Important: when moving on a metal roof, all necessary safety measures should be observed.

Metal tile: installation instructions prescribes to wear comfortable and soft non-slip shoes and step only into the wave deflections. In addition, the installer's belt and safety tether should be used.
- The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and fastened at the top with a single self-tapping screw.
  At the same time, an extension (metal-tiled visor) of about 40 mm should be made near the eaves. The second sheet is laid with an overlap of the first when mounted from right to left, or its edge is brought under the first sheet in case of mounting from left to right.
- The sheets are fastened together using self-tapping screws at the upper point of the overlap, while they should not be screwed to the crate under the metal tile - it should be possible to freely move the sheets relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the ridge part.
- The laying of the third sheet is carried out similarly to the second, after which the sheets fastened together are aligned parallel to the eaves.
  If it is necessary to join the sheets along the length, you should follow the order of their laying, shown in Figure B.
Important: if there is a protective film on the metal tile, it must be removed before installation.

Important: when purchasing a metal tile, you need to find out the terms of the guarantee for the material.

Many manufacturers provide a guarantee for metal tiles only with the condition of using a certain brand of self-tapping screws, so it is recommended to purchase self-tapping screws from the supplier along with the material itself.
1. When installing ventilation elements, the first thing to do in a metal tile is to draw and cut a hole according to the template.
  Next, silicone is applied to the passage element, after which the structure is attached to the metal tile using self-tapping screws.
  The ventilation outlet is inserted into the passage element, aligned vertically with a level and also fastened with self-tapping screws.
  To connect the hood and the house air duct, a corrugated pipe is used, which is passed through the roof pie, after which the passage is sealed with adhesive tape.
2. For the installation of stairs, brackets are used in the amount of 4 pieces per 1 section.
  They are put on the ladder racks and fixed with M8x40 bolts.
  The brackets are fastened to the roof surface in wave deflections using Sh8x60 bolts, and their junctions are sealed.
  Along the length of the roof slope, the ladder is assembled in sections, the uppermost of which is attached to the ridge beam with special brackets.
Important: if there are skylights, snow guards must also be installed above them.

Installation of other types of metal tiles

Above, the general procedure for the construction of a metal-tiled roof was considered, we will consider the main nuances when installing certain types of material.

The figure shows that the step of the crate during the installation of the metal tile of the Cascade brand differs from the step for the Elite and Monterrey brands. These differences are due to differences in the dimensions of the material profile.

When installing metal tiles of the Andalusia brand, which has a Z-shaped lock, you should also take into account your own nuances. In the lock part of this brand there is a perforation that simplifies the positioning of the sheet on the roof and its fastening.

At the same time, the fasteners are hidden, which makes it possible to make the joints of the sheets almost invisible.

When purchasing a metal tile, you should find out various subtleties about a particular type of material, and when performing installation, it is important to follow the rules and requirements described in this manual. This will allow you to build a reliable and durable metal roofing.

In many ways, it is superior to other types of roofing, such as slate, galvanized sheet, shingles, etc. The laying of the material is usually trusted to specialists, but if you wish, you can do the installation of metal tiles with your own hands.

Material advantages

The strengths of metal roofing include:

The disadvantages include only increased noise during precipitation, but this can be solved by installing a layer of glass wool.

Covering the roof with metal tiles begins with calculations.

Stage 1. Calculations

First, let's clarify one important point. Visually, the roof covered with this material consists of rows and waves (the former pass across the slope). The distance between rows is called a step. If a tile sheet has a pitch of 35 cm and six waves, then it is called a module. The modern building materials market offers sheets for 1, 3, 6 and 10 modules.

Important! If desired, you can order tiles according to individual sizes, but it will cost much more. It should be remembered that the length of the sheet should not exceed 7 m and be less than 45 cm.

When calculating and laying out, the fact is taken into account that the joints and waves must form an integral coating along the entire length of the slope. Having decided on the number of modules, the amount of material is calculated from the roof area.

In addition to the metal tile itself, the kit also includes:

steel strips 2 m long;
steel sheets 200x125 cm, having the same color as the tiles.

Planks are usually designed for roofs with a slope of 30ᵒ, although you can adjust to 11-70ᵒ if desired.

Important! The minimum slope at which tiles can be installed is 11ᵒ.

Stage 2. Preparing everything you need

The following equipment is required for the installation of tiles:

metal scissors;
ladder;
electric drill;
long rail;
screwdriver;
mounting tape;
measuring device;
a hammer;
marker;
personal protective equipment (mittens, plastic glasses).

You will also need the following consumables:

waterproofing;
tiles;
roofing strips;
aero roller;
slats for ends and ridge;
decorative overlays;
self-tapping screws, sealing washers and to them;
boards 2.5x10 cm;
guide board.

Stage 3. Foundation

As noted earlier, the metal tile weighs a little, so it does not need a reinforced base - you will need a regular crate of wooden slats. The step of the crate should be calculated according to the dimensions of the tiles, so that during installation, self-tapping screws should not be driven into the void.

Stage 4. Thermal insulation

Thermal insulation is necessary not only to prevent heat loss, but also to protect against rain noise. First, the rafters are covered with a vapor barrier material (for example, Izospan or Yutafol). Next, an insulating layer is laid (no more than 25 cm thick), covered with an antioxidant film and attached to the rafters with wooden bars.

Important! The material between the bars should sag a little (about 2 cm) so that the condensate flows only into the drain.

Stage 5. Installation of tiles. Basic Rules

can be done in one of two ways. If the stacking of sheets starts from the right, then each new one is superimposed on the previous one. Otherwise, the previous sheets are superimposed.
In order to ensure correct installation, four sheets of tiles, overlapping relative to each other, are first tacked, aligned, and only then finally connected with one self-tapping screw.
Self-tapping screws must be of high quality, because the service life of the roofing largely depends on them. These must be galvanized screws with propylene rubber sealing heads that tightly fill the hole when twisted.
A thickening appears at the junction of the four sheets. It must be removed, for which part of the corner is cut off or the capillary ditch located under the stamping line is straightened.

Stage 6. Individual elements

Step 1. The end strips are overlapped (about 2 cm). The size of the wave is adjusted to the width of the slope, otherwise the crest may fit on the pediment.

Step 2 A roofing strip is added, then an additional sealant is placed between it and the sheet of material.

Step 3. When arranging pipes or windows that are below the ridge, sheets with one module are taken - two pieces for each structural element.

Step 4. With sloping slopes, an aero roller is installed between the material and the ridge bar, which will prevent the penetration of atmospheric precipitation under the ridge.

Step 5. The skate is fixed on the slats located at the ends of the structure. This must be done in such a way that it protrudes by 2-3 cm. In the case of a flat ridge, all elements are overlapped, and if it is semicircular, then only according to the profile lines.

It is also worth noting that the ridge bars, if necessary, can be bent and unbent so that they repeat the angle of the roof.

Stage 7. Arrangement of the valley

An additional board is attached to each valley. Installation in this case starts from the bottom and is overlapped by 25-30 cm. Below the level of the cornice, the lower bar is cut off, and flanging is made along it. A sealant is placed under each rim and ridge.

There is a gap between the axis and the sheets (at least 8-10 cm). Screws are screwed into the cut sheets one and a half centimeters from the stamping line. At the same time, when fixing, fasteners are made 25 cm from the axis of the valley. If everything was done correctly, then at the end of the work, the sheet at the place of fastening will be in contact with the board where the valley is located.

Important! If mistakes were made, then the fastening will be in other places and, as a result, gaps will form on the surface through which the roof will flow.

To cover the cut sheets, decorative overlays are used, when installing which you need to remember some important points:

Often the beginning and end of the valleys are on the slope of the roof. Take, for example, the installation of a dormer window. Here, a separate board is placed under the valley. For the window itself, a cutout is made in the sheet, and sealing material is laid along the walls. In this case, the cornice overhang is covered with a plank.

Then the valley strips are fixed, pre-cut along the edges. The part that came out should stick extremely tightly to the tile sheet.

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

Video - Laying metal tiles

Slopes in the form of a trapezoid or triangle

If the roof slopes are trapezoidal or triangular in shape, then additional bars must be installed.

Step 1. The bars are attached on both sides of the "ridge" along the roof fold line.

Step 2. The cornice board is installed and assembled.

Step 3 A cornice system is being built.

Step 4. The tiles are laid. This is done along the line of one of the edges or axis. The first sheet is aligned with the cornice plank.

Important! It is unacceptable that the distance between the cut corner sheets installed near the "ridge" be more than 10 cm.

Step 5. To install the ridge nodes, the following steps are performed. The ridge bars are aligned along the corner of the "ridge". If a straight ridge is used, then it is cut according to the corners, and if it is semicircular, then an additional plug (preferably plastic) will be required.

Step 6. The ridge bar lies strictly along the axis of the "ridge". It is quite simple to do this if the angles of the slopes are the same, and if they are different, then, accordingly, it is difficult. To control the junction of the slopes, a mounting tape of a bright color is used.

Material care features

As already mentioned, the metal tile is covered with a polymer layer that protects against corrosion. But the constant exposure to ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and dust sooner or later causes the destruction of the protective layer. That is why metal roofing should be cleaned regularly.

Dirt and dry leaves are washed off with a damp, fuzzy brush.
To remove more difficult dirt, you can use special cleaners for polymer surfaces.
Do not use aggressive chemicals - they can destroy the protective layer.
Gutters are cleaned with a jet of water under pressure. The jet must be directed from the ridge to the eaves.
To clean the roof of snow, you can use only those tools that, in principle, are unable to damage the coating.

Subject to all these rules, it will last about 50 years.

The metal tile became one of the most demanded roofing materials for a long time. But there is a popular myth that only trained professionals can lay it down. In fact, the situation is different - with due diligence, any neat person will cope with this work.

Where to begin?

Installation of a metal tile begins with careful preparation for work. First of all, the exact need for the material is calculated and, of course, they start from the size of the roof. They need to be measured as carefully as possible. Cutting the material into the desired fragments is done with an angle grinder, but without an abrasive wheel - it damages the tiles too easily. The former roofing cake is supposed to be removed without residue, because the rafters are not designed for two coatings at once; this completes the preparation for laying as a whole, except for tools and materials.

Tools and everything you need

In order to lay metal tile boards with your own hands, you need to cut them to exact dimensions using metal scissors. Taking measurements and comparing with them requires the use of a tape measure. To climb to the roof, it is extremely important to use a sturdy ladder or stepladder. Fastening is carried out using an electric drill and a screwdriver. From hand tools you need a hammer, a black stationery marker, a long wooden lath. When working, be sure to use gloves and goggles made of durable plastic.

You also need to stock up on such components as:

guide boards;
roof slats;
waterproofing material;
the tile itself;

aero rollers;
end and ridge trims;
decorative overlays;
self-tapping screws with washers;
board 25x100 mm in the required quantity.

Types of roofing and elements

The calculation of the necessary elements for a gable roof has its own characteristics. Let's say its dimensions are 8x5 m (according to the slopes). The calculation of the required number of sheets is determined by dividing the length of a single slope by the width of the sheet. This refers to the working width together with overlaps, and not the one that is obtained by measuring with a tape measure. It is recommended to round the resulting non-integer value always up and take into account that one of the sheets can be divided equally and used on two slopes at once.

The simpler the type of roof (especially the configuration of the slopes), the less tiles will go to waste. By increasing the length of the sheets, you can reduce the amount of overlap. But this turns into a complication of work and more difficult transportation, for which you will have to pay a lot. Judging by the experience of most people, if the length exceeds 6 p. m, it is advisable to divide the sheet into parts. The overlap is at least 0.15 m if the slope is steeper than 25 degrees, and it will be at least 0.2 m if the roof is flatter.

Laying tiles on an insulated roof involves the installation of:

waterproofing film;
one or more ventilation gaps;
vapor barrier.

For fastening films, special brackets are used; the moisture barrier layer itself may be vapor permeable or impermeable. The passage of water vapor is mandatory if there is a cold attic below, but for a heated residential attic, this is no longer so significant. But ventilation under the roof layer must be ensured. If it is not installed, condensation will inevitably appear below, and the safety of the house structures cannot be guaranteed. It is advisable to use, as well as under any layer of metal on the roof, sp

Such membranes are one-sided, and the side that is smooth to the touch should not be applied to the insulation. It is advisable to carry out work on the arrangement of ventilation and antenna output in close conjunction with each other. Typically, the top of the antenna outlets is cut off, leaving approximately 80% of the size of the racks. The exit of the ventilation pipe is output into the passage elements, which must be held with self-tapping screws. To connect the outer part of the hood with the air duct in the house, a corrugated pipe is useful; adhesive tape is used to fix this pipe in a predetermined position and seal the joint.

All these measures will improve the quality of the insulation, but you need to deal with its appropriate type.

Mineral wool is considered one of the best options because it:

does not burn;
well extinguishes steps and impacts of raindrops on the roof;
mechanically strong;
stably retains valuable qualities for decades;
mounted by hand without any problems.

From the side of warm rooms, wool insulation must be thoroughly protected by a vapor barrier layer, because their permeability to water vapor is high.

Having dealt with the insulation, you need to find out the details of the valley device. All flanges are laid from below with a layer of insulation, and screws will be needed to hold the cut sheets. No less significant than the valley is the passage through the roof of metal tiles of steel pipes and chimneys. If the chimney goes through an insulated roof, it will be necessary to lay a strictly defined number of layers of insulation, as well as roof insulation, and create a ceiling crate.

Qualified professionals solve this problem by constructing a special box that surrounds the outlet of the pipe to the top. The box itself must be covered from direct contact with the chimney. To isolate them from each other, mineral wool based on basalt or fiberglass is used. The geometric shape of this node is determined by the type of materials used. Most pipes are rectangular, round or square. From metal and cement, they mainly make structures in the form of a circle.

It is forbidden to bring the pipe out through the valley, because then it will not be possible to reliably ensure the tightness of their connection.

Any chimney pipes must be equipped with protective umbrellas.

When forming an external apron, waterproofing materials that are resistant to high temperatures are used. Ceiling openings around a steel chimney will need to be closed with a heat-insulating barrier or box, this requirement is relevant not only for wooden roofs. Instead of fluff, vermiculite or expanded clay is sometimes used to protect the main body of material from overheating. But the traditional way using basalt wool is more practical and safer.

When removing any chimneys through insulated roofs, auxiliary transverse beams are placed. When leading the pipe into an already created roof, the joints are treated with sealant or covered with adhesive tape. To collect and drain condensate, a drainage gutter is useful. It is not necessary to buy it, such a thing can be done with your own hands. Round chimneys are fastened with steel brackets, while gaps are always provided for the thermal expansion of the structure.

Regardless of whether the roof is equipped with a pipe or not, it is important to correctly calculate its slope. Not only the consumption of metal tiles depends on this, but also the practicality of using the roof, its properties. The slope changes - and immediately the susceptibility of the house to precipitation and wind becomes different, and the service life of the structure also changes. You can calculate the required slope in size if you use a formula like X \u003d H / (1 / 2L). The height here is the interval between the ceiling and the ridge, that is, the growth of the rafters, and the length means the width of the house.

To recalculate the roof slope as a percentage, it remains only to multiply the result by 100. Elementary trigonometry (arc tangent) will help to convert the calculated figure into degrees. According to this scheme, it is possible to find out the necessary parameters for roofs with one slope, but then it is necessary to take into account the entire length of the span. When the slopes are unequal, the distance is measured from the projection of the ridge onto the floor, and the angles are determined for each plane separately.

If the device is very complex, it has a lot of drops and relief details, a correction is introduced for horizontal projections.

The smallest (11 degrees) slope can only be used in an ideal situation, when the effect of snow and rain is obviously excluded. The level of wind load transmitted to the lower parts of the house will be small, but the snow and ice will not go down on their own. Judging by the recommendations of most manufacturers of metal tiles, the normal operation of the roof in winter conditions is guaranteed only with a slope of at least 14 degrees.

It is not recommended to overestimate the parameters calculated or indicated in the accompanying materials, because this will lead to an increase in material costs, an increase in the windage of the roof being created, and difficulties with drainage.

But the most flat roof has its drawbacks.

After all, a small slope does not allow water to seep through the joints between the sheets and the attachment points, so additional measures will need to be taken.

In winter, there will be more problems with cleaning the roof from snow.– if this is not done or not done enough, it may fail. At small angles of inclination, the crate becomes heavier, it will be more difficult to attach parts to it. And one more drawback - it will not work to make an attic or attic of a large area.

If we consider the gabled roofs, then other difficulties are revealed. So, at an angle of 45 degrees, the snow mass will slide down by itself. But a heavy metal tile can repeat the same maneuver and you will have to strengthen the fastening, attach each element to the crate as carefully as possible. The extremes converge - both with insufficient and with excessive steepness, you will need to lay more sheets. Therefore, angles of 11 and 70 degrees are more theoretically possible than realizable in practice.

For a shed roof, the most practical value is a corridor from 20 to 30 degrees, and for a gable roof, the second figure can reach 45 degrees.

With the outer contour and shape selected, it's time to deal with the knots of the rafters. As a Mauerlat, a square-shaped coniferous timber is usually taken, its side is 10 or 15 cm. The cross section of the bed should be exactly the same, this part is placed at right angles to the bearing walls. A triangular roof structure is assembled from the rafter legs, which takes the brunt of the weather, so special attention should be paid to its creation. Additionally, racks are prepared that are directed along the vertical of the structure, due to which the compression from the ridge diverges evenly along the load-bearing walls.

The length of the ribs at the racks is determined not according to standard standards, but by performing special calculations.

In addition to them, puffs are equipped - these are the horizontal parts of the rafter triangles that prevent the legs from moving arbitrarily under various loads. But puffs are used only when creating hanging rafters, and if they have a solid support, there is no need for this element at all. The redistribution of bending loads from the ridge nodes is carried out by struts. As for the crate, it is made of wooden boards, timber, placed at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the legs of the rafters, and enhances the overall rigidity of the roof.

In addition to these elements, you will need to do:

skate (the correct joint between the slopes);
overhang - a detail that goes beyond the contour of the bearing walls by 40 cm and prevents moisture from penetrating their surface;
fillies - replace the overhang if the ends of the rafters do not allow it to be done.

As for the choice of the number of slopes, it should be done not only for aesthetic reasons.

So, shed roofs are used only where there will be no attics - on small houses, over porches and outbuildings, over utility buildings.

Hipped doors differ from ordinary gable ones in that the pediments seem to be cut off at an angle to the full height. The half-hipped roof is similar to a hip roof, equipped with the same four slopes in the form of a triangle, but the pediments are only partially trimmed. If the main part of the building is round, the roof is made in the form of a dome, but all these options, as well as conical, double-gable, and so on, are much less common than gable and shed roofs.

Calculations

When looking at a roof made of metal, it is found that it is formed by rows and waves (that is, lines directed perpendicular to the plane of the slope). The gap from one row to the next among roofers is called the step of the wave. When the pitch on a tile sheet is 350 mm and six waves, it is called a module. Typical offers on the Russian market include from 1 to 10 modules. You can choose individual sizes, but then the total cost will be much higher.

It is important to remember that for technical reasons, the sheet cannot be shorter than 45 and longer than 700 cm, and all waves and joints necessarily form a monolithic ensemble along the slope.

Having calculated the required number of modules, it is easy to determine how much material will be spent on the roof of one roof. In addition to the base material, you will also need steel strips (each 200 cm long) and steel sheets 200x125 cm, painted in exactly the same way as the tiles. The minimum tilt angle is 11 degrees and the maximum is 70 degrees. Most often, the supplied strips are designed for roofs with a slope of 30 degrees. If this value differs, they are adjusted according to individual requirements defined in the scheme.

Installation methods

Choosing the right type of roof and carefully calculating its parameters is only half the solution. It is important to find out how best to lay the metal tile. This is a reliable material, but if a mistake is made during installation, after a few months all the work will need to be redone again. There are two time-tested installation options: one row and several rows at the same time. Regardless of the path chosen, 2,3 or 4 sheets are assembled into a block, attaching to each other with short self-tapping screws.

Then they are attached to the crate, trying to get as high as possible. Then it will be possible to rotate the block around the central screws, aligning the stacking of sheets for their optimal exposure. If single row mounting is selected, the very first sheet becomes the guide for the entire strip. It is aligned along the cornices and ends of the slopes, and for greater convenience it is attached to a self-tapping screw at the ridge. The second sheet must be placed on the left overlapping the first.

Then these did connect with each other with a screw: it is introduced over the wave under all transverse folds. This method allows you to lay out blocks from a pair or two pairs of sheets. For your information: the sheet that ends each strip is not attached to the base until the next package of metal tiles is leveled. Installation in several rows is significantly different - they work from right to left, but they still level the first sheet, focusing on the cornices and ends. The second fragment of the metal tile should overlap the first, and they are attached to a common self-tapping screw at the ridge in the middle of the sheet.

The joint between the parts of the coating is clamped with screws that are inserted into the top of the wave. The third sheet of the row is placed to the left of the first. To make it easier and more convenient to cover the roof, it is worth starting from the side where there are no bevels and cuts, other details of the roof that would require cutting the sheet. They lay the material, moving towards the oblique skates or towards the valley separating the slopes. The fourth sheet is superimposed on the third and they are connected with short self-tapping screws, but not screwed to the crate (after all, you will still need to adjust the geometry of the laid out block).

Detailed operation guide

Having briefly familiarized yourself with the device of metal roofing and its installation, it's time to find out how all the work should be done in stages. The design of the roofing cake differs depending on whether the roof is insulated or cold.

Rough finish

Apart from the facing layer itself, they are sequentially placed above the warm attic (from top to bottom):

crate;
counter-lattice;
a water-retaining membrane;
a layer of fire-resistant insulation;
vapor barrier;
substrate.

For cold attics, the device is simpler - there is no need for insulation and restricting the movement of steam.

The crate is made from a 5x5 cm timber, an alternative to it are 3.2x10 cm boards. In both versions, the structures are attached to the counter-lattice beam held by the rafters. Thanks to the counter-lattice, not only the mechanical connection of the cake parts is ensured, but also a ventilated space is formed inside it. Therefore, the risk of encountering the accumulation of condensate is reduced.

It is impractical to make a monolithic wood flooring under a metal tile, therefore parts of the crate are mounted at intervals of 35-40 cm. The exact value is determined by the wave pitch. Where the grooves and cornices are located, a boardwalk 14-15 cm wide is fastened. Beforehand, any piece of wood is supposed to be impregnated with antiseptics and fire protection means. Next comes the turn of the waterproofing membrane or film, which must pass steam, not be destroyed by ultraviolet radiation and serve for a long time.

Waterproofing is mounted exclusively in dry weather. If it is raining, it is better to postpone this matter until a more convenient moment.

The rolls are rolled out over each part of the roof, overlapped, moving across the rafters. Laying begins at the eaves, and ends on the ridge. The bottom sheets of waterproofing are brought to the front boards of the cornices. The exact overlap of the film is determined by the angle of the slope, but its minimum value is at least 70 mm. To make the joints tighter, adhesive tape and dispersion materials are used.

A common mistake is to use combustible heaters, relying on special fire retardant impregnations.

Only materials that are not flammable on their own without further treatment should be used. The thickness of the insulation is chosen by conducting a special heat engineering calculation according to the conditions of certain places, but even in the warmest regions of the Russian Federation it is from 15 cm. It is recommended to give preference to plate heaters from leading manufacturers, they are the most reliable and safe.

The slabs are laid inside the rafters in a spacer, they are fixed without additional fasteners, because such structures are elastic. The choice of vapor barrier is also responsible, and the main attention is paid to the density and level of permeability to water vapor. The inner lining is made of boards or plasterboard, this work is started after the installation of other layers is completed.

The load from the roof itself, accumulating snow and moving people is at least 200 kg per 1 sq. m. This circumstance must be taken into account when designing and constructing rafters.

Both cold and warm roofs made of metal are equipped with soundproofing material - it is placed on the crate or in a continuous layer, or in places where the front cover will be fixed.

If the roof slope is from 14 to 20 degrees, the slats can be installed relatively rarely. And when a thin steel profiled sheet is placed on top, an inextricable crate of edged boards is prepared. Their minimum thickness is 3.2 cm, and the installation step is reduced to 1 cm. It is required to nail the rails for the counter-lattice to the rafter legs using galvanized nails. They are driven in every 30 cm. When preparing waterproofing, it is necessary to use membranes that effectively suppress the occurrence of condensate, are fire-safe and resistant to ultraviolet rays.

Construction staplers are used to attach water-resistant membranes to the legs of the rafters. Layers of battens and counter battens are placed above the waterproofing. From fibrous thermal insulation materials to the waterproofing layer, a gap should be left filled only with air. To form it, nails are driven into the edge of the rafters 1 cm from the waterproofing and the mesh is stretched, which is best done from a cord. A concrete screed can help the walls withstand the mass of the roof and additional loads (wind, snow, ice). When the upper floor is large, it is made along all load-bearing walls, not limited to external planes.

Additional reinforcement of the structures is achieved by concrete columns that are removed from the foundation, as well as by props for beams that hold the rafters.

The planes of the slopes are brought out perfectly evenly, and if defects are found in them, they should be cut off with a planer. Heavily damaged items should be replaced. When working with rafters, it is required after each manipulation (especially when the slope diagonal is displayed) to check their geometry with a building level. Noticing the bias, it is removed with the help of additional elements.

It happens that the slope (between the ridge beam and the cornice) is more than 6 m. In such cases, the sheets are divided into fragments and they are overlapped. The previous coating from the rafters is completely removed, and after dismantling, the rafters themselves and the crate are checked very carefully so that everything is intact.

In preparation for any roofing work and in the process of laying out the metal tiles, it is impossible to clad the facade, close the gable and perform other work.

Such "saving time" is irrational and only results in additional losses.

The gap between the boards of the lathing should be made in accordance with the instructions of the manufacturers, but not less than 0.6 and not more than 0.9 m. Before work, carefully evaluate the coincidence between the boards or timber, because blocks that differ in size and configuration can damage the roofing . Stuffing the cornice, you should put the extreme strip of boards so that it does not protrude beyond it. Parts thinner than 150 mm cannot be used to guarantee the strength of the rafters and compensate for uneven planes. The membrane film placed on top of the crate must not be attached with nails or self-tapping screws; only adhesive tape is used.

Having finished with the cornice strips, they are engaged in a drain. It is best to buy a custom system from a metal tile supplier to avoid compatibility issues. The first step in installation is to attach the brackets that hold the gutters. Immediately they are engaged in the installation of ventilation grilles on the cornices. Once this is done, the preparatory stage of work can be safely considered completed.

Laying the final material

The technology of fastening metal tiles is much simpler than that of any preparatory work. But it also has its own important subtleties, nuances. Work from the lower corners of each slope. If during the laying process it becomes necessary to adjust the sheets, they are simply cut to the desired size.

The joint between the sheets should be opposite to the line along which the water will flow. If done otherwise, the rain streams will pour inward.

The first row of the coating is laid, carefully watching the ledges - it should be displayed 4 cm further than the eaves. There is no need to accurately measure this distance; an error of a few millimeters will not worsen anything. Subsequent sheets are placed easier and faster, but you will have to concentrate again when it comes to the fragments placed on the skate. It must be remembered that the installation of metal tiles, and the preparatory work is carried out at a height, and this imposes special requirements on the organization of work.

Be sure to use special belts and safety ropes. Before climbing to the roof put on shoes with embossed rubber soles.

at dusk and at night (even with good electric lighting);
during rain and until the surface is dry;
in the fog;
when the wind is stronger than 15 m / s (even if these are separate gusts).

You need to lift up exactly as much material and tools as you need to work in the next 1-2 hours.

It is better to spend more time climbing and descending than to run into problems due to cluttering up the space. Of course, you should never work on an icy roof. Garbage, defective and damaged parts of the material, dismantled structures, packaging and everything else descend from the roof only by stairs. It is unacceptable to drop them down.

The working tool should be placed where it will not fall. It is very important to ensure that the tools themselves and the extended wires (cables) do not interfere with anyone and do not end up under their feet. Any mechanisms, especially electrical ones, are checked in advance on the ground, and not only before the start of work in general, but also at the beginning of each working day. The integrity and serviceability of the insulation are also carefully checked. Before lifting large sheets up, you need to make sure that there is no strong wind, otherwise they may be damaged.

All work with metal tiles, even unpacking, should be carried out in gloves and overalls, because the edges of any sheet of metal tiles are extremely sharp, and sometimes jagged.

Any instruction for professional builders invariably reminds that this material is slippery., and you should walk on it very carefully, only with a safety belt. If the metal tile is lifted using special mechanisms, it is recommended to check their serviceability before each start. You can not walk and stand under the place of rise and in a certain radius from it (the stronger the wind is within the permissible range, the greater this radius). When unloading packages, they are always lifted, but not pulled out of the stack.

A typical technological map requires not to lift a long shaped sheet by the edges, they are supposed to be held only from the sides. If contaminants are found on the metal tile, they must be removed with household detergents, moreover, as sparingly as possible. Strong mixtures can damage the coating. It is not always possible to use all delivered sheets in one day, so you need to know how they are stored. It is impossible to leave the metal tile in the factory tight packaging, it is folded on inclined bars, as this allows raindrops to leave and evaporate.

Metal tiles covered with plastic should be stored (both in packaging and without it) for a maximum of 14 days. If you want to leave it for a longer time, store the material in the same way as the galvanized type.

Step-by-step instructions for laying sheets of material implies preliminary preparation:

additional support boards;
bars for a through output (fire or inspection hatch);
roof stairs;
wall stairs, partially led to the roof;
snow blowers;
roof bridges.

It is recommended to cut metal tiles to the required size with metal saws and scissors, hand-held electric saws with hard alloy teeth. A grinder with abrasive discs is not only harmful when cutting material, it cannot be used closer than 10 m from the sheet, since flying sparks can damage the tiles. If you are going to fix the coating, its surface must be freed from chips, fasteners and rivets. The mounted metal tile is painted with paints suitable for metal at the cornices themselves. The same paints are applied to the edges of the cuts and to all scratches that accidentally appear.

A feature of sheets of the 1/1025 format is that some of them are equipped with an auxiliary transverse bend, which simplifies installation and blocks the spread of the material. On roofs of complex configuration, such a coating can only be laid after careful measurements, while the required length of the sheets should be calculated by professionals.

When working on a hipped roof, cut blocks cannot be placed on opposite slopes, since they have a transverse pattern.

If you have to step on the laid sheets of metal tiles, it is advisable to walk in places where the crate is placed.

It is impossible to properly cover the roof with this material, if you do not check whether the transverse folds are properly joined after the installation of each block.

0.48x5;
0.48x6.5;
0.48x8 cm.

A special role belongs to screws with dimensions of 4.8x28 mm. They are necessary to attach the coating in the lower parts of the waves, at the cornices, in overlaps. They are also recommended to fix the straps. Not all fasteners of a certain size are suitable for the job, in this case it is recommended to use screws with a sealing layer of EPDM rubber. For your information: it is categorically wrong to use nails, because they are less reliable than screws.

A big mistake is to tighten the fasteners to the stop - in this case, the surface may become dented.

Driving screws by hand is impractical and tedious. An electric drill helps to simplify the work, which has the functions of smooth speed adjustment and can operate in reverse mode. Shaped sheets lead at an inclination of 1: 4, and trapezoidal sheets must be installed at an angle of 1: 7. Some manufacturers refuse responsibility if the profile is placed on a roof with a smaller slope. For a folded roof of the classical type, you need to make a slope of at least 1: 12.

Gable planks are attached from the sides to the gable boards, and at the top they are attached to the metal tile. The fasteners are placed at a distance of 80 cm from each other, the mutual overlap of the gable planks is 10 cm. Before installing the ridge shaped strip, it is supposed to fix the end caps with rivets. The overlap is 13 cm, for smooth structures - 3 cm less. From two to five ridge bars are connected into a single block with screws and placed along the ridge.

Next, the joints between the bar and the profile sheet are sealed. The ridge elements themselves are pierced with screws through the seals to the sheets along the top of the waves (they go through one wave). The skate adjacent to the slope is best done like this: the end is cut off under the slope and mounted tightly under the sheet.

To seal shaped ridge elements, it is recommended to take a self-adhesive connection of the “Top-Roll” type.

There is nothing complicated in all these works. You just need to be careful and careful.

Even with a complete understanding of the standard work technology, you can make serious mistakes or miss an opportunity to reduce costs and simplify work.

According to experts, high-quality ventilation of the space under a metal roof meets three requirements:

a gap from waterproofing to the metal itself is provided;
air flows freely through the eaves;
nothing prevents him from passing through the area under the ridge.

Only by fulfilling these conditions, it is possible to guarantee stable insulation of the attic or attic.

Before work, check the timber and boards. It should not show signs of mechanical damage or insect attack.

Do not take material with deep cracks or poorly dried wood. All nails must be made from stainless steel grades. The required length is determined by doubling the thickness of the crate.

If you have to join the boards together, you need to bring the border to the rafters whenever possible.

Adjacent horizontal rows are set so that the joints are mutually offset. Self-tapping screws, with which sheets of metal tiles are screwed, are placed at least 6-8 pieces per 1 sq. m, because the coating is heavy and it must be thoroughly pressed against the support. When making a tiled roof for a warm attic, it is advisable to install the windows of the living room on the crate held by the rafters. If the windows are very large, it is better to attach them directly to the rafters.

Waterproofing membranes with increased diffusion are placed on the insulation without gaps, and an anti-condensate film should be placed at intervals. Between two adjacent rafters, the film can sag a maximum of 20 mm (with a maximum distance of 120 cm). If the crate is made of wood, you need to put an anti-condensation film under the counter-crate. This will optimize ventilation from the coating sheet to the film. When a gutter is created, the installation of the eaves is preceded by the placement of the gutter holders. And the cornice itself should end at the level of a third of the gutter coming from the wall.

To connect the eaves to the crate is supposed to be self-drilling screws with a flat top. You need to join two cornices with a run of 5-10 cm. You can hem the cornice overhangs of the roof itself with a profiled sheet, metal siding or facade panels.

It is strictly forbidden to fix the metal tile in the upper deflections of the waves, as well as to use a hammer to fix the self-tapping screws.

The lower valley is fastened to the clamps, and at least 10 cm should remain from the end of the sheet to the lowest point of the valley.

The upper valley is mounted after the layout of the metal tile is completed. To do this, use roofing screws that stick into the tops of the waves in increments of 20 ... 30 cm. In this case, it is unacceptable to violate the lower valley. When attaching the gables, they try to cover the upper deflections of the waves. The ridge and metal tiles are separated with polyurethane foam, and the ends of the ridge element must be covered with a decorative plug. Joints must be treated with sealants.

Wall profiles are necessarily used where the roof fits not only to the walls, but also to various pipes and dormer windows.

They are applied to the metal tile and attached to problematic elements. At the level of the cornice, after the second strip of the crate, various fences are mounted. Their type and specific execution are determined by the slope of the roof and the type of tile. For connection, it is recommended to use self-drilling bolts with an external zinc layer (5.5x25 mm for metal and 5.5x60 for wood).

It is unacceptable to fasten the fence to only one metal tile.

Bolts are used to tie the enclosing structures together. Snow-retaining elements are placed in the deflection of the wave, they are fixed through the tiles and the sealing gasket to the crate itself. In the places provided for this, crate profiles are made in advance with a step of 12 cm (it is counted along the axes of the profiles).

Snow guards should be mounted above the fence, and if the slope is longer than 10 m, it is advisable to use their pairs.

You can watch the installation process of metal tiles in the video below.

Recently, metal tiles have been increasingly used for arranging the roofing part. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If desired, you can independently perform the installation of metal tiles. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Works on laying fragments of roofing

The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special coating based on polymers. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

Enumeration of merits

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

aesthetic appeal;
weather resistance;
affordable cost;
lightness of the main elements.

Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their color range can vary over a fairly wide range.

A few shortcomings

Since the sheets have a small thickness with sufficiently large dimensions, there is still a risk of damage to them during careless installation. Subject to all the rules, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect during heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this minus is completely eliminated.

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Assembly tools

In advance, you need to prepare a set of tools and accessories for the work:

Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, as high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

In the step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles, the main elements used in conjunction with sheets should be mentioned. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

It is suggested to take a look at the list of basic parts:

a skate is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
the end plank is necessary to decorate the edges from the side of the gable overhangs;
the valley is installed at the places where the slopes coincide;
the eaves plank is attached from the side of the gutters;
the junction bar is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
a snow retaining element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Installation instructions for metal tiles: step-by-step execution of work

Loading and unloading of products can be carried out manually, but a certain number of people must be involved in the course of work. Usually 1 person is required per 1.5-2 linear meters of sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation will be laid between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is fastened with brackets to the bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across the rafter legs with an overlap of at least 15 cm along all slopes.

Bars 50x50 mm are nailed directly along the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixing, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Proper installation of the crate under the metal tile

As a crate, a cut board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide is usually used, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to the bars 50x50 mm using nails with a length of at least 70 mm. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

At the installation site of the ridge element, it is recommended to install two strips close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tile. In the same way, you should do in the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the crate should be higher than the rest by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted up to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile cornice strips are installed. An additional ventilation tape must be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. At the junction horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Stroking a brick chimney implies the withdrawal of a waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A strobe is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is diverted to a valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with a 50 mm outlet for the crate. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be observed:

the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the crate;
fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing end joints are mounted in the direction from the cornice overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed in the upper crest of every second wave. When building up the elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. A self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements for holding snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of large snow scraping, two rows of metal profiles can be installed. Pass-through type snow guards are the best solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the crate itself through. The distance between fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.